IILWAUKIE, 


wis. 


KELEY 

IARY 

aSlTY  OF 
IFORNIA 


•<v. 


TKAYELS 


IN 


EUROPE,   EGYPT,   ARABIA   PETR^A, 
PALESTINE   AND  SYRIA. 


KEV.   EUGENE    VETROMILE,    D.D., 

APOSTOLIC  MISSIONARY, 

CORRESPONDING     MEMBER    OP    THE    MAINE    HISTORICAL    SOCIETY;     MEMBER    OF    THE 

NEW-ENGLAND  HISTORIC-GENEALOGICAL  SOCIETY  ;   OF  THE  NUMISMATIC 

ANTIQUARIAN  SOCIETY  OF  PHILADELPHIA,  PA.  ;    OF 

THE  YORK  INSTITUTE,  ETC.,  ETC. 


IN   TWO    VOLUMES. 
VOL.  I. 


NEW  YOEK: 
D.  &  J.   SADLIER  &   CO.,  31    BARCLAY    STREET. 

MONTREAL  :— COR.  NOTRE  DAME  &  ST.  FRANCIS  XAVJER  STS. 


LOAN  STACK 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871, 

BY  D.  &  J.  SADLIER  &  COMPANY, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


TD97S 
\jH-5 


TO 
HIS  MOST  ILLUSTRIOUS  AND  MOST  REVEREND  EMINENCE,  THE  LORD 

ALEXANDER   BARNABO, 

CARDINAL     OF    THE     ORDER  .  OF    PRIESTS     OF     THE     SACRED     COLLEGE, 

PKEFECT    OF    THE    CONGREGATION 

DE 

J^OPAGANDA    j^IDE, 

WHICH   IS 

SO  SUCCESSFULLY  EXTENDED    BY  HIS  EMINENT  VIRTUES  INTO  THE 
MOST  DISTANT  REGIONS  OF  THE  EARTH, 

Cfois  Book, 

AS  A  TOKEN  OF  FRIENDSHIP  AND  ESTEEM, 

is 
MOST  RESPECTFULLY  INSCRIBED 

BY 

ONE  OF  HIS  MISSIONARIES, 

THE  AUTHOR. 


LOAN  STACK 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871, 

BY  D.  &  J.  SADLIER  &  COMPANY, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


\JH-S 


TO 

HIS  MOST  ILLUSTRIOUS  AND  MOST  REVEREND  EMINENCE,  THE  LORD 

ALEXANDER   BARNABO, 

CARDINAL     OF    THE     ORDER  .  OF    PRIESTS     OF     THE     SACRED     COLLEGE, 

PKEFECT    OF    THE    CONGREGATION 

DE 

P  f\O  PA  G  AND  A    -FlDE, 
WHICH  is 

SO  SUCCESSFULLY  EXTENDED    BY  HIS  EMINENT  VIRTUES  INTO  THE 
MOST  DISTANT  REGIONS  OF  THE  EARTH, 


AS  A  TOKEN  OF  FRIENDSHIP  AND  ESTEEM, 

is 
MOST  RESPECTFULLY  INSCRIBED 

BY 

ONE  OF  HIS  MISSIONARIES, 

THE  AUTHOK. 


INDEX   TO  VOL.   I. 


CHAPTER  I. 

CROSSING  THE    OCEAN. 

Departure  from  Maine,  17 ;  Canada,  18 ;  Quebec,  18 ;  Hon.  D'Arcy 
McGee,  19 ;  Canadians,  19 ;  St.  Lawrence,  22 :  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence, 23 ;  Anticosti,  27  ;  Steamer  North  American  aground,  27 ; 
Newfoundland,  29  ;  Labrador,  29  ;  Icebergs,  29  ;  Straits  of  Belle 
Isle,  31 ;  Belle  Isle,  31 ;  Ocean,  32  ;  Sighting  the  Coast  of  Ireland, 
32 ;  Lough  Foyle,  34  ;  Tender  to  Londonderry,  34  ;  Giant's  Cause- 
way, 35 ;  Isle  of  Man,  36  ;  Landing  at  Liverpool,  37. 

CHAPTER  IL 

ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND. 

Liverpool,  38  ;  The  Great  Eastern,  39  ;  Railways  in  England,  40 ;  Bol- 
ton,  41 ;  Canon  Carter,  43  ;  Manchester,  44  ;  York,  45  ;  Cathedral, 
46  ;  Scotland,  48  ;  Berwick,  48  ;  Edinburgh,  49  ;  Loss  of  my  bag- 
gage, 49;  Edinburgh  Castle,  50;  Calton  Hill,  51 ;  Palace  and  Ab- 
bey of  Holyrood,  51 ;  Mary  Stewart,  52  ;  Rizzio,  53 ;  John  Knoz, 
54 ;  Execution  of  Mary,  55  ;  Sir  Walter  Scott,  56  ;  Glasgow,  57 ; 
The  Venerable  Bishop  of  Glasgow,  57 ;  The  Clyde,  58  ;  Ireland, 
59 ;  Belfast,  59  ;  Downpatrick,  63 ;  St.  Patrick's  Grave,  63 ;  Ar- 
magh, 64;  Dublin,  66;  Gal  way,  67;  Killarney,  67;  Cork,  68; 
England  again,  69  ;  Wales,  70 ;  Bristol,  71 ;  London,  72 ;  St. 
Paul's,  74  ;  Westminster,  77  ;  Tower  of  London,  79. 

CHAPTER  ILL 

FRANCE. 

Departure  from  England,  82;  Steamer  between  New  Haven  and 
Dieppe,  82 ;  France,  82  ;  Dieppe,  83  ;  Normandy,  84  ;  Rouen,  85 ; 

(5) 


0  INDEX   TO   VOL.    I. 

Nantes,  86  ;  Paris,  86  ;  Church  of  St.  Sulpice,  88 ;  Application  to 
the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Faith  to  assist  the  Indian 
Missions  of  the  Etchemin  Tribes,  89  ;  Father  Nycolin,  93  ;  The 
Exhibition,  97  ;  Notre  Dame,  100  ;  The  Louvre  and  Tuileries,  101 ; 
Hotel  des  Invalides,  103 ;  La  Madeleine,  104 

CHAPTEE  IV. 

BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PRUSSIA. 

Departure  from  France,  106  ;  Compiegne,  106  ;  Cambray,  106  ;  Bel- 
gium, 107 ;  Brussels,  108 ;  Cathedral,  109  ;  Antwerp,  110 ;  Cathe- 
dral, 110  ;  Holland,  111 ;  Dutch  Custom  House,  111  ;  The  Scheldt, 
115;  Dutch  manners,  115;  Rotterdam,  118;  The  Hague,  119  ; 
Leyden,  120;  Haarlem,  121;  Amsterdam,  121;  Utrecht,  123; 
Prussia,  123 ;  Berg  and  Cleves,  123  ;  Dusseldorf,  124 ;  Cologne, 
125  ;  Cathedral,  125 ;  St.  Ursula  and  Companions,  126. 

CHAPTEE  V. 

ASCENT   OF   THE    RHINE. 

Ascent  of  the  Rhine,  129  ;  The  Siebengebirge,  129  ;  Bonn,  130  ;  The 
Drachenfels,  131 ;  The  Weissenthurm,  132  ;  Coblentz,  133  ;  Ger- 
many, 133  ;  Nassau,  134  ;  Wiesbaden,  134  ;  St.  Goarhausen,  135  ; 
Altar  of  Bacchus,  136  ;  Bishop  Hatto,  137  ;  An  American  family, 
137  ;  Mayence,  138  ;  Frankfort,  139  ;  (Ecumenical  Council  rejected 
by  the  Pope,  140  ;  Worms,  141 ;  Mannheim,  141 ;  Baden,  142  ;  Hei- 
delberg, 142  ;  Carlsruhe,  143  ;  Baden-Baden,  143  ;  Strasbourg  Ca- 
thedral, 143  ;  Astronomical  Clock,  145. 

CHAPTEE  VI. 

SWITZERLAND. 

Departure  for  Switzerland,  148  ;  Bale,  149 ;  Erasmus,  149  ;  (Ecumeni- 
cal Council  of  Bale  ending  in  a  Conciliabulum,  150 ;  Insolence  of 
those  Bishops,  150 ;  Their  Acts  rejected  by  the  Pope,  151 ;  Su- 
premacy of  the  Pope,  151 ;  Eugene  IV.  orders  the  Council  to  be 
transferred  to  Ferrara,  155  ;  Constance,  156  ;  (Ecumenical  Coun- 
cil of  Constance  rejected  by  the  Pope,  except  a  few  Sessions,  157 ; 
Shaffhausen,  157  ;  Berne,  157  ;  Freiburg,  158  ;  The  Organ,  158  ; 
Lausanne,  161 ;  Lake  Leman,  161 ;  Geneva,  162 ;  Mont  Blanc,  163  ; 
Cathedral,  165  ;  Departure  for  Ouchy,  166  ;  Martigny,  167  ;  As- 
cent of  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  171 ;  Hospice,  173 ;  Dogs,  180. 


INDEX   TO   VOL.    I.  .  7 

CHAPTER   VII. 

THE  ALPS. 

Descent  from  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  184 ;  Sion,  184 ;  Valley  of  the 
Rhone,  185  ;  Mont  Rosa,  185  ;  Ascent  of  the  Alps  by  the  Simplon, 
186  ;  Hospice  at  the  Simplon  Pass,  188 ;  Descent  from,  the  Simp- 
lon,  189  ;  Italian  frontier,  189  ;  Italy,  190  ;  Domo  D'Ossola,  190  ; 
Procession,  190 ;  Lago  Maggiore,  191;  Borromean  Islands,  193  ; 
St.  Charles  Borromeo,  195  ;  Alessandria,  196  ;  Genoa,  196  ;  Ney  ve, 
196  ;  A  Leaf  from  the  Note-Book  of  a  Missionary,  198. 

CHAPTEE  Vm. 

ITALY. 

Turin,  207  ;  Cathedral,  208 ;  Sanctuary  of  La  Superga,  209  ;  Novara, 
209  ;  Milan,  210  ;  Cathedral,  211 ;  Body  of  St.  Charles  Borromeo, 
212 ;  St.  Ambrose  and  his  Church,  212 ;  (Ecumenical  Council  re- 
jected by  the  Pope,  213  ;  Magenta,  214 ;  Piacenza,  215  ;  Parma, 
215;  Bologna,  216;  Pistoja,  217;  Lucca,  218;  Pisa,  219  ;  Cathe- 
dral, 219  ;  Galileo,  220  ;  Baptistery,  221 ;  Campo  Santo,  221 ;  Lean- 
ing Tower,  221 ;  (Ecumenical  Council  rejected  by  the  Pope,  223; 
Leghorn,  224 ;  Protestant  Meeting-House  in  Leghorn,  224. 

CHAPTEE  IX. 

FLORENCE   AND   NAPLES. 

Arrival  at  Florence,  226 ;  Duomo,  227 ;  Bell-Tower,  227  ;  Pitti  Palace, 
etc.,  229  ;  Departure  for  Rome,  229 ;  Foligno,  230 ;  Narni,  230 ; 
Cholera  in  Rome,  230 ;  Departure  for  Naples,  231 ;  Ceprano,  231  ; 
Capua,  231 ;  Caserta,  232 ;  Naples,  232  ;  Arrival  at  Giugliano,  232  ; 
Meeting  with  my  Uncle,  D.  Luigi  Vetromile,  233  ;  Giugliano,  234 ; 
Naples  again,  235  ;  Departure,  235 ;  Benevento,  237  ;  Hesperia, 
238. 

CHAPTEE  X. 

APULIA. 

Crossing  the  Apennines,  239 ;  Ariano,  240 ;  Bovino,  240 ,  Foggia,  241  ; 
Apulia  or  Japygia,  241 ;  Daunus  and  Dauni,  241 ;  Mount  Garganus, 
242;  St.  Michael,  Archangel,  243;  Barese  or  Paucetians,  243  ; 
Canne,  243  ;  Venosa,  native  country  of  Horace,  244 ;  Basilica ta 
or  Lucania,  244  ;  Bari,  245  ;  Sanctuary  and  Body  of  St.  Nicholas, 
245 ;  Council  of  Bari,  245  ;  Description  of  the  People  of  this  part 


8  INDEX   TO   VOL.    I. 

of  Apulia,  by  Fenelon,  349  ;  Leccese  or  Messapia,  247  ;  Brindisi, 
248  ;  Meeting  with  my  Brother,  251  ;  Lecce,  252  ;  Salentum,  252  ; 
Departure  for  Gallipolis,  253  ;  Meeting  with  my  other  Brother, 
etc.,  253  ;  Reception  at  Gallipolis,  254  ;  The  City,  256  ;  Phalantus, 
257  ;  Customs  of  the  People,  259  ;  Departure,  266  ;  Failure  to 
create  a  sensation  to  having  Rome  for  the  Capital,  267  ;  The 
Apennines  again,  269  ;  Monteforte,  269  ;  Custom  House  in  Naples, 
270  ;  Naples  again,  and  meeting  with  my  Uncle,  272. 

CHAPTER  XL 

NAPLES. 

Naples,  274  ;  Manners  of  the  Neapolitans,  277  ;  Lazzaroni,  279  ;  St. 
Francis  de  Paula,  280  ;  The  Gesu,  280  ;  St.  Chiara,  281  ;  Miracle 
of  the  Liquefaction  of  the  Blood  of  St.  Januarius,  280  ;  Portici,  282  ; 
Pompeii,  283;  Salerno,  285;  Peestum,  286  ;  La  Cava,  287;  Hercu- 
laneum,  287  ;  Resina,  289  ;  Royal  Palace  at  Naples,  290  ;  Cata- 
combs, 290  ;  Cathedral,  291  ;  Campo  Santo,  291  ;  All  Souls'  Day, 
291  ;  Vesuvius,  294  ;  Sailing  for  Civita  Vecchia,  297  ;  Entrance  to 
Rome,  298. 

CHAPTER  XIL 

HOME—  RETURN  TO  NAPLES. 

Rome,  300  ;  St.  Peter's,  302  ;  Cardinal  Barnabo,  305  ;  Scala  Santa,  306  ; 
St.  John  Lateran,  306  ;  St.  Maria  Maggiore,  307  ;  Audience  with 
the  Pope,  307  ;  Pius  IX.,  308  ;  King  of  Naples,  309  ;  Rev.  Christian 
Kauder,  317  ;  Return  to  Naples,  319  ;  Pozzuoli,  319  ;  Amphithea- 
tre, 319  ;  Cumse,  320  ;  Acherusia,  321  ;  Averno,  322  ;  Grotto  of  the 
Sybil,  322  ;  Baths  of  Nero,  223  ;  Miseno,  323  ;  Baiae,  324  ;  Return 
to  Naples,  325. 


CHAPTER 

ITALY     AND  THE     ITALIANS. 

Manners  of  the  People,  329. 


PREFACE. 


THE  appearance  of  a  book  of  travels  in  the 
present  state  of  the  world,  in  which  the  most 
distant  parts  are  brought  comparatively  close 
together  by  the  application  of  steam  and  elec- 
tricity, and  continually  visited  by  numerous  trav- 
elers, is  somewhat  hazardous  ;  and  the  reflection 
that  this  subject  has  been  so  brilliantly  handled 
by  many  writers  of  eminence,  seems  to  call  for 
some  explanation  of  the  motives  by  which  I  was 
actuated  in  penning  these  pages. 

It  has  repeatedly  been  observed  that  the  Cath- 
olics of  this  country  are  fond  of  reading,  and  of 
becoming  acquainted  with  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  other  nations,  but  that  they  have  no  books 
of  travel  other  than  those  written  by  Protestant 
tourists,  who  frequently  misrepresent,  perhaps 
unintentionally,  the  real  customs  of  Catholic 
countries,  and  sneer  at  the  practices,  manners, 
religion,  etc.,  of  Catholic  nations.  Their  narra- 
tives entirely  suppress  or  barely  mention  the 
beauty,  progress,  civilization,  and  philanthropy 
which  the  Catholic  religion  develops,  and  the 
good  which  it  operates  throughout  the  world.  The 
preeminence  which  Catholic  nations  hold  over 
Protestant  and  heathen  countries  is  entirely  over- 

(13) 


14  PREFACE. 

looked  by  them  ;  and  they  even  fail  to  notice  that 
the  best  monuments  of  art  and  science,  now  exist- 
ing in  Protestant  lands,  owe  their  origin,  or  exist- 
ence, to  the  influence  of  the  Catholic  religion  in 
the  days  previous  to  the  apostacy  of  those  coun- 
tries from  that  faith. 

With  regard  to  visitors  to  the  East,  who  have 
been  of  late  very  numerous,  the  less  they  say 
concerning  the  sacred  places  of  the  Holy  Land, 
the  greater  service  they  will  render  to  the  cause 
of  knowledge  and  religion.  Tourists  to  the  East 
have  lately  assumed  a  certain  air  of  skepti- 
cism and  intelligent  contempt ;  they  know  and 
think  little  of  monuments  erected  by  the  piety 
and  zeal  of  Christians,  upon  those  holy  sites 
which  owe  their  celebrity  to  the  Mystery  of  the 
Incarnation  —  a  dogma  tacitly  withdrawn  from 
the  creed  of  modern  Protestantism.  They  speak 
of  the  Oriental  Schismatic  Rites  as  they  would 
of  so  many  different  Protestant  sects, — nay,  they 
have  even  asserted  that  the  Eastern  Schismatics 
admit  Protestants  to  their  communion,  and  ad- 
minister to  them  the  Blessed  Sacrament  of  the 
Holy  Eucharist. 

When  traveling  in  the  East,  I  made  a  special 
investigation  of  this  subject,  and  found  that  these 
tour.ists  had  fallen  into  a  great  error,  unavoidable, 
perhaps,  to  travelers  not  properly  acquainted  with 
Oriental  theology  and  the  ceremonies  of  the  East- 
ern ritual.  It  was  not  the  consecrated  bread 
which  was  given  or  offered  them,  but  simply 
blessed  bread.  According  to  some  Oriental  lit- 


PREFACE.  15 

• 

urgies,  a  number  of  small  loaves  of  bread  are 
blessed  by  the  officiating  priest  at  the  commence- 
ment of  Mass  ;  after  having  been  blessed,  one  or 
more  of  these  loaves,  according  to  the  number  of 
communicants,  if  there  be  any,  is  reserved  to  be 
consecrated  at  the  Mass  ;  the  rest  are  laid  aside 
in  some  part  of  the  Sanctuary,  away  from  the 
altar,  that  they  may  be  distributed  after  Mass  to 
all  present,  a  portion  being  kept  for  those  who 
may  come  during  the  week.  This  blessed  bread 
was  offered  to  me  also,  but  I,  of  course,  refused  it. 
The  consecrated  bread  is  given  only  to  the  clerk, 
and  to  those  who  are  strictly  communicants, 
immediately  after  the  communion  of  the  cele- 
brant. The  blessed  bread  is  distributed  after,  the 
Mass  by  the  same  celebrant,  but  he  is  first  dis- 
robed of  the  sacred  vestments  of  the  altar. 

Circumstances  beyond  my  control  compelled 
me,  upon  several  occasions,  to  alter  the  original 
plan  of  my  journey,  which  was  one  more  of  duty 
than  of  mere  recreation.  The  cholera  in  Europe, 
the  banditti  in  Southern  Italy,  the  lack  of  a  trusty 
companion  in  Egypt,  the  necessity  of  a  caravan 
in  Arabia,  my  illness  in  Jerusalem,  together  with 
the  limited  time  allowed  for  absence  from  my 
mission  among  the  Etchemin  Indians,  hindered 
me  from  visiting  several  localities  marked  down 
in  the  original  plan  of  my  route. 

In  the  Holy  Land  there  are  many  places  to 
which  Indulgences,  either  plenary  or  partial,  are 
attached,  and  they  are  gained  by  honoring  the 
places,  and  saying  there  one  "Pater"  and  an 


16  PREFACE. 

"Ave"    I  have  been  particular  to  notice  them 
in  my  travels. 

In  these  pages  will  be  found,  for  the  most  part, 
the  record  of  my  own  observations.  I  have  sim- 
ply and  candidly  expressed  the  impressions  and 
feelings  I  experienced  in  traveling  ;  but  in  my 
statistics,  and  in  speaking  of  the  Oriental  rites,  I 
have  made  use  also  of  the  authority  of  others, 
and  have  been  careful  to  balance  and  weigh  their 
testimony. 

It  would  be  tedious  to  enumerate  the  authors 
whose  works  I  have  consulted,  and  from  which  I 
have  derived  assistance;  once  for  all,  I  here 
make  my  acknowledgments  for  their  aid.  As  I 
have  had  occasion,  in  this  book,  to  treat  of  relig- 
ious matters,  and,  especially,  in  opposition  to  the 
Gallican  opinions,  which  I  hold  to  be  erroneous 
and  tainted  with  heresy,  I  submit  its  every  word 
and  thought,  without  any  reservation,  to  the  infal- 
lible authority  of  the  Church. 

E.  V. 

EASTPOBT,  Sybayk  Indian  Mission, 

St.  Francis  Xavier's  Day,  1869. , 


IJ    -/a* 


TRAVELS 


IN 


EUROPE,  EGYPT,  ARABIA  PETR J!A, 


ETC. 


CHAPTER  I. 

CROSSING    THE    OCEAN. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  MAINE  —  CANADA  —  QUEBEC — HON.  D'ARCY  MC- 
GEE — CANADIANS — ST.  LAWRENCE  —  GULF  OF  ST.  LAWRENCE — 
ANTICOSTI  —  STEAMER  "  NORTH  AMERICA  "  AGROUND  —  NEW- 
FOUNDLAND —  LABRADOR — ICEBERGS — STRAITS  OF  BELLE  ISLE — 
BELLEISLE — OCEAN  —  SIGHTING  THE  COAST  OF  IRELAND  —  LOUGH 
FOYLE  —  TENDER  TO  LONDONDERRY  —  GIANT'S  CAUSEWAY — ISLE 
OF  MAN  —  LANDING  AT  LIVERPOOL. 

IT  is  surprising  that,  notwithstanding  the  prog- 
ress, commerce,  and  enterprise  of  the  Americans, 
they  have  no  line  of  steamers  across  the  Atlan- 
tic, but  depend  upon  foreign  steamships.  Being 
much  subject  to  sea-sickness,  I  selected  from  the 
many  European  lines  that  of  the  Montreal  Ocean 
Steamship  Company,  because,  for  the  first  eight 
hundred  miles,  we  would  sail  over  a  land-locked 
river  and  gulf,  besides  enjoying  the  grandest  of 
North  American  scenery.\ 

Before  my  departure,  I  visited  the  Penobscot, 
Passamaquoddy,  and  Lewis  Island  Indians,  who 
gave  me  several  messages  for  the  Holy  Father, 

(17) 


18  CROSSING   THE   OCEAN. 

and  begged  his  benediction.  They  requested  me 
to  remember  them  in  the  big  wigwam  of  prayer 
of  St.  Peter,  in  Rome,  and  at  the  holy  places  of 
Palestine.  These  good  souls  could  not  realize  the 
remoteness  of  those  localities,  nor  the  immensity 
of  the  ocean,  and  asked  me  if  there  were  Indians 
there,  and  if  they  could  cross  the  ocean  in  a  large 
canoe,  and  similar  questions.  Giving  them  my 
blessing,  I  left  them,  to  see  them  again  in  one 
year,  should  such  be  the  will  of  the  Great  Spirit. 

On  the  19th  of  July,  1867,  I  left  Biddeford  and 
Portland  by  railway  for  Quebec.  Nothing  worthy 
of  note  occurred  on  the  way  to  Canada.  At  the 
frontier  only  one  trunk  was  opened,  and  nothing 
disturbed.  We  crossed  the  St.  Lawrence  early 
in  the  morning  of  the  next  day.v 

Quebec,  the  capital  of  Lower  Canada,  is  the 
best  fortified  city  in  America.  It  was  settled  by 
the  French  in  1608,  but  its  name  is  of  Indian 
origin,  Kebeke  (it  becomes  narrow).  The  river 
St.  Lawrence,  which  is  twelve  miles  wide  above 
the  city,  narrows,  as  its  waters  contract,  to  a  mile 
in  breadth  by  Cape  Diamond,  on  which  is  built 
the  strongest  citadel  in  America.  It  is  a  very 
peculiar  city,  compactly  built  of  stone,  its  princi- 
pal portions  surrounded  by  walls  arid  gates  ;  and 
its  populous  streets  narrow  and  winding.  It  ex- 
hibits in  its  environs  the  beauty  of  an  European 
capital,  but  although  in  the  same  latitude  with  the 
finest  parts  of  Europe  it  endures  in  winter  the 
cold  of  Siberia,  the  thermometer  falling  to 
forty  degrees  (Fahrenheit)  below  zero,  while  its 


HON.  D'ARCY  MCGEE.  19 

summers  are  very  warm,  rising  to  one  hundred 
degrees.  In  the  midst  of  a  great  continent,  its 
beautiful,  safe  and  spacious  harbor,  about  four 
hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  shows  fleets  of 
foreign  vessels.  The  soil  is  fertile  and  well  culti- 
vated, and  it  enjoys  an  extensive  commerce,  prin- 
cipally with  England.  Its  exports  are  three  times 
greater  than  its  imports,  showing  that  Canada,  of 
which  Quebec  is  the  seaport,  produces  more  than 
she  needs,  and  the  exchange  is  nearly  always  in 
her  favor.  For  this  reason  it  was  that  the  la- 
mented Hon.  D'Arcy  McGee,*  the  learned  and 
true  Irish  patriot,  tried  to  draw  the  emigration 
of  his  countrymen  to  Canada.  Quebec  was  sur- 
rendered to  the  English  by  the  French,  from 
whom  it  was  captured  in  1763  ;  in  1775  it  was 
unsuccessfully  attacked  by  Americans  from  the 
United  Colonies,  under  Gen.  Montgomery,  who 
fell  there  with  some  seven  hundred  of  his  men. 
Nine-tenths  of  the  Canadians,  not  only  of  the  city 
of  Quebec,  but  of  all  Lower  Canada,  are  Catho- 
lics, descendants,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  French, 
and  retain  the  religion,  the  politeness,  upright- 
ness, and  easy  manners  of  their  forefathers  ;  they 
are  good  Catholics,  refined,  and  intelligent,  arid 


*  Hon.  D'Arcy  McGee,  a  learned  and  distinguished  member  of  the 
Canadian  Parliament,  was  assassinated  in  Ottawa,  Upper  Canada, 
while  opening  the  door  of  his  house  on  his  return  from  Parliament, 
on  the  night  of  April  6-7,  1868.  His  assassin,  James  P.  Whalen,  a 
member  of  the  Fenian  Brotherhood,  was  tried,  and  hung  in  the  same 
city,  Feb.  11, 1869.  The  loss  of  the  life  of  the  assassin,  Whalen,  was 
no  loss  to  society,  and  a  thousand  such  lives  are  not  worth  the  life 
of  one  D'Arcy  McGee.  \ 


20  CROSSING   THE    OCEAN. 

their  devotional  practices,  whether  in  the  church 
or  in  their  private  families,  are  a  matter  of  aston- 
ishment to  Americans  traveling  in  Lower  Canada.  \ 
In  the  United  States,  the  Canadians  are,  as  a 
general  thing,  accused  of  lukewarmness,  of  aban- 
donment of  their  religion,  and  of  a  want  of  lib- 
erality in  providing  for  the  support  of  their 
religion  and  their  clergy.  But  these  accusations 
are  unjust  and  untrue.  That  there  are  individu- 
als of  this  description  is  undeniable  ;  but  they 
are  the  exception,  and  cannot  be  taken  as  sam- 
ples of  the  Canadian  people  ;  exceptions  of  this 
kind  are  found,  more  or  less,  among  the  emigrants 
of  every  nation.  These  charges  come  from  New 
England  and  the  north-western  border  of  New 
York  State,  where  the  Catholics  are  mostly  Irish, 
with  language  and  customs  different  from  those 
of  the  Canadians.  Many  practices  of  the  Irish 
are  national,  unknown  to  the  Canadians,  who 
have  also  their  national  customs,  unknown  to  the 
Irish.  They  are  accustomed  to  live  in  parishes, 
where  provision  is  made  for  the  support  of  the 
church  and  the  clergy  ;  they  pay  a  tithe  of  what 
they  raise  ;  they  are  accustomed  to  a  strict  ob- 
servance of  the  ceremonies  of  the  Church,  to  the 
solemn  administration  of  the  sacraments,  to  a 
frequent  ringing  of  bells,  to  devout  processions, 
to  solemn  funerals,  consisting,  not  in  a  long  line 
of  carriages  and  single  teams,  as  is  unfortunately 
the  case  in  many  parts  of  the  United  States,  not- 
withstanding the  efforts  of  many  zealous  mission- 
aries to  prevent  it,  but  solemnized  in  the  church, 


CANADIANS.  21 

with  a  solemn  Mass  of  Requiem,  a  funeral  sermon 
and  service,  low  Mass,  etc.,  according  to  the  custom 
of  Catholic  countries,  like  Canada ;  they  are  ac- 
customed to  canonical  law,  and  to  the  fixed  rules 
by  which  the  Catholic  Church  is  governed  ;  they 
abominate  profane  music  in  the  church,  and  are 
scandalized  to  see  the  church  turned,  so  to  speak, 
into  a  theatre  or  public  hall. 

Upon  emigrating  to  the  United  States,  not  un- 
derstanding the  English  language,  they  see  differ- 
ent customs,  regulations  not  in  accordance  with 
the  canon  law,  but  accommodated  to  circum- 
stances ;  they  naturally  wonder  at  it ;  they  see 
unaccustomed  collections,  apart  from  the  pew 
rents,  fees,  etc.,  taken  up  in  the  churches,  and 
can  neither  understand  nor  habituate  themselves 
to  the  practice  ;  on  this  account  they  are  accused 
of  lukewarmness  and  lack  of  religion.  For  nearly 
fifteen  years  I  have  had  many  Canadians  in  my 
missions — sometimes  they  have  formed  the  princi- 
pal portion  of  my  congregation — and  when  I  have 
explained  to  them  the  difference  between  their 
own  country  and  this,  they  understood,  and 
cheerfully  submitted  to  the  regulations  and  prac- 
tices obtaining  here,  and  I  have  found  them  as 
pious,  zealous,  and  liberal  as  any  other  Catholics. 
They  possess  many  good  qualities  :  they  are  so- 
ber ;  do  not  open  grog-shops  in  their  settlements  ; 
and  are  not  led  by  demagogues,  as  are  the  people 
of  some  other  countries,  unfortunately  ;  nor  do 
they  join  secret  societies,  of  which  they  have  a 
horror.  They  take  good  care  of  their  families,  in- 


22  CROSSING   THE   OCEAN. 

struct  their  children,  assemble  their  family  to- 
gether, and  say  with  them  their  evening  prayers, 
and  every  evening  recite  their  beads  ;  parents 
and  children  perform  the  month  of  May  devo- 
tions together,  and  great  pains  are  taken  to  pre- 
pare their  children  for  first  communion,  etc. 
Where  there  are  Catholic  schools,  they  always 
send  their  children  to  be  educated  in  them  in 
preference  to  the  godless  schools  of  America  ; 
and  to  these  things  is  mainly  due  the  control 
which  the  parents  retain,  even  after  their  chil- 
dren's marriage,  over  them  ;  they  watch  the  com- 
pany kept  by  their  children  ;  parents  are,  in 
reality,  masters  in  the  house,  and  do  not  keep 
simply  a  boarding-house,  in  and  out  of  which  the 
children  can  come  and  go  at  their  pleasure,  with- 
out permission  or  notice,  appearing  to  be,  in 
reality,  the  masters  ;  as  too  often  happens,  unhap- 
pily, in  this  country.  Several  clergymen  have 
remarked  that  the  Canadians  have  been  and  still 
are  neglected  in  this  country,  but  that  they  are, 
by  far,  more  susceptible  of  an  ascetic  life  than 
are  the  people  of  some  other  nations.\ 

In  Quebec,  I  purchased  some  articles  and  a 
bed  for  a  sick  girl  returning  to  Ireland,  and  on 
Saturday,  July  20th,  embarked  on  board  the  fine 
steamer  Hibernian,  belonging  to  the  Montreal 
Steamship  Company,  and  under  command  of  Cap- 
tain Brown.  I  had  one  of  the  best  state-rooms. 
At  10  A.M.  we  sailed  for  Liverpool,  and  com- 
menced to  descend  the  great  St.  Lawrence,  one  of 
the  largest  rivers  in  the  world,  and  the  outlet  of 


ST.    LAWRENCE.  23 

the  great  lakes,  Superior,  Huron,  Michigan,  Erie, 
and  Ontario.     The  St.  Lawrence  is  known  by  dif- 
ferent names   in  different  parts   of  its   course  ; 
between  Lakes  Superior  and  Huron  it  is  called 
St.  Mary's  or  the  Narrows ;  between  Lakes  Hu- 
ron and  St.  Clair,  the  St.  Clair ;  between  Lakes 
St.  Clair  and  Erie,  the  Detroit ;  between  Lakes 
Erie  and  Ontario,  the  Niagara;  and  from  the  sea 
to  Lake  Ontario,  the  St.  Lawrence.     Sometimes 
the  part  between  Montreal  and  Ontario  is  called 
Cateraqui,  or  Iroquois.     It  is  navigable  for  ships 
of  the  line  to  Quebec,  and  for  vessels  of  600  tons 
to  Montreal,  and  there  have  been  instances  of 
vessels  sailing  from  the  lakes  by  the  St.  Lawrence 
to  Europe.     Its  breadth,  between  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  is  from  half  a  mile  to  four  miles  ;  below 
Quebec  it  gradually  widens,  and  when  it  enters 
the   Gulf  it  attains   a  breadth   of  over   a   hun- 
dred  miles,   as   between   Cape  Rosier   and   the 
Mingan  settlement   on  the  Labrador   coast;   its 
rapids   are  avoided  by  a  canal.      The  scenery 
from  Quebec  to  the  Gulf  is  grand !     The  city  of 
Quebec  presents  itself  in  groups  as  in  an  amphi- 
theatre, surrounded   by  the  grandest  of  North 
American  scenery,  and,  as  the  steamer  rapidly 
descended  the    river,  we  saw  the   shores  lined 
with  beautiful  villages  and  well-cultivated  farms. 
We  passed  in  sight  of  the  silvery  Montmorency 
Falls   on    the   northern    shore,    and   though   we 
had  a  strong  wind  ahead,  the  Hibernian,  moved 
by  steam  and  the  current,  made  her  way  calml}r, 
majestically,  and  rapidly,  among  the  many  charm- 


24  CROSSING   THE   OCEAN. 

ing  and  finely  cultivated  islands.  The  travel- 
er's delighted  attention  is  attracted  by  the  nu- 
merous villages,  built,  as  a  general  thing,  around 
a  handsome  stone  church,  while  houses  and  farms, 
standing  apart,  studding  both  banks  of  the  river, 
imprint  upon  his  mind  an  unfading  impression  of 
the  garden  of  the  scenic  St.  Lawrence.\ 

I  felt  little  of  that  loneliness  experienced  by 
most  travelers  when,  setting  out  for  a  year's  jour- 
ney in  far  distant  lands,  they  leave  behind  them 
their  native  land,  their  relatives,  and  friends, 
and  generally  all  that  they  possess.  These 
dear  objects,  coming  before  their  memory,  cast  a 
gloom  upon  the  soul — a  gloom  that  cannot  be 
dissipated,  however  beautiful  the  scenery  sur- 
rounding them.  But  this  was  not  my  case  ;  it  is 
true  I  had  left  behind  me  many  friends,  the  mem- 
ory of  whom  enabled  me  to  realize  these  feelings 
of  loneliness  and  sadness  ;  the  retreating  shores 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  made  me  recollect  that  I  was 
to  wander  on  a  year's  pilgrimage,  but  this  thought 
was  counterbalanced  by  the  pleasure  I  expected 
in  visiting  my  native  land,  my  beautiful  Italy ; 
Gallipolis,  the  home  of  my  boyhood  ;  my  loved 
and  loving  relatives,  and  the  dear  friends  whom 
for  twenty-four  years  I  had  not  seen.  The  idea 
of  a  journey  to  Egypt  revived  my  drooping  spir- 
its. A  journey  to  Egypt!  A  visit  and  pilgrim- 
age to  the  Holy  Land,  to  pay  a  tribute  in  person 
to  the  spot  whereon  Our  Saviour  was  born — 
where  He  suffered,  died,  and  was  buried!  The 
prospect  of  realizing  a  desire  I  had  cherished  in 


ST.    LAWRENCE.  25 

my  soul  from  my  very  infancy,  so  cheered  my 
heart,  that  I  felt,  nothing  this  world  could  inflict, 
could  be  so  hard  that  it  would  not  be  well  repaid 
by  the  joy  I  should  derive  from  my  journey.  \ 

The  signal  for  luncheon  was  given,  and  I  felt 
quite  capable  of  enjoying  it.  The  commander  of 
the  Hibernian,  Captain  Brown,  was  a  thorough 
gentleman,  with  genial  manners  ;  in  general,  all 
the  officers,  and  even  the  crew  of  the  vessel,  were 
of  a  good  and  pleasant  disposition.  There  were 
about  eighty  first-class  passengers,  the  gentlemen 
sociable  and  gentlemanly  in  appearance,  the  la- 
dies amiable  and  agreeable,  and  many  times  in 
my  sea-sickness  I  received  kind  assistance  frotn 
English  ladies.  My  state-room  companion  was 
Mr.  James  E.  McFarland,  connected  with  the 
delegation  of  Mr.  Slidell,  Commissioner  from  the 
South  to  Paris  ;  he  was  a  learned  and  accom- 
plished gentleman,  and  I  feel  happy  to  have  made 
his  acquaintance.  There  were  also  four  Indians, 
one  man  and  three  women,  belonging  to  the  tribe 
of  St.  Francis,  Canada,  on  their  way  to  Paris, 
where  they  were  to  join  others  of  their  tribe,  who 
had  been  hired  by  a  gentleman  for  the  Paris  Ex- 
hibition, which  had  opened  on  the  1st  of  May  in 
the  same  year.  They  belonged  to  the  same  na- 
tion with  my  Indians  ;  they  knew  me,  and  I 
understood  their  language  ;  they  had  with  them 
some  of  my  Indian  prayer-books,  the  ALNAMBAY 
ULI  AWIKHIUAN  (Indian  Good  Book),  which  I 
arranged  and  had  printed  for  my  own  Indians. 
Above  all,  I  must  not  fail  to  mention  a  sea- 


26  CROSSING   THE   OCEAN. 

captain  from  Norway,  whose  ship  had  been 
wrecked  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, while  on  the  way  to  Quebec.  He  showed 
me  the  place,  asserting  that  it  was  all  the  fault 
of  the  pilot  —  whom  he  had  taken  on  board 
after  entering  the  mouth  of  the  river  ;  DO  lives 
were  lost,  but  otherwise  nothing  was  saved.  He 
had  with  him  the  insurance  money  and  other 
funds  obtained  at  Quebec,  and  was  now  on  his 
way  to  Liverpool  to  purchase  another  ship.  He 
was  a  most  cheerful  man,  the  very  life  of  the  pas- 
sengers. He  told  me  he  had  made  considerable 
money  during  the  Crimean  War,  as  his  ship  had 
been  chartered  by  France  to  transport  ammuni- 
tion to  the  Black  Sea.  In  the  evening  we  passed 
the  mouth  of  the  romantic  river,  Saguenay,  but 
I  felt  sea-sick  as  we  approached  the  Tadoussac 
settlement,  and  retired  without  taking  supper. 
The  pilot  left  us  in  the  night,  on  the  southern 
shore,  and  despatches  that  all  was  right  were 
telegraphed  to  Quebec.\ 

July  21,  Sunday. — The  morning  was  bright  and 
beautiful.  I  took  breakfast  in  bed,  and  got  up 
when  the  bell  rang  for  prayers,  which  were  re- 
cited in  the  cabin  by  the  captain,  for  the  first- 
class  passengers,  who  sang  several  hymns.  Had 
I  not  been  sea-sick,  I  should  have  gone  among 
the  steerage  passengers  to  say  the  beads  with  the 
Catholics,  whose  number,  however,  was  not  great ; 
as  it  was,  I  remained  in  my  state-room.  When 
prayers  were  ended,  I  went  on  deck,  and  was 
surprised  at  the  wild  scenery  presented  by  those 


,  "NORTH  AMERICAN"  AGROUND.  27 

hyperborean  regions  of  Lower  Canada,  Riinouski, 
and  Gaspe  ;  high  and  rugged  mountains,  some 
covered  with  primitive  forests,  others  barren 
and  hoary,  lifted  their  summits  to  heaven.  At 
noon  we  were  off  Mount  Louis  Eiver  in  Gaspe, 
two  hundred  and  seventy -seven  miles  from  Que- 
bec. I  could  perceive  a  few  scanty  settlements, 
which  must  have  been  made,  however,  by  fisher- 
men, for  the  soil  did  not  seem  to  be  fit  for  agricul- 
ture. The  steamer  did  not  take  the  Labrador  coast, 
but  went  between  Gaspe  and  Anticosti,  a  wild, 
barren,  rocky  island  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawr- 
ence. As  we  passed,  towards  evening,  at  a 
safe  distance  from  its  rocky  shores,  we  saw,  as 
the  captain  was  about  going  by,  the  steamer 
North  American,  which  had  run  aground  on  the 
rocks  off  the  southern  coast  of  the  island  ;  we 
passed  and  signaled  her  at  about  two  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  but  receiving  no  reply,  the  Hiber- 
nian, steamed  down  the  Gulf  towards  Newfound- 
land. The  North  American  belonged  to  the  same 
line,  and  had  started  two  weeks  before  as  for 
Liverpool,  but  on  a  foggy  night,  in  rounding  the 
south-eastern  coast  of  Anticosti,  had  grounded  so 
fast  upon  the  rocks  that  the  passengers  were 
forced  to  land  upon  the  shore  of  that  barren 
island.  A  sailing  vessel  was  hurried  to  the  near- 
est telegraphic  station  of  Lower  Canada,  and  a 
telegram  sent  to  Quebec  ;  the  Company  imme- 
diately dispatched  their  steamer  St.  George,  which 
was  all  ready  to  sail  for  Glasgow — she  belonging 
to  that  line — to  their  assistance.  She  reached 


28  CROSSING   THE   OCEAN. 

the  North  American,-  received  her  passengers 
and  freight,  and  sailed  with  them  for  Liver- 
pool. The  passengers  intending  to  sail  by  the 
St.  George,  who  remained  in  Quebec,  were  kept 
there  at  the  Company's  expense,  until  an- 
other vessel  could  be  got  ready  to  replace  the 
St.  George.  I  afterwards  learned  that  the  North 
American,  much  disabled,  was  got  off  several 
weeks  after,  and  was  taken  first  to  St.  John's, 
N.  B.,  and  afterwards  to  Liverpool  for  repairs.\ 

226?,  Monday. — We  were  in  the  middle  of  the 
Gulf,  the  sea  quite  rough  on  account  of  the  many 
currents,  running  in  different  directions,  and  I 
was  sick  and  in  bed  most  of  the  day.  We  were 
in  latitude  49°  35',  longitude  60°  02'.  On  that 
day  we  had  traveled  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
nine  miles.  In  conversation  with  the  Norwegian 
sea-captain,  T  learned  that  we  should  be  likely, 
the  next  day,  to  encounter  icebergs,  which  are 
frequently  met  in  this  latitude,  coming  from  the 
Straits  of  Belle  Isle.  I  was  much  pleased,  and 
said  I  hoped  I  should  see  some  of  them,  having 
never  met  any  in  my  life.  The  captain  replied 
that  he  would  rather  not  meet  them,  being  much 
afraid  of  them.  "Well,"  I  returned,  "I  would 
like  to  see  just  one."  But  the  experienced  old 
sea  captain  always  replied  :  "I  would  rather  not." 
Towards  evening  we  could  see  the  coast  of  New- 
foundland, discovered  by  the  Italian,  Sebastian 
Cabot,  born  in  Bristol,  England,  and  son  of  John 
Cabot,  of  Yenice.\ 

236?,  Tuesday. — I  arose  quite  early  to  enjoy  the 


LABRAD  OR ICEB  ERGS.  2  9 

view  of  the  coasts  of  Newfoundland  and  Labra- 
dor, as  we  approached  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle  ; 
the  sea  was  smooth,  and  the  atmosphere — a  rare 
thing  in  that  neighborhood,  which  is  nearly  al- 
ways fonl  with  fog — was  quite  clear.  I  had  a 
long  talk,  walking  on  deck,  with  the  captain,  who 
was  surprised  to  see  me  there  at  that  hour.  We 
passed  close  to  the  shore  of  Newfoundland,  the 
north  and  north-western  coasts  of  which  are  low, 
barren,  sandy,  and  destitute  of  animal  or  vegeta- 
ble life.  It  presented  the  appearance  of  a  desert, 
except  that  a  few  fishermen's  shanties  could  be 
seen  at  long  intervals,  on  the  shore  ;  but  even 
these  appeared  to  be  deserted,  or,  at  least,  unoc- 
cupied at  present.  I  do  not  recollect  having  seen 
a  house,  or  hut  even,  on  the  north  of  that  island. 
As  we  neared  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle  the  sea  was 
smooth,  the  weather  calm  and  clear,  but  very 
cold,  not  only  on  account  of  the  high  latitude  we 
had  reached,  and  the  neighborhood  of  Labrador, 
whose  unexplored  and  inhospitable  coasts  and 
islands  were  visible  at  a  great  distance,  but  also 
on  account  of  the  icebergs  which  were  really  in 
our  vicinity,  and  of  which  we  were  much  afraid. 
I  was  obliged  to  put  on  winter  clothes  in  order 
to  remain  on  deck,  as  were  also  the  other  passen- 
gers. Our  fears  were  soon  realized.  We  per- 
ceived what  appeared  to  be  a  number  of  sails, 
near  the  south-east  coast  of  Labrador,  advancing 
rapidly  towards  us.  I  was  attentively  gazing  at 
them  when  a  voice  ran  through  the  steamer  :  ICE- 
BERGS !  The  officers  put  themselves  on  the  "look- 
2 


30  CROSSING  THE  OCEAN. 

out.'7  We  counted  eighteen  of  them,  all  in  sight 
at  once,  increasing  in  size,  and  changing  in  shape 
in  a  marvelous  manner.  In  some  respects,  I 
was  glad  of  the  opportunity  of  seeing  them,  but  I 
began  to  realize  the  danger  of  their  presence.  I 
went  to  my  state-room  to  call  Mr.  MacFarland, 
as  I  had  promised  in  case  any  icebergs  were  in 
sight,  as  he  had  never  seen  one.  He  was  still  in 
bed,  but  soon  appeared  on  deck.  We  now  found 
ourselves  surrounded  by  ghostly  mountains  of 
ice,  some  appearing  about  to  dash  against  our 
steamer,  which  had  slacked  her  speed,  the  better 
to  avoid  the  threatened  encounter  by  changing 
her  direction.  The  fantastic  peaks  of  these  moun- 
tains, their  steeples,  and  gothic  shapes,  so  con- 
stantly changing  their  forms,  were  very  interest- 
ing. In  one  of  them  I  noticed  a  ship,  with  the 
masts  fastened  in  the  ice.  I  called  the  passen- 
gers' attention  to  it,  but  it  was  not  near  enough 
to  enable  us  to  ascertain  to  a  certainty  whether  it 
was  a  ship  or  not ;  it  might  have  been  a  tree,  or 
something  else.  I  could  see  the  tops  of  the  ice- 
bergs melting  and  running  down  in  streams  into 
the  water.  We  ran  close  enough  to  have  a  colli- 
sion with  what  appeared  to  be  the  fragment  of  an 
iceberg,  but  when  we  were  side  by  side  with  it,  it 
proved  to  have  an  immense  foundation  under 
water.  But  we  had  not  yet  seen  the  worst.  A 
thick  fog  came  upon  us,  and  the  fear  of  danger  was 
on  the  face  of  every  passenger ;  the  watchmen 
were  very  attentive,  and  on  the  alert.  Suddenly 
the  watchman  at  the  prow  gave  the  alarm,  which 


STRAITS    OF   BELLE   ISLE.  31 

was  instantly  repeated  by  every  watchman  on 
board,  and  the  helmsman  immediately  altered  the 
ship's  course,  as  a  ghastly,  oddly  -  shaped,  and 
threatening  iceberg  passed  close  to  us.  Had  it  not 
been  for  the  vigilance  of  the  watchman  at  the  prow, 
we  should  have  dashed  against  it,  and  God,  who 
watched  over  us,  alone  knows  what  would  have 
been  the  consequence.  Here  the  fog  cleared,  and 
the  strait  appeared  free  of  icebergs.  The  Hiber- 
nian pushed  steadily  on,  and  very  soon  we  were 
between  Newfoundland  and  Belleisle  ;  we  passed 
the  straits,  and  saw  only  the  wide,  wide  ocean. 
The  icebergs,  so  justly  dreaded  by  sailors,  are 
formed  in  the  Arctic  regions  of  our  hemisphere  ; 
the  snow  on  the  islands  and  continents,  melting 
in  summer,  forms  a  quantity  of  fresh  water,  which 
soon  freezes,  and  increases  yearly,  until  the  mass 
forms  into  mountains  as  high  as  the  surrounding 
cliffs  ;  the  melting  snow  fills  their  crevices,  and, 
then  freezing,  they  become  solid,  and,  reaching 
the  height  of  one  or  two  thousand  feet,  are 
plunged,  by  the  accumulated  weight  and  the  mo- 
tion of  the  ocean  at  their  base,  into  the  sea,  and  are 
driven  southward  by  the  winds  and  currents. 
From  Baffin's  Bay,  they  pass  by  Davis'  Strait  to 
the  coast  of  Labrador,  where  the  current  forces 
them  into  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle.\ 

Belli sle  is  a  small  island  at  the  entrance  of  the 
straits  of  that  name,  twenty-one  miles  in  circum- 
ference, with  two  harbors,  east  and  west,  for 
fishing  craft.  | 

We  were  now  upon  the  broad  ocean,  and  as  the 


32  CEOSSING   THE   OCEAN. 

sea  was  very  rough,  for  two  days  I  only  once, 
and  that  for  a  very  short  time,  made  my  appear- 
ance on  deck  or  in  the  cabin.  The  third  day  the 
sea  was  very  smooth,  and  the  passengers  all  ap- 
peared on  deck,  heartily  congratulating  each  other 
upon  their  recovery.  As  the  route  pursued  by 
our  line  of  steamers  is  very  northerly,  and  out  of 
the  usual  course,  we  met  with  no  sails  beside  the 
steamer  St.  George,  which,  having  landed  the  pas- 
sengers of  the  North  American  at  Liverpool,  was 
now  hurrying  to  Quebec,  to  take  its  regular  place 
in  the  line,  which  sails  a  vessel  only  once  a  fort- 
night. We  passed  at  no  great  distance  from 
Cape  Farewell,  in  Greenland,  and  Cape  Closter- 
hay,  in  Iceland  ;  but  nothing  of  special  interest 
occurred  until  we  saw  land.  I  was  more  or  less 
sea-sick  all  the  time,  and  was  attended  by  one 
of  the  servants  of  the  ship,  Louis,  an  Englishman, 
who  was  most  patient  and  attentive.  I  took  my 
breakfast  in  bed,  generally  rose  late,  and  passed 
my  time  on  deck,  or  lying  on  a  sofa  in  the  cabin, 
and  usually  took  lunch  and  dinner  lying  down, 
until  the  last  four  days,  when  the  ocean  was  so 
calm  that  I  was  able  to  sit  at  the  table. 9  On 
Monday,  the  28th,  we  sighted  land — the  western 
shores  of  Ireland.  This  put  us  in  excellent  spir- 
its, filling  us  with  the  hope  of  soon  having  a  good 
rest  on  shore.  The  mountainous  coasts  of  Donegal 
County  were  distinctly  visible,  and  we  could  see, 
along  the  coast,  quite  a  number  of  houses  and 
shanties,  from  which  great  quantities  of  smoke 
were  issuing.  We  wondered  much  and  held  great 


COAST    OF   IRELAND.  33 

discussions  as  to  the  cause  of  this  smoke,  but  finally 
concluded  that  the  people  were  curing  herrings, 
of  which  there  is  an  abundance  in  Donegal. 
Towards  dusk  we  rounded  Tory  Lighthouse,  and 
after  supper,  the  steward,  'a  good,  jovial  Scotch- 
man, entertained  us  in  the  cabin  with  comical 
Scotch  airs,  accompanied  by  appropriate  gesture 
and  accent.  They  were  very  amusing,  and  well 
rendered,  especially  one  representing  an  old 
Scotch  woman  complaining  and  quarreling  with 
her  husband.  We  were  much  pleased  with  the 
evening,  and  it  being  the  last  we  expected  to  be  on 
board,  we  took  leave  of  the  passengers,  and  bade 
farewell  to  the  captain,  steward,  and  the  Hiber- 
nian. About  midnight  we  rounded  Cape  Malin, 
the  northernmost  point  of  Ireland,  and  signalled 
for  a  pilot,  by  firing  guns  and  throwing  up  rock- 
ets. We  anchored  not  far  from  land,  and  our 
signals  were  answered.  It  was  past  midnight — 
a  beautiful,  charming,  starry,  summer  night — 
and  the  majority  of  the  passengers  were  on 
deck — those  who  were  to  land  at  Londonderry 
preparing  to  leave  the  steamer,  and  those  who 
were  bound  for  Scotland  getting  ready  to  take 
the  steamer  at  Londonderry,  for  Glasgow.  The 
Scotch  gentlemen  on  board  sang  in  chorus  several 
of  their  national  airs,  which,  heard  in  the  still- 
ness of  a  clear,  moonless  night,  by  the  romantic 
northern  shores  of  Erin,  just  after  crossing  the 
ocean,  had  a  most  enchanting  effect.  We  saw  a 
dim  light,  at  a  distance,  approaching  us.  It 
was  the  pilot-boat.  The  pilot  came  on  board, 


34  CROSSING   THE    OCEAN. 

shook  hands  with  some,  ordered  steam  up,  and 
proceeded  to  take  some  refreshments.  We  round- 
ed several  lighthouses,  entered  Lough  Foyle,  and 
anchored  opposite  Moville,  where  the  mails  and 
despatches  for  England  and  Ireland  were  sent 
ashore,  and  a  tender  arrived  from  Londonderry 
to  receive  the  passengers  and  their  luggage, 
for  Ireland  and  Scotland.  This  tender  was  no 
credit  to  the  company  owning  it.  It  was  a 
dirty  old  boat,  better  fitted  for  a  tug-boat  or  a 
scow,  than  to  carry  passengers  from  a  first-class 
steamer  to  Londonderry,  the  county  capital,  and 
one  of  the  finest  cities  in  Ireland.  Perhaps  the 
owners  think  anything  good  enough  for  Ireland. 
This,  however,  is  certain,  that  Ireland,  through 
the  emigrants  who  embark  every  year  by  thou- 
sands from  Lough  Foyle  for  Canada  and  the 
United  States,  has  given  money  enough  to  the 
company  to  enable  it  to  afford  something  bet- 
ter and  more  respectable,  than  this  affair,  by 
which  to  carry  the  Irish  passengers  between  the 
steamer  and  Londonderry.  About  a  year  later, 
I  passed  again  through  Lough  Foyle,  returning  to 
America,  and  the  same  nasty  old  concern  was 
still  the  tender  from  Londonderry  to  the  Mon- 
treal steamer.  I  shook  hands  with  many  of  the 
passengers,  who,  with  their  baggage,  were  packed 
in  the  tender  in  the  best  way  they  could  manage, 
and  I  don't  think  one  of  them  was  able  to  move  a 
foot  or  stretch  a  limb  before  landing  at  London- 
derry.\ 

The  morning  of  July  30,  (Tuesday,)  dawned  a$ 


GIANT'S  CAUSEWAY.  35 

we  were  just  leaving  Lough  Foyle.  It  was  a 
beautiful  morning,  although  rather  damp.  I  was 
on  deck,  and  presented  to  my  gaze  was  the 
beautiful  scenery  of  the  north  of  Ireland.  Al- 
though the  land  did  not  appear  to  be  very  rich, 
the  fields  were  well  cultivated,  and  an  abundant 
crop  was  being  harvested.  I  could  see  Portrush, 
which  has  now  a  considerable  commerce.  We 
passed  the  famous  basaltic  promontory,  known 
as  the  Giant's  Causeway,  the  greatest  natural 
curiosity  in  Ireland,  and  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able in  the  world.  It  consists  of  many  hundred 
thousand  pentagonal  columns  of  hard  black  rock, 
rising  from  two  to  four  hundred  feet  above  the 
water's  edge.  These  columns  are  not  each  of  one 
solid  stone,  but  of  a  number  of  shorter  pieces,  per- 
fectly joined,  arranged  side  by  side  with  exact 
uniformity,  each  piece  laid  on  the  other,  not  flatly, 
but  as  a  ball  in  its  socket,  each  socket  being  a 
cavity  of  three  or  four  inches  in  depth,  into  which 
the  convex  end  of  the  opposite  joint  is  precisely 
fitted.  It  is  doubtful  if  the  most  ingenious  mech- 
anism could  rival  the  nicety  and  perfect  uniform- 
ity of  this  work  of  nature*.  This  extraordinary 
disposition  of  rocks  continues  below  the  water's 
edge,  and  also  obtains,  but  in  a  small  degree, 
on  the  opposite  shore  of  Scotland. \ 

We  entered  the  North  Channel  between  Eath- 
lin  Island  and  Cape  Fear,  and  could  distinctly  see 
the  coast  of  Scotland,  near  Kilblaine.  We  were 
soon  off  the  Bay  of  Belfast,  which  was  in  sight, 
and  Port  Patrick,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 


36  CKOSSING   THE    OCEAN. 

channel.  Then,  making  for  the  Irish  Sea,  at  noon 
we  sighted  the  famous  Isle  of  Man,  (the  Monwda 
of  Ptolemy,)  belonging  to  Great  Britain,  situated 
in  the  Irish  Sea,  about  equidistant  from  Ire- 
land, Scotland  and  England.  It  is  thirty  miles 
long,  and  twelve  wide,  and  contains  about  fifty 
thousand  inhabitants.  Its  principal  city  is  Doug- 
las, but  Castletown  is  the  capital.  The  interior 
is  mountainous,  and  Snowfield,  or  Snafield,  the 
highest  summit,  is  about  2,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  island  is  well  cultivated,  although  the  soil  is 
not  naturally  fertile.  The  Manx  language,  a  kind 
of  Gaelic,  prevails  in  the  interior.  We  passed 
close  to  its  western  and  southern  shores.  Leav- 
ing the  Isle  of  Man,  the  coast  of  England  appeared 
in  view,  and  we  could  see  the  wild  scenery  of  the 
mountains  in  the  north  of  Wales.  Late  in  the 
afternoon,  we  entered  the  Mersey,  which  looked 
like  a  forest  of  masts,  anchored  in  the  river,  or 
lying  at  the  docks,  which  are  famous  for  their 
magnificence  and  their  size,  covering  two  hundred 
acres,  with  fifteen  miles  of  quays.  It  was  about 
dusk,  and  the  Hibernian  went  directly  to  the 
quay.  We  took  leave  of  our  fellow  passengers, 
Mr.  MacFarland  and  I  agreeing  to  remain  at  the 
same  hotel.  Two  young  English  ladies,  who  had 
been  disappointed  in  their  expectation  of  being 
met  by  relatives  from  York,  and  were  much  em- 
barrassed in  consequence,  we  advised  to  join 
some  of  our  friends,  passengers  on  the  Hibernian, 
at  their  hotel.\ 

All  the  luggage  was  landed  here,  on  the  wharf, 


LANDING    AT   LIVERPOOL.  37 

to  be  inspected  by  the  custom-house  officers, 
guarded  from  thieves  by  a  number  of  policemen. 
While  Mr.  MacFarland  went  to  find  a  carriage,  I 
attended  to  the  baggage — his  and  mine.  The 
officers  were  very  courteous  and  gentlemanly, 
simply  asking  me  if  it  contained  any  cigars  or 
other  contraband  articles  ;  and  being  assured  it 
did  not,  let  it  pass,  without  even  opening  it.  My 
wish  was  to  be  driven  directly  to  the  hotel,  with 
my  baggage,  which  was  not  extensive  ;  but  the 
hackmen  refused  to  carry  it,  insisting  that  bag- 
gage is  always  sent  by  express  ;  and  this  statement 
being  confirmed  by  the  policemen,  we  were  oblig- 
ed to  submit,  and  give  it.  with  the  hotel  address,  to 
an  expressman.  Except,  perhaps,  upon  this  occa- 
sion, this  is  not  the  general  regulation  for  the  hacks 
in  Liverpool.  I  have  several  times  had  hacks 
carry  me  and  my  luggage  from  the  hotel  to  the 
depot,  and  vice  versa ;  and  even  when  returning 
to  America  by  the  same  steamer,  I  took  my  bag- 
gage in  the  hack  with  me  to  the  quay.  I  am  in- 
clined to  believe  that  it  was  the  consequence  of 
an  agreement  between  the  hackmen  and  the  truck- 
men, with  the  connivance  of  the  police,  made  to 
extort  extra  payment  from  passengers  ;  for  we 
were  obliged  to  pay  the  express  or  truckman  one 
shilling  for  every  article,  no  matter  what  it  was, 
even  an  umbrella.  But  I  ana  obliged  to  admit 
that  the  English  police  force  is  famous  for  its 
orderly,  honest  and  excellent  regulations.\ 


CHAPTER  II. 

ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND  AND    IRELAND. 

LIVERPOOL THE     GREAT     EASTERN RAILWAYS     IN     ENGLAND BOLTON 

CANON  CARTER MANCHESTER YORK CATHEDRAL  —  SCOTLAND  —  BER- 
WICK   EDINBURGH LOSS  OF  MY  BAGGAGE EDINBURGH  CASTLE CARL- 
TON  HILL PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD MARY  STUART RIZZIO 

JOHN  KNOX EXECUTION  OF  MARY SIR  WALTER  SCOTT GLASGOW — THE 

VENERABLE    BISHOP    OF    GLASGOW THE    CLYDE IRELAND BELFAST 

DOWNPATRICK ST.  PATRICK'S    GRAVE ARMAGH DUBLIN GAL  WAY 

KILLARNEY CORK — ENGLAND    AGAIN WALES BRISTOL LONDON — ST. 

PAUL'S WESTMINSTER TOWER  OF  LONDON. 

\ENGLAND  is  decidedly  the  first  of  nations,  as 
regards  commerce  and  manufacture.  The  cotton 
mills  of  Lancashire,  the  wool  factories  of  York- 
shire, the  foundries  of  Stafford  and  Scotland,  the 
iron  establishments  of  Birmingham,  the  cutlery 
of  Sheffield,  cannot  be  surpassed  ;  but  Liverpool 
is  the  chief  representative  of  the  extensive  com- 
merce of  this  great  nation.  Situated  as  it  is,  with 
its  three  hundred  and  seventy-six  thousand  in- 
habitants, on  the  north-east  side  of  the  Mersey, 
near  the  river's  mouth,  extending  for  three  miles 
along  its  banks,  it  is  most  admirably  situated  for 
an  immense  commerce.\ 

We  were  unable,  as  it  was  already  full,  to  find 
rooms  in  the  hotel  we  had  selected,  and  were 
equally  unsuccessful,  for  the  same  reason,  in 
three  others  ;  but  were  finally  able  to  obtain 
rooms  at  Lawrence's  Temperance  Hotel,  a  good 

(38) 


THE   GREAT   EASTERN.  39 

and  convenient  house,  and  not  very  expensive, 
charging  fourteen  shillings  sterling  for  two  days, 
including  everything.\ 

I  saw  the  docks,  the  custom-house,  St.  George's 
Hall,  the  market-house,  the  equestrian  statue,  exe- 
cuted by  Westmacott,  of  George  III.,  at  the  junc- 
tion of  London  Road  and  Pembroke  Place,  and 
the  bronze  statue,  by  the  same  artist,  of  Nelson, 
in  which  the  dying  hero,  with  an  enemy  prostrate 
and  crushed  under  his  feet,  is  receiving  a  naval 
crown  of  victory.  The  zoological  gardens  are  no 
longer  in  existence.  I  saw  some  churches,  but 
there  was  nothing  especially  noticeable  about 
them.  I  had  letters  of  introduction  to  the  Bishop 
of  Liverpool,  but  as  he  resided  out  of  the  city, 
I  had  not  the  pleasure  of  meeting  him.  Liv- 
erpool is  not  a  very  clean  city.  No  doubt  a 
city  with  such  an  extensive  commerce,  cannot 
be  expected  to  be  remarkable  for  its  neatness. 
Vessels  can  be  seen  there  from  every  nation  of 
the  earth.\ 

The  next  day,  we,  Mr.  MacFarland  and  I,  vis- 
ited the  leviathan  of  ships,  the  Great  Eastern, 
anchored  in  the  Mersey.  It  has  eight  masts,  and 
several  boilers,  while  its  monster  engine  is  really 
something  surprising.  Its  anchor  is  worked  by 
steam.  The  vessel  looks  like  a  small  village, 
with  its  workshops,  some  of  them  worked  by 
steam,  and  requires  several  hundred  men  to  man 
it.  It  will  be  enough,  to  give  an  idea  of  its  size, 
to  say  that  any  large  object  near  it,  when  looked 
at  from  its  extreme  end,  appears  considerably 


40  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND   AND    IEELAND. 

diminished  in  size  ;  that  during  one  of  her  trips, 
a  daily  paper  was  published  on  board  ;  and  that, 
during  her  last  passage  between  the  two  conti- 
nents, at  the  time  of  the  Paris  Exhibition,  one  of 
the  fore  planks  was  stove  in,  by  a  blow  from  a 
heavy  sea,  unperceived,  the  shock  not  being 
noticed.\ 

On  Thursday,  August  1,  at  noon,  I  left  Liver- 
pool for  Bolton.  The  English  railroads  are  the 
worst  managed  I  have  ever  seen,  except  that  of 
Civita  Vecchia,  in  the  Roman  States.  I  took  a 
second-class  ticket.  The  cars  were  very  incon- 
venient. Persons  traveling  in  England  should  go 
either  by  the  first-class  or  third-class,  as  the 
latter  is  nearly  as  good  as  the  second.  There  are 
no  baggage  cars,  and  trunks,  valises,  etc.,  for 
which  you  are  given  no  check,  and  are  not 
charged,  are  put  on  top  of  the  cars,  and  covered 
with  mats  and  oil-cloth.  I  do  not  know  whether 
the  company  is  responsible  for  the  baggage  or 
not.  I  thought  if  this  plan  were  adopted  in  the 
United  States,  no  trunk  or  valise  would  arrive  in 
a  sound  condition  at  its  destination.  But  in  Eng- 
land the  baggage  is  well  looked  after  and  carefully 
handled.  What  a  contrast  to  the  United  States, 
where  trunks,  valises  and  boxes  are  roughly 
handled,  thrown  one  on  top  of  the  other,  and 
smashed  without  mercy  or  discretion.  A  bill  has 
this  year  been  introduced  into  the  Maine  Legisla- 
ture, to  protect  travelers  from  having  their  bag- 
gage injured  in  cars,  stages  or  steamboats.\ 

Bolton  is  about  thirty  miles  from  Liverpool. 


BOLTON.  41 

The  road  passes  through  many  fine  manufacturing 
villages,  well  cultivated  farms,  neat  cottages  and 
country  houses,  and  beautiful  fruit  and  flower 
gardens,  arranged  with  taste  and  care.  I  arrived 
at  Bolton  at  half-past  one  in  the  afternoon,  went  to 
the  Swan  Hotel,  an  indifferent  inn,  but  the  best  in 
the  place,  and  immediately  after  dinner  drove  to 
the  Church  of  St.  Peter  and  Paul,  to  pay  a  visit  to 
its  rector,  the  Rev.  Canon  Edmund  Carter,  a  very 
distinguished  gentleman  from  Belgium,  who  had 
received  his  education  in  a  college  in  Spain.  I 
had  not  the  pleasure  of  his  acquaintance,  as  this 
was  my  first  visit  to  Bolton  ;  but  I  felt  as  if  I 
knew  him,  on  account  of  Miss  Elizabeth  Collins, 
a  native  of  Manchester,  who  had  resided  for  sev- 
eral years  in  Bolton,  and  knew  him  well.  In 
1866,  she  visited  Ireland  and  her  native  country 
to. see  her  relatives  and  friends,  and  mentioning 
to  the  Rev.  Canon  Carter  that  I  intended,  in 
about  a  year,  to  visit  England,  he  was  kind 
enough"  to  send  me  an  invitation,  which  I  accept- 
ed with  great  pleasure.  He  was  not  at  home 
when  I  reached  Bolton,  but  was  expected  in  the 
next  day.  I  was  kindly  pressed  to  take  up  my 
lodging  at  his  residence,  and  I  sent  to  the  hotel 
for  my  baggage.  There  were  two  reverend  gen- 
tlemen, Irish,  staying  at  his  house  at  the  time, 
but  they  both  left  the  same  day,  for  their  parishes 
in  Ireland.  One  of  them  resided  near  the 
Lakes  of  Killarney,  and  tendered  me  an  invita- 
tion to  visit  him,  when  in  that  neighborhood  ; 
but  I  was  not  able  to  avail  myself  of  the  promised 


42  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND    TEELAND. 

pleasure  of  such  a  visit,  for  when  leaving  Killar- 
ney,  I  was  already  so  much  behind  time,  that  I 
was  greatly  afraid  I  would  be  unable  to  accomplish 
my  intended  and  strictly  denned  tour.\ 

Bolton  is  a  thriving  manufacturing  town  of 
about  forty  thousand  inhabitants,  with  two  fine 
market  houses,  well  provisioned,  and  not  ex- 
celled by  those  of  Liverpool.  The  old  and  the 
new  Chorley  roads  are  handsomely  laid  out,  and 
afford  a  fine  promenade.  Lemour  Street  is  re- 
markable for  its  length  and  breadth.  The  streets 
are  all  paved  and  provided  with  good  sidewalks. 
The  buildings  are  all  of  brick  or  stone.  I  did  not 
see  one  of  wood.  There  are  two  nice  parks,  well 
laid  out  in  walks  and  miniature  lakes,  in  which 
ducks,  geese,  swans,  and  other  water  fowl  were 
sporting.  Bolton  has  no  harbor,  as  it  is  in  the 
interior  ;  but  it  possesses  a  canal,  is  intersected 
by  several  lines  of  railroad,  has  two  railway 
stations,  an  extensive  commerce,  a  theatre,  four 
Catholic  churches,  four  Catholic  schools  for  boys, 
and  as  many  for  girls,  several  convents,  and  a 
fine  Catholic  cemetery.  Still,  Bolton  is  not  a 
city,  only  a  town.  I  could  not  but  contrast  the 
difference  between  England  and  New  England, 
where  so  many  small  places,  such  as  Portsmouth, 
Concord,  Dover,  etc.,  in  New  Hampshire,  and  in 
Maine,  Biddeford,  Saco,  Portland,  Augusta,  Ban- 
gor,  Calais,  and  similar  pretty  wooden  towns 
"  down  East,"  are  styled  cities,  while  not  one  of 
them  is  as  large  or  of  as  much  importance  as 
Bolton.  The  climate  was  not  pleasant  to  me. 


CANON    CARTER.  43 

The  air,  impregnated  with  coal  smoke  and  gas 
from  the  numerous  foundries  and  factories,  is 
disagreeable  to  a  stranger.  On  this  account,  the 
houses  look  as  if  they  were  old.  The  windows 
have  to  be  cleaned  every  week,  and  the  door 
steps  every  day.  You  do  not  often  see  gilt  frames 
in  churches,  drawing-rooms,  and  elsewhere,  as  they 
tarnish  so  quickly  in  that  atmosphere.  The  misty 
sky  often  resolves  itself  into  rain,  and  though  the 
morning  ma}r  appear  bright  and  clear,  a  few  hours 
may  bring  a  heavy  rain — so  much  so,  that  many 
Englishmen  seldom,  if  ever,  use  a  cane,  but  are  al- 
ways provided  with  an  umbrella.  This  is  the  con- 
dition of  a  great  part,  but  not  of  all  England.  I 
was  much  amused  by  the  rattling  on  the  side- 
walks of  the  clogs  worn  by  women,  which  is  a 
curious  noise  to  one  unaccustomed  to  it\ 

The  next  day  the  Reverend  Canon  Carter  re- 
turned to  Bolton,  and  welcomed  me  as  an  old 
friend  ;  it  was  the  first  time  I  had  felt  at  home 
since  leaving  America,  and  I  greatly  needed  it, 
having  suffered  so  much  from  sea-sickness.  On 
Saturday  afternoon  the  Reverend  gentleman's 
housekeeper,  Miss  Smith,  an  accomplished  Eng- 
lish lady,  of  Chester,  returned  from  London,  and 
I  was  very  happy  to  make  her  acquaintance. 
The  neatness  of  the  church,  the  propriety  and 
beauty  of  the  sanctuary,  altar,  vestry  and  vest- 
ments bore  high  testimony  to  her  excellence.  In 
England  it  is  usual  for  the  housekeeper  to  take 
charge  of  the  altar  and  vestry.  Canon  Carter 
has  been  in  Bolton  for  twenty- two  years  and  the 


44  ENGLAISTD,    SCOTLAND    AND   IBELAND. 

good  he  has  done  there  is  immense.  He  was 
stationed  at  first  in  Liverpool,  but  when  the  new 
diocese  of  Salford  was  separated  from  that  of 
Liverpool,  he  went  to  Manchester  and  from  there 
to  Bolton,  and  was  then  the  only  Catholic  priest 
in  the  place  in  which  there  was  but  one  Catholic 
church.  He  erected  St.  Edward's  Church,  and 
assisted  in  building  two  others,  and  established 
schools  and  a  convent.  It  is  true  he  had  the  ad- 
vantage of  not  being  subject  to  removal,  as  he 
was  canonically  established  rector  of  the  church  ; 
changes  of  pastors  nearly  always  interfere  with 
the  welfare  of  the  congregation.  He  has  made 
many  converts.  One  evening  we  visited  a  family 
in  which  there  were  a  number  of  children  whose 
father,  a  Protestant,  had  persistently  refused  to 
have  them  baptized,  and  their  mother,  a  Catholic, 
not  daring  to  do  it ;  yet  he  himself  finally  sent  for 
Canon  Carter,  and  arrangements  were  made  for 
their  christening.  \ 

On  Sunday  I  said  Mass  early  and  then  went  to 
see  Manchester,  the  greatest  manufacturing  place 
in  England,  and,  next  to  London,  the  largest  city 
in  the  United  Kingdom.  I  saw  the  city,  but  I  was 
not  particular  about  seeing  the  manufacturing 
establishments,  as  I  was  well  acquainted  with 
them.  At  Salford,  which  I  visited  also.  I  saw  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  John,  a  fine  church  ;  I  saw 
besides,  St.  Mary's,  the  oldest  Catholic  Church 
in  Manchester,  where  the  Derby  family  have  a 
chapel  :  Granboro'  and  other  churches  ;  Prince 
Albert's  and  other  fine  marble  monuments.  In 


MANCHESTER  —  YORK.  45 

the  afternoon  I  paid  a  visit  to  Peel's  Park,  which  is 
beautiful,  and  saw  the  marks  of  the  extraordinary 
inundation  of  last  year,  which  covered  two-thirds 
of  the  park  with  a  considerable  depth  of  water  ; 
several  boats  used  upon  the  occasion  were  pre- 
served in  memory  of  the  inundation.  The  day 
was  beautiful  ;  I  said  my  office  in  the  park,  and 
found  great  pleasure  in  examining  the  monu- 
ments and  statues  there.  An  inscription  at  the 
base  of  a  marble  statue  of  somo  noted  personage, 
whose  name  I  do  not  remember,  struck  me  forc- 
ibly:  "MY  WEALTH  DID  NOT  CONSIST  IN  THE 
GREATNESS  OF  MY  RICHES,  BUT  IN  THE  SMALLNESS 

OF  MY  WANTS."  It  opens  a  wide  field  for  philoso- 
phical reflections 

I  returned  to  Bolton  and  next  day  took  leave 
of  the  Rev.  Canon  Carter,  whose  kindness  I  shall 
never  forget,  and  I  take  this  occasion  to  express 
my  gratitude  not  only  to  him,  but  to  Miss  Smith, 
for  their  friendly  hospitality.  They  were  anxious 
to  detain  me  longer,  but  as  this  would  interfere 
materially  with  my  tour,  I  was  forced  to  depart, 
promising  another  visit  upon  my  return.  / 

I  regret  that  I  was  obliged  to  leave  Manches- 
ter without  the  pleasure  of  visiting  his  lordship, 
Dr.  William  Turner,  the  saintly  Bishop  of  Salford, 
to  whom  I  had  a  note  of  introduction.  It  was  quite 
late  and  I  was  fearful  of  missing  the  train,  having 
promised  to  return  that  evening  to  Bolton  which 
I  was  to  leave  the  next  day.i 

I  then  turned  to  York,  desirous  of  seeing  its 
grand  cathedral,  one  of  the  best  preserved  Gothic 
3 


46  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND    IRELAND. 

buildings  in  Europe.  York,  the  ancient  Ebora- 
cum,  is  an  old  city  looked  upon  as  the  capital  of 
the  north  of  England,  containing  however  at  pres- 
ent only  about  forty-five  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  was  the  seat  successively  of  Adrian,  Severus, 
and  other  Eoinan  emperors,  and  the  birthplace, 
in  272,  of  Constantine  the  Great,  whose  father, 
Constantius,  died  here  in  307.  The  cathedral, 
more  commonly  called  York  Minster,  was  com- 
menced by  Edwin,  King  of  Northumberland,  in 
625,  who  laid  its  foundations,  but  the  greater 
part  of  it  was  built  in  the  thirteenth  and  four- 
teenth centuries.  The  entire  length  of 'this  magni- 
ficent edifice,  from  east  to  west,  is  five  hundred 
and  twenty-five  feet,  its  breadth  one  hundred  and 
five,  the  height  of  the  grand  lantern  tower  two 
hundred  and  thirteen  feet.  The  church  is  re- 
markable for  the  simplicity  of  its  design,  which  is 
that  of  a  Latin  cross,  the  arms  of  which  are 
rectangular,  and  the  transept  in  the  middle  of 
the  length  of  the  building.  The  great  eastern 
window  consists  of  upwards  of  two  hundred  com- 
partments, representing  scenes  from  the  life  of 
Christ,  the  saints,  and  the  Holy  Scriptures. 
When  I  first  entered  this  truly  imposing  church, 
and  commenced  to  admire  the  grandeur  of  its 
spacious  vaults,  its  many  naves,  its  high  pillared 
arches,  etc.,  and  reflected  that  this  really  grand 
building  had  been  consecrated  to  God  by  the  fol- 
lowers of  the  true  religion  ;  when  I  saw  the  place 
where  the  high  altar  had  stood,  upon  which  the 
holy  Sacrifice  of  the  Mass  had  once  been  offered  ; 


YORK  CATHEDRAL.  47 

when  I  heard  the  tones  of  the  magnificent  organ, 
bringing  to  my  ears  not  the  harmony  and  fervency 
of  the  Catholic  service  which  had  been  banished 
from  that  building,  once  the  house  of  the  living 
God,  but  now  resounding  with  the  dull  strains  of 
a  strange  and  false  worship,  intruded  upon  it,  not 
acceptable  to  God,  even  established  expressly 
against  his  will,  and  his  honor, — a  worship  not 
even  respected  by  the  worshippers  themselves, 
as  the  presence  of  the  few  scanty  worshippers, 
their  carelessness  and  indifference,  abundantly 
testified ;  (the  sexton  stretched  a  rope  from  the 
choir  to  a  cluster  of  pillars  at  the  angle  of  the  large 
nave,  then  another  between  this  and  the  transept 
to  prevent  the  people  from  walking  during  the 
service  ;  the  people  present,  myself  included,  did 
not  amount  to  a  dozen,  and  we  were  penned  in  a 
narrow  space  near  the  side  door  ;)  when  I  saw 
and  reflected  upon  these  things,  I  could  not  re- 
strain my  tears,  and  instead  of  rejoicing  in  this 
grand  temple,  I  felt  anxious  to  leave  it  and  seek 
elsewhere  for  a  house  of  God.  York  is  now 
the  See  of  the  Archbishop  of  York,  who  is  styled 
Primate  of  England.  The  chapter  consists  of 
over  forty  dignitaries,  and  services  are  held 
daily,  morning  and  evening,  in  the  church.  The 
Catholics  have  built  another  good  Catholic  Ca- 
thedral in  the  same  City  of  York.\ 

At  the  hotel,  the  Royal  Station  Hotel,  a  very 
expensive  one,  where  they  charged  me  five  shil- 
lings for  dinner,  I  met  Dr.  Dominick  O'Brien, 
Bishop  of  Waterford,  (Ireland,)  and  several 


48  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND   IEELAND. 

clergymen  ;  he  very  kindly  invited  me  to  stay  at 
his  house  when  going  through  Ireland.  He  was 
a  dignified,  unpretending,  and  intellectual  look- 
ing gentleman,  easy  and  amiable  in  his  manners, 
and  spoke  Italian  very  correctly.  Later  in  the 
afternoon  I  saw  the  city,  which  is  surrounded  by 
ancient  walls,  supposed  to  have  been  erected  in 
1280  by  Edward  I.  I  had  a  delightful  promenade 
on  them  around  the  city,  which  is  entered  by  four 
gates.  It  is  said  that  it  dates  back  nearly  1,000 
years  before  Christx 

On  the  6th,  at  half  past  two  in  the  morning,  I 
left  York  for  Scotland,  meeting  in  the  cars  with  a 
very  pleasant  company  of  two  gentlemen  and 
three  ladies  of  Glasgow,  returning  from  a  tour  in 
Sweden  and  Norway.  We  passed  the  remainder 
of  the  night  in  pleasant  conversation,  and  I 
received  very  valuable  information  concerning 
these  hyperborean  regions  of  Northern  Europe, 
the  native  land  proper  of  the  Normans.  It 
was  broad  daylight  before  we  left  Yorkshire,  and 
we  breakfasted  at  Newcastle,  the  capital  of 
Northumberland  County.  Newcastle  is  built 
upon  very  rich  soil,  highly  cultivated  ;  its  wealth 
lies  in  its  coal  which  is  the  best  in  England.  We 
crossed  the  Tweed,  the  boundary  line  between 
England  and  Scotland,  by  a  bridge  one  thousand 
one  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  long,  with  six 
arches,  and  entered  the  town  of  Berwick,  which 
although  it  naturally  belongs  to  Scotland,  as  it 
is  on  the  north  or  Scotch  side  of  the  Tweed,  is 
really  at  present  part  of  England ;  this  is  the 


LOSS    OF   MY   BAGGAGE.  49 

ancient  Tuesis,  now  J3erwic7c~upon- Tweed,  and  is 
considered  both  by  England  and  Scotland  as  a 
fortress  of  the  greatest  importance,  and  they 
made  it  the  theatre  of  many  sanguinary  conflicts 
between  their  respective  armies.  After  repeated 
sieges  and  much  bloodshed  it  was  finally  ceded 
to  England  in  1502,  and  after  the  death  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  in  1603,  James  I.  of  England,  and  VI. 
of  Scotland,  was  proclaimed  King  of  England, 
France  and  Ireland.  Here,  and  for  several  miles 
along  the  road,  we  enjoyed  a  fine  view  of  the 
stormy  German  Ocean.  We  then  crossed  the 
Tyne,  passed  through  Haddington,  the  capital  of 
East  Lothian  County,  and  soon  reached  the  depot 
at  Edinburgh,  Scotland's  capital.\ 

Here  I  missed  all  my  baggage,  excepting  the 
little  valise  I  had  with  me  in  the  cars,  and  went 
to  the  station-master,  who  showed  me  all  the  bag- 
gage. Mine  was  not  there.  He  then  asked  me 
at  what  place  I  had  put  it  on  the  cars.  I  said  : 
"  At  York  ;"  and  showed  a  small  piece  of  printed 
paper,  which  I  had  received  at  the  York  station 
from  the  person  in  charge.  Seeing  this,  the  Ed- 
inburgh station-master  said:  "Your  baggage  is 
at  the  York  station  ;  it  was  not  put  on  the  cars." 
I  insisted  that  I  had  told  the  man  to  have  it  put  on 
the  cars  ;  and  then  I  learned  that  the  note  I  held 
was  not  a  kind  of  baggage-check  by  which  I  could 
claim  my  trunks  at  their  destination,  but  that  I 
should  have  returned  the  note  to  the  baggage - 
master,  and  have  seen  the  baggage  put  upon  the 
cars  before  leaving  the  place.  I  now  gave  the 


50  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND   IRELAND. 

note  to  the  station-master,  who  told  me  to  call  the 
next  day  and  I  would  find  it  all  right.  I  took  up 
my  lodgings  at  the  Waverley  Hotel,  in  Prince 
street,  the  principal  street  of  Edinburgh .\ 

Edinburgh,  the  metropolis  of  Scotland,  is  an 
imposing  and  interesting  city,  and  in  the  matter 
of  antiquities  and  historical  records,  ranks  with 
the  first  cities  of  Europe.  Its  origin  is  lost  in 
remote  antiquity  ;  its  present  population  is  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  The  city  is 
divided,  by  a  deep  and  wild  ravine,  into  the  old 
and  the  new  town,  united  by  a  large  bridge  and 
a  mound  of  earth.  This  ravine  has  been  convert- 
ed into  beautiful  gardens  ;  and  instead  of  a  de- 
formity, as  before,  is  now  an  ornament  to  the 
city.  I  several  times  recited  my  office  in  the 
shelter  of  its  fine  shade  trees.  The  day  after 
my  arrival  I  returned  to  the  depot  and  found  my 
baggage,  which  had  just  arrived  from  York,  and 
for  which  they  required  no  payment.  My  next 
thought  was  to  visit  Edinburgh  Castle,  the  monu- 
ment of  so  many  romantic  and  historical  memo- 
ries. It  stands  on  the  brink  of  a  frightful  preci- 
pice, and  by  virtue  of  a  contract  between  England 
and  Scotland,  must  be  kept  always  fortified  and 
garrisoned.  I  saw  the  crown  jewels,  which  are 
kept  in  this  castle  ;  as  also  the  room  in  which  the 
unfortunate  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  gave  birth  to 
a  son,  afterwards  James  VI,  and  the  window 
from  which,  when  only  eight  days  old,  he  was  let 
down  in  a  basket,  to  be  carried  to  a  place  of 
greater  safety.  I  visited  the  state  prisons,  the 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD.      51 

armory,  and  the  gigantic  cannon  called  Mons 
Meg.  I  drove  to  Calton  Hill,  where  I  visited 
the  monument  erected  to  Dugald  Stewart,  and 
saw  the  Observatory,  which  is  well  worth  a  visit. 
On  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  a  monument  to  Nel- 
son, a  circular  column  one  hundred  and  eight  feet 
high.  Close  to  it  is  a  national  monument  in  com- 
memoration of  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  built  on 
the  model  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  but  not 
finished  for  want  of  funds.  From  this  point  can 
be  seen  Burns'  Monument,  the  valley  by  Holy- 
rood,  Arthur's  Seat,  Lammermuir,  and  Pentland 
Hills.  I  visited  the  old  jail,  an  ancient,  massive, 
and  curiously  constructed  building ;  the  names 
of  many  unfortunate  prisoners  are  seen  on  the 
walls  of  its  cells,  besides  many  curious  works  en- 
graved on  its  walls,  the  labor  of  the  leisure  hours 
of  those  confined  there.  In  the  afternoon  I  drove 
to  the  extreme  eastern  part  of  the  old  city  to  see 
the  ancient  palace  and  abbey  of  Holy  rood,  or 
what  remains  of  this  memorial  of  Scotland's  an- 
cient splendor.  Holyrood  Palace,  the  ancient  resi- 
dence of  Scottish  royalty,  was  a  magnificent  build- 
ing in  former  times  ;  it  is  a  large,  quadrangular 
structure,  built  of  hewn  stones,  with  a  court  inside 
surrounded  by  balconies  ;  in  its  gallery,  which 
is  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  are  portraits  of 
all  the  kings  of  Scotland,  from  Fergus  I.  It  is 
now  used  at  the  election  of  the  sixteen  peers  of 
Scotland,  to  determine  their  order  in  Parliament. 
In  the  north-west  tower  are  the  rooms  last  occu- 
pied by  the  unfortunate  Mary  Stuart.  I  saw  her 


52  ENGLAND,   SCOTLAND   AND    IEELAND. 

bed-chamber,  with  what  remains  of  the  crimson 
damask  bed  ;  the  walls  decorated  with  tapestry 
embroidered  by  her  own  hands.  Her  prie-dieu  on 
which  she  knelt  in  prayer  ;  the  ruins  of  an  dltare 
portabile  (movable  altar),  and  several  other  arti- 
cles belonging  to  her,  are  there  ;  and  her  bed- 
room remains  as  she  left  it.  I  saw  the  cabinet 
from  which  David  Rizzio,  an  Italian,  the  Queen's 
faithful  secretary,  was  dragged,  and  murdered  in 
her  very  presence.  The  profligate  Henry  Darn- 
ley,  whom  Rizzio  had  assisted  to  obtain  the  hand 
of  Mary,  planned  the  conspiracy  against  him,  and 
found  his  tools  in  the  venal  cowards,  Morton, 
Ruthven,  Lindsay,  Maitland,  Kerr,  and  Ballen- 
tyne  (names  forever  infamous  in  the  pages  of 
Scottish  history),  having  carefully  circulated  the 
report  that  Rizzio  was  an  emissary  of  the  Pope, 
and  that  Mary  had  joined  the  Holy  League  for 
the  extermination  of  the  Protestants  by  a  general 
massacre.  On  Saturday,  March  9th,  Chancellor 
Morton,  followed  by  eighty  armed  men,  took  pos- 
session of  the  palace  gates,  while  Mary,  who  two 
days  before  had  opened  the  Parliament,  and  was 
in  an  advanced  state  of  pregnancy,  was  at  the 
table  in  her  bed-room,  attended  by  the  commen- 
dator  of  Holyrood  House,  the  Countess  of  Argyle, 
her  brother  and  sister,  Erskine,  captain  of  the 
guards,  and  Beaton,  master  of  the  household.  The 
Queen's  husband  entered  by  a  private  staircase, 
followed  by  the  conspirators.  Mary,  alarmed, 
ordered  Ruthven  from  the  room  under  penalty 
of  treason.  Rizzio,  fearing  for  his  life,  sprang  be- 


EIZZIO.  53 

hind  the  Queen,  crying:  "Giustizia!  Giustizia!" 
hoping  the  respect  due  to  the  Queen  would  pro- 
tect him  from  the  assassins  ;  but,  disregarding 
her  prayers  and  -her  condition,  George  Douglas 
snatched  Darnley's  dirk,  struck  over  the  Queen's 
shoulder,  and  left  the  weapon  sticking  in  Rizzio's 
back,  Ballentyne  meantime  menacing  the  Queen 
with  his  dagger,  and  Kerr  holding  a  pistol  to 
her  breast.  In  the  struggle  the  table  was  over- 
turned, and  the  assassin,  dragging  Rizzio  through 
the  bed-room  and  ante-chamber,  dispatched  him 
at  the  head  of  the  staircase,  leaving  him  pierced 
with  fifty-six  wounds.\ 

Eizzio  was  a  native  of  Piedmont,  who  came  to 
Scotland  in  the  suite  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy,  and 
was  recommended  to  the  Queen,  who  gave  him 
an  appointment  as  interpreter  ;  adroit,  discreet, 
and  faithful,  he  gained  her  favor  and  confidence, 
and,  at  her  marriage,  was  made  keeper  of  the 
privy  purse  for  Darnley  and  herself.  It  is  con- 
tended that  Rizzio  had  received  many  private 
warnings  of  the  plot  against  him,  and  that  Sir 
James  Melville,  in  particular,  warned  him  of  the 
danger  which,  in  every  country,  menaces  a  for- 
eigner who  so  enjoys  the  sovereign's  favor  as  to 
excite  the  jealousy  of  the  native  born,  and  made 
him  fully  acquainted  with  the  plot  against  him. 
I  saw  the  stains  of  Rizzio's  blood,  still  visible, 
on  the  floor  near  the  staircase.) 

I  visited  the  abbey,  founded  in  1128  by  David 
L,  used  as  a  royal  burying-place,  of  which  the  four 
walls  alone  remain.  Around  these  walls  are  the 


54      ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND. 

tombs  of  many  of  the  kings  and  queens  of  Scotland  ; 
and  the  vast  choir  is  still  shown  wherein  stood 
the  altar  before  which  the  beautiful  Mary  was 
united  in  marriage  with  Henry  Darnley,  the 
nearest  heir  to  the  English  crown.\ 

In  Edinburgh,  I  passed  by  the  house  and 
church  of  the  apostate,  John  Knox,  and  some  of 
the  friends  with  me  requested  me  to  enter  and 
see  it,  but  I  refused,  saying,  I  not  only  had  no 
sympathy  for  him,  but  that  I  despised  him.  We 
talked  of  his  apostacy  from  the  Catholic  Church, 
in  which  he  had  been  a  clergyman,  of  his  becom- 
ing a  preacher  of  the  so-called  Keformation,  and 
spoke  at  length  of  his  intolerance  and  fanatical 
bitterness  in  regard  to  the  Catholic  religion. 
When  the  unfortunate  and  pious  Mary,  then  wid- 
ow of  Francis  II.,  of  France,  arrived  in  Scotland 
to  reign  in  her  own  right,  she  caused  Mass  to  be 
celebrated  in  the  royal  chapel,  which  so  excited 
his  bitterness  that  he  rebuked  the  privy  council 
for  having  permitted  it,  and  openly  declared  in 
the  pulpit  that  one  Mass  was  more  frightful  to 
him  than  ten  thousand  enemies  who  might  land  in 
any  part  of  the  realm  ;  he  excited  the  Scottish 
people  to  revolt  against  their  queen  because  of 
her  religion  ;  and  religion  was  the  real  cause  of  her 
persecution  by  the  wicked  virgin  queen,  Elizabeth. 
When  Mary,  a  fugitive  from  Scotland,  decided  to 
seek  refuge  with  the  Queen  of  England,  her 
friends  in  vain  opposed  the  fatal  determination, 
recalling  to  her  mind  Elizabeth's  well  known  faith- 
lessness, and  the  assistance  she  had  given  to  the 


EXECUTION    OF   MARY.  55 

Scottish  rebels  ;  and  assuring  her  it  was  easy  to 
cross  to  France,  where  she  was  sure  of  assistance 
and  a  favorable  reception.  The  good  Archbishop 
of  St.  Andrews,  in  Edinburgh,  conjured  her  on 
his  knees  not  to  persist  in  the  project.  Lord 
Herries  and  others  joined  the  prelate  ;  but  Mary 
seemed  to  be  confident  of  protection  from  Queen 
Elizabeth.  She  soon  discovered  her  mistake : 
that  wicked  monster,  the  Yirgin  Queen,  never 
rested  until  she  had  brought  the  pious  and  inno- 
cent Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  to  the  scaffold,  not 
even  allowing  her  to  have  a  priest  to  administer 
the  consolations  of  religion  to  her  in  the  frightful 
dungeon  in  which  she  had  been  treacherously 
thrown  by  the  very  hand  from  which  she  had 
sought  protection  and  assistance,  expecting  a 
secure  asylum  from  her  persecutors  ;  nor  even 
upon  the  scaffold  was  she  allowed  a  priest  to 
administer  the  sacraments  of  the  Church,  and  to 
console  her  in  that  most  terrible  hour  of  trial,  but 
a  bigoted,  inveterate  Protestant  minister,  Fletch- 
er, Dean  of  Peterborough,  was  sent  her  by  Queen 
Elizabeth,  and  he  had  the  brutal  insolence  to  insult 
her  at  the  place  of  execution,  at  the  very  moment 
when  she  was  being  sacrificed  on  the  scaffold  to 
satisfy,  with  her  innocent  blood,  that  monster  of 
iniquity,  Queen  Elizabeth,  for  the  confession  and 
profession  of  that  Catholic  faith  which  England 
had  shamefully  deserted. \ 

Edinburgh  has  many  respectable  universities, 
the  medical  one  being  famous  all  over  the  world. 
The  city  is  well  laid  out,  with  many  interesting 


56      ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND. 

squares,  and  around  Calton  Hill  a  number  of 
walks  have  lately  been  laid  out  at  different  ele- 
vations, from  which  the  town  and  surrounding 
country  can  be  seen  to  great  advantage.  A 
promenade  has  also  been  made  on  the  still  great- 
er height  of  Salisbury,  from  which  the  view  is 
really  grand  and  imposing.  I  look  upon  this  city 
as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  I  have  seen  in  my 
travels,  and  one  which  I  shall  never  forget.  I 
regretted  much  that  though  the  monument  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  who  was  born  in  Edinburgh  in 
1771,  was  near  my  hotel,  I  was  not  able  to  walk 
often  around  it.  It  is  two  hundred  feet  high,  and 
has  two  hundred  and  eighty-seven  steps  leading  to 
the  top  of  the  gallery.  This  monument  is  adorned 
with  many  statues  ;  one,  large  and  of  white  marble 
representing  Sir  Walter  with  his  pet  dog  Bevis 
at  his  side,  is  placed  under  the  canopy.  I  visited 
the  fine  old  cathedral  dedicated  to  St.  Giles,  the 
patron  saint  of  Edinburgh  ;  it  is  built  in  the 
Gothic  style,  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  and  in  1446, 
when  formed  into  a  collegiate  church,  contained 
forty  altarsx 

My  first  intention  was  to  proceed  by  Aberdeen 
to  Inverness,  and  thence,  by  the  lakes  to  Ireland  ; 
but  as  this  would  have  occupied  more  time  than  I 
could  spare,  without  depriving  myself  of  the  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  Glasgow  and  the  Clyde,  famous  for 
their  ship-building,  I  went  to  Leith,  the  seaport 
of  Edinburgh,  and  the  most  important  naval  sta- 
tion on  the  east  of  Scotland,  one  mile  and  a  half 
from  Edinburgh,  where  many  monuments  and  his- 


GLASGOW.  57 

torical  reminiscences  meet  the  traveler.  I  took 
the  steamer  here  for  Stirling,  where  I  arrived 
about  dusk,  seeing  on  the  way  the  island  of  the 
rascal,  Cromwell ;  Wallace's  monument,  etc.  Not 
far  from  Stirling  are  the  beautiful  lakes,  or  lochs, 
Callander,  Katrine,  and  Lomond,  so  romantic  and 
charming,  all  accessible  now  by  rail,  while  a 
number  of  steamers  ply  upon  their  waters .\ 

I  arrived,  by  rail,  at  Glasgow  late  at  night, 
and,  finding  no  room  in  the  first  two  hotels  upon 
which  I  had  determined,  was  obliged  to  stop  at 
the  Cobden  Hotel.  Glasgow  is  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  in  Scotland ;  its  origin  is  generally  at- 
tributed to  St.  Mungo,  or  St.  Kentigern,  in  the 
year  500.  It  is  the  largest  city  in  Scotland,  and, 
in  commerce  and  population  ranks  as  third  in 
importance  in  Great  Britain.  It  has  over  four 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  It  was  the  cradle 
of  steam  navigation — the  first  steamer  in  Europe 
having  been  launched  in  the  Clyde,  in  1812,  by 
Henry  Bell,  of  Glasgow,  to  whom  a  fine  monu- 
ment has  been  raised.  Here  also,  in  1768,  John 
Watts,  born  in  the  city,  was  the  first  to  apply 
steam  as  a  motive  power  ;  and  he,  too,  has  a  fine 
monument  to  his  memory.  I  was  introduced,  by 
the  pastor  residing  in  Great  Clyde  street,  to  the 
Right  Rev.  John  Gray,  D.D.,  Bishop  of  Glasgow, 
whom  I  found  at  breakfast,  and  although  I  had 
already  breakfasted  at  the  hotel,  I  was  compelled 
to  repeat  the  performance  with  his  lordship,  a 
fine,  tall,  elderly  gentleman,  who  had  just  re- 
turned from  Rome,  where  he  had  attended  the  eel- 


58  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND   AND   IRELAND. 

ebration  of  the  Centenary  of  St.  Peter.  I  admired 
his  dignified  presence,  free  from  all  pretension, 
and  his  countenance,  beaming  with  piety  and  in- 
tellect ;  his  unostentatious  manners  and  frankness 
of  speech.  I  was  asked  why  I  had  not  come  direct- 
ly to  him  instead  of  going  to  a  hotel.  I  explained 
that  I  had  arrived  late  at  night.  He  invited 
me  to  remain  with  him.  I  thanked  him  for  his 
kind  hospitality  ;  but  I  had  made  arrangements 
to  take  the  steamer  for  Belfast  that  afternoon.  I 
accepted  his  invitation  to  dine  with  him,  and  he 
called  the  vicar  -  general,  whose  name  I  regret 
having  forgotten,  to  accompany  me  to  see  the  city, 
university,  museum,  etc.  The  vicar-general  was 
a  German,  apparently  quite  young,  well  edu- 
cated, and  amiable,  and  visited  with  me  the  most 
remarkable  parts  of  the  city.  The  greater  part 
of  Glasgow  is  built  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Cl}rde,  which  is  now  navigable,  even  for  very  large 
vessels,  as  far  as  the  city,  and  is  spanned  by  a 
number  of  fine  bridges.  The  city  did  not  impress 
me  very  favorably ;  but  the  university,  library, 
museum,  etc.,  have  a  great  reputation,  and  are 
well  worth  a  visit,  especially  as  they  contain 
some  very  rare  and  valuable  works  ;  but,  con- 
sidering they  are  obliged,  in  some  of  the  rooms, 
to  light  the  gas  at  noon,  and  to  have  fires  in 
August,  I  formed  the  opinion  that  the  climate  is 
not  over  and  above  pleasant.  The  walls,  stained 
with  smoke  from  the  foundries  and  factories, 
the  muddy  streets,  and  the  day  being  rainy,  I 
had  not  a  very  ardent  desire  to  remain  in  the 


BELFAST.  59 

city.  I  saw  the  old  cathedral,  which  is  magni- 
licent,  and  contains  many  monuments  of  anti- 
quity. We  returned  to  the  Bishop,  and  after 
dinner,  at  which  a  number  of  clergymen  were 
present,  I  took  leave  of  his  lordship,  promising, 
if  I  ever  again  visited  Glasgow,  that  I  would  make 
his  palace  iny  home./ 

I  took  the  steamer  for  Belfast,  and  enjoyed  a 
magnificent  sail  on  the  Clyde,  both  sides  of  which 
are  crowded  with  ship-yards.  The  hammering 
of  the  workmen,  constructing  iron  vessels,  can  be 
heard  for  miles  ;  while  blazing  furnaces,  wherein 
the  plates  for  iron-clads  are  constructed,  glared 
along  the  shore  for  a  long  distance  towards  Green- 
ock,  where  the  steamer  waited  for  over  two  hours, 
affording  me  an  opportunity  to  inspect  the  place. 
Greenock,  the  chief  seaport  of  Scotland,  is  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Clyde,  and  is  visited  by  vessels 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  It  has  a  great  num- 
ber of  immense  manufactories  for  nearly  every- 
thing ;  and  the  foundries  are  on  a  grand  scale. 
An  Irishman — watched  by  his  mother  and  sister 
and  two  policemen — was  forcibly  put  on  board 
here.  He  was  said  to  be  a  lunatic  ;  but,  as  I  saw 
a  bottle  of  whiskey  in  his  pocket,  I  concluded  he 
was  more  drunk  than  insane.  I  was  told  he  was 
a  schoolmaster.  He  endeavored  to  get  off  the 
boat,  but  was  prevented  by  the  police.  The  cap- 
tain of  the  steamer  could  do  very  little  with  him. 
He  shouted  out  several  times:  "My  passage  is 
paid !  My  passage  is  paid ! "  much  to  the  amuse- 
ment of  the  crowd.  When  the  steamer  was  start- 


60  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND    IRELAND. 

ing  from  the  wharf,  he  made  a  valedictory  address 
to  Scotland,  finishing  with  :  "  Good  bye,  land  of 
heroes !  Good  bye,  immortal  shores  of  a  great 
country !  land  of  great  men !  Good  bye,  people 
of  Scotland — descendants  of  heroes  !  conquerors 
of  the  world !  snakes  in  the  grass  !  children  of 
rascals !  scoundrels  !  robbers  ! "  and  so  on,  until 
we  were  out  of  sight  of  Greenock.  As  we  glided 
by  the  river  banks,  we  could  see  the  lights  from 
the  many  foundries  which  are  located  on  the 
western  coast  of  Scotland,  and  as  it  grew  dark,  it 
seemed  as  if  all  Scotland  was  illuminated,  and 
this  continued,  gradually  diminishing  and  vanish- 
ing, until  the  entire  coast  of  Scotland  vanished 
from  our  sight.\ 

The  man  supposed  to  be  insane  was  among  the 
deck  passengers,  and  now  said  he  was  an  ex- 
priest,  adding  several  things  which  hurt  the  many 
Irishmen  in  the  crowd.  His  behavior  was  dis- 
graceful. I  went  among  those  surrounding  him 
to  find  out  what  he  was.  I  asked  one  of  the 
crowd  if  it  was  really  believed  he  was  a  priest, 
and  was  answered  :  "  No  ;  he  is  an  Orangeman  !" 
And  so  it  proved ;  which,  the  others  discovering, 
he  was  treated  with  derision,  and  was  forced  to 
run  to  save  himself  from  violence.  I  presume 
all  the  Catholics  present  were  Irishmen,  and  were 
indignant  and  exasperated  by  this  Orange  school- 
master, who  was  passing  himself  off  as  a  priest  in 
order  to  abuse  the  Catholic  religion.  Orangemen 
is  the  name  given  by  Catholic  Irishmen  to  their 
Protestant  countrymen,  because  they  adhered  to 


BELFAST.  61 

the  House  of  Orange.  At  the  battle  of  the  Boyne, 
the  Catholics  fought  to  hold  Ireland  for  James  II., 
while  the  Protestants  stood  by  William,  Prince 
of  Orange.  The  latter  conquered ;  and  the 
Catholics,  were  exposed  to  the  most  cruel  perse- 
cution, besides  being  subjected  to  many  civil  and 
religious  disabilities ;  from  which  comes  the  in- 
tense hatred  Catholic  Irishmen  have  for  Orange- 
men. An  attempt  has  been  made  in  this  century 
to  revive  the  Orange  lodges. \ 

In  my  state -room,  I  made  a  calculation  con- 
cerning the  extent  of  my  travels,  by  which  I 
found  that  I  had  already  gone  several  days  be- 
yond the  time  I  had  allotted  for  the  cities  of 
Great  Britain,  so  I  decided  to  travel  quite  incog- 
nito, that  I  might  be  better  able  to  fulfill  my 
design,  fearing  to  be  deprived  of  some  more 
important  part  of  my  tour,  and  if  I  should  have 
any  time  to  spare,  I  would  rather  spend  it  among 
my  friends  and  relatives  in  Grallipolis.x 

We  entered  the  Bay  of  Belfast  early  in  the 
morning,  and  upon  landing  I  was  surprised  to  see 
a  fine  building  finished  in  the  Italian  style ;  it 
contains  the  offices  of  the  harbor  commissioners. 
It  has  a  grand  clock  tower,  and  the  whole  is  built 
of  cut  stone,  and,  as  I  afterwards  observed,  is  one 
of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  town.  Belfast  is  a 
noble  city,  built  on  the  bay,  or  lough,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  little  river  Lagan,  and  contains 
upwards  of  a  hundred  and  forty  thousand  inhabi- 
tants. It  has  a  cheerful  aspect  and  a  large 
foreign  trade.  As  I  did  not  intend  to  make  any 


62  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND    IRELAND. 

stay  in  Belfast,  I  left  my  baggage  at  the  depot 
and  looked  about  for  a  carriage  to  take  me  to  the 
other  depot,  where  I  wished  to  take  the  cars  to 
Downpatrick  to  visit  the  grave  of  St.  Patrick,  the 
Apostle  of  Ireland.  I  could  see  no  hack,  but 
they  brought  me  an  affair  on  two  wheels  of  a 
form  and  shape  such  as  I  had  never  seen  before; 
it  had  two  rows  of  boards,  looking  like  shelves, 
on  each  side,  without  a  cover ;  on  the  car  top 
there  was  only  one  board,  and  two  steps  on  each 
side,  so  that  the  top  one  was,  as  it  were,  the  plat- 
form, with  short  rails  on  each  side,  so  that  the 
whole  looked  to  me  like  the  steps  of  the  cars  in 
the  United  States,  only  on  a  somewhat  larger 
scale.  This  is  called  &  jaunting  car,  and  as  I  had 
never  seen  one  before,  I  had  no  idea  where  I  was 
to  sit.  I  took  the  boards  to  be  steps  and  climbed 
to  the  top.  The  driver,  who  sits  in  front  and  has 
the  best  seat,  looked  at  me  in  astonishment, 
saying  :  "  That's  not  the  place,  your  honor.'7  As 
I  supposed  them  to  be  only  steps  by  which  to 
reach  the  top,  I  was  more  surprised  than  he,  and 
tried  to  sit  by  him  in  front ;  but  he  turned  to  me 
in  amazement  as  if  I  were  intruding  upon  him, 
saying  that  it  was  his  seat  and  not  large  enough 
for  two.  "Then  where  am  I  to  sit  ? "  I  exclaimed ; 
he  pointed  to  the  shelves  or  steps  ;  down  I  went 
again,  and  sat  on  the  lower  step  where  my  feet 
nearly  touched  the  ground,  and  I  asked  if  that 
was  the  place  ;  he  again  gazed  at  me  in  wonder 
and  advised  me  to  sit  a  step  higher.  I  did  so, 
and  held  on  by  the  rails  with  both  hands,  fearing 


DOWNPATRICK.  63 

every  moment  I  should  be  made  to  kiss  the 
ground,  as  it  jolted  frightfully  over  the  paved 
streets.  We  arrived  at  the  station  at  last ;  I  gave 
the  driver  a  shilling,  and  said  to  myself,  I  never 
again  would  be  caught  in  an  affair  like  that.\ 

I  had  a  very  pleasant  ride  to  Downpatrick, 
where  I  went  to  see  the  church  built  by  St.  Patrick, 
for  which  I  paid  a  shilling  to  the  woman  who  kept 
the  key.  The  church  is  Gothic,  and  has  been 
nearly  re-built  by  the  Episcopalians.  I  asked 
the  woman,  a  Protestant,  if  St.  Patrick  was  a 
Protestant.  She  answered  "No;  a  Catholic.7' 
"  How.  then,  is  it,'7  said  I,  "  that  the  church  is  in 
the  hands  of  Protestants  ? "  "  They  took  it  from 
the  Catholics/7  she  replied.  "Then,77  I  said,  "it 
should  be  given  back  to  the  Catholics.77  "  If  they 
fight  for  it  they  will  get  it,77  she  answered.\ 

The  inside  of  the  church  is  plain.  I  saw  the  place 
where  the  altar  must  have  stood,  the  pulpit,  etc. 
Then  I  went  to  see  St.  Patrick7s  grave,  which  is 
close  to  the  church  in  the  cemetery,  now  used  by 
Protestants.  There  is  nothing  to  distinguish  the 
grave  of  Ireland7s  Apostle  ;  it  is  only  a  mound 
without  headstone  or  inscription,  not  so  much  as 
a  cross,  yet  every  body  knows  it,  and  the  path 
leading  to  it  from  the  road  is  kept  smooth  by  the 
frequent  visits  of  the  Irish,  who  go  thither  to  pray ; 
and  there  is  a  cavity  over  the  grave  made  by  the 
Irish  taking,  in  their  devotion,  away  the  earth  for 
a  memento.  I  could  not  but  think  what  a  magnif- 
icent monument  they  would  build  upon  the  grave 
of  their  Apostle,  were  they  but  allowed  to  do 


64  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND    IEELAND. 

so.  Still,  though  St.  Patrick's  grave  has  no  sign 
to  mark  it,  after  the  lapse  of  nearly  fifteen 
centuries,  many  of  them  passed  in  bitter  persecu- 
tion, in  a  part  of  Ireland  inhabited  by  Orangemen, 
every  one  in  Downpatrick,  and  thousands  else- 
where, can  point  out  the  spot.  It  is  shown  from 
generation  to  generation  by  tradition,  and  herein 
Protestants  have  before  their  eyes  a  certain  proof 
of  the  truth  and  reliability  of  tradition.  I  speak 
of  those  skeptical  Protestants  who  study  to  throw 
doubt  on  the  location  of  those  holy  places  marked 
out  by  the  pious  St.  Helen,  to  whom  they  were 
shown  by  the  Christians  of  her  day,  their  own 
knowledge  having  come  to  them  by  tradition. 
The  Christians  of  Egypt  and  Palestine  had  always 
a  veneration  for  those  sacred  places,  sanctified  by 
Our  Divine  Redeemer,  and  were  constantly 
pouring  forth  fervent  prayers  thereon.x 

Downpatrick  is  a  small  village  with  nothing- 
else  worth  seeing,  and  one  hour  suffices  for  a  visit 
to  St.  Patrick's  grave  and  Cathedral.  I  took  the 
next  train  back  to  Belfastx 

Having  seen  the  North  of  Ireland,  I  took  the 
cars  for  Armagh,  the  Metropolitan  See  of  Ireland, 
once  filled  by  St.  Patrick  himself.  This  city,  the 
capital  of  the  County  Armagh,  was  once  the 
metropolis  of  Ireland,  and  in  the  middle  ages  was 
a  city  of  great  learning  and  celebrity,  there 
being  at  one  time  over  seven  thousand  students 
at  the  college  ;  now  it  is  a  small  city  surround- 
ed by  rich  and  well  cultivated  fields,  and  is 
famous,  as  indeed  is  the  entire  county,  for  its 


ST.  PATRICK'S  WELL.  65 

linen  manufactures.  I  was  there  just  at  the  time 
of  the  harvesting  of  the  hemp.  I  was  met  at  the 
depot  by  Mrs.  Heyden,  an  old  acquaintance,  who, 
knowing  of  my  expected  visit  to  Ireland,  had 
been  constantly  watching  for  me,  and  had  already 
provided  a  carriage  and  a  room  at  the  hotel  for 
me.  I  saw  the  city  and  visited  the  new  Cathedral, 
which  is  a  fine  stone  edifice  built  on  an  eminence, 
from  which  there  is  a  grand  view  of  the  superb 
and  charming  country  surrounding^ 

I  saw  St.  Patrick's  Well,  around  which  are  a 
number  of  bushes  with  little  pieces  of  cloth  tied 
to  them,  the  meaning  of  which  I  asked,  and  was 
told  they  were  mementoes  from  the  people,  who 
had  been  cured  by  drinking  water  from  the  well. 
I  remained  but  a  day,  and  then  proceeded  to 
Dublin,  passing  through  Dundalk,  where  Edward 
Bruce,  brother  of  Robert,  was  crowned  King  of 
Ireland  ;  he  was  the  last  king  of  Ireland,  and 
Dundalk  was  the  last  city  in  Ireland  to  see  the 
crowning  of  a  monarch.  Twenty  miles  more  and 
I  arrived  at  Drogheda,  on  the  Boyne,  the  river 
famous  because  its  shores  were  the  battle  ground, 
where  the  forces  of  James  II.  fought  with  those  of 
his  son-in-law,  William  of  Orange,  in  July,  1690. 
James  ran  away  and  abandoned  the  field  even 
before  the  battle  was  decided,  and  then  threw 
the  blame  upon  the  Irish,  the  Prince  of  Orange 
becoming  conqueror.  Drogheda  is  one  of  the 
many  towns  which  experienced  the  rigor  of  the 
persecution  and  cruelty  of  Cromwell.  In  the 
merciless  campaign  of  1650  the  entire  garrison 


66  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND    IEELAND. 

and  a  large  number  of  the  inhabitants  having 
been  put  to  the  sword  after  a  successful  siege,  the 
brute  Cromwell  ordered  the  steeple  of  St.  Peter's 
Church,  in  which  a  hundred  of  the  people  had 
taken  refuge,  to  be  set  on  fire,  and  they  all 
perished  in  the  flames.\ 

After  thirty-two  miles  of  a  pleasant  railway 
journey  I  arrived  in  Dublin,  the  metropolis  of 
Ireland,  which  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Liffey,  a  mile  from  its  bay,  which  although 
large,  is  neither  safe  nor  convenient,  though  its 
faults  have  been  partially  removed  by  a  magnifi- 
cent stone  wall,  while  the  river  is  spanned  by 
seven  fine  stone  bridges.  The  city  has  a  popula- 
tion of  two  hundred  and  sixty  thousand,  in  its 
exterior  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  regularly 
built  cities  of  the  old  world,  and  is  distinguished 
for  the  large  number  of  its  fine  public  buildings, 
and  for  its  extensive  commerce  at  home  and  with 
foreign  countries.  I  saw  Dublin  Castle,  the 
official  residence  of  the  Lord  Lieutenant,  the 
Cathedral,  a  fine  building,  where  I  said  Mass  on 
Sunday,  the  elegant  monuments  raised  to  Ireland's 
great  liberator,  Daniel  O'Connell,  and  to  Nelson, 
the  obelisk  of  Wellington,  which  cost  a  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  the  house  in  which  Moore  was 
born,  and  the  residence  of  the  great  Irish  patriot, 
0 'Council.  The  cemetery,  in  which  are  the  tombs 
of  O'Connell  and  Curran,  the  famous  orator,  is 
laid  out  with  great  taste  and  is  visited  with  much 
interest ;  the  graves  in  it  are  every  day  decorated 
with  fresh  flowers  in  summer,  and  with  ever- 
greens in  winter.\ 


GALWAY.  67 

Early  in  the  afternoon  I  took  the  cars  for  the 
West  of  Ireland  and  crossed  the  Shannon,  the 
largest  river  in  Ireland,  famous  for  its  excellent 
salmon,  which  I  ate  even  in  Paris.  The  railroad 
passes  through  Mullingar,  a  well-built  town  with  a 
linen  factory,  and  Galway,  a  beautiful  city,  having 
a  good  harbor  and  an  extensive  commerce.  It  is 
also  noted  for  its  salmon  and  herring  fisheries. 
Hearing  that  the  Bishop  here,  to  whom  I  had  a 
letter  of  introduction,  had  not  yet  returned  from 
Rome,  I  continued  my  journey,  arriving  in  the 
evening  at  Killaruey,  a  small  town,  not  over  clean, 
with  nothing  worth  seeing  but  the  lakes,  called  by 
the  same  name,  which  are  beautiful  and  interest- 
ing, and  every  year  attract  numerous  visitors  from 
every  part  of  the  world.  I  saw  the  ruins  of  Agha- 
doe,  the  finest  in  Great  Britain,  McCarthy's  Island, 
the  former  owner  of  the  whole  County  of  Kerry, 
Muckross  Abbey,  etc.,  and  left  for  Blarney  by 
the  first  morning  train,  meeting  in  the  cars  with 
an  American  gentleman,  a  doctor  from  Cincinnati, 
who  having  made  a  tour  in  Italy,  was  now  visit- 
ing Ireland  on  his  way  home.  He  complained 
very  much  of  his  hotel  bill,  called  the  Irish 
robbers,  who  desired  to  live  without  working, 
and  so  on.  I  remarked  that  if  the  hotel  keeper 
had  overcharged  him,  the  Irish  people  had  nothing 
to  do  with  it,  and  that  my  bill  at  another  hotel  on 
the  same  lake  was  not  extortionate  ;  he  showed 
me  his ;  it  was  over  five  pounds  for  three  days  ; 
it  included  boating,  guides,  etc.,  but  I  thought 
myself  it  was  too  much.\ 


68  ENGLAND,   SCOTLAND   AND   IEELAND. 

I  saw  Blarney,  a  small  town  famous  for  its 
castle,  Blarney  Castle,  long  the  residence  of  the 
royal  race  of  the  McCarthys,  and  especially  now 
on  account  of  the  Blarney  Stone,  which  is  supposed 
to  endow  every  one  who  kisses  it,  with  a  peculiar 
soft,  persuasive,  wheedling  eloquence  that  is  irre- 
sistible. I  here  met  with  two  very  agreeable 
American  gentlemen  and  it  was  settled  between 
us,  that  we  should  traverse  the  rest  of  Ireland  in 
company.  I  held  a  second  class  ticket,  they  a  third 
class,  for  they  had  judged,  with  truth,  that  in 
Great  Britain  the  third  class  is  about  as  good  as 
the  second,  and  I  tried  to  have  mine  exchanged, 
but  I  was  refused  •  however,  as  I  was  not  will- 
ing to  lose  their  society,  I  travelled  in  a  third  class 
car  on  a  second  class  ticket.  We  passed  through 
the  large,  industrial  City  of  Limerick,  where  there 
is  a  beautiful  Cathedral,  through  Tipperary,  which 
is  old,  uninteresting  and  decaying,  and  soon  were 
in  Cork.\ 

Cork  is  a  fine  old  city  of  over  one  hundred 
thousand  inhabitants,  second  in  commerce  in 
Ireland  ;  it  was  formerly  built  on  an  island, 
formed  in  the  river  Lee,  but  now  spreads  for  some 
distance  over  the  river  bank,  connected  by  nine 
stone  bridges.  It  has  two  good  churches,  and  a 
stately  Cathedral,  while  the  exterior  of  the  public 
buildings,  as  a  general  thing,  is  quite  plain  ;  but 
the  market  house,  custom  house  and  town  house 
are  good.  I  was  present  at  the  butter  market 
and  very  much  admired  the  exactness  of  the 
officers  in  branding  the  different  qualities  of 


ENGLAND    AGAIN.  69 

butter  for  export,  and  was  much  amused  at  the 
contention  among  the  owners,  when  dissatisfied 
with  the  decision  of  the  officer.  In  the  afternoon 
I  was  on  the  other  side  of  the  Lee,  and  dropped 
into  an  eating  house  for  dinner,  and  had  some 
beefsteak  so  good  that  it  really  did  credit  to  Cork  ; 
the  landlord  asked  me  if  I  would  like  some 
"potheen,"  which,  supposing  it  to  be  some  par- 
ticular kind  of  local  food,  some  fish,  perhaps,  from 
the  Lee,  I  accepted.  A  waiter  brought  me  a  decan- 
ter and  a  wine  glass  on  a  tray  and  I  asked  him  if 
it  contained  wine,  "It  is  potheen,"  he  answered 
I  tasted  it,  but  as  it  was  too  strong  for  me  I  sent 
it  back.\ 

I  took  passage  in  a  steamer  for  Bristol,  a  dirty, 
inconvenient  affair,  loaded  with  cattle  for  England, 
and  fit  only  for  cattle,  many  of  these  even  being 
found  dead  from  suffocation,  when  taken  out  at 
Bristol.  This  was  at  the  time  of  the  Fenian  troubles 
in  Ireland,  and  passengers  from  America  were 
closely  watched  by  the  police,  and  often  im- 
prisoned, and  I  had  been  warned  by  my  friends 
in  England,  and  even  advised  by  some  not  to 
attempt  to  visit  the  South  of  Ireland,  but  I  said  I 
was  not  afraid.  A  police  officer  now  came  on 
board  the  steamer,  and  put  a  number  of  questions 
to  me,  the  meaning  of  which  I  understood  well 
enough  ;  I  answered,  candidly  and  without  reserve, 
all  his  questions  :  The  object  of  my  journey,  my 
native  country,  etc.,  for  it  seems  I  had  been 
watched  by  the  police  ;  but  he  finally  left  after 
shaking  hands  with  me,  and  the  boat  steamed  into 


70      ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND  AND  IRELAND. 

the  spacious  and  beautiful  harbor  of  Cork,  called 
formerly  the  Cove  of  Cork,  but  now  Queenstown 
in  memory  of  the  visit  of  Queen  Victoria,  who 
landed  here  on  her  visit  to  Ireland  in  1849. 
The  sail  to  Queenstown  is  really  charming ;  the 
steamer  stopped  at  the  wharf  and  another  police- 
man came  on  board,  drew  a  paper  from  his 
pocket,  and  coming  to  me  propounded  some  other 
questions  of  about  the  same  nature  as  those  put 
to  me  at  Cork.  I  at  once  suspected  he  had  been 
telegraphed  from  Cork  to  see  if  I  had  spoken  the 
truth  •  he  wrote  down  my  answers  and  left.  Now 
I  recollected  that  two  Irishmen  had  been  taken 
prisoners  near  Cork,  having  been  accused  of 
Fenianism  ;  they  were  in  the  same  car  with  me 
under  the  guard  of  two  policemen,  and  this 
probably  was  the  cause  of  the  suspicion  with 
which  I  was  regarded  A 

On  board  the  steamer  were  two  Irish  priests 
who  were  going  to  London  and  thence  to  Paris, 
to  see  the  Exposition,  and  we  travelled,  as  far  as 
London,  together.  The  next  day  we  saw  the 
Southern  coast  of  Wales  from  which  the  eldest 
son  of  the  King  of  England  receives  his  title  ;  it 
is  a  mountainous  country  with  wild  and  romantic 
scenery,  with  delightful  valleys,  numerous  lakes, 
and  several  navigable  rivers.  The  common  Welsh 
peasantry  still  retain  many  peculiar  customs  and 
superstitions,  speaking  in  many  parts  of  the 
country  their  own  national  language,  and  wear- 
ing a  peculiar  dress.  I  saw  some  Welsh  women 
with  a  sort  of  mitre  on  their  heads,  quite  long 


BRISTOL  —  BATH.  Yl 

and  ending  at  the  top  in  the  shape  of  a  cone. 
We  arrived  about  noon  at  Bristol,  where  there  is 
now  a  very  convenient  harbor,  in  which  merchant 
ships  of  any  burden  can  float,  which  is  due  to  the 
extensive  works  and  the  opening  of  a  new  channel 
for  the  Avon,  to  prevent  the  flowing  and  ebbing  of 
the  tide.  Bristol,  called  by  the  Britons  Caer- 
Brito,  and  by  the  Saxons  Briglitstowe  or  pleasant 
place,  is  the  third  commercial  city  in  England.  It 
lies  chiefly  on  the  north  bank  of  the  lower  Avon  ; 
its  buildings  are  fine  and  rich  in  appearance  ; 
they  are  built  with  gardens  and  terraces,  one 
above  the  other,  resembling  an  amphitheatre. 
Sebastian  Cabot,  who  discovered  Newfoundland, 
was  born  here  in  1499.\ 

On  our  way  to  London  we  passed  through  a  rich 
and  well  cultivated  country,  through  Clifton,  a 
beautiful  place,  a  mile  from  Bristol,  known  for  its 
hot  springs,  and  stopped  for  a  short  time  at  Bath, 
said  to  be  the  most  elegant  city  in  England,  cele- 
brated for  its  medicinal  waters,  the  variety  of  its 
amusements,  the  elegance  of  its  streets,  and  the 
magnificence  of  its  public  buildings.  It  has  borne 
various  names  in  different  ages,  all  however,  con- 
taining allusion  to  its  famous  waters,  the  Eomans 
called  it  Aquce  Solis,  Fontes  Calidi,  Thermce,  Boto- 
nia,  and  Bathonia  ;  the  Britons,  Caer  Badun,  or 
Bladon  ;  the  Saxons,  Hat  Bathun  and  Achaman- 
num  ;  there  are  numerous  Roman  vestiges  to  be 
found  in  it.  We  stopped,  also,  at  Reading,  a  fine, 
regularly  laid  out  town,  and  then  made  our  way  to 
London.  At  Bath  a  Protestant  minister  who  had  no 


72      ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND  AND  IEELAND. 

ticket  nor  any  change  to  buy  one,  entered  our  car, 
and  offered  a  five  pound  note,  which  was  refused, 
but  he  was  allowed  to  ride  and  pay  at  the  end  of 
the  journey.  He  said  he  was  professor  in  a  college 
on  the  route  to  London ;  he  tried  at  several  sta- 
tions along  the  road  to  get  the  bill  changed,  but  no 
one  wished  to  do  it,  giving  the  common  excuse  of 
having  no  change.  Hearing  that  I  intended  to 
make  some  stay  in  London,  he  directed  me  to  a 
certain  boarding-house,  kept  by  a  woman,  his 
intimate  friend,  and  gave  me  a  written  address,  a 
reference  and  a  message.  He  left  us  at  Reading, 
and  the  Irish  priests  with  whom  I  was  travelling, 
advised  me  not  to  stay  at  the  place  he  had  recom- 
mended.x 

We  arrived  at  Kensington  depot  about  ten 
o'clock,  p.  M.,  I  bade  good  bye  to  my  Irish  friends, 
and  drove  to  the  Cathedral  Hotel  close  to  the  fa- 
mous St.  Paul.  I  had  a  good  supper  but  an  incon- 
venient room  on  the  street  side,  and  could  not 
sleep  on  account  of  the  incessant  noise  of  the  carts 
and  carriages  passing,  but  the  next  day  my  room 
was  changed  for  a  better  one,  in  a  fine  locatiou.x 

I  do  not  intend  here  to  give  a  description  of 
London  ;  it  would  fill  many  pages  and  that  is  no 
part  of  my  object,  and  it  can,  besides,  be  found  in 
many  books  and  guides.  To  say  nothing  would, 
however,  be  doing  the  city  injustice,  so  I 
will  mention  a  few  observations  which  I  made 
during  my  short  stay  there.  London,  the 
metropolis  of  the  United  Kingdom  and  the 
wealthiest  city  in  the  world,  one  of  the  cleanest 


LONDON.  73 

and  best  governed,  contains  three  millions  of  in- 
habitants, and  is  remarkable  for  the  business  air 
every  where  observable  in  it.  The  city  proper 
is  small  in  proportion  to  the  rest,  and  is  built  on 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Thames,  but  that,  which 
goes  by  the  name  of  London,  lies  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  which  is  crossed  by  a  number  of  bridges, 
the  principal  of  which  are  the  London,  Hunger- 
ford,  Yauxhall,  Blackfriar's,  Westminster  Bridge, 
etc.  The  city  covers  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  square  miles,  and  is  eight  miles  long  by  six 
wide.  Although  forty -five  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  its  seaport,  lying  between  Blackwall 
and  London  Bridge,  is  extensive,  deep  and  safe, 
and  its  docks  cover  more  than  one  hundred 
acres.  It  was  an  ancient  Eoman  colony,  but  no 
vestiges  remain  of  the  walls  by  which  the  Eomans 
surrounded  it.  Although  London  is  more  a  small 
world  than  a  large  city,  the  stranger  easily  finds 
his  way  in  it,  as  the  Thames  runs  through 
the  city,  and  the  principal  streets  run  parallel 
with  it,  still  I  was  obliged  to  procure  a  local  map 
for  my  own  guidance.  The  streets  are  regular, 
wide,  clean,  and  well  paved,  the  houses  plain  and 
substantial,  the  public  buildings  made  more  for 
use  and  convenience  than  for  ornament.  The 
first  day  of  my  stay  I  went  to  the  Union  Bank  in 
which  I  had  letters  of  credit.  They  asked  for  my 
signature,  which  I  gave,  they  compared  it  with  the 
one  kept  at  the  bank,  and  I  drew  money  enough  to 
carry  me  to  Paris.  I  visited  the  Bank  of  Eng- 
land, several  of  the  numerous  Parks,  and  especially 


74  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND   IRELAND. 

Hyde  Park,  which  covers  four  hundred  acres,  the 
Kegent/s  Park,  the  Zoological  Gardens,  considered 
to  contain  a  larger  collection  of  animals  than  any 
other  city.  I  have  never  seen  a  greater  variety, 
and  a  more  complete  collection  of  birds.  I  spent 
many  hours  there  in  company  with  another  travel- 
ler. I  visited  several  museums,  the  Crystal 
Palace,  in  which  I  spent  an  entire  day,  and  it  is 
well  worth  a  visit  from  any  traveller ;  the  day 
was  rainy  and  unpleasant,  but  about  the  time 
when  the  fountains  were  to  play,  the  weather 
cleared  up  and  the  display  of  the  water  works 
was  beautiful.x 

On  Sunday  I  said  Mass  in  a  church  near  St. 
Paul's,  and  received  a  kind  invitation  to  breakfast 
with  its  pastor,  which  I  accepted,  but  I  was  unable 
to  dine  with  him,  as  he  wished.   He  was  a  Belgian, 
with  two  curates  under  him,  kind  and  intelligent ; 
the  church  is  rather  small  and  poor,  but  clean 
and  respectable.     I  visited  St.  Paul's  Cathedral, 
a  magnificent  building  on  the  summit  of  Ludgate 
Hill,  commenced  in  1672  and   finished  in  1710, 
built  of  Portland  stone  at  a  cost  of  six  millions  of 
dollars.    Every  attempt  to  repair  the  old  Gothic 
Cathedral,  built  on  the  same  spot  by  Ethelbert 
in  604,  and  burnt  in  the  great  fire  of  1660,  having 
failed,  every  trace  of  it  was  removed   and  the 
new  foundation  laid  for  the  present  church,  which 
is  built  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  five  hundred 
feet  long  and  two  hundred  and  forty-seven  wide 
in  the  transept .    The  interior  is  divided  by  rows 
of  pillars   into  nave   and   side  aisles;  the  west 


ST.  PAUL'S.  75 

towers  are  two  hundred  and  twenty-two  feet  high, 
and  the  top  of  the  cross  four  hundred  and  four 
feet  from  the  level  of  the  church  yard.  On  the 
south  front  of  the  church  is  a  phoenix  rising  from 
the  flames,  with  the  motto  :  RESURGAM,  (I  shall  rise 
again).  Its  lofty  dome  may  be  seen  for  miles,  its 
magnificent,  deep-toned  bell,  which  is  only  tolled 
on  the  death  of  some  member  of  the  royal  family, 
or  the  Lord  -Mayor  of  London,  the  Protestant 
Bishop  of  London,  and  the  Dean  of  the  Cathedral, 
but  strikes  the  hours,  is  heard  far  out  of  the  city  ; 
this  bell  is  ten  feet  in  diameter  and  weighs  four 
and  a  half  tons.  The  portico  is  well  decorated 
with  Corinthian  pillars,  but  the  interior  ornamen- 
tation of  the  church  does  not  correspond  with  its 
exterior  magnificence.  Nelson,  Wellington,  Sir 
Christopher  Wren,  the  architect,  and  several 
others  are  buried  here  and  have  fine  monuments 
erected  to  their  memory.  There  are  three  services 
daily,  on  Sundays  and  on  week  days.  \ 

The  net  work  of  underground  railways  is 
admirable  ;  the  stations  are  reached  by  rather 
long  stairways,  and  one  can  go  from  one  extremity 
of  the  city  to  the  other,  always  under  ground 
through  a  tunnel.  The  lines  are  very  numerous 
and  lead  to  many  parts  of  London.  I  have 
travelled  by  them  several  times,  but  found  them 
dark  and  damp.  I  understand  that  the  officers 
have  to  be  changed  quite  often  for  fear  of  losing 
their  eyesight.  The  tunnel  under  the  Thames  is 
a  masterpiece  of  workmanship,  which  I  visited 
with  great  pleasure,  but  stood  aghast  before  this 


6  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND   IEELAND. 

colossal  and  wondrous  enterprise  of  architectural 
daring,  a  breakage  under  the  river  would  sweep 
me  away  like  a  piece  of  straw.  \ 

One  morning  I  was  crossing  the  famous  London 
Bridge  to  go  on  board  a  steamer,  that  I  might 
enjoy  a  view  of  the  Thames,  and  watched  the  im- 
mense crowd  of  men,  women,  carriages,  omnibus- 
es, carts  drawn  by  fine,  large,  English  horses,  or 
mules,  ponderous  wagons,  heavily  laden,  dragged 
some   by  single  horses   and   some   by  donkeys, 
crossing  the  bridge,  which  appeared  packed  with 
them  ;  some  seemed  groaning  under  a  ponderous 
over-load  ;  others  would  hit  against  each  other ; 
a  horse  overpowered  by  the  heavy'wagon  he  was 
dragging,  would  fall  under  it ;  donkeys,  unable 
to   drag  their  heavy  carts,  were   being  helped 
along  by  pulling  and  pushing,  yet  there  was  no 
confusion,  no  swearing  and  cursing,  «no  shouting. 
A  policeman  was  helping  the  driver  of  the  fallen 
horse  to  raise  the  animal,  while  others  were  di- 
recting the  omnibuses  and  carriages  in  order  to 
avoid  entanglement.     The  order  and  regularity 
of  the  London  police  is   admirable.     I  was  one 
day  in  an  omnibus  which  stopped  near  the  side- 
walk ;  an  officer  called  the  driver  and  took  his 
name  and  number  j  the  man  tried  to  excuse  him- 
self by  saying  he  only  stopped  to  let  out  passen- 
gers, but  it  was  of  no  use.     I  asked  some  of  the 
passengers  who  this  officer  was  ;  "A  time-keep- 
er," I  was   answered.     "What  is   that?"  I  in- 
quired.   They  told  me  it  was  an  officer  whose 
duty  it  was  to  see  that  each  omnibus  should  go 


WESTMINSTER   ABBEY.  77 

f 

to  the  end  of  its  route,  and  during  the  route 
should  stop  only  to  take  up  and  let  out  passen- 
gers ;  the  duration  of  this  stop  is  limited,  and  the 
driver  had  exceeded  his  time./ 

The  steamboat  left  me  near  the  House  of  Par- 
liament, which  fronts  for  nine  hundred  feet  on  the 
river  ;  the  fare  on  the  boat  was  one  penny.  The 
exterior  of  the  Parliament  House  is  grand  and 
imposing  ;  it  is  a  Gothic  structure,  made  of  Ab- 
erdeen granite,  erected  at  a  cost  of  eight  millions, 
on  the  site  of  the  old  house,  which  was  burnt  in 
1834.  I  did  not  spend  much  time  in  its  vicinity, 
as  I  was  anxious  to  see  the  famous  Westminster 
Abbey,  which  would  be  closed  at  six  o'clock  in 
the  evening.  This  abbey  is  famous  in  the  history 
of  England  ;  the  existence  of  Westminster  itself, 
a  city  of  Middlesex  county,  is  due  to  the  founda- 
tion of  the  abbey.  In  1259,  Henry  III.  granted 
to  the  abbot  and  convent  of  Westminster  Abbey, 
a  fair  and  a  market,  from  which  originated  the 
city  and  privileges  of  Westminster.  It  now  con- 
tains the  seat  of  government,  the  residence  of  roy- 
alty, and  is  the  centre  of  fashion,  although  Queen 
Victoria  prefers  to  reside  in  the  magnificent 
Buckingham  Palace,  where  she  has  lived  since 
1837.  Westminster  is  now  united  with  London. 
Its  church  was  commenced  by  King  Sebert  in  610, 
and  rebuilt  by  Edward  the  Confessor  in  1066,  and 
many  additions  were  afterwards  made  to  it.  It 
is  a  Gothic  building,  in  the  shape  of  a  Latin  cross, 
the  nave  two  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet  long 
and  ninety-six  wide.  The  kings  of  England  are 
5 


78  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND    IKELAND. 

1 

crowned  in  its  choir,  but  the  coronation  feasts  are 
held  in  the  celebrated  Westminster  Hall,  which 
exceeds  in  dimensions  any  room  in  Europe,  being 
two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  long,  ninety  feet 
high,  and  seventy-four  wide,  unsupported  by  pil- 
lars, and  built  lay  William  II.  in  1097.  Members 
of  the  royal  family,  as  also  personages'  of  great 
distinction,  are  buried  in  the  abbey,  and  many 
rich  and  interesting  monuments  are  thus  gathered 
here,  among  which  I  saw  a  very  beautiful  one 
erected  over  the  tomb  of  the  unfortunate  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots.  Milton's  monument  represents 
his  bust,  with  a  lyre  entwined  with  a  serpent 
holding  an  apple  ;  the  full-length  statue  of 
Shakespeare,  leaning  against  a  pillar,  is  beautiful. 
Addison,  Sheridan,  Michael  Drayton,  etc.,  are 
interred  here,  and  have  magnificent  monuments. 
Handel,  the  immortal  author  of  the  oratorio  of 
the  Messiah,  is  commemorated  by  a  life-sized 
statue,  ornamented  by  an  organ  and  a  scroll  of 
music.  Near  the  abbey  stood  the  sanctuary 
which,  in  olden  times,  was  used  as  a  refuge  for 
criminals.  There  are  services  in  the  chapel 
twice  daily  throughout  the  year.N 

The  next  day  I  went  to  the  post-office  to  mail 
letters  for  Italy  and  America,  then  took  the  un- 
derground railroad  for  Bow,  to  visit  the  lunatic 
asylum  of  Grove  Hall,  a  fine  building  and  a  well- 
conducted  establishment,  in  which  only  soldiers 
are  received.  I  was  now  growing  very  anxious 
to  leave  London  for  Paris  to  see  the  Exposition, 
but  desired  first  to  visit  the  famous  Tower  of  Lon- 


THE   TOWER   OF   LONDON.  79 

don.  I  arrived  too  late  ;  I  spoke  to  a  warden, 
who,  dressed  as  a  yeoman  of  Henry  the  Eighth's 
time,  was  sitting  on  a  stone  wall  in  the  yard,  appar- 
ently almost  tired  to  death.  I  asked  him  if  I 
could  see  the  Tower  ;  he  said,  "It  is  too  late  ; 
you  must  come  to-morrow."  I  told  him  that  I 
intended  to  start  for  France  to-morrow,  and 
wished  he  could  show  me  the  tower  now ;  he 
answered,  in  the  regular  John  Bull  style:  "I 
would  n't  do  it,  not  even  for  Queen  Victoria !"  I 
saw  there  was  no  use  in  persisting  further,  so  I 
turned  my  back  on  him  and  left,  employing  the 
remainder  of  the  day  in  visiting  museums  con- 
taining statues./ 

The  next  day  I  returned,  and  found  that  a 
party,  not  considered  sufficiently  large  to  be 
shown  the  tower,  it  being  necessary  to  have  a 
party,  was  waiting  for  an  addition.  On  my  arri- 
val the  warden,  dressed  in  the  same  style  of 
Henry  the  Eighth's  time,  said  we  could  now  go. 
I  purchased  a  ticket  for  a  shilling,  and  went  with 
the  party,  which  amounted  to  about  a  dozen.  / 

This  famous  tower  was  commenced  by  Julius 
Caesar,  and  finished  by  William  I.,  and  is  gov- 
erned by  the  Constable  of  the  Tower,  who  at  cor- 
onations and  other  state  ceremonies  has  charge 
of  the  regalia.  It  is  situated  at  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  city,  separated  from  the  thickly- 
settled  portion  of  the  city  by  Tower  Hill,  from 
the  Thames  by  a  ditch,  and  covers  twelve  acres. 
On  the  south  side  is  an  arch  called  the  Traitors' 
Gate,  through  which  state-prisoners  were  for- 


80  ENGLAND,    SCOTLAND    AND   IEELAND. 

merly  conveyed  in  boats  after  their  trial ;  near 
the  Traitors'  Gate  are  the  Bloody  Tower,  where 
Eichard  III.  murdered  his  nephews,  the  bar- 
racks, armory,  jewel  house,  white  tower,  and 
many  other  towers  and  buildings.  This  was 
used  as  a  royal  residence  by  the  kings  of  Eng- 
land until  the  time  of  Elizabeth.  We  passed  into 
the  Church  of  St.  Peter  in  Vinculis,  which  is  the 
depository  of  the  headless  bodies  of  numerous 
illustrious  personages,  who  suffered  either  in  the 
Tower  or  on  the  Hill ;  among  these  are  Anne 
Boleyn,  the  Fishers,  Thomas  Cromwell,  etc.  / 

The  White  Tower  contains  the  armory,  the 
Chapel  of  St.  John,  and  the  model  room,  wherein 
are  models  of  fortifications,  to  which  last,  however, 
strangers  are  not  admitted.  I  saw  the  horse- 
armory,  containing  suits  of  armor  of  almost  every 
description,  the  effigies  of  English  kings  on  horse- 
back, armed  cajp  a  pie,  and  the  Spanish  armory, 
where  we  were  shown  a  representation  of  Queen 
Elizabeth  in  armor,  and  the  axe  which  severed 
the  head  of  Anne  Boleyn,  and  visited  Beauchamp 
Tower,  famous  as  the  prison  of  the  ill-fated  Anne 
Boleyn  ;  saw  the  church,  etc.,  and  were  then 
consigned  to  the  care  of  a  woman  to  be  shown 
the  jewels.  The  jewel-office  is  a  strong  stone 
room,  in  which  the  crown  jewels,  or  regalia,  are 
kept,  comprising  the  imperial  crown,  and  other 
emblems  of  royalty,  such  as  the  golden  orb,  the 
golden  sceptre  and  its  cross,  the  sceptre  with  the 
dove,  St.  Edward's  staff,  state  salt-cellar,  curtana 
or  sword  of  mercy,  golden  spurs,  armilla  or  brace- 


THE   TOWER   OF   LONDON.  81 

lets,  ampulla  or  golden  eagle,  and  the  golden 
spoon,  as  also  the  silver  font  used  at  the  baptisms 
of  the  royal  family,  the  state  crown  worn  by  His 
Majesty  in  parliament,  and  a  large  collection  of 
ancient  plate./ 


CHAPTER  III. 

FRANCE. 

DEPARTURE   FROM   ENGLAND STEAMER   BETWEEN   NEW  HAVEN  AND    DIEPPE 

FRANCE  DIEPPE  —  NORMANDY  ROUEN  NANTES  PARIS CHUECH 

OF    ST.    8ULP1CE  APPLICATION    TO     THE     SOCIETY   FOR   THE     PROPAGATION 

OF  THE  FAITH  TO  ASSIST  THE  INDIAN    MISSIONS    OF  THE    ETCHEMIN  TRIBES 

FATHER  NYCOLIN  THE    EXHIBITION  NOTRE   DAME THE    LOUVRE  AND 

TUILERIES  HOTEL  DE8  INVALIDE8 LA  MADELEINE.\ 

\  I  selected  the  New  Haven  and  Dieppe  line  on 
account  of  its  being  the  most  picturesque  route 
to  Paris.  I  left  London  on  Saturday  morning, 
passed  through  a  delightful  country  and  many 
small  towns,  and  in  a  short  time  was  in  New 
Haven,  and  although  I  travelled  as  a  second- 
class  passenger,  yet  for  the  steamer  I  had  a 
first-class  ticket.  New  Haven  is  a  small  sea-port 
of  .not  much  importance.  The  steamboat  was 
none  of  the  cleanest,  nor  was  it  over  conve- 
nient. At  noon,  as  we  left  the  English  shore, 
and  entered  the  channel,  so  well  known  for  the 
heavy  seas  which  strike  the  boat  on  the  side,  and 
pour  over  the  deck,  we  were  obliged  to  retire  to 
the  cabin,  and  the  heavy  rolling  of  the  ship  from 
side  to  side  made  me  very  sea-sick,  as  it  did  the 
greater  part  of  the  passengers.  I  laid  on  a  sofa, 
from  which  I  did  not  rise  until  we  were  in  sight  of 

(82) 


DIEPPE.  83 

Dieppe.  I  did  not  suffer  as  much  in  crossing 
the  ocean  as  in  crossing  the  short  channel  be- 
tween England  and  France.  I  was  so  sick 
that  in  several  instances  I  was  forced  to  spit 
blood.  Although  I  had  a  special  first-class 
ticket  for  the  boat,  for  which  I  had  paid  in 
London  the  difference  of  half  a  crown,  the  cap- 
tain made  me  pay  the  difference  again,  and  I 
was  too  sick  to  contest  the  point,  When  we 
arrived  at  Dieppe,  I  desired  something  better 
for  my  weak  body  than  a  visit  to  the  agent  in 
regard  to  this  imposition,  but  when  returning, 
a  year  later,  by  the  same  route,  with  a  second- 
class  ticket  from  Paris  to  Liverpool,  and  a  special 
first-class  ticket  for  the  steamer,  the  captain 
played  the  same  trick  upon  me.  I  complained 
of  it,  on  our  arrival  at  New  Haven,  to  the  agent 
of  the  line,  who  went  on  board  the  boat,  repri- 
manded the  captain,  and  returned  me  the  money 
with  the  thanks  of  the  Company. \ 

At  Dieppe  our  baggage  was  examined  in  a  very 
courteous  manner.  We  entered  the  large  dining 
room  of  the  Hotel  de  Londres,  where  the  table 
was  set,  and  dinner  ready.  The  setting  of  the 
table  filled  me  at  once  with  pleasure  and  new 
life.  I  saw  at  once  the  manners  and  customs  of 
the  continent,  for  the  first  time  in  twenty-three 
years.  The  everlasting  tea  and  coffee  with  the 
bowl  of  milk  which  torment  the  table  of  the  puri- 
tanic New  Englander,  were  not  visible  ;  the 
biscuits  instead  of  bread,  the  preserved  sweet- 
meats, the  cakes  and  innumerable  side  dishes 


84  FRANCE. 

amounting  to  nothing,  had  disappeared  ;  the  ham, 
the  leg  of  mutton,  the  roast  beef  and  plum-pud- 
ding of  England  were  gone  ;  no  notice  in  large 
letters  of  "  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL"  disfigured  the 
entrance  of  the  dining-room,  as  in  England  and 
Scotland  ;  no  fanatical  Maine  Liquor  Law  pre- 
scribed what  should  be  eaten  and  drank,  as  in 
puritan  New  England.  The  table  was  provided 
with  a  variety  of  luxuries,  meats,  fish,  vegetables 
and  fruits  according  to  the  European  continental 
custom.  Each  place  was  furnished  with  a  loaf 
of  excellent  bread,  a  bottle  of  wine,  and  a  dish 
for  soup.  Coffee  and  tea  can  be  had  if  desired, 
and  each  person  pays  for  what  he  orders  and  no 
more.  I  took  a  plate  of  soup  which  was  excellent, 
a  small  loaf  of  bread,  some  grapes  and  a  bottle 
of  wine,  at  an  expense  of  one  franc.x 

Dieppe  is  a  picturesque  city  of  over  nine- 
teen thousand  inhabitants,  with  an  easily  acces- 
sible harbor ;  it  is  the  nearest  watering  place  to 
Paris.  In  Dieppe  I  changed  some  sovereigns 
into  napoleons  and  a  few  small  coins.  Early  in 
the  afternoon  we  left  for  Rouen,  passing  through 
Normandy  where  I  saw  many  of  the  original 
Norman  costumes,  which  are  still  preserved  in 
the  country  between  Dieppe  and  Rouen  ;  the 
land  is  not  rich,  and  appeared  to  me  in  many 
places  poor  and  barren.  We  arrived  in  the  after- 
noon at  Rouen,  the  ancient  capital  of  Normandy, 
the  Rotomagus  of  the  Romans  ;  a  badly  built 
city,  of  wood  mostly,  with  dark  and  narrow 
streets,  lying  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine 


ROUEN.  85 

which  is  here  crossed  by  two  bridges.  It  has  a 
population  of  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  ranks  in  commerce,  wealth  and  population  as 
the  fifth  city  in  France.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
rich  and  well  cultivated  country.  At  this  point 
the  Seine  is  very  wide,  and  the  quays  along  the 
river  are  quite  handsome.  The  city  contains 
many  Norman  and  Eoman  antiquities  ;  the  Ab- 
bey Church  of  St.  George  Bocherville,  now  the 
parish  chapel  of  a  small  village,  is  the  finest 
specimen  of  Norman  architecture  on  the  conti- 
nent. The  Cathedral,  containing  many  fine  sculp- 
tures, is  a  grand  specimen  of  the  Gothic  style. 
The  Church  of  St.  Ouen,  one  of  the  first  Arch- 
bishops of  Rouen,  in  the  seventh  century,  is  one 
of  the  noblest  and  most  perfect  Gothic  edifices 
in  the  world,  its  interior  being  four  hundred  and 
forty-three  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  high,  the 
central  tower  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high. 
Rouen  still  bears  the  mark  of  the  barbarous  van- 
dalism of  the  Huguenot  rabble  of  the  sixteenth 
century.\ 

The  Normans  are  noted  for  their  talent  and 
shrewdness,  and  a  number  of  distinguished 
men  have  been  born  in  Rouen ;  as  Peter  and 
Thomas  Corneille,  Natalis  Alexandre,  etc.  The 
Church  of  St.  Maclou  is  famous  for  its  magnifi- 
cent front,  the  carved  stone  of  which  is  made  to 
resemble  lace.  The  Place  de  la  Pucelle  is  re- 
nowned as  the  spot  where  Joan  of  Arc  was 
burned  at  the  stake;  a  monument  erected  to 
her  memory  marks  the  ground  on  which  she 


86  FRANCE. 

suffered,  and  stands  an  everlasting  reproach  and 
disgrace  to  the  English,  and  a  mark  of  infamy  to 
the  Inquisition  and  the  Archbishop  of  Rouen, 
who  ordered  her  ashes  to  be  cast  into  the  Seine.\ 

We  next  visited  Nantes,  so  well-known  as  the 
scene  of  such  butcheries  during  the  Revolution, 
which  is  a  finely  built,  regularly  laid  out  city  of 
about  ninety  thousand  inhabitants,  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Loire  and  Erdre,  and  one  of  the 
best  and  most  pleasing  cities  of  France.  It  has  a 
beautiful  Cathedral,  which  contains  the  tombs  of 
the  Dukes  of  Bretagne,  who  had  their  residence 
at  Nantes,  the  metropolis  of  Brittany.  Bretagne, 
or  Brittany,  received  its  name  from  the  Britons 
who,  driven  from  England,  took  refuge  here  in 
the  fifth  century.  The  people  speak  a  Celtic 
dialect ;  they  have  also  a  patois  called  Lueaclie, 
of  which  the  words  are  principally  Greek.  The 
lower  classes  are  very  poor  and  ignorant.  The 
Castle  of  Nantes,  a  marvellous  edifice  flanked  by 
bastions,  is  famous  as  the  place  wherein  Henry 
IY.  signed  the  Edict  of  Nantes  giving  protection 
to  the  Protestants  ;  it  was  also  .the  prison  of 
Cardinal  de  Retz,  who  escaped  from  it  by  letting 
himself  into  the  Loire  with  a  rope.v 

I  arrived  at  Paris  during  the  night,  my  bag- 
gage was  again  examined,  and  I  took  a  hack  and 
drove  to  the  Hotel  des  Missions  Etrangers  in  the 
Hue  du  Bac,  which  had  been  recommended  to  me 
by  some  of  my  American  friends  ;  it  was  dirty,  un- 
comfortable and  expensive.  The  driver  charged 
me  as  much  as  if  I  had  ordered  a  carriage  from 


PARIS.  87 

the  stable,  so  I  referred  the  matter  to  the  hotel- 
keeper  to  settle,  and  it  was  decided  against  me  ; 
I  was  too  tired  to  contend  abont  a  matter  of  one 
franc.  The  police  were  on  the  alert  at  this  point, 
as  the  city  was  full  of  strangers  on  account  of  the 
Exhibition,  and  the  drivers  were  taking  every  ad- 
vantage they  could.  In  Paris  I  have  often  seen 
the  police  interfering  between  strangers  and 
drivers,  rescuing  the  former  from  the  impositions 
of  the  latter.  The  driver  said  that  the  carriage 
was  ordered  at  the  stable  ;  if  so,  I  was  imposed 
upon  by  the  officer  who  ordered  the  carriage  for 
me  at  the  depot,  or  by  both.l 

At  the  hotel  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  intro- 
duced to  the  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem,  who  had 
a  room  near  mine  at  the  same  hotel,  and  also  to 
his  Secretary,  Rev.  Jerome  Demetriades,  a  native 
of  Cons  tan  tinople.\ 

This,  the  capital  of  France,  and  the  second  city 
in  Europe,  is  the  Lutetia  Parisiorum  of  the  time 
of  Julius  Csesar.  Parisii  was  the  name  of  a  wan- 
dering tribe  which  had  settled  on  the  banks  of 
the  Seine ;  the  lie  de  la  Cite  was  a  sort  of 
stronghold  to  which  they  retired  with  their  flocks 
when  attacked  by  the  neighboring  tribes,  and  was 
thus  called  Lutetia  (Dwelling  of  the  Waters,  or  of 
mire.)  Although  Paris  has  a  population  of  two 
millions,  the  stream  of  life  in  the  great  streets,  the 
crowd  of  wagons  and  carriages  is  not  so  great  as 
in  London.  The  city  lies  east  and  west,  with  a 
circumference  of  fifteen  miles,  but  the  environs  of 
Paris  are  not  like  those  of  London.  Instead  of 


88  FRANCE. 

the  gardens,  parks  and  country  villas  which  sur- 
round London,  you  see  large  tracts  of  unclosed 
corn  fields  standing  in  the  suburbs  of  Paris.  The 
finest  approach  to  Paris  is  by  the  Saint  Germain, 
a  broad,  straight  road,  lined  with  lofty  buildings.\ 

The  next  day  I  called  on  Mr.  Monroe,  who  was 
so  kind  as  to  take  care  of  my  letters  and  papers 
during  my  travels,  forwarding  them  to  my  address. 
I  found  letters  from  America  and  from  my  brother 
in  Italy,  and  arranged  my  correspondence  and 
monetary  affairs  for  my  tour  and  pilgrimage.  On 
Tuesday  I  went  to  the  Church  of  Saint  Sulpice, 
and  admired  its  magnificent  portico,  composed  of 
a  double  row  of  Doric  columns,  forty  feet  high, 
its  towers  surmounting  the  edifice,  one  at  the 
height  of  two  hundred  and  ten  feet,  and  the  other 
one  hundred  and  seventy-four  ;  on  the  highest  is 
the  telegraph  connecting  with  Strasburg,  and  on 
the  southern  tower  that  communicating  with 
Italy.  In  the  centre  of  the  Place  de  Saint  Sulpice 
is  a  splendid  fountain,  considered  one  of  the  finest 
in  Paris.  It  is  called  the  Fountain  of  Saint  Sul- 
pice, and  was  erected  by  order  of  Napoleon  I.  \ 

On  Sunday  I  said  Mass  in  the  Church  of 
Saint  Sulpice,  ranked  among  the  best  churches 
of  Paris.  This  church  was  commenced  in  1645 
and  finished  a  century  later  ;  it  is  four  hundred 
and  thirty-two  feet  long,  one  hundred  and  sev- 
enty-four wide,  and  ninety-five  feet  high,  has 
twenty-two  chapels,  the  principal  of  which  is 
the  chapel  of  Our  Lady,  and  contains  some  fine 
paintings.  A  meridian  line  has  been  traced  on 


INDIAN   MISSIONS.  89 

the  pavement  of  the  transept,  and  continued  by 
an  obelisk  of  white  marble,  to  fix  the  spring 
equinox.  The  organ  in  this  church  is  considered 
the  finest  in  Paris.  I  did  not  hear  much  of  it, 
because  a  sermon  commenced  and  was  delivered 
with  great  energy.  It  surprised  me  very  much  to 
see  that,  during  the  sermon,  several  Masses  were 
being  celebrated  in  the  chapels,  which  naturally 
occasioned  some  confusion  among  the  people,  and 
limited  the  audience,  j 

One  of  my  objects  in  visiting  Europe  was  to 
endeavor  to  make  some  arrangements  with  the 
Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Faith  in  Paris, 
which  is  a  branch  of  that  in  Lyons,  with  which  it 
is  connected,  by  which  some  annuity  could  be 
obtained  for  the  support  of  my  Indian  Missions. 
I  went  to  the  office,  No.  34  Rue  Cassette,  and  had 
an  interview  with  the  president,  whose  name  I 
have  forgotten,  explaining  to  him  the  way  in 
which  these  Etchemin  Indian  missions  were  first 
established  by  France,  and  were  for  many  years 
supported  by  the  liberality  of  the  Marquise  de 
Guercheville,  but  are  now  left  to  themselves. \ 

Since  the  death  of  the  saintly  Father  Edmond 
Demilier,  on  the  18th  of  July,  1843,  there  was  no 
resident  missionary  among  the  Passamaquoddy 
tribe  at  Pleasant  Point,  and  since  the  removal,  on 
account  of  his  venerable  age,  of  the  late  Father 
Samuel  Barber  from  the  Penobscot  tribe  at  Old- 
town,  no  stationary  missionary  was  among  these. 
The  Jesuit  Fathers  at  Georgetown,  D.  C.,  were 
requested  by  Bishop  Fitzpatrick,  of  Boston,  whose 


90  FRANCE. 

diocese  then  included  that,  which  forms  now  the 
diocese  of  Portland,  to  take  charge  of  those 
Indian  Missions,  and  he  also  gave  them  those  of 
the  white  people  east  of  the  Penobscot,  as  a  means 
for  their  support.  Yery  Rev.  John  Bapst,  Rev. 
John  Moore,  and  a  few  others  of  the  same  Society, 
resided  for  some  time  among  the  Penobscot 
Indians ;  while  Rev.  Ba'sil  Pacciarini,  and  Rev. 
Kenneth  A.  Kennedy,  of  the  same  Society,  made 
their  home  at  Eastport,  whence  they  attended 
the  Passamaquoddy  Indians  at  Pleasant  Point, 
Calais,  and  the  Schoodic  Lakes.  Bishop  Fitz- 
patrick,  perceiving  with  pleasure  the  flourishing 
condition  of  the  missions,  and  the  immense  spiritual 
benefit  resulting  to  the  people  from  the  labors  of 
the  indefatigable  Jesuit  Fathers,  gave  into  their 
charge  Bangor,  and  all  the  missions  west  of  the 
Penobscot,  as  far  as  Rockland  and  Water ville. 
The  Penobscot  Indians  were  then  regularly  at- 
tended from  Bangor,  and  the  Passamaquoddy 
from  Eastport,  two  or  three  Jesuit  Fathers  resid- 
ing at  each  of  these  towns.  Father  Bapst  with 
the  aid  of  his  assistants,  built  several  churches, 
and  freed  them  from  debt,  and  the  Bishop 
directed  him  to  build  a  church  in  Bangor,  which 
should  be  given  to  the  Jesuit  Fathers  as  their 
headquarters  for  the  Eastern  Mission  of  Maine,\ 

The  new  Bishop  of  Portland  took  away  from 
the  Jesuit  Fathers  not  only  the  greater  part 
of  these  missions,  but  even  the  church  built  by 
Father  Bapst  in  Bangor,  promising  him  per- 
mission to  build  another  in  the  same  city,  after 


INDIAN   MISSIONS.  91 

paying  the  balance  of  the  debt  of  the  completed 
church  which  was  only  seventeen  thousand  dollars. 
This  offer  was  de.clined  by  the  Jesuit  Fathers,  and 
they  withdrew  from  Maine  which  had  been  ever 
since  its  discovery  the  field  of  their  labors.  The 
Passamaquoddy  and  Lewis  Island  Indians  were 
occasionally  visited  by  the  zealous  Father  Matthew 
Murphy,  while  the  good  Father  Carraher  went 
at  intervals  to  the  Penobscot  Indians.  / 

I  had  received  a  number  of  letters  concerning 
the  condition  in  which  the  Indians  were  thus 
placed,  and  as  I  was  the  only  priest  acquainted 
with  their  language,  having  resided  formerly  many 
years  among  them,  I  decided  to  return  to  them. 
The  need,  at  that  time,  of  priests,  and  the  lack 
of  appropriations  for  the  support  of  these  mis- 
sions, obliged  me  to  take  the  residence  at  Bidde- 
ford,  whence  I  occasionally  visited  them,  expect- 
ing some  day  there  would  be  provision  made  for 
a  resident  missionary  among  them,  when  the 
Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Faith  would 
give  them  an  annuity  as  had  been  promised.\ 

I  explained,  moreover,  that  the  Reverend 
Matthew  Murphy,*  an  earnest  and  indefatigable 

\*  This  indefatigable  missionary,  Rev.  Matthew  Murphy,  died  on 
the  22d  of  March,  1870,  at  the  age  of  forty  years.  His  first  mission 
•was  Portland,  where  he  was  ordained,  and  he  was  afterwards  sent  to 
Bangor,  where  he  was  of  great  assistance  to  Rev.  J.  Bapst  in  building 
St.  John's  Church.  After  the  removal  of  Father  Bapst,  and  with  him 
of  the  Jesuit  Fathers  from  Maine,  Father  Murphy  was  sent  still 
further  East,  to  take  charge  of  the  missions  on  the  extreme  Eastern 
frontiers  of  the  country.  He  took  his  residence  at  Eastport,  from 
which  place  he  attended  all  the  Catholics  scattered  through  the  wild 
and  unsettled  County  of  Washington,  where  there  are  no  other 


92  FRANCE. 

missionary,  was  doing  what  he  could  for  the  poor 
Indians  of  Lewis  Island,  but  his  mission  of  Calais 
was  too  poor  to  afford  him  the  means  of  support- 
ing the  Indian  Mission  on  the  Schoodic  Lakes ; 
and  the  same  is  the  case  with  the  pastor  of  East- 
port,  in  regard  to  the  Indians  at  Pleasant  Point ; 
while  the  learned  and  venerable  Father  John  B. 
Nycolin,  of  Oldtown,  had  several  times  en- 
dangered his  life  in  crossing  the  river  on  the  ice 
in  the  winter,  and  at  other  seasons,  in  a  canoe,  to 
attend  the  Penobscot  Indians,  he,  too,  finding  his 
means  inadequate  for  the  support  of  the  Penobscot 
Mission.  Three  churches  have  to  be  kept  in 
repair  and  provided  with  proper  vestments  ;  a 
missionary  independent  of  all  other  missions 

means  of  conveyance  except  stages,  some  of  which  are  nothing  else 
but  mud-boxes.  He  built  a  church  at  Pembroke,  and  cleared  it  of  debt, 
notwithstanding  the  scanty  means  which  these  small  and  poor  mis- 
sions could  afford.  One  day  in  the  winter  he  was  obliged  to  go  to  Pem- 
broke in  a  boat,  to  attend  a  sick-call,  it  being  impossible  to  go  by  land, 
on  account  of  the  immense  snow-drifts,  in  which  he  had  broken  his 
sleigh  while  attempting  to  open  a  track  in  the  deep  snow.  In  endeav- 
oring to  land  on  the  ice-bound  shore,  he  stepped  on  a  loose  cake  of  ice, 
and  plunged  into  the  sea ;  and  although  he  was  rescued  immediately, 
he  got  all  wet,  and  his  water-soaked  clothes  froze  on  him.  This  accident 
caused  to  him  a  general  palsy,  that  rendered  him  unfit  to  attend  any 
mission.  Another  priest  was  provided  for  the  missions,  and  he,  help- 
less and  penniless,  was  thrown  on  the  charity  of  the  people.  Mrs. 
Dunn,  of  Pembroke,  a  convert  to  the  Catholic  Church,  took  him  to 
her  house,  where  he  stopped  and  was  nursed  for  more  than  one  year, 
and  owing  to  the  attentive  assistance  of  this  truly  charitable  lady,  he 
rallied  a  little,  and  was  assigned  to  the  Mission  of  Calais.  He  lingered 
for  a  few  years  more  but  died  from  the  effects  of  this  accident.  Not- 
withstanding his  poverty  and  bad  health,  he  enlarged  and  improved 
the  Church  of  Calais,  purchasing  a  residence  for  the  priest,  and  rendered 
other  improvements  and  left  no  debts.  He  died  extremely  poor  and 
destitute  even  of  the  necessaries  of  life.  His  death  was  much  re- 
gretted by  both  Catholics  and  Protestants.  May  his  soul  rest  in  peace  !  \ 


FATHER   NYCOLIN.  93 

should  be  given  them,  but  the  Indians  are  too 
poor  to  maintain  a  missionary.  The  late  Father 
Demilier  was  supported  by  the  Society  for  the 
Propagation  of  Faith,  while  the  good  Bishop 
Fenwick  supported  the  Penobscot  Indians  ;  at 
present  no  one  contributes  a  cent  towards  their 
maintenance,  f 

The  President  approved  all  that  I  said,  and 
answered  that  he  had  every  year  sent  money  to 
the  Bishop  of  Portland,  supposing  it,  or,  at  least, 
a  part  of  it,  would  be  appropriated  for  theuse  of 
the  Indian  Mission,  and  that  he  would  write  to 
the   bishop   for  that  purpose,  as  it  was  one  of 
their  rules  that  the  money  for  missions  should  be 
sent  only  to  the  bishops,  and  to  no  other  persons  ; 
the  bishop  would  then  distribute  it  among  the 
missions.     This  was  all  the  conclusion  arrived  at./ 
The  kind  reader  will  allow  me  to  digress  a  lit- 
tle in  order  to  say  a  few  words,  as  a  tribute  of 
respect  towards  the  learned  and  zealous  Mission- 
ary alluded  to  above,  my  dear  and  sincere  friend, 
the  Eev.  John  Baptist  Nycolin,  whose  departure 
from  this  to  a  better  life  was  notified  to  me  by  a 
telegraphic  dispatch,  while  I  was  writing  these 
lines.  \ 

Father  Nycolin  was  born  in  France  of  very 
respectable  parents,  who  carefully  provided  him 
with  a  thorough  classical  education  under  the  best 
professors.  His  superior  talents,  his  great  en- 
ergy, his  mind  raised  to  the  grand  and  sublime, 
decided  him  for  a  military  career,  and  having 
received  many  honorary  degrees  in  several 
6 


94  FRANCE. 

branches,  among  which  was  that  of  doctor  of 
medicine,  he  joined  the  army  of  his  country  and 
filled  a  high  position  in  it,  and  also  took  a  prom- 
inent part  in  politics  ;  but,  soon  becoming  dis- 
gusted with  the  world,  he  resolved  to  abandon 
the  army  and  Become  a  soldier  of  Christ.  He 
entered  the  seminary,  where  he  studied  dogmatic 
and  moral  theology,  canon  law,  ecclesiastical  his- 
tory, the  Sacred  Scriptures,  etc.,  was  ordained 
priest,  and  occupied  a  distinguished  position 
among  the  clergy  of  France  ;  but  anxious  to  spend 
the  remainder  of  his  life  in  foreign  missions,  ho 
came  to  America,  was  received  into  the  diocese 
<tf  Portland,  and  sent  to  Waterville.  He  worked 
for  several  years,  and  endured  many  hardships 
in  this  mission.  His  means  being  very  limited, 
he  lived  in  poverty  ;  yet  out  of  his  own  funds  he 
improved  the  church,  upon  which  he  spent  sev- 
eral hundred  dollars.  He  was  removed  from 
this  mission  and  sent  to  that  at  Oldtown,  where 
he  labored  with  the  same  zeal  and  noble  exam- 
ple. With  apostolic  courage  he  denounced  vice 
and  infidelity,  gave  no  quarter  to  scandals 
and  evil  conduct,  broke  up  nests  of  iniquity, 
banished  infidelity  and  profanity,  and  reformed 
the  morals  of  his  people  j  his  irreproachable 
life  formed  the  manners  of  his  parishioners. 
He  was  a  learned  man  and  a  perfect  gentleman, 
a  kind  and  sincere  friend,  a  truly  honest  man  : 
he  detested  flattery,  hated  Machiavellism,  and 
every  thing  low  and  mean ;  he  loved  honesty 
and  truth.  Humble,  pious,  devoted  to  prayer, 


FATHER   NYCOLIN.  95 

he  spent  many  hours   of  the  day  and   night  in 
intercourse  with  God.\ 

With  some  money  which  he  had  brought 
from  France,  he  purchased  a  house,  which  he 
designed  for  the  pastoral  residence,  and  a  lot 
on  which  to  build  a  church.  His  mission  being 
small  and  poor,  could  hardly  afford  him  the 
necessary  means  of  subsistence,  and  he  lived 
very  scantily  upon  one  meal  a  day ;  from  that 
which  he  struggled  to  save,  he  bought  materials 
for  the  erection  of  a  church,  procured  church 
vestments,  altar  linen,  and  repaired  the  vest- 
ments of  the  Indian  church  and  provided  it 
with  candles  :  he  supported  widows  and  orphans, 
took  care  of  the  poor,  practiced  hospitality  with 
great  liberality  and  charity,  and  avoided  every 
occasion  of  show  and  ostentation  ;  he  served  God, 
not  the  world,  and  desired  that  God  only  should 
witness  his  good  deeds  ;  he  patiently  and  perse- 
veringly  instructed  the  children  and  the  igno- 
rant ;  ever  at  his  post,  he  avoided  all  useless 
visiting,  and,  like  St.  Paul,  did  not  disdain  to 
devote  some  of  his  leisure  hours  to  manual  labor. \ 

In  the  last  years  of  his  life  he  had  a  heavy 
trial,  which  he  bore  with  patience  and  resigna- 
tion, but  which  accelerated  his  death  ;  he  decided 
to  leave  the  diocese  and  sell  his  property  ;  he 
destroyed  the  will  he  had  made,  and  designated 
the  place  in  which  he  would  spend  the  remainder 
of  his  days  ;  but  God  had  ordained  that  he  should 
die  in  that  part  of  His  vineyard  in  which  he  had 
faithfully  labored  and  borne  the  heat  and  burden 


96  FRANCE. 

of  the  clay.  An  old  disease  laid  him  on  his  death- 
bed, where  he  made  his  last  will,  in  substance 
like  the  previous  one,  received  the  last  sacra- 
ments with  great  resignation  and  fervor,  and 
died  the  death  of  the  just,  at  Oldtown,  June 
20th,  1869.  After  his  death  the  appearance  of 
his  remains  attested  that  sanctity  he  had  ever 
labored  to  conceal.x 

My  other  object  in  visiting  Paris  at  this  time 
was  to  see  the  Exposition,  and  to  this  purpose  I 
devoted  several  days.  In  this  Exhibition  was 
gathered  in  one  place  every  thing  grand  and 
sublime  the  nations  of  the  earth  could  produce. 
The  highest  works  of  art  and  of  science  of  every 
land,  the  luxuries  of  wealth  in  rich  furniture, 
costly  ornaments  of  gold,  silver,  precious  stones, 
and  garments,  were  here  shown  ;  the  skill  of  man, 
civilized  and  barbaric,  taxed  to  its  utmost,  had 
sent  its  master-pieces  to  be  seen  here  ;  the  works 
of  the  Laplander,  the  Esquimaux,  and  others  of 
the  frigid  zone  ;  of  the  Abyssinian,  the  Ethiopian, 
and  other  tribes  dwelling  under  the  burning  sun, 
were  alike  visible  here  ;  the  products  of  nature 
in  the  mineral,  vegetable,  and  animal  kingdom, 
of  every  variety,  were  here  ;  in  the  park  we 
could  study  the  formation  of  corals,  the  growth 
of  water-plants ;  the  breeding  and  habits  of 
fish  j  there  were  artificial  rivers,  springs,  ponds 
and  lakes,  with  glass  in  front  through  which  we 
could  see  the  bottom  of  the  deep,  rocks,  sea-grass, 
among  which  fish  of  various  kinds  were  play- 
ing, swimming,  feeding,  etc.,  fresh  water  being 


THE   EXHIBITION.  97 

supplied  to  them  by  artificial  conductors  ;  suffice 
it  to  say,  that  after  seeing  the  Paris  Exhibition 
I  no  longer  cared  to  see  other  museums,  works 
of  art,  etc.,  in  any  other  part  of  the  world  ;  for  I 
expected  to  see  there  nothing  new,  nothing  supe- 
rior to  that  which  I  had  already  seen,  as  many 
master-pieces  of  art  belonging  to  other  museums, 
public  and  private,  had  been  sent  here  from 
every  nation,  unless  there  should  be  left  some- 
thing really  worth  visiting.  I  do  not  pretend  to 
give  a  description  of  the  world-renowned  Paris 
Exposition,  I  will  present  merely  a  sketch  of 
the  building  and  the  park./ 

The  ground  of  the  Exhibition  is  the  Champ  de 
Mars,  close  to  the  famous  Hotel  des  Invalides.\ 

The  palace  is  a  vast  rectangle  extended  on 
two  of  its  faces  by  two  half-circles,  which  at  first 
sight  gives  it  the  appearance  of  an  elongated 
rotunda.  Its  plan  is  a  complete  chess  board 
with  corners  rounded,  no  upper  stories,  no  raised 
galleries.  In  the  'centre  is  the  garden,  filled 
with  rare  flowers,  and  refreshing  fountains  ;  the 
walks,  whether  straight  or  winding,  are  of  exactly 
the  same  length ;  these  alleys,  whichever  one  is 
chosen,  traverse  the  circular  gallery,  giving  an 
extensive  survey  of  the  whole  series  of  produc- 
tions exhibited.  If,  on  the  contrary,  you  prefer  to 
study  corresponding  productions  of  all  countries, 
instead  of  the  diversity  in  any  one  country,  you 
abandon  the  transverse  alleys,  and  follow  the 
circular  gallery  which  encircles  the  palace  in 
different  directions. \ 


98  FRANCE. 

The  classification  harmonizes  with  the  design 
of  the  building ;  as  already  stated  each  circular 
gallery  through  the  entire  circuit  of  the  building, 
is   devoted    to   one    group,  and    the   tranverse 
galleries  which  cut   across  the   circular  ones,  to 
the  different  varieties  of  the  same   production, 
arranged  in  classes.     This  will  be  better  under- 
stood by  a  list  of  groups  and  classes  : 
GROUP  1st.     "Works  of  art,  classes  1  to  15. 
GROUP  2d.     Materials  for,  and  application  of  the 

liberal  arts  ;  history  of  industry,   classes 

6  to  15. 
GROUP  3d.     Furniture    and    other    articles    for 

dwellings,  classes  14  to  26. 
GROUP  4th.    Clothing,    comprising     fabrics    and 

articles  worn  as  dress,  classes  27  to  30. 
GROUP  5th.   Eaw  and  manufactured   productions 

of  extractive  industry,  classes  40  to  46. 
GROUP  6th.    Instruments   and   processes   of   the 

common  arts,  classes  47  to  66. 
GROUP  7th.    Food,  fresh  and  preserved  in  various 

phases  of  preparation,  classes  67  to  73. 
GROUP  8th.    Live    productions    and    specimens 

from   agricultural   establishments,  classes 

74  to  82. 
GROUP  9th.    Living  productions   and  specimens 

from  horticultural  establishments,  classes 

83  to  88. 

GROUP  10th.     Articles   exhibited  expressly  in- 
tended for  the  amelioration  of  the  physical 

and  moral  condition  of  the  people,  classes 

89  to  95.\ 


THE    EXHIBITION.  99 

The  park  was  necessary  to  prevent  obstruction 
at  the  hour  of  closing,  and  so  to  detain  the  crowd 
as  to  admit  of  their  gradual  dispersion.  It  covers 
a  surface  about  twice  that  of  the  palace  which  it 
surrounds  on  all  sides.  Two  broad  walks,  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  two  galleries,  cut  across  each 
other  at  right  angles  from  the  palace,  and  divide 
the  park  into  four  parts.  The  park  is  separated 
into  two  distinct  zones  by  a  broad  alley  which 
encircles  the  palace  ;  in  the  first  zone  are  the 
generators  or  boilers,  the  second  is  reserved 
more  especially  for  agricultural  and  horticultural 
display.  These  zones  form  the  eighth  and  ninth 
groups  in  the  general  system  of  classification  ; 
here  are  seen  model  farms,  farm  buildings,  and 
other  rural  establishments  in  perfect  working 
order.  Musicians  from  every  civilized  and  bar- 
barous nation  were  there  giving  exhibitions  of  na- 
tional music  and  dancing  ;  Chinese,  Japanese  and 
others  had  national  houses  built  in  the  park,  fur- 
nished and  occupied  by  the  people  whose  native 
homes  they  represented  ;  performing  their  public 
and  domestic  duties,  while  school  houses  of  many 
nations  had  been  either  imported  or  built  there, 
and  furnished  according  to  their  custom  ;  soldiers' 
camps  of  various  styles,  and  soldiers'  utensils, 
etc.  Before  concluding  I  may  remark  that  Italy 
was  well  represented  in  every  branch,  and  ap- 
preciated by  the  visitors  ;  I  observed  the  room  ap- 
propriated to  it  was  always  crowded  by  strangers. 
In  the  Italian  quarter  of  the  park  wrhere  I  stopped 
several  times,  I  noticed  that  when  refreshments 


100  FRANCE. 

were  ordered  they  were  sent  from  a  building 
near  the  saloon,  by  a  miniature  railway,  in  cars 
worked  by  wires  ;  the  Italian  musicians  per- 
formed on  several  harps  and  other  instruments. 
The  United  States  was  also  well  represented,  but 
I  believe  the  articles  on  exhibition  were  not 
arranged  to  advantage  ;  an  opinion  shared  by 
many  Americans  with  whom  I  conversed  on  the 
subject.  I  was  attracted  by  a  written  notice 
in  the  park  :  "American  iced  drink"  I  ordered 
some,  and  it  proved  to  be  iced  milk  with  sugar, 
and  plenty  of  water,  and  cost  half  a  franc,  but  it 
was  very  refreshing.  England  and  other  coun- 
tries had  sent  at  government  expense  different 
classes  of  mechanics  to  examine  the  exhibition. 
I  was  much  amused  in  listening  to  a  conversation 
in  French,  by  a  group  of  people  examining  a  fog- 
trumpet,  or  horn,  from  the  United  States  ;  they 
were  wondering  how  the  Americans  could  play 
on  such  a  big  musical  instrument ;  but  they  felt 
satisfied,  when  I  explained  to  them,  that  it  was 
only  a  fog  instrument  worked  by  steam.  \ 

Having  seen  the  Exposition,  of  which  I  could 
never  tire,  but  to  which  I  c&uld  give  no  more 
time,  I  went  to  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame. 
This  great  Parisian  monument  was  commenced 
in  1160,  the  corner  stone  being  laid  by  Pope 
Alexander  III.,  at  that  time  taking  refuge  in 
France.  It  is  a  Gothic  church,  three  hundred 
and  ninety  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and  forty- 
four  feet  wide  ;  the  towers  are  two  hundred  and 
four  feet  high  ;  in  the  southern  tower  is  the  famous 


THE   LOUVRE.  101 

bell  "  Bourdon"  and  others  of  smaller  dimensions  ; 
the  towers  have  no  spire  and  the  view  from  them 
is  splendid.  This  cathedral  has  four  rows  of  pil- 
lars, fifty-four  chapels,  and  a  great  number  of  cel- 
ebrated paintings  and  monuments.  In  the  after- 
noon of  certain  days,  during  the  Exhibition,  there 
was  a  display  in  the  vestry  of  all  the  sacred 
vessels,  vestments,  regalia  and  other  rich  arti- 
cles, either  gifts  of  kings,  or  that  had  been  worn 
or  used  by  eminent  personages ;  they  were 
shown  and  explained  to  a  crowd  of  spectators, 
who  obtained  admission  into  the  vestry  upon  the 
payment  of  one  franc  for  a  ticket.  The  high  altar 
is  grand  and  imposing ;  behind  it  is  the  famous 
marble  group,  the  "Descent  from  the  Cross." 
The  roof  is  covered  with  lead  weighing  four 
hundred  thousand  pounds.  The  Louvre  is  the 
old  residence  of  the  kings  of  France  ;  the  origin 
of  its  name  and  the  date  of  its  commencement 
are  unknown  ;  it  was  continued  and  completed 
at  different  periods  ;  Henry  II.  laid  the  founda- 
tion of  the  splendid  gallery  by  which  it  is  con- 
nected, on  the  south  side,  with  the  Tuileries,  the 
present  residence  of  the  royal  family  of  France  ; 
the  connection  of  these  two  grand  buildings  is 
now  nearly  completed,  and  it  forms  one  of  the 
grandest  palaces  in  the  world.  The  exterior  of 
the  Tuileries  is  deficient  in  harmony,  having 
been  built  at  different  periods,  but  the  interior  is 
splendid ;  the  spot  on  which  it  is  built  was 
formerly  used  for  manufacturing  tiles,  hence  the 
name  Tuilerie.  The  galleries,  museums,  and 


102  FRANCE. 

monuments  of  the  two  buildings,  now  one,  are 
very  valuable  ;  at  this  time  many  of  them  were 
at  the  Exposition.  The  gardens  are  splendidly 
laid  out  and  cared  for.  I  walked  several  times 
by  daylight  and  by  moonlight  in  the  enchanting 
Elysian  Fields,  the  favorite  resort  of  the  aristo- 
cracy, and  of  all  classes  at  all  times  ;  on  Sundays, 
after  church,  the  working  people  gather  here  for 
innocent  amusement ;  I  saw  no  rowdyism,  no 
disturbance,  no  drunkenness  ;  they  walked,  or 
played  among  the  numerous  fountains,  statues, 
and  around  the  celebrated  Arc  de  TriompJie  de 
VEtoile.  In  company  with  many  visitors  I  saw 
the  Hotel  des  Invalides,  a  vast  and  superb  build- 
ing, founded  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1670,  as  a  home 
at  the  nation's  expense  for  the  worn-out  soldiers 
of  France  ;  it  is  well  kept,  clean  and  comfortable, 
has  four  refectories,  three  appropriated  to  non- 
commissioned officers  and  privates,  and  one  to 
officers,  all  frescoed,  and  a  number  of  kitch- 
ens, the  principal  one,  a  grand  affair,  a  glow- 
ing furnace,  busy  cooks,  and  regular  carts  for 
carrying  potatoes,  meat,  vegetables,  etc.  To 
give  an  idea  of  the  establishment  it  may  be 
enough  to  say  that  three  thousand  pounds  of 
meat  are  cooked  there  daily.  I  saw  the  "  Galerie 
des  plans  et  des  fortresses  de  France"  where  there 
are  models,  over  two  hundred  feet  square,  of 
many  of  the  principal  fortified  cities  of  France  ; 
the  battle  of  Lodi  and  the  siege  of  Rome  executed 
in  wood  and  plaster.  There  is  a  finely  selected 
library  of  several  thousand  volumes  for  the  use 


HOTEL   DBS   INVALIDES.  103 

of  the  inmates.  The  church  is  a  fine  one,  filled 
with  banners  and  old  flags  captured  in  war,  the 
banners  arranged  on  both  sides  of  the  nave./ 

To  this  hotel  officers  and  men  come  to  spend  the 
remnant  of  their  days  in  peace  and  happiness  ; 
in  this  church  they  assemble  to  offer  their  prayers 
and  attend  to  the  salvation  of  their  souls.  How 
edified  I  was  to  see  them  kneeling  before  the 
Blessed  Sacrament  with  prayer  book  or  beads  in 
hand!  The  Blessed  Sacrament  is  seldom  left 
without  some  worshippers.  This  church  consists 
of  a  nave  divided  by  lofty  side  arches,  supporting 
a  gallery  on  either  side,  and  is  called  EEglise  des 
Soldats,  The  Soldiers'  Church.  Strictly  speaking 
it  forms  two  distinct  churches,  the  one  of  which  I 
am  now  speaking,  and  the  one  belonging  to  the 
main  altar,  called  the  Church  of  the  Dome,  where 
the  remains  of  Napoleon  were  temporarily  placed 
when  brought  from  Si  Helena.  The  Dome  is  a 
magnificent  edifice  ;  its  height  to  the  top  of  the 
cross  is  three  hundred  and  twenty-three  feet ; 
the  interior  is  circular  with  branches  forming 
the  nave  and  the  transept,  filled  with  splendid 
tombs,  and  decorated  with  fine  paintings  ;  the  ceil- 
ing is  enriched  with  beautiful  drawings  ;  a  wind- 
ing staircase,  on  each  side  the  altar  leads  to  the 
crypt  containing  the  tomb  of  Napoleon  I. ;  over 
the  entrance  there  is  a  quotation  from  the 
Emperor's  will :  "I  desire  that  my  ashes  may 
repose  on  tlie  banks  of  the  Seine  in  the  midst  of 
the  French  people  whom  I  have  ever  loved" 
On  the  balustrade  surrounding  the  tomb  are  the 


104  FRANCE. 

names  of  the  hero's  principal  victories  represented 
by  fourteen  colossal  statues.  The  tomb  is  an 
immense  monolith  of  porphyry,  weighing  one 
hundred  and  thirty-five  thousand  pounds,  and  it 
required  a  steam  engine  to  work  for  two  years  to 
polish  it  ;  the  sarcophagus  is  a  single  block 
twelve  feet  long  by  six  wide,  resting  on  a  pedestal 
of  green  granite  ;  on  the  coffin,  which  is  of  ebony, 
we  read  the  simple  word  NAPOLEON,  the  same 
that  was  put  upon  his  tomb  and  coffin  as  a  favor  by 
that  most  inglorious  of  jailers,  Sir  Hudson  Lowe. 
In  the  recess  adjoining  the  crypt  stands  the 
statue  of  Napoleon  dressed  in  his  imperial  robes  ; 
here  also  is  the  crown  of  gold  voted  by  the  town 
of  Cherbourg,  the  insignia  he  wore  on  state  occa- 
sions, and  the  sword  he  wore  at  the  battle  of 
Austerlitz.  It  is  said  the  entire  expense  of  the 
tomb  was  nearly  four  millions  of  dollars.\ 

On  my  way  to  the  Madeleine  I  visited  the 
grand  and  majestic  obelisk  made  from  a  single 
stone,  brought  from  Thebes,  (now  called  Luxor,) 
Egypt,  in  1833.  It  is  an  ancient  monument  going 
back  fifteen  hundred  and  fifty  years  before  the 
Christian  era  ;  apart  from  its  pedestal,  it  weighs 
upwards  of  two  hundred  and  forty-six  tons  ;  it 
is  covered  with  inscriptions,  and  it  cost  about 
half  a  million  of  francs  to  put  it  in  its  present 
position  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde.  From  there 
I  proceeded  to  the  Boulevard  de  Madeleine,  to 
see  the  renowned  church,  commenced  in  the  reign 
of  Louis  XY.  in  1464  and  finished  by  Louis 
Philippe.  The  building  and  columns  stand  on  a 


CHURCH    OF   ST.    ROCH.  105 

platform  three  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet  long 
by  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  wide,  and  is  ap- 
proached by  a  flight  of  twenty-eight  steps,  extend- 
ing the  whole  length  of  the  fagade  ;  fifty-two 
beautiful  Corinthian  columns,  forty-nine  feet  high, 
surround  it.  The  church  is  lighted  by  three 
cupolas  resting  on  arches  supported  by  fluted 
Corinthian  columns.  The  interior  is  finely  deco- 
rated. In  the  Place  Vendome  I  visited  the  great 
Tuscan  column  copied  after  the  Trajan  Pillar  at 
Rome.  It  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet  in 
height  and  is  covered  with  bas-reliefs  in  bronze. 
A  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Napoleon  I.  stands  on 
its  summit.  I  saw  the  Church  of  St.  Roch,  which 
is  really  magnificent^ 

It  is  not  my  object  to  describe  every  thing 
which  I  saw  or  that  is  worth  seeing  in  Paris  ; 
it  would  be  out  of  my  province.  I  was  not  allow- 
ed to  see  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  which  had  been 
thrown  open  to  visitors,  because  an  order  from 
the  government  to  close  it  came  just  one  week 
before  my  visit.\ 


CHAPTER  IV. 

BELGIUM,  HOLLAND,  PRUSSIA. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  FRANCE  —  COMPIEGNE  —  CAMBRAY  —  BELGIUM — 
BRUSSELS — CATHEDRAL — ANT  WERP —CATHEDRAL  —  HOLLAND  — 
DUTCH  CUSTOM  HOUSE  —  THE  SCHELDT  —  DUTCH  MANNERS  — ROT- 
TERDAM —  THE  HAGUE  —  LEYDEN  —  HAARLEM  —  AMSTERDAM  — 
UTRECHT — PRUSSIA — BERG  AND  CLEVES— DuSSELDORF — COLOGNE 
— CATHEDRAL — ST.  URSULA  AND  COMPANIONS. 

V  HAVING  seen  in  Paris  all  I  intended  for  the 
present,  I  left  for  Belgium  early  in  the  morning. 
The  country  was  very  well  cultivated  and  had  the 
appearance  of  a  garden.  We  passed  through 
a  number  of  manufacturing  towns  apparently 
in  a  very  flourishing  condition.  Compiegne,  a 
town  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  is  well  known 
for  being  the  place  where  Joan  of  Arc  was  taken 
prisoner  and  handed  over  to  John  of  Luxembourg, 
who  shamefully  delivered  her  to  the  English  for 
a  low  price.  The  Tour  de  la  Pucelle  marks  the 
spot  where  this  heroine,  having  made  a  sally 
on  the  besiegers,  endeavored  to  enter  the  town 
gate.  We  passed  through  Cambray,  famous  for 
being  the  place  where  the  immortal  and  perse- 
cuted Archbishop  Fenelon,  author  of  the  world- 
renowned  Telemachus  is  buried  ;  a  fine  monu- 
ment has  been  erected  to  his  memory  in  the  new 

(106) 


BRUSSELS.  107 

Cathedral  built  on  the  site  of  the  old  one.  The 
linen  known  as  u  cambric "  is  manufactured  in 
this  place.  In  Esquline  our  baggage  was 
examined  in  a  gentlemanly  manner,  and  we 
entered  Belgium.  Charleroi  is  the  first  Belgian 
fortress  on  the  frontier  of  France.  This  city  was 
founded  by  Charles  II.  It  has  twenty  thousand 
inhabitants  and  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  places 
in  Belgium.  It  is  sufficient  to  say  that  it  em- 
ploys about  eleven  thousand  men  in  the  coal 
mines  or  work  around  them,  and  over  one  thous- 
and more  in  making  nails,  etc.  Its  fortifications, 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1795,  were  restored 
by  the  Duke  of  Wellington.  When  I  arrived  at 
the  station  in  Brussels  and  while  I  was  asking 
some  information  from  one  of  the  employees,  my 
baggage  had  been  landed  on  the  platform  and  on 
this  account  I  had  delayed  a  few  minutes  in 
taking  it ;  I  saw  a  stranger  near  it  evidently 
laying  claim  to  it,  and  the  baggage  -  master 
and  a  policeman  making  objections  to  its  de- 
livery ;  when  they  saw  me  coming  straight 
towards  it,  they  asked  me,  "Is  that  yours,  Mon- 
sieur?'7 "  Oui,  monsieur,"  I  answered,  and  it  was 
delivered  to  me  and  the  stranger  was  taken  into 
custody  by  the  police.  I  found  the  railroads  in 
Belgium  for  convenience,  management,  safety, 
politeness  of  officers,  and  order  in  the  stations,  to 
be  second  to  no  nation  except  Switzerland.  The 
worst  managed  and  most  uncomfortable  are  those 
in  England,  except  those  in  Civita  Yecchia  in  the 
Papal  States,  and  they  are  the  worst  of  all.  Bel- 


108  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PRUSSIA. 

gium  has  been  the  first  nation  to  plan  and 
execute  a  system  of  railroads  by  the  government 
at  public  cost.  The  adoption  of  a  system  of  low 
fares  has  proved  very  beneficial  to  the  managers  ; 
it  has  enabled  a  large  class  of  people  to  travel 
and  to  travel  often,  who  otherwise  would  have 
abstained  from  doing  so  ;  it  has  been. proved  that, 
while  in  England  the  trips  average  one  to  each 
individual,  in  Belgium  the  average  is  five  to  each 
individualA 

Brussels  is  the  metropolis  of  Belgium,  and  the 
capital  of  Southern  Brabant ;  it  is  an  elegant  and 
fashionable  city,  considered  by  many  to  be  a 
little  Paris.  The  population  is  not  two  huudred 
thousand,  although  some  put  it  down  at  three 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  It  was  formerly 
the  capital  of  the  Austrian  Netherlands.  The 
upper  part  of  the  city  js  magnificent,  and  con- 
tains the  park,  the  royal  court  and  the  govern- 
ment offices,  and  the  residences  of  the  richer 
classes ;  the  streets  and  squares  are  elegant. 
The  lower  part,  lying  on  a  plain  watered  by  the 
Senne,  has  a  poor  appearance  ;  the  streets  are 
narrow  and  crowded,  and  in  it  are  the  dwellings 
of  the  working  classes  of  the  population  ;  but 
the  great  market-place  is  very  beautiful.  In  the 
centre,  of  the  Place  Hoyale  there  is  a  finely 
executed  bronze  statue  of  the  hero  of  Jerusalem 
— Godfrey  de  Bouillon,  whose  sword,  spear  and 
grave  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  in  the  Church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  in  Jerusalem.  This  statue 
is  the  work  of  M.  Simonis.\ 


BRUSSELS.  109 

There  are  several  line  fountains  ;  the  most  cele- 
brated, ancient,  and  most  regarded  with  venera- 
tion by  the  citizens,  on  account  of  its  many 
historical  records,  is  the  world-renowned  "  Man- 
nikin"  situated  near  the  Hotel  de  Yille  ;  it  is 
an  exquisite  bronze  figure  about  two  feet  in 
height  of  an  urchin  boy  who  discharges  a  stream 
of  water  in  a  natural  manner.  / 

The  Cathedral  is  grand  and  contains  many 
master-pieces  of  Rubens;  and  many  more  are 
to  be  found  throughout  the  city.  This  cathedral, 
dedicated  to  St.  Gudule,  founded  in  year  1010,  is 
famous  for  the  magnificent  paintings  on  the  win- 
dows ;  the  Last  Judgment  in  the  principal  window 
is  by  Frans  Florins.  The  pulpit  is  a  wonderful 
specimen  of  carved  work,  representing  in'  groups 
of  life  size  figures  ''the  Expulsion  of  Adam 
and  Eve  from  Paradise  •;"  it  is  supported  by  "the 
Tree  of  Knowledge."  The  Church  of  Notre  Dame 
de  la  Chapelle,  amongst  other  things,  is  famous 
for  containing  the  monument  of  the  Italian  Spinola 
family,  which  stands  at  the  left  of  the  altar. \ 

This  city  is  known  to  the  whole  world  for 
its  manufacture  of  carpets  called  "Brussels;" 
also  for  its  linen  known  as  Flanders  linen ;  and 
for  the  facility  and  cheapness  of  printing.  Every 
kind  of  book  in  any  language  can  be  immediately 
reprinted  in  Brussels  with  equal  neatness  for 
about  one-third  the  original  cost.\ 

Early  in  the  afternoon  I  took    the  cars,   and 
passing   through    a  country   of  gardens,   manu- 
factories,   and    iron    works,    in    a     short    time 
7 


110  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PRUSSIA. 

arrived  at  Malines  or  Mechlin,  so  well  known  for 
its  fine  editions  of  many  books.  Antwerp,  called 
also  Anvers,  before  the  close  of  the  fifteenth 
century  was  almost  without  a  rival,  in  Europe  for 
commerce,  but  it  was  ruined  when  it  came  under 
Spanish  jurisdiction.  Napoleon  revived  it  by 
making  it  a  naval  station  ;  and,  now  that  the 
Scheldt  has  been  cleared  of  obstructions,  it  is  the 
first  port  of  Belgium.  Its  population  is  102,761 
inhabitants.  It  is  the  birthplace  of  the  great 
painter,  Yandyck,  and  it  may  be  said  as  well  of 
Rubens  ;  although  his  father,  during  the  troubles 
of  the  Low  Countries,  retired  to  Cologne,  where 
this  most  eminent  painter  of  the  Flemish  school 
was  born.x 

Antwerp  possesses  the  finest  masterpieces  of 
these  two  celebrated  artists.  But  the  lion  of  Ant- 
werp is  its  cathedral,  the  tower  of  which  is  con- 
sidered the  highest  in  Europe.  It  is  366  feet 
high  ;  although  some  put  it  as  high  as  466  feet. 
It  runs  up  tapering  into  the  clouds  with  a  gradual, 
yet  correct  mathematical  precision,  which  is  une 
quailed  in  any  other  edifice  on  the  Continent. 
This  cathedral  is  a  magnificent  building  of  the 
gothic  style  of  architecture,  500  feet  in  length 
and  250  in  width.  The  original  design  was  to 
raise  both  towers  to  the  same  height.  The  view 
from  the  top  of  the  steeple  is  grand,  and  the  in- 
terior of  the  cathedral  corresponds  with  the  ex- 
terior. It  is  enriched  with  masterpieces  of  art 
from  the  pencils  of  Rubens  and  Yandyck.  The 
"Descent  from  the  Cross"  is  considered  the 


CUSTOM-HOUSE    OFFICERS.-  Ill 

greatest  work  of  Rubens,  and  he  gave  it  for  the 
lot  of  land  on  which  he  built  his  house.  Rubens 
was  buried  in  this  magnificent  cathedral. \ 

I  next  set  out  for  Holland,  taking  the  cars  for 
Rotterdam  ;  that  k,  as  far  as  a  landing-place  on 
the  Scheldt,  where  I  took  the  boat  for  Rotterdam. 
Passing  through  Flanders,  we  crossed  the  line  and 
entered  Holland  ;  and,  after  a  few  miles  journey, 
the  train  stopped  at  a  large  station,  and  the  bag- 
gage was  all  put  into  that  building  for  inspection, 
This  was  the  custom-house  ;  and  into  it  we  were 
all  summoned  to  open  our  valises,  trunks,  hat-cov- 
ers, and  every  kind  of  bundle,  which  were  placed 
on  the  tables.     I  opened  first  my  little  valise,  and 
I  was  asked  in  French  by  an  officer,  "  Rien  a  de±- 
darer  ?  "  (nothing  to  declare  ?)     "Hien, "  (nothing), 
I  answered.  My  valise  contained  only  a  few  pieces 
of  soiled  linen,- two  or  three  guide  books,  my  toilet 
utensils,  and  my  breviary.     Every  article  was 
searched  ;  and  I  closed  it  and  opened  my  trunk, 
which  was  not  a  large  one,  because  I  followed  the 
general  rule  adopted  by  travelers — that  is,  to  carrp 
only  what  is  necessary,  the  rest  being  an  expensive 
incumbrance  of  great  trouble  and  consequent  loss  ; 
but,  the  cold  calculating  Dutch  officer  seemed  de«. 
termined  to  find  fault  somewhere.    He  first  pulled, 
out  some  soiled  shirts  ;  and,  after  unfolding  them, 
he  put  them  aside  on  the  table.     He  then  picked 
up  a  pair  of  pants  which  had  been  made  by  my 
tailor  in  Saco,  Me.,  United  States  of  America.     He 
lifted  them  with  one  hand,  and  with  the  other 
turned  them  from  side  to  side  while,  with  his  «yes 


1  1 2  BELGITT  .V ,    HOLL  A  NT)/  PRUSS1 A . 

Wide  open,  he  went  on  examining  them  from  top 
to  bottom,  and  then  coolly  said  "that  they  were 
new!7'  I  replied  that  I  would  not  travel  with 
old  clothes.  I  then  showed  him  my  name,  which 
my  tailor  had  very  fortunately  written  on  the 
pante,  and  he  put  them  aside  on  the  shirts.  He 
took  no  notice  of  books  and  papers,  but  he  opened 
every  little  bundle,  even  where  I  had  buttons, 
pins';  some  old  coins,  etc.  He  then  unfolded  a 
stole— a  present  given  to  me — worked  in  embroi- 
dery with  silk  and  gold,  by  Miss  Emily  Thompson, 
a" -.member  of  .  my  congregation  at  Pomfret,  in 
Charles  Co.,  Maryland,  which  I  always  carry  with 
mo,  and  keep  dear,  as  a  token  of  the  affection  of 
that  congregation  toward  me.  1  had  worn  it  for 
over  sixteen  years  ;  hence  it  was  well  used  up. 
The  Dutchman  shook  his  head,  and  said,  ;i  This 
can't  pass."  "What  is  the  matter  ?  "  I  asked  him  ; 
••"  this  is  my  stole— I  am  a  priest,  and  it  is  my 
habit  I  wear  it.  Do  you  not  see  that  it  is  worn 
out?  "  He,  shaking  his  head,  put  it  separately  in 
another  place,  saying,  "  We  will  see  about  this 
matter  afterwards.^ 

He  unfolded  another  paper,  whore  there  was  :i 
gold  clasp  belonging  to  my  shawl.  He  asked  me 
whether  that  was  gold.  I  said  that  it  looked  very 
much  like  gold.  He  placed  it  outside  on  the  ta- 
ble, and  then  unfolded  the  paper  where  I  had  al- 
tar cloths  for  Mass.  "Oh."  he  exclaimed,  "  this 
i?  linen!"  "  Yes,  sir,"  I  answered;  but,  being 
'puzzled  by  seeing  them  in  small  pieces  and 
-hemmed,  he  called  another  officer,  and  asked  his 


CUSTOM  -  HOUSE    OFFICERS.  113 

opinion.  He  appeared  to  be  more  civilized,  and 
did  not  seem  to  make  much  of  it.  Here  I  began 
to  be  vexed,  seeing  my  things  all  upset  and.  hear- 
ing the  engine  giving  the  whistle  for  departure, 
and  looking  at  the  Dutchman  who,  with  the  great- 
est coolness,  was  picking  up  and  examining  every 
trifle,  collars,  stockings,  sealing-wax,  a  pair  of 
slippers,  sleeve-buttons,  and  such  like  things. 
Now  he  found  my  crucifix  ;  and,  taking  it  in  his 
hand,  he  looked  at  it  very  attentively.  He  did 
not  appear  to  me  to  have  the  countenance  of  a 
St.  Francis  Xavier,  or  a. St.  Louis,  or  of  any  pi- 
ous  man  ;  but,  with  a  curl  of  ..the  lip  and  smile  of 
a  guessing  Yankee,  he  asked  me — "  What  is 
that?"  I  replied,  4<  Do  you  not  see?"  He 
turned  his  head  to  his  companion,  who  made  a 
sign  to  him,  meaning  not  to  mind  it.  If  there  had 
been  time,  and  humor.  I  would  have  given  him 
some  good  explanation,  as  he  appeared  to  me  to 
be  a  Jew.\ 

At  this  moment,  the  engine  gave  the  last  whis- 
tle. He  took  the  stole  again  ;  and,  looking  at  the 
other  officer,  said  :  "I  do  not  think  that  this  can 
pass  "—and,  while  his  back  was  turned,  a  third 
officer  took  every  little  thing  which  had  been 
placed  outside  and  replaced  them  in  the  trunk. 
As  far  as  I  could  understand  the  Dutch  language, 
the  other  officer  said  to  him,  u  Do  not  plague  him 
any  longer."  The  train  now  commenced  to  move  ; 
every  thing  was  thrust  pell-uiell  into  the  trunk 
which,  after  great  exertion,  I  was  able  to  lock,  on 
account  of  the  increased  volume  of  my  clothes 


114  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PKUSSIA. 

which  were  in  an  upset  order,  and  I  was  obliged 
to  leave  some  articles  outside  and  secure  them 
with  the  straps  of  the  trunk.  The  officer  took  the 
trunk  on  his  shoulder  and  started  after  the  train  ; 
I,  with  the  valise,  hat-cover,  and  other  bundles 
began,  likewise,  to  run  in  hot  pursuit — the  cars 
having  got  some  distance,  although  moving  slow- 
ly. Another  officer  halloed  after  me,  saying, 
"  Do  not  run,  but  hurry,  because  the  train  will 
stop;"  and  so  it  proved.  And,  when  I  entered 
the  cars,  in  a  etate  of  perspiration  and  excite- 
ment, I  said  to  the  passengers  who  were  with  me 
«thal,  if  I  had  known  before-hand  all  this  mean- 
ness at  the  custom-house,  I  would  have  given  up 
my  visit  to  Holland  ;  not  considering  the  travel- 
ing through  Dutch-land  worth  so  much  trouble.x 
.  I  related  these  facts  to  several  American  a-nd 
English  travelers  whom  I  met  with  on  the  Rhine, 
on  their  way  to  Holland,  and  they  thanked  me 
very  much,  as  some  of  them  had  collections  of  ar- 
ticles they  had  gathered  in  various  parts  of  Eu- 
rope, which  would  have  been  ruined  by  such 
Dutch  vandals  of  custom-house  officers.  To  some 
of  them,  I  suggested  the  propriety  of  leaving 
their  baggage  in 'Belgium,  and  to  enter  Holland 
without  any.  These  suggestions  were  followed 
by  several  travelers.x 

The  Turks  in  Asia  and  the  Egyptians  in  Africa, 
were  far  more  advanced  in  civilization  ;  as  they 
searched  the  baggage  in  such  a  manner,  as  to 
avoid  giving  any  annoyance  to  passengers.  It  is 
with  truth  that,  in  America,  Dutchmen  are  con- 


DUTCH    CUSTOMS.  115 

sidered  as  a  class,  dull,  calculating,  low  beings 
many  centuries  behind  the  civilized  progress  of 
the  age.  / 

In  a  short  time,  we  arrived  at  the  landing  on 
the  river  Scheldt,  and  entered  a  Dutch  steamboat 
—not  one  of  the  best  in  Holland.  We  had  now 
Zealand  on  the  left,  and  Northern  Brabant  on 
the  right.  It  was  a  beautiful,  calm  summer  day  ; 
the  steamer  gently  glided  along  the  river,  which 
was  narrow,  and  its  still  and  glassy  waters  re- 
flected, as  in  a  mirror,  the  romantic  shores  and 
the  picturesque  cottages,  and  the  wind-mills  which 
stud  the  land.  I  observed,  with  much  interest, 
the  small  flower-gardens  near  the  little  country- 
houses  covered  with  immense  roofs  ;  we  passed 
so  close  to  them,  that  I  could  read  the  texts  from 
the  Holy  Scriptures  written  in  large  letters  over 
the  top  of  the  front  door  of  their  houses. \ 

The  customs  of  the  Dutch  are  peculiar  ;  they 
keep  everything  clean  ;  tables,  chairs,  floors,  etc., 
must  be  washed  every  week  whether  they  need  it 
or  not.  The  numerous  wind-mills  are  visible  ev- 
erywhere, and  they  are  used  for  every  purpose  for 
which  we  employ  steam.  The  boat,  gracefully 
winding  through  the  narrows  and  bends  of  the 
Scheldt,  Rhine,  and  Maas  or  Meuse,  soon  grad- 
ually approached  Rotterdam.v 

Holland  has  a  complete  net-work  of  canals  or 
rivers,  which  are  as  numerous  as  roads  with  us, 
and  answer  the  same  purpose,  besides  draining 
the  land.  I  saw  some  of  their  Dutch  country 
houses  which  are  nothing  else  but  wooden  boxes, 


116  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PRUSSIA. 

sometimes  not  larger  than  eight  feet  square,  and 
gayly  painted  with  bright  white,  green,  and  other 
brilliant  colors  ;  they  are  surrounded  by  beds  of 
flowers  in  large  masses,  each  bed  being  of  one  kind 
and  color.  These  small  houses  are  the  terrestrial 
.paradises  of  the  Dutch  people  in  summer,  where 
they  repair  on  Sundays  and  other  feast-days  to 
smoke,  chew,  expectorate,  and  drink  lager-beer  ; 
their  families  dressed  in  their  holiday  attire  join 
them  in  ruralizing  around  the  flower  gardens. 
All  these  places  are  accessible  by  little  boats,  be- 
cause, as  I  have  before  remarked,  the  canals  in 
Holland  serve  the  same  purpose  that  roads  do  with 

US.Vi 

These  small  garden-houses  have  on  the  front  an 
inscription,  in  large  gilt  tin  letters,  bearing  the 
name  of  the  house  ;  names  taken  from  imagination, 
e.g.  "Happiness  of  my  Heart!"  "'Rural  Felic- 
ity!" "  Sweet  Rest}"  "Treasure  of  Beauty  !"  "My 
Home  of  Sweetness  !"  and  such  like.  The  gener- 
al aspect  of  Holland  is  different  from  that  of  the 
rest  of  Europe.  Dutch  women,  especially  in  town, 
are  employed  in  scraping,  scrubbing,  washing  and 
rubbing  the  chairs,  tables,  windows,  doors,  bench- 
es, broomsticks,  and  everything  around  them.  In 
the  farm-houses  along  the  canals  and  railroads  I 
have  seen  them  washing  cows  to"  the  very  tail. 
The  favorite  color  of  the  farm-houses  is  red  ;  a  high, 
large  roof  extends  not  only  over  the  house  but 
over  all  the  premises  around  it.\ 

The  Dutch  have  peculiar  habits,  in  their  lang- 
uage and  in  nearly  everything,  to  which  they  are 


DUTCH    CUSTOMS.  117 

firmly  attached.  The  character  of  the  Dutch  is 
visibly  marked  in  every  action  ;  every  article  of 
furniture  is  impressed  with  Dutch  style  ;  their 
dwellings,  utensils  for  food,  their  very  movements, 
have  a  national  character.  \  . 

The  Protestant  clergy  is  bitterly  -Calvinistic, 
and  the  more  intolerant  they  are  the  more  es- 
teemed and  respected  are  they  by  the  people. 
There  are  noble  exceptions  amongst  the  clergy, 
belonging  to  the  more  intelligent  class,  but  for  the 
very  reason  of  possessing  more  liberal  ideas  in 
point  of. religion  they  do  not  command  a  great 
respect  neither  from  their  fellow-clergymen  nor 
from  the  public  at  large .\ 

While  in  Holland  I  could  not  refrain  from  think- 
ing of  the  treachery,  falsehoods,  slanders,  and  self- 
interest  of  the  Dutch  people,  who  were  the  prin- 
cipal cause  of  the  persecutions  endured  by  the 
Catholic  Church  in  Japan  :  the  blood  of  millions 
of  Christians  sacrificed  in  that  country  through 
the  space  of  forty  years  will  stain  forever  the 
character  of  the  Dutch  nation  ;  the  wounds  inflic- 
ted on  religion  by  the  Dutch  are  yet  bleeding 
sores.  Japan,  once  Catholic,  is  yet  suffering  bit- 
ter and  cruel  persecution  on  account  of  matters 
of  conscience  ;  a  persecution  planted  there  by  the 
slanders  of  the  Dutch.  I 

In  corroboration  of  these  remarks  we  copy  from 
the  New  York  ''Journal  of  Commerce, "  August 
4th,  1870,  the  following: 

"  HUNTING  A  JAPANESE  CHRISTIAN. — A  hand- 
bill has  recently  been  posted  in  various  parts  of 
Yeddo,  which  runs  as  follows  : 


118  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PKUSSIA. 

•' '  One  of  the  disciples  of  Jesus,  who  had  been 
sent  to  the  province  of  Tsu  for  safe  keeping,  es- 
caped from  his  keepers  on  the  second  day  of  last 
month,  and  has  fled  to  parts  unknown.  He  was 
born  in  the  province  of  Hizen  (Goto  ?),  his  age  is 
24,  he  is  of  a  florid  countenance  and  light  com- 
plexion, thick  lips  ;  speaks  the  dialect  of  Nagasa- 
ki, with  a  slight  impediment  in  his  speech. 

"  '  If  any  one  shall  find  him,  he  shall  report  quickly 
to  the  proper  authorities.  And  if  any  one  shall 
harbor  or  conceal  him,  he  will  be  deemed  a  par- 
taker in  his  crime  !'  "/ 

We  arrived  in  Rotterdam  in  the  afternoon,  and 
landed  at  the  quay  (Bompjes.)  This,  although 
the  second  city  in  Holland  in  importance  and 
amount  of  population,  is  the  first  for  its  maritime 
enterprise.  The  population  is  102,000  inhabitants  ; 
the  form  of  the  city  is  triangular,  the  longest  side 
stretching  along  the  bank  of  the  Maas  which  here 
resembles  an  arm  of  the  sea  ;  it  is  intersected  by  a 
broad  canal  called  Hotte,  through  which  the  Rhine 
is  most  frequently  reached.  Rotterdam  is  eminent- 
ly Dutch  ;  the  houses  are  built  of  very  small  bricks, 
convenient  but  not  elegant,  and  sometimes  they 
are  six  stories  high,  and  often  have  a  very  quaint 
look  ;  the  streets  are  narrow.  Rotterdam,  more 
than  any  other  town  in  Holland,  is  intersected  by 
canals,  which  divide  the  half  of  the  city  near  the 
river,  into  several  insulated  parts  connected  by 
draw-bridges  ;  nearly  every  house  has  small  mir- 
rors outside  of  the  windows,  arranged  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  see  every  thing  that  is  going  on  in 


THE    HAGUE.  119 

the  street,  without  approaching  the  windows  ;  this 
custom  is  common  in  every  town  in  Holland. 
There  is  nothing  very  interesting  to  be  seen  in 
Rotterdam,  and  a  few  hours7  stay  will  be  sufficient 
to  observe  men  coloring  meerschaums,  and  women 
scrubbing,  mopping  and  rubbing  every  thing  in 
their  reach.  It  is  noted,  however,  as  being  the 
birthplace  of  the  famous  Erasmus.  In  general, 
Holland  has  no  great  monuments  or  antiquities  to 
be  seen,  except  museums,  but  it  is  a  romantic  coun- 
try ;  it  must  be  unhealthy  with  eight  months  of 
cold  winter,  and  four  months  of  hot,  damp,  and 
foggy  summer.\ 

The  road  to  Amsterdam  passes  through  The 
Hague.  This  city,  called  GravenkaagebjiliiG  Dutch, 
Haag\>y  the  Germans,  and  la  Haye  by  the  French, 
is  a  beautiful  one,  well  built,  with  regular  streets 
and  promenades  :  it  is  the  residence  of  the  Kings 
of  Holland,  the  seat  of  the  Dutch  Government, 
and  has  75,000  inhabitants;  it  is  very  pleasantly 
situated  four  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  is  Hie  na- 
tive place  of  the  celebrated  Huygens,  who  devel: 
oped  the  doctrine  of  the  pendulum  which  subject 
had  already  been  treated  by  Galileo.  Huygens 
was  the  first  who  applied  the  pendulum  to  clocks, 
and  thus  became  the  inventor  of  the  pendulum 
clock  in  the  year  1656.  The  Hague  contains  a 
good  collection  of  paintings,  and  of  Chinese  and 
Japanese  curiosities.  It  has  some  fine  buildings  ; 
the  Old  Palace  is  an  enormous  pile,  in  which  you 
can  see  every  kind  or  style  of  architecture,  but  it 
is  not  beautiful,  either  inside  or  out.  \ 


120  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PRUSSIA. 

The  road  passes  through  Ley  den,  a  town  of  30, 
000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Rhine.  The  Uni- 
versity in  this  place  is  famous  throughout  Europe, 
and  was  founded  in  1575.  Boerhave,  Grotius, 
Descartes  and  Scaliger  were  professors  and  schol- 
ars in  this  institution.  The  Museum  of  Natural 
History  is  considered  to  be  the  finest  in  Europe. 
Scaliger,  Boerhave,  John  of  Leyden,  Yossius, 
Musschenbroek,  Rembrandt  (the  famous  painter), 
and  other  world-renowned  men,  were  born  in  this 
place.\ 

Here  the  railroad  to  Haarlem  commences,  and 
passes  through  those  artificial  sand  banks  which 
are  the  famous  ''Dikes'7  that  protect  Holland 
from  being  inundated  at  high  water  ;  these  arti- 
ficial sand  banks  are  enormously  high.  This  coun- 
try is  justly  called  Netherlands,  (low  countries,) 
because  it  is  not  only  a  very  level  or  flat  land,  but 
also  because  a  great  part  of  it,  especially  towards 
the  sea  coast,  is  even  lower  than  the  level  of  the 
adjacent  ocean  ;  in  some  places  as  much  as  forty 
feet  below  high-water  mark.  Along  the  const  of 
the  North  Sea  there  is  a  line  of  broad  sand  hills 
and  downs  in  some  parts  so  high  as  to  shut  out  a 
view  of  the  sea,  even  from  the  top  of  spires .\ 

In  some  parts  of  Zealand  and  North-Holland, 
the  wear  of  the  embankment  by  the  sea  to  pre- 
vent its  encroachment  is  kept  with  great  difficulty 
and  at  an  immense  expense.  Friesland  and 
Groningen  having  no  sand  hills,  are  protected  by 
stupendous  dikes  and  palisades,  the  repairs  of 
which  cost  upwards  of  half  a  million  sterling  each 
year.\ 


HAARLEM AMSTERDAM.  121 

Haarlem  contains  27,000  inhabitants,  and  is 
situated" on  the  river  Spaaren.  three  miles  from 
the  sea,  and  near  lake  Haarlem,  communication 
with  which  is  by  a  canal.  This  place  is  noted  for 
its  export  of  flowers,  especially  such  as  Crocuses, 
Tulips,  Hyacinths,  and  Convolvuluses  ;  instances 
are  recorded  where  $2,000  has  been  paid  for  a 
single  Tulip  bulb.x 

The  principal  edifice  in  this  city  is  the  vast 
Gothic  church  of  St.  Bavon,  remarkable  for  its 
high  tower  and  the  organ  which  contains  5,000 
pipes.  The  church  is  now,  unfortunately,  in  the 
hands  of  Protestants  ;  the  organist  charges  five 
dollars  and  the  blower  one,  to  perform  for  a  part}r 
of  visitors.  The  organ  is  now  so  much  out  of  tune 
that  it  is  well  worth  the  payment  of  five  dollars 
not  to  hear  it,  to  avoid  the  danger  of  having  the 
nerves  injured  by  its  loud  discordant  notes  ;  the 
town  refuses  to  pay  the  sum  of  two  thousand 
pounds  necessary  to  put  it  in  order. \ 

Amsterdam.  I  arrived  in  this  place  late  at 
night,  so  I  could  not  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing 
it  till  the  next  day  when  I  imagined  I  was  in 
Venice.  This  place  is  justly  styled  the  "  Venice 
of  the  North  "  on  account  of  us  similarity  of  sit- 
uation with  "  the  Queen  of  the  Adriatic."  Am- 
sterdam is  the  real  capital  of  Holland,  and  it  was 
formerly  the  greatest  commercial  city  of  the  world. 
It  has  a  population  of  over  207,000  inhabitants  ; 
situated  on  the  Amstel,  an  arm  of  the  Y,  (pro- 
nounced eye,)  which  constitutes  its  port,  commu- 
nicating with  the  North  sea  by  the  North  Holland 


122  LjtfLGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PRUSSIA. 

canal,  which  extends  to  the  Helder  and  the  Texel 
in  order  to  avoid  the  dangers  and  difficulties  of 
navigating  the  shallow  waters  of  the  Zuyder  Zee, 
but  this  is  to  be  superseded  by  a  shorter  canal 
througl^  the  isthmus  of  Holland.\ 

This  city  has  the  form  of  a  crescent  surrounded 
by  walls  ;  it  is  intersected  by  numerous  canals 
which  divide  the  city  in  90  island.s,  crossed  by 
nearly  300  bridges.  Amsterdam  and  Holland  in 
general,  for  their  safely  in  time  of  war,  trust  to 
the  facility  of  inundating  the  surrounding  country, 
which  may  easily  be  laid  under  water,  and  this 
expedient  has  been  several  times  resorted  to,  es- 
pecially in  1672  ;  for  this  reason  the  ramparts  of 
Amsterdam  have  been  planted  with  trees  and  con- 
verted into  boulevards.  Amsterdam  derives  its 
name  from  dam  and  Amstel,  the  river  that  runs 
through  the  city.  The  finest  building  in  the  city- 
is  the  Royal  Palace,  regarded  by  the  Dutch  as  one 
of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  It  is  erected  on  a  foun- 
dation of  over  13,000  piles  ;  it  is  much  ornamen- 
ted, and  the  top  of  the  cupola  is  157  feet  high, 
commanding  an  enchanting  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.\ 

My  plan  was  now  to  enter  Prussia  by  Emmerich, 
to  direct  my  course  to  Cologne  ;  then  to  take  the 
steamer  and  make  the  ascent  of  the  Rhine  as  far 
as  Mannheim,  to  visit  Frankfort,  Baden,  etc.,  and 
to  go  to  Strasbourg  ;  from  thence  to  Germany 
again,  and  enter  Switzerland  by  BAle.  I  left 
Amsterdam  for  Utrecht  by  the  first  morning  train, 
desirous  of  arriving  at  Cologne  by  evening.  The 


UTRECHT CLEVES GELDERN .  123 

ride  to  Utrecht  is  delightful ;  villages,  farm-houses, 
gardens  blooming  with  flowers,  and  the  romantic 
Dutch  garden-houses,  canals  and  wind-mills  pre- 
sent an  interesting  and  picturesque  landscape^ 

Early  in  the  morning  we  arrived  at  Utrecht,  an 
agreeable  city  of  50,000  inhabitants,  situated  on 
the  Rhine.  It  is  famous  for  the  "  Treaty  of  1713," 
which  pacified  Europe.  The  castle  of  this  city 
was  presented  by  Charles  Martel,  in  the  seventh 
century,  to  St.  Willibrod,  for  his  residence  when 
he  left  England  to  convert  the  Dutch.  He  was 
the  first  Bishop  of  that  place.  The  Cathedral  is 
very  tine,  and  the  tower  320  feet  high,  is  built  on 
another  side  of  the  church.\ 

We  passed  the  pretty  town  of  Arnheim,  and 
soon  were  on  the  frontiers  of  Prussia.  We  skir- 
ted Westphalia,  famous  in  the  history  of  Germany. 
At  Emmerich,  a  very  strongly  fortified  Prussian 
town,  our  baggage  was  examined  in  a  proper  and 
polite  manner,  and  we  crossed  the  Rhine  and  en- 
tered the  provinces  of  Berg  and  Cleves.\ 

At  Cleves,  once  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  that 
name,  but  now  a  fortified  Prussian  city  of  10,000 
inhabitants,  there  is  the  ancient  castle  ofStchwar- 
zenburg,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Duke  of 
Cleves,  and  the  birthplace  of  Anne,  wife  of 
Henry  VIIL,  and  the  scene  of  an  interesting  le- 
gend A 

Passing  through  a  sandy  territory,  enriched  by 
factories,  we  arrived  at  Geldenn,  where  we  cros- 
sed the  Eugenian  canal  which  connects  the  Maas 
with  the  Rhine.  Traveling  through  the  small 


124  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PEUSSIA. 

city  of  Kempen,  (the  native  place  of  the  famous 
Thomas  Hamerken  Kempis,)  Wcrdingen,  and 
near  Neus  or  Nuyss,  called  also  Neufs,  a  small 
city  of  Prussia,  we  crossed  the  Rhine  again,  and 
proceeded  to  DiisseldorfF,  which  is  one  of  the 
nicest  and  most  regular  towns  on  the  Rhine.  It 
is  the  capital  of  the  Diisseldorf  in  the  Prussian 
province  of  Juliers-Cleves-Berg,  and  was  former- 
ly the  capital  of  the  Dutch y  of  Berg.  It  is  sit- 
uated on  a  charming  plain  on  the  Rhine  and 
Dtissel  which  unite  under  its  walls.  The  houses 
look  like  palaces,  and  the  public  gardens  are 
ranked  amongst  the  most  beautiful  in  Europe  ;  the 
principal  streets  are  ornamented  with  lime  trees. 
It  contains  a  population  of  43,000  inhabitants  ;  its 
name  is  derived  from  its  Elector,  Charles  Theo- 
dore, and  the  name  of  the  river.  The  fine  col- 
lection of  paintings,  which  was  the  chief  ornament 
of  Diisseldorf,  has  be^n  removed  to  Munich.\ 

We  started  for  Deutz  where  we  crossed  the  Rhine 
for  Cologne,  of  which  Deutz  is  considered  a  suburb, 
and  which  I  considered  to  be  the  Lion  of  Prus- 
sia. I  had  already  commenced  to  be  weary  of 
cities,  museums,  and  other  curiosities. 

Cologne,  in  German  Kbhn,  Coin,  and  Caeln,  is 
the  third  city  of  importance  in  Prussia,  and  the 
capital  of  the  Prussian  district  of  Cologne  in  the 
province  of  Cleves-Berg.\ 

It  is  situated  on  the  left  side  of  the  Rhine  in 
the  form  of  a  crescent.  It  was  a  Roman  colony, 
planted  by  Agrippa,  the  wife  of  the  Emperor 
Claudius  Germanicus.  It  is  a  strongly  fortified  city, 


COLOGNE.  125 

containing  a  population  of  105,000  inhabitants, 
and  has  nineteen  gates,  and  a  bridge  of  thirty- 
nine  boats  across  the  Rhine  1,250  feet  in  length. 
Its  trade  is  large,  and  it  is  celebrated  for  its  fa- 
mous perfume  called  Eau  de  Cologne  ;  but,  as  an 
author  remarks,  with  truth,  this  city  does  not  par- 
take in  any  degree  of  the  delicate  fragrancy  of 
this  perfume,  because  Cologne  is  one  of  the  most 
filthy  cities  of  Germany,  and  each  street  has  its 
own  peculiar  stench,  notwithstanding  the  facilities 
for  washing  and  keeping  it  clean. \ 

The  chief  glory  of  Cologne  is  its  superb  Cathe- 
dral, which,  when  finished,  will  be  the  most  magnif- 
icent specimen  of  Gothic  architecture  in  the  world. 
Its  erection  commenced  in  the  year  1248  ;  but  in 
the  time  of  the  so-called  Reformation  the  work  was 
suspended,  but  now  it  progresses  rapidly.  When 
I  visited  it  I  was  requested  to  give  my  contribution 
toward  finishing  the  building,  and  I  offered  my  mite 
with  pleasure.  The  Cathedral,  called  the  Minster 
of  St.  Peter,  is  511  feet  by  231  ;  its  colossal  pro- 
portions are  calculated  to  excite  feelings  of  ad- 
miration ;  in  order  to  realize  the  beauty  of  this 
structure  it  is  necessary  to  walk  around  the  area 
in  which  it  stands.  The  choir  is  one  of  the  most 
perfect  specimens  of  Gothic  architecture  extant. 
The  proportions  of  the  interior  are  marvellous  ; 
the  nave  being  160  feet  high,  and  the  aisles  80  feet. 
The  height  to  the  ridge  of  the  roof  is  nearly  250 
feet,  and  the  two  towers  of  the  west  front,  when 
finished,  will  be  more  than  500  feet  above  the  lev- 
el of  the  square  from  which  they  rise.  The  nave 
8 


126  BELGIUM,    HOLLAND,    PEUSSIA. 

is  supported  by  100  columns,  of  which  the  middle 
ones  are  forty  feet  in  circumference  ;  the  stained 
glasses  in  the  triforium,  clerestory,  and  aisle  win- 
dows are  very  rich,  most  of  the  modern  work  be- 
ing executed  by  artists  from  Munich.  The  bones 
and  skulls  of  the  "  three  Magi,"  (or  wise  men) 
crowned  with  diamonds,  with  their  names  written 
in  rubies,  are  kept  behind  the  High  Altar  of 
this  church.  They  belong  to  Milan,  but  they 
were  stolen  by  an  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  who 
followed  the  Emperor  Barbarossa,  when  he  cap- 
tured that  city.  A  fee  of  $1.37  is  required  to  see 
them  on  week  days,  but  on  Sundays  and  feasts 
they  are  exhibited  free.  This  church  also  contains 
the  tomb  of  Maria  De  MediciA 

The  Church  of  St.  Peter  contains  the  font  in 
which  Rubens  was  baptized,  (he  having  been  born 
in  Cologne,)  and  also  one  of  his  greatest  master- 
pieces, "The  Crucifixion,"  presented  by  him  to 
the  Church  in  which  he  was  baptized  just  a  short 
time  before  his  death. 

Here  is  also  the  Church  of  St.  Ursula,  in  which 
are  preserved  the  bones  of  this  saint  and  her  com- 
panions ;  they  are  piled  one  on  the  top  of  the 
other. \ 

On  the  bank  of  the  Rhine,  between  Cologne  and 
Bonn,  I  saw  the  spot  where  St.  Ursula  and  her 
companions  were  barbarously  murdered  by  the 
Huns.  Some  authors  say  that  St.  Ursula  suffered 
death  in  the  camp  of  Maximillian.  The  number 
of  the  virgins  murdered  is  stated  to  have  been 
eleven  thousand,  but  according  to  another  reading, 


ST.    URSULA.  127 

the  number  of  her  companions  was  only  eleven. 
This  number  may  have  been  increased  to  eleven 
thousand  by  a  mistake  in  taking  the  name  of  one 
of  her  attendants  (called,  according  to  the  legend, 
and  according  to  a  missal  which  belonged  to  the 
Sorbonne,  Undecimilla,}  for  a  number./ 


CHAPTER  V. 

ASCENT   OF   THE  RHINE. 

ASCENT    OF   THE   RHINE BONN — THE    8IEBENGEBIRGE THE    DRACHENFELS — 

THE  WEI8SENTHURM  —  COBLENTZ— GERMANY NASSAU — WIESBADEN — ST.  GOAR- 

HAU8EN — ALTAR     OK     BACCHUS — BISHOP     HATTO AN    AMERICAN   FAMILY MAY- 

ENCE — FRANKFORT O2CUMEN1CAL     COUNCIL    REJECTED     BY    THE    POPE — WORMS 

— MANNHEIM BADEN HEIDELBERG — CARLSRUHE BADEN-BADEN — STRASBOURG 

CATHEDRAL — ASTRONOMICAL   CLOCK. \ 

\  FROM  Cologne,  I  commenced  the  ascent  of  the 
Rhine,  which,  in  size,  is  the  fourth  river  in  Europe, 
and  is  one  of  the  noblest  rivers  in  existence. 
There  are  two  sources  of  this  river  coming  from 
the  elevated  region  bordering  upon  Mount  St.  Got- 
hard,  and  a  third  from  a  glacier  in  the  mountain 
of  Adula.  At  a  place  several  miles  from  Reich  e- 
nau,  at  the  point  of  confluence  of  these  three 
sources,  the  river  takes  the  name  of  Rhine,  and 
is  230  feet  wide.  From  Reichenau  to  Basle,  it  is 
navigable  at  intervals.  Before  it  falls  into  the 
Lake  of  Constance,  it  forms  the  famous  cataract 
of  Schaffhausen,  in  the  Canton  of  Zurich,  where 
the  river  is  closely  compressed  by  rocks,  and  falls 
with  great  fury,  a  distance  of  eighty  feet.  It  re- 
ceives in  its  course  the  Aar,  Kinzig,  Neckar,  and 
many  other  important  rivers  ;  and,  towards  the 
end,  it  branches  off  in  many  divisions,  and  then 

(128) 


THE   RHINE.  129 

empties  into  the  Zuyder-Zee  and  the  North  Sea. 
The  canal  of  Rhone  and  Rhine  unites  these  two 
rivers  by  means  of  the  Saone  ;  the  great  canal  of 
the  North  unites  the  Rhine  with  the  Meuse,  and 
the  Nethe,  and  thus  with  the  Scheldt.  It  is  navi- 
gable to  Cologne  for  vessels  of  450  tons,  and  to 
Menfcz,  for  ships  of  200  tons,  and  to  Strasbourg, 
for  boats  of  125  tons./ 

But,  the  greatest  beauty  of  this  river  is,  that  it 
presents  so  many  historical  recollections  of  Ro- 
man conquests  and  defeats  ;  of  the  chivalric  ex- 
ploits of  the  feudal  period  ;  of  wars,  treaties,  cor- 
onations of  recent  and  middle  ages.  Its  banks 
present  every  variety  of  the  wild  and  the  pictur- 
esque— rocks,  forests,  well-cultivated  plains,  rich 
vineyards,  castles,  fortresses,  flourishing  cities, 
active  and  busy  manufacturing  towns,  etc.  It  is 
with  great  reason  that  the  German  people  are  so 
attached  to  its  shores  ;  its  romance  is  lovely  and 
sweet  to  them,  and  they  call  it  "Father  Rhine" 
".King  Hhine"  and  other  similar  endearing 
names./ 

I  left  Cologne  in  a  German  boat ,  the  day  was 
enchanting  and  I  enjoyed  the  sail.  Bonn  was  the 
commencement  of  the  interesting  views  of  the 
river.  As  we  approaced  this  town,  the  summits 
of  the  famous  Siebengebirge  (seven  mountains), 
began  to  rise  gradually  to  the  view,  sometimes  to 
the  right,  and  at  other  times  to  the  left,  accord- 
ing to  the  direction  of  the  boat's  head  and  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  windings  of  the  river,  and  the 
different  landings  on  both  shores  of  the  same.x 


130          ASCENT  OF  THE  RHINE. 

These  mountains,  with  their  rugged  sides  and 
ruined  castles,  on  a  nearer  approach  produce  an 
imposing  effect.  This  is  considered  the  place  of 
entrance  to  the  Paradise  of  Germany,  which  is 
the  name  given  by  the  Germans  to  that  portion 
of  the  Rhine  which  lies  between  Bonn  and  May- 
ence.  This  part  of  the  Rhine  is  grand  in  its 
scenery.  Many  castles  crown  the  tops  of  moun- 
tains, old  abbeys  on  the  plains,  innumerable  vine- 
yards planted  on  the  slopes  of  hills  and  preci- 
pices (the  vines  being  rooted  in  baskets  and  forced 
into  the  clefts  of  rocks),  make  this  a  grand  pano- 
rama. The  celebrated  Burgundy  grapes  are  raised 
here  in  every  accessible  shelf  of  the  rock.\ 

Bonn  is  a  nourishing  town  of  20,000  inhabit- 
ants, including  its  garrison  and  the  students  of  the 
University.  Bonn  is  of  Roman  origin.  The  house 
where  Beethoven,  the  great  master  and  composer 
of  music  was'  born,  is  yet  still  standing.  The 
Minster  of  Bonn  was  built  by  the  Empress  St. 
Helen,  mother  of  Constantine  the  Great.  The 
foundations  were  laid  in  the  year  320.  The  church 
is  an  edifice  in  the  Byzantine  style  and  has  five 
towers.  I  declined  going  to  the  top  of  Keutzberg 
behind  Popelsdorf  to  see  the  church  containing  a 
.copy  of  the  Scala  Sancta,  as  I  was  going  to  Rome 
to  see  the  original,  and  to  Jerusalem  to  see  the 
place  from  whence  the  Holy  Stairs  were  re- 
movedx 

Half  way  between  Bonn  and  Linz,  we  arrived 
opposite  the  group  of  the  seven  mountains  on  the 
right  of  the  river.  The  chief  of  this  group,  over 


THE    GERMAN   BISHOPS.  131 

1000  feet  high,  is  the  fameus  Drachenfels  ;  so  call- 
ed from  its  cave  in  which  the  dragon  was  killed 
by  the  horned  Siegfried.  / 

I  could  hardly  satisfy  myself  in  contemplating 
the  grandeur  of  that  mountain,  crowned  with  its 
old  castle,  once  the  stronghold  and  watch-tower 
of  the  robbers  of  the  Khine.  Here  they  could 
espy  the  vessels  which  they  intended  to  plunder, 
and  easily  defend  themselves  when  attacked.  On 
one  of  the  other  summits  was  another  castle,  be- 
longing to  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne.  In  the 
middle  ages,  bishops  in  Germany  had  acquired  a 
kind  of  temporal  power.  They  had  castles,  raised 
tribute,  waged  wars,  feuds,  etc.  These  bishops  of 
the  dark  ages  exercised  their  temporal  power 
very  arbitrarily  and  independently  of  Rome. 
They  were  courtier  bishops  ;  seeking  the  friend- 
ship of  princes,  rather  than  the  authority  of  Rome. 
This,  more  than  Luther,  was  the  cause  of  the  so- 
called  Reformation.  / 

The  troubles  and  scandals  given  by  these  bish- 
ops in  the  (Ecumenical  Councils  of  Constance  and 
Basilea  (Basle)  were  great,  and  the  most  of  the  de- 
crees and  acts  of  these  councils  were  justly  rejected 
by  the  Pope.  They  went  so  far  even  as  to  summon 
the  Vicar  of  Our  Lord  to  appear  before  them. 
They  threatened  to  excommunicate  and  depose 
him.  They  denned  a  Council  to  be  above  the 
Pope.  In  this  manner,  besides  their  wickedness 
and  perversity,  they  manifested  their  great  igno- 
rance. All  authority  comes  from  the  Pope.  They, 
by  refusing  to  recognize  and  respect  it,  thus  con- 


132  ASCENT   OF   THE   RHINE. 

fessed  that  they  had  none,  except  that  miserable 
temporal  authority  with  which  they  had  been  in- 
vested by  worldly  princes.\ 

On  the  same  side,  we  saw  the  blackened  walls  of 
the  Castle  of  Ockenfelds,  and  a  little  further,  on  the 
same  side,  the  lovely  little  town  of  Linz,  whose 
streets,  walls,  and  castle  are  built  of  basalt,  Here 
is  a  tower  built  by  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  to 
defend  the  town  against  the  natives  of  Andernach, 
and  to  collect  toll  from  the  navigators  of  the  Rhine. 
Still  further  on  and  on  the  same  side,  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  Castle  of  Hammerstein,  built  in  the 
tenth  century,  and  destroyed  by  the  Bishop  of 
Cologne  in  the  seventeenth  century.  On  the  left, 
is  the  ancient  Roman  tower  of  Andernach,  which 
is  now  well  fortified  by  the  Prussians.  Neuwied 
is  remarkable  for  the  relics  dug  up  near  it.  They 
are  supposed  to  belong  to  the  colony  of  Victory 
which  was  destroyed  in  the  fourth  century.  This 
is  the  capital  of  the  mediatized  principality  of 
Wied.\ 

Opposite,  on  the  left  bank,  we  saw  the  Weis- 
senthurm  (White  Tower)  ;  so  called  from  the  old 
watch-tower  which  stands  at  the  extremity  of  the 
village  on  an  eminence  ;  to  the  left  of  which  is  the 
monument  of  the  French  general  Hoche,  who, 
with  the  French,  crossed  the  Rhine  at  this  place 
in  1797,  in  spite  of  the  Austrians  who  fiercely 
contested  their  passage.  This  monument  was 
erected  to  immortalize  Hoche  and  his  brave  sol- 
diers, who  consummated  that  memorable  exploit 
by  imitating  Julius  Caesar — who,  on  this  very  spot, 


COBLENTZ.  133 

crossed  the  river  in  the  same  manner,  when  lead- 
ing his  army  against  the  Sicambri.  This  is  the 
place  where  he  constructed  that  famous  bridge 
described  in  his  Commentaries./ 

Coblentz,  the  Eoman  Confluentia,  from  its  situ- 
ation at  the  confluence  of  the  Khine  and  Moselle, 
is  the  capital  of  the  Prussian  circle  of  govern- 
ment (Regierungsbezirk)  of  Coblentz,  in  Rhenish 
Prussia.  It  has  24,000  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  a  lovely  plain,  and  is  strongly  fortified./ 

The  rocky  fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  is  con- 
sidered the  Gibraltar  of  the  Rhine.  The  Church 
of  St.  Castor,  at  the  very  confluence  of  the  two 
rivers,  and  distinguished  by  its  four  towers,  dates 
from  836.  It  is  the  place  where  Charlemagne 
met  to  divide  his  mighty  empire  among  his  three 
grandsons.  The  empire  was  divided  into  Ger- 
many, France,  and  Italy.  In  front  of  this  church 
is  a  fountain  erected  by  Napoleon,  who  passed 
through  this  city  on  his  way  to  Russia.  It  was  a 
monument  of  this  famous  expedition.  A  few 
months  later,  the  Russians,  in  pursuit  of  the 
French  army  on  their  way  to  Paris,  passed  the 
monument,  when  the  commander  of  the  forces  or- 
dered the  following  sarcastic  addition  to  the  in- 
scription :  "  Vu  et  approuve  par  nous,  Common* 
dant  Russe  de  la  Ville  de  Cobknce.  Janvier  ler, 
1814."  "Seen  and  approved  by  us,  Russian 
Commander  of  the  City  of  Coblentz,  January  1st, 
1814."  The  Emperor  Caligula  was  born  near 
Coblentz.  This  place  is  renowned  for  the  Mo- 
selle Muscatel  wine  ;  a  highly  prized,  spark- 


134          ASCENT  OF  THE  RHINE. 

ling  Hock.  Here  there  is  an  old  stone  bridge 
across  the  Moselle.  We  stopped  here  for  the 
night.\ 

The  next  day,  we  left  for  Horchheim — the  last 
Prussian  village  on  the  left — which  we  soon 
reached.  In  a  short  time,  we  arrived  at  the  Cas- 
tle of  Stotzenfels,  where  Queen  Victoria  was  en- 
tertained in  a  splendid  manner  by  the  King  of 
Prussia  in  1845.  This  castle  is  one  of  the  most 
imposing  on  the  Rhine.  It  was  built  by  one  of 
the  archbishops  of  Treves  as  a  residence  and  for- 
tress.\ 

We  soon  were  in  sight  of  the  lovely  valley  of 
the  Lahn,  and  we  were  already  in  the  Principal- 
ity of  Nassau.  The  small  town  of  Nassau  on  the 
Lahn,  not  far  from  the  Rhine,  is  not  the  capital  of 
this  Principality  or  Grand  Duchy,  but  it  is  Wis- 
baden  or  Wcisbaden  ;  a  city  of  17,000  inhabit- 
ants, and  not  far  from  the  Rhine.\ 

We  now  arrived  at  the  old  town  and  Castle  of 
Oberlahnstein  ;  Rhense  is  a  town  nearly  in  the 
same  condition  as  it  was  in  the  middle  ages.  It 
is  sufficient  to  say  that  it  has  still  got  the  Konigs- 
tuhl  (king's  seat)  ;  an  open  vaulted  hall,  with 
seven  stone  seats  for  the  seven  electors,  who  used 
to  meet  in  it  to  discuss  affairs  of  State.  We 
passed  in  succession,  the  towns  and  castles  of 
Braubach,  Marksburg,  and  Boppart,  all  full  of  Ro- 
man antiquities.  Salzig  is  a  line  village,  with 
large  plantations  of  cherry  trees.  Opposite,  on 
the  twin  peaks  of  a  lofty  rock,  are  the  ruins  of 
Sternberg  and  Liebenstein,  called  the  "  Two 


ST.    GOARHAUSEN.  135 

Brothers"  which  are  the  subject  of  a  legend. 
We  went  by  the  silver  mines  of  Ehrenthal,  the 
villages  of  Welmich,  Marienberg,  and  St.  Goar. 
The  position  of  this  last  named  town  is  very 
beautiful ;  the  extensive  fortresses  of  Rheinfels* 
on  the  hill  are  in  ruins.  On  the  opposite  side  we 
could  see  the  enormous  rock  of  Lurley,  and  a 
little  higher,  the  rocks  called  the  Seven  Sixters, 
(Sieben  Jungfrauen)  to  which  is  attached  a  legend. 
There  is  also  the  pretty  village  of  St.  Goarhausen, 
from  which  place  commences  the  Forstbach,  or 
Swiss  Valley,  celebrated  for  its  beauty.  At  the 
entrance  of  this  valley  is  the  castle  of  the  Cat,  a 
very  picturesque  object  in  the  surrounding  land- 
scape.\ 

Above  St.  Goarhausen  the  black  perpendicular 
precipice  of  the  Luriciberg  rises  abruptly  from 
the  water's  edge,  opposite  to  which  on  the  road- 
side is  a  grotto,  in  which  is  stationed  a  man  who 
with  a  bugle,  or  by  firing  a  gun,  awakens  the 
echoes  of  the  Lurley,  which  repeat  the  sound 
fifteen  times.  -Above  this  in  mid-channel  are 
visible  at  low  water  the  rocks  called  the  Seven 
Sisters,  the  subject  of  a  legend.\ 

Here  it  commenced  to  rain,  and  now  and  then 
we  were  obliged  to  take  shelter  in  the  cabin. 
The  captain  ordered  a  tent  to  be  raised  on  deck 
for  the  first  class  passengers,  where  we  spent  the 
time  more  agreeably,  the  boat  moving  verjr  slow- 
ly on  account  of  the  many  landings,  and  the  wind- 
ings and  rapid  current  of  the  river.  About 
noon  it  cleared  up  so  nicely  that  we  could  take 


136  ASCENT   OF   THE   RHINE. 

our  dinner  on  deck  ;  and,  to  do  justice  to  both 
the  boat  and  the  cook,  it  was  a  very  good  first 
class  dinner.  It  was  very  pleasant  to  drink  the 
real  Moselle-Muscatel  and  the  best  Ehenish  wine 
while  navigating  the  Rhine.  The  dinner,  includ- 
ing wines,  cost  five  francs.  \ 

We  stopped  for  a  short  time  at  the  small  town 
of  Oberwesel,  the  Vesalia  of  the  Romans,  near 
which  is  the  ruined  castle  of  Schonberg,  known 
for  the  tradition  of  the  Seven  Sisters,  and  the 
well  preserved  old  ca.stle  called  the  Pfalz,  built 
by  the  Emperor  Lewis  of  Bavaria.  We  were 
soon  in  sight  of  Bacharach,  whose  name  is  derived 
from  a  large  stone  which  appears  on  the  Rhine, 
at  low  water,  which  stone  is  called  the  Altar  of 
Bacchus  (Bacchi-Ara).  This  place  is  well  known 
for  the  celebrated  wine  of  Bacharach.  After 
Lorch  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Assmanshausen, 
where  the  great  gorge  of  the  Rhine  terminates.  \ 

From  the  top  of  the  Rossel  tower,  on  the  edge 
of  the  heights .  of  this  village,  the  finest  view  in 
the  whole  course  of  the  Rhine  is  obtained.  From 
this  point  the  panorama  of  the  Rhine,  with  its 
wild  sceneries,  romantic  mountains,  studded  with 
cities,  villages  and  castles,  presents  to  the  eye 
such  an  impressive  view  that  it  cannot  be  easily 
effaced.\ 

The  boat  landed  at  Bingen,  a  fine  town  of  7,500 
inhabitants  situated  in  an  angle  of  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Nahe,  the  frontier  town  of  the  Rhine- 
Hessian  territory.  Near  this  place  we  saw  the 
ruins  of  the  Mausenihurrn  (Mice  Tower),  the  scene 


AN   AMERICAN   FAMILY.  137 

of  the  strange  tradition  that  Bishop  Hatto  on  ac- 
count of  his  great  avarice  died  there  eaten  by  the 
mice.\ 

The  river  Nahe  divides  Prussia  from  theJDuchy 
of  Hesse  -  Darmstadt.  Passing  the  towns  and 
antiquities  of  Kreuznach,  Rudesheim  and  Geisen- 
heim  we  reached  Johannisberg,  whose  vine-clad 
hill  appeared  in  its  full  luxuriance.  The  castle 
now  belongs  to  Prince  Metternich.  Here  for  the 
first  time  in  my  travels  I  commenced  to  feel  lone- 
some. I  was  alone  and  had  nobody  to  talk  with, 
because  all  spoke  only  German,  of  which  language 
I  knew  hardly  enough  for  my  wants.  The  captain 
was  the  only  one  who  spoke  a  little  French. 
While  I  was  sitting  on  deck  I  met  with  an 
American  family,  the  only  persons  who  were  not 
Germans  besides  myself.  A  conversation  with 
them  broke  the  long  silence  that  I  had  kept  for 
the  entire  day.  The  gentleman  was  a  doctor 
from  New  York,  with  his  wife,  and  they  had  with 
them  a  young  lady  from  California.  They  were 
as  much  pleased  to  meet  me  as  I  was  to  fall  in 
with  them.  When  I  told  them  I  was  a  Catholic 
Priest  they  were  very  anxious  to  know  many 
points  of  the  Catholic  Church.  The  ladies  said 
that  they  never  before  had  spoken  to  a  Priest. 
The  doctor  asked  me  whether  the  Catholic  Church 
allowed  married  people  to  use  means  in  order  not 
to  have  children !  When  I  said  No !  he  ex- 
claimed in  triumph  to  his  wife,  "Did  I  not  tell 
you  so  ?  Now  hear  it  from  a  Catholic  minister  of 
the  Gospel  who  is  charged  to  instruct  us."  The 
lady  appeared  somewhat  abashed.  \ 


138          ASCENT  OF  THE  RHINE. 

The  gentleman  rose  up  and  said  to  his  wife, 
"I  leave  you  to  receive  instruction  from  a 
Catholic  Priest."  He  left  us  sitting  together  and 
went  to  another  part  of  the  boat.  The  ladies 
asked  me  several  questions  about  the  celibacy  of 
Priests,  about  the  Pope,  Confession,  the  Future 
Life,  etc.  They  appeared  pleased  with  my 
answers  to  their  questions,  and  once  I  suspected 
the  young  lady  was  a  Catholic  because  she  always 
sided  with  me  in  resolving  the  questions  of  the 
other  lady.  Engaged  in  this  controversial  con- 
versation we  arrived  in  sight  of  Mayence.\ 

This  city,  called  in  German,  Mainz  or  Mentz,  is 
the  Roman  Moguntia  or  Moguntiacum,  contains 
40,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  most  important 
fortress  of  the  German  Confederation.  The  in- 
terior of  the  city  is  not  handsome,  the  streets 
being  narrow,  crooked  and  gloomy. \ 

Mayence  is  considered  the  place  where  the  art 
of  printing  was  discovered.  John  Giittenberg, 
who  is  regarded  as  the  inventor  of  printing  in 
1440,  was  born  in  Strasbourg.  John  Faust,  a  gold- 
smith of  this  city,  claims  the  honor  of  being  the 
discoverer  of  this  art.  Here  is  the  Astronomical 
Clock  by  Alexius  Johann,  one  of  the  most  scien- 
tific pieces  of  mechanism  extant  in  our  days. 
The  Archbishopric  of  Mentz  was  an  extensive 
Electoral  Principality,  and  the  Archbishop  was 
also  an  Elector  in  the  middle  ages,  but  now  all 
that  is  done  away.  The  archbishopric  was  sup- 
pressed in  1802,  and  at  present  it  is  only  a 
Bishop's  See.  From  Mayence  there  is  a  fine  rail- 


FRANKFORT.  139 

road  to  Frankfort,  which  is  only  a  short  distance 
from  this  city.\ 

Frankfort  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of 
Germany,  well  known  for  being  a  free  city  and 
the  seat  of  the  German  Confederation,  and  the 
commercial  capital  of  Germany.  Its  wealthy 
merchants  are  noted  for  their  extensive  commer- 
cial transactions,  banking  operations,  and  specu- 
lations in  money  and  every  kind  of  stock.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Main 
or  Mayn,  and  has  74,000  inhabitants  ;  it  is  justly 
considered  to  be  one  of  the  linest  places  of 
residence  in  Europe.  The  cost  of  living  is  not 
dear,  and  objects  of  curiosity  for  travelers  are 
many.  The  Cathedral  or  Dom  is  an  ancient 
edifice  of  Gothic  architecture.  Its  tower,  com- 
menced in  the  13th  century,  is  260  feet  high,  but 
it  is  not  yet  finished — a  shame  and  a  reproach  to 
so  many  rich  families  in  Frankfort  to  let  that 
tower  stand  unfinished  after  600  years !  / 

In  this  church  is  the  election  chapel  of  the  Ger- 
man Emperors,  from  Conrad  I.  to  Francis  II., 
and  after  being  elected  they  were  crowned  in  front 
of  the  high  altar.  In  the  town  hall,  in  the  elec- 
tion chamber  is  still  to  be  seen  "  The  Golden  Bull" 
by  which  the  Emperor  Charles  IY.  fixed  the  man- 
ner of  the  future  elections  of  the  Emperors.  Frank- 
fort is  well  known  for  being  the  place  where  Pope 
Adrian  I.  convoked  an  (Ecumenical  council  in  794. 
There  were  about  300  bishops  from  Germany, 
Spain,  France,  Aquitania  and  Italy,  but  none  from 
the  East.i 


140  ASCENT   OF   THE   RHINE. 

All  the  bishops  fell  into  error  by  condemning 
the  VII.  (Ecumenical  Council,  the  2d  of  Nice,  held 
in  787.  The  cause  of  error  was  that  they  believed 
that  the  Greeks  in  that  council  had  sanctioned  the 
worship  of  images,  whereas  it  was  quite  the  con- 
trary. There  were  no  Greek  bishops  present 
there  to  explain  it.  The  Pope,  of  course,  rejected 
that  council.  The  Greeks  became  exasperated 
against  the  Latins  for  having  so  calumniated 
them,  and  at  the  same  time  they  treated  the  Latin 
bishops  with  contempt  for  their  ignorance.  The 
Pope,  however,  approved  that  part  of  the  council 
which  condemned  the  errors  of  Felix,  bishop  of 
Urgel,  and  of  Elipandus,  bishop  of  Toledo.  Both 
these  bishops  had  fallen  into  the  heresy  of  Ncs- 
torius.\ 

Darmstadt,  the  dull  capital  of  the  Grand  Duchy 
of  Hesse-Darmstadt,  did  not  excite  in  me  much 
curiosity  to  see  it,  so  I  continued  my  tour  of 
the  Rhine  on  a  Holland  boat,  belonging  to  the 
same  company  from  which  I  had  purchased  my 
ticket,  which  was  a  through  one  to  Mannheim  by 
boat.V 

Here  I  met  five  Italian  painters  coming  from 
Holland,  where  they  had  been  painting  for  several 
months,  and  they  were  going  to  Basle  by  steam- 
boat transferred  into  smaller  boats  when  the  river 
was  not  navigable  for  large  steamers.  They  told 
me  they  had  been  five  days  on  board  that  steamer 
and  they  were  anxious  to  get  out  of  it.  Here  the 
river  does  not  present  much  attraction  for  the 
tourist,  and  many  leave  the  boat  and  take  the  cars, 


MANNHEIM.  141 

which  is  the  quickest  and  cheapest  manner  of 
traveling.  Oppenheim  is  a  small  town  of  2,500 
souls,  but  is  remarkable  for  the  church  of  St. 
Catharine,  which  is  the  purest  specimen  of  Gothic 
style  in  existence.  It  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river.  In  Gernsheim,  on  the  right  bank,  there  is 
a  fine  monument  to  Peter  Shoeffer,  the  painter, 
who  was  a  native  of  this  small  village.  About 
6  P.  M.  we  arrived  at  Worms.  This  is  a  town  of 
11,500  inhabitants,  and  of  little  consideration.  It 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine.  The  Cathedral,  a 
venerable  monument  of  the  eighth  century,  is  mem- 
orable for  being  the  place  in  which  the  famous 
Diet,  where  Luther  appeared,  was  held  by  Charles 
V.  in  1521.  I  saw  Rosenwald  on  the  island  where 
the  valiant  Siegfried  is  said  to  have  killed  the 
Dragon.  About  1  A.  M.  we  arrived  at  Mannheim. \ 

Being  late  I  went  to  a  hotel  close  to  the  wharf. 
The  man  who  carried  my  trunk  on  his  shoulder 
let  it  drop  on  the  way  to  the  hotel  and  smashed 
it.  I  was  obliged  to  tie  it  with  a  cord.  The  hotel 
keeper  received  me  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  and 
showed  me  to  a  very  good  and  comfortable  room. 
I  asked  for  something  to  eat  and  drink,  but  he 
could  get  nothing  for  me  except  cold  water  ;  so  the 
Grand  Duchy  of  Baden  made  a  bad  impression  on 
me.\ 

Fortunately  I  found  in  my  valise  a  few  remains 
of  lunch,  but  not  enough  to  make  me  sleep.  In 
the  night  I  tossed  to  and  fro  in  the  bed.  I  kicked 
off  from  the  bed  several  times  a  big  light  bag 
as  large  as  a  mattrass,  and,  during  the  night,  not 
9 


142  ASCENT  OF  THE   KHINE. 

being  able  to  sleep,  I  formed  several  plans, 
amongst  the  rest,  one  of  getting  out  of  that  place  as 
sooa  as  possible,  and  on  the  next  day  to  try  to 
make  a  decent  meal  at  Strasbourg.\ 

In  the  morning  it  did  not  take  me  long  to  see 
the  city,  which  lies  at  the  influx  of  the  Neckar 
into  the  Rhine.  It  contains  30,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  neat,  clean,  and  regularly  built ;  but  the 
very  regularity  of  the  buildings  makes  it  mon- 
otonous. It  is  one  of  the  best  cities  of  the  Grand 
Duchy  of  Baden.  I  took  the  cars  for  Heidelberg 
which  I  reached  in  a  short  time.x 

Heidelberg  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  the 
same  Duchy  of  Baden,  and  contains  17,000  inhab- 
itants ;  it  is  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Neckar.  There  is  only  one  principal  street,  three 
miles  long.  The  most  interesting  object  in  the 
town  is  its  celebrated  Castle,  the  ancient  residence 
of  the  Electors-Palatine.  The  Church  of  the  Holy 
Ghost  is  divided  by  a  partition  running  the  whole 
length  of  the  building  directly  through  the  middle. 
It  is  half  occupied  by  the  Catholics  and  half  by  the 
Protestants,  and  both  officiate  at  the  same  time. 
The  Church  of  St.  Peter  is  the  oldest  in  the  city, 
and  it  is  that  on  the  door  of  which  Jerome  of 
Prague  nailed  his  celebrated  heretical  theses, 
challenging  the  world  to  dispute  them.  The  Uni- 
versity has  been,  and  is  now,  one  of  the  best  in 
Germany.\ 

We  passed  through  the  city  of  Bruchsal,  skirt- 
ed the  south  of  the  Kingdom  of  Wiirtemberg, 
but  I  had  no  desire  to  go  to  Stuttgart,  the  capital 


BADEN-BADEN  —  STRASBOURG.       143 

of  the  Kingdom,  and  the  birth-place  of  the  famous 
Schiller.  I  went  to  Calrsruhe,  the  capital  city  of 
the  Grand  Duchy  of  Baden.  This  Duchy  is  a 
long  strip  of  land,  but  so  beautiful  and  so  well  cul- 
tivated that  it  is  called  the  garden  of  Germany./ 

This  city  is  finely  situated  and  well  built,  and 
contains  25,000  inhabitants.  It  has  some  excel- 
lent buildings.  We  soon  left  for  Radstadt,  and 
for  Baden-Baden.  This  city  is  the  most  beautiful 
watering-place  of  Germany,  located  in  a  charming 
valley  inclosed  by  the  lower  heights  of  the  Black 
Forest.  It  contains  7,000  inhabitants.  It  is  well 
known  in  the  world  for  its  springs,  amusements, 
and  gambling.  Above  the  town  is  the  new  scliloss 
or  palace  of  the  Grand  Duke,  where  his  ancestors 
have  lived  for  the  last  400  years.  The  old  scJiloss 
where  the  ancient  Dukes  resided  previous  to  the 
15th  century,  is  immediately  above  the  new  one. 
The  building  is  remarkable  for  its  strange  and 
curious  vaults,  and  for  its  mysterious  and  intricate 
dungeons,  which  can  be  visited  without  difficulty. 
I  soon  left  Baden-Baden,  and  passing  through  a 
fine  and  luxuriant  territory,  rich  vineyards  and 
flourishing  towns,  I  arrived  at  Kehl ;  there  I  again 
crossed  the  Rhine,  and  entering  France,  I  reached 
Strasbourg,  where  my  baggage  was  again  inspec- 
ted with  great  civility  and  politeness.  \ 

Strasbourg,  the  ancient  Argentoratum  of  the 
Romans,  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Brusche 
and  Ille,  half  a  mile  west  of  the  Rhine,  which  is 
crossed  there  by  a  bridge  of  boats.  It  contains 
82,000  inhabitants  including  the  garrison  ;  it  is 


144          ASCENT  OF  THE  RHINE. 

strongly  fortified.  There  are  sluices  as  in  Holland, 
constructed  by  Yauban,  by  whom,  also,  many  of 
its  fortifications  were  planned  and  executed.  By 
means  of  these  sluices  the  country  can  be  laid  un- 
der water  for  many  miles  around.  The  commerce 
of  Strasbourg  is  very  extensive,  it  having  many 
facilities  of  communication  both  by  land  and  water. 
The  city  is  ancient  looking,  and  not  handsome  j 
few  of  the  streets  are  wide  and  straight.  The 
ancient  Bishopric  of  Strasbourg  in  Alsace,  lying 
on  both  sides  of  the  Rhine,  has  been  secularized, 
and  is  now  incorporated  with  France  and 
Baden. \ 

This  is  the  native  place  of  G-iittenberg,  who 
made  his  first  attempt  at  printing  in  this  city  in 
1465.  The  lion  of  Strasbourg  is  the  Cathedral 
or  Minster,  which  is  considered  to  be  the  most 
handsome  in  Europe.  It  was  founded  in  1015, 
and  completed  in  1 365,  and  is  one  of  the  most  dis- 
tinguished specimens  of  Gothic  architecture  ex- 
tant. The  tower,  planned  and  begun  by  Erwin, 
of  Steinback,  and  continued  by  his  brother  John, 
is  474  feet  high,  and  is  ascended  by  a  stairway  of 
725  steps.  It  is  a  masterpiece  of  architecture,  be- 
ing built  of  hewn  stone  cut  with  such  delicacy  as 
to  give  it  at  a  distance  the  appearance  of  lace. 
It  is  the  highest  spire  in  the  world,  twenty-five 
feet  higher  than  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops  at  Cairo. 
However,  that  Pyramid  must  have  been  higher, 
considering  that  the  top  has  been  worn  away  by 
the  action  of  the  atmosphere,  the  surface  of  its 
top  being  now  15  feet  in  diameter,  besides  the 


CLOCK    OF   STRASBOURG.  145 

layer  of  massive  polished  marble  removed  from 
the  entire  Pyramid,  and  the  rising  of  the  ground 
by  the  accumulated  sand  blown  by  the  winds  of 
the  desert,  as  the  huge  Sphynx,  now  buried  with 
sand  to  the  very  neck,  can  demonstrate.  The  view 
from  the  top  of  the  spire  is  very  grand.  The  in- 
terior of  the  church  contains  the  tombs  of  Dessaix. 
Kleber,  and  the  architect.  Amongst  many  other 
objects  of  interest,  I  must  mention  the  monu- 
ment erected  to  Bishop  Wernher.  It  is  a  statue  of 
this  good  bishop  meditating  upon  the  plan  of  his 
Cathedral  spread  before  him  ;  also  the  beautiful 
Gothic  monument  of  Bishop  Conrad,  of  Lichten- 
berg,  who  died  in  1279.  / 

The  world-renowned  Clock  of  Strasbourg  is  in- 
side of  this  Cathedral.  It  was  planned  and  exe- 
cuted by  several  professors.  Besides  the  hours 
of  the  day,  it  describes  the  motions  of  the  planets. 
It  is  a  complete  astronomical  almanac,  from  which 
you  can  read  the  revolutions  of  the  heavenly  bod- 
ies, and  the  various  phenomena  which  they  ex- 
hibit. This  masterpiece  of  work  was  completed 
in  1574,  from  which  time  its  movements  contin- 
ued, without  interruption,  till  1789.  It  has  a  per- 
petual calendar  of  the  movable  festivals,  marking 
even  the  leap  years.  The  Ecclesiastical  computa- 
tion with  all  its  indications  is  complete  ;  the  system 
of  Copernicus,  the  phases  of  the  moon  and  planets, 
the  eclipses  of  the  sun  and  moon,  their  true  time 
and  the  apparent ;  the  equinoxes,  the  solar  and 
lunar  equations  ;  the  reduction  of  the  middle 
movements  of  the  sun  and  moon  reduced  to  their 


146          ASCENT  OF  THE  RHINE. 

true  times  and  places,  all  calculated  and  brought 
to  perpetuity.\ 

Over  the  first  quadrant  the  day  is  represented 
by  a  coach  of  the  sun  pulled  by  four  horses  guid- 
ed by  Apollo,  who  comes  out  of  a  door,  drives 
slowly,  and  at  the  setting  of  the  sun,  retires  by 
another  door  at  the  opposite  side.  At  the  same 
time  the  coach  of  the  night,  pulled  also  by  horses, 
issues  from  the  same  door  from  which  the  sun 
emerged.  Before  the  appearance  of  the  coach 
both  doors  open  simultaneously,  and  when  one 
coach  is  in  and  the  other  out,  both  close  at  the 
same  time.  Over  this  there  is  a  dial  marking  the 
hours,  and  this  is  surmounted  by  a  quadrant 
which  points  out  the  months.  The  complete  Co- 
pernican  system  is  built  and  moves  on  the  top  of 
the  quadrantA 

On  each  side  of  the  hour-dial  sit  two  genii,  one 
holding  a  bell,  the  other  an  hour-glass.  Over  this 
there  is  a  large  shrine  divided  into  two  parts  ;  on 
the  lower  part  there  is  the  statue  of  death  holding 
a  bell ;  on  the  upper  is  a  statue  of  our  Saviour, 
and  those  of  the  twelve  Apostles — six  on  each 
side  of  our  Saviour.  Each  quarter  of  an  hour  is 
struck  by  a  puppet  that  issues  from  one  side  of 
Death,  strikes  the  bell  which  is  in  the  hand  of  the 
statue  of  death,  and  retires  on  the  other  side  and 
disappears.  The  puppets  are  four,  representing 
the  four  stages  of  human  life  :  Infancy,  Youth, 
Manhood  and.  Old  Age.  Infancy  strikes  the  first 
quarter,  Youth  two,  Manhood  three,  and  Old  Age 
four,  according  to  the  time.  The  puppets  are  not 


CLOCK    OF   STRASBOURG.  147 

visible  except  when  they  come  out  to  strike  the 
quarters  of  the  hours. 

The  first  stroke  of  each  quarter  is  struck  by  the 
genius  that  holds  the  bell,  then  Infancy  instantly 
strikes  one  and  retires.  After  fifteen  more  min- 
utes which  makes  half  an  hour,  Youth  emerges,  the 
genius  strikes  his  bell  once,  and  Youth  instantly 
strikes  two  blows  on  the  bell  held  by  Death,  and 
retires  and  so  on,  Manhood  three,  Old  Age  four,  ac- 
cording to  the  time.  Death  strikes  the  full  hours 
immediately  after  Old  Age  has  struck  four  quar- 
ters, and  while  Death  strikes,  the  other  genius  re- 
verses the  hour  glass.  At  noon  the  Apostles  pass 
before  our  Saviour,  bend  or  prostrate  themselves 
before  Him,  who  raises  His  hands  and  blesses 
them  ;  at  this  moment  a  cock  strikes  or  flaps 
His  wings  and  crows.  I  was  present,  and  really 
the  movements  and  voice  were  very  natural. 
To  give  a  full  description  of  this  wonderful  clock 
would  be  foreign  to  my  purpose./ 

I  entered  an  eating  house  near  the  Cathedral 
and  ate  a  fine  dinner,  which,  including  wine,  cost 
me  only  one  franc.  I  purchased  also  a  large  bot- 
tle of  the  best  French  brandy  for  three  francs.  \ 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SWITZERLAND. 

DEPARTURE  FOR  SWITZERLAND B3.LE ERASMUS  (ECUMENICAL  COUNCIL  OF 

B8.LE  ENDING  IN  A  CONCILIABULUM  —  INSOLENCE  OF  THOSE  BISHOPS THEIR 

ACTS    REJECTED    BT    THE    POPE  SUPREMACY   OF  THE  POPE  EUGENE    IV. 

ORDERS    THE    COUNCIL   TO   BE     TRANSFERRED    TO   FERRARA  CONSTANCE  

OECUMENICAL  COUNCIL  OF  CONSTANCE  REJECTED  BY  THE  POPE,  EXCEPT  A  FEW 

SESSIONS —  SHAFFHAUSEN BERNE FREIBURG THE    ORGAN LAUSANNE 

LAKE  LEMAN GENEVA  —  CATHEDRAL MONT  BLANC DEPARTURE  FOR 

OUCHY MARTIGNY ASCENT  OF  THE  GREAT  ST.  BERNARD HOSPICE— DOGS.\ 

NMr  next  destination  was  Bale  in  Switzerland. 
At  5  P.  M.  I  left  by  railroad  for  Malhauseu, 
where  I  arrived  at  9  P.  M.,  passing  through  a 
fine  and  picturesque  country,  ornamented  with 
charming  little  villages.  The  same  evening  I  left 
for  Bale,  at  which  place  I  arrived  in  forty 
minutes.x 

There  my  baggage  was  inspected  ;  my  trunk 
and  portmanteau  were  opened  only  as  a  matter 
of  form,  my  word  being  taken  by  those  gentle- 
manly officers,  and  I  took  up  my  lodgings  at  the 
Black  Bear  Hotel,  which  was  a  good,  comfortable 
hotel,  very  clean,  and  the  landlord  very  obliging. 
I  must  do  this  justice  to  Switzerland  —  to  ac- 
knowledge that  the  hotels,  railroads  and  public 
conveyances  there  are  superior  to  those  of  Ger- 
many, England  and  France.  I  took  my  supper, 

(148) 


BlLE.  149 

wrote  to  my  relatives  in  Italy,  and  to  America, 
and  after  a  good  supper  I  retired.\ 

Bale,  Basle  or  Basel  is  one  of  the  largest  cities 
in  Switzerland  ;  it  is  the  capital  of  the  canton  of 
the  same  name,  and  contains  about  40,000  inhabi- 
tants ;  it  is  not  at  the  present  time  as  flourishing 
as  in  former  days.  The  city  lies  in  a  beautiful 
country,  well  built  and  divided  by  the  Rhine  into 
the  greater  and  lesser  towns,  which  are  united  by 
a  bridge  730  feet  long.  From  time  immemorial 
an  enmity  has  existed  between  the  inhabitants  of 
these  two  parts  of  the  city ;  an  enmity  which  is 
not  yet  entirely  eradicated.  It  was  the  native 
place  of  (Ecolampadius,  Grynacus,  Hermann. 
Erasmus  lived  here  for  several  years,  and  died  in 
this  city.\ 

The  old  custom  in  this  city  to  keep  the  clocks 
one  hour  in  advance  of  the  time  of  other  cities  has 
nearly  gone.  Various  reasons  are  given  for  this 
strange  custom  ;  one  is,  that  once  the  city  was 
saved  by  the  town  clock,  which  accidentally,  in- 
stead of  striking  twelve,  struck  one,  and  the  en- 
emies, who  had  planned  to  take  the  city  by  surprise 
at  twelve  o'clock,  hearing  the  town  clock  strik- 
ing one,  thinking  themselves  one  hour  too  late, 
failed  to  make  their  appearance.  The  citizens,  in 
remembrance  of  the  event,  kept  the  clock  one  hour 
in  advance  of  the  true  time.  I  saw  the  Catholic 
Church,  which  is  a  good  building.  In  the  Prot- 
estant Church  I  saw  the  chair  of  the  famous  Eras- 
mus, the  pulpit  from  which  he  had  preached,  and 
his  tomb.  The  room  occupied  by  him  is  kept 


150  SWITZERLAND. 

nearly  in  the  same  condition  as  when  he  occupied 
it.  I  saw  his  furniture,  chest,  table,  etc.  I  saw 
the  well-known  "Dance  of  Death"  in  a  framed 
painting.  It  represents  death  taking  a  baby  to 
dance,  and  carrying  him  through  about  fifty  stages 
of  life  always  in  a  dance,  and,  dancing,  consigning 
him,  in  decrepit  age,  to  the  grave.\ 

But  the  principal  object  I  wanted  to  see  in  Bale 
was  the  hall  where  the  famous  council  met  on  the 
14th  day  of  December,  1431,  which  at  the  com- 
mencement was  (Ecumenical,  but  which,  through 
the  obstinacy  and  wickedness  of  the  bishops 
terminated  in  a  Conciliabulum.  The  council  had 
been  convoked  by  Martin  V.,  who  died  before  its 
commencement.  Eugene  IV.,  his  successor,  rati- 
fied its  convocation.  The  object  of  the  council 
was  the  extinction  of  the  errors  of  the  Wickliffites 
and  Hussites  and  the  reconciliation  of  the  Greek 
rite  of  the  Church  with  the  Latin,  besides  some 
reform  in  discipline,  and  to  put  a  stop  to  the  wars 
between  Christian  princes. \ 

The  bishops  behaved,  to  say  the  least,  in  an 
insolent  and  disrespectful  manner  towards  the 
Pope,  The  number  of  the  bishops  is  said  to  have 
been  300  ;  but  they  could  not  all  have  been  pre- 
sent in  every  session,  the  hall  not  being  sufficiently 
large  to  contain  that  number.  \ 

The  Pope  ordered  his  Cardinal-Legate,  Juliano 
Cesarini,  of  St.  Angelo,  to  dissolve  the  council ; 
but  in  1433,  through  motives  of  prudence,  he  re- 
voked the  order  of  dissolution.  The  Greek  bishops, 
perceiving  that  things  were  not  proceeding  right, 


SUPREMACY    OF   THE   POPE.  151 

refused  to  attend.  The  Pope,  who  is  directed  by 
the  Holy  Ghost,  and  for  whom  alone  Christ  prayed 
that  he  should  never  fail  in  his  faith,  in  which  he 
was  commanded  to  confirm  his  brethren,  did  not 
approve  the  proceedings  of  that  council.  Those 
scandalous  bishops  had  the  impudence  to  assume 
a  character  of  representing  the  Universal  Church 
and  to  be  superior  to  the  Pope,  and  dared  to  sum- 
mon the  Yicar  of  our  Saviour,  the  successor  of  St. 
Peter,  that  rock  upon  which  the  Church  is  built, 
that  rock  which  alone  holds  and  supports  every 
one  of  the  faithful,  no  matter  what  position  they 
may  occupy  in  the  church,  either  as  laymen,  or  as 
pastors,  to  appear  before  them !  Miserable  crea- 
tures !  Who  constituted  them  judges  ?  Who 
were  they  without  the  Pope  ?  Through  whom  do 
bishops  derive  their  authority  ?  Certainly  through 
the  Pope  !  To  whom  alone  was  said  "  Feed  my 
sheep,  feed  my  lambs  ! J}  Those  bishops  to  whom 
the  Pope  gives  no  authority,  have  none.  We 
do  not  follow  the  condemned  doctrine  of  Febronius, 
but  the  teaching  of  the  Doctors  of  the  Church. 
Our  glorious  Eoman  Pontiff,  Pius  IX.,  lias 
justly  remarked  in  his  letter  correcting  the 
Archbishop  of  Paris,  dated  Eome  the  26th  of 
October,  1866,  that  the  angelic  doctor  actually 
employed  the  most  logical  comparison  between 
the  Pope  and  a  King  in  appointing  magistrates. 
"  The  Pope  (says  St.  Thomas)  has  the  plenitude 
of  Pontifical  power,  as  the  King  has  in  his  own 
kingdom;  but  the  Bishops  are  taken  to  bear  a 
portion  of  the  power,  which  belongs  to  him, 


\ 


152  SWITZERLAND. 

like  judges  appointed  over  each  city"  They 
had  forgotten  the  errors  into  which  entire  as- 
semblies of  them  had  fallen  without  the  Pope. 
Did  not  400  bishops  subscribe  to  an  Arian  form 
of  faith  in  Rimini,  whereas  none  of  the  delegates 
of  the  Pope  put  their  signatures  to  the  same? 
Did  not  here  in  Bale  the  bishops,  after  confirming 
the  acts  of  the  council  of  Constance,  deviate  from 
the  decrees  of  that  council  by  agreeing  to  the 
errors  of  the  Hussites,  granting  them  the  use 
of  the  cup  in  the  Communion  ?  The  Gallican 
notion  of  the  superiority  of  the  council  over  the 
Pope  is  an  absurdity  ;  it  amounts  to  this  question, 
whether  the  body  is  superior  to  the  head  or  the 
head  to  the  body  ?  There  can  be  no  head  without 
the  body,  and  a  body  without  a  head  is  no  body 
but  a  carcass  ;  so  there  can  be  no  council  without 
the  Pope,  and  a  council  without  the  Pope  is  no 
council  but  a  carcass.  If  all  the  bishops  should 
fall  into  error  that  would  be  nothing  against  the 
Church.  The  infallibility  of  the  Church  is  in  the 
person  of  the  Pope  ;  it  is  not  attached  to  Episco- 
pacy but  to  the  Primacy  of  St.  Peter,  which 
Primacy  was,  by  disposition  of  Christ,  perpetually 
united  to  the  person  of  St.  Peter,  and  of  his  suc- 
cessors, in  order  to  establish  the  Unity  of  the 
Church,  and  to  preserve  it  for  ever.  Hence  the 
Apostle  St.  Peter,  after  having  governed  the 
Church  of  Antioch  for  seven  years,  in  order  that 
there  should  be  no  doubt  in  finding  where  the 
Supremacy  of  Honor  and  Jurisdiction  towards 
the  whole  Church  would  be  found,  went  to  Rome, 


SUPEEMACY    OF    THE   POPE.  153 

instituted  that  Bishoprick,  and  occupied  it  till  his 
death.  The  Bishoprick  of  Rome,  and  the  Supre- 
macy over  the  whole  Church,  both  being  in  the 
same  person  of  St.  Peter,  the  Bishop  of  Rome 
became  permanently,  for  ever,  and  by  Divine 
JRight,  the  Supreme  Pontiff  of  the  whole  Church, 
which  Dignity  and  Office  by  disposition  of  Christ 
is  perpetuated  for  ever,  and  conveyed  through 
the  channel  of  the  Bishop  of  Rome ;  St.  Peter  by 
his  death  engrafted,  if  I  may  say  so,  the  Supre- 
macy to  the  Bishoprick  of  Rome  ;  hence  the 
person  who  succeeds  to  the  Roman  Bishoprick, 
by  Divine  Right  succeeds  to  the  Supremacy, 
both  Offices  being  united  in  the  same  person  as 
they  were  in  the  person  of  St.  Peter.  To  be 
Bishop  of  Rome  is  an  essential  and  necessary 
condition  to  the  Supremacy.  The  succession  to 
a  Bishoprick  is  only  of  Ecclesiastic  Institution, 
hence  no  infallibility  is  attached  to  it.  Even  the 
succession  to  the  Bishoprick  of  Rome  is  of  Eccle- 
siastic Institution,  because  the  election  of  a  per- 
son to  be  Bishop  of  Rome,  depends  only  from 
the  Church,  but  the  person  elected  to  be 
Bishop  of  Rome  by  Divine  HigJit  succeeds  to 
the  Supremacy.  For  this  reason  the  Pope  as 
a  private  Doctor,  Bishop  of  Rome,  may  fall 
into  error,  but  as  Supreme  Pontiff,  speaking 
ex  cathedra,  he  cannot  fall  into  error  ;  hence,  if  ail 
Bishops  can  fall  into  error,  the  Pope  cannot. 
The  Pope  is  the  pastor  by  Divine  institution, 
commissioned  to  feed  all  sheep  and  lambs,  laymen, 
priests  and  bishops,  and  they  must  receive  their 


154  SWITZERLAND. 

food  from  him.  Hence  the  Pope  alone  is  infallible. 
When  in  an  (Ecumenical  Council  the  Pope  puts 
his  signature  to  the  acts  in  matters  of  faith  and 
morals,  they  are  infallible ;  they  express  the 
voice  of  God  manifested  through  the  channel  of 
the  Church,  they  bind  every  member  of  the  Church 
whether  layman,  priest  or  bishop.  \ 

The  signature  of  the  bishops  after  that  of  the 
Pope  does  not  give  any  force  to  the  infallibility  of 
the  truth  of  the  articles,  they  are  so  without  it ; 
the  simple  signature  of  the  Pope  makes  them  in- 
fallible, and  even  without  any  signature  at  all,  if 
the  Pope  declares  them  ex  cathedra.  The  signa- 
tures of  the  bishops  give  them  only  an  extrinsic 
force  showing  their  belief  to  be  the  same.  Nay, 
they  are  bound  to  put  their  signatures,  otherwise 
they  would  be  heretics  or  schismatics  and  cut  off 
from  the  body  of  the  Church.  \ 

All  the  bishops  assembled  together  without  the 
Pope  do  notr  represent  the  Church,  because  they 
can  fall  into  error  and  the  Church  can  not  err. 
Bat  when  the  Pope  is  with  them,  the  Pope  and 
only  those  bishops  who  believe  the  same  doctrine 
with  him  and  are  in  communion  with  him  repre- 
sent the  Church  of  Christ :  the  others  do  not. 
Hence  in  the  (Ecumenical  Councils  the  bishops 
that  were  Arians,  Nestorians,  etc.,  did  not  repre- 
sent the  church.  Even  the  Catholic  bishops  who 
sign  the-  acts  of  an  (Ecumenical  Council  do  not 
represent  the  Church  till  the  Pope  has  approved 
them  ;  and  even  then  they  represent  the  Church 
only  in  those  acts  approved  and  signed  by  the 


SUPREMACY    OF   THE   POPE.  155 

Pope  ;  and  in  those  acts  rejected  by  him,  they  do 
not ;  as  it  was  the  case  in  the  councils  of  Con- 
stance, Bale  and  many  others,  as  history  shows. 
It  is  astonishing  that  those  middle  aged  scandal- 
ous Gallican  notions  are  not  yet  altogether  dead 
and  buried,  whose  poison  is  found  in  a  few 
obscure  corners,  even  in  this  country,  but  the 
Syllabus  has  administered  a  good  antidote./ 

The  bishops  tried  to  select  the  place  for  the 
future  council  but  they  could  not  agree.  Some 
wanted  Florence,  or  Udine  or  any  other  place 
at  the  pleasure  of  the  Pope  ;  others  wanted  Bale 
or  Avignon,  or  some  other  city  in  Savoy ;  and 
this  was  in  order  to  enjoy  the  protection  of 
France  and  of  the  princes  of  Germany;  this  was 
the  real  cause  of  all  the  troubles  between  the 
Pope  and  those  wicked  bishops  at  Bale./ 

The  Pope  ordered  the  council  to  be  transfer- 
red to  Ferrara  on  account  of  the  Greeks,  and 
for  other  reasons.  The  Papal  Legate  at  Bale, 
the  Archbishop  of  Tarentum,  published  an  order 
in  the  name  of  the  council,  to  which  he  had 
clandestinely  attached  its  seal.  By  this  order, 
in  compliance  with  the  wish  of  the  Pope,  Udine 
or  Florence  was  appointed  for  the  place  of  negotia- 
tions. The  Pope  opened  the  General  Council 
in  Ferrara,  where  many  bishops,  especially 
Italians  and  Spaniards,  went.  Only  two  Spanish 
and  two  Italian  bishops  remained  in  Bale  with 
a  number  of  French  and  German  bishops. \ 

They  excommunicated  and  deposed  the  Pope  and 
created  a  new  one  in  the  person  of  Amadeus,  Duke 
of  Savoy,  who  was  a  good,  pious  layman,  living  in 


156  SWITZERLAND. 

retirement  and  not  acquainted  with  the  intrigues 
of  the  bishops.  They  persuaded  him  to  accept 
the  honor  and  gave  him  the  title  of  Felix  V.,  and 
he  was  consecrated  Anti-Pope,  and  was  recognized 
by  a  few  Princes.  The  bishops  excommunicated 
every  one  who  would  not  recognize  him  as  Pope. 
Those  Prelates  were  stubborn  and  disobedient  to 
all  authority  of  Rome  ;  they  ruled  by  arbitrary 
power  and  despotism,  and  were  dependent  upon 
the  Princes  of  France,  Germany  and  Savoy,  to 
whose  courts  they  were  attached.  These  bishops 
managed  to  make  those  Princes  vex  and  force  the 
Catholics  to  obey  the  Anti-pope  Amadeus  under 
the  name  of  Felix  Y.,  who  gave  the  Papal  Bene- 
diction, granted  Indulgences,  etc.,  but  the  Cath- 
olics, protected  by  their  pastors,  the  parish  priests, 
generally  refused  to  acknowledge  the  Anti-pope. 
After  a  few  years  the  true  Pope  requested  Ama- 
deus to  abandon  the  pretended  idea  of  being 
Pope,  which,  to  his  credit,  he  did  most  willingly. 
Eugene  IV.,  in  Ferrara,  having  accomplished  the 
union  of  the  Greeks  with  the  Church,  closed  the 
council  after  having  declared  null  all  the  schis- 
matical  proceedings  of  the  bishops  at  Bale.\ 

Constance  is  a  fine  city  not  far  from  Bale,  where 
there  is  a  beautiful  lake  on  which  several  steamers 
ply  in  the  summer  season.  The  Cathedral  is  a 
fine  Gothic  structure,  and  it  was  in  this  church 
that  John  Huss  was  condemned  by  the  council  of 
Constance.  It  was  in  this  city  and  on  the  occa- 
sion of  this  council  that  Sigismund,  Emperor  of 
Germany  and  king  of  Hungary  and  Bohemia,  on 


SH  AFFH  AUSEN  —  BERNE .          157 

Christmas  Day,  at  the  Pontifical  High  Mass, 
dressed  in  the  vestments  of  a  Deacon,  sang  the  gos- 
pel "  Exit  edictum  a  Caesare  Augusto,"  etc.,  hold- 
ing a  drawn  sword  in  his  hand.  It  is  piously  in- 
terpreted to  show  his  readiness  to  defend  the 
Gospel ;  but  the  Apostles  never  made  use  of  the 
sword  to  spread  it ;  on  the  contrary  our  Saviour 
forbade  St.  Peter  to  make  use  of  it  even  when  he 
wanted  to  defend  his  master.  These  abuses  were 
allowed  and  cherished  by  those  worldly  and  cour- 
tier Prelates  of  the  middle  ages,  especially  in  Ger- 
many and  in  France.  Many  of  those  bishops  that 
afterwards  went  to  the  council  of  Bale  were  pre- 
sent in  this  assembly.  Only  a  few  acts  of  this 
council  were  approved  by  the  Pope./ 

Near  the  city  of  Constance  is  the  celebrated  fall 
of  the  Rhine.  It  is  called  Shaffhausen,  from  be- 
ing near  to  that  little  town.  At  the  hotel  I  met 
with  an  American  gentleman  who  was  traveling 
alone.  He  desired  me  to  form  a  party  with  him 
and  I  would  have  done  so  as  he  was  a  pleasant  and 
educated  person,  but  our  objects  were  different. 
He  wanted  to  spend  a  couple  of  weeks  amongst 
the  glaciers  and  lakes  between  Constance,  Zurich, 
Lucerne  and  Interlachen  ;  but  I  could  not  stop  for 
so  long  a  time  ;  hence  I  took  the  cars  for  Berne 
where  I  arrived  in  the  morning.\ 

Berne  is  a  fine  and  regularly  built  city  of  30,- 
000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  Canton 
of  that  name  ;  it  is  located  upon  the  declivity  of 
a  hill,  on  a  peninsula  washed  on  three  sides  by  the 
Aar,  In  the  Cathedral  is  an  organ  nearly  as  large 
10 


158  SWITZERLAND. 

and  as  good  as  that  at  Freyburg,  but  as  I  was  go- 
ing thither  I  did  not  stop  to  hear  it.  The  city  does 
not  present  any  other  thing  worth  notice  except 
bears  ;  there  is  a  white  one  kept  at  the  expense 
of  the  town.x 

1  left  for  Freyburg  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  im- 
possible to  describe  the  beauty  of  the  valleys,  hil]s, 
lakes,  streams,  rocks  and  mountains  in  traveling 
through  Switzerland.  In  this  Canton  I  saw  the 
richest  and  best  cultivated  valley  in  Switzerland, 
the  Emmenthal  valley  ;  the  highest  mountains  in 
Switzerland  are  in  this  Canton.  I  arrived  at  Frey- 
burg in  the  evening  under  a  heavy  rain.  The 
omnibus  on  which  I  was  riding  to  the  hotel  passed 
by  the  Cathedral  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  in  which 
is  the  famous  organ.  The  landlord  asked  me 
whether  I  wanted  to  hear  it,  as  the  organist  was 
to  perform  on  it  that  evening.  This  was  exactly 
what  I  wanted ;  he  gave  me  a  ticket  which  cost 
one  franc,  and  I  went  into  the  church  and  he  took 
my  baggage  to  the  hotel.  The  Professor  who  was 
performing  on  the  organ  executed  some  fine  pieces 
of  music,  in  which  he  could  display  the  beauty  of 
the  instrument,  both  by  a  single  stop  and  by  a 
combination  of  them,  and  by  showing  the  full  pow- 
er of  the  same.  The  stop  "  vox  humana  "  appear- 
ed in  reality  a  human  voice  that  was  singing.  He 
played  "  TJie  Storm"  and  we  could  hear  the  rat- 
tling of  the  rain,  the  whistling  of  the  wind,  the 
roaring  and  pealing  of  the  thunder  as  afar  off  at 
first,  then  approaching  by  degrees,  with  the  echo 
produced  and  prolonged  at  a  distance.  We  were 


CATHEDRAL   OF   ST.    NICHOLAS.  159 

surprised  to  perceive  even  the  flash  of  the  light- 
ning performed  on  the  organ,  which  was  produced 
by  a  sudden,  quick  sliding  of  the  hand  over  the 
key-board,  on  some  peculiarly  discordant  stops 
which  produced  the  effect  of  a  sounding  flash 
which  I  could  not  describe  ;  immediately  we  hear 
the  sudden  clap  of  the  thunder-bolt,  which  appeared 
so  natural  that  it  made  spectators  nervous,  causing 
them  to  turn  their  heads  as  if  struck  by  an  elec- 
tric shock  ;  then  its  echo  bellowing  and  roaring  for 
some  time  till  its  solemn,  prolonged  peals  gradual- 
ly died  away  in  the  far  distance.  This  organ  is 
considered  to  be  the  finest  in  Europe  ;  it  has  67 
stops.  After  the  performance  I  found  the  omni- 
bus from  my  hotel  waiting  at  the  door  of  the 
church.\ 

Next  morning  I  viewed  the  city  ;  visited  the  Ca- 
thedral again,  and  the  suspension  bridges.  Frey- 
burg  (called  Friburg  in  Ucliland^)  is  the  capital  of 
the  Canton  of  the  same  name  ;  it  contains  10,000 
inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  the  Sanen,  which 
nearly  surrounds  it.  This  small  river  which  near- 
ly divides  the  city  marks  the  boundary  between 
the  German  and  French  languages  ;  it  is  astonish- 
ing to  see  the  population  of  this  city,  who  have 
lived  for  centuries  together,  still  distinct  in 
language,  customs  and  dress.  The  city  is  sur- 
rounded by  walls,  towers  and  sharp  rocks.  My 
bill  at  the  hotel  for  one  day,  including  everything, 
even  the  omnibus,  was  eight  francs  and  five  cen- 
times.x 

Immediately  after  dinner  I  left  for  Lausanne, 


160  SWITZERLAND. 

and  the  scenery  on  the  railway  is  enchanting.  At 
a  station  some  Swiss  girls,  dressed  in  the  national 
style,  with  short  gowns  of  bright  colors,  vests  or- 
namented with  silver  buttons,  and  with  silver 
chains  gracefully  hanging  down  from  the  should- 
ers round  the  sleeves  and  fastened  to  the  breast, 
short  sleeves,  very  broad  brimmed  straw  hats, 
which  reminded  me  of  the  Swiss  peasantry  repres- 
ented in  pictures  which  I  have  seen,  came  to  the 
windows  of  the  cars.  They  had  tempting  fresh 
grapes  to  sell ;  they  were  just  what  I  wanted,  for 
it  was  a  dry  and  warm  day,  and  I  purchased  two 
fine  bunches.\ 

An  English  gentleman,  close  to  me,  wanted  to  buy 
some,  but  he  could  not  speak  any  language  except 
English.  He  asked  me  to  purchase  some  for  him, 
which  I  did  most  cheerfully  ;  then  he  pulled  out  a 
handful  of  small  pieces  of  money  of  different  na- 
tions, and  requested  me  to  take  what  coins  would 
pay  for  them,  as  he  was  not  acquainted  with  that 
money.  I  refused  to  take  any  as  the  grapes  cost 
only  a  trifle,  but  he  insisted,  and  I  was  obliged  to 
satisfy  him.\ 

We  arrived  in  Lausanne  early  in  the  afternoon. 
Here  who  could  begin  to  describe  the  grand  and 
romantic  scenery  ?  The  calm  and  still  Lake  Le- 
man,  like  a  looking  glass,  reflected  in  its  pure  wa- 
ters the  romantic  shores  by  which  it  is  surround- 
ed. On  the  right  the  bewildering  Jura  mountains 
rose  towering  to  the  azure  Swiss  sky.  At  the  left, 
the  solitary  and  sublime  Mont  Blanc,  having  his 
head  whitened  with  the  snows  of  many  winters, 


LAUSANNE.  161 

which  no  glaring  sunbeams  of  summer  ever  dared 
to  wipe  away,  majestically  rose  in  his  full  grandeur 
amongst  the  Alps  of  Savoy.  In  front,  this  charm- 
ing lake  extended  its  beautiful  panorama  till  out 
of  sight  toward  Geneva.  It  is  scenery  which  no 
man  can  forget./ 

Lausanne  is  a  handsome  city  of  20,000  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  the  capital  of  the  Canton  of  Yaud. 
It  is  beautifully  situated  a  short  distance  from  the 
northern  shore  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva  or  Leman. 
The  streets  are  ill  paved,  up  and  down,  and  crack- 
ed. The  Cathedral  is  a  fine  Gothic  building  and 
was  consecrated  by  Pope  Gregory  X.  in  1275.  It 
has  some  fine  monuments.  I 

The  city  is  frequented  by  a  great  many  travel- 
ers ;  it  is  one  of  the  healthiest  and  cheapest  places 
in  Switzerland,  and  few  localities  can  compete 
with  Lausanne  for  the  beauty  and  extent  of  its  ro- 
mantic scenery.  It  has  been  the  native  place  of 
many  learned  men ;  of  the  mathematician,  Crousaz, 
of  the  physician,  Tissot,  etc.  In  a  Swiss  steamer, 
coasting  the  Swiss  shore,  I  sailed  on  the  lake  for 
Geneva.  / 

This  lake  is  54  miles  long,  and  its  breadth  in 
the  widest  place  is  about  12  miles  •  it  separates 
the  Alps  from  the  Jura  mountains  ;  hence  Savoy 
from  Switzerland.  Both  shores  of  the  lake  are 
studded  with  flourishing  cities,  villages  and  en- 
chanting villas.  Italian  and  Swiss  steamers  ply 
daily  around  the  lake,  but  since  Yictor  Emmanuel, 
the  tool  of  Napoleon,  foolishly,  and  without 
any  authority  from  the  Italian  nation,  gave  Savoy 


162  SWITZERLAND. 

and  Nice  to  France,  as  a  price  for  having  given 
assistance  to  secure  Lombardy  from  Austria, 
French  steamers  must  take  the  place  of  the  Ital- 
ians, till  Savoy  and  Nice  be  restored  to  Italy.  The 
manner  of  taking  the  votes  in  Savoy  and  Nice, 
sanctioning  their  separation  from  Italy  and  trans- 
fer to  France,  was  only  a  farce,  which  Napoleon 
III.  knows  well  how  to  play  ;  and  his  tool,  Victor 
Emmanuel  has  learned  from  him,  how  to  employ 
the  same  in  Italy.x 

Geneva  is  the  largest  city  in  Switzerland,  and 
is  the  capital  of  the  Canton  of  the  same  name, 
which  is  the  smallest  Canton  in  the  Confederation. 
It  contains  56,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on 
the  slope  of  two  hills,  divided  by  the  Rhone,  where 
it  issues  from  the  lake,  forming  in  its  course  two 
islands,  on  one  of  which  stands  a  part  of  the  town. 
I  landed  at  1  p.  M.,  and  took  lodgings  at  the  Hotel 
de  Geneva,  which  is  comfortable,  clean  and  respec- 
table ;  the  charge  for  the  entire  day  was  five 
francs  X 

This  city  is  fine  and  has  some  good  streets,  es- 
pecially those  of  the  Rhone,  de  la  Carraterie,  the 
Mont  Blanc,  and  the  Quays  des  Bergeres,  and 
Grand  Quai,  where  the  most  elegant  stores  and 
shops  are  located.  A  splendid  view  of  Mont 
Blanc  may  be  had  from  many  points  in  the  city. 
This  is  the  loftiest  mountain  in  Europe,  and  is  one 
of  the  summits  of  the  Pennine  Alps.  Its  top  is 
between  15,000  and  16,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  is  discernible  for  140  miles.v 
I  had  seen  this  mountain  from  the  Mediterranean 


MONT   BLANC.  163 

Sea  near  the  Island  of  Corsica.  The  first  to  ascend 
the  mountain  was  Doctor  Paccard,  of  Chamouni, 
and  his  guide,  James  Bama,  in  1786,  and  after- 
wards Horace  Benedict  de  Saussure  in  a  scientific 
manner  penetrated  all  its  mysteries.  It  has  been 
ascended  afterwards  by  several  other  persons,  and 
lately  a  new  way  has  been  found  less  hazardous 
and  less  toilsome.  From  the  highest  point,  which 
is  a  small  ridge,  about  six  feet  wide  and  very  pre- 
cipitous, on  the  north  side,  visitors  find  the  pulse 
to  beat  more  rapidly,  although  the  excitement  may 
increase  it ;  they  experience  exhaustion,  thirst 
and  want  of  appetite.  The  sky  appears  of  a  very 
deep  blue  bordering  on  black,  and  in  the  shade 
the  stars  are  visible.  The  skin  of  most  of  those 
who  have  made  the  ascent  has  peeled  off  after- 
ward, their  eyes  became  weak,  and  they  suffered 
in  health  generally.  It  is  a  perilous  experiment, 
and  several  have  lost  their  lives  in  the  attempt. 
Lately  a  young  American  lady  slipped  down  a  pre- 
cipice and  was  seen  no  more.  Yet  they  look  upon 
it  as  a  great  achievement  to  have  been  on  the -top- 
most natural  pinnacle  of  Europe.  I  had  no  desire 
for  it.  I  only  gazed  on  the  grandeur  of  Mont 
Blanc,  at  the  immense  mantle  of  snow  which  cov- 
ers its  summit  and  sides,  for  12,000  feet  without 
the  least  appearance  of  rock  to  interrupt  its  daz- 
zling whiteness,  and  which  is  the  source  and  nurse- 
ry of  eighteen  glaciers,  whose  various  and  fantas- 
tic forms  increase  the  wonderful  effect  of  its  mag- 
ical sublimity.  In  solitary  majesty  for  many  ages 
she  has  braved  the  pelting  storms,  lightning  flash- 


164 


SWITZERLAND. 


es,  thunder  claps  and  burning  suns.  As  I  had 
seen  several  glaciers  and  expected  to  see  still 
more  of  them  on  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  Simplon 
and  Mt.  Cenis,  I  was  satisfied  to  behold  those 
glaciers  and  ice  from  a  distance.x 

The  glaciers  are  vast  fields  of  ice  formed  on  the 
top  and  sides  of  mountains,  and  extending  to  the 
valleys  below  the  snow  line.  The  ice  of  the  gla- 
ciers is  different  from  that  of  the  sea  or  river  water. 
It  is  not  formed  in  layers,  but  consists  of  little 
grains  of  congealed  snow,  and  is  not  transparent. 
The  ice  of  many  different  fantastic  figures  which 
are  jammed  and  pressed  together  are  immovable, 
and  yet  they,  packed  together  in  a  mass,  advance 
gradually  downwards.  Sometimes  a  mass  or  a 
large  part  of  it  is  set  free  by  the  action  of  the  sun, 
and  precipitated  into  the  depths  below,  produc- 
ing a  roaring  like  the  sound  of  subterranean  thun- 
der. Avalanches  produce  the  same  loud  sounds, 
which  are  repeated  from  peak  to  peak,  creating 
a  wonderful  echo  among  the  Alps  ;  and  they  help 
the  glaciers  downward  in  their  descent.  These 
avalanches  have  sometimes  destroyed  houses  and 
villages,  overwhelming  them,  and  spreading  havoc 
and  desolation  on  land,  cattle  and  men,  for  many 
miles  around.\ 

The  natives  of  this  city  are  celebrated  for  their 
industry,  which  chiefly  consists  in  making  watches 
and  jewelry ;  nearly  4,000  persons  being  em- 
ployed in  this  city  in  making  watches  :  yet  these 
articles  can  be  purchased  in  Italy  far  cheaper 
than  in  Geneva.  I  saw  the  Cathedral  of  St. 


CATHEDRAL   OF   ST.    PETER.  165 

Peter,  finished  by  the  Emperor,  Conrad  II.,  in 
the  eleventh  century.  It  is  a  beautiful  and  pure 
Byzantine  structure,  but  last  century  it  was  dis- 
figured by  a  Corinthian  portico  in  imitation  of  the 
Pantheon  in  Rome.  This  church  contains  some 
very  fine  monuments.\ 

The  pulpit  is  the  same  from  which  Calvin 
preached.  I  contemplated  in  sad  silence,  how 
that  pulpit,  from  which  the  pure  doctrines  of 
Christ  had  been  taught  by  his  true  ministers, 
was  afterwards  disgraced  and  contaminated  by 
Calvin.  From  this  pulpit  he  vomited  forth  his 
bitter  blasphemies  and  heresies  ;  from  this  pulpit 
he  hurled  defiance  at  the  Catholic  Church  ;  from 
this  pulpit  he  established  the  religious  doctrines 
of  Puritanism,  which  soon  spread  in  France,  Ger- 
many and  England,  and  was  unfortunately  im- 
ported into  this  country  by  the  "  Mayflower."/ 

The  Church  is  a  Latin  cross,  divided  into  three 
naves  and  transepts.  I  stopped  to  look  upon  the 
place  where  once  stood  the  High  Altar,  upon 
which  the  Holy  Sacrifice  of  the  Mass  had  been  of- 
ten offered  to  the  Almighty,  but  at  the  time  there 
was  a  Calvinistic  minister  instructing  about  one 
hundred  grown  girls  to  receive  the  Calvinistic 
communion.  In  the  sadness  of  my  heart,  I  turned 
my  steps  in  the  direction  of  one  of  the  doors. 
The  sexton  asked  me  if  I  wished  to  see  anything 
more,  I  said,  "I  cannot  see  what  I  would  like  to 
see,  and  to  see  that,  I  must  go  to  the  Catholic 
Cathedral."  I  left  and  went  to  the  Cathedral  of 
Notre  Dame,  which  is  an  imposing  building,  all 


166  SWITZERLAND. 

finished  except  the  steeple,  which  when  completed, 
makes  it  the  best  church  in  the  city.  In  Geneva 
I  purchased  a  through  ticket  for  Florence,  whither 
I  sent  my  heavy  baggage.  I  was,  however,  noti- 
fied to  look  for  my  baggage  at  the  Italian  fron- 
tiers, in  order  to  have  it  inspected,  then  I  would 
find  it  at  Florence.  Geneva  and  its  immediate 
vicinity  are  remarkable  for  having  been  the  re- 
treat of  very  many  famous  characters,  such  as  Vol- 
taire, Calvin,  Cassaubon,  Rosseau,  Necker,  By- 
ron, Marie  Louise,  Josephine,  etc.\ 

I  left,  after  dinner,  in  an  Italian  steamer,  for 
Ouchy  by  the  Italian  shore  of  the  lake.  I  met 
many  Italians  on  board.  We  discovered  a  woman 
dressed  in  man's  clothes  who  was  going  to  Milan. 
We  passed  many  beautiful  villages,  where  the 
steamer  stopped  to  land  and  take  up  passengers. 
We  arrived  at  Ouchy,  which  is  the  port  of  Laus- 
anne, and  in  one  hour  we  were  in  Vevay,  a  highly 
attractive  town  of  7,000  inhabitants.  The  beauty 
and  delightful  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of 
this  place,  make  it  a  rendezvous  for  travelers. 
It  is  picturesquely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Gorge  of  the  Vevayse.  The  steamer  stopped  at 
Clarens,  which  commands  one  of  the  finest  views 
of  the  lake  and  mountains.  Forward  we  went  to 
Chillon,  well-known  for  its  castle,  and  soon  we 
arrived  at  Villeneuve,  where  I  took  the  cars  for 
MartignyA 

In  the  cars  and  at  this  place,  I  found  confirmed 
the  bad  news  which  I  had  already  heard  on 


AN    AMERICAN   GENTLEMAN.  167 

Lake  Leman,  that  the  cholera  was  raging  in  Italy. 
No  tourists  wanted  to  go  thither,  except  a  few 
who  were  to  visit  Venice.  I  was  obliged  to 
change  my  route  on  account  of  the  cholera,  which 
was  making  fearful  ravages  in  the  valley  of  Aos- 
ta.  I  understood  that  nearly  half  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  that  city  had  perished  by  that  direful 
plague.  My  intention  had  been  to  cross  the 
Alps  at  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  and  to  enter  Italy 
by  Aosta,  but  now  I  resolved  to  cross  the  Alps  by 
the  Simplon  pass.x 

In  the  cars  I  had  the  pleasure  to  meet  an 
American  gentleman  from  Boston,  and  his  lady, 
a  Parisian,  with  whom  I  had  made  acquaintance 
some  time  before  in  traveling.  We  were  all  glad 
to  see  each  other,  especially  as  we  were  going 
to  the  Great  St.  Bernard.  We  formed  in  one 
party,  and  stopped  at  the  same  hotel  in  Martigny, 
the  Hotel  de  la  Tour.  I  told  the  gentleman  to 
make  all  necessary  bargains  for  a  carriage  or 
char,  and  for  every  other  thing  which  might  be 
needed.  Martigny  is  a  small  Swiss  town  of  about 
2,000  inhabitants  ;  the  views  from  this  place  are 
most  beautiful.\ 

Next  morning  leaving  everything  at  the  hotel, 
except  a  very  small  valise,  and  after  a  good 
breakfast  we  started,  at  an  early  hour,  in  a  four- 
wheeled  conveyance.  The  ride  was  very  roman- 
tic, and  led  through  finely  cultivated  spots,  for- 
ests and  vineyards.  We  left  to  the  right  the 
Tete-noire,  the  famous  pass  which  leads  to  Mont 
Blanc,  and  crossing  at  one  time  perpendicular 


168  SWITZERLAND. 

chasms,  at  another  through  narrow  passes  be- 
tween two  mountains,  or  over  bridges  frightfully 
located  upon  tremendous  precipices,  we  made  the 
tortuous  and  winding  ascent  of  the  Alps  near 
Mont  Blanc.  Here  warring  torrents  leaped  down 
from  perpendicular  rocks,  and  glaciers,  reflecting 
the  beams  of  the  summer  sun,  dazzled  our  eyes. 
The  scenery  was  continually  changing,  according 
to  the  windings  of  the  road.  In  some  places  it 
was  oppressively  hot ;  at  others  it  was  uncomfort- 
ably chilly.  In  a  valley  we  could  perceive  the 
oppressive  effect  of  the  burning  summer  heat ; 
while  on  the  sides  of  mountains  our  eyes  were 
refreshed  by  luxuriously  flourishing  gardens. 
Higher  up,  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  exten- 
sive vineyards  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre, 
exhibited  an  abundance  of  golden  grapes,  under 
whose  weight  the  vines  were  bent  to  the  ground. 
Gradually  we  reached  the  snow  line,  where  the 
vegetation  was  poor  and  scanty  ;  and  the  face  of 
the  country  bore  quite  a  different  appearance.  We 
could  distinguish  the  diverse  degrees  of  temper- 
ature on  the  same  mountain.  We  passed  several 
Alpine  villages  ;  old  towns  improved  with  addi- 
tional houses  and  large  roofs  ;  cultivated  patches 
of  land  ;  small  fields  had  been  cultivated  with 
much  labor,  the  peasantry  attired  in  their  peculiar 
style  of  dress,  all  combined  to  make  a  lasting  im- 
pression on  our  minds. \ 

There  were  the  houses  that  sheltered  Napoleon 
I.,  when  he  crossed  the  Alps  the  first  time.  Many 
houses  claim  the  honor  of  having  being  occupied 


'ST.  PIERRE.  169 

by  him.  In  the  wretched  little  villages  of  Or- 
sieres  and  Liddes,  we  could  read  on  many  little 
houses  Hotel  de  Napoleon,  Maison  ou  Nwpoleon  a 
dejeune,  Hotel  ou  Napoleon  a  loge  !  But  above  all 
our  attention  was  especially  attracted  by  the  sight 
of  men  and  women  with  the  dreadful  affliction 
called  "  the  wen"  This  encysted  tumor  is  sup- 
posed to  be  caused  by  drinking  the  snow  water 
which  passes  through  crevices  of  the  mountains, 
and  becomes  impregnated  with  a  peculiar  salt ; 
yet  the  real  cause  is  not  positively  known.\ 

While  the  horse  was  feeding,  we  paid  a  visit 
to  the  Church  of  Orsieres,  a  venerable  and  ancient 
looking  building  which  is  reputed  to  be  the  oldest 
church  and  steeple  in  the  Valais  Canton.  All  the 
inhabitants  there  must  be  Catholics  as  there  are 
no  other  churches  but  Catholic.\ 

At  noon  we  stopped  at  St.  Pierre,  a  small  and 
wretched  village,  but  venerable  for  its  antiquity  ; 
and  at  this  place  we  took  dinner,  which  appeared 
to  be  equally  worthy  of  the  veneration  due  to  age  ; 
for  the  manner  in  which  it  was  prepared  and  serv- 
ed savored  of  a  style  belonging  to  a  primitive  age  ; 
yet  amongst  the  Alps  it  was  considered  a  good 
dinner  ;  but  the  Swiss  wine  was  indeed  excellent. 
There  were  many  other  travelers  going  and  com- 
ing from  St.  Bernard,  and  generally  all  stop- 
ped at  this  tavern.  At  dinner  we  had  the  com- 
pany of  an  English  army  officer  and  his  daughter. 
He  had  been  in  the  Crimean  war  and  was  rather 
advanced  in  age.  I  offered  him  some  brandy 
which  I  had  purchased  at  Strasbourg,  and  which 


170  SWITZERLAND. 

I  carried  with  me  in  a  flask,  but  lie  had  some  with 
him.     It  is  customary  and    necessary   to  carry 
some  brandy  in  ascending  the  top  of  the  Alps. 
After  dinner  we  conversed   together  seated  on 
logs,  rocks,  and  on  the  shafts  of  the  carriages,  in 
the  street,  while  the  vetturinos  were  harnessing 
the  horses.     A  young  American  gentleman  ar- 
rived in  a  large  double-seated  wagon ;   he  was 
alone  except  the  driver.     The  ladies,  on  seeing 
him,  turned  to  each  other  laughing  slyly,  saying, 
"  Ob,  yes,  he  has  shaved !  indeed  he  has  shaved !" 
Two  young  English  ladies  hastened  to  us  and  smil- 
ing, said,  "How  misprable  he  looks,  alone  in  that 
big  vacant  wagon  !"     The  English  officer  and  his 
daughter  replied,  "  But  indeed  he  has  shaved  !" 
I  could  not  understand  what  they  were  aiming  at, 
and  could  only  turn  in  bewilderment  from  one  to 
the  other  with  a  kind  of  inquiring  smile,  and  won- 
der what  they  meant,  without  uttering  a  word. 
The  ladies,  perceiving  that  I  did  not  know  why 
they  were  laughing,  told  me  that  in  Martigny  the 
English  officer  and  his  daughter  had  requested  the 
American  gentleman  to  let  them  join  him  in  a  par- 
ty, and  ride  together  in  the  large,  big  wagon,  which 
the  American  had  already  engaged,  they  having 
not  yet  hired  any.     He  refused,  saying  that  "  he 
had  to  shave,"  but  in  reality  he  wanted  to  take 
the    two    young    English  ladies,  but   they  hav- 
ing heard  that  he  had  rejected  the  company  of  the 
officer  and  lady,  refused  to  accept  his  offer,  when 
he  proposed  to  take  them  in  his  wagon  ;  so  he  re- 
mained alone. \ 


ST.    BERNARD.  171 

All  uiet  here  in  this  little  tavern.  He  recog- 
nised everybody,  but  refused  to  talk  to  any  one  of 
them,  by  which  action  he  rendered  himself  ridicu- 
lous ;  he  got  in  very  bad  humor  ;  altogether,  he 
put  on  airs  as  if  he  was  the  President  of  the  Uni- 
ted States.  At  dinner  he  got  into  trouble  with  a 
lady.  The  Boston  gentleman  in  my  company  was 
ashamed  of  him,  and  so  was  I  myself,  and  we  apol- 
ogized for  him  to  the  English  gentleman  and  ladies 
in  our  company,  but  none  felt  any  desire  to  admit 
him  into  our  company  ;  yet  they  did  not  pass  any 
remarks  against  the  Americans,  but  on  the  con- 
trary considered  him  an  odd  traveler  disgracing 
his  country.  Soon  after  dinner  he  departed  alone  ; 
a  subject  of  amusement  to  the  whole  company. 
The  next  day,  at  the  Hospice  of  the  Great  St. 
Bernard,  he  got  into  trouble  again  with  another  la- 
dy, and  when  leaving  we  saw  him  quarreling  with 
another  lady  and  guide  about  a  saddle  ;  he  was  a 
disagreeable,  pompous  fellow,  all  the  time  boasting 
about  America,  and  abusing  England,  but  no  per- 
son took  any  notice  of  him.\ 

Now,  we  all  started  for  the  top  of  the  Pass,  the 
road  becoming  more  steep,  the  vegetation  more 
scanty,  the  mountain  more  barren,  and  the  gla- 
ciers more  abundant.  We  passed  through  a  larch 
forest,  and  below  we  could,  see,  at  a  distance,  the 
course  of  the  Drance.  We  reached  the  Cantine 
du  Praz,  a  rough  inn  where  the  carriage  road  ends, 
and  the  rest  of  the  way,  about  eight  miles,  must 
be  traveled  on  foot  or  on  mules  ;  we  preferred  to 
walk,  the  lady  in  our  company  not  excepted  ;  the 


172  SWITZERLAND. 

daughter  of  the  English  officer  rode  on  a  mule. 
We  traversed  a  large  plain  above  which  is  the 
glacier  of  Menou,  topped  by  the  lofty  peak  of 
Mont  Velan.  The  path  now  became  bad,  steep, 
rocky  and  laborious  ;  there  were  only  a  few  ref- 
uges. These  refuges  are  small  stone  buildings  to 
shelter  travelers  caught  in  snow  storms.  They  are 
found  in  nearly  all  passes  of  the  Alps,  at  a  short 
distance  from  each  other.  We  had  passed  the  line 
of  vegetation,  and  there  was  no  appearance  of  any 
tree,  or  shrub,  but  only  a  few  wild  alpine  flowers 
and  plants  could  be  seen  for  some  distance,  and 
they  also  soon  disappeared,  and  nothing  else  was 
visible  except  barren  rocks  and  grotesque  summits 
of  mountains.  No  warbling  of  birds  broke  the 
awful  silence  of  this  vast  solitude,  the  melancholy 
of  which  was  increased  by  the  roaring  of  the  foam- 
ing torrents,  which,  emerging  from  wild  glaciers, 
rushed  impetuously  down  precipices.  Lofty  rocky 
mountains  scarcely  allowed  us  to  see  the  sky,  and 
when,  after  immense  toil  and  fatigue,  we  arrived 
at  the  top  of  the  mountain,  we  perceived  that  we 
had  only  reached  the  base  of  another  still  higher, 
and  had  come  in  sight  of  other  glaciers.x 

The  ascent  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  struck  me 
with  no  other  impression  but  that  of  dreadful 
desolation.  The  lady  in  our  company  being 
fatigued,  we  were  left  behind  by  the  others,  which 
was  a  painful  circumstance,  because  we  had  heard 
that  at  the  Hospice  there  was  a  large  crowd  of 
visitors,  and,  arriving  late,  we  had  poor  hopes 
of  a  comfortable  lodging.  In  turning  one  of  the 


ST.    BERNARD.  173 

angles  of  the  steep  and  winding  path,  I  discovered 
my  friend,  the  English  officer,  who,  seated  on  a 
rock,  was  hallooing  for  me.  I  hastened  to  him  : 
"Well,  my  friend,"  said  he,  "I  stand  in  need  of 
your  flask.  I  did  not  think  that  it  was  so  labori- 
ous. I  see  that  now,  on  account  of  my  age,  I 
cannot  do  what  I  formerly  could,  I  cannot  go  fur- 
ther without  something  from  that  (pointing  to  my 
flask) ;  mine  is  all  out."  I  welcomed  him  to  it, 
and  he  felt  much  relieved,  and  able  to  prosecute 
the  ascent  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard.\ 

About  three  miles  before  we  reached  the  Hos- 
pice, (which  is  not  visible  either  from  the  Swiss 
or  from  the  Italian  side  till  you  are  up  to  it)  at  a 
great  distance  from  the  top  of  a  mountain,  on  our 
right,  we  perceived  some  persons  descending  from 
the  Alps.  In  less  than  twenty  minutes  they  were 
near  us.  They  were  resident  students  or  novices 
of  St.  Bernard,  who  had  been  taking  a  walk  on 
the  summit  of  the  Alps,  and  were  returning  home.\ 

I  was  surprised  at  the  facility  with  which  they 
ascended  and  descended.  I  introduced  myself  to 
them,  and  requested  them  to  bespeak  in  my  name, 
from  the  Superior  of  St.  Bernard,  a  lodging  for  us 
three,  as  we  would  not  arrive  at  the  Hospice  un- 
til late,  on  account  of  the  lady  who  was  with  us. 
They  very  kindly  promised  to  do  so,  and  by  all 
means  insisted  on  carrying  our  little  valises,  in 
order  to  lighten  our  burdens  ;  but  I  could  not 
permit  myself  to  impose  so  much  on  their  kind- 
ness. I  was  requested  by  the  lady  to  procure  for 
them  a  comfortable  place  for  the  night.  They 
11 


174  SWITZERLAND. 

knew  that  I  was  a  priest,  as  I  always  introduce 
myself  as  such,  and  would  scorn  the  thought  of 
introducing  myself  under  any  other  character.\ 

We  arrived  at  the  summit  of  the  Pass  just  as 
the  sun  was  setting.  The  Superior,  a  venerable 
old  prelate  and  Abbot,  wearing  the  pectoral  cross, 
like  a  bishop,  met  me  at  the  door,  with  that  kind- 
ness and  hospitality  which,  as  the  whole  world 
knows,  is  ever  to  be  found  in  this  Hospice.  No 
man,  whether  rich  or  poor,  Catholic  or  Protestant, 
Heathen  or  Christian,  has  ever  pulled  the  bell  of 
that  Hospice  in  vain.  Nationality  or  religion  is 
never  asked  ;  the  door  is  open  to  everybody.  The 
Superior  had  prepared  for  me  the  room  in  which 
Napoleon  I.  lodged  when  he  crossed  the  Alps 
with  his  army  for  the  first  time.  He  told  me  that 
for  the  other  two  persons  he  would  give  accom- 
modations as  well  as  circumstances  would  allow. 
The  house  was  crowded.  There  were  over  eighty 
visitors  of  nearly  every  nation,  denomination  and 
character.  I  said  to  the  Superior  that  I  would 
give  up  the  room  destined  for  me  to  those  two 
persons  in  my  company,  and  would  sleep  some- 
where with  the  Religious.  He  felt  satisfied  with 
this  arrangement,  and  shortly  after  my  friends 
arrived,  and  I  conducted  them  to  the  room,  with 
which  they  were  much  pleased.x 

The  Hospice  was  full  of  visitors,  drivers,  guides, 
mules,  and  horses,  and  every  one  was  taken  care 
of.  The  kitchen  was  in  a  continuous  state  of  ac- 
tivity, and  the  long  tables  of  the  large  refectory, 
after  being  once  vacated,  were  again  and  again 


ST.    BERNARD.  175 

prepared  in  succession,  in  order  to  accommodate 
all  visitors  as  they  arrived.  A  number  of  servants 
waited  on  us  at  table,  and  several  Fathers  were 
present  to  see  that  every  one  was  properly  at- 
tended, and  the  Fathers  themselves  also  assisted 
at  table.  Here  my  friends  sat  around  me  at  table. 
The  English  officer  turned  to  me,  and  said,  in  a 
low  voice:  "Friend,  two  more  favors  I  will  ask 
from  you :  my  flask  is  empty,  and  I  could  not 
manage  to  descend  the  mountain  without  it ;  my 
daughter*  is  not  well,  and  I  would  wish  to  have 
some  meat  for  her.'7  I  said,  as  to  his  first  request, 
I  would  attend  to  it ;  but,  for  the  second,  it  was 
not  possible  on  that  day,  because,  being  Friday, 
no  meat  was  allowed.  "But  please  try  it,"  he 
replied.  "  I  will  do  it,"  I  said  ;  but  I  knew  there 
was  no  need  of  meat,  because,  if  she  was  well 
enough  to  ascend  the  Alps,  she  could  not  be  so 
sick  as  to  require  meat.  I  spoke  to  one  of  the 
Fathers,  who  understood  well  that  there  was  no 
necessity  for  it,  and  said  :  "Ilfaut  apprendre  en- 
core la  mortification"  (They  must  learn  also 
mortification.)  \ 

The  young  American  gentleman  happened  to  sit 
at  supper,  at  the  same  table  with  us.  He  kept  si- 
lence never  looking  at  us.  There  was  no  tea  ;  but 
he  asked  for  some,  and  a  large,  full  tea-pot  was 
brought  to  him.  The  ladies  near  me  asked 
him  to  give  some  of  it  to  them,  but  he  very  rudely 
refused.  I  told  the  servant  to*  take  away  the  tea- 
pot from  him  and  bring  it  to  me.  I  spoke  in 
French,  in  order  that  the  American  might  not  un- 
derstand me.  The  servant  took  away  the  tea-pot 


176  SWITZERLAND. 

from  him,  and  brought  it  to  us,  causing  some  won- 
der and  mortification  to  the  American  gentleman, 
and  satisfaction  to  the  ladies,  who  relished  the  tea 
very  much.  In  that  pot  there  was  tea  enough  for 
a  dozen  persons.  After  supper  we  had  a  conver- 
sation round  a  large  fire.  There  I  again  learned 
of  the  ravages  that  the  cholera  had  made  and  was 
making  in  the  Valley  of  Aosta.  Ten  thousand 
had  died,  and  nearly  half  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
City  of  Aosta  had  perished  by  this  dreadful  dis- 
ease. These  Fathers  had  attended  the  sick,  and 
they  have  also  the  spiritual  charge  of  the  Catho- 
lics near  the  valley  and  Martigny.  The  Abbot 
is  the  General  of  the  Order,  and  has  Episcopal 
jurisdiction.  He  resides  at  Martigny,  but  at  pres- 
ent he  was  making  his  visit  to  St.  Bernard.\ 

Next  morning  I  said  Mass  in  the  Chapel,  which 
is  fine  and  neat.  It  has  marble  altars,  and  other 
fine  marble  monuments.  After  breakfast,  I  visited 
the  Mountain  Pass  and  Hospice.  The  mountain, 
or  Mont  Velan,  on  the  top  of  which  runs  the 
boundary  line  between  the  Yalais  and  Piedmont, 
is  11,000  feet  high,  but  the  Pass  is  about  8,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  most  elevated 
part  of-  the  passage  is  a  long  and  narrow  valley, 
the  middle  of  which  is  occupied  by  a  lake.  At 
the  extremity  of  the  lake  stands  the  Hospice,  built 
on  the  site  of  the  ancient  redoubt  of  Stoleure,  and 
at  its  opposite  side,  toward  Italy  and  Mount  Joux, 
is  the  Place  of  Jupiter,  a  small  plain  where  once 
stood  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Appinus.  The  other 
pass,  the  Little  St.  Bernard,  over  which  Hannibal 


ST.    BERNARD,  177 

directed  his  march,  is  about  the  same  height  of 
that  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  on  the  road  that 
leads  over  the  Grison  Alps.  The  Little  St.  Ber- 
nard was  built  on  the  site  called  Colonne  Joux, 
from  a  pillar  which  was  an  object  of  idolatry.  At 
present  this  Pass  is  nearly  abandoned.  Bernard 
de  Menthon,  a  nobleman,  and  Count  of  Savoy,  in 
the  year  962,  demolished  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  and 
the  Pillar,  Colonne  Joux,  and  with  its  materials 
built  two  Hospices,  one  on  the  Pass  Great  St. 
Bernard,  the  other  on  the  Pass  leading  to  the 
Grison  Alps,  the  Little  St.  Bernard.  This  true 
philanthropist  governed  this  convent  for  twenty 
years,  watching  and  entertaining  the  numerous 
travelers  that  every  year  pass  from  Switzerland 
into  Italy,  and  the  pilgrims  journeying  to  Rome. 
He  died  in  the  year  1008. \ 

The  convent  accommodates  20,000  persons  and 
several  thousand  mules  during  the  year  ;  they  can 
stay  three  days  without  giving  compensation  ;  al- 
though in  the  chapel  of  the  convent  there  is  a 
contribution  box  where  they  can  put  what  they 
like  ;  they  should  give  the  same  amount  that 
they  would  pay  at  a  hotel.\ 

This  famous  convent,  or  Hospice  of  the  Great 
St.  Bernard,  is  a  large,  regular,  and  gloom}7  mass 
of  gray  stone  buildings,  and  is  the  highest  in- 
habited place  in  Europe.  Here  there  is  scarcely 
any  summer,  but  an  everlasting  winter  reigns 
throughout  the  year.  In  vain  did  I  look  for  a 
tree  or  bush  ;  my  eyes  were  dazzled  by  a  dreary 
expanse  of  monotonous  snow.  The  building  is 


178  SWITZERLAND. 

exposed  on  its  north-east  and  south-west  sides,  to 
every  storm,  but  sheltered  on  the  north-west  side 
by  Mont  Chenelletaz  and  Mont  Mort.  The 
chief  building  has  eighty  beds  for  the  use  of  visitors 
or  travelers,  and  is  capable  of  affording  shelter  to 
over  300  persons.  Some  days  as  many  as  600  or 
700  receive  aid  and  succor.  Independent  of  this 
building  there  is,  on  the  other  side  of  the  way, 
a  house  of  refuge,  the  Hotel  de  St.  Louis,  a  build- 
ing erected  in  case  of  fire,  the  Hospice  having 
once  been  burned  down  in  1552,  when  a  number 
of  valuable  documents  were  destroyed  in  the 
flames.\ 

I  walked  over  into  Italian  territory,  and  when 
I  put  foot  on  my  native  soil  for  the  first  time,  after 
twenty-four  years'  absence,  I  could  not  realize  it ! 
I  thought  I  dreamed,  and  in  my  dream  trod 
once  more  the  soil  of  beauteous  Italy,  after  the 
chill  and  desolation  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard.  I 
could  exclaim  in  the  language  of  the  Poet— 

Oil  Patria,  dolce  amata  Patria ! 
Alfin  a  te  ritorno ! 
lo  ti  saluto  cara  ; 
Terra  degli  Avi  miei  ! 

"  Oh  native  country  ! 
Sweet  and  beloved  native  country ! 
At  last  I  come  back  to  thee  ; 
I  salute  thee,  dear  land  of  my  forefathers  !"\ 

I  walked  for  some  distance  descending  on  the 
Italian  side  of  the  mountain  which  is  justly  called 
a  most  romantic,  rugged,  and  desolate  piece  of 
scenery.  I  walked  back  into  Switzerland,  and 
returned  to  the  convent.  There  are  nine  or  ten 


ST.    BERNARD.  179 

ecclesiastics  belonging  to  the  Regular  Canons  of 
the  St.  Augustine  Order,  who  periodically  sacrifice 
their  lives  to  give  assistance  to  their  fellow  men. 
From  year  to  year  they  hunt  upon  the  barren 
tops  of  the  Alps,  amidst  perpetual  snows,  frightful 
storms  and  heart-rending  desolation  ;  yet  they 
are  cheerful  and  happy.  They  have  no  preten- 
sions ;  they  make  no  boasts  ;  they  write  no  articles 
to  publish  in  newspapers  to  show  exaggerated  and 
spurious  good  works.  They  love  nothing  else  but 
God  and  their  fellow  creatures  ;  making  no  dis- 
tinction, on  account  of  creed,  color  or  nation. 
They  expect  reward  from  no  one  but  G-od.  The  so- 
called  Reformation  deprived  them  of  most  of  their 
property,  and  what  was  left  was  seized  during  the 
Revolution  of  1848  ;  and  these  good,  hospitable 
Augustinian  Fathers  were  obliged  to  remove  from 
the  convent.  Good  monks,  is  this  the  manner  in 
which  the  world  has  repaid  you  for  your  hospi- 
tality, and  the  sacrifice  of  your  lives  ?  Yes  !  this 
was  the  good  work  of  the  Reformation  of  the  Holy 
Patriarchs,  Luther,  Calvin,  and  their  kindred 
rascals.  This  was  the  fruit  of  philanthropy  in 
the  year  1848.  But  the  travelers  across  the 
mountains  cried  aloud  for  their  restoration,  which 
was  speedily  accomplished.  I  believe  that  their 
entire  landed  property  was  also  returned  to  them. 
These  good  monks  cannot  remain  over  twelve  or 
fifteen  years  on  these  desolate  Alpine,  summits, 
but,  disabled  by  rheumatism  they  retire  down  the 
valley  to  Martigny  or  the  convent  on  the  Simplon. 
Every  stick  of  wood  which  they  burn,  and  every 


180  SWITZERLAND. 

mouthful  of  bread  that  they  eat,  must  be  brought 
up  from  a  distance  of  twelve  miles  down  below 
in  the  valley,  and  it  must  be  carried  on  horses  or 
mules  ;  hence  what  immense  trouble  and  expense.\ 

The  Hospice  maintains  about  fifty  horses  to 
carry  wood.  In  summer  they  keep  plenty  of  cows 
in  order  to  have  fresh  milk,  butter,  etc.  ;  they 
receive  fresh  meat  from  the  valley,  but  they  lay 
up  a  store  of  salted  meats  for  the  winter,  at  which 
time  they  send  all  the  cows  but  one  to  Martigny. 
Summer,  if  it  can  be  called  so,  lasts  only  two  or 
three  months.  They  plant  nothing  because  there 
is  no  heat  sufficient  to  ripen  anything :  then  where 
could  they  plant?  There  is  nothing  there  but 
naked  rocks,  the  most  of  the  time  covered  with 
snow  ;  the  winter  is  very  long,  and  the  cold  is 
excessive. \ 

I  saw  the  famous  dogs  of  St.  Bernard ;  they 
were  six  or  seven  in  number,  and  are  a  cross  be- 
tween the  Newfoundland  and  the  Pyrenean  ;  they 
do  not  live  more  than  seven  years  when  they 
become  rheumatic,  and  are  killed.  They  were  lying 
on  the  ground  outside  of  the  Hospice,  loose  and  ap- 
parently sleeping.  These  world-renowned  dogs 
are  so  well  trained  that  every  year  they  save  the 
lives  of  a  considerable  number  of  travelers.  In 
the  midst  of  tempests  and  snow  storms,  when  the 
Alpine  blasts  tear  up  rocks  and  shake  the  moun- 
tains ;  when  amidst  avalanches  of  snow  and  ice, 
rushing  down  with  terrible  roaring,  and  thunder- 
ing mercilessly,  carrying  along  rocks,  trees  and 
bouses  that  may  be  in  the  way,  the  frightened  and 


ST.    BERNARD.  181 

weary  traveler  pelted  by  the  pitiless  storm,  vainly 
endeavors  to  plow  a  bottomless  drift  of  snow,  and 
to  brave  the  storm  ;  he  lives  to  find  a  shelter  in 
the  nearest  refuge,  or  falls  down  exhausted  in 
the  snow.\ 

The  refuges  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  are  few  and 
unprovided  ;  last  year  three  persons  perished  in 
one  of  them  ;  they  were  found  frozen  to  death.  I 
visited  the  only  refuge  on  the  Swiss  side,  and  it 
had  human  bones  scattered  all  around  ;  the  bones 
of  persons  who  had  perished  there.  The  refuges 
of  the  Simplon  are  good  and  well  provided.  In 
the  midst  of  these  Alpine  tempests  and  snow 
storms,  the  monks  accompanied  by  the  dogs  (call- 
ed marons),  set  out  for  the  purpose  of  tracking 
those  who  may  have  lost  their  way.  These  dogs, 
aroused  by  the  howling  of  the  storm,  rush  madly 
down  the  mountain-side,  plunging  into  deep  snow 
drifts,  so  that  their  whole  bodies  are  lost  sight  of 
up  to  their  tails,  seeking  amongst  the  drifts  and 
rocks  for  the  perishing  traveler.  With  a  bottle 
in  a  basket  secured  around  the  neck,  they  afford 
them  timely  assistance  and  refreshment,  and  by 
a  peculiar  howl  signify  to  the  monks,  who  fol- 
low them,  where  -a  traveler  is  in  distress.  Some- 
times travelers  are  obliged  to  remain  the  entire 
night  in  the  refuge  till  next  morning,  when  a 
servant  of  the  convent,  with  a  dog,  goes  down  and 
conducts  the  party  through  the  snow,  which  in 
some  places  is  thirty  feet  deep.\ 

The  dogs  never  miss  their  way.     If  they  find  the 
body  of  a  traveler  who  has  perished,  the  monks 


182  SWITZERLAND. 

carry  it  into  the  Morgue  of  the  dead,  where  it  is 
placed  against  the  wall,  in  the  same  position  and  in 
the  same  clothes  in  which  it  was  found.  He  re- 
mains there  amongst  the  other  dead  bodies,  which, 
on  account  of  the  great  cold,  decay  very  slowly, 
in  order  that  they  may  be  recognized  by  their 
friends  ;  which,  sometimes,  after  many  years,  may 
chance  to  be  the  case.  In  time  they  fall  to  pieces, 
after  having  dried  up  and  withered,  and  their 
bones  and  skulls  may  be  seen  scattered  around.x 

I  visited  this  Morgue,  and  it  is  certainly  a  fright- 
ful sight  to  see  the  dead  bodies  standing  up  or  lay- 
ing in  the  exact  position  in  which  they  were  found, 
and  with  the  same  clothes.  One  with  a  shawl 
covering  his  head  and  arms,  as  if  trying  to  keep 
himself  warm  ;  another  in  a  walking  position,  as 
if  endeavoring  to  drag  himself  along  through  the 
snow  ;  another  with  both  hands  near  his  mouth  as 
trying  to  warm  them  with  his  breath  ;  another 
in  a  sleeping  position  ;  one  with  his  eyes  fright- 
fully open  and  gazing  at  you  ;  another  with  his 
head  and  eyes  turned  to  heaven  as  if  breathing  a 
prayer.  The  sight  is  so  shocking  that  it  requires 
strong  nerves  to  look  at  it.\ 

I  saw  four  Italians  who  were  found  last  year. 
I  understand  that  they  had  started  together  from 
the  Cantine  de  Praz  late  on  the  afternoon,  in  a 
snow  storm,  and  expected  to  reach  the  Hospice  in 
the  evening.  They  were  notified  not  to  venture 
to  walk  eight  miles  on  the  Alps  in  a  snow  storm. 
They  undertook  the  journey  and  all  perished. 
Next  day  they  were  found  frozen,  and  buried  in 


ST.    BERNARD.  183 

the   snow  ;   one  of  them  not  far  from   the  Hos- 
pice.\ 

Adjoining  this  Morgue  is  a  kind  of  burying 
ground  where  the  bones  are  deposited  when  they 
accumulate  too  much.  It  is  impossible  to  bury 
them  because  there  is  nothing  around  the  Hospice 
but  the  naked  rocks.  I  visited  the  convent,  in 
company  with  my  friends  ;  the  ground  floor  is  de- 
voted to  store-rooms  and  stabling.  Refectory, 
drawing-room,  dormitories  and  offices  are  located 
on  the  other  floors.  There  is  a  large  library,  and 
a  cabinet  in  which  there  is  a  fine  collection  of  an- 
tiquities, minerals  (especially  from  the  Alps,) 
plants,  arms,  insects,  and  many  relics  and  coins 
from  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Appinus  that  once 
stood  here.  In  the  church  I  saw  the  marble  mon- 
ument erected  upon  the  grave  of  General,  Desaix. 
It  represents  Desaix,  in  relief,  wounded  and  fall- 
ing from  his  horse  into  the  arms  of  his  aid,  Le 
Brun.  "  I  will  give  you  the  Alps  for  your  monu- 
ment," said  Napoleon  to  his  dying  General,  after 
the  battle  of  Marengo.  "  You  shall  rest  on  their 
loftiest  inhabited  point,  in  the  church  of  St.  Ber- 
nard, and  the  monks  of  St.  Bernard  will  be  your 
guardians."  On  the  stairs  stands  his  statue  in  mar- 
ble. Opposite  to  it  there  is  a  slab  of  marble  on 
which  the  Canton  of  Yalais  commemorated  Napo- 
leon's passage,  with  heavy  artillery  and  munitions, 
over  the  St.  Bernard,  May  15th,  1800,  with  an 
inscription  in  letters  of  gold.  This  place  is  cele- 
brated also  for  having  witnessed  the  military  ex- 
pedition of  Charlemagne  and  of  Francis  I.\ 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE   ALPS. 

DESCENT   FROM  THE    GREAT   ST.    BERNARD SIGN VALLEY    OF    THE    RHONE 

MONT  ROSA ASCENT  OF  THE    ALPS  BY  THE   8IMPLON HOSPICE  AT    THE   SIMPLON 

PASS DESCENT  FROM  THE  SIMPLON — ITALIAN  FRONTIER — ITALY DOMO    D'OSSO- 

LA PROCESSION LAGO    MAGGIORE — BORROMEAN   ISLANDS ST.     CHARLES    BOR- 

ROMEO ALEXANDRIA GENOA — NEYVE.\ 

\WE  bid  a  hearty  farewell  to  the  good,  hospitable, 
heroic  ecclesiastics  of  St.  Bernard,  and  on  foot  de- 
scended the  mountain  with  less  toil,  and  in  short- 
er time  than  we  did  in  ascending  it.  At  the  Can- 
tine  duPraz,v?e  took  our  dinner,  and  conveyances, 
and  returned  to  Martigny.  There  I  left  my  friends, 
who  were  afraid  to  go  to  Italy  on  account  of  the 
cholera  that  prevailed  in  many  Italian  cities.  So 
I  again  found  myself  alone,  yet  I  would  not  com- 
mence the  ascent  of  the  Alps  without  seeing  the 
wondrous  gorge  of  the  Trient,  which  is  one  of  the 
most  marvellous  objects  in  Switzerland,  the  splen- 
did water-fall  of  Pissevache  ;  the  snow  crowned 
Dent  du  Midi,  the  Dent  de  Morcles,  and  other  na- 
tural curiosities  of  Switzerland.x 

I  took  the  cars  at  Martigny,  and  the  ride  along 
the  Rhone  was  indeed  romantic.  In  the  evening 
we  reached  Sion,  the  terminus  of  the  railway  on 
the  Siinplon  road.  I  stopped  at  the  Hotel  Lion 

(184) 


MONT   ROSA.  185 

cFOr,  a  good  and  reasonable  hotel.  Sionis  a  small 
and  old  town,  remarkable  for  nothing  except 
the  remains  of  three  old  castles,  once  the  resi- 
dences of  bishops,  who  lived  in  feudal  style  and 
splendor.  They  are  now  in  a  dilapidated  condi- 
tion, and  give  cause  to  much  criticism  among  the 
inhabitants.x 

Next  day  I  continued  my  journey,  by  a  dili- 
gence, which  connects  Sion  with  Arona,  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Italian  railway  on  Lago  Maggiore. 
The  diligences  on  the  Simplon  road  are  large,  con- 
venient, and  well  conducted.  I  rode  along  the 
valley  of  the  Rhone,  having  the  river  on  our  right, 
and  at  a  distance  we  could  see  the  majestic  snow- 
capped Mont  Rosa,  which  is  only  200  feet  lower 
than  Mont  Blanc  ;  these  chains  of  the  Alps  sepa- 
rate the  Yalais  from  Italy.  Mont  Rosa  is  the 
extremity  of  the  Pennine  Alps,  from  Col  de  Bon 
Homme  by  Mont  Blanc,  and  the  Great  St.  Ber- 
nard ;  and  Mont  Rosa  is  the  beginning  of  the 
Lepontine  or  Helvetian  Alps,  through  the  Simplon 
by  St.  Gothard  to  the  Muschelhorn.  Mont  Rosa 
derives  its  name  from  a  number  of  lofty  peaks, 
rising  from  a  centre  somewhat  like  the  leaves  of  a 
rose  ;  it  is  the  father  of  an  immense  number  of  gla- 
ciers. On  the  left  we  had  the  front  of  the  lofty  Alps 
of  Bern.  At  Leuk  we  changed  horses.  We  met 
another  diligence  going  to  the  dangerous  and 
steep  Pass  of  Gemini,  which  is  close  to  this  vil- 
lage. At  this  place,  I  and  a  finely  educated  Aus- 
trian officer  and  his  daughter  were  the  only  trav- 
elers, so  we  had  the  entire  diligence  at  our 
disposal.x 


186  THE   ALPS. 

This  is  the  great  military  road  built  by  Napo- 
leon I.,  who  was  continually  asking,  while  it  was 
in  course  of  construction,  "  How  is  the  road  get- 
ting along  ?  when  can  my  cannons  go  over  it  ?" 
We  ascended  the  Alps  gently  till  we  reached  the 
little  village  of  Brigue  ;  there  we  crossed  the 
Rhone,  and,  taking  a  sharp  turn  to  the  right,  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  mountain.  This  milita- 
ry road  by  long  zigzags  is  not  too  steep  for  the 
heaviest  wagons  to  pass  without  danger.  On  the 
right  we  had  a  full  view  of  the  handsome  covered 
wooden  bridge  thrown  across  the  Saltine,  a  river 
larger  than  the  Rhone,  with  which  it  unites.  On 
the  Simplon  road  there  are  twenty-four  refuges, 
situated  at  equal  distances  between  Brieg  and 
Domo  d'Ossola ;  they  contain  several  cantoniers 
and  their  families,  whose  duty  it  is  to  keep  the 
road  in  repair,  and  give  assistance  to  storm  stayed 
travelers.  Every  refuge  is  supplied  with  a  large 
bell,  which  is  rung  at  intervals  in  foggy  weather, 
to  direct  the  traveler  to  the  refuge.  This  bell  is 
also  used  for  calling  together  the  cantoniers  when 
an  avalanche  has  covered  the  road  with  snow.\ 

After  skirting  some  fearful  precipices,  the  road 
ascends  by  bold  and  romantic  windings  through 
gloomy  forests  of  Alpine  firs  to  the  first  and 
second  refuges.  We  passed  over  precipices  and 
through  several  galleries  hewn  in  the  rocks  and 
lighted  by  openings  ;  several  times  we  alighted 
and,  gazing  from  the  openings  of  the  galleries,  en- 
joyed the  views  of  lovely  valleys  adorned  with 
cottages,  and  above  the  dark  forests  of  pine,  ex- 


GRANDEUR   OF   THE   SCENERY.  187 

tensive  glistening  glaciers,  peaks  covered  with 
snow  shining  in  the  blue  sky  ;  mountains  piled 
upon  mountains,  the  Jungfrau  towering  above 
the  rest.  We  passed  over  bridges  thrown  over 
tremendous  precipices  from  one  mountain  to  an- 
other. Beyond  the  first  gallery  there  is  a  bridge 
eighty  feet  in  height,  spanning  the  Kan  tar.  \ 

The  scenery  from  this  bridge  is  frightful,  and 
awfully  savage  ;  but  the  grandeur  is  imposing  and 
sublime  beyond  description.  We  arrived  at  the 
Post  Inn  of  Berisal,  (third  refuge).  Here  we 
could  perceive  fearful  ravines  and  avalanches  on 
which  account  the  road  is  necessarily  very  wind- 
ing. Roaring  torrents  went  leaping  down  the 
whole  mountains,  in  several  plunges,  some  cross- 
ing the  road,  others  vaulting  over  the  Pass  which 
we  were  traveling.  After  the  fourth  refuge  the 
road  is  lined  by  larches  mixed  with  firs,  and  the 
number  and  beauty  of  the  cascades  is  large  and 
grand.  Here  by  a  handsome  winding  road  the 
fifth  refuge  is  attained,  which  stands  on  an  emi- 
nence much  exposed  to  violent  gusts  of  wind.\ 

Here  no  flowers  are  to  be  found  ;  soon  all  trees 
cease  to  blossom,  and  shortly  after  vegetation 
ceases  to  exist.  Here  a  long  and  dreary  gallery 
leads  from  this  scene  of  desolation  to  the  glacier 
Grotto  150  feet  long,  and  we  arrived  at  the  sixth 
refuge,  and  the  borders  where  toll  is  taken. 
Here  the  cold  increased,  no  vegetation  met  the 
traveler's  eye  ;  but  dreariness  and  barren  rocks 
and  desolation  surrounded  us  on  every  side. 
From  these  indications  we  perceived  that  we 


188  THE   ALPS. 

were  approaching  the  summit  of  the  Simplon 
pass.  A  little  above  this  is  a  large  wooden 
cross,  indicating  the  culminating  point  of  the 
pass  which  is  6,500  feet  high.  From  this  point 
we  could  see  the  Bernese  Alps,  and  discern 
the  Glacier  of  Aletsch.\ 

The  diligence  stopped  long  enough  to  give  us 
an  opportunity  to  see  the  Hospice  ;  we  could  not 
accept  a  kind  invitation  from  the  good  monks  to 
take  a  lunch.  They  are  a  part  of  those  belonging 
to  the  Great  St.  Bernard.  This  Hospice  was  left 
unfinished  by  Napoleon  I.,  and  was  sold  for  15,900 
francs  by  the  government  of  the  Canton  of  Valais 
to  the  Fathers  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  in  1824, 
and  was  completed  by  them.\ 

This  Hospice  contains  a  chapel,  refectory,  a 
drawing-room,  and  several  bed-rooms,  and  accom- 
modates about  15,000  travelers  every  year,  in  the 
same  manner  as  at  the  Great  St.  Bernard.  The 
convent  is  not  so  large,  compared  with  that  of  the 
Great  St.  Bernard,  nor  the  chapel  anything  like 
that  in  the  famous  hospice,  but  the  monks  are  the 
same  and  the  treatment  similar .\ 

There  are  several  dogs  of  the  same  breed  as 
those  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  which  are  em- 
ployed in  a  similar  manner  and  for  the  same  pur- 
pose. The  Pass  is  not  so  dreary,  nor  fearfully 
desolate  or  cold,  as  that  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard, 
being  about  2,000  feet  lower.  There  is  a  tele- 
graph office  in  the  convent,  hence  it  is  in  commu- 
nication with  Italy  and  Switzerland.  The  Great 
St.  Bernard  is  a  perfect  picture  of  desolation  and 
savage  horror.\ 


DESCENT   OF   THE   ALPS.  189 

We  commenced  to  descend  a  rocky  and  tree- 
less slope,  and,  as  the  descent  is  done  very  rapid- 
ly, soon  reached  the  small  village  of  Simplon, 
which  is  a  scattered  hamlet,  surrounded  by  the 
summits  of  the  enormous  Alps,  whose  name  it 
bears.  We  dined  at  this  village,  and  soon  con- 
tinued our  downward  journey.  These  frightful, 
steep,  rocky  mountains,  now  gradually  approached 
each  other,  and  became  perpendicular  in  such  a 
manner  that  they  scarcely  left  space  for  the  road, 
which  descends  four  or  five  zigzags  to  the  gallery 
of  Algaby,  and  enters  the  valley  of  Vedro.  We 
now  entered  this  great  gallery  600  feet  long, 
which  is  a  master-piece  of  work,  and  emerging 
from  it  immediately  crossed  the  Frosinone  by  a 
massive  stone  bridge.  Here  the  road  sloping 
gradually,  we  entered  the  Gorge  of  Gondo,  the 
grandest  and  most  awfully  savage  in  the  Alps. 
At  the  miserable  village  of  Gondo,  consisting  of 
a  few  huts  around  a  tower  seven  stories  high,  we 
stopped  for  a  few  moments  at  a  kind  of  tavern.N 

It  was  Sunday  afternoon,  and  the  Swiss  were 
merry-making  ;  beer  and  the  gazose  were  used 
freely. 

We  soon  crossed  the  Italian  frontier,  which  is 
two  miles  below  the  village  of  Gondo,  where  the 
road  leaves  the  Valais  and  enters  Italy,  Italy ! 
the  beautiful  Italy  !\ 

At  Isella,  the  first  Italian  village,  post-office, 

and  custom-house,  I  found  my  baggage,  which  I 

opened  in  order  to  have  it  inspected,  which  was 

done  in  a  gentlemanly  manner.     I  was  even  al- 

12 


190  THE    ALPS. 

lowed  to  take  from  it  what  I  needed  and  replace 
some  articles.  My  baggage  had  been  checked 
through  to  Florence,  hence  I  had  no  right  to  take 
out  anything  till  it  had  reached  that  city.  As  we 
advanced  down  the  valley,  the  rocks  and  moun- 
tains receded,  and  verdure,  vineyards,  orchards, 
and  beautiful  villas  refreshed  and  cheered  our 
eyes  in  every  direction.  We  could  perceive  that 
we  were  traveling  into  quite  a  different  country, 
the  climate  and  soil  of  Italy.  After  crossing  the 
Doveria  by  a  bridge  ninety-six  feet  high,  with  two 
arches,  we  arrived  at  Domo  d'Ossola,  which  is  a 
small  village  nestled  in  the  mountains.  We 
stopped  about  one  hour  to  see  this  place,  which 
is  very  interesting  for  its  Alpine  scenery  and 
romantic  beauty.  Having  arrived  at  the  little 
hamlet  of  Yogogna,  I  felt  convinced  that  I  was 
in  Italy.  I  saw  a  long  and  devout  procession 
of  young  men  and  women,  apparently  from  four- 
teen to  twenty-one  years  of  age,  headed  by  a 
large  cross,  and  followed  by  three  priests,  who 
were  chanting  prayers  and  hymns.  Whether  this 
was  a  procession  on  account  of  the  plague,  cholera, 
or  a  Sunday  religious  ceremony,  (a  devotion  very 
common  in  Italy,)  I  did  not  learn  ;  but  it  awa- 
kened in  my  heart  feelings  of  pleasure  and  satis- 
faction, assuring  me  that  Italian  piety  and  devo- 
tion to  the  practices  of  religion  were  firm  among 
the  people,  notwithstanding  the  slanders  of  Prot- 
estant papers  to  the  contrary.  Italy  is,  and  will 
always  be,  Catholic,  in  spite  of  English  gold  and 
intrigue,  which  have  been  successful  in  making 


FEELING    OF   ITALIANS.  191 

Switzerland  apostatize  ;  but  they  will  never  suc- 
ceed  in   Italy.      Italy   despises   the   Swiss    and 
the  Germans,  because  they  have  been  hired  by 
Italian  and  foreign  princes  to  keep  the  Italian 
people  in  bondage.     The  Italians  for  a  long  time 
have  cried  loud  " s'intanino  le  Tedesche  Helve" 
"Let  the  Dutch  Beasts  retire  into  their  dens," 
and   they   have    succeeded.      Austria   has    sent 
hordes  of  Dutchmen  and  northern  people  to  keep 
Italy  in  bondage  ;   for  this  reason  the  Italians 
have  a  disgust  and  hatred  for  northern  nations. 
Nothing  ever  came  from  the  north  but  the  sword 
and  desolation,  as  the  immortal  Chateaubriand 
said  when  he  refuted  the  ridiculous  notions  of 
some  writers,  who  contended  that  the  gothic  style 
of  architecture   was   invented   by  the   northern 
people,   and  spread   over   Southern  Europe   by 
them.     The  gothic  style  of  architecture  was  in- 
troduced by  the  Crusaders,  who  brought  it  from 
the  East,  where  it  had  been  planted  by  the  Sara- 
cens, who  had  copied  it  from  the  Egyptian  Tem- 
ples.    The  Italians  like  the  English  people,  but 
they  despise    their    religion ;    Angli !  Angeli ! 
(English,  Angels,)   so   they  were   called  by  the 
Italians  when  the   English  nation  were  Catholic, 
before  their  apostacy  from  the  true  faith  ;  and 
the  Italians  expect  soon  to  call  them  again  by  the 
same  name. . 

^1  experienced  the  difference  between  Switzer- 
land and  Italy,  in  the  manner  in  which  they  ob- 
served the  Lord's  day  ;  the  Italians  were  sanc- 
tifying it  by  devout  processions,  prayers,  and 
other  works  of  religion  ;  and  the  Swiss  were  pro- 


192  THE    ALPS. 

faningit  in  frolicking  with  wine,  lager  beer,  and  a 
kind  of  drink  called  gassosa,  around  saloons,  tav- 
erns, and  other  places  of  amusement.  What  a 
change  in  Switzerland !  This  is  work  performed  by 
the  Reformation.  I  was  proud  to  be  Italian.  I  took 
off  my  hat  as  the  diligence  passed  parallel  with  the 
procession,  and  inclining  my  head  to  the  cross,  the 
sign  of  our  redemption,  I  proceeded  on  my  journey. 
We  enjoyed  a  full  sight  of  Mont  Eosa,  which  is 
only  a  few  miles  from  this  village.\ 

Passing  Ornavasca,  celebrated  for  the  white 
marble  quarry  out  of  which  the  famous  Cathedral 
of  Milan  was  built,  we  soon  came  to  the  foot  of  the 
beautiful  Lago  Maggiore,  the  ancient  Lagus  Ver- 
banus.  The  diligence  crossed  the  Tosa  in  a 
ferryboat,  near  where  this  river  enters  the  lake, 
and  coasting  the  shores  of  this  beautiful  lake 
we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Baveno.  I  stopped 
for  the  night  at  the  Hotel  et  Pension  de  Bel- 
levue,  situated  a  stone's  throw  from  the  Lago 
Maggiore.  It  is  a  first-class  hotel,  therefore 
very  dear  ;  for  one  night's  lodging  and  supper 
I  paid  six  francs  and  seventy-five  centimes.  I  was 
sorry  to  hear  that  the  cholera  was  not  only  preva- 
lent in  Piedmont,  but  in  every  part  of  Italy .\ 

There  were  several  travelers  at  the  Lago  Mag- 
giore who  were  returning  to  Switzerland,  only  a 
few  of  them  venturing  to  go  to  Venice.  The  hotel 
keepers  said  that  the  cholera  was  also  in  France, 
and  especially  in  Paris,  but  it  was  kept  secret 
that  the  travelers  might  not  be  deterred  from 
visiting  the  Paris  Exposition  ;  but  in  Italy  the 
newspapers  were  not  prevented  from  publishing 


BORROMEAN    ISLANDS.  193 

the  cases  of  cholera.  This,  however,  was  a  poor 
consolation,  and  no  encouragement  for  me  who 
was  going  to  Italy.  Next  morning  I  hired  a  boat 
for  three  francs  to  carry  me  to  the  Borromean 
Islands,  called  formerly  "  Isole  dei  Conigli,"  on  ac- 
count of  the  many  rabbits  found  there.  For  many 
centuries  they  have  been  in  the  possession  of  the 
horromean  Family  who  had  large  estates  around 
the  Lago  Maggiore.  These  islands  are  four  in  num- 
ber, the  smallest  being  that  of  San  Giovanni,  close 
to  the  promontory  of  St.  Remigio,  which  is  not  in- 
habited ;  the  next  is  V  Isola  dei  Pescatori  (Fisher- 
men's Island),  and  although  so  small  that  it  may 
be  walked  over  in  ten  minutes,  yet  it  is  occupied 
by  530  persons,  nearly  all  fishermen,  who  carry 
on  a  considerable  trade  in  fish  with  Milan  and 
Piedmont.  I  did  not  land  on  them  but  went  to 
the  Isola  Madre  which  is  the  farthest  of  all,  lying 
in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  one  and  a  half  miles 
distant  from  the  shore.  It  consists  of  five  gar- 
dens or  terraces,  rising  one  above  the  other,  orna- 
mented with  rare  trees  from  all  parts  of  the  world, 
and  trained  in  various  shapes.  Shrubs,  lemons, 
oranges,  pomegranates,  camphor,  etc.,  render  this 
island  one  of  the  most  lovely  spots  in  Europe. 
The  magnificent  palace  on  this  island  is  not  finish- 
ed, but  is  inhabited  by  the  keeper  of  the  place 
who  has  instructions  to  wait  on  visitors.\ 

The  climate  is  very  mild.  This  island  appeared 
to  me  more  handsome  than  the  rest  because  the 
gardens  are  more  natural.  On  my  return  I  went 
to  Isola  Bella,  one  mile  distant  from  the  Isola 
Madre,  where  I  discharged  my  boat  because  I  in- 


194  THE    ALPS. 

tended  to  take  the  steamer  which  touches  at  this 
island  for  Arona.  At  the  hotel  on  the  Isola  Bella 
I  took  a  good  lunch  of  fish  caught  in  the  lake,  and 
then  I  went  to  visit  the  palace  and  gardens.  This 
island  has  ten  terraced  gardens,  one  above  the 
other,  carpeted  with  flowers,  shaded  by  rare 
trees,  and  watered  by  fountains.  The  noble  pal- 
ace crowns  the  island.  Nothing  can  be  more 
charming  and  beautiful  than  the  view  from  these 
terraces.  The  gardens  are  laid  out  with  great 
taste  and  skill.  The  palace  contains  many  rare 
and  valuable  paintings,  and  several  curious  por- 
traits of  the  Borroinean  family.  The  subterranean 
apartments,  or  grottoes,  are  ornamented  with  fine 
statuary,  mosaic  pavements,  and  fountains.  By 
means  of  these  grottoes  there  is  communication 
with  the  terraces,  which,  narrowing  according  to 
the  proportion  of  their  elevation,  terminate  in  a 
truncated  pyramid,  on  the  top  of  which  stands  a 
colossal  unicorn,  the  armorial  ensign  of  the  Bor- 
romeo  family.  Yet  all  these  beauties  are  artificial, 
and  kept  at  a  yearly  expense  of  thousands  of  dol- 
lars. Some  of  these  gardens  have  to  be  covered 
in  the  winter,  and  many  plants  are  kept  alive  by 
the  use  of  stoves  when  winter  commences,  and 
snow  covers  the  island.  However,  these  islands 
were  originally  nothing  else  but  barren  rocks, 
and  the  earth  or  soil  was  carried,  at  great  ex- 
pense, from  across  the  lake.x 

While  visiting  these  enchanting  scenes,  the 
keeper  of  the  Palace  notified  me  of  the  approach 
of  the  steamer.  I  heard  the  whistle  and  ran  to 


BORROMEAN    ISLANDS.  195 

the  hotel,  took  my  valise,  set  out,  and  embarked 
for  Arona.  The  trip  on  the  steamboat  was  en- 
chanting, the  weather  charming,  and  the  southern 
shore  of  the  lake  gently  rising  from  the  water,  was 
dotted  with  picturesque  villas  and  villages.  The 
beauty  of  the  gardens,  tastefully  laid  out  with  frag- 
rant flowers,  carefully  selected  fruit  trees,  vine- 
yards overloaded  with  grapes,  orchards  rich  with 
ripe  fruits  of  every  description,  awoke  in  my  mind 
a  striking  contrast  to  the  bleak  rocks  and  eternal 
snows  of  the  Alps.x 

We  soon  came  in  sight  of  the  colossal  bronze 
statue  of  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  which  is  112  feet 
in  height,  including  the  marble  pedestal  on  which 
it  stands.  This  statue  was  erected  by  the  inhab- 
itants of  Milan  in  1697.  It  represents  this  great, 
persecuted,  and  calumniated  Saint  turned  towards 
Milan  giving  his  benediction.  We  soon  reached 
Arona,  a  small,  neat  town  on  the  lake,  but  it  has 
nothing  worth  visiting  except  the  old  castle.\ 

I  took  the  cars  for  Novara,  a  fine  city  of  25,000 
inhabitants.  At  the  station  I  found  a  train  ready 
to  start  for  Turino  via  Alessandria  and  Neyve, 
and  having  no  desire  to  stop  on  account  of  the 
cholera,  I  left  for  Neyve  where  I  expected  to  re- 
main for  two  or  three  days.  The  country  is  beau- 
tiful, and  the  soil  rich  and  well  cultivated  ;  vine- 
yards were  very  common  and  overloaded  with  ripe 
grapes.  Gardens  invited  by  their  ripe  and  sweet 
fruits  of  every  variety  ;  but  the  cholera  was  chas- 
ing me  everywhere  in  Italy.  Fond  of  the  sweet 
Italian  fruits  and  grapes  which  I  had  not  tasted 


196  THE   ALPS. 

nor  seen  for  twenty-four  years,  I  was  obliged  to 
satisfy  myself  by  humbly  looking  at  them.  We 
passed  the  small  towns  of  Mortara  and  Valenza, 
but  1  had  no  desire  to  stop  till  I  reached  Alessan- 
dria. This  city  is  notable  for  being  one  of  the 
strongest  fortifications  in  Italy,  and  for  being  near 
Marengo,  famous  for  the  battle  fought  by  Napo- 
leon in  1800.  It  has  a  fine  railway  station,  and 
excellent  hotels.  I  did  not  wish  to  pay  a  visit  to 
Genoa,  which  city  is  not  far  from  Alessandria,  be- 
cause the  cholera  was  raging  there.  I  had  on 
other  occasions  visited  Genoa,  justly  called  La  Su- 
perba,  on  account  of  its  magnificent  palaces  which 
make  it  look  like  a  city  of  kings  ;  the  churches  are 
truly  grand  and  rich.  I  had  seen  the  site  where 
Christopher  Columbus,  the  immortal  discoverer 
of  the  New  World,  was  born,  and  the  magnificent 
light-house  and  harbor  of  this  once  great  Repub- 
lic, whose  traffic  and  wealth  were  immense.  This 
city  being  very  ancient,  is  built  up  and  down,  and 
the  streets  are  so  narrow  that  people  from  opposite 
sides  of  the  streets  can  shake  hands  ;  not  many 
streets  are  wide  enough  for  carriages,  and  the 
palaces  being  very  high  render  the  sun  invisible 
except  for  a  few  hours ;  however,  the  palaces  have 
spacious  gardens  and  fine  terraces.\ 

The  same  day  I  left  for  Asti,  a  city  of  28,000 
inhabitants,  and  known  for  being  the  native  place 
of  Alfieri.  I  arrived  at  Neyve  about  sunset,  and 
leaving  my  baggage  at  the  station,  I  commenced 
to  ascend  a  high  hill  on  foot.  There  is  a  law  in 
Italy  that  in  every  railway  station  there  must  be 


REV.    JOHN    IMASSO.  197 

an  office  where  travelers  can  leave  their  baggage, 
overcoats,  umbrellas,  etc.,  and  receive  a  check  for 
the  trifling  sum  of  a  few  cents.  On  the  way  upl 
met  three  priests  walking  up  to  the  town  ;  the 
middle  one  was  the  parish  priest,  as  I  afterwards 
found  out.  I  saluted  them  and  passed  along,  but  a 
man  who  was  carrying  my  valise  told  them  that  I 
was  a  clergyman  coming  from  the  place  where  Fath- 
er Imasso  was  living,  so  I  felt  it  my  duty  to  join 
their  company,  and  had  the  pleasure  of  entering 
into  conversation  with  them.  On  leaving  Ameri- 
ca, I  promised  to  go  to  Neyve,  in  order  to  visit 
the  relations  of  the  Rev.  John  Imasso,  a  friend  of 
mine,  and  a  missionary  in  the  State  of  Maine,  the 
field  of  our  labors  for  many  years,  where,  amongst 
the  deep  snows  and  long  severe  winters,  he  has  many 
times  exposed  his  life  in  order  to  visit  the  Catho- 
lic settlements  of  his  scattered  and  fatiguing  mis- 
sions.. He  had  kindly  written  to  his  brother,  Don 
Giuseppe,  that  I  was  to  call  there  on  my  way  to 
the  East,  and  that  I  was  much  pleased  at  this  op- 
portunity, after  so  long  and  laborious  a  journey, 
to  rest  in  a  place  where  I  could  feel  at  home.  I 
went  to  the  hotel,  but  Mr.  Giuseppe  Imasso  soon 
came  to  convey  me  to  his  house,  but  as  the  hotel 
belonged  to  one  of  his  relations,  I  agreed  to  stop 
there,  dining  with  him  at  his  house.  He  went  to 
meet  his  wife,  la  Signora  Irene,  who  was  recruit- 
ing her  health  at  some  springs  near  Alessandria. 
She  is  an  accomplished  lady,  and  they  have  three 
lovely  children.  Ernesto,  Clementina,  and  Cam- 
illa. Mr.  Giuseppe  Imasso  is  a  notary  and 


198  A   LEAF   FROM   THE 

secretario  comunale.  The  Imassos  are  among  the 
first  families  of  Neyve,  wealthy,  and  of  high  repute.\ 
I  visited  the  town,  which  is  very  ancient,  and 
contains  about  5,000  inhabitants  ;  but  there  is 
nothing  to  interest  a  traveler  except  that  being  situ- 
ated on  the  top  of  a  hill  it  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  surrounding  country,  which  is  very  rich  and 
well  cultivated.  I  paid  my  respects  to  the  pas- 
tor, who  is  an  intelligent  and  zealous  priest ;  he 
showed  me  the  church  which  he  was  enlarging. 
Mr.  John  Bruno  made  me  eat  some  excellent 
grapes  and  figs  raised  by  him  in  his  garden,  but  I 
was  afraid  to  use  too  many  of  them  on  account  of 
the  cholera.  During  my  stay  in  Neyve  I  visit- 
ed often  the  excellent  family  of  Mr.  John  Bruno  ; 
his  accomplished  lady,  Antonia,  and  his  son  be- 
stowed on  me  several  acts  of  kindness.  I  take 
this  occasion  to  express  my  sincere  thanks  towards 
them  and  the  family  of  Irnasso,  and  all  my  friends 
in  Neyve./ 

A   LEAF   FROM   THE    NOTE-BOOK    OF     A    MISSIONARY. 

In  conversation  I  was  often  solicited  to  give 
some  instances  of  the  difficulties  and  hardships 
with  which  some  of  the  missions  of  North  Ameri- 
ca are  attended.  To  comply  with  their  request  I 
related  the  two  following  incidents  : 

During  my  residence  in  Baugor,  Maine,  I  had  a 
call  to  administer  the  Sacraments  of  the  Church  to 
some  Catholics  living  at  Tinker's  Island,  one  of 
the  group  of  islands  laying  west  of  Mount  Des- 
ert^ 


NOTE-BOOK    OF   A   MISSIONARY.  199 

I  went  to  Mount  Desert  by  land,  and  having  ar- 
rived at  West  Harbor,  I  found  a  boat  waiting  for 
me  according  to  agreement.  I  sent  away  the  ve- 
hicle and  embarked  for  Tinker's  Island.  After 
rowing  for  some  miles,  we  were  enveloped  in  a 
thick  fog.  We  had  no  compass,  yet  we  steered 
ahead.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the 
shore,  and  after  landing,  I  sent  the  boat  back.  I 
approached  a  house  not  far  from  the  lauding,  and 
inquired  for  the  family  to  which  I  was  directed. 
The  answer  was  that  there  was  no  such  family  on 
the  island.  This  disconcerted  me  very  much.  I 
asked  again, 

"Are  you  sure  of  it?" 

"Yes,  I  am,'7  was  the  reply,  "there  are  only  two 
families  on  this  island  ;  this  family  and  an  Ameri- 
can one,  the  proprietor  of  the  place  living  at  the 
other  end  of  the  island." 

Here  I  thought  I  was  on  the  wrong  island.  "Is 
not  this  Tinker's  Island?'7  I  inquired  of  the  man 
who  had  just  arrived  at  the  house. 

"No,  sir,"  he  replied,  "  Tinker's  Island  is  sever- 
al miles  south  of  this  place." 

I  perceived  that  the  boatman,  in  the  fog,  had 
mistaken  the  island,  and  the  current  had  carried 
the  boat  to  Bartlett's  Island,  where  I  was.  I  asked 
him  to  take  me  to  Tinker's  Island. 

"  I  would  do  it  most  willingly,"  he  replied,  "  but 
I  have  no  boat,  and  there  is  none  on  the  island." 

I  inquired,  "  How  do  you  manage  when  you 
have  to  go  to  the  main  land  ?"  He  pointed  out  to 
an  island  a  few  miles  westward,  saying  that  there 


200  A   LEAF   FROM   THE 

was  a  boat  on  that  island,  and  that  it  would  be 
sent  if  they  would  signalize  for  it.  The  signal 
was  to  build  a  fire  on  an  adjacent  hill,  and  the 
smoke  would  indicate  that  they  wanted  the  boat.x 

When  the  fog  had  cleared  this  man,  with  his 
daughter,  proceeded  to  build  the  fire,  and  after- 
wards I  went  myself  to  pick  up  some  driftwood  to 
feed  it.  The  fire  being  lighted  I  expected  to  see 
a  column  of  smoke  large  enough  to  attract  notice 
from  the  other  island,  but  a  heavy  fog  fell  like  a 
curtain,  obstructing  the  view  of. every  object,  no 
matter  how  near.  The  fisherman,  who  was  an 
Irishman,  offered  me  his  hospitality,  remarking 
that  the  fog  might  clear  next  day  about  10  A.  M.\. 

Now  I  considered  myself  to  be  a  prisoner  on 
that  rock,  which  was  hardly  four  miles  in  circum- 
ference. Here  I  reflected  on  wrhat  must  have 
been  the  condition  of  Napoleon  I.  on  the  island 
of  St.  Helena,  where  he  was  condemned  to  live 
not  for  one  day,  but  for  life !....!  was  very 
thirsty,  but  the  water  being  too  brackish  was  un- 
fit to  drink.  I  tasted  it  and  it  sickened  me.  My 
kind  host  called  me  to  supper,  which  consisted  of 
salt  fish  and  an  abominable  drink,  called  black 
tea,  at  the  strong  smell  of  which  my  stomach  re- 
volted. I  tried  to  eat  a  small  piece  of  what  they 
called  bread,  and  I  drank  some  milk.\ 

The  house  consisted  of  a  bed-room,  a  kitchen 
and  an  unfinished  garret.  I  was  kindly  offered 
the  choice,  either  of  the  bed-room  or  of  the  gar- 
ret, where  there  was  an  old  bedstead,  but  no  bed 
or  anything  else.  Considering  that  the  whole 


NOTE-BOOK    OF    A   MISSIONARY.  201 

family,  consisting  of  husband,  wife  and  three 
small  children,  would  be  dislodged  if  I  occupied 
the  bed-room,  I  accepted  the  garret.  I  was  in- 
formed that  in  the  garret  there  was  a  boarder. 

1  replied  that  I  would  not  disdain  his  company  ; 
but  besides  him  I  found  other  occupants,  consist- 
ing of  a  cat,  rats,  mosquitoes,  etc.     I  had  a  small 
quantity  of  Mass  wine,  I  drank  a  part  of  it,  which 
settled  my  empty  stomach.     There  is  no  need  to 
remark  that  I  did  not  sleep  that  night,  which  I 
spent    sitting    on   a  trunk,  and  covered  in  my 
shawl.     Now  and  then  I  went  out  to  see  whether 
the  fog  had  disappeared.\ 

In  the  morning  I  was  cheered  by  the  news  that 
during  the  night,  on  account  of  the  fog,  a  boat  by 
mistake  had  arrived  at  the  island.  I  hastened  to 
secure  the  service  of  that  boat,  but  it  was  with 
great  difficulty,  and  only  at  the  earnest  request 
of  the  two  young  ladies,  who  were  in  the  same 
boat,  that  I  succeeded  ;  they  all  took  breakfast 
at  my  host's  house. \ 

About  8  A.  M.  we  started  for  Tinker's  Island, 
enveloped  in  a  dense  fog  and  without  compass. 
About  11  A.M.  the  fog  cleared  up  and  we  saw  that 
we  were  near  to  Long  Island,  which  lies  in  an- 
other direction.  We  changed  our  course,  and  at 

2  P.  M.  we  landed  at  Tinker's  Island. 

I  made  arrangements  to  celebrate  Mass  on  the 
next  clay,  and  I  had  brought  with  me  everything 
necessary  for  it.  On  this  island  there  were  three 
Catholic  families,  and  we  sent  word  to  a  few  other 
families  that  were  dwelling  on  some  other  islands 


202  A   LEAF   FROM   THE 

not  at  a  great  distance  from  this,  in  order  to  af- 
ford them  an  opportunity  to  approach  to  the  Sacra- 
ments, as  they  had  not  met  with  a  good  chance 
for  many  years,  and  I  did  not  know  when  such 
would  again  occur.  \ 

On  this  island  there  was  a  fine  spring  of  water, 
and  being  very  thirsty,  I  drank  from  it  too  freely, 
and  being  also  hungry,  I  ate  mussels,  which  I 
found  in  great  quantity  along  the  shore.  After 
supper  I  heard  confessions,  and,  after  giving  an  ap- 
propriate instruction,  I  retired  to  my  room  where 
there  was  a  comfortable  bedx 

After  midnight  I  was  seized  with  a  severe  at- 
tack of  cholera.  I  had  terrible  cramps,  vomiting 
and  diarrhoea.  I  felt  ill  and  I  apprehended  that 
my  last  hour  had  arrived.  I  wanted  a  priest  to 
administer  to  me  the  last  Sacraments.  I  remem- 
bered that  I  had  given  the  last  consolations  of  the 
Church  to  persons  who  were  not  so  sick  as  I  was. 
But  where  could  I  send  for  a  priest  ?  Only  to 
Bangor  ;  there  was  none  nearer.  Reflecting  that 
it  would  take  two  days  to  go  to  Bangor  and  two 
others  for  the  priest  to  come,  I  concluded  it  use- 
less to  send,  because  in  four  days  I  would  be 
either  dead  or  well.  I  encouraged  myself  with 
the  thought  that  having  the  Blessed  Sacrament 
with  me,  I  could  take  the  Viaticum;  and  having 
the  Holy  Oil,  could  I  administer  to  myself  the 
Extreme  Unction?  ....  Who  can  here  relate 
the  tortures  that  I  endured  in  that  long,  very 
long  night,  longer  than  the  preceding  one  which 
I  spent  on  Bartlett's  Island.\ 


NOTE-BOOK   OF    A   MISSIONARY.  203 

On  a  lonely  and  rocky  island  in  the  ocean,  des- 
titute of  spiritual  and  temporal  assistance,  far 
from  my  friends,  I  was  approaching  the  gates  of 
death,  and  stepping  into  eternity !  I  resigned 
myself  to  my  fate  and  submitted  to  the  will  of 
God.  I  recommended  my  spirit  to  Him  who  has 
promised  damabit  ad  me,  et  ego  exaudiam  eum, 
cum  ipso  sum  in  tribulatione,  eripiam  eum.  I  fell 
into  a  deep  sleep,  and,  thanks  to  Him  and  to  His 
merciful  Mother,  I  awoke  perfectly  well.j 

I  said  Mass,  gave  an  instruction,  and  adminis- 
tered Communion  to  several  persons.  At  break- 
fast I  inquired  in  what  manner  I  could  get  away 
from  that  island  as  quick  as  possible.  They  said, 
either  by  going  to  Blue  Hill  by  boat,  and  thence 
by  land  to  Bangor,  but  that  would  be  a  long  and 
disagreeable  journey  ;  or  by  going  to  a  small 
island  about  four  miles  off,  south-west,  and  there 
waiting  for  a  steamboat,  which  once  a  week  from 
Ellsworth  goes  to  Bangor  and  passes  by  that 
island,  and  the  boat  would  stop  for  me  if  I  would 
signal  her.  I  preferred  to  take  my  chance  in 
this  last  manner. \ 

I  was  anxious  to  know  by  what  means  they 
kept  up  a  correspondence  with  the  main  land. 
"  To  send  a  letter,"  they  said,  "  we  must  go  to  the 
nearest  post-office,  which  is  Blue  Hill.  We  have 
a  boat  which  is  free  to  all  the  families  of  the 
island  and  every  one  of  them  can  use  it.  All  our 
letters  are  directed  to  Blue  Hill.  When  there  is 
a  letter  for  some  family  of  this  island,  the  post- 
master of  Blue  Hill  hoists  a  flag  on  a  tall  pole 


204  A   LEAF   FROM   THE 

erected  for  this  purpose  on  an  eminence  near  the 
town.  The  different  color  of  the  flag  indicates 
the  family  to  which  the  letter  is  directed,  and  as 
there  are  only  five  families,  each  family  has  a 
distinct  color." \ 

Next  morning  I  left  in  a  boat,  manned  by  two 
men,  to  meet  the  steamboat,  and  after  waiting  for 
about  one  hour  on  a  small  island,  she  made  her 
appearance.  We  steered  towards  her  and  I  sig- 
nalled the  boat  with  my  handkerchief.  The  cap- 
tain of  the  boat  with  his  telescope  had  recognized 
me  ;.  he  was  a  friend  of  mine,  and  he  ordered  the 
boat  to  stop.  It  did  not  take  long  for  me  to  get 
on  board  ;  the  captain  shook  hands  with  me  and 
said,  "  Friend  Yetromile,  what  in  the  world  are 
you  doing  amongst  these  wild  islands  ?  As  soon 
as  I  saw  somebody  making  signals,  I  thought  that 
it  was  some  person  belonging  to  the  coast-sur- 
vey, but  with  my  spy -glass  I  recognized  you, 
and  I  ordered  the  steamer  to  steer  towards  your 
boat.'7  I  thanked  the  captain  very  much,  and  I 
felt  very  glad  to  see  that  I  was  on  my  way  to 
Bangor,  where  I  arrived  on  the  evening  of  the 
same  day.\ 

In  one  of  my  excursions  amongst  the  Indians 
of  Maine,  I  went  to  visit  those  children  of  the 
forest  dwelling  on  the  SckoocKc  lakes.  I  stopped 
for  a  few  hours  at  Princeton,  on  Lewis-  Island,  in 
the  house  of  Captain  Lewis,  an  Indian  chief,  from 
whom  the  island  derives  its  name,  at  the  foot  of 
the  first  lake.  I  was  waiting  for  a  canoe  to  cross 


NOTE-BOOK    OF  A  MISSIONARY.  205 

the  lakes  and  go  to  their  settlement  at  Dennis 
Point.  While  they  were  making  arrangements 
for  a  canoe,  the  chief  invited  me  to  dine  with  him, 
which  invitation  I  accepted  most  willingly,  since 
I  had  eaten  no  food  that  day.\ 

His  wife  spread  on  a  table  a  cloth,  none  of  the 
cleanest,  and  put  on  two  ducks  which  the  Indian 
had  killed  on  the  lakes,  potatoes,  butter  and  a 
kind  of  bread  baked  in  the  ashes.  Having  placed 
three  benches,  made  by  the  same  Indian,  I  was 
invited  to  take  a  seat  by  him ;  the  squaw,  his 
wife,  sat  before  us.  There  were  only  two  forks 
and  one  table-knife,  which  was  given  to  me,  to- 
gether with  a  fork  ;  the  captain  took  the  other 
fork  and  a  large  sheath-knife,  which  he  carried 
by  his  side  ;  his  wife  had  none,  but  each  of  us 
had  a  plate.  The  Indian  with  his  hands  took 
hold  of  one  duck  by  both  legs,  seizing  one  in  each 
hand,  and  tore  the  duck  in  two  ;  one  part  was 
presented  to  me,  which  I  received  on  my  plate, 
at  the  same  time  he  put  the  other  into  his  own 
dish,  then,  having  wiped  his  hands  on  his  long 
and  stiff  hair,  took  the  fork  to  eat,  but  not  being 
used  to  it,  he  begged  to  be  excused,  dropped  it 
and  commenced  to  help  himself  with  his  hands.  \ 

In  the  meantime  his  wife  had  transferred  to 
her  plate  the  other  duck,  and  having  wiped  her 
greasy  hands  upon  her  long  hair,  took  a  slice  of 
butter,  making  use  of  the  forefinger  as  a  butter- 
knife,  and  with  the  same  finger  spread  it  very 
nicely  upon  a  piece  of  bread,  and  presented  it  to 
me.  I  accepted  it  and  laid  it  aside  my  plate. 
13 


206  NOTE-BOOK. 

I  was  endeavoring  to  eat  a  piece  of  the  duck  when 
I  observed  that  some  water  was  dropping  from 
the  ceiling  upon  the  table  ;  this  was  noticed  also 
by  the  captain,  who  in  Indian  asked  his  wife 
what  was  the  matter  with  that  water.  "  Nothing," 
she  replied,  "it  is  the  papoose  in  the  garret  that 
must  be  doing  something."  .  .  .  That  was  enough 
for  me  to  finish  my  dinner  and  to  call  for  the  canoe 
to  carry  me  across  the  lakes  to  Dennis  Point,  the 
Indian  settlement.\ 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

ITALY. 

v  TURIN— CATHEDRAL SANCTUARY  OF  LA  8UPERGA NOVARA MILAN CATHE- 
DRAL— BODY    OF   ST.    CHARLES    BORROMEO ST.  AMBROSE    AND    HIS   CHURCH 

(ECUMENICAL  COUNCIL  REJECTED  BY  THE  POPE MAGENTA PIACENZA — PARMA 

BOLOGNA PISTOJA LUCCA PISA CATHEDRAL GALILEO BAPTISTERY 

CAMPO    SANTO— LEANING     TOWER CECUMENICAL     COUNCIL  REJECTED    BY    THE 

POPE LEGHORN PROTESTANT    MEETING-HOUSE    IN    LEGHORN.^ 

^  I  REMAINED  three  days  in  Neyve,  enjoying  the 
hospitality  of  Mr.  Imasso,  and  on  the  fourth,  early 
in  the  morning,  I  left  for  Turin,  where  I  did  not 
intend  to  stay,  not  even  for  the  night,  on  account 
of  the  cholera  which  was  very  bad  in  that  city.\ 

Turin,  one  of  the  finest  cities  in  Europe,  is  the 
Augusta  Taurinorum  of  the  Romans  ;  it  was  made 
a  military  station  under  Julius  Caesar,  and  it  is 
famous  for  being  near  the  spot  where  Constantine 
the  Great  gained  a  great  victory  over  Maxentius 
in  312.  It  is  the  chief  city  of  Piedmont,  and  was 
once  the  capital  of  the  Sardinian  monarchy  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Po.  It  contains  180,000  in- 
habitants, and  is  situated  between  the  Dora- 
Ripuaria  and  the  Po,  just  beyond  the  junction  of 
these  two  rivers,  in  a  richly  cultivated  country, 
studded  with  charming  villas,  fine  villages,  entic- 
ing vineyards,  and  orchards,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Alps.  The  streets  are  wide,  regular,  intersecting 


208  ITALY. 

at  right  angles,  and  very  clean.  Palaces  orna- 
mented or  built  of  marble  of  every  vein  and  color 
are  a  common  thing  in  Turin,  and  for  this  reason 
they  attract  no  attention.  There  are  many  built 
of  brick  and  covered  with  stucco  in  front.  There 
are  no  mean  houses  ;  even  the  poor  live  in  pal- 
aces. The  public  gardens  and  promenades  are 
numerous  and  beautiful,  its  public  squares  excel- 
lent, and  the  churches  and  other  public  buildings 
magnificent.x 

I  visited  the  Cathedral  which  is  the  oldest 
church  in  the  city,  and  was  founded  by  Agilulphus, 
king  of  the  Lombards,  about  the  year  602.  It  is 
admired  for  its  architecture  and  fine  monuments. 
This  church  was  once  very  rich,  but  its  treasures 
in  vases,  candlesticks,  statues,  etc.,  were  sold  to 
construct  the  bridge  across  the  Po,  and  to  improve 
the  Tuilleries,  and  to  build  the  Rue  Hivoli  in  Paris, 
I  went  into  the  chapel  of  the  Santa  Sinode  where 
is  preserved  the  winding  sheet  of  Our  Saviour. 
I  saw  the  Piazza  Reale  which,  for  beauty  and  size, 
ranks  as  one  of  the  first  in  Europe,  and  the  Piaz- 
za Vittorio  Emmanuele.  Several  streets  have,  at 
their  sides,  arcades  or  piazzas,  affording  a  con- 
venient walk  for  foot  passengers  in  time  of  rain, 
and  during  the  hot  days  of  summer.  I  visited  the 
Royal  Palace,  which  is  grand  but  not  of  extra- 
ordinary merit.x 

I  changed  several  napoleons  into  Italian  paper 
money,  and  I  returned  to  the  railway  station 
which  is  the  best  and  the  most  magnificent  depot 
that  I  have  seen  in  my  travels.  Many  glasses  in 


NOVARA.  209 

the  roof  and  windows  had  been  broken  by  the 
terrible  hailstorm  which  prevailed  a  few  days 
previous,  doing  much  damage  to  the  city./ 

Turin  has  many  literary  institutions.  The  Uni- 
versity is  famous  and  the  libraries  and  museums, 
of  the  city  are  very  rich  and  valuable.  This  city 
was  the  birthplace  of  the  great  astronomer  La- 
grange,  and  many  others.  I  saw  only  at  a  dis- 
tance the  Sanctuary  ofZ&  Superga,  which  is  a 
great  monument  of  architecture  ;  in  this  Sanctu- 
ary are  the  tombs  of  the  Royal  family,  and  of 
Charles  Albert.  It  is  worthy  of  notice  that  in 
the  Hospice  of  the  Catecumens  amongst  the  names 
kept  in  the  record  book,  is  found  the  name  of  J. 
J.  Rousseau,  who  in  1728  was  received  there  to 
abjure  Calvinism  and  become  a  Cathojic./ 

I  returned  to  Novara  by  the  shortest  route, 
along  the  Po,  passing  through  a  luxuriant  country. 
The  Piedmontese  people  are  very  industrious  j 
silk,  cotton  and  linen  factories  are  to  be  seen 
everywhere,  which  with  a  well-cultivated  rich  soil 
renders  this  part  of  Italy  a  source  of  an  extensive 
commerce  with  every  part  of  the  world. \ 

Late  in  the  evening  I  arrived  at  Novara  where 
I  stopped  for  the  night.  Next  morning  I  saw  the 
Cathedral  which  is  a  fine  structure  and  has  a  very 
high  tower.  The  city  contains  25,000  inhabitants 
and  has  some  very  interesting  buildings  and  many 
charitable  institutions.  It  is  not  my  object  to 
mention  all  the  churches,  charitable  institutions, 
hospitals,  academies,  universities,  and  colleges,  of 
the  places  mentioned  by  me  in  speaking  of  Italy. 


210  ITALY. 

They  are  so  numerous  and  extensive  that  to  des- 
cribe them  would  take  several  volumes,  and  be 
out  of  the  sphere  of  the  present  voluine.\ 

I  left  for  Milan,  where  the  cholera  was  raging 
in  a  fearful  manner.  At  the  station  I  saw  several 
vases  in  which  sulphur  and  other  chemical  prepar- 
ations were  burning  in  order  to  purify  the  at- 
mosphere. I  resolved  to  visit  nothing  but  the 
Cathedral  and  the  Church  of  St.  Ambrose.  1 
hired  a  carriage  and  drove  to  the  Cathedral,  and 
when  I  alighted  at  the  great  square  in  which  it 
stands  I  was  enchanted  in  beholding  before  me 
the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  this  magnificent  dome.\ 

I  had  admired  the  grand  Cathedral  of  York  ; 
I  had  gazed  on  Notre  Dame  in  Paris  ;  the  proud 
Cathedral  of  Antwerp  had  struck  me  with  wonder  ; 
the  world-renowned  Cathedral  of  Cologne  impressed 
me  with  the  greatness  and  might  of  God  who  gave 
such  power  to  man,  and  when  I  looked  aghast  at 
the  spirited  boldness  and  grandeur  of  the  Cathed- 
ral of  Strasbourg  I  thought  I  had  seen  the  neplus 
ultra  of  human  skill.  But  when  at  the  moment 
that  the  magnificent  majesty  of  the  Cathedral  of 
Milan  met  my  sight ;  when  my  eyes  wandered 
through  that  forest  of  pinnacles  and  spires  ;  when 
I  commenced  to  behold  that  immense  multitude 
of  statues  and  bas-reliefs  ;  when  I  began  to 'gaze 
on  the  wonderful  workmanship  so  exquisitely 
finished  of  each  cornice,  fret-work  or  moulding, 
I  was  struck  with  such  feelings  that  I  could  hardly 
dare  to  raise  my  eyes.  I  said  humbly,  "  truly,  this 
is  the  House  of  God;  what  must  Heaven  be !\* 


MILAN    CATHEDRAL.  211 

The  foundations  of  this  world-renowned  Dome 
were  laid  in  1386.  It  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  city,  and  occupies  a  large  portion  of  the  grand 
Piazza.  After  St.  Peter's  in  Rome  it  is  the  largest 
church  in  the  world.  It  is  built  entirely  of  the 
best  white  marble,  from  the  quarries  of  Orna- 
yasso  and  Gandoglia,  beyond  Lake  Maggiore, 
bequeathed  to  the  Cathedral  by  Gian  Galeazzo. 
The  first  architects  who  worked  upon  it  adopted 
the  later  Gothic  style  ;  but  Pellegrino  Tibaldi,  in 
the  sixteenth  centur}r,  erected  the  front  in  a  more 
ancient  style  and  thus  destroyed  the  unity  of  the 
whole.  Its  entire  length  is  490  feet,  the  length 
of  the  transept  284  feet,  height  to  the  top  of  the 
statue  354  feet,  height  of  the  nave  152  feet.  The 
form  is  that  of  a  Latin  cross.  But  if  the  exterior 
dazzles  the  beholder  by  the  pure  brilliancy  of  the 
marble,  he  is  no  less  strikingly  impressed  by  the 
interior.  The  Church  is  famous  for  its  magnifi- 
cent roof,  which  for  elaborate  detail  and  richness 
of  decoration  is  not  equalled  by  any  in  Europe  : 
it  rests  upon  fifty-two  marble  clustered  pillars. 
However,  I  would  rather  say,  that  the  Architec- 
ture can  be  called  a  peculiar  German  style  rather 
than  Gothic./ 

Its  double  aisles,  its  lofty  arches,  the  number- 
less niches  filled  with  superb  statues,  give  it  an 
appearance  of  magnificent  and  imposing  grandeur. 
The  many  clusters  of  pillars  ninety  feet  high,  but 
only  eight  feet  in  diameter  do  not  conceal  any 
portion  of  the  edifice,  but  allow  a  clear  and  full 
range  to  the  eye  of  the  spectator.  The  number 
of  statues  outside  and  inside  is  400  ;  the  pavement 


212  ITALY. 

is  of  marble  of  various  colors.  It  is  to  be  remarked 
that  the  marble  of  this  structure  is  not  a  mere 
crust  or  veneering,  but  solid  blocks  ;  which  forms 
one  of  the  characteristics  of  this  Cathedral.  Every 
statue,  moulding,  cornice,  etc.,  is  so  worked  and 
minutely  and  laboriously  carved  with  such  exquis- 
ite skill  and  method  that  they  will  bear  close  and 
critical  inspection.  Napoleon  I.  almost  completed 
it  at  an  immense  expense  ;  so  also  did  Austria, 
but  it  is  not  yet  finished,  although  very  little 
remains  undone.  I  went  under  the  dome  into 
the  subterranean  chapel,  and  saw  the  body  of 
St.  Charles  Borromeo.  I  knelt  before  that  holy 
Bishop,  real  model  of  every  true  Bishop.\ 

The  Church  of  St.  Ambrose  is  a  remarkable 
and  ancieut  structure,  and  is  believed  to  be  the 
Church  presided  over  by  that  great  luminary,  St. 
Ambrose,  whose  body  lies  in  a  shrine  under  the 
high  altar.  My  nerves  were  excited  when  I  stood 
in  the  quadrangular  portico,  on  the  very  thresh- 
old from  which  St.  Ambrose  rebuked  the  Emper- 
or Theodosius,  and  refused  to  admit  him  into 
the  Church  until  he  had  done  penance,  on  account 
of  the  horrible  massacre  of  the  people  of  Thessa- 
lonica.  The  humble  and  pious  Emperor  submitted 
to  St.  Ambrose,  and,  thanking  him  for  having 
been  sincere  in  telling  him  the  truth,  retired 
penitent  and  in  due  time  he  wa's  afterwards  ad- 
mitted into  the  Church  by  the  same  holy  prelate. 
In  the  present  doors  of  this  church  there  are 
panels  made  out  of  the  wood  of  the  door  which  St. 
Ambrose  closed  against  the  Emperor  Theodosius. 


MILAN.  213 

The  interior  of  this  church  struck  one  with  vener- 
ation and  awe  ;  I  felt  nervous  in  thinking  that  this 
had  been  the  place  where  St.  Augustine  was 
gained  to  the  Church  by  the  holiness  and  elo- 
quence of  St.  Ambrose.  Under  the  high  altar  also 
are  the  remains  of  Sts.  Gervasius  and  Protasius. 
There  are  also  several  other  churches  in  this  city 
well  worthy  of  a  visit.  / 

This  city  is  also  well  known  for  the  (Ecumeni- 
cal Council,  celebrated  in  the  year  354,  in  which 
all  the  Bishops,  except  three  Italian  Bishops, 
through  fear  condemned  St.  Athanasius,  and  indi- 
rectly condemned  the  Catholic  faith.  The  Pope,  of 
course,  rejected  that  council.  Only  three  bishops 
had  the  courage  to  perform  their  duty,  to  sustain 
the  truth  of  faith,  to  stand  by  their  conscience, 
and  reject  what  the  Eusebians  had  done  in  Tyre 
against  St.  Athanasius.  These  three  holy  and 
true  bishops  were  sent  into  exile  by  the  Emperor 
Cons  tans  ;  Eusebius  of  Yercelli,  was  banished  to 
Scythopolis  ;  Lucifer  of  Cagliari  to  Palestine,  and 
Dionysius  of  Milan  to  Cappadocia./ 

Milan  is  one  of  the  best  cities  of  Italy  ;  it  con- 
tains 180,000  inhabitants,  but  is  not  regularly 
built.  It  is  an  ancient  city  annexed  to  the 
Eoman  empire,  191  years  before  Christ  by  Scipio 
Nasica,  and  in  the  fourth  century  ranked  fifth  in 
the  Empire.  It  has  suffered  much  by  war  and 
pestilence.  Its  commerce  is  very  extensive  ;  it 
has  many  literary  institutions,  and  has  been 
the  native  place  of  many  great  men.  Napoleon 
I.  made  it  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  but 


214  ITALY. 

in  1814  it  was  ceded  to  Austria,  and  made  the 
capital  of  the  Lombardo-  Venitian  kingdom  till 
1861,  when  itwas  annexed  to  the  Italian  kingdom. 
Milan  is  rich  in  architectural  monuments.  There 
exists  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Thermae,  called  the 
Oolonne  di  San  Lorenzo.  This  city  is  entered  by 
ten  fine  gates.x 

The  same  day  I  left  for  the  capital  of  Italy.  I 
passed  through  Magenta,  famous  for  the  victory 
gained  by  the  French  and  Piedmontese  over  the 
Austrians,  a  victory  which  rescued  Lombardy  from 
//  the  grasp  of  the  Dutch.  It  was  there  that  Napoleon 
III.,  with  only  a  handful  of  French  and  Piedmontese 
soldiers  kept  the  entire  Austrian  army  at  bay  till 
the  main  body  of  the  French  soldiers  under  Gen- 
eral McMahon  arrived  and  routed  the  Aus- 
(  trian  hordes.  The  valley  of  Charavalle,  fam- 
ous for  its  abbey,  is  not  far  from  Milan.  I  passed 
through  Lodi,  a  beautiful  city  of  some  20,000  in- 
habitants, finely  located  on  the  river  Adda,  and 
amidst  a  rich  and  well-cultivated  country.  It  is 
beautifully  built,  and  its  palaces  and  churches  are 
grand,  especially  the  Church  of  V Incoronata, 
designed  by  Bramante.  Lodi  is  the  capital  of  the 
province  of  Lodi  and  CremaA 

Charitable  institutions,  hospitals,  schools,  acad- 
emies, universities,  libraries,  etc.,  being  a  common 
thing  in  Italy,  and  conducted  on  a  high  scale  are 
to  be  found  in  every  town  and  village.  I  do  not, 
therefore,  make  any  mention  of  them  except  when 
some  particular  circumstance  requires  it.  The 
industry  of  the  city  of  Lodi  is  great.  There  are 


PARMA.  215 

many  manufactories,  especially  of  porcelain  ;  and 
the  cheese  of  Lodi,  called  the  cheese  of  Parma,  is 
known  and  used  in  all  parts  of  the  world./ 

Piacenza   a   city  of  the   abolished   Duchy   of 
Parma,  and  once  the  capital  of  a  Duchy  of  the 
same  name,  has  a  population  of  30,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  handsomely  built  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Trebbia  and  the  Po.     The  streets  and  palaces, 
especially  the  Corso,  are  worthy  of  Rome  in  her 
best  days.     The  Cathedral  and  the  great  hospital 
are  magnificent.     The  fine  statues  and  paintings, 
both  in  the  public  and  private  places  are  numer- 
ous, but  they  are  not  considered  in  Italy  as  extra- 
ordinary, because  these  works  of  art  are  very 
common  in  this  country.     The  learning  and  the 
university  of  this  place  are  famous.     It  is  the 
native  place  of  many  great   men.      Parma   the 
capital  of  the  late  Duchy  of  that  name  is  one  of 
the  finest  cities  of  Italy.     It  is  beautifully  con- 
structed on  both  shores  of  the  river  Parma,  which 
is  spanned  by  three  bridges.     The  cathedral  is  a 
magnificent  structure,  or  rather  a  pile  of   build- 
ings, of  the  eleventh  century,  and  is  ornamented 
with  frescoes,  the  most  important  of  which  are 
those  of  the  Cupola,  by  Correggio  and  his  master- 
pieces are  also  to  be  found  in  the  Churches  of  St. 
Joho,  St.  Stephen,  St.  Anthony,  etc.    The  Farnese 
Palace  contains  gems  of  Raphael,  Correggio  and 
other  masters.     The  Church  of  the  Madonna  della 
Steccata,  built  in  the  sixteenth  century,  is  con- 
sidered as  the  best  in  Parma.    The  Baptistery,  an 
octagonal  edifice,  entirely  built  of  white  Veronese 


216  ITALY. 

marble  is  the  most  splendid  baptistery  in  Italy 
This  city  is  famous  for  its  university,  scientific 
and  charitable  institutions,  and  also  for  the  in- 
dustry of  its  inhabitants.  The  celebrated  Parmi- 
giano  cheese,  is  known  in  every  country.  Parma 
has  in  every  age  brought  forth  great  men  as 
Grapaldi,  Yico,  Siri,  Lanfranco,  etc.\ 

Bologna,  a  city  two  miles  in  length  and  one  in 
breadth,  is  entered  by  twelve  gates,  connected  by 
picturesque  glass  covered  walls  and  a  moat.     It 
is  the  centre  of  a  strongly  entrenched  camp,  and 
of  an   important   railway  station.     The   city  is 
badly  built  and  gloomy.     Its  population  is  rec- 
koned at  90,000  inhabitants.     Being  an  old  city 
the  streets  are  irregular  and  narrow,  whilst  the 
thoroughfares  and  arcades  are  broad  and  noble- 
Many  of  the  long  streets  have  a  deserted  air,  on 
account  of  the  houses  overhanging  the  footpaths, 
which  are   arcades   and  cover  the   passers  by. 
Bologna  will  be  long  remarkable  for  the  events  of 
1848.     It  is  celebrated  for  its  university,  founded 
in  1119,  by  Wernerus,  called  Luvena  Juris.     It 
has   given   to  the   Church   five   Popes  and  100 
Cardinals,   and  has  been    the    native   place   of 
Guido,  Domenichino,  the  two  Francias,  and  many 
other  great  men.     It  has  100  churches,  all  re- 
markable for  their  structures  and  paintings  :  that 
of  St.  Petronio  is  very  remarkable  for  its  anti- 
quity.   This  saint  was  the  first  bishop  of  the  city. 
The  piazzas  are  beautiful,  and  the  leaning  towers, 
although  much  inferior  to  the  one  of  Pisa,  produce 
a  good  effect,  and  render  the  piazza  an  attrac- 
tive place  to  the  citizens  and  travelers.\ 


PISTOJA.  217 

I  did  not  stop  long  in  Bologna  because  the 
cholera  prevailed  very  extensively  in  the  city.  I 
took  the  cars  for  Pistoja  where  I  arrived  late  in 
the  evening  after  a  pleasant  ride  amidst  a  fine 
country  and  with  a  pleasant  company.  Pistoja  is 
a  decayed  city  of  Tuscany,  hardly  containing 
10,000  inhabitants.  Its  streets  are  long,  wide 
and  deserted  ;  the  palaces  large  and  empty.  I 
went  to  a  hotel  which  I  supposed  to  be  the  best 
in  the  city,  but  it  belonged  to  a  primitive  age.  I 
ordered  supper  to  be  ready  after  writing  a  letter 
to  my  uncle  and  mailing  it.  \ 

I  could  scarcely  see  by  the  light  of  a  brass 
lamp  burning  olive  oil.  I  soon  remembered  the 
old  machine  used  by  me  twenty-four  years  ago.  I 
wrote  a  short  letter  and  went  myself  to  mail 
it.  On  returning  from  the  post-office  I  could  not 
find  my  way  back  to  the  hotel.  For  nearly  one 
hour  I  went  rambling  about  late  in  the  night 
alone  and  through  many  dark  lonesome  streets. 
I  was  at  last  obliged  to  inquire  from  some  per- 
sons passing  by,  and  they  very  kindly  accompanied 
me  to  the  hotel.  I  thought  that  if  I  had  been 
in  New  York  or  Boston,  or  some  other  city  in 
New  England  or  America,  I  might  have  been 
robbed  and  perhaps  assassinated  in  the  streets,  if 
not  led  astray  to  some  obscure  corner  of  a  city 
or  country  place  and  there  murdered.  But  in 
Italy  I  felt  no  fear  or  apprehension  of  any  such 
thing.  I  feel  astonished  in  reading  some  English 
and  American  Protestant  travelers  who  write 
abominable  scandals,  lies  and  absurdities  about  the 


218  ITALY. 

Italians.  "  The  Italians  are  all  Catholics  and  firm  in 
their  religion;  they  scorn  and  despise  Protestant- 
ism, therefore  they  are  ignorant  robbers  and  cut- 
throats." Good  sound  logic,  indeed  !\ 

At  the  hotel  I  found  a  good  supper  prepared 
for  me,  and  a  large  decanter  containing  over  a 
gallon  of  excellent  white  wine.  I  said  to  the 
landlord  that  I  did  not  want  ail  that  wine,  and  he 
replied,  "  Use  what  you  want."  Next  day  my 
bill  was  only  three  francs  and  fifty  centimes  in- 
cluding all.x 

In  the  morning  I  left  for  Lucca,  once  the  capital 
of  the  Duchy  of  that  name,  which  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  50,000  inhabitants,  who  are  very  in- 
dustrious. Lucca  is  well-known  for  being  the 
first  place  where  silk  was  manufactured  and  also 
for  its  excellent  oil.  The  city  is  well  built  and 
neat,  and  the  churches  contain  fine  paintings  and 
mosaics,  especially  one  in  the  cathedral  represent- 
ing "  The  Judgment  of  Solomon"  The  stained 
glass  windows  of  the  cathedral  are  also  worth  a 
visit.  This  city  is  situated  on  the  river  Serchio, 
which  abounds  with  excellent  fish.  One  hour  is 
sufficient  for  seeing  all  that  is  worth  seeing,  and 
I  left  for  Pisa.\ 

At  the  station  I  was  assailed  by  a  number  of 
Cicerones,  at  least  they  call  themselves  so,  and  it 
was  with  great  difficulty,  and  after  some  time,  that 
I  could  get  rid  of  them.  I  made  my  way  to  the 
famous  Cathedral.  Pisa  is  one  of  the  oldest 
and  finest  cities  in  Italy,  and  belonged  to  the 
late  Grand  Duchy  of  Tuscany.  It  was  origin- 


PISA.  219 

ally  a  Greek  settlement,  but  in  the  time  of  Strabo 
became  a  Roman  colony.  It  is  beautifully  sit- 
uated in  a  rich  and  luxurious  country,  on  both 
sides  or  banks  of  the  Arno,  which  is  crossed  by 
three  bridges,  one  of  which  is  considered  to  be 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  Europe,  t 

In  the  tenth  century  Pisa  had  taken  the  head 
amongst  the  most  commercial  republics  of  Italy. 
It  was  the  terror  and  scourge  of  the  Saracens  and 
African  Corsairs,  and  in  time  of  war  it  was  feared 
by  its  rival  cities,  although  its  population  was  only 
150,000  inhabitants.  Eventually  it  dwindled  to  the 
number  of  17,000,  but  lately  it  has  increased  con- 
siderably, and  now  it  numbers  50,000  souls.  The 
two  great  quays  are  adorned  with  grand  edifices 
whose  fortified  appearance  show  its  warlike  days. 
The  streets  are  wide,  straight,  and  well  paved. 
The  magnificent  cathedral  was  built  by  a  Greek 
architect  and  was  the  work  of  the  eleventh  cent- 
ury. The  form  is  that  of  a  Latin  cross,  and  the 
entire  building  is  300  feet  long  and  107  wide,  its 
front  being  120  feet  in  height.  The  interior  is 
decorated  with  seventy-four  lofty  and  splendid 
columns  in  the  Corinthian  style,  and  the  magnifi- 
cent high  altar  is  enriched  with  lapis  lazuli,  verd- 
antique  and  other  precious  stones.  The  cupola 
is  ornamented  on  the  outside  with  a  number  of 
pillars,  arches,  etc.  A  grand  effect  is  given  to 
the  outside  of  the  cathedral  from  the  white  marble 
platform,  the  steps  of  which  surround  the  Duomo. 
I  felt  proud  on  looking  at  the  large  and  fine  bronze 
lamp  of  rare  workmanship,  hanging  at  the  same 


220  ITALY. 

place  in  the  middle  of  the  church  as  in  the  time  of 
the  famous  Galileo  Galilei.  This  great  philosoph- 
er was  sitting  on  a  bench  looking  at  the  men  who 
with  ladders  were  ornamenting  the  church  for  a 
festival ;  a  ladder  accidently  struck  the  lamp 
when  it  commenced  to  oscillate.  Fortunately  Ga- 
lileo Galilei  (who  was  born  in  Pisa  of  Florentine 
parentage)  observed  the  vibrations  of  the  lamp, 
reflected  upon  them,  and  conceived  the  theory  of 
the  pendulum,  which  led  him  to  those  immortal 
astronomical  discoveries,  and  brought  him  to  the 
discovery  of  the  motion  of  the  earth,  and  of  the 
system  of  Copernicus.x 

Many  stories  have  been  industriously  propagat- 
ed with  regard  to  Galileo,  by  persons  actuated  by 
a  spirit  of  prejudice  or  bigotry,  or  both.  He  was 
never  condemned  as  a  heretic,  nor  was  his  theory 
of  the  diurnal  motion  of  the  earth  ever  considered 
as  a  heresy,  nor  was  he  ever  imprisoned  for 
teaching  that  system.  By  a  decree  from  Rome, 
as  early  as  1620,  Galileo  received  express  per- 
mission to  teach  his  system  u  as  an  astronomical 
hypothesis"  This  expression  was  used  for  two 
reasons :  first,  because  this  system  at  that  time 
had  not  been  proved  to  a  demonstration  in  the 
minds  of  learned  men  ;  second,  it  was  done  in  or- 
der that  this  system  should  not  be  demonstrated 
from  the  Bible.  This  system  was  publicly  taught 
at  that  time  in  one  of  the  first  colleges  of  Rome, 
under  the  very  eyes  of  the  Holy  Office.  The  false- 
hoods, that  he  was  persecuted  and  abused  by  the 
Pope  and  cardinals,  that  he  suffered  long  and 


THE   LEANING   TOWER.  221 

cruel  treatment  in  a  frightful  dungeon,  are  suffi- 
ciently refuted  by  reading  his  own  letters,  t 

The  Baptistery  is  situated  opposite  the  cathedral, 
and  is  an  octagon  of  white,  marble,  150  feet  in 
diameter  and  160  feet  in  height.  It  is  surmount- 
ed by  a  cupola  and  cone  upon  which  is  placed  the 
statue  of  St.  John  the  Baptist.  The  front  is  orna- 
mented with  beautiful  mosaics  ;  and  the  pulpit, 
designed  by  Nicholas  Pisano,  is  a  master-piece  of 
workmanship.  From  this  pulpit  the  keeper  made 
me  hear  a  fine  echo  resounding  from  the  lofty 
vault ;  the  echo  produces  a  full  octave  of  tones, 
on  a  descending  Diatonic  scale.  The  Campo  Santo, 
from  which  every  place  of  interment  derives  its 
name,  is  a  large  rectangle  surrounded  by  sixty- 
two  beautiful  Gothic  arcades  of  white  marble,  and 
the  pavement  is  of  the  same  material.  The  earth 
was  brought  to  Pisa  by  the  famous  Lanfranco,  from 
Mount  Calvary  in  fifty  galleys,  in  1228,  and  de- 
posited on  the  spot  around  which  these  arcades  are 
built.  Although  the  building  was  finished  in  1283, 
yet  the  frescoes,  with  which  the  walls  are  decor- 
ated, are  the  work  of  the  fourteenth  or  fifteenth 
century.  I  was  much  pleased  to  see  that  these 
master-pieces  of  frescoing  were  undergoing  a 
thorough  repair  to  prevent  their  utter  ruin  ;  in 
many  places  they  are  badly  defaced. \ 

The  leaning  tower  of  Pisa  is  a  wonder  of  the 
twelfth  century,  that  age  called  "Dark;1'1  but 
which  has  produced  the  greatest  master-pieces  of 
work  now  in  existence.  The  architect  tasked  his 
brain  and  skill  to  find  a  style  to  surpass  any  other 
14 


222  ITALY. 

building  in  existence,  and  to  erect  a  monument 
which  no  age  had  ever  witnessed.     He  wanted  to 
construct  an  edifice  on  an  entirely  new  plan,  with- 
out borrowing  his  ideas  from  any  other  architect 
who  had  preceded  him.     He  succeeded  in  accom- 
plishing his  designs.     He  invented  the  model  of 
a  leaning  tower  ;  being  a  great  mathematician  he 
knew  that  it  could  be  built  without  any  fear  or 
danger  of  its  falling  down.     This  leaning  tower  is 
the  admiration  of  the  whole  world.     Several  crit- 
ical travelers  of  the  present  enlightened  age  of 
ignorance,  scepticism  and  presumption,  think  that 
the  tower  was  built  erect,  but  that  it  has  settled 
on  one  side  by  the  gradual  yielding  of  the  earth, 
but  their  opinion  does  not  find  any  encourage- 
ment.    It  is  190  feet  in  height,  consisting  of  eight 
stories  with  outside  galleries,  projecting   about 
seven  feet,    and  adorned   with  207   columns    of 
granite  and  precious  marble.     I  had  requested 
the  keeper  to  open  the  door,  because  I  wanted  to 
ascend  the  tower  after  visiting  the  Baptistery,  but 
he  informed  me  that  being  alone  I  was  not  allow- 
ed to  ascend  it.     A  recent  city  order  had  forbid- 
den the  ascension  of  the  tower  by  single  individu- 
als and  by  a  party  less  than  three  ;  the  cause  why 
the  city  had  issued  such  a  prohibition  was  be- 
cause single  individuals  on  several  occasions  had 
cast  themselves  down  from  the  top  of  the  tower ; 
but  when  a  party  of  three  or  more  are  present, 
such  suicides  might  be  prevented,  and  if  unfor- 
tunately it  should  take  place,  the  company  could 
testify  against  any  suspicion  of  foul  play.      He 


CHURCH    OF   ST.  MICHAEL.  223 

observed  that  some  other  travelers  might  come 
during  the  time  of  my  visiting  the  other  buildings. 
However,  nobody  happened  to  be  there,  but  he 
found  a  woman  and  with  himself  we  formed  a 
party  of  three.  But  I  was  obliged  to  pay  each  a 
franc  for  their  trouble,  besides  the  fee  'which  I 
paid  to  him  as  keeper.  But  one  franc  was  poor 
encouragement  for  the  woman.  The  ascent  is 
made  by  295  steps  ;  it  is  a  hard  and  laborious  task 
to  get  to  the  top,  but  the  extensive  view  from  its 
summit  is  grand  and  pays  for  the  trouble  of 
ascending  it  ;  it  is  fearful,  alarming  and  terrific  to 
look  from  the  top  down  to  the  ground,  especially 
from  the  leaning  side  ;  it  requires  strong  nerves 
to  avoid  giddiness.  The  topmost  story  overhang- 
ing the  base  on  one  side  about  fifteen  feet,  is  per- 
fectly secure  ;  the  centre  of  gravity  being  ten  feet 
within  the  base.  The  proportions  are  very  light 
and  elastic.  The  bells  are  very  heavy  and  har- 
monious ;  I  went  and  tried  their  sound,  but  not 
too  loud  for  fear  of  alarming  the  people. \ 

As  I  had  time  enough  to  visit  the  city.,  I  went 
to  see  the  palace  of  the  cardinal  and  some  other 
churches  which  are  very  imposing.  The  church 
of  St.  Michael  de1  Camandoli  is  noted  for  having 
been  the  place  where  an  (Ecumenical  Council  was 
held  in  1511,  in  which  the  bishops  did  not  behave 
as  they  should  have  done.  They  rebelled  against 
the  Pope,  abused  him  and  dared  to  pretend  to 
summon  him  to  appear  before  them.  Those 
bishops  were  a  bad  set  and  sought  only  the  friend- 
ship of  the  Emperor  Maximilian  and  the  King  of 


224  ITALY, 

France,  and  not  obedience  to  the  Yicar  of  Christ. 
The  Pope  rejected  that  council,  which  of  course 
was  null.\ 

I  entered  an  eating-house,  and  being  Friday,  I 
ordered  some  fish  which  was  from  the  river  Arno, 
and  was  exquisite.  I  had  in  addition  vege- 
tables, fine  bread,  and  wine,  and  excellent  grapes  ; 
my  bill  was  sixty  centimesr  twelve  cents  American 
money.  In  America  it  would  have  amounted  to 
a  couple  of  dollars  at  least  How  cheap  it  is  to 
live  in  Italy,  and  I  wondered  why  American 
Protestant  reports  sent  from  Italy  or  manufactur- 
ed in  America,  say,  that  the  Italians  are  poor  and 
starved.  Nothing  else  but  abundance  makes  liv- 
ing so  cheap  in  Italy. \ 

At  the  station  I  learned  that  the  cholera  was 
raging  fearfully  in  Leghorn,  and  every  train  ar- 
riving from  that  city  was  full  of  people  fleeing  to 
Pisa,  which  is  only  fourteen  miles  from  Leghorn, 
I  had  no  desire  to  expose  myself  to  the  cholera. 
I  had  seen  Leghorn  several  times  ;  it  is  a  great 
commercial  city  of  75,000  inhabitants  who  trade 
with  every  nation,  and  it  is  known  in  America  by 
the  Leghorn  straw  hats.  Its  harbor  is  large,  safe 
and  well-fortified,  but  there  is  nothing  particular 
to  be  seen  in  the  city.  The  Jews  possess  a  syna- 
gogue, and  the  English  a  meeting-house,  which  is 
looked  upon  with  contempt  even  by  the  Jews, 
who  are  numerous  in  Leghorn.  The  Italians  con- 
sider the  Protestant  religion  as  a  belief  unworthy 
of  a  person  of  sound  judgment  and  heart ;  they 
cannot  understand  how  a  man  of  education  and 


LEGHORN.  225 

integrity  can  be  a  Protestant.  They  pity  the 
Protestants  for  their  ignorance  and  pray  for  their 
speedy  return  to  the  Catholic  religion,  to  which 
all  tbeir  forefathers  belonged.  Their  meeting- 
houses are  called  by  the  Italians  in  contempt 
"  Stalle,"  (Stables),  that  is,  places  fit  only  for 
horses.,  and  not  for  beings  endowed  with  reason. \ 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FLORENCE  AND  NAPLES. 

ARRIVAL     AT     FLORENCE DUOMO BELL-TOWKR PITTI     PALACE,     ETC. — DE- 
PARTURE FOR  ROME — FOLIGNO NARNI — CHOLERA   IN   BOMB DEPARTURE  FOR 

NAPLES CEPRANO CAPUA CASERTA — NAPLES ARRIVAL    AT   GIUGLIANO 

MEETING   WITH    MY   UNCLE,  I>.  LUIGI  VETROMILE — GIUGLIANO — NAPLES  AGAIN 
DEPARTURE BENEVENTO HESPERIA.  \ 

N I  RETURNED  to  Pistoja,  and  thence  I  started  for 
Florence,  enjoying  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the 
Apennines,  on  the  summits  of  which  the  railroad 
is  built ;  between  Bologna  and  Florence  it  passes 
through  forty  perforated  mountains.  In  Florence  I 
found  my  baggage,  and  I  was  charged  five  francs 
for  storage.  I  took  up  my  residence  at  Nucci 
Hotel  et  Pension  de  Milan  in  Cerretani  street.x 

This  city  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Grand 
Duchy  of  Tuscany,  but  at  present  is  the  capital  of 
Italy.  It  has  a  population  of  130,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  beautifully  located  on  both  sides  of  the 
Arno.  Florence  is  called  La  Bella,  beautiful,  and 
no  doubt  it  deserves  that  title.  Yet  I  expected 
too  much.  Having  seen  most  of  the  principal 
cities  of  Europe,  and  visited  many  master-pieces 
of  art,  I  confess  I  found  myself  disappointed.  The 
Duomo  is  a  wonder  of  architecture.  The  outside 


FLORENCE.  227 

is  grand,  and  all  covered  with  marble.  It  is  554 
feet  long,  387  feet  high,  the  transept  nearly  334 
feet  long,  the  height  of  the  nave  152  feet,  and  that 
of  the  side  aisles  9 63  feet.  Arnolfo  di  Cambio 
da  Colle  was  expressly  requested  by  the  Floren- 
tines to  plan  the  Duomo,  or  as  it  is  called,  S.  Ma- 
ria delFiore,  formerly  Santa  Renovata,  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  erect  an  edifice  to  surpass  anything 
that  had  preceded  it.  In  fact,  after  St.  Peter's  in 
Eome,  no  building  can  compete  with  this  Duomo. 
The  large  and  lofty  dome  has  been  constructed 
with  such  consummate  architectural  skill  by  Brun- 
elleschi  that  it  served  as  a  model  to  Michael 
Angelo  for  that  of  St.  Peter's,  which  exceeds  it  in 
size.  Yet  it  appeared  to  me  as  if  the  interior 
was  unfinished.  Except  in  architecture  the  inside 
is  inferior  to  the  outside  ;  it  is  too  barren,  and  not 
all  marble  except  the  floor.  It  is  sombre  and 
gloomy  ;  a  fault  of  the  small  windows  and  the 
stained  glass.  The  front  outside  appears  unfinish- 
ed, and  this  is  the  fault  with  most  of  the  churches 
in  Florence.  Giotto  continued  the  building,  and 
Brunelleschi  completed  it.\ 

On  the  south  side  of  the  piazza  there  are  two 
statues,  master-pieces  of  art,  from  Pampaloni,  in 
honor  of  the  two  architects,  Arnolfo  and  Brunel- 
leschi. On  the  knee  of  the  latter  is  the  plan  of 
the  cupola,  and  he  is  gazing  a't  its  realization. 
Near  this  statue  is  a  stone  seat  on  which  Dante 
used  to  sit  and  contemplate  the  Cathedral.  The 
bell-tower  or  campanile  stands  on  one  side,  and 
forms  a  separate  building  from  the  Cathedral.  It 


228  FLORENCE   AND    NAPLES. 

cost  an  immense  sum,  and  is  a  light  and  quadran- 
gular marble  edifice  of  the  fourteenth  century, 
adorned  with  statues  and  fine  bas-reliefs  of  high- 
ly finished  workmanship.  It  is  275  feet  high,  and 
is  easily  ascended  by  413  steps,  and  it  is  mounted 
with  six  large  harmonious  bells.  The  Baptistery 
and  church  of  St.  Giovanni  is  also  a  detached  oc- 
tagonal building  of  white  and  black  marble,  and 
is  supposed  to  have  been  the  Temple  of  Mars. 
Dante  was  delighted  with  this  building,  to  which 
he  alludes  when  he  said,  "  Mio  bel  San  Giovanni" 
(my  beautiful  St.  John).  The  three  bronze  doors 
were  termed  by  Michael  Angelo  the  gates  of  Para- 
dise. All  the  baptisms  of  the  city  are  performed 
in  this  Baptistery  or  church.  Dante  had  the  mis- 
fortune to  break  a  portion  of  this  baptismal  font 
in  saving  a  child  from  drowning. \ 

Florence  is  surrounded  by  tastefully  laid  out 
gardens,  beautiful  groves,  and  every  variety  of 
orchards,  which  render  this  city  a  delightful  res- 
idence in  every  season  of  the  year.  It  has  a  mild 
and  healthy  atmosphere,  and  a  romantic  situation  ; 
the  cleanliness  of  the  streets,  paved  with  flags,  as 
they  are  through  all  the  towns  and  cities  of  Italy, 
the  grand  and  rich  palaces,  its  monuments  of  the 
fine  arts,  the  magnificence  of  the  four  stone  bridges 
that  span  the  Arno,  in  a  word,  nature  and  art 
combine  to  make  Florence  a  beautiful  spot. 
Much  of  this  is  due  to  the  Medici  family,  who 
spared  no  pains  or  expense  to  adorn  and  dignify 
this  city.  The  character  of  that  time  is  yet  visi- 
ble in  Florence.  The  buildings  are  generally  cal- 


PITTI   PALACE.  229 

culated  for  offence  and  defence — a  thing  rendered 
necessary  by  the  civil  wars  of  the  period.  The 
architecture  of  the  buildings,  destitute  of  the 
peaceful  elegance  of  the  Grecian  style,  is,  howev- 
er, characterized  by  dignity,  simplicity  and  solid- 
ity. Such  is  the  Palazzo  Pitti,  once  the  residence 
of  the  Grand  Duke,  with  its  famous  gallery  con- 
taining gems  of  the  fine  arts,  near  the  beautiful 
Boboli  gardens.  Such  are  also  the  Strozzi  and 
Riccardi  Palaces,  (formerly  the  Medici,)  and  the 
irregular  old  Senate  house.  I  entered  the  Royal 
Palace,  occupied  by  Victor  Emmanuel,  king  of 
Italy,  but  I  found  nothing  extra  in  it.  I  visited 
also  the  houses  of  Dante,  Galileo,  Michael  Angelo, 
Macchiavelli,  Alfieri,  and  several  other  great  men, 
born  in  Florence.  Galileo  was  born  in  Pisa,  but 
the  family  belonged  to  this  city.  Florence,  the 
cradle  of  science,  literature  and  art,  was  the  na- 
tive place  of  a  crowd  of  great  men.  Besides  the 
above-mentioned,  Boccaccio,  Petrarca,  Alemanni, 
Guicciardini,  Vespucci,  Alberti,  etc.,  were  born 
in  this  city.x 

The  great  persecutor  of  my  travels  in  Italy,  I 
mean  the  Asiatic  cholera,  was  very  bad  in  this 
city,  and  I  soon  left  for  Rome,  where  it  was  still 
worse.  I  did  not  wish  to  stop  at  any  place  .on  the 
road,  but  I  only  enjoyed  the  fine  view  of  the  Ap- 
peiiine  mountains.  When  we  arrived  at  a  cor- 
ner of  the  Roman  States  which  the  railway  cuts 
through  for  a  short  distance,  the  train  took  on 
board  a  Roman  policeman,  who  was  landed  again 
on  reaching  the  frontier^ 


230  FLORENCE   AND   NAPLES. 

Being  Saturday  I  stopped  at  Foligno.  At  the 
station  I  was  surrounded  by  coach-drivers,  but  I 
wanted  none  of  them,  as  I  intended  to  stop  at  a 
hotel  near  the  station.  One  coachman  followed 
nae  with  great  importunity,  but  a  policeman  res- 
cued me,  and  threatened  to  imprison  that  driver, 
whom  he  rebuked  strongly  for  troubling  the  pas- 
sengers in  such  a  manner.  The  hotel  was  very 
good.  Next  day,  Sunday,  I  said  mass  at  the  Cathe- 
dral. The  city  is  good  but  old  fashioned  ;  I  did 
not  like  it  very  much.  The  population  must  be 
above  12,000  inhabitantsA 

In  the  afternoon  I  left  for  Rome.  At  Nar- 
ni,  the  Roman  frontier,  I  was  asked  for  my  pass- 
port the  first  time  since  I  left  America ;  here 
all  the  baggage  was  inspected.  The  officer  wanted 
to  keep  my  passport,  but  I  did  not  like  to  leave  it 
because  I  was  going  to  Naples,  but  they  took  it 
and  gave  me  a  receipt  for  it,  and  told  me  that  I 
would  find  it  at  Ceprano,  the  other  frontier  towards 
Naples.  On  the  road  I  heard  terrible  reports  of 
the  cholera  in  Rome,  and  several  friends  in  the 
cars  advised  me  not  to  stop  in  Rome  ;  they  report- 
ed to  me  several  cases  of  death  every  day.  A 
gentleman  in  the  cars  said  that  a  few  days  ago  a 
man  who  had  taken  a  drove  of  cattle  into  Rome 
in  the  evening,  was  a  corpse  the  next  day.  I  con- 
cluded to  follow  their  advice,  intending  to  return 
afterwardsA 

We  arrived  at  Rome  at  9  P.  M.  The  station  is 
an  abominable  one.  There  was  no  parlor,  (salle 
cPattendrej)  and  the  ticket  office  was  in  the  street. 


ROME   TO    CAPUA.  231 

This  is  one  of  the  worst  stations,  for  a  large  city, 
that  I  have  seen.  I  was  told  that  they  were  build- 
ing a  new  and  better  one.  I  took  supper,  and  at 
10  P.  M.  I  left  for  Naples.  In  a  short  time,  in  the 
night,  we  arrived  at  Ceprano  where  my  passport 
was  returned  to  me,  and  at  Isoletta,  the  other 
Italian  frontier,  the  baggage  was  again  inspected 
very  politely.  We  changed  cars  and  left  for  Capua; 
after  a  few  miles  the  cars  were  stopped  again, 
and  we  were  asked  for  our  tickets.  A  gentleman 
who  had  several  times  attempted  to  sleep,  here 
got  in  a  fit  of  passion  for  being  continually  inter- 
rupted from  rest.  He  got  in  a  passion  and  severely 
denounced  the  managers  of  the  road  between 
Rome  and  Naples.  It  was,  no  doubt,  a  vexation. 
During  the  same  night  our  passports  were  ex- 
amined twice  ;  our  baggage  was  opened  and  in- 
spected twice  ;  three  times  we  were  called  on  for 
tickets,  and  changed  cars  twice.  It  required  great 
patience.  In  the  morning  we  were  in  the  station  of 
Capua.  This  is  a  fortified  city  of  18,000  inhabi- 
tants, on  the  Volturno.  It  lies  near  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Capua,  whose  ruins  were  used  to  build  the 
present  city.  Many  interesting  remains  can  yet 
be  seen.  The  ancient  Capua  was  the  rival  of 
Rome  and  was  a  great  and  agreeable  city,  and 
it  ranked  with  Rome  and  Carthage.  It  was  the 
place  where  Hannibal  went  into  quarters  after 
the  battle  of  Cannae.  It  was  pillaged  in  succes- 
sion by  the  Yandals  and  Lombards.  Close  to  the 
city  we  passed  through  the  Campanian  fields,  fa- 
mous for  their  rich  soil,  which  produces  three 
crops  a  year.v 


232  FLORENCE    AND   NAPLES. 

Caserta  is  a  small  town,  but  celebrated  for  the 
Royal  Palace,  which  is  considered  to  be  the  most 
magnificent  in  Europe.  The  falls  are  worth  a 
visit,  It  was  a  beautiful  morning  when  I  arrived 
in  Naples.  Its  charming  atmosphere  and  the  beau- 
ties of  the  villas  awoke  in  me  the  former  spirit  of 
youth,  and  my  associative  ideas  ;  I  did  not  feel 
as  a  stranger.  I  asked  how  the  cholera  was,  and 
they  told  me  *'  very  bad,  about  forty  or  fifty  cases  a 
day."  I  resolved  to  make  no  stay  in  Naples, 
My  baggage  was  only  opened  and  closed  again  at 
th£  station  by  the  city  officers  who  are  appointed  to 
collect  the  duties  on  wines,  meat,  and  a  few  other 
articles,  in  entering  the  city  limits.  I  drove  to 
the  Hotel  de  Geneve,  a  respectable,  reasonable 
and  first-class  hotel.  I  went  to  the  bank  at  the 
American  Consulate,  in  the  Largo  del  Castello,  and 
after  three  hours'  delay  in  Naples,  with  four  francs 
I  hired  a  carriage  for  Giugliano,  a  town  about  nine 
miles  from  Naples,  situated  in  a  luxuriant  and  rich 
country.  As  I  had  arrived  at  Naples  sooner  than 
I  expected,  my  uncle  Sig.  D.  Luigi  Vetromile,  was 
not  looking  for  me  so  soon.  Not  knowing  the 
Palace  where  he  dwelt,  I  ordered  my  vetturino  to 
drive  to  the  best  hotel.  He  took  me  to  a  dirty 
bettola,  (a  place  where  wine  was  sold  by  retail,) 
with  a  stable  attached  to  it.  I  refused  to  enter  it, 
and  on  remonstrating  with  the  vetturino,  he  told 
me  that  that  was  the  best  hotel  in  the  place.  I 
did  not  alight,  but  directed  him  to  make  some  in- 
quiries  about  my  uncle.  Being  a  primary  magis- 
trate of  the  Italian  government,  according  to  the 

/U3; 


MY    RELATIVES.  233 

custom  of  the  place  he  was  known  by  his  official 
title  and  not  by  his  name  ;  hence  the  difficulty  in 
looking  after  him  by  his  name.  The  vetturino 
could  gain  no  information.  I  was  obliged  to  stop 
at  that  dirty  bettola,  and  I  sent  him  again  to  in- 
quire about  my  uncle  in  some  public  office,  but 

fortunately  he  met  with  Chevalier  N N , 

an  intimate  friend  of  my  uncle,  so  at  once  I  drove 
to  his  residence,  and  with  my  carriage,  entered 
the  large  covered  yard  of  that  immense  Palace. 
He  was  at  home,  and  on  hearing  the  sound  of  the 
carriage  and  the  voices  of  the  servants  in  the  court- 
yard, suspecting  that  it  might  be  his  nephew,  he 
rushed  from  the  apartment  at  the  left  of  the  sec- 
ond story,  and  we  met  together  in  the  middle  piaz- 
za of  the  covered  stairs.  I  had  not  seen  him  for 
over  a  quarter  of  a  century,  but  it  did  not  take 
us  long  to  recognize  each  other.  I  could  not  re- 
strain the  tears  from  flowing  from  my  eyes  on  em- 
bracing him  who  had  been  a  kind  and  good  school- 
mate, and  the  companion  of  my  youth.  He  intro- 
duced to  me  Mrs.  Marianna  Verdi,  his  wife,  and 
his  two  sons,  Salvadore  and  Joseph,  and  his  two 
daughters,  Luisa  and  Concerta,  who  being  married, 
introduced  me  to  her  husband  ;  so  I  found  myself 
surrounded  by  a  large  circle  of  loving  relatives. 
As  I  intended  to  go  immediately  to  Gallipolis,  I 
consented  to  remain  only  for  a  few  days.  On  Sun- 
day and  other  days  I  said  mass  at  the  Collegiate 
Church,  whose  kind  Rector  invited  me,  after 
mass,  to  breakfast.\ 

Giugliano  is  a  tolerably  good-looking  place,  it 


234          FLORENCE  AND  NAPLES. 

has  two  fine  churches,  whose  harmonious  pealing 
bells  were  very  pleasing  to  my  ears.  The  churches 
contain  some  excellent  paintings  and  marbles.  The 
streets  would  be  tolerably  good  if  they  were  kept 
clean,  but  Giugliano  makes  no  pretensions  to  be- 
ing a  clean  town,  although  it  contains  some  very 
fine  Palaces.  It  has  no  hotels,  and  it  is  surpris- 
ing that  many  villages  around  Naples,  a  city  fa- 
mous for  its  progress  in  civilization,  are  yet  very 
backward  in  cleanliness,  and  other  comforts  of 
which  Naples  is  an  immense  source.  The  defi- 
ciency of  great  inns  and  other  improvements  has 
been  explained  to  me  in  a  satisfactory  manner. 
Giugliano  and  other  villages  around  Naples  being 
too  near  to  that  great  metropolis,  stand  in  no 
need  of  hotels,  because  strangers  and  travelers 
prefer  to  stop  in  Naples,  and  for  ten  cents  they 
can  find  a  seat  in  a  carriage  or  coach  at  all  times. 
It  is  not  so  around  the  Bay  of  Naples,  where  first- 
class  hotels  are  common,  reasonable  and  comfort- 
.  able  ;  strangers  go  there  expressly  to  stop  and  en- 
joy the  views  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  Hotels  in 
Italy  are  superior  to  those  of  any  other  country. 
They  are  clean,  comfortable  and  accommodating. 
They  are  not  like  the  first-class  hotels  in  Boston. 
New  York,  Washington,  and  other  places,  where, 
when  a  stranger  presents  himself  he  must  beg  for 
a  room,  and  must  consider  it  a  great  favor  if  the 
landlord  condescends  to  speak  to  him,  and  grant 
him  some  corner  in  the  top  of  the  hotel,  for  which 
he  must  pay  a  high  price.  \ 

I  went  to  Naples  several  times  to  make  some 


DEPARTURE   FROM    GIUGLIANO.  235 

purchases,  and  found  prices  very  reasonable,  and 
articles  good  ;  but  the  cholera  was  raging.  One 
day,  driving  in  an  open  carriage,  in  company  with 
my  cousin  and  nieces,  through  Strada  Medina,  one 
of  the  most  crowded  streets  of  Naples,  I  saw  the 
entire  crowd  take  off  their  hats  and  fall  on  their 
knees.  All  carriages,  which,  by  their  immense 
number,  nearly  obstruct  that  street,  stopped  ; 
it  was  a  parish  priest  passing  with  the  Blessed 
Sacrament,  going  publicly  in  procession,  ac- 
cording to  the  rubrics  of  the  Church,  to  ad- 
minister the  last  Sacraments  to  a  sick  person. 
My  driver  wanting  to  take  advantage  of  the  stop- 
page of  the  other  carriages  to  get  ahead  of  the  rest, 
continued  to  drive,  but  I  sprang  at  his  neck  and 
made  him  stop  at  once.  I  knelt  in  the  carriage, 
and  my  heart  rejoiced,  observing  that  the  relig- 
ious feelings  of  the  Neapolitans  were  as  firm  and 
solid  as  ever,  notwithstanding  the  calumnies  cir- 
culated by  ignorant  and  bigoted  people.\ 

I  left  Giugliano  for  Naples  in  the  carriage  of 

Chevalier  N N ,  accompanied  by  all  my 

relations,  and  as  the  railroad  from  Naples  to  the 
south  of  Italy  was  not  yet  finished,  I  was  obliged 
to  go  by  diligence  as  far  as  Bovino.  In  the  coach 
there  were  only  two  other  passengers,  the  Gov- 
ernor of  the  province  of  Lecce,  where  I  was  going, 
and  another  gentleman,  both  well  acquainted  with 
my  brother  Ferdinand,  judge  of  the  Supreme 
Court.  We  passed  through  the  fertile  Campania. 
Yineyards,  orchards  of  fig-trees,  pomegranates, 
and  every  kind  of  fruit,  luxuriant  gardens  of  a 


236  FLORENCE    AND   NAPLES. 

variety  of  excellent  vegetables  and  the  tall  pine 
trees  loaded  with  their  delicious  fruit,  lined  the 
road.  These  pine  trees  are  different  from  the 
barren  American  pines  ;  the  fruit  is  of  the  shape 
and  size  of  a  pine-apple,  but  it  is  very  hard.  It 
must  be  put  in  the  fire  when  it  opens  like  a  rose, 
and  the  inside  contains  a  large  number  of  kernels 
of  delicious  flavor,  and  very  luscious.x 

We  passed  through  several  neat  villages  sur- 
rounded by  rich  and  charming  gardens  and  fields. 
At  Acerra,  a  small  village  of  about  7.000  inhab- 
itants, the  native  place  of  the  comic  Pulcinella 
(Puncinello)  as  it  is  commonly  believed.  We 
provided  ourselves  with  a  supply  of  fine  bread 
and  asprinio,  a  kind  of  wine,  so  called  because  it 
is  made  from  grapes  of  that  name,  very  abundant 
in  this  place.  This  wine  is  not  relished  in  Ameri- 
ca, Last  year  a  cargo  arrived  in  New  York  which 
at  first  could  find  no  sale,  but  as  soon  at  it  came  to 
the  notice  of  a  French  merchant,  he  purchased  the 
entire  cargo  to  make  champagne.  It  was  with  dif- 
ficulty that  I  could  get  a  cask  of  it,  in  order  to  use  for 
mass.  It  is  a  light  white  wine,  of  a  peculiar  taste, 
having  a  little  resemblance  to  cider,  and  is  abun- 
dant and  cheap.  Here  we  provided  ourselves  with 
many  muzzarelle,  a  kind  of  curd,  which  I  have 
never  seen  in  America.  We  made  these  provis- 
ions for  crossing  the  Apennines,  where,  amongst 
the  mountains,  we  might  find  no  refreshments.\ 

We  passed  the  territory  of  the  Samnites,  fa- 
mous in  Roman  history  for  their  valor  in  war,  and 
love  of  liberty.  They  were  subdued  by  the  Ro- 


BENEVENTO.  237 

mans  with  great  difficulty,  and  after  many  bloody 
battles,  4,000  of  them  being  at  last  cruelly  put  to 
death  by  order  of  Sylla,  on  the  Campus  Martius, 
in  482.  We  went  through  that  narrow  pass  near 
the  city  of  Caudium,  where,  in  433,  the  Koman 
army  were  obliged,  by  the  Samnites,  to  submit  to 
the  disgrace  of  passing  under  the  yoke  ;  yet  the 
Samnites  proved  to  be  more  generous  and  humane 
than  the  Romans.  The  Romans  rejected  the  peace 
concluded  on  such  humiliating  terms  by  the  cap- 
tive consuls,  and  delivering  up  the  authors  of  it  to 
the  Samnites,  continued  the  war.  Pyrrhus,  king 
of  Epirus,  being  invited  by  the  city  of  Tarentum, 
assisted  the  Samnites  against  the  Romans,  but  fi- 
nally the  Romans  were  victorious./ 

In  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  Benevento,  an 
ancient  city,  once  a  Dukedom,  in  the  time  of  the 
Lombards,  but  after  the  extinction  of  their  king- 
dom it  remained  independent.  It  was  afterwards 
occupied  by  the  Saracens  and  Normans,  but  Henry 
III.  had  given  it  to  Pope  Leo  IX.  ;  now  it  forms  a 
part  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy.  It  contains  about 
25,000  inhabitants,  but  is  gloomy,  foggy  and  badly 
built.  It  is  surrounded  by  two  rivers,  the  Sabato 
and  Galore.  It  has  many  antiquities  and  figures 
often  in  ancient  and  modern  history.\ 

Benevento  has  many  fine  churches  and  palaces  ; 
the  Cathedral  is  a  large,  splendid  Gothic  building, 
but  it  is  too  gloomy.  The  magnificent  triumphal 
arch  of  Trajan  is  a  fine  monument,  built  in  the 
year  114.  In  a  former  visit  to  this  city,  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  being  introduced  to  Cardinal  Pacca,  so 
15 


238  FLORENCE   AND   NAPLES. 

well  known  for  having  accompanied  Pope  Pius 
VII.  to  France,  when  he  was  taken  prisoner  by 
Napoleon  I.\ 

This  part  of  southern  Italy,  where  I  have  now 
commenced  to  travel,  has  been  rendered  still  more 
famous  by  the  immortal  Bishop  Fenelon  in  his 
world-renowned  Telemachus.  This  is  that  part 
of  Hesperia,  called  so  by  Hesperus,  son  of  Atlas, 
who,  persecuted  by  his  father  on  account  of  his 
passionate  love  of  astronomy,  fled  to  Italy.  The 
Italians  paid  him  divine  honors.  The  Apulians 
are  described  by  Fenelon  as  of  gigantic  stature, 
brawny  and  robust,  on  account  of  their  athletic 
exercise.  In  time  of  war  they  were  covered  with 
the  skins  of  the  wild  beasts  slain  by  them,  and 
armed  themselves  with  clubs  covered  with  knots 
and  stuck  full  of  won  spikes.\ 


CHAPTER  X. 

APULIA. 

\  CROSSING    THE    APENNINES ARIANO BOVINO FOGGIA — APULIA    OR    IAPYGIA 

DAUNUS  AND     DAUNI — MOUNT   GARGANUS — ST.    MICHAEL    ARCHANGEL — BARESB 

OR  PAUCET1ANS — CANNE VENOSA,  NATIVE  COUNTRY  OF  HORACE — BASILIC  ATA  OR 

LUC ANIA BARI — SANCTUARY  AND  BODY  OF  ST.  NICHOLAS — COUNCIL  OF  BARI DE- 
SCRIPTION OF  THE  PEOPLK  OF  THIS  PART  OF  APULIA,  BY  FENELON LECCESE  OR 

MESSAPIA — BRINDISI — MEETING  WITH  MY  BROTHER — LECCE — SALENTUM DE- 
PARTURE FOR  GALLIPOLIS MEETING  WITH  MY  OTHER  BROTHER,  ETC. RECEP- 
TION AT  GALLIPOLIS THE  CITY CUSTOMS  OF  THE  PEOPLE PHALANTUS DE- 
PARTURE  FAILURE  TO  CREATE  A  SENSATION  TO  HAVING  ROME  FOR  THE  CAPI- 
TAL— THE  APENNINES  AGAIN — MOUNTFORTE — CUSTOM  HOUSE  IN  NAPLES 

NAPLES  AGAIN,  AND  MEETING  WITH  MY  UNCLE.  \ 

\WE  passed  through  a  charming  and  beautiful 
valley,  and  late  in  the  afternoon  commenced  again 
to  ascend  the  Apennines.  These  chains  of  moun- 
tains run  from  the  Alps  through  the  entire  length 
of  Italy,  and  separating  in  different  directions  near 
Tarentum,  one  short  branch  of  hills  goes  through 
the  province  of  Lecce  to  Cape  St.  Maria  di  Leuca, 
the  other  to  Calabria.  It  is  broken  by  the  Strait 
of  Messina  but  it  continues  to  Sicily.x 

The  Apennines  are  not  barren,  rocky  moun- 
tains, but  contain  rich  soil,  and  are  well  cultivated. 
Many  luxuriant  chestnut  and  walnut  forests  are 
also  found  in  the  Apennines,  especially  towards 
Calabria.  About  midnight  we  had  ascended  to 
the  highest  top  of  this  chain  of  mountains.  We 


240  APULIA. 

arrived  at  Ariano  where  we  changed  horses,  and 
we  had  time  to  take  some  refreshments .\ 

I  had  visited  this  city  on  other  occasions.  It 
is  situated  on  the  top  of  one  of  the  highest  points 
of  the  Central  Apennines,  is  well  fortified,  and 
contains  about  12,000  inhabitants.  But  it  is  old- 
fashioned  and  very  irregular.  The  streets  are 
narrow  and  crooked.  Here  we  were  obliged  to 
use  oxen  on  account  of  the  steepness  of  the  moun- 
tain. We  descended  from  Ariano  to  the  valley, 
and  soon  commenced  to  ascend  another  steep  and 
high  mountain.  This  is  the  last  range  of  the 
Apennines  before  the  fine  plains  of  Apulia.  With 
good  reason  these  plains  are  called  the  Granaries 
of  Apulia,  on  account  of  the  abundant  harvests  of 
grain  gathered  every  year.\ 

We  reached  Bovino,  a  small  city  of  6,000  in- 
habitants, but  well  fortified,  and  situated  on  the 
top  of  a  mountain.  We  soon  descended  to  the  rail- 
way station.  The  tunneling  of  the  Apennines 
is  expected  to  be  finished  in  the  course  of  the  next 
two  years,  then  the  railroad  will  be  connected 
with  Naples.  In  less  than  one  hour  and  a  half, 
passing  through  the  perfectly  level  Apulian  coun- 
try, we  arrived  at  Foggia,  to  meet  the  train  which, 
from  the  north  of  Italy,  goes  to  the  extreme  point 
of  the  south  to  Otranto.x 

Foggia  is  a  handsome  city,  situated  on  the  river 
Cervera,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Cap- 
itanata,  with  a  population  of  18,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  well  built,  and  possesses  some  good  edifices. 
The  commerce  of  this  place  is  extensive.  It  has 


FOGGIA.  241 

some  very  fine  churches,  and  the  Cathedral  is  real- 
ly handsome.  Yet  the  condition  of  the  present 
Apulia  is  very  inferior  to  what  it  was  in  ancient 
times.  It  is  only  a  melancholy  relic  of  the  old 
splendor  which  poets  and  historians  have  cele- 
brated as  in  the  time  of  the  Carthagenians.  It  is 
the  ancient  lapygia,  so-called  from  lapix,  son 
of  Dsedalus,  and  it  included  the  territory  be- 
tween the  river  Siris  and  Mount  Grarganus.  In 
order  to  give  a  correct  idea  of  the  former  greatness 
of  this  section  of  the  country,  it  is  sufficient  to 
mention  that  the  great  historians  Plutarchus  and 
Polybius  recorded  that,  when  the  Tarentini  vis- 
ited Phyrrus  to  assist  them  against  the  Romans, 
they  had  already  an  army  of  350,000  infantry  sol- 
diers, and  20,000  cavalry.  This  great  army  was 
composed  only  of  lapygians,  Lucanians,  Messap- 
ians,  Samnites  and  Tarentines.  Its  inhabitants 
are  the  ancient  Dauni  or  Apulians.  Latin  tradi- 
tion testifies  that  Daunus  expelled  from  Illyria, 
settled  in  this  part  of  Italy,  and  was  made  king  of 
the  Apulians.  Many  of  the  wandering  heroes  of  the 
Trojan  war  settled  in  this  section  of  the  country. 
Diomed  retired  to  Apulia,  and,  supported  by 
Daunus,  made  war  on  the  Messapians  or  Salen- 
tines,  whom  he  subdued.  These  are  the  Daun- 
ians  of  whom  Fenelon  speaks  in  his  Telemachus. 
They,  under  Adrastus,  their  king,  made  war 
against  Phalantus,  king  of  Tarentum.  He  went 
with  one  hundred  transport  vessels,  attacked  the 
enemy,  killed  Phalantus  and  Tppia,  but  Telemachus 
ran  to  the  rescue  of  Phalantus'  army,  and  killed 


242  APULIA. 

Iphicles,  son  of  Adrastus,  and  defeated  the  en- 
tire army.  Idomeneus  was  often  attacked  by  the 
Daunux 

The  railroad  passes  close  to  Mount  Garganus, 
famous  for  the  apparition  of  St.  Michael  the  arch- 
angel. I  will  relate  the  authentic  fact  of  this  mi- 
raculous apparition,  as  it  stands  recorded  by  pub- 
lic notaries  in  the  archives  of  Manfredonia,  and  as 
it  is  related  by  tradition,  by  all  the  inhabitants  of 
the  mountain,  and  of  Apulia  in  general.  These 
records  have  been  examined  by  the  judicious 
critic  Mabillon,  who  visited  these  localities.  Sige- 
bert  confirms  this  fact  in  his  chronicle.  Many 
other  writers  have  proved  the  authenticity  of  this 
apparition.  The  facts  are  as  follows  :\ 

In  the  fifth  century  a  bull  of  the  herds  pastur- 
ing on  the  Garganus  mountains  had  been  lost,  and 
after  searches  had  been  made,  it  was  found  at  the 
mouth  of  a  cavern  on  the  mountain.  One  of  the 
shepherds  shot  an  arrow  to  kill  it,  but  without  ef- 
fect, the  arrow  returning  to  the  hand  by  which  it 
was  sent.  It  was  repeated  by  several  persons 
but  with  no  different  success,  so  that  nobody 
dared  approach  the  cavern.  They  referred  this 
fact  to  the  bishop  of  Sipontum,  now  Manfredonia^ 
who  ordered  a  fast  for  three  days,  after  which 
St.  Michael  appeared  to  him,  saying,  that  that 
cavern  was  under  his  protection,  and  that  he  wish- 
ed in  that  place  a  sacrifice  to  be  offered  to  God  in 
his  honor  and  in  honor  of  all  angels.  The  Bishop, 
with  the  Sipontine  people,  went  in  procession  to 
the  mountain  and  they  found  the  interior  of  that 


CANNE.  243 

cavern  constructed  in  the  form  of  a  temple.  Now 
there  is  a  magnificent  church  built  in  this  place, 
erected  in  the  fifth  century,  whose  solemn  dedi- 
cation the  Church  celebrates  with  great  pomp,  in 
every  part  of  the  world,  on  the  29th  of  Septem- 
ber.\ 

To  this  sanctuary  the  Emperor  Otho  III.,  in 
1002  walked  barefooted  on  a  penitential  pilgrim- 
age for  having  put  to  death,  in  violation  of  his 
pledged  word,  Crescentius,  a  Roman  Senator.  To 
this  sanctuary  the  people  of  Apulia  often  go  in 
procession  and  pilgrimage,  to  obtain  intercession 
and  graces.  Many  miracles  have  been  and  are 
performed  in  this  place.  In  cases  of  pestilence, 
famine,  war,  great  drought,  and  other  plagues, 
the  inhabitants  go  in  penitential  procession,  fast- 
ing and  praying,  to  this  sanctuary,  to  implore  the 
mercy  of  God,  through  the  intercession  of  their 
patron,  Saint  Michael  the  archangelA 

We  crossed  the  Ofanto,  the  ancient  Aufdus, 
(celebrated  by  Horace,)  and  entered  the  Barese, 
the  land  of  the  ancient  Peucetians.  This  is  the 
scene  of  the  second  Punic  war.  The  little  village 
of  Canne  is  immortalized  as  being  the  spot  where 
an  immense  Roman  army  was  cut  to  pieces  by 
Hannibal,  leaving  60,000  Romans  dead  on  the 
field.  Amongst  those  who  fell  were  JErnilius  Paulus 
and  Proconsuls  Servilius  and  Atilius.  I  saw  the 
massive  gate  of  Canne,  the  only  remains  of  that 
ancient  and  populous  city.  In  one  of  my  former 
visits  to  these  classic  localities,  I  saw  in  Canosa, 
the  tomb  of  Boliemond,  Prince  of  Antioch,  and 


244  APULIA. 

a  museum  containing  valuable  Roman  and  Cartha- 
genian  relics,  coins,  rings,  etc.,  which  are  contin- 
ually found  in  this  territory.  In  this  place  there 
is  a  fine  church.  Not  far  from  this  field  is  the 
city  of  Venosa  (  Venusia),  on  the  Ofanto,  the  na- 
tive place  of  the  immortal  Horace,  in  the  Basili- 
cata,  the  ancient  I/wxmia  ;  the  name  is  derived 
from  Lux  (light),  on  account  of  the  high  moun- 
tains exposed  to  the  sun.  The  inhabitants  are 
described  by  Fenelon  as  going  to  war  with  char- 
iots armed  with  scythes .\ 

Barletta  is  a  finely  built  city  of  18,000  inhabi- 
tants, handsomely  located  on  the  Adriatic  sea.  It 
is  a  manufacturing  place,  and  its  commerce  is  very 
extensive.  The  streets  are  spacious,  regular  and 
clean.  In  a  few  minutes  we  arrived  at  Trani,  an- 
other handsome  city  on  the  Adriatic.  This  city 
has  a  magnificent  Cathedral,  and  contains  15,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  neat  and  beautiful,  and  its  com- 
merce, especially  in  olive  oil,  is  large.  The  streets 
are  regular,  wide  and  clean,  and  ornamented  in  a 
tasteful  manner  with  a  variety  of  trees.\ 

Molfetta,  Bisceglie,  Bitonto,  Giovinazzo,  are  fine 
cities  on  the  line  of  railroad,  and  are  known  for 
their  excellent  wines  and  oils.  Each  of  these 
thriving  cities  has  about  12,000  inhabitants,  who 
peacefully  enjoy  the  luxurious  abundance  of  the 
land  and  sea.  Bari  is  the  capital  of  the  province  ; 
it  is  handsomely  located  on  the  Adriatic,  and  is  the 
place  where  the  kings  of  Naples  were  formerly 
crowned.  The  king  of  Naples  is  a  canon  of  the 
Cathedral  of  this  city,  and  has  the  right  to  dress 


BARI.  245 

like  the  other  canons  and  sit  with  them  in  a  stall 
behind  the  high  altar./ 

In  my  time  Ferdinand  IT.  passing  through  this 
city  made  use  of  this  right,  and  afterwards  he 
made  a  present  of  his  canonicals  and  benefitium  at- 
tached to  it  to  the  clerk  who  unbuttoned  the  silver 
clasp  of  his  cappa  magna  ;  but  now  I  suppose  that 
Victor  Emmanuel  has  done  away  with  this  middle- 
age  barbarism,  and  abdicated  his  canonicals./ 

Bari,  the  ancient  Barium,  has  a  population  of 
over  20, 000  inhabitants,  and  possesses  a  fine  har- 
bor. This  city  has  figured  well  in  the  annals  of  the 
Church.  Nearly  the  whole  of  Apulia  was  under 
the  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  of  the  Patriarch  of 
St.  Sophia  in  Constantinople.  The  ritual  was 
Greek,  as  it  still  remains  in  many  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, and  when  the  Patriarch  of  Constantinople  re- 
fused obedience  to  Rome,  the  bishop  'of  Bari  and 
his  flocks  refused  obedience  to  the  Patriarch  and 
remained  faithful  to  Rome.  A  Council  held  in  this 
city  condemned  Michael  Cerularius,  the  schismatic 
Patriarch  of  Constantinople.  This  is  the  first 
council  in  which  that  proud,  worldly  and  disobe- 
dient prelate  was  condemned. \ 

Here  is  the  famous  sanctuary  where  the  body 
of  St.  Nicholas  is  kept.  Here  is  also  the  Hall  in 
which  the  Council  of  Bari  was  held  in  October  of 
the  year  1098,  which,  although  it  is  not  numbered 
amongst  the  (Ecumenical  councils,  yet  was  a  very 
important  one.\ 

It  was  convoked  by  Urban  II.,  who  presided  in 
person,  and  there  were  present  one  hundred  and 


246  APULIA. 

twenty-three  bishops.  There  was  also  present  the 
famous  Doctor  of  the  Church,  St.  Anselm,  arch- 
bishop of  Canterbury,  exiled  by  William  Rufus, 
the  wicked  king  of  England.  The  object  of  this 
council  was  the  reconciliation  of  the  Greeks. 
The  doctrine  of  the  Holy  Ghost  proceeding  from 
the  Father  and  the  Son  was  defined.  The  Greeks 
did  not  deny,  and  they  never  had,  that  the  Holy 
Ghost  did  not  proceed  also  from  the  Son.  They  only 
asserted  that  the  Holy  Ghost  did  not  proceed  from 
the  Son  in  the  same  manner  as  He  did  from  the 
Father,  because  the  Holy  Ghost  proceeds  from  the 
Father,  a  principle  sine  principio  j  from  the 
Son,  a  principio  ex  principio,  calling  the  first 
principium  quo ;  the  second  principium  quod, 
which  school  distinction  does  not  assert  that  the 
Holy  Ghost  proceeds  from  two  principles,  but  only 
from  one  principle,  yet  differently  from  the  Father 
and  the  Son,  on  account  of  the  mutual  relation  of 
these  two  Divine  persons.  This  they  proved  from 
St.  Paul.  (1  Cor.  8.)  "  Unus  Deus  Pater  ex  quo 

omnia Unus  Dominus  Jesus  Christus,per 

quern  omnia"! 

This  they  proved  also  by  the  doctrine  of  St. 
Basil,  St.  Cyril  and  other  Greek  Fathers  ;  and  this 
is  the  doctrine  of  the  Catholic  Church.  It  is  a 
fact  that  the  Church  does  not  condemn  the  Greeks 
as  heretics  but  only  as  schismatics.  The  scholas- 
tic distinction  being  not  well  understood  by  the 
Latins,  who  were  not  well  acquainted  with  the 
scholastic  forms  of  the  Greek  language,  caused  a 
suspicion  that  the  Greeks  did  not  admit  the  pro- 
cession of  the  Holy  Ghost  from  the  Son.\ 


PROVINCE   OF   LECCE.  247 

Here,  at  the  instance  of  the  Council  the  Pope 
was  about  to  excommunicate  the  king  of  England 
for  his  simony  oppression  of  the  Church,  persecu- 
tion of  St.  Anselmus,  and  for  his  obstinacy 
after  several  admonitions  ;  but  at  this  time  St. 
Anselm  rose  up,  and  casting  himself  on  his  knees 
before  the  Pope,  entreated  him  to  withhold  the 
censure.  The  Saint's  petition  in  behalf  of  his 
Sovereign  was  granted,  and  the  Pope  sent  only  a 
threat  of  excommunication./ 

The  railroad  passes  through  a  beautiful,  rich 
and  highly  cultivated  country  ;  a  territory  bloom- 
ing with  olive  trees,  fig  trees,  almonds,  pomegran- 
ates, and  a  great  variet}"  of  fruit-trees.  Vine- 
yards are  numerous,  and  they  are  not  cultivated 
in  the  style  of  the  Campagna,  where,  on  account 
of  two  much  sap  and  watery  soil,  the  vines  must 
be  brought  up  to  a  considerable  height  on  poplar- 
trees,  and  the  branches  of  the  vines  extended  and 
tied  from  tree  to  tree.  Here  the  land  is  strong, 
and  the  vines  are  trained  low  without  any  support ; 
the  grapes  form  just  where  the  vines  shoot  out 
their  branches,  and  so  near  the  ground  as  to  touch 
the  earth  in  many  cases. \ 

We  passed  Noia,  Mola,  Polignano,  Monopoli  and 
Fasano,  all  handsome  cities  of  about  8,000  inhab- 
itants each,  and  finely  located  between  the  rail- 
road and  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic.  I  was  now 
in  my  native  'country,  the  ancient  Messapia,  at 
present  the  province  of  Lecce,  amongst  my  Salen- 
tine  people.  The  country  for  miles  and  miles  to 
Brindisi,  and  from  that  place  for  about  fourteen 


248  APULIA. 

miles  further,  is  sparsely  settled  and  is  not  cultiva- 
ted ;  the  soil  is  good,  but  it  wants  the  hand  of  man; 
it  is  kept  for  pasture.  In  Brindisi  I  drank  some 
common  wine  of  the  place,  in  company  with  an 
English  gentleman  returning  from  the  East  Indies, 
and  we  were  convinced  that  this  wine  in  England 
would  pass  for  genuine  port,  having  all  the  quali- 
ties of  that  wine.  In  strength  it  is  superior  to 
sherry,  but  the  color,  taste  and  body,  are  similar 
to  port.  All  this  wild  land  could  be  laid  out  very 
profitably  in  vineyards.v 

At  noon  I  arrived  in  Brindisi,  in  the  land  of 
Otranto,  on  the  Adriatic  sea.  This  is  the  ancient 
Brundusium,  but  now  it  is  a  miserable  place  of 
7,000  inhabitants,  and  has  nothing  of  its  former 
splendor  and  commerce,  except  the  name.  In 
the  12th  century  it  had  60,000  inhabitants,  and 
was  the  terminus  of  the  Appian  and  Trajan 
ways  ;  its  harbor  was  splendid  and  the  finest 
on  the  Adriatic  sea.  From  this  place  the 
Romans  usually  embarked  for  Greece  and  Asia, 
it  being  the  nearest  route  from  Constantinople  to 
Rome  by  the  way  of  the  mountains  of  Macedonia 
and  Albania.  It  is  surrounded  by  the  same  Ro- 
man walls  and  forts.  It  is  the  native  place  of 
Pacuvius,  and  Virgil  died  here.\ 

Brindisi  is  reviving  again.  The  harbor  has  been 
cleaned  and  improved.  There  is  a  line  of  first- 
class  steamers  to  Alexandria  in  Egypt,  which  carry 
the  mails  to  India  by  the  strait  of  Suez  and  the 
Red  Sea.  The  mail  from  the  East  Indies,  via 
Brindisi,  arrives  in  London  thirty-six  hours  in 


MANPURIA.  249 

advance  of  any  other  line.  When  the  tunneling 
of  Mount  Cenis  will  be  completed,  the  time  will 
be  still  further  reduced.  There  are  other  lines  of 
steamers  connected  with  this  place,  and  this  tends 
to  revive  its  commerce.  There  is  still  near  the 
harbor  one  of  the  two  fine  marble  pillars  built  by 
Pompeus,  which  are  said  to  have  supported  the 
balcony  of  his  residence.  On  a  former  visit  I  saw 
an  iron  ring  to  which,  in  former  times,  the  Eoman 
vessels  were  fastened.  The  city  is  dirty  and  ir- 
regular. It  has  some  fine  churches  and  palaces, 
and  there  are  yet  some  monuments  of  Eoman  an- 
tiquity.\ 

We  passed  close  to  Manduria,  whose  inhabitants 
have  been  described  by  Fenelon.  When  Idome- 
neus,  with  his  party,  arrived  at  this  coast,  the 
Mandurians,  with  great  generosity,  left  the  shores 
and  retired  to  the  heights.  Some  of  his  men,  in 
exploring  the  country,  met  with  them  ;  Fenelon, 
describing  their  character,  makes  the  chief  of  the 
Mandurians  speak  thus — Book  X. :  "  We  have 
abandoned  the  pleasant  borders  of  the  sea  that 
you  might  possess  them  ;  and  nothing  remains  for 
us  but  mountains  that  are  almost  inaccessible  ;  it 
is  therefore  but  just  that  you  should  leave  us  the 
peaceable  possession  of  these  mountains.  You 
have  fallen  into  our  hands,  a  wandering,  dispersed 
and  defenceless  party  ;  and  we  could  now  destroy 
you  without  leaving  to  your  companions  a  possi- 
bility of  discovering  your  fate  ;  but  we  will  not 
dip  our  hands  in  the  blood  of  those  who,  though 
strangers,  partake  of  one  common  nature  with 


250  APULIA. 

ourselves.  Go,  then,  in  peace.  Eemember  that 
you  are  indebted  for  your  lives  to  our  humanity, 
and  that  a  people  whom  you  have  stigmatized  with 
the  name  of  savages  and  barbarians,  have  given 
you  this  lesson  of  moderation  and  generosity."/ 

The  Cretan  soldiers  of  Idomeneus,  disdaining  to 
owe  their  lives  to  a  horde  of  savages,  as  they 
called  them,  went  out  in  great  numbers  and  attack- 
ing a  party  of  natives  drove  them  to  the  moun- 
tains. The  Mandurians  sent  two  old  men  to 
Idomeneus,  and  holding  in  one  hand  the  sword, 
and  an  olive  branch  in  the  other,  they  said  :  "  0 
King  !  we  hold  Peace  and  War  !  Choose  either ! 
Peace  has  the  preference  in  our  estimation.  We 
abhor  that  brutality  which  under  the  spurious 
name  of  ambition  and  glory  desolates  the  earth 
and  destroys  mankind.  If  thou  hast  placed  glory 
in  carnage  and  desolation  we  do  not  envy  but  pity 

the  delusion It  will  be  our  glory  to 

continue  just,  humane,  faithful  and  disinterested. 
We  prize  nothing  but  health,  frugality,  freedom. . . 
the  love  of  virtue,  the  fear  of  the  gods,  benevo- 
lence to  our  neighbors,  zeal  for  our  friends,  and 
integrity  to  the  world  ;  moderation  in  prosperity, 
fortitude  in  distress,  courage  to  speak  truth  in 
every  situation,  and  a  just  abhorrence  and  con- 
tempt of  flattery."/ 

This  is  the  character  of  the  people  of  my  native 
country,  the  extreme  south  of  Italy.*  But  in 
war  their  valor  is  great.  Fenelon  continues,  that 

*  See  Galateo.    Descriptio  Urbis  Gallipolis. 


PROVINCE    OF   LECCE.  251 

when  the  Mandurians  were  forced  to  take  up 
arms  they,  joined  by  the  Lucanians,  Apulians, 
Brutians,  the  people  of  Crotona,  Neritum  and 
Brundusium  appeared  before  the  gates  of  Salen- 
tum  with  Philoctetes,  Nestor  and  Pisistratus, 
Idoraeneus  let  Mentor  go  to  meet  them  and  sue 
for  peace .\ 

Before  reaching  the  small  village  of  St.  Peter 
Vernotico,  we  entered  again  a  rich  country  all 
planted  with  vineyards,  olive  trees  and  fruit  of 
every  description  ;  the  olive  trees  are  cultivated 
in  forests,  this  being  the  greatest  product  of  this 
part  of  Italy.  We  passed  the  little  and  elegant 
villages  of  Squinzano  and  Trepuzzi  and  we  soon 
reached  the  fine  city  of  Lecce,  the  capital  of  the 
province  of  the  same  name.\ 

At  the  station  1  found  my  eldest  brother  Ferdi. 
nand,  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  who  had  gone 
thither  the  day  before  to  meet  me.  From  the 
cars  I  looked  with  solicitude  to  see  him,  and  it 
did  not  take  long  to  recognize  him,  although  I  had 
not  been  with  him  for  about  twenty-nine  years. 
I  was  assisted  to  perceive  him  by  observing  his 
anxiety  in  looking  to  the  windows  of  the  cars. 
In  a  minute  I  was  in  the  arms  of  a  loving  and 
loved  brother.  The  voice  could  not  utter  our 
emotions  except  by  sobs  of  the  tongue,  but  an 
abundance  of  tears  flowed  from  the  eyes  of  both. 
He  had  his  carriage  ready  and  we  drove  to  the 
hotel  ;  there  1  saw  Mr.  Nicholas  Massa  my 
former  schoolmate,  but  at  present  a  representa- 
tive at  Florence,  and  many  other  warm  friends.x 


252  APULIA. 

Lecce  is  the  ancient  Locri,  called  afterwards 
Lupia,  Liceum,  Lupion,  etc.  It  was  one  of  the 
most  powerful,  splendid  and  wealthy  cities  of 
Magna  Graecia.  The  inhabitants  of  Locri  were  the 
Epizepliyrian,  Locrians,  a  colony  of  the  Ozolian 
stock,  which  with  the  two  other  branches,  the 
Epicnemidian  and  the  Opuntian  formed  the  Lo- 
crian  nation  and  one  of  the  oldest  Grecian  people 
of  Locris,  a  country  of  middle  Greece.  This  city  is 
not  far  from  the  old  city  tfSalentum,  immortalized 
by  a  description  of  Fenelon.  It  was  built  by 
Idomeneus.  Here  Mentor  and  Telemachus  stopped 
a  considerable  length  of  time  when  they  assisted 
him  in  war  against  the  Locrians,  Daunis,  Neri- 
tum,  Brundusium,  Tarentum,  etc.  Homer,  Horace, 
Yirgil  and  Fenelon  have  rendered  this  land 
immortal  for  ever.  Salentum  must  have  been 
near  to  Lecce  or  perhaps  what  is  now  called 
Soleto,  a  small  but  beautiful  village.  This  city, 
containing  20,000  inhabitants,  is  well  built,  the 
streets  are  spacious  and  clean,  and  the  churches 
and  palaces  on  a  grand  scale.  The  snuff  of  Lecce 
is  famous  and  much  esteemed  not  only  in  Italy 
but  in  every  part  of  the  world  where  it  is  known. 
No  American  tobacco  can  compete  with  it  as 
several  competent  tobacconists  who  tried  it  have 
testified.  Occasionally  it  has  been  imported  into 
this  country,  not  for  sale,  but  as  presents  to 
friends.  The  railroad  has  increased  to  a  consider- 
able extent  the  commerce  of  this  city.\ 

As  the  railroad  has  not  yet  been  completed  to 
Gallipolis  we  started  in  a  private   carriage  at 


GALLIPOLIS.  253 

4  p.  M.  The  distance  is  only  twenty-two  miles. 
We  passed  many  ancient  and  neat  villages  ; 
St.  Cesario,  Galatone,  Nardo,  (the  ancient  Neri- 
turn)  renowned  for  its  learning,  Academies,  etc.  A 
few  miles  from  the  city  we  were  met  by  a  number 
of  carriages  containing  my  other  brother  Felix 
and  family,  the  Chevalier  Balsamo,  Sig'r.  Tafuri, 
a  marquis,  and  other  relatives  and  old  friends 
whose  appearance  enkindled  in  my  breast  the 
liveliest  emotions,  and  whom  I  warmly  embraced. 
How  many  sweet  and  happy  recollections  did 
they  not  awake  in  my  mind !  But  when  from  a 
far  distant  hill,  in  the  intermittent  splendor  of  the 
light-house,  I  discovered  Gallipolis,  my  heart 
throbbed  with  joy.  A  moonless,  calm  and  starry 
night  increased  the  romance  of  the  occasion,  and 
as  in  a  dream  I  saluted  it : 

"  Vi  ravviso,  o  luoghi  ameni: 
In  cui  lieti  i  di  sereni 
Mi  rammento  ch'  io  passai 
Delia  prima  gioventu." 

Cari  luoghi  io  vi  trovai 
Ma  quel  di  non  trovo  piu. 

(I  recognize  you,  0  smiling  places,  where  I  remember  that  joyfully  I 
spent  the  quiet  days  of  my  former  youth.  Dear  places,  I  do  find  you, 
but  those  days  I  find  no  more.)  \ 

We  entered  Gallipolis  at  9  P.  M.,  and  drove  to 
my  brother  Ferdinand's  residence,  where  his 
family,  my  sister  and  family,  and  many  relations 
and  friends  seated  on  the  balconies  awaited 
our  arrival  with  great  anxiety.  My  sister  was 
anxious  to  get  a  glance  of  me  as  I  alighted  from 
the  carriage,  but  not  being  able  on  account  of  the 
16 


254  APULIA. 

multitude,  she  ran  to  meet  me  at  the  head  of  the 
long  flight  of  stairs  on  the  second  story.  Here  a 
ludicrous  comedy  took  place.  She  expected  to 
see  me  in  cassock  and  long  tall  cape  wearing 
silver  or  gold  shoe-buckles,  Roman  collar,  belt 
with  long  tassels  and  three-cornered  hat.  Dressed 
in  the  American  costume  and  wearing  a  duster 
(or  linen  coat),  white  straw  hat  and  a  traveling 
bag  hanging  at  my  side,  alone  I  ran  up-stairs, 
leaving  the  crowd  of  relations  and  friends  in  the 
Palace  court-yard,  and  I  heard  her  voice,  "  Dove 
e  Eugenio  ?  "  ("  where  is  Eugene  ? ")  "  Sta  mon- 
tando  su,  e  la,"  they  said,  ("he  is  coming  up,") 
"Non  il  vedo,"  she  said,  ("I  do  not  see  him.7') 
I  was  before  her,  but  she  taking  no  notice  of  me 
with  great  eagerness  was  looking  for  somebody 
else.  I  saw  her  at  once,  and  folded  her  in  my 
arms.  She  drew  back  her  head  and  gazed  at  me 
with  amazement,  but  soon  recognized  my  voice 
when  I  said,  "  Teresina!" 

The  large  reception  room  was  crowded  with 
relations  and  friends  who  have  longed  for  many 
years  to  see  me.  The  entire  palace  was  crowded 
to  excess.  After  supper  I  found  myself  sur- 
rounded by  a  circle  of  no  less  than  eighteen 
nephews  and  nieces,  two  brothers,  and  one  sister 
and  two  sisters-in-law.  But  what  a  change  I 
found  in  Gallipolis  where  I  was  born  in  1819 ! 
My  dear  parents  Peter  Yetromile  and  Anthonia 
Margiotta  were  dead  !  They  slept  in  peace  in  the 
Church  of  the  Franciscans,  where  a  cold  marble 
slab  covers  the  vault  which  encloses  their  ashes. 


GALLIPOLIS.  255 

An  inscription  and  their  coat  of  arms  pointed  out 
to  me  the  place  of  their  sepulture.  All  my  pro- 
fessors the  Arch-Priest,  De  Pace,  D.D.,  Canon 
Charles  Leopazzi,  D.D.,  Rev.  Joseph  D'Elia,  etc., 
all  dead  !  The  only  professor  whom  I  found  alive 
was  Canon  Sabbato.  They  were  men  of  great 
learning,  and  high  dignitaries  in  the  church,  and 
ornaments  of  the  city  and  country,  but  their  loss 
undoubtedly  has  not  been  replaced,  and  I  fear  it 
will  not  be  for  many  long  years  on  account  of  the 
secular  education  inaugurated  by  the  present 
Italian  system.  The  Italian  Government  (or  mis- 
government)  has  seized  the  funds  appropriated 
by  the  citizens  for  the  support  of  the  Seminary; 
it  has  occupied  the  buildings  and  left  the  youth  at 
the  mercy  of  the  Government  to  give  them  such 
an  education  as  will  be  best  calculated  to  suit  the 
present  state  of  things,  but  unfit  for  ecclesiastical 
students.v 

The  next  day,  and  for  weeks,  I  was  continually 
occupied  in  receiving  visits  from  my  friends,  and 
citizens,  who  came  singly  and  in  a  body ;  some 
from  distant  cities  and  towns.  His  Lordship,  the 
saintly  and  learned  Bishop  Valerius  Laspro,  the 
Capitulum,  and  clergy,  headed  by  the  Vicar-Gener- 
al, and  many  ecclesiastical,  scientific  and  philan- 
thropic institutions,  the  Governor,  the  municipal- 
ity, came  to  visit  me.  The  kindness  and  affection  of 
my  fellow-citizens  and  other  friends,  shall  never  be 
forgotten  by  me  ;  kindness  and  affection  are  char- 
acteristic marks  of  the  inhabitants  of  Gallipolis, 
and  the  whole  of  Messapia  or  province  of  Lecce. 


256  APULIA. 

For  this  reason  the  coat-of-arms  of  Gallipolis, 
is  a  cock  holding  the  inscription  "JFideliter  excubat." 
Before  leaving  the  city  I  made  it  my  duly  to  re- 
turn all  the  visits.x 

Gallipolis  is  a  perfect  island  on  the  Gulf  of 
Tarantum  ;  a  long  stone  bridge,  of  many  arches, 
connects  this  city  with  the  main  land  ;  the  cir- 
cumference is  one  mile,  and  it  stands  high  on  a 
solid  rock  ;  its  massive  walls  rise  many  feet  per- 
pendicularly from  the  sea  ;  it  is  well  fortified  by 
several  forts  around  the  island,  and  a  large,  strong 
citadel  defends  it  on  the  land  side.  The  streets 
are  generally  irregular,  crooked  and  narrow,  but 
all  well  paved  and  clean.  The  Cathedral  is  a 
magnificent  building  in  the  shape  of  a  Latin  cross, 
with  three  aisles  supported  by  Doric  pillars,  and 
it  is  ornamented  with  a  number  of  exquisite  paint- 
ings of  good  masters,  especially  Melanconico.  The 
churches  of  St.  Dominic  and  St.  Francis  d'Assisi 
are  fine,  and  possess  good  paintings.  The  inhab- 
itants are  about  10,000  in  number.x 

The  origin  of  this  city  is  not  known,  but  it  was 
built  many  centuries  before  Rome  was  founded. 
It  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  from  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  city  of  Alezium,  which  was  about  four 
miles  from  Gallipolis.  Alezium  was  founded  by 
Lizius  Idomeneus,  who  had  a  military  post  at 
Baggi,  which  Idomeneus  converted  into  the  city 
called  Alezium.  There  is  still  at  the  present  time 
near  the  village  of  Picciotti,  four  miles  from  Galli- 
polis, a  parish  church  called  St.  Mary  delta  Lizza, 
which  is  a  very  ancient  building,  showing  that  that 


GALLIPOLIS.  257 

locality  was  called  Lizza  ;  another  place  about  a 
mile  from  it  is  called  Raggi  to  this  day  ;  the  name 
may  be  a  corruption  of  the  word  Alezium.\ 

This  part  of  Italy,  la/pygia,  was  settled  long  be- 
fore the  Greek  colonies  from  the  Trojan  war  had 
arrived  in  these  localities.  When  Phalantus,  with 
the  colony  of  the  Parteriians  landed  at  this  place, 
the  country  was  flourishing  ;  Strabo  (Geography 
lib.  F/.)  says  that  lapygia  had  thirteen  cities  but 
in  his  time  except  Tarentum  and  Brundusium,  the 
other  places  were  small  villages.  The  Oscans  oc- 
cupied Messapia  before  the  Greeks.  The  Oscans 
originated  from  the  Ausonians,  called  also 
Aurunci,  Opici  and  Osti,  who  originally  descended 
directly  from  the  dispersion  of  the  descendants  of 
Noah.\ 

During  my  stay  in  Gallipolis  I  was  invited  to 
celebrate  mass  in  several  churches  ;  in  that  of  the 
Dominicans  where  we  own  a  tomb,  in  that  of  St. 
Francis  de  Paula,  at  the  altar  of  St.  Anna,  which, 
with  the  sepulchre  attached  to  it,  belongs  to  our 
family,  and  many  of  my  relations  are  interred  in 
it ;  in  the  churches  of  the  nuns,  etc.  But  my  fa- 
vorite church  was  that  of  the  Franciscans,  at  the 
rich  marble  altar  of  the  Immaculate  Conception, 
because  my  beloved  father,  mother  and  many  oth- 
er dear  relatives  were  buried  under  it,  as  the 
altar  and  tomb  belong  to  my  family.  I  felt  a  great 
satisfaction  in  celebrating  there,  and  offering  an 
immaculate  sacrifice  for  the  repose  of  their  souls. 
There  I  called  to  mind  St.  Monica,  who  begged  to 
be  interred  near  the  altar,  in  order  to  be  remem- 


258  APULIA. 

bered  at  the  celebration  of  mass,  by  her  son,  St. 
Augustine,  and  by  others.  I  felt  happy  to  have 
the  same  opportunity  towards  my  parents  as  that 
great  luminary  of  the  Church  had  towards  his 
dear  and  holy  mother,  St.  Monica,  at  whose  death 
he  cried  with  tender  tears  A 

Gallipolis,  as  well  as  the  other  Salentine  cities, 
received  the  Catholic  faith  from  the  apostle  St. 
Peter,  who  was  in  this  neighborhood  three  times. 
First,  seven  years  after  the  ascension  of  our 
Saviour,  when  returning  from  Antioch,  accom- 
panied by  St.  Mark  and  other  disciples  he  landed 
in  the  Gulf  of  Tarentum  (see  Gio  Giovani,  De  an- 
tiquitate  et  varia  Tarentinorum  fortuna,  lib.  III.) 
St.  Peter  said  mass  at  a  place  near  Gallipolis,  as 
is  asserted  by  many  historians.  (See  Ravenna, 
Memorie  di  Gallipoli,  lib.  1.  cap.  xvi.)  The  sec- 
ond time  was  ten  years  after  the  ascension  of  Our 
Lord.  (See  Lupoli,  Juris  Ecdesiastici  prcelec- 
tiones.  lib.  2.  cap.  xxiv.  Mr.  Foggini,  De  Ro- 
mano D.  Petri  itinere  et  Episcopate.  Dessert.  XIII. 
Ravenna,  Memorie  di  Gallipoli,  ib.)  The  third 
time  it  was  two  years  afterwards  ;  after  the  death 
of  the  Emperor  Claudius,  when  St.  Peter  left 
Judea  altogether  and  went  to  Rome,  where  he  re- 
mained till  his  martyrdom  under  Nero  (Ibidem). 
Card.  Baronius  Ann.  Eccl.  anno  44,  num.  27 
says  :  "  De  certis  locis  ad  quce  Petrus  Romam  ve- 
niens,  divertit,  nobilia  in  his  rematiserunt  antiqui- 
tatis  vestigia,  sed  traditione  potius  quam  scriptura 
flrmata."  ("  There  are  noble  vestiges  of  antiqui- 
ty about  the  different  places  through  which  Peter 


GALLIPOLIS.  259 

passed  in  going  to  Rome,  but  they  are  proved  rath- 
er by  tradition  than  by  writing.")  Many  tradi- 
tions exist  to  this  day  in  the  province  of  Lecce 
where  St.  Peter  went,  and  the  spots  are  marked 
by  several  ancient  churches  consecrated  to  the 
Prince  of  the  Apostles  ;  there  is  the  venerated 
church,  amongst  others,  of  St.  Peter  DdSamari, 
(Samaritanus.)\ 

The  Bishopric  of  Gallipolis  is  very  ancient,  and 
no  memory  exists  of  when  and  by  whom  it  was 
instituted.  (See  Ughelli,  Italia  sacra,  torn  IX.) 
It  existed  long  before  the  time  of  St.  Gregory  the 
Great,  as  the  letters  of  that  Saint  to  the  bishop  of 
Gallipolis  testify.  It  is  believed  with  good  rea- 
son that  St.  Pancras,  a  companion  of  St.  Peter,  by 
name  Pancras,  was  the  first  bishop  of  Gallipolis. 
This  proves,  also,  that  Catholics  existed  in  this: 
city  at  that  time,  when  a  bishop  was  considered 
necessary  to  be  sent  to  the  place.\ 

In  an  old  church  dedicated  to  the  Prince  of  the 
Apostles,  in  a  village  near  Gallipolis,  there  is  a 
very  ancient  custom  on  the  festival  of  this  Apos- 
tle, to  expose  the  Blessed  Sacrament,  and  put  it 
into  the  hands  of  the  statue  of  St.  Peter.  A  ser- 
mon is  then  delivered  to  the  people,  who,  in  large 
crowds  assemble  from  the  surrounding  towns,  even 
from  distant  cities.  No  tradition  exists  of  the 
origin  of  this  very  ancient  ceremony,  recorded 
and  respected  by  the  bishops  in  the  visitation  of 
the  Diocese.  It  is  stated  to  have  been  originated 
by  the  primitive  Christians,  to  represent  the  posi- 
tion of  the  Apostle  St.  Peter  and  his  successors, 


260  APULIA. 

to  hold  on  earth  the  place  of  our  Saviour,  whose 
Vicar  he  is  to  the  end  of  the  world  ;  and  that  to 
listen  to  Peter  is  to  listen  to  Christ,  and  to  de- 
spise Peter  is  to  despise  Christ,  and  that  the 
Church  of  Christ  and  its  infallibility  is  built  upon 
St.  Peter  and  his  successors,  who  are  the  Rock 
supporting  it.\ 

G-allipolis  and  the  entire  Apulia  take  great 
pride,  and,  with  good  reason,  in  the  fact  that, 
having  once  received  the  true  faith  from  St.  Peter, 
they  have  kept  it  faithfully  to  this  day,  and  the 
whole  world  would  not  be  able  to  rob  the  people 
of  this  precious  gift — their  religion.  They  would 
give  up  every  thing,  even  their  lives — but,  never 
the  Catholic  faith.  It  being  a  Greek  city,  the 
practice  of  religion  was,  formerly,  according  to 
the  Greek  rite.  On  account  of  the  commerce  with 
the  West,  the  Latins  increased  considerably  in  the 
middle  ages.  Some  clergymen  of  the  Latin  Rite 
were  provided  for  the  Latin  people  ;  yet,  the  Of- 
fice was  recited  every  day  in  the  Cathedral  in 
Greek.  Matins  and  Mass  were  sung,  daily,  in  the 
same  language  and  ritual.  The  number  of  the 
Latin  clergymen  and  people  increasing,  it  was 
found  necessary  to  elect  a  bishop,  alternately 
Greek  and  Latin.  The  titular  of  the  Cathedral 
was  changed  from  that  of  St.  John  Chrysostom 
to  that  of  St.  Agatha.  The  Office  was  also  recited 
alternately,  in  Greek  and  Latin,  till  the  sixteenth 
century,  when  the  Greek  ritual  was  entirely  abol- 
ished ;  yet,  Greek  customs  and  practices  remain 
to  this  davA 


GALLIPOLIS.  261 

High  Mass  is  sung,  daily  ;  and  sometimes,  three 
and  four  Masses  on  the  same  morning,  and  the 
Greek  language  is  spoken  yet  in  the  country. 
Nearly  all  the  citizens  belong  to  some  confrater- 
nity divided  into  classes,  according  to  their  trade 
and  occupation  ;  for  instance,  the  nobles,  mer- 
chants, fishermen,  carpenters,  etc.  ;  and  each  has 
a  rector  who,  however,  is  not  a  parish  priest. 
Each  of  these  confraternities  has  a  particular 
church,  some  of  which  are  beautiful.  Thither 
they  repair  every  Sunday  or  oftener  and  sing  the 
Office  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  Mass.  The  mem- 
bers of  the  Confraternity  of  the  Souls  in  Purga- 
tory go,  in  turn,  every  Monday  round  the  city  to 
collect  alms  to  celebrate  Masses  for  the  souls  in 
general  in  purgatory.  This  confraternity  is  asso- 
ciated with  that  of  the  Buona  Morte  in  Kome 
(Bona  Mors).  The  Confraternity  of  Mary  of 
Mercy,  composed  mostly  of  shoemakers,  obligate 
themselves  to  accompany  the  dead  of  the  poor  to 
the  grave.  '  They  must  go  in  solemn  procession, 
dressed  in  sackcloth,  hood  and  monzetta,  headed 
by  the  cross,  followed  by  the  parish  priest,  with 
lighted  torches,  slowly  and  with  devotion,  chant- 
ing the  Miserere  and  the  De  Profundis.  The  Con- 
fraternity of  the  Facchini  (or,  what  travelers  call 
Lazzaroni^)  have  two  churches — one  in  the  city, 
which  is  one  of  the  finest  in  it,  and  kept  extreme- 
ly clean.  It  is  considered  to  be  the  richest  of  all 
the  confraternities,  even  of  that  of  the  nobles, 
and  they  have  a  small  church  outside  of  the  city. 
The  former  is  dedicated  to  the  Purity  of  the 


262  APULIA. 

Blessed  Virgin  ;  the  latter  to  St.  Lazarus,  from 
whom  they  take  the  name  of  Lazzaroni.  This 
being  the  most  numerous,  is  provided  with  a  rec- 
tor and  an  assistant,  to  whom  they  pay  a  large  sal- 
ary. The  rector  of  this  confraternity  is  always  one 
of  the  canon  dignitaries  of  the  Cathedral.  In  case 
of  distress,  sickness,  and  death,  they  are  provided 
for  by  the  confraternity  ;  but  they  seldom  stand 
in  need  of  it.  They  allow  nobody  to  become  a 
member  of  their  confraternity  unless  he  belongs 
to  their  class.  Some  of  the  principal  citizens  are 
admitted  only  as  honorary  members.  Yet,  the 
churches  are  public  and  open  to  all.  Women  are 
allowed  at  Mass,  Instructions,  Complin,  and  Bene- 
diction. It  would  be  surprising  and  out  of  my 
province  to  relate  the  works  of  piety,  devotion, 
and  penance,  performed  by  these  confraternities. 
During  Lent  they  practice  even  discipline.\ 

They  have  many  ancient  customs  ;  for  instance, 
on  Ascension  Day,  all  the  confraternities,  regu- 
lars, and  clergy  form  one  procession,  and  carry  the 
Blessed  Sacrament  around  the  walls  of  the  city, 
singing  psalms  and  hymns.  This  practice  comes 
from  the  procession  performed  by  the  Christians 
of  Jerusalem  upon  the  Mountain  of  Ascension 
celebrated  on  that  day.  On  the  day  of  Pentecost, 
when  the  celebrant  at  High  Mass  intones  the 
"  Veni  Sancte  Spiritus,"  a  pigeon  is  let  fly  from 
the  Epistle-corner  of  the  altar  in  commemoration 
of  the  dove,  in  whose  form  the  Holy  Ghost  vouch- 
safed to  make  his  appearance  on  the  day  of  Pen- 
tecost. Every  evening  the  people  assemble  at 


GALLIPOLIS.  263 

the  Cathedral  and  recite  the  night  prayers  with 
the  parish  priest  and,  afterwards,  they  receive  the 
Benediction  of  the  Blessed  Sacrament ;  but,  only 
with  the  ciborium,  and  not  with  the  Ostensorium. 
The  devotion  to  the  Blessed  Yirgin  is  great. 
From  the  first  centuries,  they  honored  her  under 
the  title  of  Immaculate  Conception  ;  and  they 
kept,  and  do  still  keep,  the  vigil  of  that  festival 
with  a  strict  fast  on  bread  and  water,  and  that 
only  once  in  the  day.  They  build  no  fires  in  the 
kitchen  on  that  day.  I  finish  speaking  of  Galli- 
polis  by  remarking  that,  to  my  recollection,  Lent 
is  kept  so  strict  that,  not  only  no  flesh  meat  is  al- 
lowed, but  not  even  what  comes  from  it — milk, 
butter,  eggs,  etc. — till  Easter. \ 

During  my  stay  at  Gallipolis,  I  made  several 
excursions  into  the  country.  One  morning  my 
self,  the  family  of  my  brother  Ferdinando  and 
that  of  my  sister,  went  to  spend  the  day  at  the 
Villa  Capani,  belonging  to  my  sister,  where  she 
rusticated  in  the  spring  and  autumn.  About  mid- 
way in  our  journey,  one  of  the  carriages  became 
half  disabled  on  account  of  the  spring  becoming 
loose.  It  was  ordered  back,  notwithstanding  the 
assurance  of  the  driver  that  there  was  no  danger. 
The  party  accommodated  themselves  in  the  other 
carriage  in  the  best  manner  that  they  could,  and 
in  a  wagon  which  happened  to  pass,  which  kindly 
offered  to  take  some  of  them.  I  and  my  nephew 
preferred  walking ;  the  weather  being  beautiful, 
and  the  road  excellent./ 

I  took  this  occasion  to  visit  the  parochial  church 


264  APULIA. 

of  St.  Maria  della  Lizza,  a  fine  stone  building  con- 
taining some  excellent  paintings.  That  of  the 
Assumption  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mary,  to  whom 
the  church  is  dedicated,  is  magnificent — and  also 
that  of  St.  Pancras,  who  is  believed  to  have  been 
the  first  bishop  of  Gallipolis.  There  is  a  painting 
of  St.  Charles  Borroraeo  represented  in  the  act  of 
preaching  to  the  inhabitants  of  Galiipolis.  In  the 
thirteenth  century,  this  church  was  occupied  as  a 
Cathedral  for  over  one  hundred  years  ;  when  Gal- 
lipolis was  destroyed  by  Charles  D'Angi6,  the 
same  tyrant  who  caused  the  revolution  in  Sicily 
known  as  the  famous  Sicilian  Vespers.  My  brother 
had  sent  another  carriage  after  me,  but  I  preferred 
to  walk  as  the  villa  was  not  far  off ;  the  whole  dis- 
tance from  Gallipolis  being  only  six  miles.  In  my 
boyhood,  I  had  been  several  times  to  this  villa. 
It  is  a  large  stone  building  ;  the  second  story 
is  surrounded  by  a  balcony,  but  it  requires 
some  repairs.  I  saw  the  fine  vineyards,  whose 
wines  are  considered  the  best  in  the  coun- 
try, and  I  found  them  superior  to  the  port  wine. 
There  are  extensive  olive  plantations,  trees  of  a 
great  variety  of  fruits,  besides  lemon,  orange,  and 
pomegranate  trees.  The  flower-gardens  and  veg- 
etable-gardens were  very  luxuriant.  In  the  after- 
noon, we  were  visited  by  Rev.  N.  N.  from  Tuglie, 
and  other  friends.  On  our  return,  we  visited  sev- 
eral relations  and  friends  residing  in  the  village. 
We  stopped  at  the  villa  of  Hon.  Vincent  Tafuri, 
a  judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  well  known  for 
his  deep  learning.  He  belongs  to  one  of  the  prin- 


GALLIPOLIS.  265 

cipal  and  noble  families  of  Grallipolis.  I  take  this 
occcasion  to  thank  him  for  presenting  me  with  a 
copy  of  his  valuable  work — u  Delia  Nobilta,  delle 
sue  Leggi  e  de  suoi  Imtituti  nel  gia  Reame  delle 
Sicilie  "— (u  Of  the  Nobility,  its  Laws  and  its  In- 
stitutions, in  the  Before- Existing  Kingdom  of  Re- 
Sicilies  ").  He  showed  to  us  some  ancient  Etru- 
vases  found  on  his  farm.  / 

On  another  day,  in  company  with  my  eldest 
brother,  Ferdinando,  and  my  sister,  I  drove  to  the 
villa  of  my  youngest  brother,  Felix,  who  with  his 
family,  were  spending  there  some  months  of  the 
autumn  season.  This  beautiful  villa  is  located  in 
the  best  part  of  the  village  of  St.  Nicholas.  It  is 
a  large  two  story  building,  with  vineyards,  olive 
plantations,  orchards  of  every  kind  of  fruit,  and 
an  enclosed  garden  of  selected  lemon  and  orange 
trees.  I  found  the  fruits  very  luscious,  especially 
the  pomegranates  and  winter  figs.  I  made  other 
excursions  to  the  villas  of  my  eldest  brother,  and 
those  of  some  of  my  friends.  / 

One  day,  standing  on  the  balcony  of  my  broth- 
er Ferdinando's  palace,  I  was  amused,  and  laugh- 
ed at  two  carabinieri,  (policemen,)  who  were  rais- 
ing a  fuss  and  making  a  great  ado  about  three  don- 
keys and  wagons  which  had  got  entangled  in  the 
street  just  under  the  balcony.  One  donkey  was 
standing  while  the  vetturino  was  loading  the  wag- 
on, another  was  coming  from  an  opposite  direc- 
tion, while  the  third  was  crossing  the  street  at 
right  angles.  The  street  was  narrow,  and  the  ca- 
rabinieri threatened  the  vetturino  who  was  load- 


266  APULIA. 

ing  the  wagon ;  the  latter  vexed  at  the  officers, 
repeatedly  cursed  the  earthquake,  ll  mannaggia 
quiddu  terramotu"  I  had  seen  in  New  York, 
London,  Paris,  etc.,  hundreds  of  horses,  carriages 
and  omnibuses  obstructed  and  stopped,  and  the 
police  setting  all  right  without  noise,  ado  or  ex- 
citement, while  here  two  carabinieri  made  so  much 
fuss  about  three  donkeys !  I  laughed  heartily. 
The  carabinieri  being  strangers,  I  believe  from 
Piedmont,  did  not  comprehend  the  force  and  mean- 
ing of  the  vetturino  cursing  the  earthquake.  He 
meant  the  Italian  government,  and  by  cursing  the 
earthquake  he  wished  an  earthquake  to  upset  Vic- 
tor Emmanuel's  ministry  and  the  present  condi- 
tion of  Italian  affairs,  and  restore  the  former  gov- 
ernment, and  the  old  state  of  things,  as  they  exist- 
ed in  1848.  He  could  not  express  himself  openly 
because  they  would  have  arrested  him  ;  hence  he 
cursed  the  earthquake — the  moral  earthquake,  the 
revolution,  for  its  delaying  so  long  in  coming.\ 

Having  stopped  in  Gallipolis  a  sufficient  length 
of  time  among  my  relatives  and  friends,  I  made 
preparations  to  return  to  Naples  and  go  to  Rome, 
as  the  cholera  had  ceased.  At  this  time  Garibaldi 
had  commenced  to  invade  the  Roman  territory  ; 
but  this  did  not  affect  me.  My  brother  Ferdinando 
and  my  sister  offered  to  accompany  me  in  this 
short  trip.  On  the  25th  of  October,  at  5  A.  M.,  in 
a  private  carriage,  we  set  out  for  Lecce,  where  we 
calculated  the  same  evening  to  take  the  cars  for 
Bovino,  and  there  to  connect  with  the  stage  for 
Naples.  We  arrived  at  Lecce  in  season,  and 


LECCE.  267 

telegraphed  to  Bo  vino  in  order  to  secure  three 
places  in  the  stage.  By  a  telegraphic  dispatch 
we  were  notified  that  all  the  places  in  the  stage 
were  engaged,  hence  we  secured  three  seats  in 
the  train  for  next  day.  We  employed  our  time 
in  visiting  the  city.  / 

After  supper  we  went  to  the  large  square  where 
we  heard  a  drum  and  fife.  The  Italian  flag  and 
Garibaldi's  likeness  were  carried  in  procession  by 
about  two  hundred  people,  mostly  boys,  shouting 
"  Viva  Garibaldi,  Roma  capitate,  viva  E  Italia." 
"We  were  surprised  at  it,  not  knowing  what  was 
the  matter,  and  the  people  were  inquiring  "  Che 
cosael?"  ("what  is  the  matter?'7)  Some  said  that 
it  was  the  celebration  of  the  festival  of  some  saint, 
others  that  it  was  the  feast  of  St.  Oronzo,  (the 
patron  saint  of  Lecce).  The  people  took  no  share 
in  that  humbuggery,  and  kept  aloof  from  it.  Af- 
ter several  inquiries  we  were  informed  that  Gari- 
baldi, with  his  associates,  were  marching  upon 
Borne,  and  that  the  Italian  government  had  sent 
secret  instructions  to  every  city  of  Italy  to  excite 
the  Italian  people,  and  make  such  demonstrations 
in  order  to  show  that  it  was  the  desire  of  the  peo- 
ple to  march  on  Rome.  / 

To  judge  from  what  I  witnessed  with  my  own 
eyes,  the  people  not  only  had  nothing  to  do  with 
the  matter,  but,  by  their  conduct,  disapproved 
and  condemned  such  proceedings  ;  nay,  I  heard 
learned  Italian  patriots,  crazy  for  the  union  of 
Italy  and  exaggerating  the'gr eat  progress  and  pros- 
perity of  Italy  at  the  present  time,  declare  .to 


268  APULIA. 

me  that  they  could  not  yet  see  the  necessity  of 
having  Rome  for  the  capital.  The  next  day  I 
read  in  the  newspapers  that  a  grand  demonstra- 
tion was  held  in  Lecce  in  favor  of  marching  on 
Rome,  and  having  that  city  for  the  capital  .... 
and  that  4,000  persons  had  marched  in  the  pro- 
cession. The  same  day  we  learned  that  those  two 
hundred  people  had  been  paid  to  march  in  proces- 
sion, and  shout,  "  Viva  Garibaldi,  Roma  capitale" 
etc.\ 

We  spent  the  day  in  visiting  the  churches,  and 
city.  At  the  Cathedral,  which  is  a  fine  and 
splendid  ancient  structure,  we  saw  the  body  of  St. 
Cataldo,  the  patron  saint  of  the  city,  and  the  fine 
life-size  statue  of  the  same  in  solid  silver.  We 
saw  also  the  statue  of  St.  Oronzo  in  solid  silver. 
In  Italy  it  is  common  to  have  the  statues  of  the 
patron  saints  cast  in  solid  silver  of  the  life- 
size,  or  at  least  their  busts.  Every  city,  town  and 
village  has  got  one  or  more.  Gallipoiis  possesses 
the  statues  of  St.  Agatha  and  St.  Sebastian,  both 
busts  of  solid  silver,  they  being  the  patron  saints 
of  the  city.  The  churches  of  St.  Chiara  and  St. 
Irene  are  very  fine.\ 

In  the  afternoon  we  left  the  hotel  in  the  midst 
of  a  pouring  rain,  which  penetrated  even  the  car- 
riage, and  arrived  at  the  station  at  5  P.  M.  ;  the 
whistle  gave  the  signal,  and  we  were  off  for  Na- 
ples.\ 

About  half-past  eleven,  P.M.,  we  arrived  at  Fog- 
gia  ;  there  we  changed  cars,  and  reached  Bovino 
at  half-past  two,  A.  M.  Thence  by  a  very  iucon- 


BOUNDARIES    OF   THE   CITY    OF   NAPLES.        269 

venient  diligence  belonging  to  the  same  line,  we 
continued  our  journey  to  Naples.  The  night  was 
very  dark,  and  the  diligence  had  no  light,  while 
we  were  crossing  the  Apennines,  and  the  stage 
was  very  near  tumbling  down  a  steep  mountain  in 
making  room  for  another  coach  to  pass  by.  After 
Ariano  we  took  a  route  for  Naples  different  from 
that  by  which  I  had  corne  ;  and  crossing  some 
steep  passes,  the  driver  was  obliged  to  use  oxen. 
Nothing  happened  of  any  consequence  except  that 
at  Monteforte  we  were  forced  to  make  a  long  round, 
lengthening  the  road  three  miles,  because  the 
Mayor  of  that  village  would  not  allow  the  dili- 
gence to  pass  by  the  short  road  which  belonged  to 
the  village,  and  not  to  the  government,  which  had 
refused  to  pay  for  the  use  of  it.  The  next  even- 
ing was  very  dark,  and  when  the  horses  were 
changed  the  vetturino  refused  to  drive  unless  the 
diligence  was  furnished  with  lights,  as  required  by 
law.\ 

The  conductor  was  obliged  to  light  the  lantern, 
so  the  driver  went  on  ;  but  as  there  was  very  lit- 
tle oil  in  it  the  light  soon  went  out,  and  we  all  re- 
mained in  darkness.  The  vetturino,  however, 
went  on  in  bad  humor,  but  without  saying  any- 
thing.\ 

Arrived  at  the  boundaries  of  the  city  of  Na- 
ples, where  a  tax  has  to  be  paid  on  wines,  liquors, 
meats,  cheese,  sweet-meats,  etc.,  here  the  conduc- 
tor asked  the  passengers  whether  they  had  in  their 
possession  anything  liable  to  be  taxed.  All  said 
11  No,  "except  two  students  who  had  some  preserves 
17 


270  APULIA. 

and  sweet-meats  to  use  at  the  college  where  they 
were  going.  The  Custom-house  officers  presented 
themselves,  and  the  conductor  declared  that  there 
was  nothing  in  the  diligence  subject  to  taxation  ex- 
cept what  I  have  mentioned.  They  asked  about  the 
quantity  and  quality,  and  not  feeling  satisfied,  these 
articles  were  carried  to  the  office  for  inspection. 
While  there  we  heard  some  sharp  quarreling  in 
the  office  about  these  preserves  and  sweet-meats, 
between  their  owners,  the  conductor,  and  the  of- 
ficers, who  had  commenced  to  doubt  whether  there 
was  anything  else  in  the  diligence  subject  to  tax- 
ation. The  conductor  lost  patience,  and  protest- 
ed that  since  his  word  was  called  in  question,  in 
future  he  would  no  longer  report  about  articles 
contained  in  the  diligence.  He  said  that  it  was 
not  his  duty  to  report  it,  but  it  belonged  to  the 
passengers  ;  the  officers  might  satisfy  themselves 
by  questioning  the  passengers.  Here  was  a  puz- 
zle for  the  officers.  The  conductor  was  asked 
again  by  the  officers,  whether  there  was  any  thing 
in  the  trunks  or  valises  liable  to  be  taxed,  and  he 
answered — "  I  do  not  know.  There  maybe — ask 
them.'7  We  being  asked,  answered,  "  No !"  The 
officers  questioned  us  whether  we  had  any  article 
subject  to  taxation.  We  replied,  "  No."  A  pause 
folio  wed.\ 

When  there  are  angry  clouds  in  the  sky  and  a 
dead  calm  is  observed,  it  is  always  a  sign  of  an 
approaching  storm.  Such  was  the  case  in  our  po- 
sition ;  this  dead  silence  of  the  officers,  conductor 
of  the  diligence,  and  passengers,  was  the  sign  of 


CUSTOM-HOUSE   OFFICERS.  271 

a  severe  storm.  We  prepared  ourselves  for  it. 
They  were  all  as  stiff  as  if  they  had  been  exposed  to 
a  hard  frosty  night.  Nobody  wanted  to  open  the 
battle  ;  but  the  officers  were  obliged  to  cave  in. 
They  were  vexed,  and  again  questioned  the  con- 
ductor who  gave  no  answer.  The  officers  threaten- 
ed to  unload  the  diligence  and  search  every  trunk, 
valise,  etc.  The  conductor  said,  -'You  can  do  it 
if  you  have  a  mind  ;"  but  as  it  was  to  be  done  by 
the  officers  and  not  by  the  conductor  of  the  dili- 
gence, and  it  was  to  be  a  rather  laborious  task, 
it  being  a  very  dark  night,  the  officers  did  not  feel 
disposed  to  do  this  hard  work  ;  they  got  to  quar- 
reling with  the  conductor,  who  had  calmly  taken 
a  seat  on  the  steps  of  the  office,  and  bade  the  of- 
ficers unload  the  diligence,  protesting  that  he 
would  never,  in  future,  declare  anything  to  them.  / 

While  this  comedy  was  going  on  outside  of  the 
office,  inside  there  was  another  sharp  quarrel  be- 
tween the  two  passengers  and  the  other  officers 
about  the  sweet-meats  and  preserves.  They  had 
already  fixed  the  price  they  might  be  worth,  but 
the  passengers  had  no  small  coin,  and  the  officers 
refused  to  change  large  bills.  We  had  lost  over 
one  hour  without  coming  to  any  conclusion.  It 
was  10  P.  M.,  and  there  was  no  appearance  of  any 
solution  of  the  difficulty.  After  the  hour  had  ex- 
pired, the  conductor  and  driver  determined  to 
proceed  on  their  way.  They  called  the  passengers 
to  take  their  seats.  The  two  passengers  were  yet 
in  the  office,  and  they,  with  their  sweet-meats  and 
preserves,  were  left  there,  and  the  other  officers 


272  APULIA. 

remained  disputing  and  quarreling,  and  the  con- 
ductor drove  on  to  Naples  where  we  arrived  about 
half-past  10  P.  M.,  and  reported  everything  to  the 
office.  I  must  do  them  the  justice  to  say  that,  in 
all  this  affair  there  was  no  cursing  'and  swearing, 
no  injurious  or  offensive  words  uttered  against 
anybody.\ 

We  took  a  carriage  and  drove  to  the  Hotel  de 
Geneve.  Being  Friday,  they  offered  meat  to  us 
for  supper,  which  we  refused  to  take,  and  reproach- 
ed the  host  for  presenting  it  to  us.  He  said  that 
there  was  nothing  else  ;  but  when  he  saw  me  de- 
termined to  apply  to  another  hotel,  and  I  did  pro- 
cure fish  from  another  place,  on  returning  to  the 
hotel  I  found  that  they  had  already  procured  fish 
for  my  brother  and  sister.  The  wine  was  half 
water,  and  we  refused  to  use  it,  but  we  procured 
an  excellent  quality  of  wine  from  elsewhere.\ 

Next  morning  my  uncle,  D.  Luigi  Vetromile  and 
Salvadore,  my  nephew,  came  from  Giugliano  with 
a  carriage  to  take  us  to  their  residence.  My  broth- 
er, with  Salvadore,  went  to  the  Church  of  the  An- 
.nunciata  to  look  after  the  patrician  tomb  of  Mar- 
giotta,  belonging  to  our  family,  and  they  succeed- 
ed in  finding  it.\ 

We  drove  to  Giugliano  where  we  arrived  about 
noon.  Next  day,  Saturday,  26th,  we  rested,  and 
wrote  letters  to  Gallipolis  and  to  America.  Sun- 
day the  27th,  I  said  Mass  at  the  same  church,  and 
as  the  clergyman  who  was  to  celebrate  the  last 
Mass  after  High  Mass  was  absent,  I  was  requested 
to  say  it,  and  I  did  so.  In  the  afternoon  we  visit- 


NAPLES.  273 

ed  the  town.  Next  day,  the  festival  of  St.  Simon 
and  St.  Jude,  I  said  Mass  early  with  the  intention 
of  going  to  Naples,  but  as  it  was  raining  very  hard 
we  remained  at  home.  Tuesday,  29th,  I,  my  sis- 
ter, brother,  and  Donna  Marianna,  my  uncle's 
wife,  and  my  nephew,  Salvadore,  went  to  Naples 
to  make  some  purchases,  and  view  the  city./s 


CHAPTER  XL 

NAPLES. 

NAPLES MANNERS  OF   THE  NEAPOLITANS — LAZZARONI ST.    FRANCIS  DE  PAULA 

THE    GESU — ST.     CHIARA MIRACLE     OF  THE   LIQUEFACTION    OF    THE    BLOOD  OF 

ST.    JANUAR1US — PORTICI POMPEII — SALERNO P^ESTUM  LA    CAVA — HER- 

CULANEUM RESINA — ROYAL  PALACE  AT  NAPLES — CATACOMBS CATHEDRAL 

CAMPO  SANTO — ALL  SOULS'  DAY VESUVIUS SAILING  FOR   CIV1TA    VECCHIA 

ENTRANCE  TO  ROME. 

\  NATURE  and  art  have  combined  to  make  Na- 
ples one  of  the  most  handsome  cities  of  the  world. 
It  was  once  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  the  Two 
Sicilies  in  the  Terra  di  Lavoro,  and  it  is  the  larg- 
est and  most  important  city  in  Italy.  It  contains 
a  population  of  half  a  million  of  inhabitants,  ex- 
clusive of  foreigners,  of  whom  there  are  hundreds 
of  thousands.  Originally  it  was  a  Greek  city, 
founded  by  the  people  of  Oumce,  a  colony  from 
Greece  ;  hence  it  was  called  Neapolis  or  new  city. 
It  was  formerly  called  Parihenopes  because  its  site 
contained  the  tomb  of  Parihenope,  one  of  the 
Sirens.  Their  language  was  the  Greek,  and  the 
church  belonged  to  the  Greek  rite.  The  church 
of  St.  Restituta  was  the  Greek  Cathedral,  and  the 
offices  are  even  now  celebrated  in  Greek,  and  it  is 
attended  by  a  large  Greek  congregation.  It  con- 


THE   INHABITANTS.  275 

tains  a  fine  picture  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mary  in 
Byzantine  costume  called  Madonna  del  Principle, 
being  the  first  picture  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  pub- 
licly venerated  in  Naples.  The  church  occupies 
the  site  of  the  Temple  of  Apollo.x 

As  we  before  stated,  nature  and  art  have  rival- 
ed each  other  to  render  Naples  one  of  the  best 
cities  in  the  world,  and  the  third  in  Europe  for 
situation,  population  and  wealth,  as  all  travelers  ac- 
knowledge. It  is  situated  in  an  amphitheatre,  at  the 
margin  of  a  magnificent  bay  of  the  Phlegrean  fields, 
which  extends  from  the  Punta  delta  Campanella 
to  Capo  Miseno,  the  former  terminated  by  the  is- 
land of  Capri,  and  the  latter  ornamented  by  the 
islands  of  Ischia  and  Procida.  These  islands  rise 
boldly  to  form  a  majestic  outline  of  the  superb 
bay.  Watched  and  threatened  by  Vesuvius, 
blessed  with  a  balmy,  mild  and  salubrious  air, 
surrounded  by  eminently  rich  fields,  decked 
with  grains,  and  vines  which  wind  picturesquely 
around  elms ;  studded  with  charming  villas, 
casinos,  villages,  and  gardens  of  every  variety  of 
fruits,  verdure,  and  flowers  ;  gazing  in  the  azure 
mirror  of  the  sea,  whose  transparent  waters  are 
stored  with  every  kind  of  delicious  fish  ;  environ- 
ed by  numerous  classic  antiquities,  which,  at  every 
step  proclaim  her  nobility,  Naples  makes  the  pa- 
triotic Neapolitans  exclaim  with  justice  "  Vedi 
Napoli  e  poi  mori!"  ("  See  Naplesand  then  die.") 
Although  its  magnificent  palaces  and  public  build- 
ings, on  account  of  their  redundancy  of  ornaments, 
do  not  approach  the  architecture  of  Rome,  Venice 


276  NAPLES. 

and  Genoa,  yet  their  extensive  terraces,  taking 
the  place  of  roofs,  which  are  converted  into 
spacious  promenades,  ornamented  with  flowers, 
shrubs,  and  trees,  produce  a  charming  effect,  very 
pleasing  to  the  eye.  The  streets  are  generally  nar- 
row, yet  no  city  in  the  world  can  equal  the  streets 
of  Toledo  and  Chiaja  ;  the  former  is  straight  and 
wide,  and  presents  the  appearance  of  a  perpetual 
fair  ;  the  latter,  an  enchanting  promenade,  flank- 
ed by  the  villa  Heale,  which  is  a  public  garden 
extending  along  the  margin  of  the  bay,  and  taste- 
fully and  richly  ornamented  with  trees,  flowers, 
shrubbery,  parterres,  fountains,  temples  and  stat- 
ues, amongst  which  is  the  famous  Toro  Farnese\ 

There  are  three  harbors  :  the  Porto  Piccolo,  a 
relic  of  the  ancient  Palacopolis  ;  the  Porto  Grande, 
large,  safe  and  crowded  with  vessels  from  every 
nation  ;  and  the  Porto  Militare  for  the  Navy. 
The  elegant  quay  or  mole,  is  always  full  of  men 
attending  to  their  business,  or  idly  assembled 
around  the  booth  of  bpufoinetto,  or  a  minstrel,  or 
listening  to  some  of  the  Quattro  del  Molo  (the 
Four  of  the  Mole)  who  declaim  and  sing  the  ad- 
ventures of  Rinaldo  ;  and  their  declamations  are 
accompanied  by  appropriate  gestures,  shedding 
tears,  uttering  sobs,  and  other  expressions.  The 
Neapolitan  lower  classes,  especially  the  Lazzaroni, 
feel  great  sympathy  with  the  adventures  of  Ei- 
naldo.  I  have  seen  them  so  attentive,  listening 
with  profound  interest,  their  eyes  sparkling,  and 
shedding  tears  when  the  improvisatore  cries. 
They  manifest  disdain  and  revenge  at  the  persecu- 


MANNERS   OF  THE   INHABITANTS.  277 

lions  of  Rinaldo  ;  and  woe  to  the  man  who  would 
laugh  or  show  signs  of  incredulity  in  the  presence 
of  the  crowd  !  they  would  chastise  him  severely./ 
Naples  is  the  gayest  and  most  luxurious  city 
in  Europe,  even  excelling  Paris  ;  and  its  inhabi- 
tants the  merriest  of  all  men.  The  windows  and 
balconies  are  ornamented  with  flowers,  and  filled 
with  young  men  and  girls.  This  is  the  reason 
why  strangers  slander  the  city,  saying  that  the 
ladies  are  proud  and  immoral.  If  strangers  were 
better  acquainted  with  Neapolitan  society  they 
would  speak  differently.  It  is  not  pride,  but 
modesty,  that  keeps  the  ladies  at  home  ;  and 
when  out,  they  are  always  accompanied  by 
proper  company  ;  you  never  see  them  running 
from  street  to  street  alone.  They  take  their 
promenades  on  the  top  of  their  palaces,  and  in 
the  afternoon  they  ride  in  the  Chiaja  or  other 
principal  public  walks.  Neapolitan  ladies  and 
matrons  are  seen  continually  visiting  the  hospitals, 
poor  houses,  and  like  places,  not  distributing 
tracts  or  Bibles  but  visiting  the  sick  and  reliev- 
ing their  wants.  If  they  stand  at  windows  and 
balconies  it  is  not  for  evil  purposes  ;  but  in  South- 
ern countries  they  cannot  stay  near  a  stove,  nor 
yet  be  contined  in  a  twelve  feet  square  room, 
thrusting  their  head  from  a  three  by  two  feet 
opening  called  a  window.  They  require  fresh  air 
and  plenty  of  it ;  even  a  large  window  does  not 
satisfy  them  ;  ih^y  must  have  balconies  spacious 
enough  to  put  ch&rs,  sofas,  flower  vases,  etc.  It 
is  true  they  are  fond  of  seeing  and  being  seen, 


278  NAPLES. 

but  no  harm  is  attached  to  it.  If  there  were  any 
harm  they  would  avoid  being  seen.  All  the  Nea- 
politans are  fond  of  amusements  and  they  must 
have  them.  They  are  passionately  fond  of  music 
and  they  like  theatres,  which  in  Naples  are 
numerous  and  well  conducted.  The  Theatre  of 
San  Carlo  is  the  largest  and  best  in  the  world  ; 
but  they  have  no  inclination  for  grog-shops  nor 
gambling.  This  city  is  all  bustle  and  activity  by 
day  and  night ;  much  of  the  public  business  is 
conducted  in  the  open  streets  and  many  shops 
never  close  their  doors  at  night.  Naples  has  at 
all  times  produced  great  men.  Statius,  Yelleius 
Paterculus,  among  the  ancients  ;  Sannazaro,  Borel- 
li,  Bernini,  Genovesi,  Filangieri,  Macchiavelli,  Vi- 
co,  etc.,  among  the  moderns  are  sufficient  without 
mentioning  the  rest.x 

Ignorant  and  bigoted  travelers  have  related 
many  stories  about  the  Lazzaroni.  I  laughed 
very  heartily  once,  when  I  was  asked  in  America 
by  a  well  educated  clergyman  to  what  race  of 
people  did  the  Lazzaroni  belong,  and  whether  I 
thought  that  they  were  of  the  same  race  as  our 
Indians.  Even  well  educated  and  well  meaning 
people  entertain  strange  ideas  about  these  Laz- 
zaroni. Who,  then,  are  the  Lazzaroni  ?  I  will 
answer  by  an  anecdote  of  an  occurrence  which 
happened  in  Naples,  in  my  time,  before  I  left  for 
America.  A  Jesuit  Father  from  Piedmont  came 
to  Naples  and  was  anxious  to  see  the  Lazzaroni. 
He  told  a  lay  brother  at  the  door,  who  was  a 
Neapolitan,  that  he  was  going  to  see  the  Lazzaroni. 


LAZZAEONI.  279 

The  lay  brother  smiled  at  him  but  said  nothing. 
He  engaged  a  timonella,  (a  kind  of  buggy,)  and 
said  to  the  driver,  "Go  where  the  Lazzaroni  are 
in  order  that  I  may  see  them."  He  drove  around 
the  Molo,  then  to  the  Largo  del  Castello,  now  Pi- 
azza del  MunicipiOj  then  to  the  quantai  vecchi, 
and  the  good  Father  at  last  asked  the  driver, 
"Where  are  the  Lazzaroni ?"\ 

The  driver  said  he  would  take  him  to  some 
other  place.  He  drove  to  the  Carmine,  then  to 
the  Porta  Capuana  and  Porta  8.  Gennaro,  and  the 
Father  asked  again,  "  But  where  are  the  Lazza- 
roni?" The  driver  answered,  "  Signo,  cJie  posso 
fa  I ;  quannu  fa  vientu  se  ne  stannu  dintu  casa. 
("  Sir,  what  can  I  do,  it  is  windy  and  when  there 
is  wind  they  stay  at  home.")  "Home,"  replied 
the  Father,  "I  have  heard  that  they  have  no 
houses."  Here  the  driver  said,  "They  go  into 
some  grotto,  portone  (door-yard),  or  other  shelter. "/ 

The  Father  felt  very  much  disappointed  and 
was  driven  back  to  the  College.  He  expressed 
his  disappointment,  in  not  having  succeeded  in 
seeing  any  Lazzaroni,  to  the  lay  brother.  The 
brother  laughed  and  said,  "  Who  was  the  driver  ? 
Was  he  not  a  Lazzarone  ? "  The  Father  replied, 
with  surprise,  "What!  do  the  Lazzaroni  drive 
carriages?'7  "To  be  sure,"  said  the  brother, 
"  they  are  like  other  people  and  you  have  seen 
thousands  of  them  in  the  streets  walking,  stand- 
ing or  chatting.  They  are  the  lower  class  of  the 
people,  called  Lazzaroni,  from  St.  Lazarus  their 
Patron  Saint."  They  work,  have  houses  and 


280  NAPLES. 

families  and  feel  contented  in  their  position. 
When  they  gain  enough  to  eat  and  drink,  and 
have  a  few  cents  to  spare  to  pay  to  see  a  punchi- 
nello  they  feel  as  happy  and  more  too,  than 
Rothschild  or  Stewart,  or  any  other  rich  man, 
who  is  burdened  with  money.  They  are  polite, 
obliging  and  honest ;  when  you  speak  to  any  one 
of  them,  he  will  always  take  off  his  hat.\ 

One  morning  we  went  to  visit  the  Church  of 
St.  Francis  De  Paulo  in  the  elegant  and  spacious 
square  called  Largo  del  Palazzo  Heale,  opposite 
to  the  Royal  Palace.  It  is  a  fine  edifice  embel- 
lished outside  with  two  rows  of  colonnades  in 
imitation  of  that  of  St.  Peter's  in  Rome,  and  the 
inside  is  ornamented  with  fine  marble  statues  in 
modern  style.  The  grand  altar  is  rich  with  lapis 
lazuli.  We  saw  also  the  Gesu  Nuovo  which  is  con- 
sidered to  be  the  best  church  in  Naples,  and  it  is 
of  the  same  style  of  architecture  as  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome.  The  outside  is  gloomy,  but  the  inside 
is  all  marble,  including  the  floor,  and  is  richly 
decorated.  In  a  side  chapel,  we  saw  the  body  of 
St.  Francis  de  Geronimo.  Thence  we  went  to 
the  church  of  St.  Chiara,  a  large  and  magnificent 
structure,  ornamented  inside  with  rich  marbles, 
and  it  is  the  bury  ing-place  of  the  Royal  Family. 
It  is  in  this  place  that  the  liquefaction  of  the  blood 
of  St.  Januarius  takes  place  twice  a  year  ;  when 
the  blood  which  is  contained  in  a  phial,  is  placed 
near  his  head,  which  is  carried  in  procession  from 
the  Cathedral.  I  have  witnessed  this  miracle 
myself  when  residing  in  the  city.  The  manner 


CHURCH    OF   ST.  CHIARA.  281 

of  behavior  of  the  Neapolitans  ma}'  appear, 
strange  to  foreigners,  especially  Protestants. 
When  the  blood  and  head  are  put  near  to  each 
other  on  the  high  altar,  in  the  presence  of  thou- 
sands of  people,  who  assemble  in  the  church  on 
that  occasion,  they  say  prayers  to  St.  Januarius 
to  perform  the  miracle.  If  it  takes  a  long  time 
to  make  the  liquefaction,  the  people  address  him 
in  a  friendly  and  brotherly  manner  to  beseech 
him  to  perform  the  miracle.  If  the  miracle 
is  not  performed  at  all,  or,  if  it  is  done  far 
later  than  usual,  it  is  considered  by  the  people 
of  Naples,  especially  by  the  Lazzaroni,  as  a  bad 
omen  .\ 

It  is  edifying  to  see  how  they  entreat,  expos- 
tulate, and  importune  him,  and  with  what  faith  and 
confidence  !  They  promise  to  say  more  prayers, 
to  recite  the  rosary  two  or  more  times,  as  if  the}' 
were  bargaining  with  St.  Januarius  to  perform  the 
miracle  at  the  end  of  the  extra  prayers — which, 
when  finished,  if  the  blood  still  refuses  to  liquify, 
they  rebuke  him  as  if  not  fulfilling  the  bargain. 
They  call  him  "  Lazzarone,  faccia  verder  (blue 
face),  and  other  injurious  names,  and  use  offensive 
expressions.  They  even  threaten  to  say  no  more 
prayers,  to  forget  him,  and  so  on.  Some  Protest- 
ants once  had  the  imprudence  to  laugh,  but  they 
were  glad  to  get  out  of  the  church  as  quick  as  pos- 
sible. The  Holy  Ghost  says,  "  Deridetur  justi 
simplicitas"  ("The  simplicity  of  the  just  is  ridi- 
culed 7?).  This  is  the  effect  of  faith,  confidence, 
and  religion — and  not  of  disrespect.  The  faith  of 


282  NAPLES. 

the  Neapolitans  is  great.  Their  devotion  to  the 
Blessed  Virgin  and  St.  Januarius  is  profound.  In 
times  of  pestilence,  earthquake,  and,  when  threat- 
ened by  the  blazing  Vesuvius,  they  have  recourse 
to  St.  Januarius,  and  they  have  always  experi- 
enced his  beneficial  aid.  They  continue  so  till 
the  miracle  is  performed.  In  the  evening,  we  re- 
turned to  Giugliano.\  » 

Wednesday  30th,  I,  my  brother  and  sister,  with 
my  nephew  and  niece,  went  to  see  Pompeii,  Her- 
culaneum,  Salerno,  Poestum,  Portici,  etc.  We 
started  in  a  carriage  for  Naples  ;  there  we  took  the 
cars  for  Portici,  where  there  is  a  splendid  palace 
belonging  to  the  Royal  Family,  which  com- 
mands a  view  of  Naples  and  the  bay,  unsurpassed 
by  any  other  point,  We  did  not  stop  at  the  Torre 
del  ffreco,  nor  to  the  Torre  deW  Annunziata,  be- 
cause we  intended  to  visit  them  on  our  return 
from  Poestum.  At  Pompeii,  we  paid  ten  francs 
and  were  furnished  with  a  guide.  The  gov- 
ernment arrangements  are  good — every  visitor  is 
obliged  to  give  two  livres,  and  nothing  else  is  to 
be  paid  ;  those  two  livres  include  the  guide's  fee. 
The  melancholy  history  of  Pompeii,  a  populous 
and  commercial  city  'on  the  River  Sarno,  is  well 
known.  During  an  eruption  of  Vesuvius,  in 
the  year  of  our  Lord,  79,  in  the  reign  of  Titus, 
this  city,  together  with  Herculaneum,  Stabiae,  Op- 
Ion  tia,  and  Teglanum,  was  buried  by  a  flood  of 
lava  and  a  shower  of  ashes.  The  small  number  of 
skeletons  found  shows  that  the  inhabitants  had 
time  to  escape.  Excavations  bring  to  light  the 
fact  that  Pompeii  was  first  reached  by  a  shower 


CITY   OF   POMPEII.  283 

of  hot  water,  then  by  ashes  and  gravel  (lapilli), 
which  makes  the  excavations  easy  and  the  ob- 
jects found  there  well  preserved  ;  but,  Hercula- 
neura  was  first  reached  by  a  stream  of  lava  which 
imbedded  the  city  in  such  a  manner  that,  when 
cooled,  it  formed  a  substance  several  feet  thick 
harder  than  a  rock,  i 

Pompeii  was  a  city  in  Campania,  twelve  miles 
south-east  of  Naples.      The  origin  of  this  -city  is 
involved  in  obscurity  ;  but  it  is  supposed  to  have 
been  settled  by  Osci  and  Pelasgi,  prior  to  the  es- 
tablishment on  this  coast  of  the  Greek  colonies 
from  Eubsea.   If  this  supposition  is  correct,  Pom- 
peii is  anterior  to  Cumoe.     It  is  certain  that  the 
Samnites  took  possession  of  it  in  440,  B.  c.,  who 
having  revolted,  were  replaced  by  Roman  colon- 
ies eighty  years  afterwards.     Pompeii  is  consid- 
ered the  most  interesting  and  wonderful  antiquity 
in  Italy.   Detached  buildings  and  isolated  Roman 
remains  are  found  in  many  places  ;  but,  an  entire 
city,  with   its  walls,  streets,  public   and   private 
buildings  furnished  with  every  article  of  furniture, 
utensils,  tools,  food,  etc.,  are  discovered  nowhere 
but  here.     They  exhibit  at  one  glance  the  domes- 
tic life  of  the  Romans  of  2000  years  ago.  We  see 
here  the  dispositions  of  their  houses,  and  the  do- 
mestic arrangements    of   their   furniture,   uten- 
sils, tools,  etc.     It  is  a  melancholy  sight  to  behold 
an  entire  city  without  inhabitants  ;  a  city  of  the 
dead.     In  the  streets  we  could  distinguish  the 
ruts  in  which  the  wheels  of  vehicles  once  rolled, 
temples  with  altars  to  false  gods,  houses  without 
tenants.     The  streets  are  well-paved,  straight  and 


284  NAPLES. 

furnished  with  sidewalks  ;  fountains  not  only  in 
the  streets  but  in  the  porches  of  private  houses. 
I  remarked  that  many  buildings  had  rooms  open- 
ing on  a  porch  without  a  roof  as  in  the  East.  I 
have  seen  many  of  this  description  in  Egypt  and 
Asia.\ 

The  names  of  many  houses  have  been  derived 
from  some  painting  or  some  name  found  on  the 
premises,  as,  for  instance,  the  villa  of  Diomede 
was  named  from  the  tomb  of  M.  Arrius  Diomedes, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road.  Near  the  gar- 
den gate  of  the  villa  were  found  two  skeletons 
supposed  to  be  the  owner  and  a  slave,  one  hold- 
ing the  keys  of  the  villa,  the  other  a  purse  con- 
taining 100  gold  and  silver  coins  and  cameos. 
They  were  supposed  to  have  been  suffocated  while 
endeavoring  to  find  their  way  out.  In  a  cellar  of 
the  villa,  twenty-seven  female  skeletons  were 
found  near  a  door,  and  the  impression  of  the 
breast  of  one  of  these  unfortunate  women  in  a 
once  soft  and  subsequently  hardened  mass  of 
ashes.  Ornaments  for  the  neck  and  arms  were 
lying  around  the  floor.  There  was  a  tavern,  and 
the  name  of  the  landlord  written  in  front  of  the 
door  ;  a  stable  where  rings  and  chains  to  fasten 
horses  were  found.x 

We  entered  Pompeii  by  the  gate  of  Hercula- 
neum  where  there  is  a  fine  wall  of  masonry  twen- 
ty feet  high.  The  Street  of  the  Tombs  is  the  most 
remarkable  on  account  of  the  many  tombs  which 
line  each  side  of  the  street.  Near  this  there  is  a 
villa  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  Cicero.  There 


SALERNO.  285 

were  eating  houses,  drinking  shops,  a  bakery,  and 
from  several  surgical  instruments  found  in  a  house, 
it  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  office  or  the  dwel- 
ling-house of  a  surgeon.  In  many  houses  there 
were  found  bread,  flour,  tables  set  with  many 
dishes  containing  meats,  vegetables,  fish  and 
wines.  All  that  could  be  moved  without  injury  is 
preserved  in  the  Bourbon  Museum,  where  we  saw 
all  these  articles.  We  visited  the  forum,  the 
theatre,  the  amphitheatre,  and  the  barracks  for 
the  soldiers  ;  a  large  building  capable  of  containing 
5,000  soldiers,  called,  formerly,  the  Forum./ 

At  the  Hotel  di  Diomede  we  took  dinner,  drank 
the  Lacryma  Christi,  and  in  the  afternoon  took 
the  cars  for  Salerno,  and  purchased  some  good 
wine  for  Paestum.  The  scenery  here  is  truly  ro- 
mantic, amongst  mountains,  groves,  gardens 
and  forests.  On  the  right  we  left  the  road  lead- 
ing to  Sorrento,  where,  in  former  days  I  had  vis- 
ited the  grottoes  of  Ulysses,  and  the  house  where 
Torquato  Tasso  was  born.  We  passed  the  hand- 
some village  of  La  Cava,  and  arrived  at  Salerno 
late  in  evening.  We  stopped  at  a  good  hotel,  and 
made  arrangements  to  start  early  in  the  morning 
for  Passtuni.  We  made  provision  for  dinner,  en- 
gaged a  guide  and  carriage  for  thirty  francs  ;  the 
hour  for  starting  was  fixed  at  5  A.  M.\ 

But  when  I  proposed  the  question  whether  the 
guide  and  vetturino  would  guarantee  us  from  be- 
ing robbed,  they  refused  to  give  any  assurance 
because  they  had  heard  of  robberies  by  banditti 
in  that  locality  every  day.  I,  the  guide,  and  the 
18 


286  NAPLES. 

vetturino,  went  together  to  the  police-office  for  in- 
formation about  the  security  of  the  road  to  Paestum. 
We  learned  that  on  the  previous  night  the  stage 
had  been  assaulted  by  banditti  and  all  the  passen- 
gers robbed,  and  even  stripped  of  their  clothes, 
and  barely  escaped  with  their  lives. x 

Counselling  together  with  my  brother  and  sis- 
ter, whether  we  could  venture  by  taking  a  number 
of  policemen  and  gendarmes  with  us,  we  con- 
cluded to  give  up  that  expedition.  Next  to 
Pompeii,  Psestum  is  the  best  antiquity  in  Italy. 
The  Basilica,  the  Temple  of  Neptune,  that  of 
Vesta,  the  Forum  and  Amphitheatre,  are  so  well 
preserved  that  few  antiquities  can  equal  them. 
They  are  solid  and  gigantic  structures,  and  stand- 
ing solitary  and  alone  amongst  mountains  and 
wilderness,  like  the  antiquities  of  Balbec,  have  an 
enchanting  effect./ 

Next  morning,  October  31st,  we  visited  the 
city,  which  is  very  ancient,  and  badly  built ;  the 
streets  are  irregular,  and  in  many  places  very 
steep  ;  Salerno  was  called  Civitas  Hippocratica, 
and  is  located  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre, 
on  the  gulf  of  the  same  name.  It  contains  12,000 
inhabitants  ;  its  School  of  Medicine  is  famous,  and 
was  once  the  nursery  of  all  the  medical  faculties 
in  Europe.  It  was  founded  by  the  Arabs  and 
Saracens  ;  it  was  the  principal  source  of  modern 
practical  medicine,  and  its  precepts  were  put  in 
verse,  and  widely  diffused  in  every  part  of 
Europe.  We  were  obliged  to  leave  the  carriage 
and  walk  some  distance,  in  order  to  visit  the  Cathe- 


SALERNO.  287 

dral,  which  is  a  splendid  building,  and  magnifi- 
cent in  its  architecture  and  ornaments.  In  the 
subterranean  chapel  we  saw  the  tomb  of  Pope 
Gregory  the  Great,  and  were  shown  the  body  of 
the  Apostle  St.  Matthew  and  the  bodies  of  several 
martyrs.v 

The  people  of  Salerno  contend  that  they  never 
gave  up  the  body  of  the  Apostle  St.  Matthew,  but 
when  they  were  forced  to  do  so,  they  gave  another 
body  instead  of  that  of  St.  Matthew,  which  they 
kept  in  Salerno,  and  they  show  it  in  the  Cathedral, 
and  we  venerated  it.  We  went  to  La  Cava  in  a 
carriage,  and  the  ride  was  most  charming  ;  the 
road  went  winding  amongst  finely  cultivated 
mountains,  whose  picturesque  views  changed  at 
every  turn  of  the  road.  The  day  was  beautiful, 
and  the  romantic  scenery  makes  the  ride  to  La 
Cava  one  of  the  best  trips  in  Italy.  We  took  a 
kind  of  grotesque  dinner,  then  we  visited  the  town, 
and  by  cars  we  went  to  Torre  deirAnnunziata.  We 
spent  about  half  an  hour  to  see  the  church  and  the 
city,  and  engaged  a  carriage  for  Herculaneum.  / 

We  paid  two  lire  each,  according  to  the  regula- 
tions of  the  government ;  a  guide  was  given  us  ; 
and  each  of  us  was  furnished  with  a  candle.  We 
were  led  by  the  guide  down  a  dark  stairway,  and 
first  of  all  we  saw  the  theatre  of  Herculaneum,  or 
what  was  excavated  from  the  hard  lava  twenty- 
seven  feet  under  ground.  It  was  a  large  building 
capable  of  containing  ten  thousand  spectators. 
No  other  light  penetrates  this  subterranean  place 
except  that  from  a  well,  the  digging  of  which  was 


"288  NAPLES. 

the  first  discovery  of  the  long  buried  and  forgot- 
ten Herculaneum.  This  discovery  led  to  the  find- 
ing of  Pompeii,  Stabiae,  etc.  We  saw  the  stage, 
the  orchestra,  the  consular  seats,  the  proscenium, 
and  the  rooms  for  the  actors,  and  passages  lead- 
ing to  them,  all  being  a  hard  mass  of  lava.  The 
corridors  also  with  some  frescoes  are  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation.  Several  precious  statues 
found  here  have  been  removed  to  the  Bourbonic 
museum.  Near  the  sea  we  saw  a  part  of  the  har- 
bor, the  jail,  streets  paved  with  lava,  and  side- 
walks. The  baths  found  here  as  well  as  in  Pom- 
peii, are  magnificent,  and  have  contributed  many 
improvements  to  our  present  baths.  The  houses 
here,  and  in  Pompeii,  were  painted  and  frescoed, 
and  they  look  as  fresh  as  if  the  paintings  were 
done  yesterday.  The  colors  are  bright,  and  the 
figures  are  of  superior  workmanship.  Many  stat- 
ues, bronzes,  mosaics,  etc.,  have  been  removed  to 
the  Royal  museum  at  Naples.  The  houses  had 
windows  closed  by  wooden  shutters  as  in  Italy  ; 
although  some  thick  panes  of  glass  were  found  ; 
yet  they  must  have  been  melted,  having  been  ex- 
posed to  the  exterior  action  of  the  heat.  Glasses 
inside  the  houses  were  preserved  because  protect- 
ed from  the  exterior  heat.  It  is  supposed  that  the 
people  of  Herculaneum  had  time  to  fly,  and  re- 
move their  valuables,  as  not  many  rich  objects, 
and  still  fewer  skeletons  were  found.  The  jail 
was  found  open,  and  no  skeletons  were  in  it ;  it 
is  supposed  that  the  doors  had  been  unclosed  to 
give  an  opportunity  to  the  prisoners  to  escape. \ 


LACRYMA    CHRIST!.  289 

Various  articles  of  food,  such  as  corn,  barley, 
almonds,  figs,  etc.,  which  we  saw  in  Naples,  were 
preserved  in  their  original  form.  Many  papyri 
manuscripts,  and  an  extensive  library,  were  found 
rolled,  and  laying  on  shelves,  but  in  ashes.  A 
curious  machinery  has  been  invented  in  Naples 
to  unroll  them  by  steam.  This  wonderful  and  in- 
genious machine,  invented  by  a  Neapolitan  priest, 
has  rendered  valuable  service  to  science  and  lit- 
erature, by  unfolding  these  papyri.  A  learned 
and  antiquarian  society  has  been  formed  in  Na- 
ples, having  members  throughout  Italy,  to  inter- 
pret them.  Several  volumes  have  been  printed, 
and  they  have  given  valuable  historical  informa- 
tion, and  still  more  is  expected  when  the  work 
will  be  finishedx 

Emerged  from  this  subterranean  city  we  re- 
sumed our  seats  in  the  carriage,  and  rode  through 
Resina,  a  village  of  9,000  inhabitants,  principally 
situated  upon  the  ruins  of  Herculaneum.  Here 
is  made  the  famous  and  luscious  wine  called 
Lacryma.  I  do  not  know  where  and  by  whom 
originated  the  profanation  of  calling  it  Lacryma 
Christi.  This  is  not  the  name  by  which  it  is  known 
in  Italy  ;  the  first  time  that  I  ever  heard  this 
profanation  was  in  New  England,  in  America. 
Although  I  have  resided  two  years  in  Sorrento 
and  four  in  Naples,  and  many  a  time  have  been 
in  these  localities,  and  drank  the  Lacryma,  I 
never  heard  it  called  Lacrym,a  Christi.  The  reason 
why  it  is  called  Lacryma  is,  that  in  making  this 
kind  of  wine  they  pick  out  and  select  the  best 


290  NAPLES. 

grapes  from  the  bunches  of  a  peculiar  kind  of 
grape  raised  in  this  locality  ;  they  press  them 
enough  to  let  the  first  drops  of  juice  run  from  the 
cracks  of  the  grapes,  which  drops  look  like  tears, 
hence  the  wine  is  called  Lacryma,  not  of  Christ, 
but  of  the  grapesA 

We  reached  Portici,  another  village  of  6,000 
inhabitants.  Herculaneum  lies  eighty  feet  under 
the  streets  of  this  village.  It  is  the  favorite  res- 
idence of  the  wealthy  and  aristocratic  classes  of 
the  Neapolitans  in  the  spring  and  fall ;  the  palace  of 
the  king,  and  its  museum  of  antiquities,  are  grand. 
The  public  road  passes  through  the  yard  of  the 
palace.  We  arrived  at  Naples  in  the  evening, 
and  took  another  carriage  for  Griugliano.\ 

November  1st,  Friday,  after  mass  at  the  usual 
church,  we  rode  to 'Naples.  I  went  to  see  the 
Yery  Rev.  Father  Ferrante,  provincial  of  the  Jes- 
uits of  Naples.  Afterwards  we  visited  the  Roy- 
al palace,  for  which  we  got  a  written  permission. 
It  is  a  massive,  large  building,  richly  ornamented 
inside,  and  the  chapel  in  which  a  clergyman,  inde- 
pendent of  the  archbishop  of  Naples  officiates,  is 
truly  splendid.  Yet  the  palace  is  inferior  to  that 
of  Caserta.  In  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  Cata- 
combs, which  are  larger  and  more  extensive  than 
those  of  Rome.  They  extend  for  miles  and  miles, 
and  are  not  all  explored  ;  they  are  divided  into 
three  stories  communicating  with  each  other  by 
flights  of  stairs  or  by  inclined  planes.  They  con- 
tain many  halls  and  corridors.  We  entered  by 
the  entrance  from  the  St.  G-ennaro  de1  Poveri, 


CAMPO   SANTO.  291 

the  subterranean  church  used  by  the  primitive 
Christians  ;  the  altar,  the  chairs  of  the  bishop  and 
clergy,  are  all  cut  from  the  solid  rock,  and  are  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation.  The  tombs  are  ar- 
ranged like  shelves  on  both  sides  of  the  corridors, 
and  closed  and  cemented  ;  only  a  few  of  them  have 
been  opened,  and  bones  can  be  found  scattered  on 
the  floor.  Some  stuccos  and  paintings  are  yet  vis- 
ible.\ 

Naples  has  300  churches.  The  Cathedral  is  a 
fine  structure,  and  the  best  in  Naples  ;  it  was  built 
in  1299,  from  the  design  of  Niccolo  Pisano.  The 
body  of  St.  Januarius  lies  in  the  subterranean 
chapel,  and  his  blood  in  the  splendid  chapel  of  the 
treasury.  In  this  chapel  there  is  a  very  valuable 
treasury,  and  amongst  the  other  objects  are  thirty 
solid  silver  life-size  statues,  the  preservation  of 
which  is  due  to  the  Lazzaroni.  In  the  time  of  the 
French  Revolution,  the  French  pillaged  every 
church  in  the  city  ;  but  when  they  came  to  take  the 
treasury  of  St.  Januarius,  the  Lazzaroni  paraded 
in  front  of  the  church,  and  with  stones  pelted  the 
French  cavalry,  which  had  come  to  support  the 
pillagers,  until  both  were  obliged  to  retreat.  This 
being  a  holy  day  of  obligation,  the  stores  and 
shops  in  Naples  were  closed,  with  the  exception 
of  some  belonging  to  the  Jews.\ 

Next  day,  the  2d  of  November,  being  All  Souls 
day,  after  Mass  we  took  two  carriages  and  every 
one  of  our  families  went  to  the  Campo  Santo.  Na- 
ples has  two  Campo  Santos  ;  the  old  one  contains 
365  cells.  One  of  these  cells  is  opened  every 


292  NAPLES. 

morning  in  rotation,  and  the  dead  bodies  of  the 
previous  day  are  buried  in  it ;  the  cell  then  is 
closed,  and  opened  no  more  for  one  year.  The 
next  morning  another  is  opened,  and^so  on  through- 
out the  year.  The  respect  of  the  Neapolitans  for 
the  dead  is  great.  The  bodies  are  never  buried 
before  being  left  for  twenty-four  hours  in  the  dead- 
hall,  where  they  are  adjusted  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  least  movement  of  the  body  touches  a 
spring  and  rings  a  bell  in  the  room  of  the  watch- 
man. This  arrangement  is  made  in  order  to  find 
out  the  revival  of  any  one  of  them,  and  thus  to  pre- 
vent some  of  them  from  being  interred  alive.  This 
Campo  Santo  is  only  used  for  the  interment  of  per- 
sons having  no  particular  tombs,  or  not  belonging 
to  any  confraternity.  There  is  a  church  belonging 
to  this  Campo  Santo  in  which  a  chaplain  officiates 
every  day.\ 

The  new  Campo  Santo  is  a  grand  affair,  and  the 
best  that  I  have  ever  seen.  There,  not  only  every 
congregation,  confraternity,  convent,  society,  etc., 
have  their  own  church,  but  every  family  that 
wishes  it,  has  a  particular  chapel  into  which,  or 
under  which,  the  corpses  are  deposited.  So  that 
if  Naples  has  300  churches,  the  Campo  Santo  has 
innumerable  chapels.  But  what  a  sight  on  All 
Souls'  day  !  Half  Naples  was  there,  not  frolick- 
ing or  promenading,  but  kneeling  on  the  graves  of 
their  relations  and  friends,  praying,  shedding 
tears,  reciting  beads  ;  while  on  all  altars  erected 
permanently  there,  which  are  counted  by  thous- 
ands, the  holy  sacrifice  of  Mass  is  offered.  The 


BOURBONJC    MUSEUM.  293 

chapels  and  tombs  are  properly  ornamented  for 
the  occasion  ;  you  hear  thousands  of  voices  chant- 
ing the  office  of  the  dead  in  the  chapels  belonging 
to  the  different  confraternities,  and  High  Masses 
are  sung  with  great  solemnity  by  hundreds  and 
simultaneously  in  the  different  churches,  and  in 
many  chapels.  The  pathetic  strains  of  the  solemn 
and  beautiful  sacred  music  are  heard  in  the 
churches  and  chapels,  and  the  best  professors  are 
engaged  for  the  occasion  ;  most  of  the  priests 
from  Naples  and  surrounding  villages  are  secured 
many  weeks  in  anticipation,  in  order  to  celebrate 
in  the  Campo  Santo  on  that  day,  and  during  the  oc- 
tave, which  is  kept  with  the  same  piety  and  de- 
votion, although  with  less  solemnity.  Millions  of 
candles  burn  around  the  graves.  It  was  a  sight 
which  I  can  never  forget.v 

November  3d,  Sunday  after  Mass  I,  with  my 
brother  and  sister,  rode  to  Naples,  and  most  of 
the  day  was  employed  in  visiting  the  Bourbonic 
museum,  a  description  of  which  would  fill  volumes. 
It  is  sufficient  to  say  that  the  collection  of  ancient 
paintings  numbers  2,000  pieces  ;  that  of  ancient 
glasses  contains  4,000  specimens.\ 

We  took  great  interest  especially  in  examining 
the  curiosities  found  in  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum, 
the  statues,  paintings,  mosaics,  gold  ornaments, 
precious  stones,  cameos,  furniture,  domestic  uten- 
sils, petrified  bread,  meat,  fishes,  sweet-meats, 
fruits,  thousands  of  varieties  of  pottery  for  every 
use,  stoves,  cooking  apparatus,  kettles,  frying- 
pans,  etc.,  surgical  instruments,  medicines,  scales, 


294  NAPLES. 

weights,  nails,  screws,  letters  for  stamping  bread, 
etc.  Amongst  the  other  objects  of  curiosity  we 
were  shown  a  shirt  of  a  material  called  Salamander, 
which  does  not  burn  in  the  fire  ;  it  was  found  at 
Pompeii.  The  world- renowned  Toro  Farnese,  a 
group  formed  out  of  a  solid  block  of  marble  two 
hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era,  is  kept  in 
this  museum.  It  is  a  wonderful  masterpiece  of 
sculpture.  This  museum  is  justly  considered  to 
be  the  best,  and  the  largest  in  the  world.  We 
visited  the  library,  which  contains  about  250,000 
volumes,  besides  17,000  papyri  found  in  Hercula- 
neum  ;  and  thousands  of  manuscripts.  There  is 
an  echo  in  the  library  which  answers  twenty-two 
times. \ 

November  4th  we  went  to  Naples  and  enjoyed 
a  view  of  Vesuvius,  which  was  vomiting  lava. 
We  could  see  the  stream  of  fire  issuing  from  the 
mouth  of  the  mountain,  running  down  the  valley. 
It  was  dangerous  to  attempt  an  ascension  of  Ve- 
suvius at  this  time.  I  had  visited  it  many  years 
before.  Vesuvius  only  represents  the  remains 
of  a  more  ancient  and  larger  volcano,  and  Mount 
Somma  is  a  part  of  it.  walked  on  foot  with  a 
number  of  students  ;  the  road  to  the  Hermitage 
is  rough,  rugged,  full  of  lava  of  black  burned 
stone,  scorice,  a  mixture  of  iron  and  ashes,  all  eject- 
ed by  the  volcano  ;  then  comes  a  steep  ascent  after 
which  we  reached  the  crater.  It  is  an  awful  sight ! 
You  hear  thundering,  bellowing,  and  cannonading 
under  your  feet ;  the  ground  intolerably  hot  ; 
smells  of  brimstone,  vapors  arising  from  cracks, 


MOUNT   VESUVIUS.  295 

smoke  emerging  from  many  holes  in  the  crust. 
The  entire  crater,  except  the  centre,  is  a  crust 
covering  the  fire  burning  underneath.  If  a  stick 
is  thrust  into  one  of  these  holes,  it  takes  fire  im- 
mediately. It  is  necessary  to  follow  the  guide, 
because  a  foot  may  be  put  where  the  crust  is  not 
hard  enough  to  bear.  When  I  visited  Vesuvius 
it  was  casting  immense  columns  of  ashes,  smoke, 
and  flames,  and  throwing  immense  fiery  rocks  at 
least  four  miles  high.  It  was  providential  that 
the  wind  was  blowing  strong  from  the  opposite  side 
and  the  materials  cast  off  forming  a  large  parabola, 
and  falling,  rolled  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, down  into  the  valley.  It  requires  strong 
nerves  to  stand  on  Mount  Vesuvius.  The  moun- 
tain was  shaking,  quivering,  thundering,  and  roar- 
ing ;  yet  we  ascended  the  cone,  although  with 
some  difficulty,\ 

We  did  not  stop  long  at  the  brink  of  the  crater 
looking  down  the  gaping  mouth  of  the  mountain. 
The  aperture  was  only  about  thirty  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  it  varies  oftentimes.  Sometimes  the  cone 
disappears,  sometimes  it  is  higher  or  larger,  ac- 
cording to  the  state  or  condition  of  the  mountain. 
Nobody  ascending  this  volcano  is  expected  to 
descend  with  sound  shoes.  When  I  first  saw  Ve- 
suvius on  returning  from  America,  it  did  not  throw 
forth  smoke.  This  is  the  first  time  that  I  have 
witnessed  it  in  that  state  ;  and  it  is  a  bad  omen, 
and  a  sign  of  an  approaching  eruption. \ 

Now  I  determined  to  delay  no  longer  going  to 
Rome,  but  it  was  nearly  impossible.  Garibaldi 


296  NAPLES. 

had  invaded   the  Roman  States  ;  he  had  cut  off 
all  communications,  destroyed   the   railroads  on 
both  sides  ;  he  had  cut  the  telegraphic  communi- 
cation and  no  news  could  be  received  from  Rome, 
upon  which  city  he  was  advancing.     The  mail 
from  upper  Italy  was  obliged  to  go  around  the 
Apennines  to  Foggia  and  to  Bovino,  and  from 
thence  by  diligence  to  Naples.     Wild  rumors  of 
every  description  and  of  the  worst  kind  were  afloat. 
I  went  to  the  agents  of  the  different  lines  of  rail- 
roads and  steamboats,  and  they  said  that  there  was 
no  communication  with  Rome.  I  went  to  the  Ameri- 
can consul  and  he  confirmed  it  officially.     I  went 
to  a  friend  of  mine  the  Marquis  Balsamo,  who 
owned  a  part  of  the  line  of  steamers  to  Mar- 
seilles which  touch  at  Civita  Vecchia,  and  he  told 
me  that  a  steamer  was  going  on  the  next  day, 
and  although  the  railroad  from  Civita  Yecchia 
to  Rome  was  in  the  hands  of  the  French  who 
were  transporting  troops  to  Rome,  yet  he  told 
me  that  I  could  pass.     So  I  availed  myself  of  this 
opportunity.     I  advised  my  sister  and  brother  to 
remain  in  Naples  till  my  return  in  one  week.     I 
was  obliged  to  go  to  the  Spanish  consul  to  get  a 
vise  to  my  passport  in  order  to  proceed  to  Rome  ! 
It  cost  me  over  five  francs  and  was  of  no  use.  What 
has  Spain  to  do  between  Rome  and  Italy  ?   I  only 
spent  my  money  without  profit.     An  Italian  must 
subject  himself  to  a  foreign  consul  to  get  a  pass- 
port to  go  to  another  part  of  Italy  ?    The  Roman 
authorities  do  not  let  any  person   pass  with  an 
Italian  passport,  not  even  the  Italians  themselves  !\ 


CIVITA  VECCHIA.  297 

Next   day  in  the   afternoon   I  embarked  for 
Civita  Vecchia.     It  was   a   pleasant  sail   along 
the    coast    of    Naples,    Pozzuoli,     Cumae,    and 
passing  close  to  the  romantic  Islands  of  Nisita, 
Ischia  and   Procida,  we  rounded   Cape   Miseno 
and  enjoyed  the  picturesque  views  of  the  famous 
Lakes  Fusaro  and  Fucino,  the  mare  morto  (dead 
sea)  and  the  Elysian  fields.    I  had  at  one  sight  as 
in  a  panorama  all  the  classic  places  described  by 
Virgil.     It  was  a  glorious  evening.     The  setting 
sun,  the .  Italian  sun  !  illuminating   those   classic 
shores,  ruins,  temples,  cities  venerable  for  their  age 
and  once  inhabited  by  a  world-renowned  people, 
excited  in  me  sentiments  of  profound  admiration. 
The  glassy  waters  reflecting  as  in  a  mirror  those 
immortal  monuments  ;  the  sun  setting  in  the  full 
splendor  of  its  beauty  and  majesty,  and  vanish- 
ing away  by  degrees  ;  the  steamer  rapidly  plow- 
ing the  immense  azure  waters  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean, the  objects  retreating  and  growing  fainter 
and  still  fainter,  presented  to  me  a  vivid  history  of 
their  transient  glory  and   bygone  existence.     It 
was  the  image  of  Time  !  It  explained  to  me  better 
than   in   books  the   fleeting  condition  of  human 
things!     The  uext  morning  we  arrived  in  Civita 
Vecchia.     There  I  saw  many  French  men-of-war, 
steamers  disembarking  artillery  and  cavalry,  and 
the   harbor   was   all   animation,  landing   troops. 
We  passed  several  hours  waiting  before  we  got 
permission  from  the  police  to  leave  the  steamer. 
We  became  weary  of  this  delay  and  it  caused  us 
to  lose  the  train  for  Kome.\ 


298  NAPLES. 

We  were  obliged  to  send  ashore  our  passports 
and  after  waiting  a  long  time  an  officer  came  on 
board  and  gave  us  a  written  permission  to  be 
presented  to  the  police.  We  disembarked,  our 
valises  were  examined  by  the  custom-house  officers 
and  on  presenting  the  written  permission  I  re- 
ceived my  passport  and  obtained  leave  to  enter 
the  city.  The  price  for  landing  was  mezzo,  lira. 
I  sent  my  valise  to  the  station  for  Rome  for 
another  half  lira.\ 

Although  the  train  for  Rome  was  to  leave  at 
2:30  P.  M.,  the  time  appeared  to  me  so  long  that  I 
did  not  know  what  to  do  with  myself.  I  visited 
the  fortifications  and  the  harbor,  built  by  the 
Emperor  Trajano  and  improved  by  Urban  VIII., 
and  the  French  troops.  The  city  is  well  built 
but  does  not  afford  much  interest  to  the  traveler. 
The  French  were  repairing  the  massive  walls  and 
fortifying  the  harbor,  and  patching  the  old  forti- 
fications. In  the  afternoon  I  left  for  Rome.  The 
cars  are  the  most  miserable  that  I  have  ever  seen. 
I  had  a  second  class  ticket  and  I  thought  that  I 
was  in  the  third  class  ;  the  seats  had  no  cushions 
and  looked  to  me  inferior  to  the  third  class  cars 
in  any  other  country.  I  complained  of  it  saying 
they  were  third  class  cars  and  I  was  told  by  an 
officer  that  they  had  been  so  for  eight  years. 
"  Still  worse,"  I  replied,  "  if  in  eight  years  there 
has  been  no  improvement  there  is  a  poor  pros- 
pect for  the  future."\ 

We  passed  through  a  marshy  land  showing  evi- 
dently that  the  place  is  not  healthy.  I  saw  Palo 


MARTIAL   LAW.  299 

and  some  fine  villas ;  we  coasted  the  famous  Tiber 
and  about  7  P.  M.  we  arrived  in  Rome.  I  drove 
to  the  Hotel  de  Minerva  and  made  a  bargain  with 
the  landlord.  The  room  was  not  convenient,  but 
every  place  was  occupied  by  French  officers  and 
soldiers.  I  learned  that  Rome  was  under  martial 
law.\ 


CHAPTER  XII. 

ROME  —  RETURN    TO  NAPLES. 

\  ROME  —  ST.  PETER'S  —  CARDINAL  BARNABO  —  SOALA  SANTA  —  ST.  JOHN  LATERAN 
-  ST.  MARIA  MAGGIORE  -  AUDIENCE  WITH  THE  POPE  -  PIUS  IX.  -  KING  OF 
NAPLES  —  REV.  CHRISTIAN  KAUDER  —  RETURN  TO  NAPLES  —  POZZUOLI  —  AMPHI- 
THEATRE —  CUM^E  —  ACHERUSIA  —  AVERNO  -  GROTTO  OF  THE  SYBIL  -  BATHS  OF 
NERO  —  MISENO  -  BALE  —  RETURN  TO  NAPLES.  \ 


morning,  Friday,  November  8th,  I  went 
to  the  Gesu  to  see  Father  Sopranis  and  Rt.  Rev. 
Father  Beckx,  the  General  of  the  Jesuits.  I 
visited  Cardinal  Patrizi,  the  Yicar  of  Rome,  and 
obtained  permission  to  say  Mass  on  the  torab  of 
the  Holy  Apostles  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul  in  the  sub- 
terranean chapel  erected  by  Constantine  the  Great. 
I  was  kindly  allowed  to  say  Mass  there  every  day 
during  my  stay  in  Rome.  A  favor  seldom  grant- 
ed, and  I  was  told  by  Monsignor  -  -  the  Sacres- 
tano  Maggiore,  that  to  say  Mass  on  that  altar  they 
must  generally  apply  weeks  before  they  can  cele- 
brate only  once.  I  left  my  cassock  in  the  Sacristy 
of  St.  Peter.x 

Rome,  the  centre  of  Christendom  for  2,500 
years  has  been  connected  with  nearly  every  great 
and  memorable  event  that  has  happened  in  the 
world.\ 


CITY  OF  THE  SEVEN  HILLS.  301 

Rome  was  founded  in  the  year  754,  B.C.,  ac- 
cording to  Yaro,  by  Romulus  and  Remus,  who 
made  a  colony  from  Alba  Longa — or,  I  would  say, 
that  Rome  proper  was  not  entirely  new,  but  it 
was  rather  an  extension  of  Pallantium,  built  by 
Greek  colonists  on  the  Capitoline  Mount,  which 
perhaps  was  in  existence  in  the  time  of  Romulus, 
who  did  not  give  the  name  to  Rome,  but  prob- 
ably derived  his  name  from  the  city.     Rome  was 
called  after  the  river  which  was  anciently  called 
Rumon,  as  Servius  informs  us.     The  city  at  pres- 
ent numbers  190,000  inhabitants,  including  9000 
Jews,  and  it  barely  occupies  half  of  the  ground 
inclosed  by  the  walls  of  ancient  Rome.     It  is  di- 
vided by  the  Tiber  into  two  unequal  parts,  and  is 
about  fifteen  miles  in  circumference.     The  streets 
are  narrow,  except  the  Corso,  but  the  churches, 
palaces,  squares,  and  fountains  are  magnificent ; 
which,   together  with  the  antiquities  and  ruins, 
proclaim   the   ancient  majesty  and   the   present 
greatness  of  the  city  called  once  the  "  City  of  the 
Seven  Hills"     It  is  entered  by  sixteen  gates  ;  ten 
of  which  have  been  walled  up,  and  the  French 
have  closed  four  of  them,  and  the  two  remaining 
are  encumbered  by  ditches  and  breastworks  for 
cannons.     On  account  of  the  martial  law  there 
were  only  a  few,  if  any  travelers  ;  but  the  city 
was  full  of  French  soldiers,  who  were  to  be  met 
everywhere,  and  had  quarters  in  every  convent, 
college,  etc.     At  the  Gesu  there  were  three  com- 
panies.    The  Basilica  of  St.  PauFs  was  occupied 
by  French  troops  ;  every  square  had  cannon  and 
19 


302  ROME. 

soldiers.  Public  buildings,  museums,  etc.  were 
closed  ;  citizens  were  required  to  retire  before 
dark;  all  monuments,  as  the  Coliseum,  Cam- 
pidoglio,  etc.  were  watched  by  a  guard  ;  so,  not 
finding  my  stay  in  Eome  very  pleasant,  I  deter- 
mined to  leave  the  city  as  soon  as  possible.\ 

My  first  visit,  of  course,  was  to  St.  Peter's— 
the  pride  of  Eome  and  of  the  entire  world — the 
most  beautiful,  the  most  conspicuous,  and  the 
largest  temple  on  earth.  The  design  is  by 
Bramante,  and  continued  in  succession  by  San- 
gallo,  Peruzzi,  and  Michael  Angelo,  who  erected 
its  immense  dome,  which  is  450  feet  high.  Ma- 
derno  finished  the  front  and  the  two  towers.  The 
first  stone  was  laid  by  Pope  Julius  II.,  on  the 
18th  of  April,  1506,  and  it  was  finished  in  1614. 
It  cost  $50,000,000.  The  church  is  in  the  form 
of  a  Latin  cross.  The  nave  is  607  feet  long  and 
the  length  of  the  transept  444  feet.  It  occupies 
the  site  of  Nero's  circus,  on  the  spot  where  St. 
Peter  was  martyred — that  rock  on  which  Christ 
built  His  church.  Storms  of  heresies,  persecu- 
tions, infidelities,  and  vandalism  have  swept  over 
it.  The  gates  of  hell  have  endeavored  to  beat  it 
flat  to  the  ground.  She  sits  majestic  on  the  seven 
hills,  reigning  over  the  whole  world  ;  she  is  still 
the  chair  of  Peter,  the  humble  fisherman.  \ 

Emerging  from  the  street,  I  was  attracted  by 
the  beautiful  square,  ornamented  in  the  centre  by 
an  Egyptian  obelisk,  having  on  each  side  a  foun- 
tain. In  front  it  is  surrounded  by  a  magnificent 
colonnade  by  Bernini,  supported  by  four  rows  of 


ST.  PETER'S.  303 

columns,  and  united  to  the  church.  On  the  entab- 
lature there  are  192  statues,  each  eleven  and  a 
half  feet  high.  The  height  of  these  colonnades  is 
sixty-four  feet.  A  long  flight  of  marble  steps 
leads  to  the  porch,  which  is  four  hundred  and  thir- 
ty-nine feet  long,  thirty-seven  feet  wide,  and  six- 
ty-two feet  high  ;  and,  in  approaching  it,  I  gazed 
with  amazement  at  the  magnificent  mosaic  of 
Giotto  representing  La  Navicella  (the  ship),  and 
under  the  portico,  opposite  the  great  door,  is  the 
great  bas-relief,  depicting  Christ  commanding  Pe- 
ter to  feed  his  sheep  and  lambs — a  grand  master- 
piece of  the  celebrated  Bernini.  On  entering  the 
church,  my  eyes  and  mind  became  enchanted  by 
the  grandeur,  harmony,  and  proportions  of  this 
august  temple  in  which,  immense  as  it  is,  I  could 
distinguish  all  the  parts  without  confusion  or  dif- 
ficulty; and,  when  each  object  is  examined  apart, 
every  person  is  astonished  at  the  magnitude  of 
this  temple.\ 

But  the  mind  and  heart  become  attracted  by 
the  hundred  shining  lamps  that,  day  and  night, 
blaze  upon  the  confession  or  tomb  of  the  Holy 
Apostles,  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.  Thither  I  di- 
rected my  steps  and,  prostrate  at  the  Limina 
Apostolorum,  I  offered  my  humble  prayers — 
but  the  sincere  prayers  of  a  pilgrim  who,  al- 
though born  in  Italy,  yet  hailed  from  the  distant 
shores  across  the  ocean.  My  heart  throbbed  as 
I  reflected  on  the  great  grace  and  happiness 
granted  to  me  by  the  Almighty  of  kneeling  on 
that  spot  where  so  many  good  Christians  and  po- 


304  TCOME. 

tentates  desired  to  prostrate  themselves  and  could 
not !  How  many  saints,  kings,  and  men  despised 
by  the  world  have  knelt  there  !\ 

After  some  time  spent  in  prayer  and  med- 
itation, in  silence  and  alone,  I  contemplated  the 
immense  canopy  of  the  high  altar,  supported  by 
four  twisted  columns  of  Corinthian  bronze  ;  that 
sublime  dome,  the  boldest  work  of  modern  ar- 
chitecture. To  attain  a  correct  idea  of  the  im- 
mense size  of  the  Church  of  St.  Peter,  one  must 
ascend  the  dome,  from  the  top  of  which,  looking 
down  at  persons  walking  on  the  pavement,  you 
can  scarcely  realize  them  to  be  human  beings,  so 
diminutive  are  they  in  appearance.  The  ball  that 
supports  the  cross  at  the  top  of  the  dome,  is  ca- 
pable of  accommodating  sixteen  persons.  Oppo- 
site the  high  altar  on  the  wall,  is  the  chair  of  St. 
Peter  supported  by  four  colossal  marble  statues 
of  superior  workmanship — St.  Jerome,  St.  Augus- 
tine, St.  John  Chrysostom,  and  St.  Gregory  Nazi- 
anzen,  two  Latin  and  two  Greek  doctors.\ 

The  magnificent  mosaics,  tombs,  paintings,  fres- 
coes, etc.  are  of  great  value.  The  chapel  where 
the  clergy  officiate,  and  that  where  the  Blessed 
Sacrament  is  kept,  tire  large  churches  by  them- 
selves, and  immensely  rich  in  valuable  decora- 
tions. While  I  was  gazing  at  that  wonderful  and 
majestic  dome,  a  miracle  of  human  skill,  a  colos- 
sal structure  of  417  feet  in  circumference,  eleva- 
ted to  the  very  top  of  the  church,  and  resting  up- 
on four  huge  pillars,  I  perceived  round  its  base, 
in  letters  of  gold,  which  can  be  distinctly  read  at 


BASILICA    OF   ST.  PAUL.  305 

such  a  great  height,  the  following  inscription  : 
"  Tu  es  Petrus  et  super  Jiancpetram  cedificabo  Ecdes- 
iam  meam  et  portce  inferi  non  prcevalebunt  adver- 
sus  earn"  (Thou  art  Peter,  and  upon  this  rock  I 
will  build  My  Church,  and  the  gates  of  hell  shall 
not  prevail  against  it).\ 

\Next  day,  after  Mass,  on  the  tomb  of  the  Apos- 
tles, I  visited  Cardinal  Alexander  Barnabo,  Pre- 
fect of  the  Propaganda.  He  received  me  as  a 
father  receives  his  son  ;  he  embraced  me,  and  bade 
me  be  seated  by  him,  and  I  had  a  long  conversa- 
tion with  him.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  visiting  him 
very  often  during  my  stay  in  Rome.  He  is  an 
intelligent,  well-educated,  learned  and  pious  gen- 
tleman ;  amiable  in  his  conversation,  winning, 
without  affectation  or  ostentation,  and  so  simple 
and  humble  that  I  must  confess  to  have  seldom 
met  with  such  a  personage,  occupying  so  a  high 
position  ;  in  a  few  words  he  is  a  holy  man,  a  learn- 
ed scholar,  a  zealous  and  wise  cardinal.  I  pre- 
sented to  him  some  of  my  Indian  books,  of  which, 
not  having  sufficient  copies,  I  promised  to  send  a 
few  more.\ 

On  this  day  I  had  determined  to  visit  the  Bas- 
ilica of  St.  Paul,  but  I  was  obliged  to  give  up  the 
idea  because  the  French  troops  had  taken  pos- 
session of  it,  and  allowed  no  one  to  approach  it. 
It  is  the  site  on  which  the  Apostle  St.  Paul  was 
buried  ;  it  is  in  an  unhealthy  situation,  and  four 
miles  out  of  the  city.  The  first  church  was  erec- 
ted by  Constantine,  the  Great,  at  the  request  of 
Pope  Sylvester.  The  Emperor  Theodosius  re- 


306  ROME. 

built  it,  but  it  was  completed  and  adorned  by  the 
Popes.  It  was  burnt  in  one  night  on  July  15th, 
1823,  by  a  fire  caused  by  the  carelessness  of  a 
'workman  who  was  repairing  the  roof.  This  Bas- 
ilica has  been  rebuilt  T  saw,  and  ascended  on 
my  knees,  the  ScalaSancta,  whose  steps  are  those 
by  which  Our  Saviour  descended  from  the  Pra3- 
torium  of  Pilate  to  be  crucified.\ 

Stains  of  blood  are  yet  visible  through  the  case 
of  wood  which  covers  them.  They  were  brought 
from  Jerusalem,  and  I  saw  the  place,  in  the  house 
of  Pilate,  at  Jerusalem,  from  which  they  were  re- 
moved, and  brought  to  Eome.  I  measured  the 
length  of  the  steps,  and  they  exactly  correspond 
to  the  length  of  the  sockets  from  which  they  were 
displaced.  I  visited  the  Basilica  of  St.  John 
Lateran,  built  by  Constantine  the  Great ;  it  is  the 
parochial  church  of  the  Popes,  where  their  coro- 
nations take  place  ;  hence  it  takes  precedence  of 
all  other  churches,  and  is  called  "  Omnium  urbis 
et  orbis  Ecdesiarum  mater  et  caput."  ("  the  head 
and  mother  of  all  churches  of  the  city  and  of  the 
world.")  It  contains  several  pillars  of  granite, 
verde  antique,  and  the  Twelve  Apostles  in  marble, 
life-size,  statues  by  Eusconi  and  Lecros.  In  this 
venerable  Basilica  five  (Ecumenical  Councils  have 
been  celebrated  ;  the  first  in  1123,  to  end  the 
quarrels  about  the  Investitures,  and  for  the  Cru- 
sades ;  the  second  in  1139,  for  the  reunion  of  the 
Greeks,  and  against  the  errors  of  the  Albigenses  ; 
the  third  in  1179,  about  discipline,  and  against 
the  errors  of  the  times  ;  the  fourth  in  1215,  against 


CARDINAL    BARN  A  BO.  307 

the  same  errors;  the  fifth  in  1511,  against  the 
Council  of  Pisa.  In  the  afternoon  I  visited  the 
church  of  St.  Maria  Maggiore,  the  nave  of  which 
is  supported  by  forty  Ionic  pillars  of  Grecian 
marble  taken  from  a  temple  of  Juno  Lucina.  The 
High  Altar  was  an  antique  porphyry  sarcophagus  ,; 
the  ceiling  was  gilded  with  the  finest  gold  brought 
from  Peru.  The  richness  of  marble  monuments, 
mosaics,  frescoes,  etc.>  in  this  Basilica  is  grand 
and  interesting.  I  saw  the  manger  in  which  the 
infant  Jesus  was  laid  ;  it  has  been  conveyed  here 
from  Bethlehem.\ 

I  was  invited  to  say  Mass  in  the  chapel 
of  St.  Ignatius,  once  his  room,  where  he  died. 
I  saw  some  very  valuable  relics  ;  amongst  oth- 
ers were  the  umbrella  used  by  St.  Francis 
Xavier  in  Japan,  and  his  blood  in  a  phial.  I  did 
not  learn  how  they  got  that  blood.  In  one  of  my 
visits  to  the  Cardinal  Barnabo,  I  mentioned  my 
desire  of  seeing  his  Holiness.  He  told  me  that 
the  Pope  had  heard  of  my  arrival  in  Borne. 
Through  the  kindness  of  his  Eminence  I  obtained 
permission  to  have  a  private  audience  with  His 
Holiness.  I  was  to  be  introduced  at  11  A.  M., 
and  immediately  after  me  the  King  and  Queen  of 
Naples  were  to  have  an  audience.  It  happened, 
however,  that  on  that  day  the  French  General  and 
staff  were  to  be  presented  to  the  Pope  in  the 
room  appointed  for  such  ceremonies  ;  hence  we 
were  delayed  over  one  hour.  We  waited  in  the 
anticamera,  because  our  audience  was  to  take  place 
in  the  private  room  of  his  Holiness.\ 


308  ROME. 

This  afforded  me  the  pleasure  of  observing  Pius 
IX.  passing  before  me  through  the  anticamera, 
while  going  to  see  the  French  officers  ;  and  then 
returning  again  to  his  private  room.\ 

He  was  dressed  in  a  white  cassock,  accompanied 
by  his  attendant  Cardinals,  Monsignores,  Gruardia 
Nobile  (guard  of  Nobles)  and  Swiss  guard,  etc.  As  I 
was  very  close  to  him  I  knelt ;  he  looked  at  me, 
and  with  a  smile,  accompanied  by  an  inclination 
of  his  head,  he  gave  me  his  blessing.  What  a 
superhuman  countenance !  Nothing  worldly  in  his 
demeanor ! !  That  affectation,  endeavoring  to 
cover  an  interior  pride,  and  force  an  appearance 
of  being  something  which  does  not  exist,  and 
which  betrays  emptiness,  selfishness,  low  breeding, 
and  a  position  in  society  above  their  condition, 
as  we  observe  continually  amongst  so  many  little 
men  occupying  high  places  or  positions,  was  not 
to  be  found  in  that  glorious  personage.  Holiness, 
piety,  benevolence,  wisdom,  intelligence,  and 
peace  of  mind,  were  marked  in  his  face  ;  his  eyes 
penetrating  and  full  of  expression,  but  betraying 
no  shrewdness  or  macchiavellism,  and  his  tall 
stature  bearing  no  marks  of  old  age  or  of  stoop- 
ing ;  his  steps  natural,  easy  and  dignified,  made 
on  me  a  great  impression  of  the  glorious  Pius  IX.\ 

At  the  Vatican,  Monsignor  Pacca  requested  me 
to  allow  the  King  and  Queen  of  Naples  to  enter 
before  me,  which  I  granted,  not  only  with  great 
pleasure,  but  I  felt  it  to  be  my  duty  not  to  make 
their  Majesties  wait  for  me.  I  introduced 
myself  to  them  in  the  Yankee  fashion.  I  was  not 


KING    OF   NAPLES.  309 

personally  acquainted  with  them,  but  I  was  with 
Ferdinand  II.  his  father,  the  Queen,  the  Hegina 
Madre,  the  prince  of  Calabria,  and  his  other  broth- 
er, who  died,  and  at  whose  funeral  I  was  present, 
and  I  remember  the  following  curious  circum- 
stance which  happened  on  that  occasion.\ 

He  had  led  a  very  dissipated  life,  which  was 
the  cause  of  his  death ;  yet  he  died  repentant 
and  made  a  good  death.  In  the  funeral  procession 
at  which  there,  was  an  immense  display  of  royal 
grandeur,  the  streets  were  lined  with  thousands 
of  troops,  the  bands  performed  funeral  marches, 
and  all  the  confraternities  and  religious  commu- 
nities were  present.  At  the  end  of  the  proces- 
sion came  the  royal  clergy,  whose  canons,  and 
dignitaries,  robed  in  their  magnificent  vestments, 
holding  lighted  torches  and  singing  psalms,  formed 
two  lines  preceding  the  royal  corpse,  which  was  cov- 
ered by  a  magnificent  gold  embroidered  velvet  cov- 
er. A  large  hog  intruded  itself  between  the  two 
lines  of  the  canons  before  the  corpse,  and  walked 
with  them  in  the  procession.  The  clergy,  feeling 
ashamed  to  chase  it,  left  it  undisturbed  till  it  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  the  people,  who  made  re- 
marks about  it.  Some  soldiers  broke  the  ranks 
and  tried  to  hunt  it  out,  but  to  no  purpose  ;  the 
hog,  running  up  and  down,  would  not  leave  the 
procession  till  after  a  long  time  ;  at  last  it  disap- 
peared. Whose  hog  it  was,  how  it  got  there,  we 
could  never  learn.  In  Naples  there  are  no  hogs, 
cows,  poultry,  etc.,  running  through  the  streets. 
I  wish  to  make  a  few  remarks  in  regard  to  the 
King  of  Naples,  Ferdinand  II.,  who  has  been  much 


310  ROME. 

abused  and  slandered,  especially  by  Protestants 
and  infidels,  and  revolutionary  newspapers.  I 
was  well  acquainted  with  him,  and  that  personal- 
ly. He  was  just,  benevolent,  charitable,  religious, 
and  the  father  of  his  people,  no  matter  what  has 
been  said  and  written  against  him.  They  are  all 
slanders  and  lies.  He  loved  the  Neapolitan  peo- 
ple, and  the  people  loved  him  ;  and  many  would 
do  anything  to  restore  the  Bourbon  family  to  the 
throne  of  Naples.  Innumerable  monuments  of 
his  piety,  religion,  munificence,  and  benevolence 
throughout  the  kingdom,  are  sufficient  proof  of 
what  1  have  asserted.x 

Three  weeks  before  my  arrival  in  Rome,  the 
King  of  Naples,  and  his  Queen,  presented  them- 
selves to  the  Pope,  asking  leave  to  quit  Rome  and 
go  to  Austria,  saying  that  he  was  sure  that  a  rev- 
olution would  break  out  in  Rome  in  a  few  days. 

"The  people,"  said  he,  '-will  respect  the  per- 
son of  your  Holiness,  but  I  shall  fall  a  victim.7'/ 

"Be  not  afraid,"  replied  the  Pope,  "in  a  few 
days  there  will  be  assistance  sent  to  us  and  there 
will  be  no  more  danger." 

The  King  did  not  feel  satisfied,  and  the  Pope 
offered  to  him  and  his  family  an  apartment  in  the 
Vatican,  to  remain  there  till  the  danger  was  over, 
and  so  the  King  and  Queen  of  Naples,  and  their 
family,  dwelt  in  the  Vatican  for  one  week.x 

Pius  IX.  remembered  that  when  an  exile  from 
Rome  he  accepted  an  asylum  in  Gaeta  from  the 
King  of  Naples,  the  father  of  the  present  king. 
It  was  after  midnight  when  a  cardinal,  in  disguise, 


KING    OF   NAPLES.  311 

arrived  in  Naples,  whither  he  had  been  sent  by 
the  Pope.  He  drove  to  the  king's  palace,  and 
asked  an  audience  with  the  king  at  that  hour, 
as  he  had  a  very  important  matter  to  communi- 
cate. The  audience  was  granted,  and  he  made 
the  king  acquainted  with  the  fact  that  the  Pope 
was  in  Gaeta.x 

"  Up !"  he  cried  to  the  Queen,  in  that  good  na- 
ture and  faith  of  his  noble  heart,  "up!  prepare 
linen  and  everything  necessary  for  the  Pope  ;  he 
is  in  Gaeta,  and  he  must  be  with  us." 

The  Queen  remarked  that  everything  would  be 
ready  for  the  morning. 

"Morning  !"  said  he,  "it  must  be  ready  to- 
night !" 

"  But,"  she  replied,  "  the  Major-domo,  the  wait- 
ing damiceUe,  must  be  asleep." 

"  No  sleep  to-night !  The  Pope  is  in  Gaeta, 
and  nobody  must  sleep  till  we  are  there." 

Early  in  the  morning  the  king,  queen,  and  oth- 
er noblemen  were  in  Gaeta  to  welcome  the  Pope. 
The  Pope,  under  an  assumed  name,  had  taken 
up  his  residence  in  the  palace  of  the  governor  in 
Gaeta.  When  the  king  arrived  thither  he  asked 
the  governor, — 

"Where  is  the  Pope?" 

"  The  Pope,"  replied  the  governor,  "I  do  not 
know  ;  in  Rome." 

"  Gran  balordo,  "  (great  blockhead,)  exclaimed 
the  king  ;  "he is  here."\ 

The  king  and  queen  met  him,  kissed  his  feet, 
welcomed  him,  and  asked  him  to  accept  either  his 


312  ROME. 

palace  in  Naples,  or  that  of  Portici,  or  Caserta. 
The  Pope  preferred  to  remain  in  Graeta,  and  the 
king  gave  him  the  disposition  of  the  entire  city  of 
Graeta.\ 

This  is  that  King  of  Naples  so  much  abused  by 
bigoted  and  ignorant  strangers.  I  can  testify  that 
nearly  all  the  Neapolitans  are  mourning  after  him, 
and  the  government  of  Victor  Emmanuel  is  aware 
of  it.  The  Bishop  of  Gallipolis  related  to  me  that 
during  my  stay  in  this  city  his  palace  had  been 
entered  and  searched  by  the  police  without  any 
notice.  They  were  looking  after  correspondence 
between  him,  or  his  people,  and  the  ex-king  of 
Naples  ;  but  as  there  was  none,  none  was  found. 
The  good  bishop  applied  to  the  proper  authorities 
for  a  redress  of  this  insult  and  violation  of  right, 
but  to  no  purpose.  This  is  freedom  under  the 
Italian  government !  !  \ 

He  was  the  father  of  his  people,  the  friend  of 
the  poor,  the  supporter  of  religion,  the  comforter 
of  the  afflicted  ;  but  the  victim  of  secret  societies, 
which  he  detested  and  tried  to  keep  at  a  distance 
from  his  people.  He  was  loved  by  his  subjects. 
Now  his  son  is  an  exile  from  Naples,  and  has  an 
asylum  in  Eome.  How  wonderful  are  the  ways 
of  G-od  !  How  changeable  tbe  circumstances  of  this 
world  l\ 

Monsignor  Pacca,  was  the  maggior-domo  of  the 
Pope,  a  prelate  of  distinction  and  intelligence,  and 
nephew  of  the  great  Cardinal  Pacca,  who  accom- 
panied Pope  Pius  VII.  to  prison  in  France.  As 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  personally  acquainted 
with  that  cardinal,  I  felt  happy  to  see  his  nephew, 


POPE  PIUS  ix.  313 

with  whom  I  had  several  conversations,  and  at 
the  salle  cP attendance,  I  showed  him  some  of  my 
Indian  books,  and  the  Abnaki  history,  which  I 
was  to  present  to  His  Holiness.  He  exhibited  them 
to  all  the  cardinals,  prelates,  and  attendants,  to 
whom  I  was  requested  to  explain  them  ;  they 
were  much  pleased,  and  some  of  the  books  were 
well  used  up  before  I  had  the  honor  to  present 
them  to  the  Pope.v 

Here  I  admired  the  benevolence,  easiness  and 
piety  in  the  cardinals,  prelates,  nobles  and  attend- 
ants in  the  household  of  the  Pope.  I  stopped  at 
the  Vatican  and  conversed  with  them  for  more 
than  two  hours,  and  I  found  nothing  of  that 
worldliness,  ostentation  and  pretension  which  I 
found  in  some  petty  persons  in  other  places.  And 
how  could  they  be  otherwise,  having  continually 
before  their  eyes  Pius  IX.!  He  had  infused  into 
them  his  simplicity,  dignity,  holiness  and  vener- 
able deportment.  How  true  is  the  language  of 
the  poet :  "  Hegis  ad  exemplum,  totus  componitur 
orbis"  (Horace.)  "  All  people  are  formed  accord- 
ing to  the  example  set  them  by  the  king  ;"  that  is 
by  their  superiors.x 

I  was  ushered  into  the  presence  of  His  Holi- 
ness in  his  private  room  by  Monsignor  Pacca. 
The  Pope  hardly  allowed  me  to  make  the  usual 
genuflexions.  He  did  not  let  me  kiss  his  foot.  I 
was  not  worthy  to  kiss  the  foot  of  the  Yicar  of 
Christ  ;  but  I  kissed  the  ground  and  the  thought  of 
being  in  the  presence  of  him  who  was  the  vicege- 
rent of  Christ  on  earth,  of  him  who  had  received 
the  command  to  feed  me,  made  me  so  nervous 


314  ROME. 

and  confused,  that  I  had  no  courage  to  rise  from 
my  knees.  I  wanted  to  talk  to  him  in  that  posi- 
tion but  he  did  not  allow  it,  but  bade  me  stand 
before  him  face  to  face.  I  offered  to  him  my  books 
which  he  accepted  with  pleasure.  I  was  surprised 
to  see  him  so  calm  and  tranquil  while  Rome  was 
under  martial  law,  invaded  by  the  Garibaldians, 
full  of  French  troops,  and  rumors  of  battles, 
prisoners,  explosions  of  mines,  and  the  reign  of 
terror  existing  in  the  Pontifical  States,  and  with- 
in the  walls  of  Rome  ;  yet  His  Holiness  was 
calm!  The  terrified  Romans  were  all  shut  up, 
though  several  had  offered  themselves  to  the 
police  to  patrol  the  city  and  assist  them  to 
preserve  order.  The  bold  revolutionists  were 
threatening  to  blow  up  the  city  which  was  ruined 
at  several  places.  The  French  themselves  were 
afraid  to  pass  through  some  localities  fearing  an 
explosion.  The  quarters  of  the  Zouaves  had 
been  blown  up  by  a  mine  a  few  days  before  and 
a  number  of  them  were  killed  ;  yet  the  Pope 
was  calm,  and  not  only  entertained  no  fear,  but 
was  pleasant  and  tranquil,  sitting  at  his  desk  with 
papers  ;  looking  at  my  books,  attempting  to  read 
them,  laughing  at  those  big  long  words,  and  ques- 
tioning me  about  the  Indians.  The  calmness  of  the 
Pope  surprised  me.  Again  he  opened  my  books 
and  commenced  to  read  the  Indian  language :  he 
asked  me  to  read  for  him.  and  after  reading  a  few 
lines  he  smiled  and  said,  "  Linguam,  quam  non 
noveram,  audivi}1  ("  I  heard  the  language,  that  I 
knew  not.")  He  inquired  about  my  Missions 
among  the  Indians,  he  asked  of  my  visit  to  my 


THE    COLISEUM.  315 

family,  and  my  pilgrimage  to  the  Holy  Land  and 
gave  his  Papal  benediction  to  me,  to  every  mem- 
ber of  my  family  in  Italy,  and  to  all  my  missions. 
He  expressed  his  desire  to  see  me  on  my  return 
to  America.  I  remarked  that  I  would  follow 
another  route.  "  Will  you  not  return  to  Eome 
again  before  going  to  America  ?"  the  Holy  Father 
said,  with  surprise.  I  replied,  "  If  your  Holiness 
wishes  I  shall  return,  but  if  there  is  any  com- 
mand for  me,  Cardinal  Barnabo  has  my  direc- 
tions." "That  will  do,"  said  the  Pope.  I  at- 
tempted again  to  kiss  his  foot,  and  making  the 
usual  genuflexions  I  retired. \ 

This  is  the  Yicar  of  Our  Lord,  the  Head  of  the 
Church  on  earth,  to  whom  all  cardinals,  patriarchs, 
bishops  and  priests  of  the  world  owe  obedience. 
He  is  their  superior,  from  him  they  receive  their 
jurisdiction.  He  is  the  pillar  of  truth.  To  him 
alone  was  given  the  commission  to  feed  his  sheep 
and  lambs,  bishops  and  laymen.  To  him  alone 
were  given  the  keys  of  the  Kingdom  of  Heaven 
and  for  him  alone  Christ  prayed  that  his  faith 
might  never  fail.\ 

By  particular  permission.  I  visited  the  library 
of  the  Vatican,  the  Sistine  Chapel,  the  Loggie  of 
Eaphael,  the  museum,  statues  of  the  Vatican,  etc. 
I  visited  also  the  Pantheon,  now  called  the 
Rotunda,  the  Temple  of  Vesta,  the  Forum,  the 
Palace  Borghese,  Monte  Cavallo,  etc.  The  Colis- 
eum, guarded  by  a  number  of  French  soldiers, 
is  a  grand  affair  ;  it  was  capable  of  containing 
87,000  spectators  and  standing  room  for  20,000 


316  ROME. 

more.  I  venerated  that  spot  imbued  with  the 
blood  of  so  many  martyrs !  I  knelt  on  that  holy 
ground,  and  while  I  was  immersed  in  profound 
meditation  on  the  many  thousands  of  Christian 
victims  devoured  by  wild  beasts,  or  compelled  to 
fight  in  order  to  amuse  a  crowd  of  cruel  and  bar- 
barous spectators,  I  considered  how  the  gates  of 
Heaven  had  been  opened  on  that  locality  to  receive 
the  souls  of  those  martyrs  who  laid  down  their 
lives  for  the  Catholic  faith  on  that  spot.  I  was 
notified  by  a  guard  that  the  sun  had  set  and  that 
I  was  no  longer  allowed  to  remain  there  on  account 
of  the  martial  law.\ 

I  hurried  into  the  city.  In  the  evening  I  went 
to  the  Trinlta  de  Pellegrini  to  see  my  friend  Rev. 
Christian  Kauder,  a  German  by  birth,  who  had 
labored  many  years  among  the  Micmac  Indians  of 
Nova  Scotia.  I  learned  from  Cardinal  Barnabo 
that  he  was  in  Rome  :  he  commissioned  me  to 
see  whether  I  could  persuade  him  to  return 
amongst  the  Indians  to  whom  he  has  done  an 
immensity  of  good.  How  anxious  and  earnest  is 
that  illustrious  and  eminent  prelate  about  the 
poor  Indian  !  What  care  and  interest  he  has  for 
the  missionaries  laboring  among  them !  I  saw 
Father  Kauder  ;  how  pleased  he  was  to  see  me  in 
Rome.  We  talked  together  for  a  long  time  about 
our  Indians  and  Missions.  He  told  me  that  being 
about  sixty-two  years  of  age  and  in  bad  health, 
he  did  not  feel  able  to  encounter  the  snow  storms 
of  Nova  Scotia,  nor  could  he  stand  the  hard,  long 
and  severe  winters  of  the  North.  He  would  re- 


FATHER   KAUDER.  317 

turn  in  the  spring  if  an  assistant  were  given  to 
him,  otherwise  he  would  retire  to  Strasbourg 
where  the  bishop  would  give  him  a  place.  He 
had  spent  for  the  Indians  every  cent  he  had  re- 
ceived ;  now  he  was  penniless  in  Rome,  but  Car- 
dinal Barnabo  and  two  other  cardinals  had  taken 
every  care  of  him.  They  had  provided  him  with 
money  and  a  lodging  in  the  Trinita  dd  Pellegrini. 
How  hard  is  the  condition  of  missionaries  in 
America  !  After  having  spent  their  best  years, 
their  health,  and  every  cent,  for  their  missions  and 
church,  in  old  age  and  sickness  they  find  them- 
selves homeless  and  penniless,  at  the  mercy  of 
the  providence  of  God.\ 

Father  Kauder  related  to  me  that  two  days  after 
the  explosion  at  the  Zouave  quarters  he  had  been 
arrested  while  passing  by  that  place.  He  was  in 
the  habit  of  passing  through  that  locality  and 
every  stranger  and  curious  looking  person  was 
watched  by  the  police.  His  personal  attire  excited 
the  attention  of  the  Zouaves.  The  explosion  took 
place  just  half  an  hour  after  he  had  passed  by  that 
quarter.  He  was  taken  on  suspicion.  Two  days 
after  passing  again  that  way  he  was  arrested  and 
many  questions  asked.  He  said  that  he  was  a 
missionary  from  America,  a  Catholic  Priest ;  but 
this  answer  instead  of  clearing  him  complicated  his 
case.  They  said  that  priests  did  not  wear  that 
kind  of  dress,  and  did  not  wear  the  beard ;  he 
was  detained  till  he  referred  to  Cardinal  Barnab6 
and  to  another  one.  When  he  was  released  they 
apologized,  saying,  that  several  Garibaldians  had 
20 


318  EOME. 

dressed  themselves  like  priests  and  monks,  and 
committed  murders  and  other  outrages,  and  that 
several  Zouaves  had  been  assassinated  by  persons 
who  were  disguised  as  priests  and  monks.  \ 

I  spent  many  hours  on  the  Campidoglio  but  every 
department  was  shut  up.  There  were  few  strangers 
in  Rome,  hence  the  city  was  dull,  but  the  French 
troops  kept  it  very  lively.  I  visited  several  stores 
but  the  articles  they  had,  were  all  from  Naples.  I 
was  told  that  during  the  Centenarium  of  St.  Peter, 
thousands  and  thousands  of  dollars  entered  Rome, 
but  the  most  of  it  went  to  France  and  Switzer- 
land to  pay  for  articles  imported.  The  Romans 
cheat  as  much  as  the  Yankees.  I  purchased 
many  medals  of  Pius  IX.  and  I  was  assured  that 
they  were  pure  silver  ;  but  I  found  afterwards 
that  they  were  brass  washed  with  silver  ;  perhaps 
they  had  been  deceived  themselves.  These  articles 
could  be  manufactured  in  Rome,  but  the  Romans 
live  by  the  strangers  who  visit  the  city,  and  do  not 
apply  themselves  to  commerce  and  arts  ;  for  this 
reason  the  business  was  quite  dull,  and  the  people 
complained  very  much  about  hard  times. \ 

Rome  has  always  been  and  is  now  the  seat  of 
learning,  fine  arts,  music  and  architecture.  The 
great  men  of  Rome  are  too  numerous  to  mention. 
Rome  has  always  been  the  capital  of  the  world, 
and  it  will  always  be  to  the  end  of  time.  The 
enemies  of  Rome  (that  is  of  the  Christian  Religion,) 
may  promulgate  prophesies  to  suit  the  ears  of 
those  who  like  to  be  deceived.  Rome  is  the  Etern- 
al City !  \ 


POZZUOLI.  319 

The  railway  to  Naples  having  been  repaired,  I 
had  a  Konian  vise  put  on  my  passport,  for  which  I 
paid  five  lire,  and  returned  to  Naples,  and  found 
my  sister  and  brother  at  the  Hotel  di  Milano.  We 
took  a  carriage  and  returned  to  Giugliano. 

We  made  an  excursion  to  Pozzuoli  and  its  antiq- 
uities. After  Mass  we  started  in  two  carriages  ; 
the  weather  at  first  threatened  rain,  but  it  soon 
cleared  up,  and  the  sun  shone  out  in  all  its  full 
majesty.  The  ride  was  pleasant,  amongst  the  rains 
of  Roman  buildings,  vineyards,  and  fine  villas. 
We  arrived  at  Pozzuoli,  the  ancient  Puteoli,  a 
city  famous  in  the  annals  of  Rome. 

We  saw  the  mole  built  by  the  Emperor  Caligu- 
la, when  he  ordered  a  chain  to  be  cast  into  the  sea 
to  enslave  it.\ 

This  is  the  place  where  St.  Paul  landed  after  his 
shipwreck  on  the  island  of  Malta.  We  visited  the 
amphitheatre,  which  is  the  largest  and  best  pre- 
served in  existence,  It  is  480  by  380  feet.  We 
went  on  the  arena  where  the  Emperor  Nero  fought. 
Under  this  amphitheatre  we  visited  the  prisons  in 
which  St.  Januarius  had  been  confined.  What  a 
sight !  to  see  the  well-preserved  dens  of  lions,  ti- 
gers, panthers,  and  other  wild  animals.  We  fan- 
cied ourselves  gazing  at  those  ferocious  beasts 
grinding  the  bones  of  the  martyrs,  tearing  their 
limbs,  and  sucking  their  blood !  We  imagined 
we  heard  their  terrific  roar,  which  amused  thous- 
ands of  spectators  and  made  the  eyes  of  Chris- 
tians turn  toward  heaven.  The  different  stories 
of  corridors  were  intact ;  the  cells  of  gladia- 


320  RETURN   TO   NAPLES. 

tors,  the  rooms  of  officers,  of  the  keepers  of  the 
animals  were  also  perfect.  We  visited  the  spot 
where  St.  Januarius  suffered  martyrdom,  and  saw 
the  stone  on  which  he  was  beheaded  ;  it  is  yet 
sprinkled  with  blood,  which  becomes  liquid  at  the 
same  moment  that  the  blood  of  the  martyr  be- 
comes liquid  in  the  city  of  Naples. \ 

At  this  place  we  took  a  guide,  and  provided  our- 
selves with  torches.  We  visited  the  Temple  of  the 
Nymphs,  and  that  of  Neptune  ;  we  saw  the  ruins 
of  the  famous  villa  of  Cicero,  where  he  composed 
his  immortal  Academics,  and  where  the  Emperor 
Adrian  died  ;  it  is  called  now  the  school  of  Cicero. 
Many  of  the  great  men  of  antiquity  studied  in 
these  localities  where  they  had  charming  villas. 
We  rode  to  Gumce,,  of  which  city  nothing  remains 
except  the  grand,  massive  gate  called  now  Porta 
Felice,  some  walls,  and  one  street.  This  city  was 
built  about  1030  years,  B.  0.,  by  Chalcis  of  Eu- 
bcea,  and  peopled  by  Asiatic  Cuinaeans,  and  by 
Phocians,  the  oldest  colony  of  the  Greeks  in  It- 
aly. The  Cumaeans  founded  Naples  and  Messina 
(Zancle,)  in  Sicily,  420,  B.  C.  Cumae  was  taken 
by  the  Campanians,  then  by  the  Romans,  and 
destroyed  by  them  in  1207,  A.  D.\ 

We  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  hill  where  that 
opulent  and  proud  city  once  stood,  and  enjoy- 
ed the  enchanting  view  of  the  country  and  the 
sea.  The  place  where  ^Eneas  landed,  the  temple 
of  Apollo,  the  light-house  of  Daedalus,  were  all  be- 
fore our  eyes.  Excavations  in  Cumae  have  made 
some  very  important  discoveries  of  three  distinct 


LAKE   FUSARO.  321 

races.  Many  tombs  have  been  found  containing, 
not  only  skeletons  but  arms,  jewels,  pictures,  va- 
ses, and  other  utensils.  They  have  three  strata 
of  tombs.  The  uppermost  stratum  contains  the 
narrow  graves  of  the  Romans.  The  tombs  of  the 
early  Greek  settlers  are  found  in  the  stratum  be- 
neath that  of  the  Romans,  and  deeper  still,  some 
fifty  feet  below  the  surface,  the  original  sepulchres 
of  an  unknown  race,  which  must  be  the  Italian 
inhabitants  before  the  Greek  colonies.\ 

The  vetturinos  notified  us  of  the  custom  of. 
tasting  the  famous  Cumasan  wine ;  it  was  brought 
and  we  found  it  superb  ;  and  the  drivers,  smack- 
ing their  lips,  said  :  "  Very  good."  We  passed 
the  ancient  Liternum,  the  residence  and  burial- 
place  of  Scipio  Africanus.  We  saw  the  half-ex- 
tinct volcano  of  Solfatara,  (Forum  Yulcani,  Cainpi 
Phlegraei,)  from  which  constantly  issues  a  column  of 
smoke.  Brimstone  can  be  seen  in  every  crevice, 
and  the  suffocating  air  can  be  felt  for  some  distance.\ 

We  came  in  sight  of  Monte  Nuovo,  a  mountain 
vomited  by  a  volcano  in  one  night,  which  swallowed 
up  at  the  same  time  the  entire  village  of  Tripergole 
on  the  shore.  We  saw  Lake  Fusaro,  famous  for  its 
oysters,  but  which  are  now  all  destroyed  ;  and  it 
was  the  Acherusia  or  Acheron  of  the  ancients, 
(Acherusia  Palus  of  Yirgil,)  from  which  lake,  ac- 
cording to  the  poets,  the  souls  of  the  just  were  fer- 
ried by  Charon,  stationed  on  this  lake,  to  the  Ely- 
sian  Fields,  by  paying  the  toll.  The  Elysian  Fields 
are,  to  this  day,  delicious  vineyards  and  gardens, 
always  verdant.  The  More  Morto  (Dead  Sea),  lies 


322  RETURN   TO    NAPLES. 

a  little  beyond  the  Acheron.  It  is  the  ancient 
Stygian  Pool  or  lake.  In  the  same  night  that 
Monte  Nuovo  was  vomited  by  a  volcano,  the 
neighboring  Lucrine  lake,  whose  oysters  and  fish 
were  the  delight  of  the  ancient  gourmands,  was 
almost  entirely  drained,  and  reduced  to  a  small 
pondA 

Through  a  recently-discovered  tunnel,  longer 
than  the  Grotto  of  Posilipo,  our  guides  preceding 
us  with  lighted  torches,  we  reached  the  shores  of 
the  Lake  of  Avernus,  the  Hell  of  the  Poets. 
This  lake  is  of  an  oval  form,  four  miles  in  circum- 
ference, and  is  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano. 
Its  pestilential  waters  have  lost  the  poisonous  mi- 
asmas on  account  of  a  canal,  cut  by  the  Emperor 
Agrippa,  connecting  this  pool  with  the  lake,  or 
Pool  Lucrino.  We  approached  the  Grotto  of  the 
Sibyl,  who  had  her  residence  here,  but  her  home  was 
in  Cumae  of  Asia.  We  found  a  number  of  men  ready 
to  take  us  on  their  shoulders,  and  so  we  entered 
:-he  Grotto  and  formed  a  long  procession,  preced- 
ed and  accompanied  with  torches.  They  and  the 
men  who  carried  us  on  their  shoulders,  were  up 
to  their  knees  in  water.  We  were  landed  in  a 
small-sized  chamber  on  a  stone  seat.  These  were 
the  Sibyl's  baths  ;  this  chamber  had  several  feet 
of  water  in  it.  Here  I  heard  my  brother  quarrel- 
ing with  the  man  who  was  to  take  him  on  his 
shoulders  ;  he  was  afraid,  and  refused  to  come  ; 
but  I  shouted  to  him  and  he  allowed  himself  to  be 
carried  on  the  shoulders  of  Charon.  From  this 
we  entered  another  chamber,  which  is  a  duplicate 


CENTO    CAMERELLE.  3^3 

of  this  Grotto  ;  here  ^Eneas,  conducted  by  the 
Sibyl,  offered  sacrifices  to  the  infernal  gods.  'We 
admired  the  fine  frescoes  of  this  second  Grotto. 
Vines  with  grapes  and  other  ornaments  were  in  a 
good  state  of  preservation,  although  there  is  no  light. 
We  found  the  place  unpleasant  on  account  of  soot 
and  foul  air.  We  were  shown  a  large  stairway 
by  which  the  Sibyl  descended  from  her  abode. 
This  abode  has  not  yet  been  dug  up  ;  it  is  inside 
of  this  Grotto,  and  ascends  to  a  considerable 
height.x 

We  paid  the  local  guides,  and  went  to  the  Steam- 
Baths  of  Nero  (called  Stufe  di  Nerone^)  They  con- 
sist of  several  corridors  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  ter- 
minating in  a  fountain  of  boiling  water.  We  could 
not  venture  to  go  to  see  this  hot  spring  on  account 
of  the  great  heat  and  steam  which  issue  from  the 
boiling  water.  It  was  too  suffocating.  The  guide 
went  to  the  spring  and  drew  a  bucket  of  water,  in 
which  he  cooked  some  eggs,  which  we  eat.  There 
is  a  room  for  sick  persons,  who  have  to  make  use 
of  these  hot  baths.\ 

Next  we  proceeded  to  Baja  ;  where,  ordering  a 
dinner  to  be  ready  in  two  or  three  hours,  we 
started  for  Miseno.  We  passed  the  Castle  of 
Baja  on  the  top  of  a  hill ;  the  tomb  of  Agrippa, 
and  the  ruin  of  the  villa  of  Lucullus,  or  at  least 
the  foundations  of  it,  which  are  now  visible  under 
the  sea.  In  this  place,  the  Emperor  Nero — that 
infamous  monster  of  numberless  iniquities — that 
brute  of  which  the  earth  was  never  so  much  dis- 
graced in  supporting — plotted  the  death  of  his 


324  RETURN   TO   NAPLES. 

mother,  the  wicked  Agrippina,  who  was  murdered 
at  her  villa — Lucrino.  We  entered  one  of  the 
prisons  of  Nero,  called  the  Cento  Gamerelle  (hun- 
dred little  chambers).  They  are  a  number  of  grot- 
toes under  ground,  opening  into  each  other,  and 
forming  a  kind  of  labyrinth.  We  arrived  at  Mi- 
seno,  which  was  the  principal  naval  station  of 
the  Romans.  It  was  there  that  Pliny  died — suf- 
focated while  supported  by  two  slaves  ;  he  was 
contemplating  and  studying  the  famous  eruption 
of  Vesuvius,  that  buried  Pompeii,  Herculaneum, 
and  other  cities,  so  foul  and  sulphurous  was  the 
atmosphere.  Miseno  is  the  site  of  an  ancient  city.x 

We  visited  the  Piscina  Mirabile,  an  immense 
reservoir  constructed  by  Augustus  and  other  em- 
perors to  supply  with  water  the  fleet  stationed  at 
Miseno.  We  descended  by  a  flight  of  steps  into 
this  wonderful  cistern,  125  feet  long,  65  feet  wide, 
and  20  feet  high.  This  is  divided  into  five  corri- 
dors and  many  arcades,  supported  by  forty- eight 
huge  pilasters.  It  is  constructed  of  brick  cover- 
ed with  a  crust  formed  by  deposits  made  by 
water,  harder  than  marble.x 

We  returned  to  Baja  and  took  our  dinner.  We 
had  some  fresh  fish  from  the  sea  of  Baja,  meat, 
maccaroni,  wine  and  fruits  ;  and  the  whole  for 
the  entire  party,  including  the  vetturinos,  cost 
seventeen  francs !  Baja,  or  Saice  was  once  the 
most  lovely  and  the  most  charming  spot  that  ever 
existed  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  The  favorite 
abode  of  the  Ambubaiae  and  the  Balatrones,  was 
a  cherished  resort  of  the  wealthy  Romans  where 


BAIA.  325 


they  had  their  country-seats.  Horace  s&\&, 
in  Orbe  sinus  Bajis  prcelucet  am  enis.  "  The  abun  d- 
ant  gifts  which  nature  has  showered  over  this  soil 
made  Baja  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  on  this 
planetary  orb.  These  abundant  gifts  of  nature, 
increased  and  improved  by  the  skill  of  man,  made 
this  locality  the  residence  of  poets,  orators,  heroes 
and  emperors.  The  great  and  learned  had  their 
villas  here.  Julius  Caesar  had  a  palace  here, 
where  Marcellus  was  poisoned  by  Livia.  Here 
was  the  villa  of  Piso  where  the  conspiracy  against 
Nero  was  matured.  The  Romans  when  here 
thought  themselves  entitled  to  lay  aside  the  re- 
straint of  their  republican  hypocrisy,  and  give 
themselves  up  without  shame  to  every  kind  of 
pleasure  and  voluptuousness  ;  and  this  charming 
spot  was  brought  into  such  ill-repute  that  Pro- 
pertius  was  impatient  to  call  his  mistress  away 
from  it  ;  and  Cicero  in  his  defence  of  M.  Coelius 
thought  it  necessary  to  apologize  for  defending  a 
man  who  had  lived  at  Baja  ;  and  Martial  says, 
that  the  Roman  matrons  arrived  here  with  the 
reputation  of  Penelope  and  left  with  that  of  Helen. 
This  place  is  now  deserted,  unhealthy,  and  interest- 
ing to  the  stranger  only  for  the  ruins  of  the  old 
baths  which  are  shown  by  ignorant  and  deceitful 
Ciceroni  as  ancient  temples  ;  many  credulous 
travelers  are  grossly  imposed  upon  by  this  set 
of  rascals.  After  dinner  we  drove  to  Giugliano 
through  Naples  .\ 

We  took  our  leave  of  Giugliano  and  departed 
for  Naples  where  we  remained  some  days  at  the 


326  RETURN   TO   NAPLES. 

Hotel  di  Milano.  We  saw  the  Theatre  of  San 
Carlo  which  opened  just  at  this  time,  and  that  of 
Del  Fondo\ 

We  made  another  excursion.  We  saw  the 
tomb  of  Yirgil  situated  on  the  mountain  of 
Posilipo.  Nothing  now  remains  of  this  once  fine- 
ly ornamented  building  except  only  the  mason 
work  of  ancient  style  in  the  form  of  a  dome.  The 
Grotto  of  Posilipo  excavated  in  the  rock  is  about 
one  mile  long  and  twenty  feet  wide.  It  is  so  old 
that  it  is  mentioned  by  Strabo  and  Seneca.  Posi- 
lipo, or  Pausilippo.  is  said  to  owe  its  name  to  the 
effect  of  its  beauty  in  lulling  the  sense  of  grief 

(OTTO  T7)g  Travaeug  rr)^  AVTTJ^.)      We  drOVC  to  the  Grotto 

del  Cane,  a  famous  spring  of  azote  gas  which 
makes  a  dog  go  into  convulsions  and  die.  A 
light  becomes  extinguished  at  the  distance  of 
three  feet  from  the  surface.  In  returning  the 
vetturino  upset  the  carriage  and  every  one  of 
us  kissed  the  ground,  but  thanks  to  God  nobody 
was  hurt.\ 

The  next  day  we  took  leave  of  our  numerous 
relations  and  friends,  and  we  left  for  Gallipolis 
where  we  arrived  in  one  day  and  a  half.x 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

ITALY   AND    THE   ITALIANS. 

\JTALYhasveryjustly  been  styled  the  garden 
of  Europe.  Nature  has  showered,  in  great  abun- 
dance, its  most  precious  and  pleasant  gifts  upon 
this  land  and  its  inhabitants.  Its  cloudless  sky 
spreads  a  perpetual  brilliancy  upon  the  great 
works  of  nature  and  art,  which  are  visible  at  ev- 
ery step  on  this  favored  soil.  Excepting  a  small 
part  of  the  Campania  and  Tuscany  the  air  is  sa- 
lubrious. The  vegetable  kingdom  is  luxuriant ; 
the  soil  brings  forth,  in  abundance,  all  the  pro- 
ductions of  every  part  of  Europe.  The  fields 
yield  three  crops  in  the  year  ;  the  sheep  lamb 
twice  a  year,  as  Virgil  has  remarked  in  the  Geor- 
gics,  "  bis  fcEkmtes  oves"  There  are  fig-trees  that 
bear  fruit  twice  in  the  season  ;  and  vines  that  give 
grapes  three  times  in  one  year.  I  say  nothing  of 
oranges,  lemons,  and  lime  trees,  which  yield  a 
fresh  crop  every  three  months.  Italy  stands  in 
no  need  of  importation  except  of  a  very  few  ar- 
ticles from  the  East  Indies,  which  can  also  be 
raised  in  the  southern  part  of  the  country.  The 
necessaries  and  luxuries  of  life  are  so  abundant 
that  a  great  portion  can  be  spared  for  other  coun- 


328         ITALY  AND  THE  ITALIANS. 

tries.  Italy  has  always  occupied  the  first  place 
in  Europe  for  commerce,  as  history  tells  us,  es- 
pecially before  the  discovery  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  and  after  that,  the  discoveries  in  the  New 
World  by  a  Columbus,  a  Cabot  and  a  Vespucci, 
are  a  sufficient  proof.\ 

This  brings  me  to  an  observation  of  the  honesty 
and  justice  of  the  Italians,  who  have  never  taken 
away  from  the  proper  owners  one  foot  of  the  land 
discovered  by  them.  They  have  not  stripped  the 
poor  Americans  of  their  native  soil  as  every  oth- 
er nation  of  Europe  has  most  shamefully  done. 
Italy,  the  discoverer  of  America,  has  no  posses- 
sions in  the  New  Worldx 

On  several  occasions  I  have  heard  it  remarked 
in  this  country,  that  in  Italy  there  is  not  found 
such  an  abundance  of  meat  as  in  the  United  States. 
Upon  what  ground  such  an  assertion  was  based,  I 
am  at  a  loss  to  discover.  Perhaps  it  is  that  Ameri- 
can travelers  in  Italy  have  observed  that  the 
Italians  do  not  use  meat  at  all  times.  The  mild 
climate  of  Italy  does  not  require  much  animal 
food  ;  moreover,  the  Italians,  being  Catholic,  ab- 
stain from  meat  all  Fridays  and  Saturdays  during 
the  year,  besides  Lent,  the  Ember  days,  Advent, 
etc.  The  Italian  is  not  enslaved  to  animal  food. 
God  has  created  an  immense  variety  of  fruits,  veg- 
etables, and  fishes  to  feed  mankind.  The  Italians 
like  them  ;  they  use  meat  with  moderation  and 
want  it,  but  they  do  not  depend  on  meat  alone. 
It  may  surprise  the  reader  when  I  say  that,  in 
Italy  there  is  more  meat  than  in  America.  Where 


MANNERS    OF   THE   PEOPLE.  329 

do  you  find  fresh  meat  in  America  ?  Only  in 
large  cities.  Go  into  the  country,  in  villages, 
and  you  must  feed  on  corned  beef  and  salt  pork. 
I  have  been  for  many  years  living  in  counties 
where  only  occasionally  I  could  have  some  veal 
or  a  piece  of  lamb  ;  and  for  weeks  and  weeks  I 
never  saw  one  pound  of  fresh  meat.  1  have  been 
for  months  in  the  Aroostook  valley  in  Maine,  and 
every  day  I  was  obliged  to  shoot  some  little  birds 
for  meat.  Venison  has  already  disappeared  from 
a  large  portion  of  the  United  States.  In  Italy  you 
find  fresh  meat  in  every  small  village,  and  in  ev- 
ery part  of  the  country ;  and  the  meat  is  of  a 
superior  quality.\ 

In  Italy  the  forests  are  stocked  with  fine  timber, 
and  abundant  venison.  The  sea  and  lakes  are  full 
of  exquisite  fish  and  bivalves  of  various  kinds. 
The  mountains  contain  minerals  of  every  descrip- 
tion ;  coal  and  petroleum  have  been  found  in  large 
quantities.  Domestic  animals  of  the  most  useful 
species  are  very  common.\ 

The  inhabitants  are  genteel,  prudent,  cheerful, 
courageous,  and  full  of  animation.  The  sobriety 
of  the  Italians  is  wonderful.  They  all  make  use 
of  wine,  and  there  is  no  restriction  on  the  sale 
of  liquors  ;  the  Maine  Liquor  Law,  that  Puritanic 
relic  of  barbarism,  better  known  by  the  name 
of  Hue  laws,  does  not  prescribe  there  what  peo- 
ple shall  eat  or  drink  ;  yet  there  is  no  drunken- 
ness, and  the  people  are  all  temperate,  in  the  full 
meaning  of  that  virtue,  Temperance.  Temperance 
as  a  virtue  does  not  forbid  the  moderate  use  of 


330  ITALY    AND   THE   ITALIANS. 

liquor.  Temperance  is  not  abstinence  ;  the  form- 
er is  a  virtue,  the  latter  is  not,  especially  when 
people  must  be  abstemious  by  law,  force  or  ne- 
cessity. They  are  honest.  They  have  a  natural 
disposition  and  love  for  the  amenity  of  letters  and 
the  deepness  of  science.  Yet  with  great  reason  a 
poet  said, 

"  Oh  !  fossi  tu  piu  forte  opur  men  bella" 

This  beauty  has  made  Italy  the  target  of  foreign 
rapine,  jealousy,  envy,  and  calumny,  with  no 
power  of  self-protection.\ 

England  has  taken  away  Malta  and  wants  Sici- 
ly ;  France  has  snatched  away  Corsica,  and  lately 
Savoy  and  Nice,  and  wants  Sardinia.  Austria 
had  cut  off  Lombardy,  Venice,  the  Tyrol  and 
Trieste.  Switzerland  has  had  a  share  of  Italy. 
Princes  held  Duchies  and  only  the  three  small 
kingdoms  of  Sardinia,  Rome,  and  the  two  Sicilies 
were  left  to  the  Italians — none  large  enough  to 
demand  redress  from  foreign  insults.  When 
wronged  the  Italians  were  obliged  to  pay  the  ex- 
penses and  keep  quiet.  I  remember  when  England 
wanted  to  control  the  brimstone  trade  of  Sicily, 
the  government  of  Naples  had  found  better  terms 
with  France,  but  was  obliged  to  submit  to  Eng- 
land, who  blockaded  the  kingdom  of  Naples  with 
a  small  fleet  that  might  have  been  blown  up  by 
the  Neapolitan  navy.  Yet  the  king,  fearing  con- 
sequences, thought  it  prudent  to  pay  several  mil- 
lions to  England  to  purchase  peace.  In  the  time 
of  the  Crimean  war,  Sardinia  was  ordered  by  its 
master,  Napoleon,  to  fight  by  his  side  in  the  Cri- 


MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  331 

mea,  otherwise  he  would  whip  her.  Sardinia  was 
obliged  to  obey.  The  King  of  Naples  refused  to 
obey  and  it  cost  him  his  kingdom. \ 

Austria  was  always  chastizing  the  Italians,  and, 
when  they  dared  to  turn  their  head  to  look  at  her 
she  was  showing  them  the  whip.  The  Italians 
have  feelings  and  sense  to  see  these  things.  They 
know  that  it  was  the  interest  of  the  great  nations 
to  keep  Italy  divided  into  ten  morsels.  This  was 
the  principal  reason  why  the  Italians  desired  un- 
ion at  every  cost. 

Le  mostri  un  capo, 
Le  addita  un  brando, 
E  da  suoi  lacci 
Semprt  Italia 
Sorgerd. 

(Point  her  a  leader,  show  her  a  sword,  and  from 
her  bonds,  Italy  will  always  rise).  Strangers  ac- 
cuse the  Italians  of  being  dissembling,  vindictive, 
jealous,  and  superficial ;  but  Malte-Brun,  in  his  ge- 
ography, well  observes  that  these  accusations  are 
base  calumnies  dictated  by  envy  and  jealousy.  \ 

Are  all  Italians  dissemblers,  or  only  the  inhab- 
itants of  some  part  of  Italy  ?  Have  the  Italians 
ever  deceived  any  nation  ?  Have  they  denied 
their  public  or  private  debts  ?  Are  they  not 
punctual  in  the  payment  of  their  obligations  ?  If  a 
merchant,  banker,  or  private  gentleman  fails,  his 
reputation  is  lost  forever.  He  hardly  dares  to  ap- 
pear in  society.  Here  in  America,  after  failing,  they 
boast  and  often  become  richer  than  before.  Offi- 
cers of  the  American  government  steal  thousands 
and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  belonging  to 


332  ITALY   AND   THE   ITALIANS. 

the  people  ;  yet  they  are  not  even  called  by  their 
proper  name,  robbers — but  they  are  cloaked  with 
the  gentle  word  of  defaulters!  It  is  in  vain  that 
you  look  in  the  cities  of  Italy  for  that  number  of 
illegitimate  children  and  infanticides  which  are  so 
common  in  every  large  city  of  America  and  Eng- 
landA 

But  have  they  denied  their  loyalty  to  their 
sovereigns  ? 

Has  not  Naples  and  with  it  all  the  kingdom 
deserved  the  name  of  Napoli  la  Fedelissima? 
The  Roman  people  are  attached  to  the  Pope  and 
love  him.  The  provinces  detached  from  Rome 
hated  Austria  by  whom  they  were  in  some  respect 
ruled  ;  so  at  least  they  thought ;  if  the  people  were 
satisfied  that  Rome  governed  them  without  Aus- 
trian influence  they  would  be  under  the  Pope  yet ; 
if  they  were  not  influenced  by  the  common  Italian 
spirit  of  unity.  The  Pope  was  betrayed  by  the 
Austrians  and  not  by  the  Italians.  Austria  pre- 
tended to  hold  the  provinces  for  the  Pope  by 
keeping  the  strong-hold  of  the  Marcas.  In  time 
of  danger  when  the  Pope  stood  in  need  of  the 
assistance  of  Austria,  she  abandoned  them.  The 
Roman  government  was  not  prepared  to  send 
them  assistance  and  they  asked  to  be  annexed  to 
Italy.  When  the  troubles  of  Europe  will  be  set- 
tled, those  provinces  will  be  very  glad  to  return 
to  the  Pope,  as  they  will.  Lombardy  and  Yen- 
ice  always  hated  Austria  ;  they  did  not  belong 
to  her.  The  other  princes  shared  the  conse- 
quences of  the  fate  of  Italy.  France  and  Eng- 


MANNERS   AND   CUSTOMS.  333 

land  taking  advantage  of  the  feelings  of  the  Italians 
for  the  union  of  Italy  betrayed  the  King  of  Naples./ 

This  explains  in  part  the  course  of  the  Italians 
in  the  movements  towards  the  union.  There  are 
other  reasons  which  do  not  belong  to  my  object 
in  writing  my  travels.  This  explains  the  present 
state  of  things  in  Italy.  They  refute  the  exagge- 
rations of  evils,  the  calumnies  forged  and  spread 
in  newspapers  and  believed  by  ignorant  people. 
They  are  the  productions  of  interested  persons, 
of  selfishness  and  malice,  in  order  to  raise  pre- 
judice against  the  present  state  of  things  in  Italy. 
When  the  history  of  modern  Italy  shall  be 
allowed  to  be  written  and  published,  the  kind 
reader  will  come  to  the  knowledge  of  reasons 
which  I  at  present  do  not  mention'A 

Modern  and  ancient  history  show  the  great 
valor  of  the  Italians  in  time  of  war ;  but  when 
war  is  over  the  Italians  like  peace.  Robberies 
are  seldom  heard  of,  and  incendiarism  almost 
never.  Stealing  may  be  reduced  to  the  picking 
up  of  a  pocket  handkerchief.  Fighting  is  rare, 
and  murder  seldom  occurs  in  Italy,  notwithstand- 
ing the  impulsive  character  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
cheerful  and  lively  manner  of  the  Italians  in  con- 
versing, who  with  gesticulations  and  expressions 
of  the  eyes  accompany  their  words  when  they  talk, 
has  been  construed  by  strangers  into  effeminacy 
and  corruption  of  morals.\ 

It  is  true  that  the  extreme  Southern  part  of 

Italy,  especially  the  Calabrias,  have  been  and  are 

yet  infested  by  brigands.     The  famous  brigand 

Fuoco,  the  terror  of  travelers,  and  of  the  inhabi- 

21 


334  ITALY   AND   THE   ITALIANS. 

tants  of  Calabria,  and  his  fearful  band  of  robbers 
and  assassins,  are  well-known  throughout  Italy 
and  out  of  it.  I  remember  that  brigands  prevent- 
ed me  from  visiting  the  Antiquities  of  Paestum, 
and  that  they  have  and  do  baffle  the  vigilance  of 
the  soldiers ;  but  for  this  not  the  Italians,  but  the 
Italian  government  has  to  account.  These  brigands 
were  well-known  to  the  Neapolitan  government. 
It  would  be,  perhaps,  uncharitable  for  me  to  say, 
that  the  government  did  not  want  to  extirpate 
them,  and  that  at  the  request  of  its  favorites  in 
Calabria,  the  brigands  were  spared.  I  could  say 
much  upon  this  subject,  if  I  could  do  it  without 
trespassing  upon  the  limits  of  the  narrative  of  my 
travels,  and  without  tasking  too  much  the  patience 
of  the  benign  reader  .*| 

*  In  confirmation  of  these  remarks  from  the  author,  we  deem  it  appro- 
priate to  insert  the  following  relation  taken  from  the  Boston  Herald,  (sup- 
plement) October  8th,  1870. 

KILLING  A  BRIGAND.  —  How  it  was  done:  a  Romantic  Story.  —  Anne 
Brewster,  in  a  letter  from  Rome  to  the  Philadelphia  Bulletin,  writes : 

"  Fuoco,  the  famous  brigand  of  the  Neapolitan  territory,  its  terror  and 
scourge,  has  been  killed,  with  several  of  his  dreaded  band.  The  three 
peasants  who  performed  this  wonderful  feat  arrived  at  Caserta  last  Satur- 
day and,  of  course,  excited  great  interest.  Two  of  them  are  cousins, 
named  Bucci.  Nicandre  Bucci,  who  killed  Fuoco,  is  said  to  be  a  young, 
rigorous  fellow,  middle  height,  with  olive  complexion  and  very  black 
eyes  and  hair. 

"  These  young  men  receive  ovations  wherever  they  go,  so  happy  are 
the  Neapolitans  of  being  relieved  of  their  dreaded  Fuoco.  The  general 
government  pays  these  three  young  men  12,000  francs  in  gold — the  re- 
ward offered  for  the  capture  of  Fuoco — and  they  will  also  receive  several 
other  sums  from  different  provinces  and  communes. 

"  The  three  young  men  who  killed  the  great  leader  and  part  of  the 
band  were  taken  prisoners  on  the  7th  of  August.  The  two  companions 
who  were  with  them  were  released  the  following  day  and  sent  to  the 
families  of  the  remaining  three  to  get  the  ricatto  or  ransom.  The  brigands 
cut  off  the  ears  of  the  two  cousins,  Nicandro  and  Petro  Bucci,  and  sent 
them  to  their  families,  in  order  to  show  what  further  might  be  done  if  a 
buono  ricatto  was  not  sent  forthwith.  \ 


MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  335 

Their  religion,  to  which  they  are  firmly  attach- 
ed, has  been  assailed  and  styled  ignorance  and 
superstition.  The  Italians  possess  sufficient 
good  sense,  hence  they  must  despise  Protestant- 
ism and  appreciate  the  Catholic  religion,  and 
they  have  strong  faith  to  remain  fast  to  it.\ 

They  respect  the  Pope  as  the  Vicar  of  Our 
Saviour,  successor  of  St.  Peter,  and  they  feel  proud 
to  be  the  happy  nation  chosen  by  Providence 
to  possess  in  their  midst  so  valuable  a  treasure. 
The  troubles  and  persecutions  against  the  Pope 

"  The  poor  fellows  were  treated  pretty  rudely,  and  dragged  about  from 
post  to  post  mercilessly.  On  the  night  of  the  16th  of  August  they  lay  in 
the  camp,  worn  out  with  suffering^and  fatigue,  mutilated,  garroted — they 
were  in  a  frenzy  of  despair.  Five  of  the  brigands  were  playing  cards  by 
moonlight.  One  of  the  ricattati  or  prisoners  begged  to  be  untied  for  a 
few  minutes.  The  brigands  feeling  a  little  mercy  unloosened  the  bands 
of  all,  not  fearing  much  from  such  miserable,  half-dead  looking  creatures. 
About  3  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  brigands  fell  asleep,  except  one  who 
kept  guard  with  a  cocked  revolver  in  his  hand.  By  some  skillful  manage 
ment  the  prisoners  contrived  to  seize  each  a  weapon,  and  in  one  instant, 
sprang  unitedly  on  the  sleeping  brigands,  when  the  guard  deceived  by 
their  silence,  had  walked  off  to  a  little  distance.  Nicandro  Bucci  throt- 
tled Fuoco  and  cut  his  throat  with  a  bread  knife ;  his  cousin  killed 
Caroute,  another  frightful  fellow,  with  a  hatchet,  and  a  third  had  his 
skull  split  with  an  axe.  The  others,  with  the  guard,  were  only  wounded, 
and  fled.  The  three  young  heroes  took  the  arms  of  the  dead  brigands, 
cut  off  their  ear?,  took  possession  of  Fuoco's  papers  and  went  to  the 
nearest  town,  Picinisco,  and  announced  the  good  news  to  the  villagers. 

"  Dominico  Fuoco  was  forest  ranger  to  old  King  Ferdinand.  He  used  to 
visit  young  Francis  II.  at  the  Piazza  Farnese  very  often  the  first  winter  I 
came  to  Rome — 1868-69.  These  visits  caused  a  coldness  between  the  ex- 
King  of  Naples  and  the  Court  of  the  Vatican,  for  the  Italian  government 
complained  to  Cardinal  Antonelli  of  the  harboring  of  such  a  dangerous 
fellow  in  the  Papal  city.  Cardinal  Antonelli  told  King  Francis  that 
Fuoco  must  stay  away.  The  young  ex-sovereign  carried  his  griefs  to  the 
Holy  Father,  who  sided  with  the  Minister  of  State,  and  the  young  hus- 
band and  wife — Francis  II.  and  Queen  Sofie — felt  so  aggrieved  that  they 
left  Rome  for  some  months. 

"  Fuoco  once  served  in  the  Neapolitan  chasseurs  so  bravely  that  he 
received  promotion.  He  was  in  the  Roman  provinces  one  time  as  a 


336  ITALY   AND   THE   ITALIANS. 

do  not  come  from  the  Italians,  but  from  foreign 
infidels.  The  so-called  Garibaldian  army  that 
invaded  the  Roman  territory,  was  composed  of 
the  dregs  of  the  infidels  from  every  nation  of  Eu- 
rope, and  even  from  America.  I  was  in  Rome 
when  several  hundreds  of  Garibaldian's  had  been 
captured  by  the  Roman  army.  Only  a  few  of 
them  were  Italians  ;  the  rest  were  all  foreigners- 
some  even  from  Americax 

Pliny  observes  with  truth  that  Italy  is  the 
mother  of  all  nations  ;  she  has  civilized  them  and 
instructed  them  in  the  fine  arts  and  sciences. 
Even  Greece  sent  its  inhabitants  to  learn  the  sci- 
ences and  arts  in  Southern  Italy,  honoring  her 
with  her  name,  Grcecia ;  adding  to  it,  Magna. 
Liber  III.,  Cap.  5.  The  Italian  school  founded  by 
Pythagoras  in  Cotrone,  Southern  Italy,  is  famous 
to  this  day.  The  monuments  of  art  and  science 
in  every  part  of  Italy  and  of  every  age,  even 
without  the  testimony  of  history,  are  ample  proofs 
of  the  primacy  of  Italy .\ 

Before  Romulus  had  commenced  to  lay  the 
foundations  of  Rome,  the  civilizer  of  every  mod- 
ern nation,  Italy  was  thickly  inhabited  by  civil- 
ized nations.  The  sights  of  modern  Italy  laid  out 
by  Byron  and  Gibbon,  are  fancy  productions  of 

brigand.  Fuoco  was  a  ferocious,  bad  fellow,  some  say  ;  others  tell  most 
interesting  stories  proving  his  chivalric  character.  He  was  only  thirty- 
three,  of  ordinary  height.  A  friend  of  mine,  who  saw  him  at  the 
Farnese  palace  in  1868-9,  describes  him  to  me  as  a  thin,  agile  person, 
that  seemed  capable  of  any  fatigue  or  privation.  He  had  a  ruddy  com- 
plexion, red  hair,  and  a  thin  beard  of  the  same  color.  Fuoco  was  brave, 
cunning  and  ambitious.  It  is  said  he  had  dreams  of  being  appointed 
General  Commandant  of  a  province  in  the  event  of  Francis  Second's  res- 
toration !  Poor  fellow,  his  dreams  are  all  over  now."  \ 


MANNERS   AND   CUSTOMS.  337 

tlieir  prolific  and  foul  imaginations,  and  corrupt 
hearts  ;  they  are  not  to  be  taken  as  genuine  histo- 
rical proofs.  Italy  is  visited  from  all  quarters  of 
the  world.  A  great  "many  travelers  have  no  ca- 
pacity for  enjoying  what  they  see  ;  others  have 
no  talent  or  learning  to  appreciate  the  gems  of 
Italy.  In  Washington,  I  remember  an  American 
young  lady  who  had  traveled  in  Italy,  and  who 
had  spent  several  months  in  Naples  and  Eome. 
When  I  asked  her  how  she  liked  Italy,  she  replied 
that  she  was  pleased  with  every  thing  in  Italy  ex- 
cept the  music ;  that  she  did  not  like  it  at  all. 
She  said  enough  on  that  subject.  An  American 
was  asked  in  Pompeii  to  observe  a  particular 
fresco,  but  he  refused,  saying  that  he  had  seen 
many  of  them  in  Boston,  New  York,  and  other 
cities  of  America!  The  frescoes  in  America, 
are  nothing  else  but  water  and  oil  paintings  on  the 
plaster  of  churches  and  houses.  Every  good 
white-washer  in  Italy  can  do  them  with  some  per- 
fection. America  has  no  fresco,  and  I  think  it  will 
never  have  any  for  some  time.  The  real  fresco  is 
a  painting  executed  with  water-colors  upon  a  lay- 
er of  fresh  plaster  before  the  plaster  becomes  dry. 
Travelers  hurry  through  the  country  according  to 
the  direction  of  their  guide-books,  led  by  cicerones, 
who  often  laugh  at  tlieir  simplicity, without  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  language  and  manners.  They  never 
come  in  contact  with  the  people,  and  often  they 
write  notes  of  great  absurdity.  I  have  seen  strang- 
ers about  Christmas-time  taking  for  Lazzaroni,  the 
bagpipers,  who  about  this  time  visit  Naples,  play- 
ing and  singing  hymns  and  songs,  dressed  in  their 


338  ITALY   AND    THE   ITALIANS. 

costume  of  shepherds,  with  pointed  hats,  shaped 
like  cones,  brown  cloaks,  and  sandals.  On  several 
occasions  they  have  taken  for  priests  and  monks, 
laymen  who  wear  cassocks  to  serve  mass,  or  who 
are  sacristans  or  members  of  sodalities,  because 
they  wear  sack,  monzetta,  and  hood,  collecting 
alms,  or  forming  processions  to  inter  the  dead.x 

Public  and  private  instruction  is  carried  on 
in  Italy  on  a  grand  scale.  Professors  are  elec- 
ted by  concourse,  and  subjected  to  a  rigorous 
examination.  The  amount  of  knowledge,  learn- 
ing, and  sound  judgment  required  of  them  is 
really  surprising.  To  be  fully  convinced  of  it,  it 
is  sufficient  to  read  the  circular  issued  every  year 
by  the  ministry  of  public  instruction.  Colleges, 
academies,  libraries,  museums,  hospitals,  char- 
itable institutions,  poor-houses,  etc.  are  very  com- 
mon things.  There  is  no  village  or  town  with- 
out some  of  them.  In  cities  they  have  separate 
hospitals  for  different  diseases,  and  they  are  car- 
ried on  in  a  very  skillful  manner.  To  speak  of  them 
would  take  entire  volumes.  It  is  enough  to  say 
that,  in  Naples,  there  is  a  charitable  institution  to 
pay  the  debts  of  the  poor,  if  they  do  not  amount 
to  one  hundred  dollars.  Many  benevolent  insti- 
tutions, trumpeted  in  this  country  as  founded  by 
the  modern  philanthropy  of  the  Protestants,  are 
only  poor  imitations  of  old  establishments  exist- 
ing in  Italy  from  century  to  century. \ 

The  poor-houses  and  hospitals  are  used  only  for 
the  poor,  and  not  for  criminals.  In  Italy,  pover- 
ty is  not  considered  a  crime,  and  no  person  is 
ever  deprived  of  his  liberty,  or  of  his  rights  of 


MANNERS   AND   CUSTOMS.  339 

citizenship  because  he  is  poor  and  solicits  the 
charity  of  the  public.  Many  noble  and  wealthy 
families  have  days  appointed  for  every  week  or 
every  month  to  distribute  alms  to  all  who 
apply  for  them  ;  I  have  seen  their  palaces  sur- 
rounded by  hundreds  of  applicants.  Others,  at 
the  commencement  of  the  year,  set  apart  a  por- 
tion of  their  revenues  to  be  appropriated  for  the 
poor  during  the  year.  At  All  Souls'  Day  and  Oc- 
tave no  Italian  would  refuse  to  give  alms,  which 
good  work  is  applied  by  them  for  the  souls  in  pur- 
gatory ;  on  such  days  the  crowds  of  people,  either 
poor  or  otherwise,  is  immense  in  giving  or  receiv- 
ing alms.  This  is  the  reason  why  foreigners  be- 
lieve that  the  number  of  poor  people  in  Italy  is 
large  ;  in  reality  there  are  far  less  poor  in  Italy 
than  in  Germany,  England  or  America,  and  they 
are  better  taken  care  of.  I  have  never  heard  of 
a  person  dying  of  starvation  in  Italy,  while  such 
cases  happen  in  London,  New  York,  Boston,  and 
other  places. \ 

If  the  customs,  manners,  and  language  of  Italy 
were  understood  by  travelers,  and  things  observed 
without  prejudice,  many  regulations  and  usages 
would  not  be  forthwith  condemned,  much  valuable 
information  could  be  obtained,  and  useful  instruc- 
tions might  be  derived.  I  close  this  volume  by  re- 
lating some  excellent  information,  which  I  receiv- 
ed in  Italy  concerning  the  regulations  of  the  rail- 
roads in  that  country  with  regard  to  travelers. \ 

I  was  in  a  railroad  office  at  Naples,  conversing 
with  some  officers  of  a  corporation  of  the  Ferro- 
vie  Meridionali  (southern  railroads).  I  observed 


340  ITALY    AND    THE   ITALIANS. 

to  them  that,  in  every  country,  they  allow  to 
each  passenger  a  fixed  amount  of  baggage  to  go 
free  on  the  railroad  ;  and  only  in  Italy  the  cor- 
porations allow  no  baggage  to  be  transported  free, 
except  what  a  traveler  can  take  with  him  in 
the  cars  without  causing  inconvenience  to  others. 
They  smiled  at  me,  and  said  that  in  other  coun- 
tries railroads  always  charge  travelers  for  bag- 
gage, whether  they  have  it  or  not,  but  in  Italy  we 
do  not  require  any  payment  except  for  the  seat 
occupied  in  the  car  ;  if  travelers  have  baggage, 
we  charge  it  so  much  per  kilogramme.  In  other 
countries  the  price  for  the  ticket  includes  also  the 
price  for  the  transportation  of  baggage  to  the 
amount  of  seventy  pounds,  or  other  quantity,  ac- 
cording to  the  regulations  of  different  corporations. 
It  is  so  in  reality.  The  case  is  the  same  as  on 
boats,  where  your  ticket  includes  meals  whether 
you  take  them  or  not,  and  on  those  steamers 
where  you  are  charged  only  for  your  passage, 
and  if  you  want  meals,  you  must  pay  extra.  A 
look  at  the  list  of  prices  for  tickets  on  the  Italian 
railroad,  and  on  rail  ways  of  other  countries,  point 
out  plainly  the  truth  of  this  remark.x 

In  the  same  manner,  many  other  customs  in 
appearance  strange  and  even  absurd,  would  be 
found  right  and  reasonable,  if  they  were  looked 
into  without  prejudice,  and  properly  understood 
by  a  perfect  explanation^ 

END  OF  VOLUME  I. 
A.  M.  D.  G.  D.  Q.  V.  M.  I. 


T  K  A  Y  E  L  S 


EUROPE,   EGYPT,  ARABIA   PETR^A, 
PALESTINE  AND  SYRIA. 


KEY.   EUGENE    VETEOMILE,    D.D., 

APOSTOLIC  MISSIONARY, 

CORRESPONDING    MEMBER    OP    THE    MAINE    HISTORICAL    SOCIETY;     MEMBER    OF    THE 

NEW-ENGLAND  HISTORIC-GENEALOGICAL  SOCIETY  ;  OF  THE  NUMISMATIC 

ANTIQUARIAN  SOCIETY  OF  PHILADELPHIA,  PA.  J    OF 

THE  YORK  INSTITUTE,  ETC.,  ETC. 


IN  TWO    VOLUMES. 
VOL.11. 


NEW  YOBK: 

D.  &  J.  SADLIER  &   CO. ,31   BARCLAY   STREET 

MONTREAL  :— COR.  NOTRE  DAME  &  ST.  FRANCIS  XAVIER  STS, 
1871. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871, 

BY  D,  &  J,  SADLIER  &  COMPANY, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


INDEX  TO  VOL.    II. 


CHAPTER  I 

ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

Departure  from  Gallipolis,  3  ;  Lecce  again,  4  ;  Brindisi,  5  ;  Sail  for 
Egypt,  6  ;  A  Bey,  7  ;  A  Plan  to  turn  the  Deserts  of  Africa  into 
Forests,  7  ;  Otranto  and  the  Martyrs,  8  ;  Promontory  Capo  di  Leu- 
ca,  10  ;  Corfu,  12  ;  Cephalonia,  13  ;  Candia,  13  ;  Persecution  of 
Christians,  14  ;  Shores  of  Africa,  16  ;  Sight  of  Alexandria,  17  ; 
Landing  in  Alexandria,  19  ;  Custom  House,  19  ;  City  of  Alexan- 
dria, 22  ;  The  Pacha's  Palace,  22  ;  Cleopatra's  Needles,  22  ;  Pom- 
pey's  Pillar,  23  ;  Palace  of  the  Ptolemies,  24  ;  Alexandrian  Libra- 
ry, 25  ;  Tower  of  Pharos,  26  ;  The  Septuagint  Version  of  the  Old 
Testament,  27  ;  Church  of  St.  Athanasius,  27  ;  Catacombs'  in  the 
Desert,  28  ;  Modern  Alexandria,  29  ;  A  Catholic  Missionary  from  St. 
Louis  poisoned,  30. 

CHAPTEE  n. 

GRAND      CAIRO. 

Departure  from  Alexandria,  35  ;  The  Ramadan,  37  ;  Arrival  at  Cairo, 
37  ;  Grand  Cairo,  38  ;  Oriental  Manners,  39  ;  The  Citadel,  44  ;  Ex- 
termination of  the  Mamelukes,  45  ;  Joussouf  Palace,  45  ;  The 
Mosque  of  the  Pacha  Mehemed  Ali,  46  ;  Palace  of  Ismail  Pacha, 
Grand  Vizier,  46  ;  Joseph's  Well,  47  ;  Return  of  the  Pilgrims 
from  Mecca,  47  :  Mosque  of  Sultan  Hassan,  48  ;  Excursion  on  don- 
keys to  the  Pyramids,  50  ;  Crossing  the  Nile,  51. 


CHAPTEE 

THE    PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

Approach  to  the  Pyramids,  54  ;  Cheops'  Pyramid,  55  ;  Ascension  of  the 
Great  Pyramid,  57  ;  Interior  of  the  Pyramids,  60  ;  The  Sphinx, 
65  ;  Attempt  to  enter  a  Mosque,  67  ;  Old  Cairo,  67  ;  A  Schismatic 

(i) 


11  INDEX   TO   VOL   II. 

Greek  Church,  68  ;  The  Greek  Schism,  69  ;  A  Jacobite  Church, 
71  ;  House  of  the  Holy  Family,  72  ;  Mass  in  the  House  of  the 
Holy  Family,  72. 

CHAPTEE  IV. 

EASTERN    RITES. 

The  Maronites,  76  ;  The  Greeks  or  Melchites,  77  ;  The  Syrians,  79  ; 
The  Armenians,  80  ;  The  Chaldeans,  81  ;  The  Copts,  81  ;  The 
Abyssinians,82;  The  Latins,  83;  The  Schismatic  Greeks,  83;  The 
Schismatic  Armenians,  85  ;  The  Jacobites  or  Syrian  Monophy  sites, 
87  ;  The  Schismatic  Copts,  87  ;  .  The  Schismatic  Abyssinians  or 
African  Monophy  sites  and  the  Nestorians,  89  ;  Protestants,  91. 

CHAPTEE  V. 

CAIRO—  CONTINUED. 

Mosque  of  Tayloon,  94  ;  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  95  ;  Tree  of  the  B.  V. 
Mary,  97  ;  Heliopolis,  98  ;  Petrified  Forest,  99  ;  Pyramids  of  Sak- 
kara,  102  ;  Interior  of  the  Pyramids,  103  ;  Memphis,  104  ;  Croco- 
dopolis,  105  ;  Tombs,  105  ;  Siout,  108  ;  Temple  of  Dendera,  109; 
Thebes,  110  ;  Temple  of  Karnak  and  Luxor,  111  ;  Memnonium, 
113  ;  Esne,  115  ;  Assuan,  115. 

CHAPTEE  VI. 

SUEZ. 

Return  to  Cairo,  116  ;  Suez,  118  ;  The  Red  Sea,  119  ;  Spot  where  Mo- 
ses and  the  Israelites  crossed  the  Red  Sea,  119  ;  Desert  of  Arabia, 
122  ;  Fountain  of  Moses,  122  ;  Mount  Sinai,  123  ;  Wilderness  of 
Sur,  124  ;  Bedouins,  125  ;  Arabs,  125  ;  Return  to  Suez  and  Cairo, 
128  ;  Sailing  for  the  Holy  Land  on  a  Turkish  Steamer,  129  ;  Re- 
fusal to  observe  the  Koran,  130;  Port  Said,  131. 


CHAPTEE 

THE      HOLY     LAND. 

Sailing  from  Port  Said,  133  ;  Sight  of  Palestine,  135  ;  Landing  at  the 
Holy  Land,  136  ;  Jaffa,  139  ;  Starting  for  Jerusalem,  141  ;  Plains 
of  Saron,  142;  Ramleh,  143  ;  Tower  of  the  Forty  Martyrs.  143  ; 
A  Rascally  Piedmontese,  145  ;  Abou  Gosh,  146  ;  The  Good  Thief  s 
Village,  147;  Valley  of  Therebinth,  149;  Brook  where  David 
picked  up  the  stones  to  kill  Goliath,  151  ;  Approach  to  Jerusalem, 
151. 


INDEX   TO   VOL.    II.  Ill 

CHAPTER  Vm. 

JERUSALEM. 

Entrance  into  Jerusalem,  154 ;  Casa  Nuova,  154 ;  Father  Emmanuel, 
155  ;  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  157  ;  Mount  Calvary,  157  ; 
Miraculous  Fire,  176 ;  Via  Dolorosa,  179  ;  Prison  of  St.  Peter,  183 ; 
Church  of  St.  James  the  Apostle,  184;  Probatic  Pond,  184; 
Church  and  Convent  of  St.  Saviour,  185. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

ENVIRONS    OF  JERUSALEM. 

Jews'  Wailing  Place,  187 ;  Garden  of  Gethsemani,  189  ;  Tomb  of  the 
Blessed  Virgin,  191 ;  Mount  of  Olives,  192  ;  Mountain  and  Place 
of  the  Ascension  of  Our  Lord,  193 ;  The  Gehenna,  195  ;  Nehemi- 
ah's  Well,  195  ;  Valley  of  Siloam,  196 ;  Valley  of  Jehosaphat, 
197 ;  Melchisedeck,  197  ;  Brook  of  Cedron,  198 ;  Mount  Sion,  199 ; 
The  Cenacle,  201 ;  Tomb  of  David,  201 ;  Residence  of  Caiphas, 
203  ;  Cavern  of  Jeremiah,  203  ;  Tomb  of  Lazarus,  205  ;  Jericho, 
205  ;  The  Jordan,  207  ;  Church  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  208 ;  The 
Dead  Sea,  208  ;  Emmaus,  210  ;  Mass  on  the  Tomb  of  Our  Lord, 
210 ;  Illness  of  the  Author,  211. 

CHAPTER  X. 

BETHLEHEM   AND   HEBRON. 

Recovery,  214  ;  Departure  for  Bethlehem,  215  ;  Unpleasant  Accident, 
216  ;  Jacob's  Tower,  217  ;  Tomb  of  Rachel,  217  ;  Bethlehem,  218  ; 
Milk  Grotto,  219  ;  Bethlehem's  Church,  220  ;  St.  Joseph's  House, 
224  ;  The  Shepherd's  Village,  225  ;  Solomon's  Pools,  226 ;  Mam- 
bre's  Valley,  227  ;  Hebron,  228 ;  Beitgiala,  229  ;  House  of  St.  Eliza- 
beth, 229  ;  Desert  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  229. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

JERUSALEM     AGAIN. 

Mosque  of  Omar,  231 ;  Mount  Moriah,  231 ;  Temple  of  Solomon,  232  ; 
Stone  of  Prophecy,  237  ;  Well  of  the  departed  Souls,  238  ;  Tern- 
pie  of  the  Presentation,  239  ;  Foundations  of  the  Temple  of  Solr 
onion,  241  ;  Dorian  Gate,  241 ;  A  Pilgrim  from  the  Arctic  Polar 
Zone,  243 ;  General  remarks,  244. 


V  INDEX   TO   VOL.    II. 

CHAPTEE  XII. 

PALESTINE  —  CONTINUED. 

Departure  from  Jerusalem,  251  ;  Place  of  Jacob's  Ladder,  252  ;  Jacob's 
Well,  253  ;  Mount  Gerizim,  253  ;  Joseph's  Tomb,  253  ;  Sichem, 
253  ;  Samaria,  254  ;  Bethulia,  255  ;  Mountains  of  Gelboe,  255  ;  Se- 
baste,  255  ;  Plain  of  Esdraelon,  255  ;  Mount  Hermon,  256  ;  Nairn, 
256  ;  Nazareth,  257  ;  Sanctuary  of  the  Annunciation,  257  ;  Church 
of  the  Synagogue,  258  ;  St.  Joseph's  House,  258  ;  Mountain  of 
the  Precipitation,  259  ;  House  of  St.  Joachim  and  St.  Anne,  259. 


CHAPTER 

GALILEE     AND     SYRIA. 

Cana  of  Galilee,  261  ;  Field  of  Zabulon,  262  ;  Sea  of  Galilee,  262  ; 
Tiberias,  262  ;  Magdala,  265  ;  Bethsaida,  265  ;  Capharnaum,  265  ; 
Mount  Tabor,  267  ;  Banias,  269  ;  Spot  of  the  Conversion  of  St. 
Paul,  270  ;  Damascus,  270  ;  Anti-Libanus,  272  ;  Eiver  Barrada, 
272;  Ruins  of  Baalbec,  273  ;  Libanus,  273;  Zahleh,  275  ;  Bey- 
ruth,  275. 

CHAPTEE  XIV. 

TEE   LEVANT   AND    GREECE. 

Sail  on  a  Russian  Steamer,  277  ;  A  Greek  Quack,  278  ;  A  Leader  of 
Mussulman  Pilgrims,  278  ;  Cyprus,  280  ;  Rhodes,  280  ;  Patmos, 
280  ;  Samos,  280  ;  Smyrna,  281  ;  Ephesus,  282  ;  I.  (Ecumenical 
Council  of  Ephesus,  283  ;  II.  Oecumenical  Council  rejected  by  the 
Pope,  284;  Sail  to  Piraeus,  285  ;  Athens,  285  ;  Nauplia,  287  ;  My- 
cenae, 288  ;  Corinth,  288  ;  Patras,  289  ;  Zante,  289  ;  Corfu,  289. 

CHAPTEE  XV. 

EUROPE     AGAIN. 

Brindisi,  291  ;  Arrival  at  Loretto,  292  ;  Sanctuary  of  the  Holy  House, 
293;  The  City,  294;  Ancona,  294;  Rimini,  295;  Oecumenical 
Council  of  Rimini  rejected  by  the  Pope,  295  ;  The  Bishops  fall 
into  error,  295  ;  Authority  of  the  Pope  over  the  Council,  296  ; 
Turin,  299  ;  Fair  in  Turin,  299  ;  Crossing  the  Alps  in  winter,  300  ; 
Pass  of  Mount  Cenis,  300  ;  Frontiers  of  France,  302  ;  Lyons,  303  ; 
CEcumenical  Councils,  303  ;  Paris,  303  ;  Dieppe,  306  ;  London,  306. 

CHAPTEE  XVI. 

ENGLAND   AND   THE  OCEAN. 

Oxford,  308;  Liverpool,  309;  Bolton,  309;  Embarkation,  310;  Lough 
Foyle,  311  ;  Moville,  311  ;  The  Ocean,  312  ;  A  Storm,  312  ;  Coasts 
of  Nova  Scotia,  313;  Acadia,314;  Portland,  315  ;  Conclusion,  315. 


TRAVELS 


EUKOPE,  EGYPT,  ARABIA  PETMA, 


ETC. 

.    II. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  GALLIPOLIS LEGCE  AGAIN BRINDISI — SAIL  FOR  EGYPT A 

BEY A  PLAN  TO  TURN  THE  DESERTS  OF  AFRICA  INTO  FORESTS OTRANTO  AND 

THE  MARTYRS PROMONTORY  CAPO  DI  LEUCA CORFU — CEPHALON1A — CANDIA 

PERSECUTION  OF  CHRISTIANS SHORES  OF  AFRICA — SIGHT  OF  ALEXANDRIA — 

LANDING  IN   ALEXANDRIA CUSTOM-HOUSE CITY   OF  ALEXANDRIA THE 

PACHA'S  PALACE  —  CLEOPATRA'S  NEEDLES — POMPEY'S  PILLAR  —  PALACE  OF 

THE  PTOLOMIES ALEXANDRIAN  LIBRARY TOWER  OF  PHAROS THE  SEPTUA- 

GINT  VERSION  OF  THE  OLD  TESTAMENT — CHURCH  OF  ST.  ATHANASIUS — CATA- 
COMBS IN  THE  DESERT MODERN  ALEXANDRIA A  CATHOLIC  MISSIONARY  FROM 

ST.  LOUIS  POISONED. 

\  IN  Gallipolis  I  had  the  choice  of  three  different 
lines  of  steamers  for  Alexandria,  in  Egypt.  I 
could  take  the  weekly  mail  steamer  which  leaves 
Gallipolis  every  Sunday  for  Corfu,  and  from 
thence  next  day  connect  with  the  Lloyd  Aus- 
trian weekly  line  for  Alexandria ;  or  go  to 
Brindisi,  and  then  take  the  Italian  weekly 
mail  steamer  for  Alexandria  ;  or  take  the  mail 
steamer  which  leaves  Gallipolis  every  Wednes- 


4  ARRIVAL  IX   EGYPT. 

day  for  Messina,  and  there  take  the  weekly 
French  steamer  (Messageries  Imperiales)  for  Al- 
exandria.\ 

I  chose  the  first ;  but,  two  hours  before  my 
embarcation,  the  agent  sent  me  word  that  he  had 
forgotten  to  let  me  know  that  in  Corfu  I  would 
be  submitted  to  a  quarantine  of  five  days,  be- 
cause there  had  been  no  official  notification  sent 
thither  that  the  cholera  had  ceased  in  Gallipolis. 
I  was  not  willing  to  be  put  in  quarantine,  coming 
from  localities  free  of  cholera ;  whereas  I  had 
traveled  from  place  to  place  where  the  cholera 
was  quite  severe,  not  only  without  quarantine, 
but  even  without  undergoing  the  disagreeable 
process  of  fumigation.  I  resolved,  then,  to  go  via 
Brindisi,  by  the  Italian  line,  and  as  the  steamer 
was  to  start  the  next  day,  Monday,  at  2  p.  M.,  I 
ordered  a  private  carriage  to  be  ready,  early  in 
the  afternoon,  for  Lecce.  Here  I  can  find  no  ex- 
pression sufficient  to  describe  the  tears  and  grief 
of  my  relations  and  friends  at  my  departure  ;  it 
was  a  heart-rending  spectacle,  never  to  be  forgot- 
ten! I  ordered  the  vetturino  to  drive  at  once. 
He  took  another  passenger  for  Lecce,  whither  we 
arrived  at  6  P.  M.\ 

At  the  gate  of  the  city  we  were  asked  by  the 
officers  if  we  had  articles  subject  to  duty.  I  had 
none,  but  the  other  passenger  had  a  large  jug,  of 
several  gallons,  containing  pickled  olives.  He 
stated  so,  and  asked  if  there  was  any  duty 
on  them.  The  officers  answered,  no  ;  but  they 
would  have  to  examine  them  by  thrusting  into 


BRINDISI.  0 

the  jug  a  long  spit  of  iron.  Here  the  traveler  got 
furious  ;  he  rushed  out  of  the  carriage,  calling  the 
officers  by  opprobrious  names,  declaring  that 
they  should  never  thrust  that  spit  into  the  jug  to 
injure  the  olives.  He  said,  "I  am  ready  to  pay 
the  duty,  if  there  is  any.  I  have  declared  the 
article,  but  you  have  no  right  to  spoil  my  olives." 
They  insisted  upon  the  examination.  Grumbling, 
he  ordered  the  vetturino  to  take  the  jug  into  the 
office.  It  was  opened,  found  right,  closed  again, 
and  put  in  the  carriage.  The  officers,  grumbling 
too,  complained  of  being  called  such  unbecoming 
names  by  the  passenger,  who,  still  more  vexed, 
not  only  offered  no  redress  or  apology,  but  called 
them  again  by  the  same  names,  and  off  the  car- 
riage went.  There  was  no  swearing  or  cursing. 
I  stopped  at  the  Hotel  delta  Ferrovia.  Next  day 
I  took  the  first  train  for  Brindisi,  at  5:50  A.M., 
where  I  arrived  at  7:10  A.M.  Leaving  my  bag- 
gage at  the  station,  I  went  to  the  steamer-office, 
to  secure  my  passage  for  Alexandria,  which  cost 
275  francs  in  currency — first-class.  I  walked  to 
see  the  steamer,  which  lay  close  to  the  wharf. 
It  was  a  fine  first-class  iron  steamer,  built  on  the 
Clyde,  and  I  received  one  of  the  best  state-rooms. 
The  name  of  the  steamer  was  the  Principe  di  Ca- 
rignano.  I  returned  to  the  station  and  took  niy 
baggage.  I  observed  a  memorandum  on  my  pas- 
sage paper  that  the  company  were  not  responsi- 
ble for  any  trouble  on  account  of  the  custom- 
house or  passport  in  Alexandria.  I  asked,  at  the 
office,  whether  any  passport  was  necessary.  I 


6  ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

was  told  by  the  agent  tLat  the  company  required 
none,  but  the  Egyptian  consul  at  Brindisi  claimed 
the  necessity  of  a  passport  and  his  vise;  nay,  he 
had  threatened  not  to  allow  passengers  without 
passports  vised  by  him  to  land  at  Alexandria. 
I  remarked  to  the  agent  that  in  Naples  I  had  re- 
quested the  American  consul  to  give  me  informa- 
tion on  this  subject,  and  I  was  told  that  no  pass- 
port was  needed  ;  that  it  was  as  well  to  have  it, 
but  no  vise  was  required.  I  had  my  passport, 
but  I  did  not  want  to  have  the  Egyptian  con- 
sul's vise,  which  I  considered  only  a  trick  to 
get  money.  I  was  confirmed  in  my  opinion. 
I  dined  at  Brindisi,  and,  soon  after  dinner,  I  em- 
barked.\ 

At  12  M.  the  train  arrived  from  Turin  with 
the  Indian  mail  for  Suez,  and  Calcutta,  East  In- 
dies, and  at  4  p.  M.  the  steamer  sailed  for  Alexan- 
dria. When  the  passengers  came  on  board,  I 
observed  a  French  gentleman,  who  could  not 
speak  Italian,  offering  one  franc  to  a  boy,  who 
had  carried  him  from  the  wharf,  a  distance  of  only 
a  stone's  throw.  I  had  paid  only  25  centimes, 
five  cents  ;  and  he  now  would  not  take  a  franc. 
I  told  the  -gentleman  not  to  give  any  more, 
and  I  told  the  boy  to  be  content  with  it.  When 
he  heard  me  speaking  Italian,  he  took  the  franc 
and  went  off  very  quick.  The  company  on  board 
the  steamer  was  very  agreeable.  There  were 
Englishmen,  Americans,  Frenchmen,  and  Italians. 
I  was  happy  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  a  Bey  of 
the  household  of  the  Pasha  of  Egypt.  He  was  an 


ALEXANDRIA   STEAMER.  7 

Italian,  a  good  Catholic,  and  very  learned.  .  He 
had  published  several  works  on  Egypt.  He  is 
the  originator  of  a  plan  for  converting  the  vast 
deserts  of  Egypt  into  forests.  He  explained  it  to 
me,  and  I  found  it  practicable.  His  plan  is  to 
raise  an  extensive  nursery  of  forest  trees,  and  to 
plant  them  in  the  desert,  commencing  from  the 
line  where  the  inundation  of  the  Nile  ceases,  and 
oblige  the  Arabs  to  water  them.  The  trees 
naturally  attract  moisture  to  form  clouds  and 
bring  rain.  Experience  has  established  this 
truth.  Before  the  plantation  of  trees  along  the 
Nile,  there  never  was  any  rain  in  Egypt ;  the 
trees  were  first  nursed  by  irrigation,  and  now. 
that  trees  are  common  in  Egypt,  Alexandria  is 
enriched  with  frequent  rains.  The  ever  clear  sky 
of  Cairo  has  been  often  covered  with  clouds,  and 
rain  falls  occasionally.  Even  Suez  has  had  two 
abundant  rains,  with  a  thunder  storm,  this  year  ; 
a  phenomenon  never  witnessed  before.  Several 
learned  men,  to  whom  this  plan  has  been  submit- 
ted, have  encouraged  it,  and  the  Pasha  seems  to 
favor  it ;  but,  to  put  it  in  practice,  requires  ener- 
gy, skill,  wisdom,  and  expense.  I  had  seen  this 
gentleman  in  Paris,  superintending  the  Egyptian 
department  in  the  Paris  exhibition,  and  now  he 
was  returning  to  Cairo.x 

The  passengers  were  very  much  pleased  with 
the  Italian  steamer.  They  admired  its  order, 
cleanliness  and  propriety.  The  officers  were  po- 
lite and  obliging  ;  the  servants  attentive  and 
gentlemanly  •  the  captain  could  speak  both  Eng- 


8  ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

lisli  and  French  ;  the  Italian  table,  with  good 
wines,  was  much  relished  by  the  passengers,  and 
they  felt  highly  pleased  and  satisfied  ;  except  the 
Americans,  about  the  ham — they  could  not  under- 
stand how  raw  ham  could  be  used  without  being 
cooked  ;  but  the  others  found  it  excellent.\ 

We  passed  near  to  the  beautiful  shores  of  the 
land  of  Otranto,  which  were  gently  sloping  into 
the  Adriatic  Sea.  The  fine  villas  and  terraces 
were  reflected  on  the  sea  as  in  a  mirror.  On  the 
left,  we  could  observe  Cape  Linguetta,  in  Albany, 
famous  for  being  the  head  of  the  monster  Chimera, 
breathing  flames,  with  three  heads  of  lions,  the 
body  of  a  goat  and  the  tail  of  a  dragon,  which 
had  laid  waste  the  fields  of  Lycia  till  killed  by 
Bellerophon,  according  to  the  poets.  The  ancient 
city  of  Otranto  (Hydruntum)  soon  made  its  ap- 
pearance on  the  height  of  a  hill  ;  it  is  the  last 
city  of  Southern  Italy,  and,  at  present,  reduced 
to  only  3,000  inhabitants.  Its  name  will  last  for- 
ever, on  account  of  eight  hundred  martyrs  who, 
in  one  day,  shed  their  blood  within  its  walls  for 
the  confession  of  the  Catholic  religion.  The 
circumstances  are  as  follows :  It  was  in  the 
year  1480,  when  Mohammed,  with  15,000  war- 
riors, persuaded  by  the  Venitians  to  abandon 
the  siege  of  Kodi,  took  the  direction  of  Brindisi ; 
but,  changing  his  mind,  he  assailed  Otranto, 
and  after  sixteen  days'  desperate  fighting — the 
Turks  having  succeeded  in  making  large  breaches 
in  the  walls — entered  the  city,  and  after  a  sad 
vandalic  havoc  to  the  place  and  inhabitants, 


OTRANTO.  9 

Those  citizens  who  had  no  opportunity  to  escape 
from  the  hands  of  the  Turks,  were  summoned  to 
embrace   the   Mohammedan   religion  ;    it  being 
firmly  refused,  they  were  beheaded  on  the  spot. 
Ancient  pictures  and  legends  record  that  Antonio  • 
Primaldo,  mayor  of  the  city,  exhorted  the  in- 
habitants to  lay  down  their  lives  and  die  for  the 
Catholic  religion.     He,  like  a  Mathathias  of  old, 
stood  firm  against  Mohammed  and  his  army,  and 
declared,  in  the  name  of  his  people,  a  readiness 
to  exchange  this  mortal  life  for  another  which 
would  have  no  end.     In  presence  of  eight  hun- 
dred  of   his   fellow-citizens,    who    all   received 
martyrdom,  he  was  the  first  one  to  be  executed. 
The  manner  in  which  he  was  martyred  was  by 
standing  up,  while  a  Turk,  with  a  single  blow  of 
a  large  cimeter,  cut  his  head  off.     His  headless 
body  remained  standing  up,  erect  and  firm.     No 
force  could  pull  it  down.     They  tied  a  rope  to  it, 
and  a  large  crew  of  Turks  endeavored  to  level 
it  to  the  ground,  but  to  no  purpose.     His  severed 
head  never  ceased,  with  a  loud  voice,  to  exhort 
his  people  to  die   for  the   Catholic  faith.      His 
voice  stopped  and  his  body  fell  only  when  all 
had  received  the  immortal  crown  of  martyrdom.\ 
The  festival  of  these  martyrs  is  celebrated  in 
August,  and  the  entire  Province  has   a  proper 
mass  and  office  granted  from  Eome.    I  have  seen, 
on   another   occasion,  their   relics   kept   in    the 
Arch-cathedral^of  Otrarito.     I  feel  proud,  and  so 
also  does  the  entire  Province  of  Lecce,  of  those 
martyrs.     It  is  an  evidence  of  the  firmness  of 
IL— 2 


10  ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

the  Catholic  religion  in  the  hearts  of  the  Italians. 
A  few  weeks  afterwards  there  was  sufficient  force 
sent  to  expel  the  Turks,  who  left  immediately. 
The  entire  sea-coast  of  Apulia  has  been  the 
theatre  of  rapine  and  blood  at  the  hands  of 
pirates,  until  fortifications  in  sight  of  each  other 
have  been  built  to  protect  the  country.  All 
the  houses,  farm-houses  and  villas  along  the  sea- 
coast,  or  at  a  short  distance  from  it,  are  built  like 
fortifications  and  provided  with  drawbridges. 
However,  now  and  then,  they  have  been  the 
prey  of  pirates.  It  is  within  my  recollection 
that  some  pirates  landed  between  Otranto  and 
Cape  Santa  Maria  di  Leuca  arid  robbed  many 
houses  and  one  village,  and  carried  away  a  num- 
ber of  women  :  but  the  pirates  were  overtaken  by 
a  Neapolitan  man-of-war,  which  brought  the  rob- 
bers' vessel  to  Tarentum,  and  the  women  and 
everything  were  restored  to  their  own  place.\ 

We  soon  came  in  sight  of  the  majestic  promon- 
tory called  Santa  Maria  di  Leuca,  the  ancient  acra 
Japygia,  the  last  southern  point  on  the  heel  of 
Italy,  the  end  of  my  native  Province.  A  beau- 
tiful light-house,  which  can  be  seen  for  many 
miles,  has  been  constructed  lately.\ 

The  origin  of  Santa  Maria  di  Leuca  was  prob- 
ably due  to  some  colony  from  Leucas  the  primi- 
tive name  of  the  capital  of  Leu  cad  ia,  called  now 
Santa  Maura,  one  of  the  Ionian  Islands,  not  far 
from  this  promontory.  I  should  not  be  surprised 
if  the  original  name  of  Santa  Maria  di  Leuca  was 
Santa  Maura  di  Leucas.  Leuce  is  the  name  of  the 


SANTA   MARIA   DI    LEUCA.  11 

western  range  of  the  high  chain  of  mountains  that 
runs  through  the  whole  length  of  the  Island  of 
Candia.\ 

In  this  Italian  promontory  are  found  remains' 
of  ancient  buildings.  A  magnificent  sanctuary, 
dedicated  to  the  Blessed  Virgin,  still  exists,  where 
service  is  held  daily.  Pilgrimages  are  continually 
performed  to  this  church  ;  and  I  have  seen  num- 
bers of  flags  hanging  in  the  nave  of  the  sanctuary, 
deposited  there,  which  bad  been  sent  by  many 
towns  and  cities  whose  inhabitants  had  perform- 
ed processions  of  pilgrimages  in  case  of  distress. 
I  gazed  with  feeling  upon  my  native  land, 
now  rapidly  retreating  from  my  sight.  Many 
associations  recurred  to  my  mind,  when,  over 
thirty-five  years  ago,  in  company  with  some  of 
my  friends  (some  living,  but  the  most  departed 
to  a  better  world),  I  visited  that  sanctuary  and 
examined  the  remains  of  antiquity — a  sanctuary 
several  times  pillaged  and  destroyed  by  pirates, 
and  so  many  times  rebuilt  by  the  piety  of  the 
people.  And  while  my  mind  was  wandering 
into  the  many  circumstances  that  had  taken  place 
in  the  evolutions  of  so  many  years,  I  perceiv- 
ed that  my  native  land  had  vanished  from  my 
eyes,  and  nothing  else  but  the  tall  light-house, 
like  a  land-mark,  was  pointing  out  to  me  the  spot 
where  la  bella  Italia  and  my  sweet  home  was. 
This  being  the  mouth  of  the  Adriatic  Sea,  where 
the  waves  are  always  rough  and  heavy,  and 
where  old  Neptune  generally  receives  the  toll 
from  navigators,  feeling  sea-sick,  I  too  was  ob- 
liged to  pay  mine  to  the  sea.\ 


12  ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

It  was  night,  a  clear,  starry,  moonless  Italian 
night.  Eolus  had  retired  ;  Neptune,  having  re- 
ceived the  tribute,  kept  quiet,  and  I,  in  silence, 
'  pacing  on  deck  to  and  fro,  was  shown  by  the 
captain  the  glittering  from  the  light-house  of 
Santa  Maria  di  Leuca.  How  beautiful  it  shone 
to  my  eyes  and  to  my  heart !  I  was  never  sati- 
ated by  gazing  at  it.  Oh,  Hesperia  !  Hesperia ! 
land  of  light,  where  Hesperus  emigrated  to  dwell 
in  thee.  You  are  Hesperus  ;  truly  light  in 
reality !  nothing  but  light  strikes  my  eyes.  I 
watched  it  till  it  grew  fainter  and  fainter.  I 
saluted  it  dearly,  and  bidding  it  a  hearty  farewell, 
and  happiness,  prosperity  and  blessing  to  Italy,  I 
retired  into  my  state-room.\ 

Next  morning  early,  we  were  still  in  sight  of 
Corfu,  one  of  the  seven  Ionian  Islands,  contain- 
ing the  capital  of  the  same  name.  Its  beauty 
has  been  celebrated  by  Homer  in  the  Odyssey, 
singing  the  mildness  of  its  climate  and  the 
fertility  of  the  gardens  of  Alcinous.  The  soil  is 
fertile,  and  grapes  and  fruits  are  abundant  and 
delicious.  It  is  about  forty -five  miles  long, 
and  from  fifteen  to  twenty  wide.*  Behind  it,  we 
could  see  the  mountains  of  Albania.  The  small 
islands  of  Paxo  and  Antipaxo  were  soon  out 
of  sight,  and  we  could  discern  plainly  the  mount- 
ainous and  fertile  island  of  Santa  Maura,  anciently 
Leucade,  so  much  afflicted,  and  ever  liable  to 
earthquakes.  Soon  we  came  in  sight  of  the  beau- 
tiful and  rich,  and  the  largest  Ionian  island, 

*  This  is  the  ancient  Drepanum,  then  Scforia,  and  at  last  Corcyra- 


FSLAND    OF   CANDIA.  13 

Cephalonia,  formerly  Cephallenia,  which  has  four 
cities,  two  hundred  and  three  towns  and  three 
line  ports.  It  lies  opposite  the  Gulf  of  Patrasso 
or  Gulf  of  Lepanto.  The  climate  is  delicious, 
and  the  trees  yield  two  crops  every  year.  Be- 
hind this  is  the  famous  Ithaca,  the  land  of  Ulysses, 
Penelope  and  Telemachus,  celebrated  by  Homer 
and  Fenelon.  We  passed  close  to  the  shores  of 
Morea,  the  ancient  Peloponnesus,  teeming  with  his- 
torical and  mythological  monuments  and  records, 
showing  still  the  sores  of  Turkish  oppression  and 
devastation.  Navarino,  famous  for  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  Turco-Egyptian  fleet  of  two  hundred 
and  fourteen  vessels  by  the  combined  Russian, 
French  and  English  fleets,  was  under  our  eyes, 
and  we  could  see  the  fine  harbor,  whose  deep 
water  is  capable  of  containing  the  largest  men-of- 
war  with  perfect  safety.  We  could  observe 
mountains,  villages,  farms  and  the  finely-culti- 
vated fields,  as  in  a  panorama.  The  most  of  the 
forests  having  been  cut,  it  has  somewhat  deteri- 
orated its  mild  climate.  \ 

One  revolution  of  the  earth,  and  many  of  the 
engine,  brought  us  in  sight  and  under  the  noble 
Island  of  Candia,  the  ancient  Greta.  This  island 
was  blockaded  by  the  Turks,  and  we  passed  at  a 
proper  distance.  The  captain  told  me  that  last 
month  his  steamer  was  fired  upon  by  a  Turkish 
man-of-war,  and  as  the  captain  did  not  stop,  the 
fire  was  continued,  and  did  considerable  damage 
to  the  ship,  and  he  was  obliged  to  stop  and  bear 
down  to  the  man-of-war.  When  the  Turks  found 


14  ARRIVAL   IN    EGYPT. 

out  their  mistake  in  having  taken  her  for  a  block- 
ade-runner, they  offered  an  apology,  and  the 
amount  of  damages  was  immediately  paid  at 
Alexandria.  The  captain  complained  of  the 
Turkish  stupidity  in  not  recognizing  a  steamer 
which  was  passing  Candia  every  week.  Mount 
Ida,  7,670  feet  high,  crowned  with  eternal  snow, 
looked  majestic.  The  war  of  the  Turks  against  the 
Candiotes  was  severe.  It  is  to  be  lamented  that 
that  noble  island,  once  a  gem  of  prosperity  and 
industry,  should  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  worst 
nationx 

Now  the  island  is  deserted  and  desolate,  the 
fields  are  wild,  the  cities  heaps  of  rubbish  ;  little 
or  no  commerce,  and  the  entire  land  a  miserable 
waste.  The  inhabitants,  once  numbering  1,200,000, 
now  are  reduced  to  300,000,  and  so  degraded,  un- 
der the  Ottoman  rule,  that  they  can  hardly  obtain 
the  most  necessary  means  of  subsistence.  As 
Christians,  although  they  are  not  persecuted,  yet 
they  are  oppressed  and  despised.  This  state  of 
things  was  foreseen  in  that  memorable  event  of 
the  17th  century  when  the  Turks  besieged  Can- 
dia. The  noble  defense  of  the  Candiotes,  for  so 
many  years,  presents  a  model  to  the  last  ages  as 
one  of  the  bravest  recorded  in  the  history  of  wars. 
It  proves  what  Christian  courage  could  effect 
against  Turkish  fury  and  superiority  of  numbers. 
Christians  arrived  from  every  part  of  Europe,  and 
many  people  came  expressly  to  study  the  art  of 
war.  Even  the  Pope  sent  troops  to  aid  the  Can- 
diotes, who,  after  many  years  of  struggle,  were 


ISLAND    OF   GOZO.  15 

obliged  to  capitulate  and,  unfortunately,  to  give 
up  the  island  to  the  Turks.  It  was,  however,  the 
effect  of  treachery,  and  not  want  of  valor,  that 
brought  the  noble  Candiotes  to  this  evil.  Would 
to  God  that  this  noble  island  could  become  free 
again  from  the  Turkish  oppressor !  Christians 
are  protected  in  Constantinople  and  in  some  other 
large  cities,  but  in  the  rest  of  Turkey  they  are 
oppressed,  insulted,  and  even  persecuted.\ 

The  persecution  suffered  by  the  Christians  from 
the  Turks  in  Palestine  and  Syria,  a  few  years  ago, 
is  yet  fresh  in  our  memory.  Hundreds  of  them 
were  murdered  in  Damascus,  Beyrout,  and  Judaea. 
Two  years  ago  they  were  threatened  again,  but 
the  Christians,  together  with  the  merchants  of 
Turkey,  armed  themselves  for  self-defense,  which 
precaution  frustrated  the  persecution^ 

This  has  been  the  real  cause  of  the  revolt  of 
the  Candiotes  against  the  Turks  ;  those  barbarous 
hordes  of  heathens  who,  like  a  torrent,  emerging 
from  the  wilderness  and  deserts  of  Arabia,  inun- 
dated several  western  nations,  and,  after  having 
laid  waste  many  cities  and  provinces,  are  suf- 
fered to  occupy  still  a  noble  portion  of  Europe 
and  Asia.\ 

According  to  Homer,  King  Idomeneus  sailed 
from  this  island  to  Ulium  with  eighty  vessels. 
•Crete  was  the  scene  of  many  of  the  adventures  of 
the  gods  and  heroes,  according  to  the  poets. 
Saturn,  and  afterwards  Minos,  reigned  on  this 
island.  We  enjoyed  the  view  of  the  majestic  and 
lofty  Mount  Psiloriti,  the  ancient  Ida,  upon 


16  ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

which  Jupiter  was  bora  and  bred.  The  orig- 
inal name  of  this  island  was  Idcea,  from  Mount 
Ida.  Afterwards  it  was  called  Greta,  and  latterly 
Candia  (Kirid,  in  the  Turkish  language).  The 
capital,  Candia,  is  built  on  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Heraclea.v 

We  passed  the  small  Island  of  Gozo,  and  soon 
were  out  of  sight  of  land.  Next  morning  I  and 
the  bey  were  walking  on  deck.  The  day  was 
beautiful  and  pleasant,  and  the  sea  calm.  We 
spent  our  time  in  observing  the  coast  of  Africa, 
which  was  in  sight  of  us.  Being  opposite  the 
place  where  the  famous  temple  of  Jupiter  Ammon 
stood,  the  bey  told  me  that  he  had  several  times 
wished  to  visit  the  ruins  of  that  magnificent  edi- 
fice, but  never  dared  to  do  it,  because  the  vil- 
lage of  Sywah,  the  ancient  Ammonium,  where  the 
ruins  of  the  temple  are,  is  inhabited  by  a  ferocious 
tribe  of  Arabs,  who  allow  nobody,  not  even  the 
pasha  himself,  to  visit  it.  They  believe  that 
there  are  immense  treasures  concealed  under 
the  temple,  and  that  they  are  not  able  to  find 
them  ;  and  that  strangers,  including  the  Egyp- 
tians, go  to  the  temple  to  search  after  treasures. 
This  tribe  pays  a  tribute  to  the  pasha.\ 

Jupiter  Ammon  was  a  Lybian  deity,  a  son  of  Tri- 
ton ;  or,  according  to  others,  a  son  of  Jupiter  and  a 
sheep.  Some  believe  that  Ammon  was  a  king  of 
Lybia,  whose  wife,  Rhea,  was  sister  to  Saturn, 
and  whose  mistress  was  Amalthea,  by  whom  he 
had  Bacchus.  The  latter  built  this  famous  temple, 
where  oracles  were  given  by  signs  made  by  their 


RIVER   NILE.  17 

priests.  Jupiter  Ammon  was  represented  under 
the  form  of  a  ram  ;  or,  according  to  some,  of  a  man, 
with  a  ram's  head  and  horns.  Alexander,  on  vis- 
iting this  temple,  was  declared  by  the  priests  a 
son  of  the  deity.  Several  learned  antiquarians 
believe  that  Jupiter  Ammon  was  Cham,  the  son  of 
Noali.  It  is  certain  that  Misraim,  second  son  of 
Cham,  settled  in  Egypt,  j 

The  captain,  having  perceived  that  we  could  not 
enter  the  harbor  of  Alexandria,  which  is  difficult 
of  entrance,  had  given  orders  to  "  slack  off 
steam,"  and  when  we  came  in  sight  of  the  city  of 
Alexandria's  light-house,  (not  that  ancient  Pha- 
ros, the  Lantern  of  Ptolomy,  the  eighth  wonder 
of  the  world,  throwing  its  light  far  on  the  bosom 
of  the  sea,  to  guide  the  weary  sailor,)  he  ordered 
the  steamer  backward.  What  a  beautiful  night ! 
We  were  all  on  deck,  contemplating  the  land  of 
Egypt.  A  clear,  starry  sky,  a  brilliant  phos- 
phorescence, kept  our  spirits  in  the  height  of  joy, 
expecting  next  morning  to  step  on  the  land  from 
which  God  called  his  Son  ! — "  Out  of  Egypt  have 
I  called  my  Son" — to  enter  one  of  the  seven 
mouths  of  the  Nile — of  that  river  which  had  been 
the  theatre  of  many  of  the  wonders  of  Moses  ;  to 
go  in  the  country  of  the  Pharaohs  ;  to  walk  into 
the  city  of  the  Ptolomies — a  country  equally  in- 
teresting to  the  Christian,  to  the  scholar,  and  to 
the  antiquarian. \ 

We  left  the  deck  with  reluctance,  and  retired, 
but  early  in  the  morning  we  were  up  and  in  sight 
of  Alexandria.  The  pilot-boat  was  by  the  side  of 


18  ARRIVAL   IN    EGYPT. 

the  steamer,  and  the  Arabs,  with  their  swarthy 
faces,  turbans,  and  peculiar  large  dresses  stream- 
ing in  the  wind,  giving  a  strange  wildness  to  their 
appearance,  made  a  strong  impression  on  my 
mind.  The  celebrated  Pompey's  Pillar,  one  of 
the  monuments  of  Egypt's  proudest  day,  after  a 
lapse  of  more  than  two  thousand  years,  continues 
yet  to  be  one  of  the  landmarks  to  guide  the  sailor 
to  her  fallen  metropolis.  We  passed  in  sight  of  a 
seraglio,  and  many  wind-mills  paraded  before  our 
eyes.  The  Pasha's  palace  came  in  full  view  of  us, 
and  we  soon  cast  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Alexan- 
dria, amongst  a  forest  of  ships  of  every  size- and 
shape.  This  port  was  ornamented  with  vessels 
from  nearly  every  nation,  displaying  their  colors 
to  the  wind  ;  but  it  was  in  vain  that  I  looked  for 
the  ''The  Star  Spangled  Banner."  No  vessel 
from  the  United  States  was  there.  Our  steamer 
was  surrounded  by  small  Arabian  boats,  but  the 
natives  did  not  come  on  board  till  the  health  officer 
gave  permission  to  land.  Now  our  boat  was  tak- 
en as  if  by  assault  by  the  Arabs,  who  were  striv- 
ing to  take  passengers  in  their  small  boats  in  or- 
der to  land  them.  I  was  recommended  by  the 
steward  to  an  Arab  who  agreed  to  land  me  and  my 
baggage  for  two  francs.  I  went  into  the  boat,  but 
found  that  my  baggage  had  been  put  into  an- 
other Arab's  boat.  Presently  a  dispute  ensued 
amongst  the  Arabs  of  the  two  boats.  I  insisted 
that  my  baggage  should  be  put  into  my  boat,  and 
after  much  quarreling,  threatening  and  handling, 
my  baggage,  at  last  was  transferred  into  my  boat  ; 


LANDING    AT    ALEXANDEIA.  19 

but  that  did  not  stop  the  quarreling  amongst  the 
Arabs  ;  it  rather  increased  it.  They  were  very 
near  coming  to  blows,  and  took  hold  of  the  oars 
to  strike  each  other,  but  the  boats  were  soon  out 
of  reach  of  each  other,  yet  their  yelling  was 
louder  and  more  furious.  I  had  kept  quiet  being 
acquainted  with  the  Arabian  tricks.  Before  reach- 
ing the  shore,  I  was  asked  to  pay  the  boatman.  I 
refused  to  do  it  till  I  and  my  baggage  had  been 
landed  on  shore,  and  I  listened  to  none  of  their 
statements  that  it  was  the  custom  to  pay  before- 
hand. I  was  positive  and  cool.  They  asked  me 
how  much  I  would  give  them.  I  gave  them  no 
satisfactory  answer,  i 

We  arrived  at  the  landing  at  the  custom-house 
and  after  some  contention  with  the  Arabs,  who 
wanted  me  to  pay  them  before  my  baggage  was 
put  on  shore,  I  was  allowed  to  land,  but  my  bag- 
gage remained  in  the  boat.  I  knew  that  the 
baggage  was  to  go  to  the  custom-house.  I  was 
directed  into  the  office  to  show  my  passport.  The 
officer  spoke  Italian  to  me,  and  I  believe  he  was 
an  Italian  ;  he  was  very  polite.  He  saw  my  pass- 
port and  said  that  I  could  have  it  back  next  day  ; 
yet  when  he  heard  that  perhaps  I  might  pro- 
ceed to  Cairo  the  same  day,  he  politely  gave  it 
back  after  having  stamped  it.  I  asked  if  there 
was  any  charge  ;  "no  charge/'  he  replied,  in  a 
gentlemanly  manner.  He  gave  me  besides,  a 
small  paper  to  deliver  to  the  officer  at  the  door, 
between  the  passport  office  and  the  custom-house  ; 
it  was  declaration  that  it  was  all  regular.  I  pass- 


20  ARRIVAL   IN    EGYPT.  '  » 

ed  into  the  custom-house,  but  my  baggage  was 
not  there  ;  it  was  still  in  the  boat,  and  my  Arabs 
at  the  door  protested  that  they  would  not  land  it 
unless  I  would  give  them  twenty  francs.  I  re- 
proached them  in  English,  French,  and  Italian  ; 
and  I  told  them  that  we  had  bargained  for  two 
francs,  and  I  would  not  give  them  one  cent  more- 
I  ordered  them  to  land  my  baggage  in  the  cus- 
tom-house, but  they  refused  to  do  so  ;  I  threatened 
then  to  have  them  bastinadoed  ;  but  no  use.  I 
applied  to  the  officer  who  was  sitting  between  the 
passport  office  and  the  custom-house  ;  but  he, 
shrugging  his  shoulders,  made  me  understand 
that  he  had  nothing  to  do  with  it.  I  said  that  they 
were  all  a  set  of  rascals.  I  spoke  in  French  to 
the  custom  officer,  who  was  an  Arab  himself,  and 
I  asked  him,  "  Do  you  know  this  man  ?"  (my  boat- 
man) "Yes,"  he  said,  •'well."  I  replied,  "You 
will  be  a  witness  against  him."  They  tried  to 
compromise  the  affair  by  requesting  me  to  give 
ten  francs.  "  Not  one  cent  more  than  what  I  had 
agreed,"  I  replied.  They  had  commenced  to  sus- 
pect that  I  would  bring  them  before  the  French 
Consul,  and  they  knew  that  the  steward  of  the  Prin- 
cipe di  Carignano  was  witness  to  our  bargain.  In 
the  East  it  is  always  necessary  to  make  a  contract 
beforehand.\ 

A  dragoman,  a  native  of  Malta,  asked  me  if  I 
wanted  to  take  a  carriage  for  the  Hotel  $  Angleterre. 
I  said  that  that  was  the  place  where  I  wanted  to 
stop.  I  told  him  to  see  to  my  baggage,  for  which  I  told 
him  to  give  three  or  four  francs,  if  he  thought  right. 


ARABS.  21 

My  baggage  was  at  once  brought  into  the  custom- 
house, I  gave  a  franc  to  the  custom-house  offi- 
cer, who,  however,  searched  my  baggage  very 
close,  by  even  opening  my  little  side  valise,  where  I 
had  some  sweet  horse-chestnuts  given  to  me  by  the 
Nuns  of  St.  Theresa  in  Gallipolis.  He  told  me  to 
open  a  paper  in  which  each  of  them  was  wrapped. 
I  did  so  and  I  ate  one  of  them,  and  taking  a  hand- 
ful of  them,  I  offered  them  to  the  officer,  which  he 
refused  to  take  ;  then  closing  my  valise,  it  was 
put  on  the  carriage  which  was  standing  at  the 
other  gate.  Now  a  crowd  of  half-naked  Arabs 
commenced  to  cry  for  backslieesh-,  all  claiming  to 
have  taken  my  baggage,  or  in  some  way  or  an- 
other done  me  a  service.  I  expected  to  be  de- 
voured in  a  moment ;  I  gave  a  few  piastres  to 
my  dragoman  to  give  to  those  who  had  taken 
my  baggage,  and  I  rushed  into  the  carriage,  into 
which  the  dragoman  soon  entered  ;  but  the  Arabs 
had  besieged  it  and  were  trying  to  scale  it,  cry- 
ing after  backsheesh.  I  gave  a  little  sprinkling  to 
them,  and  off  we  drove.  The  company  of  the 
Italian  steamers  at  present  has  issued  an  order 
that  first-class  passengers  with  their  baggage 
should  be  landed  on  a  boat  of  the  steamer,  free  of 
charge,  and  this  is  a  very  good  and  necessary  ar- 
rangement. It  saves  them  from  being  much  an- 
noyed and  swindled.  In  Jerusalem  I  saw  a  lady 
who  traveled  alone,  and  on  landing  at  Alexandria 
she  was  so  much  molested  and  surrounded  and 
pushed  by  the  Arabs,  that  she  fell  to  the  ground, 
and  lost  forty  napoleons  which  she  had  in  a  wallet 


22  ARRIVAL  IN  EGYPT. 

in  one  of  her  sleeves.  At  the  gate  of  the  city,  the 
carriage  was  stopped  again  by  another  officer  to 
search  ine.  I  said  that  my  baggage  had  been  in- 
spected. It  was  my  person  that  was  to  be  searched, 
and  being  satisfied  that  nothing  contraband  was  in 
my  pocket,  with  his  hand  he  sounded  my  stomach, 
"What!"  I  exclaimed,  "Is  it  contraband  to 
have  a  stomach  !  or  is  there  in  Egypt  any  particu- 
lar size  fixed  for  it  ?  Are  there  an}"  custom  dues 
to  be  paid  for  it?"  My  dragoman  laughed,  and 
so  did  the  officer.x 

The  city  was  very  muddy,  on  account  of  a 
heavy  rain  which  had  fallen  the  day  before. 
Having  left  the  baggage  at  the  hotel,  we  drove  out 
to  see  the  city.  We  first  went  to  the  palace  of  the 
Pacha,  and,  having  no  permission,  we  entered  by 
giving  some  backsheesh.  The  palace  is  fine,  but  it 
has  nothing  extra.  Its  location  on  the  quay  is 
beautiful,  and  it  contains  a  very  handsome  semi- 
European  suite  of  rooms,  with  magnificent  inlaid 
parquets  ;  it  has  that  half-finished  and  ill-assorted 
look  which  most  of  the  present  buildings  in  Alex- 
andria have.  The  present  city  does  not  occupy 
the  site  of  the  ancient  capital  of  Lower  Egypt ; 
•but  it  lies  between  the  two  harbors  and  the  cele. 
brated  Island  of  Pharos.  We  drove  to  the  so- 
called  Cleopatra's  Needles,  which  are  two  obe- 
lisks of  Thebaic  stone — a  hard,  red  granite,  all 
covered  with  hieroglyphics.  One  obelisk  is  65 
feet  long,  the  other  70.  The  diameter,  at  the 
base,  is  between  7  and  8  feet.  One  was  lying 
down,  and  nearly  covered  with  earth  ;  the  other 


POMPEY'S  PILLAR.  23 

is  standing  on  its  base.  One  has  been  presented 
to  England,  but  it  has  not  yet  been  removed. 
They  formerly  stood  before  the  temple  of  Nep- 
tune at  Heliopolis,  and  were  quarried  in  the 
reign  of  Thothmes  III.,  1495  B.  c.  They  are  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  city  near  the  shore.  The 
Palace  of  Cleopatra  was  built  near  this  place, 
upon  the  walls  facing  the  port.  Some  parts  of 
the  walls  are  yet  visible,  but  nothing  remains  of 
that  magnificent  structure  except  a  heap  of  dust, 
from  which  we  dug  some  small  pieces  of  marble. 
We  drove  to  Pompey's  Pillar,  a  short  distance 
from  the  walls  of  the  city  and  southward  of  it. 
This  monument  was  erected  by  a  governor  of 
Egypt  named  Pompey,  in  honor  of  Diocletian, 
who  besieged  and  took  the  city.  It  is  built  of 
red  granite,  beautifully  polished,  but  shivered  a 
little  on  one  side.  The  shaft,  of  a  single  block, 
is  88  feet  6  inches  high  and  9  feet  in  diameter, 
surmounted  by  a  Corinthian  capital,  with  palm 
leaves  9  feet  high,  resting  upon  a  square  base  of 
about  15  feet  on  each  side.  The  equestrian 
statue  of  Diocletian  on  the  top  is  no  longer  stand- 
ing. The  whole  rests  on  two  layers  of  stone 
bound  together  with  lead,  but  which  has  not  pre- 
vented the  Arabs  from  forcing  out  several  stones 
to  seek  for  imaginary  treasure.  Nothing  can 
equal  the  majesty  of  this  monument.\ 

This  Pillar  is  now  surrounded  by  deserted 
environs,  which  once  formed  a  crowded  part  of  a 
street,  said  to  be  the  first  in  the  world.  This 
street,  2,000  feet  long,  commenced  at  the  gate 


24  ARRIVAL    IN    EGYPT. 

near  the  sea,  and  terminated  at  the  gate  of 
Canopos ;  and  was  decorated  with  magnificent 
temples,  palaces  and  obelisks  of  rare  marbles 
and  porphyry,  which,  at  present,  have  been  car- 
ried to  embellish  Rome  and  Constantinople.  This 
grand  street  was  intersected  by  another  of  the 
same  breadth,  forming  a  great  square  of  half  a 
league  in  circumference  at  this  junction.  Alex- 
ander the  Great  was  the  founder  of  this  city,  382 
years  before  Christ,  The  architect  employed  by 
him  was  the  famous  Dinocratus,  who  built  the 
world-renowned  Temple  of  Diana  in  Ephesus. 
That  emperor,  soon  after  the  fall  of  Tyre,  destined 
it  to  be  the  capital  of  his  empire  and  the  centre 
of  the  commerce  of  the  world.  It  soon  realized 
the  hopes  of  its  founder,  by  becoming  the  em- 
porium, not  only  of  merchandise  and  wealth,  but 
of  science  and  arts.  Its  inhabitants  numbered 
at  least,  310,000,  although  they  are  now  reduced 
to  100,000.\ 

The  palace,  which  projected  beyond  the  prom- 
ontory of  Lochras,  occupied  more  than  a  quarter 
of  the  city.  It  was  the  residence  of  the  Ptole- 
mies, and  each  of  them  added  to  its  beauty.  It 
contained,  within  its  enclosure,  the  Museum,  an 
asylum  for  learned  men,  groves  and  splendid 
buildings,  besides  a  temple  in  which  was  deposit- 
ed the  body  of  Alexander  in  a  gold  coffin,  stolen 
away  afterwards  by  the  infamous  Seleucus  Cibyo- 
factus,  who  substituted  a  glass  one  in  its  place.  Here 
stood  the  world-renowned  Alexandrian  library  ; 
400,000  volumes  were  in  the  Royal  Palace,  and 


ALEXANDRIAN   LIBRARY.  25 

300,000  in  the  Serapion,  the  Temple  of  Jupiter 
Serapis.  The  collection  of  this  librarjr  cost  im- 
mense expense,  labor  and  energy  to  Ptolemy 
Philadelphia.  This  library,  called  by  Livy, 
"  Elegantice  regum  curceque  egregium  opus,"  em- 
braced the  whole  Greek  and  Latin  literature,  of 
which  we  possess  only  fragments.  The  books 
were  transcribed  by  competent  persons  appointed 
for  this  purpose.  The  copies  were  then  handed 
to  the  proprietor,  and  the  original  laid  up  in  the 
library.  The  works  of  Sophocles,  Euripides,  and 
./Eschylus  were  borrowed  from  the  Athenians  by 
Ptolemy  Energetus,  who  returned  them  the  copies 
transcribed  as  beautifully  as  possible,  and  20,000 
pounds  for  the  exchange.  The  larger  portion  of 
this  library  was  burned  during  the  siege  of  Alex- 
andria, by  Julius  Cresar,  but  it  was  replaced  by 
the  library  of  Pergamus,  presented  to  Cleopatra 
by  Anthony.  The  splendid  Temple  of  Jupiter 
Serapis  and  the  library  were  destroyed  by  the 
Arabs  under  Omar  I.,  second  caliph  of  the  Mus- 
sulmans, or,  as  others  say,  by  a  crowd  of  Chris- 
tians led  by  the  Archbishop  Theodosius,  when 
Theodosius  the  Great  ordered  all  ihe  heathen 
temples  to  be  destroyed  throughout  the  Roman 
empire  ;  but  the  probabilities  are,  that  it  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  aforesaid  Caliph  Omar.  It  was 
certainly  an  irreparable  loss  to  science.  The 
museum,  where  so  many  scholars  lived  and  were 
supported ;  where  they  ate  together,  studied  and 
instructed  others,  remained  till  the  time  of  Aure- 
lian,  and  was  destroyed  in  a  civil  commotion, 
ii.— 3 


26  ARRIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

The  city  was  nearly  all  demolished  by  Ptolemy 
Physcon  141  years  before  Christ,  and  all  learned 
men  fled  away.\ 

From  this  period  the  fortunes  of  Alexandria 
were  dimmed  by  feuds  and  scenes  of  carnage  until 
it  was  taken  by  Amron.  Alexandria  fell  and 
rose  several  times  under  different  masters,  but 
its  total  destruction  was  when  it  became  entirely 
subject  to  the  Turks  in  1499,  and  when  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  was  discovered  by  the  Portuguese.\ 

I  saw  the  remains  of  that  famous  watch-tower 
of  Pharos,  built  by  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  in  the 
first  year  of  his  reign.  It  was  a  large,  square 
tower,  of  white  marble,  on  the  top  of  which  fires 
were  kept  constantly  burning  for  the  direction  of 
sailors.  The  architect  of  this  structure  had 
recourse  to  a  stratagem  to  perpetuate  his  name. 
Being  ordered  to  engrave  upon  it  the  following 
inscription  :  "  King  Ptolemy,  to  the  Gods,  the 
Saviours,  for  the  benefit  of  Sailors,'7  instead  of 
the  king's  name  he  substituted  his  own,  and  then 
filling  up  the  hollow  of  the  marble  with  mortar, 
wrote  upon  it  the  above-mentioned  inscription. 
When  time  caused  the  mortar  to  fall  off,  the  fol- 
lowing inscription  appeared  :  "  Sostratus,  the 
Cnidian,  the  son  of  Dexiphanus,  to  the  Gods,  the 
Saviours  of  Sailors."/1 

But  my  greatest  pleasure  in  looking  at  the 
Island  of  Pharos  was  because  it  was  here  that, 
by  order  of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  seventy  of 
the  Jews  belonging  to  a  colony  transplanted  to 
Alexandria  312  years  before  Christ,  and  who  there- 


CHURCH    OF   ST.    ATHANASIUS.  2 

fore  had  become  well  acquainted  with  the  Greek 
language,  and  here  called  Hellenists,  made  the  well- 
known  Greek  Translation  of  the  Old  Testament 
under  the  name  of  the  Septuaginta.  These  seventy 
translators  were  separated  from  each  other,  yet, 
through  the  operation  of  divine  inspiration,  their 
versions  were  word  for  word  the  same./ 

In  Alexandria  I  visited  the  Latin  Bishop,  and 
several  times  I  celebrated  Mass  in  the  Church  of 
St.  Catharine,  on  the  spot  where  she  received 
the  crown  of  martyrdom.  A  partial  Indulgence 
is  attached  to  the  place.  Another  partial  Indul- 
gence is  attached  to  the  Church  of  St.  Mark, 
where  this  holy  Apostle  and  Evangelist  had 
preached  and  received  the  palm  of  martyrdom. 
His  body  was  buried  by  the  Christians  at  JBucoles 
in  Alexandria,  and  till  the  eighth  century  honored 
in  a  marble  tomb  in  a  church.  About  this  time  the 
Yenitians  stole  it  and  carried  it  to  Yenice.\ 

On  board  the  Italian  steamer,  I  inquired  from 
the  Bey  whether  in  Alexandria  there  were  any 
remains  of  the  Church  of  St.  Athanasius.  He  in- 
formed me  .that  over  forty  years  ago  he  had  seen 
the  porch  of  the  church,  and  four  pillars  were 
yet  standing  ;  but  he  was  not  able  to  tell  whether 
they  existed  yet  or  not.  He,  however,  gave  me 
directions  how  to  look  for  that  locality,  and  in 
company  with  my  friend,  Rev.  Padre  Emmanuel, 
we  made  a  search,  and  we  found  it  at  a  short  dis- 
tance west  of  the  modern  fort,  in  the  mid  lie  of  the 
city.  The  marble  bases  of  the  four  pillars  are  yet 
standing  up,  forming  a  porch  about  60  feet  long. 


28  ARRIVAL    IN    EGYPT. 

The  glories  of  this  great  city  are  represented  by 
ruins  and  heaps  of  debris  in  which  small  pieces 
of  verde-antique,  precious  marbles  and  mosaics 
are  constantly  found.\ 

The  catacombs  are  situated  about  two  miles 
from  the  city,  on  the  edge  of  the  Lybian  Desert, 
and  near  the  shore  of  the  sea.  They  are  not  now 
approached  by  the  great  entrance,  because  the 
Turks  have  nearly  destroyed  it  with  gunpowder. 
An  excavation  has  been  formed  through  to  the 
tombs,  and  it  is  the  present  place  from  which 
they  can  be  entered.  On  one  of  the  walls  of  a 
chamber,  which  now  lies  open  to  the  air,  a  rude 
fresco  is  noticed,  representing  a  cross,  with  a  gar- 
land and  flowers,  springing  from  the  arms, 
flanked  by  two  candlesticks./ 

It  is  evident  that  these  early  Christian  remains 
mark  the  former  site  of  an  altar  upon  a  martyr's 
grave.  The  chambers  are  hewn  out  of  the  coarse 
rock  called  carparus  or  tufo.  The  niches  for  the 
mummies  are  wider  than  those  generally  visited 
in  Egypt,  so  that  several  mummies  could  be  laid 
in'  them  side  by  side.  These  catacombs  present 
nothing  interesting.  The  Arabs  and  Turks  have 
explored  a  considerable  part  of  them  for  the  sake 
of  plunder,  destroying  every  monument,  in  order 
to  find  treasure  ;  but  finding  that  it  was  too  much 
work,  and  that  it  would  not  pay,  they  have  de- 
sisted from  any  further  vandalism.  What  is 
called  the  state  chamber  is  a  circular  room, 
about  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  with  three  recesses, 
one  at  each  side  of  the  door  and  one  opposite.  It 


ALEXANDRIA.  29 

has  a  vaulted  roof,  and  its  proportions  are  ele- 
gant. The  recesses  are  filled  with  niches  for  the 
bodies  of  the  dead,  and  bones  can  be  seen  scat- 
tered about  the  ground.  There  are  several  cham- 
bers half  filled  with  sand.  They  are  supposed  to 
extend  many  miles  under  the  surface  of  the  desert, 
and  perhaps  even  under  the  ancient  city.  Near 
this  place,  on  the  edge  of  the  shore,  there  are 
chambers  cut  in  the  rocks,  called  Cleopatra's 
Baths.  They  are  not  interesting.\ 

The  present  Alexandria  can  be  styled  an  Ori- 
ental European  city.  It  has  some  fine  streets  and 
buildings.  The  Frank  Piazza  is  handsome,  con- 
taining a  public  garden  in  the  middle,  ornamented 
with  trees,  flowers,  and  fountains.  The  Pacha  ex- 
ercises the  office  of  a  merchant,  and  attends  to 
making  money.  He  rents  houses,  trades,  and  de- 
stroys every  ancient  monument,  when  he  needs 
the  materials  for  his  own  use.  The  post-office  is 
remarkable  for  being  divided  into  so  man}'  de- 
partments, according  to  the  letters  of  the  Roman 
alphabet.  Money  of  every  nation  is  current,  but 
at  a  discount  ;  except  the  Italian,  French,  and 
English  coins,  which  are  received  everywhere  in 
Alexandria,  and  throughout  Egypt,  at  par,  except 
by  the  government.  The  English  and  French, 
and,  I  believe,  now  even  the  Italians,  have  their 
own  post-offices,  kept  by  their  respective  consuls, 
where  only  their  national  money  is  received  for 
postage ;  other  money  discounted.  Even  the 
Egyptian  money  is  discounted  in  the  foreign  post- 
offices  at  Alexandria,  which  surprised  me  very 


30  ARRIVAL   IN    EGYPT. 

much,  as  the  Egyptian  coins  should  be  received  at 
par  everywhere  in  Egypt.\ 

In  one  of  my  walks  out  of  the  city,  I  visited 
the  Catholic  cemetery,  which  is  very  well  laid 
out,  kept  properly,  and  has  also  a  chapel. 
Amongst  the  graves  I  observed  a  small  wooden 
cross,  where  I  read.  "Rev.  Mr.  McGuire,  from 
Missouri,  aged  30  years,  and  died  in  1856. "  My 

friend,  Rev. ,  related  to  me  the  sad  story  of 

this  American  missionary.  He  had  landed  in 
Alexandria,  in  order  to  take  a  steamer  for  the 
Holy  Land.  I  am  not  aware  in  what  hotel  he 
stopped,  but  he  made  himself  too  familiar  with  a 
Maltese,  who  offered  to  accompany  him  through 
the  city.  Perhaps  he  was  not  able  to  speak 
any  of  the  languages  used  in  Alexandria,  and 
willingly  accepted  the  services  of  that  Mal- 
tese, who  spoke  English  well.  Father  Mc- 
Guire did  not  suspect  that  he  was  falling  into  the 
hands  of  an  assassin.  The  Maltese  and  Greeks 
are  considered  the  worst  characters  in  Egypt 
and  Asia  Minor,  and  are  not  to  be  trusted.  There 
are,  of.  course,  some  noble  exceptions  ;  no  doubt 
of  it.  Accompanied  by  this  rascal,  disguised  in 
the  guise  of  a  friend,  he  visited  the  city,  and  per- 
haps he  made  some  show  of  money.  It  is  a  bad 
plan  for  a  traveler  to  make  a  display  of  money 
or  jewelry.  Many  have  lost  their  lives  on  this  ac- 
count. He  wanted  to  be  shaved,  and  the  Maltese 
offered  to  bring  him  to  a  barber,  and  so  he  did. 
The  barber  was  shaving  another  person,  and  bade 
him  take  a  seat  till  he  had  done.  The  Maltese 


FATHER   MCGUIRE.  31 

said  something  to  the  barber,  in  a  language  per- 
haps Arab,  which  the  unfortunate  Father  Mo 
Guire  could  not  understand.  The  barber,  per- 
haps, was  a  Maltese  himself.  They  offered  him 
a  cup  of  coffee,  which  he  accepted.  The  cof- 
fee was  drugged.  He  soon  lost  his  senses,  was 
robbed  and  pitched  into  the  street,  where  he  was 
found  and  picked  up  by  an  Egyptian  policeman, 
who,  learning  that  he  was  a  Frank,  carried  him  to 
the  Catholic  hospital  of  the  Latin  Patriarch,  in  an 
insensible  condition.\ 

It  is  not  prudent,  in  the  East,  to  accept  food  or 
drink  in  any  house,  unless  they  are  friends  and 
persons  well  known,  A  stranger  should  select 
a  good  hotel :  there  he  can  rest,  without  fear, 
and  every  information  needed  can  be  got  at  the 
hotel.  The  respective  consuls  should  be  applied 
to  for  information,  direction,  and  safety.  Travel- 
ers also  are  used  to  seek  information  from  bank- 
ers on  whom  they  hold  letters  of  credit  or  circu- 
lar notes.  During  my  stay  in  Alexandria,  nearly 
every  morning  some  European  was  found,  mur- 
dered in  the  night,  on  the  streets.  Two  Romans 
were  found  assassinated  one  Sunday  morning. 
In  boarding  and  private  houses  there  is  little  or 
110  safety  for  life  or  property.  For  these  reasons 
the  Franciscan  friars  have  consented,  in  the  East, 
to  lodge  pilgrims  and  travelers,  of  every  denom- 
ination, and  from  every  country,  and  those  truly 
benevolent  monks — the  so  much  abused  and  slan- 
dered monks — require  no  payment  for  their  lodg- 
ing and  meals.  Every  thing  is  given  gratuitous- 
ly, for  the  love  of  God  and  of  man.\ 


32  ARRIVAL    IN    EGYPT. 

Poisoning  is  not  unfrequent  in  the  East.  An 
Italian  ph}Tsician  told  me,  in  Jerusalem,  that  he 
never  accepted  any  thing  to  eat  or  drink  in  any 
place,  not  even  in  the  houses  of  his  patients 
whom  he  was  visiting,  for  fear  of  being  poi- 
soned.\ 

The  best  medical  attendance  was  procured,  but 
it  was  too  late.  Eev.  Father  McGuire  recovered 
his  senses,  but  remembered  nothing,  except  that 
he  went  with  a  Maltese  to  a  barber's  shop  to  be 
shaved,  where  he  had  accepted  a  cup  of  coffee. 
The  doctor  informed  him  of  his  condition,  but  he 
would  not  believe.  The  unfortunate  missionary 
was  a  stout,  healthy  young  man,  full  of  life,  and 
could  not  realize  his  true  state.  He  remarked 
that  he  would  soon  be  well,  and  that,  knowing  his 
strong  constitution,  he  was  sure  of  recovering. 
The  missionary  at  the  hospital,  a  Franciscan  friar, 
whom  I  saw  personally  at  the  Franciscan  convent 
of  St.  Catharine,  advised  him  to  prepare  himself 
for  death,  arid  receive  the  last  sacraments  of  the 
Church.  Oh.  what  cruel  news  for  poor  Father 
McGuire,  to  die  amongst  strangers,  in  a  foreign, 
far  distant  land,  far  from  his  relations  and 
friends !  He  would  not  be  persuaded  that  he 
was  so  ill.  His  desire  of  returning  to  his  mis- 
sion buoyed  up  his  spirits,  and  he  said  to  his 
spiritual  adviser  that  there  was  no  need  of  pre- 
paring himself  for  death,  and  that  he  would  soon 
be  well.\ 

11  My  dear  brother,"  said  the  Franciscan  father, 
"I  would  not  have  advised  you  to  prepare  your- 


FATHER   MCGUIRE.  33 

self  for  death,  if  you  were  not  in  reality  near 
it.  You  are  a  priest,  like  myself ;  we  both  know 
what  it  is  to  be  far  from  our  country  and  friends ; 
yet  I  cannot  let  you,  my  brother,  die  without  the 
sacraments.  I  feel  for  your  sad  case  ;  it  is  hard, 
very  hard  ;  but  it  is  my  duty,  my  earnest  duty,  to 
make  you  acquainted  with  your  true  condition. 
I  have  been  notified  by  the  doctor  that  you  can 
hardly  live  till  to-morrow.  If  you  have  any  thing 
which  you  want  me  to  do  for  you,  or  wish  to  write 
to  your  family  and  friends,  let  us  do  it  at  once, 
while  you  have  time."/ 

Father  McGuire,  like  a  good  priest  and 
Christian,  resigned  himself  to  his  fate.  He 
offered  his  life  a  sacrifice  to  Him  to  whose 
glorious  tomb  he  was  making  a  pilgrimage. 
Like  Moses,  he  was  not  permitted  to  enter  the 
promised  land,  but  unlike  him,  he  was  not  al- 
lowed to  see  it,  not  even  at  a  distance  ;  yet, 
after  the  example  of  that  holy  patriarch,  he  sub- 
mitted his  will  to  the  will  of  the  Almighty.  His 
merciful  and  good  God  wished  soon  to  introduce 
him  into  the  true  promised  land,  of  which  Pales- 
tine was  only  a  figure,  and  although  he  did  not 
walk  into  Jerusalem,  the  City  of  God,  yet  he  was 
invited  to  go  into  the  New  Jerusalem,  the  home 
of  the  living  deity,  from  which  He  descended  to  be 
born  in  Bethlehem,  and  to  which  He  ascended  after 
His  glorious  resurrection  from  the  tomb  in  Jeru- 
salem. He  said  that  he  possessed  a  little  property 
in  Missouri,  which  he  wanted  to  give  to  his  parents 
in  Ireland,  who  stood  in  need  of  it.  The  United 


34  AREIVAL   IN   EGYPT. 

States  consul  was  called,  and  he  made  his  last 
will,  which  was  sent  to  America.  He  received 
the  last  sacraments,  and  the  next  day  died,  in 
a  foreign  land,  far  from  any  of  his  relatives  or 
friends.v 

This  sad  "case  made  a  strong  impression  on  me. 
I  knelt  upon  his  grave  ;  I  felt  it  an  act  of  duty 
to  pray  for  the  repose  of  his  soul.  Perhaps  I 
was  the  first  and  the  only  one,  coming  from  the 
same  country,  America,  one  of  his  brethren  in 
the  ministry,  to  look  for  his  grave  and  kneel  upon 
it.  When  that  half  rotten  cross  will  crumble  to 
dust,  Father  McGruire's  grave  will  be  forgotten  for 
ever.  During  my  pilgrimage.  I  often  meditated 
on  this  sad  event,  thinking  that  that  might  also 
be  my  case.\ 

\The  Hotel  d'Angleterre  is  a  fine  and  well- 
attended  place.  I  had  made  my  bargain  for  12 
francs  a  day,  including  every  thing,  even  wines 
twice  a  day,  at  dinner  and  supper.  In  the  after- 
noon, I  drove  to  the  station.  My  ticket  for 
Cairo  cost  30  francs,  including  what  extra  bag- 
gage I  had  in  my  possession,  above  the  number 
of  pounds  of  luggage  allowed  to  first-class  pas 
sengers  on  Turkish  rail  ways  A 


CHAPTER  II. 

GRAND     CAIRO. 

DEPARTURE    FROM    ALEXANDRIA THE   RAMADAN ARRIVAL   AT    CAIRO GRAND 

CAIRO ORIENTAL    MANNERS EXTERMINATION  OF  THE  MAMELUKES JOUSSOUF 

PALACE THE    CITADEL THE  MOSQUE   OF    THE  PACHA  MEHEMED    ALI PALACE 

OF  ISMAIL  PACHA,  GRAND  VIZIER — JOSEPH^   WELL — RETURN  OF   THE  P1LGEIMS 

FROM    MECCA MOSQUE  OF  SULTAN    HASSAN EXCURSION    ON    DONKEYS  TO  THE 

PYRAMIDS — CROSSING  THE  NILE.\  • 

\  THE  road  from  Alexandria  to  Cairo  does  not 
possess  any  striking  interest.  The  land  being 
the  delta  of  the  Nile,  was  flat  and  muddy  on  ac- 
count of  the  recent  inundation  of  that  river,  which 
although  having  retreated  to  its  usual  bed  at  the 
proper  time,  yet  the  country  was  wet,  and  many 
swamps  could  be  observed  along  the  road.  A 
few  romantic  looking  and  mud-built  small  Ara- 
bian villages  could  be  seen,  sheltered  by  groves 
of  palm  trees  ;  the  entire  delta  was  intersected 
by  a  net- work  of  canals  carrjnng  the  water  of  the 
river  to  distant  villages.  Engines  moved  by 
donkeys,  mules  or  buffaloes  were  drawing  water 
from  below  by  a  chain  of  buckets  placed  paral- 
lel two  and  two,  and  tied  with  branches  of  vines. 
They  descend  bottom  up,  go  through  the  water  at 
the  bottom  of  the  well,  rise  up  full,  and  empty 

(35) 


36 


GRAND    CAIRO. 


into  a  large  tank.  This  machine  is  just  like  that 
used  here  in  cleaning  harbors,  of  which  the 
Yankees  claim  to  be  the  inventors,  and  they 
have  obtained  a  patent.  This  machine  is  very 
common  in  Egypt  and  in  Southern  Italy,  and  it 
has  been  in  use  from  time  immemorial.  Be- 
fore the  setting  of  the  sun,  I  saw  the  Arabs  mak- 
ing their  ablutions,  washing  their  faces,  arms  and 
legs ;  then  turning  themselves  towards  Mecca, 
perform  the  evening  prayer.  It  is  edifying  to 
see  them  either  on  the  roads  or  in  the  yards,  on 
the  tops  of  the  houses,  on  the  steamers,  in  a  crowd 
or  a  solitary  place,  stopping  everything,  spread- 
ing their  praying  carpet  when  they  have  it,  or 
on  the  ground,  if  they  have  no  carpet,  which  they 
usually  carry  folded  under  their  arms.  In  com- 
mencing their  prayers  they  stand  up  as  if  enter- 
ing into  a  deep  meditation  ;  they  sign  themselves 
after  the  Turkish  manner  of  salutation,  which  is 
much  like  the  Schismatic  Greek  sign  of  the  cross  ; 
they  turn  their  eyes  toward  Mecca  and  then  cast 
themselves  down  bowing  the  head  ;  then  they 
make  two  or  three  profound  inclinations,  and  fall 
on  their  knees  touching  the  earth  with  their 
foreheads  once  or  twice,  and  sometimes  more  ; 
then  rise  up  at  once  as  in  a  profound  contem- 
plation ;  repeat  anew  the  inclinations  and  down 
they  go  again,  touching  the  ground  with  their 
foreheads  as  before.  This  is  repeated  many 
times  according  to  their  devotion.  They  seem 
to  be  in  good  faith.  The  Arabs  are  a  religious 
people  and  inclined  to  a  pious,  devout  life.  The 


ARAB   DEVOTION.  37 

V 

fast  of  the  Ramadan  is  observed  by  them  very 
strictly.  I  was  amongst  them  during  the  moon  of 
January,  which  is  the  Ramadan  moon.  They 
eat  and  drink  nothing  from  the  rising  of  the  sun 
to  its  setting,  which  is  announced  by  a  cannon, 
when  it  can  be  found  ;  then  they  take 'their  meals 
arid  commence  to  sing  and  pray  in  the  Mosques 
which  are  thrown  open  the  entire  month,  and 
the  minarets  are  illuminated  every  night.  Dur- 
ing the  Ramadan,  the  Turks  are  hardly  able  to 
work  or  transact  business  on  account  of  their 
fasting,  watching  and  praying.  These  public, 
ordinary  and  earnest  recognitions  of  religion, 
however  false  it  may  be,  excited  in  me  feelings 
to  excuse  the  exhibition  by  individuals  of  fa- 
naticism and  hatred  towards  Christians.  It  is 
sad  and  painful  to  see  so  many  thousands  held  in 
the  bonds  of  the  devil,  abstaining  from  many 
lawful  things  forbidden  them,  and  practicing 
many  most  unlawful  deeds  permitted  and  en- 
joined. The  immorality  and  uncharitableness  of 
these  poor  people  is  a  striking  sight  when  coupled 
to  their  religious  doctrine  ;  an  immoral  and  un- 
charitable life  is  the  result  of  their  very  religion. 
What  a  frightful  and  diabolical  parody  of  relig- 
ious practices?  Mohammed  knew  human  nature 
well,  and  he  had  studied  the  Arabian  inclinations 
and  disposition  to  perfection. \ 

We  arrived  at  Cairo  about  10  p.  M.,  and  I 
drove  to  the  Hotel  du  Nile,  which  I  found  comfort- 
able, clean  and  having  a  good  table.  1  made 
a  bargain  for  twelve  francs  a  day  including 


38  GEAND    CAIEO. 

everything  except  wines  and  candles.  I  think 
that  the  proprietor  and  officers  of  this  hotel  were 
all  Catholics.  The  first  visit  I  made  was  to  the 
American  Consul — a  fine  old  gentleman,  well 
educated,  learned,  and  a  good  Catholic.  He  had 
printed  in  Italy  a  fine  large  work  about  the 
Egyptian  antiquities  and  language.  He  was  an 
Italian  by  birth,  and  attended  Mass  every  day 
and  approached  the  Sacraments  several  times  in 
the  month.  He  introduced  me  to  the  Franciscan 
Convent,  where  I  said  Mass  often.  In  Cairo  I 
was  surprised  to  find  out  that  the  Italian  tongue 
was  more  used  than  any  other  European  language. 
Few  understand  French,  but  many  speak  Italian, 
and  every  body,  even  the  Arabs,  understand  some 
of  it.  I  was  one  Sunday  in  the  church  and  was 
surprised  to  hear  a  sermon  in  the  Italian  lan- 
guage .\ 

Grand  Cairo,  called  El-Kaliireli,  (victorious,) 
and  Musr  by  the  natives,  was  founded  by  the 
Arab  conquerors  of  Egypt,  970  B.  c.  It  is  situ- 
ated near  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile,  130  miles 
from  Alexandria  and  90  from  Suez,  and  contains 
300,000  inhabitants ;  Arabs  or  Mohammedans, 
Copts,  Christians,  Mamelukes,  Greeks,  Syrians, 
Armenians,  Jews,  and  natives  of  various  coun- 
tries of  Europe.  In  size,  it  is  second  only  to 
Constantinople  in  Turkey.  Old  Cairo  is  consid- 
ered a  separate  town  and  so  also  Boulak  which 
is  the  harbor  of  Grand  Cairo.  The  city  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall ;  and  the  sands  of  the  desert 
approach  it  on  every  side.  Every  gate  (and 


GRAND    CAIRO.  39 

there  are  31)  except  that  at  Boulak,  opens  on  a 
sandy  waste.  Yet  many  fine  gardens  are  situated 
around  the  city,  which  are  continually  irrigated  with 
the  waters  of  the  Nile.  Cairo  is  eminently  Orien- 
tal ;  its  interior  presents  a  bustling  and  anima- 
ted scene  of  traffic  in  which  Oriental  manners 
and  appearances  are  correctly  preserved,  and 
excepting  Damascus,  no  other  great  city  in  the 
East  exhibits  to  the  eye  of  the  stranger  the 
poetry  and  romance  of  the  "Arabian  Nights.77 
The  influence  of  the  West  has  not  destroyed  the 
charm  of  Oriental  costumes  and  manners.  It  is 
very  striking  to  see  streaming  from  the  gate, 
among  a  busy  crowd,  a  long  procession  of  solemn 
camels,  which  with  nose  erect,  thread  their  noise- 
less way  ;  there  an  old  tall  Turk  riding  on  a 
doiikey,  which  in  Egypt  are  the  smallest  of  the 
species,  having  his  legs  within  a  few  inches 
from  the  ground,  accompanied  by  a  half  naked 
Arab  boy  who  always  bothers  his  donkey,  bela- 
boring the  poor  animal  and  with  a  sharp  stick, 
poking  it  in  the  ribs  ;  there  you  see  the  grave 
Copt,  the  wily  Greek,  the  solemn  Armenian,  the 
silent  Bedouin.  There  dashes  on  horseback  in 
full  gallop,  an  ornamented  man  who  wants  to  ap- 
pear somebody,  making  his  way  through  groups 
of  loaded  dromedaries,  stubborn  donkeys  and 
crowds  of  people  surrounding  clamorous  quacks  ; 
there  emerges  the  harem  of  some  rich  Turk, 
eight  or  ten  fat  women  on  horseback  enveloped 
in  large  black  silk  wrappers  and  preceded  by 
a  black  eunuch  ;  there  you  see  other  women  on 


40  GRAND    CAIRO. 

donkeys,  whom  I  first  took  for  masqueraders,  and 
afterwards  for  nuns,  and  accompanied  by  half 
naked  boys.x 

I  remarked  in  the  East,  that  the  habits  of 
friars,  architecture  of  convents,  mitres  and 
other  episcopal  dresses  and  ceremonies,  etc., 
have  almost  all  been  taken  from  Arabian,  Be- 
douin, Persian  and  other  Oriental  manners.  The 
women  dress  almost  like  nuns,  they  wear  long 
black  silk  wrappers,  if  they  belong  to  high  fami- 
lies, otherwise  they  have  it  made  of  wool  or  cot- 
ton of  blue  or  other  colors.  Rich  women  wear  a 
red  dress  under  the  wrapper,  their  faces  are  sur- 
rounded by  that  white  wrapper  called  by  the  nuns 
succanno.  The  patience  (a  kind  of  scapular), 
instead  of  hanging  from  the.  neck  or  bosom,  is 
suspended  from  under  the  eyes,  and  is  fastened 
by  a  little  joint,  which  covers  the  nose,  to  a  string 
of  napoleons  or  trinkets,  which  forms  a  kind  of 
crown  on  the  head.  That  little  joint  which  cov- 
ers the  nose,  sometimes  is  covered  with  a  row  of 
napoleons  or  sovereigns  (French  or  English  gold 
coins).  This  scapular  or  veil  is  of  a  white  color 
when  it  is  worn  by  wealthy  women  and  by  the 
aristocratic  class  ;  it  is  of  a  black  color  for  the 
rest  of  the  women.  Girls  do  not  wear  any  veil, 
and  prostitutes  are  not  allowed  to  cover  their 
faces.  This  is  the  same  custom  that  existed  in 
the  time  of  Abraham,  who  in  Gerara  made  Sarah 
wear  no  veil  in  order  to  appear  to  be  his  sister 
and  unmarried  ;  but  Abimelech  gave  him  one 
thousand  pieces  of  silver  to  purchase  a  veil  for 
SarahX 


ORIENTAL   CUSTOMS.  41 

Many  Turks  and  some  Arabs  have  a  string  of 
beads  in  their  hands,  or  in  their  pockets,  and  some 
wear  them  suspended  from  their  belts.  I  took 
them  for  Catholics,  and  very  pious  ones  too  ;  but 
I  was  informed  by  my  dragoman  that  they  were 
Turks  and  Arabs,  all  Mohammedans,  who,  espe- 
cially during  the  ^Ramadan,  kill  time  by  passing 
beads  from  one  part  of  the  string  to  the  other, 
and  they  often  measure  the  time  they  have  to 
remain  fasting  till  the  setting  of  the  sun.\ 

In  the  squares  of  the  city  you  can  study  the 
most  remarkable  features  of  Oriental  manners. 
You  see  dragomans  of  every  color,  shape  and 
dress,  quarreling  with  donkey  owners,  who  are 
very  numerous,  and  press  you  to  engage  their 
services  ;  they  are  clamorous  and  back  their 
donkeys  to  induce  you  to  jump  on  them.  You  see 
mountebanks  surrounded  by  crowds  of  people  ; 
snake  charmers,  jugglers  performing  wonders  ; 
dogs  and  monkeys  playing  circuses,  dancing  and 
begging  ;  dealers  in  knives,  handkerchiefs,  tur- 
bans, relics,  antiquities,  stones,  and  many  curi- 
osities. Dancing  girls,  although  forbidden  in 
Cairo,  can  be  observed  surrounded  by  numerous 
Arabs,  who  gaze  at  them  attentively.  There  you 
see  the  miserable  Santons,  the  Arab  saints,  with 
a  few  scanty  rags  on  their  breasts  and  shoulders, 
the  rest  of  their  bodies  perfectly  naked  ;  there 
also  are  the  swarthy  wild-looking  Bedouins  of 
the  desert  with  a  rope  round  the  crown  of  the 
head.  At  Jerusalem  I  often  saw  a  Santon 
entirely  naked,  except  a  narrow  bandage  around 
ii.— 3 


42  GRAND   CAIRO. 

his  loins,  begging  ;  but  he  excited  in  me  disgust, 
and  I  blushed  to  look  on  such  a  disgrace  to 
humanity,  walking  publicly  in  the  square  near 
the  town  of  David.  All  at  once  a  fine  carriage 
dashes  up  the  square,  and  thirty  or  forty  yards 
in  advance  of  it  runs  at  full  speed  a  splendidly 
dressed  runner,  waving  his  silver  rod,  and  shout- 
ing, to  make  way,  "  OJia  !  oka!  sche  malakl  sche 
minak  !  (u  Take  care  !  keep  to  your  right,  keep 
to  your  left.")\ 

The  streets  are  narrow,  irregular,  with  a  hun- 
dred shapeless  projections,  and  unpaved.  The 
principal  streets  have  gates,  which  are  closed  in 
the  night  to  prevent  disturbance.  They  are  open- 
ing at  present  a  central  street,  wide  and  straight, 
and  for  this  purpose  are  demolishing  houses  and 
every  thing  coming  in  their  way.  The  bazars 
are  very  oriental  ;  some  of  them  are  hardly 
eight  or  ten  feet  square,  presenting  to  the  street 
a  large  window,  which  is  the  door  ;  and  there,  sit- 
ting cross-legged,  the  Arab  or  Turk  sells,  eats, 
drinks,  and  takes  his  siesta  at  noon.  The  houses 
are  of  stone  or  brick,  and  solidly  built ;  they  are 
two  stories  high,  and  many  nearly  meet  at  the 
top,  but  they  are  gloomy.  They  have  large  and 
uncovered  yards,  some  ornamented  with  fountains 
and  statues  ;  the  windows  and  principal  doors 
open  into  the  yards.  The  doors  of  the  houses 
are  large  and  massive.  Every  variety  of  pointed, 
round  and  horse-shoe  arches  is  to  be  seen  in  por- 
tals and  windows,  which  are  well  ornamented 
with  fine  medallions,  having  wooden  locks  and 


ORIENTAL   CUSTOMS.  43 

ivory  knockers.  The  perspective  of  richly  carved 
wooden  latticed  oriental  windows  produce  the 
prettiest  effect,  looking  down  the  narrow  streets. 
The  yards  are  generally  the  reception  rooms  for 
the  men  ;  the  women  dwell  in  the  second  stories. 
The  roofs  are  flat  and  of  stone  ;  there  the  families 
assemble  to  enjoy  the  coolness  of  the  evening.\ 

The  city  is  divided  into  several  quarters,  which 
are  the  Copt,  the  Jews,  and  the  Frank.  Under 
the  last  name,  they  mean  all  Europeans.  They 
are  closed  at  night,  and  a  keeper  is  appointed  at 
each  gate,  to  open  it  to  every  person  carrying  a 
lantern.  There  are  no  street  lamps  in  the  East- 
ern cities.  In  a  climate  so  delightful  a  great 
part  of  the  business  is  carried  on  in  the  streets. 
At  night  I  have  seen  Arabs  taking  their  movable 
beds,  which  are  a  kind  of  large  cages  of  small 
branches  of  trees,  two  or  three  feet  high.  They 
stretch  some  clothes  on  it,  or  a  mattress,  and 
stretching  themselves,  go  to  sleep  covered  by  a 
blanket.  They  put  this  bed  before  the  door  of 
their  shops,  and  I  think  they  are  hired  to  do  so 
in  order  to  watch  the  shops.  The  Egyptians  are 
frugal  and  temperate.  I  have  seen  them  running 
and  shouting  all  the  entire  day,  either  as  runners 
before  a  carriage,  or  accompanying  their  donkeys 
for  miles  and  miles  ;  yet  they  drink  nothing  else 
but  the  water  of  the  Nile,  which  is  sweet  and 
healthy.\ 

The  great  majority  of  the  Egyptian  Arabs  are 
husbandmen,  and  their  social  condition  is  of  a 
very  low  grade.  The  Armenians  and  Jews  are 


44  GRAND   CAIRO. 

generally  bankers  and  money-changers.  The 
Copts  dwell  in  towns,  and  are  employed  in  offices 
of  trust.  The  others  are  generally  merchants. 
They  make  no  pretension  to  cleanliness,  and  to 
see  them  handling  articles  of  food  with  dirty 
hands  is  really  revolting.  I  have  seen  them  put- 
ting their  hands  into  vases  full  of  milk,  after  they 
had  already  been  soiled  with  sand  and  dirt  fly- 
ing in  the  streets,  which,  being  unpaved,  on 
windy  days  are  enveloped  in  clouds  of  dirty 
dust.  Yet,  eatable  articles,  such  as  vegetables, 
meats,  sweet-meats,  fruit,  etc.,  are  kept  uncovered. 
It  is  true  that  in  nearly  all  business  streets  the 
small  spots  of  visible  sky  are  shut  out  by  mats,  \ 
awnings,  and  boards,  to  shelter  from  the  sun  the 
streets  and  the  crowds  that  assemble  there  ;  yet, 
they  do  not  hinder  the  dust  from  flying  either  by 
the  winds,  or  by  the  motion  of  people,  animals, 
carts,  carriages,  horses,  donkeys  and  dogs.  The 
last  are  very  numerous,  and  live  in  quarters.  If 
any  dog  should  trespass  on  the  quarter  of  another 
dog,  he  would  be  considered  by  the  other  dogs  as 
an  intruder,  and  treated  as  such.  He  at  once 
feels  his  wrong  position,  and  beats  a  hasty  retreat, 
followed  by  his  canine  adversaries  ;  and  as  soon 
as  he  reaches  his  own  quarter,  feeling  himself 
master,  he  takes  the  offensive,  and  the  other  dogs 
fly  for  their  lives. \ 

One  day,  riding  on  a  donkey  and  accompanied 
by  a  dragoman,  I  visited  the  citadel.  I  passed 
through  a  gate  memorable  for  the  slaughter  of 
the  Mamelukes.  Mehemet  Ali,  in  1811,  having 


JOUSSOUF'S  HOUSE.  45 

discovered,  or  suspecting  a  plot  of  the  Mamelukes 
against  him,  invited  Ibrahim  Bey  and  the  chiefs 
of  the  Mamelukes,  four  hundred  and  fifty  in  num- 
ber, to  the  citadel  to  a  feast.  The  festivities  be- 
ing over,  they  mounted  their  horses  ;  but  on 
reaching  the  gate  to  depart,  they  found  it  closed. 
Immediately  a  thought  of  treachery  flashed  across 
their  minds,  which  was  confirmed  by  a  shower  of 
bullets  from  behind  the  ramparts.  All  perished, 
with  the  exception  of  Emir  Bey,  who  escaped  by 
leaping  his  horse  a  frightful  distance  from  the  top 
of  the  wall.  Xearly  all  the  Mamelukes  of  the 
city  were  slaughtered  on  that  fearful  day.} 

In  this  place  I  saw  Joussoufs  house,  as  it  is 
called.  Its  remains  consist  of  six  or  eight  majes- 
tic and  beautiful  porphyry  pillars,  some  standing:, 
some  broken.  The  Mussulmans  say  that  it  is  the 
site  of  the  house  of  the  Patriarch  Joseph.  It  is 
possible  that  that  Patriarch  lived  here  too,  because 
Potiphar,  Joseph's  father-in-law,  was  a  Priest 
of  On  (Heliopolis,  now  Mataricti),  only  a  short 
distance  from  here.  Yet  it  may  be  the  house  of 
Joussouf  Sola  d-deen  (Saladin),  who  built  a  forti- 
fied palace  on  this  spot,  in  the  twelfth  century, 
which  was  permitted  to  go  to  ruin  by  the  Turks  ; 
but  lately  it  has  been  repaired  by  the  Pacha.  I 
saw  the  Palace  of  Mehemet  Ali,  which  is  very 
fine,  but  nothing  extra,  except  the  upholstery, 
which  is  remarkable  for  barbaric  splendor .\ 

The  Pacha  does  not  now  reside  in  this  place  ; 
he  has  removed  to  a  still  more  magnificent  palace 
in  the  vicinity,  which  contains  a  pavilion  two 


46  GRAND   CAIRO. 

hundred  and  fifty  feet  by  two  hundred  feet,  each 
wall  of  which  is  adorned  with  colonnades  of 
white  marble.  The  gardens  are  grand.  The 
outer  court  is  splendid  and  is  surrounded  by 
open  cloisters,  the  whole  cased  with  Egyptian 
alabaster.  The  mosque  is  finished  and  is  truly 
magnificent.  To  enter  it  I  was  obliged  to  take 
off  my  shoes,  which  I  gave  in  charge  of  a  Mussul- 
man who  furnished  me  with  the  temporary  loan 
of  a  pair  of  slippers.  Of  course  fyacksheeshes 
procure  every  thing.  I  entered  the  mosque 
through  lofty  handsome  bronze  gates.  The 
interior  is  vast,  especially  in  height  ;  and  is  all 
decorated  with  white  marble,  alabaster  and 
colors.  We  walked  to  the  walls  of  the  citadel 
overlooking  the  city,  from  which  we  enjoyed  a 
most  beautiful  view.  The  magnificent  panorama 
extends  30  miles  along  the  Nile,  and  a  view 
embracing  the  ruins  of  old  Cairo,  the  suburbs  of 
Boulak  and  Dijah,  the  site  of  Memphis,  the  great 
pyramids,  obelisks,  and  Heliopolis,  the  ruins  of 
Mataresh,  the  pyramids  of  Sakara  and  the  eternal 
Nile,  is  obtained  from  this  place.  Beyond  the 
Nile  I  could  discover  the  soft  and  most  brilliant 
verdure  of  the  meadows,  and  rice  fields,  yearly 
inundated  by  the  river  ;  and  then  beyond  these, 
again,  the  undulating  sand-hills  of  the  Lybian 
Desert,  on  which  the  majestic  pyramids  rest.  I 
could  see  the  line  marked  by  the  fertilizing  inun- 
dation of  the  Nile  encroaching  into  the  barren 
sand  of  the  desert  ;  this  line  is  so  distinctly 
marked  that  I  have  walked  with  one  foot  on  the 


BEER   JUSEF.  47 

s 

barren  sand  of  the  desert  and  the  other  on  the 
soft  green  brilliant  meadow. \ 

I  turned  my  eyes  upon  the  city.  What  a 
majestic  and  imposing  sight !  Grand  Cairo 
stretched  out  for  two  or  three  miles  right  and 
left,  between  us  and  the  river.  Hundreds  of 
mosques  whose  shining  and  elegant  minarets 
glittered  in  the  brilliant  rays  of  the  sun — the 
Egyptian  sun  !  Picturesque  palm  groves,  throng- 
ed streets  ^nd  places  sending  up  the  hum  of 
hundreds  of  thousands,  produced  an  impres- 
sion which  can  never  be  effaced.  By  paying 
some  more  backsheesh  I  was  shown  Joseph's 
celebrated  well,  Beer  Jusef.  It  is  supposed  to 
have  been  hewn  in  the  rock  by  the  ancient 
Egyptians,  and  was  discovered  by  the  Sultan 
Saladin,  when  erecting  the  citadel.  It  is  fifteen 
feet  in  diameter,  and  270  feet  in  depth,  which 
brings  its  bottom  to  a  level  with  the  Nile.  A 
winding  staircase  leads  to  the  bottom,  where  are 
stationed  two  mules  turning  a  wheel  at  the  top  ; 
around  this  wheel  there  is  a  rope  continually  re- 
volving, to  which  are  attached  small  earthen 
jugs.  This  is  the  same  machinery  used  through- 
out Egypt  and  Southern  Italy  to  draw  water  from 
cisterns  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation.  This  machin- 
ery is  kept  continually  going  and  the  mules  are 
changed  every  four  hours.  At  the  base  of  the 
citadel  I  was  introduced  into  the  enclosure  where 
the  Sheik  on  horseback  rides  over  the  prostrate 
pilgrims  after  their  return  from  Mecca ;  the 
poor  wounded  creatures  believe  that  the  more 


48  GRAND    CAIRO. 

they  suffer  the  more  happy  they  will  be  in 
heaven.\ 

Every  true  believer  in  Mohammed  esteems  it  a 
duty  once  during  the  life-time,  to  make  a  pilgrim- 
age to  Mecca,  where  Mohammed  was  born,  and 
to  Medina,  where  he  died  and  is  buried.  Cairo 
furnishes  once  a  year  the  Kiaweh  or  the  lining 
for  the  Kaaba  of  Mecca.  Kaaba  was  originally 
a  temple  of  Mecca.  The  Arabs  before  embracing 
Mohammedanism  called  a  small  stone  building  in 
the  same  temple  Kaaba,  saying  that  it  was  built 
by  Abraham  and  Tshniael.  On  the  side,  set  in  the 
wall,  four  feet  from  the  ground,  is  a  black  stone 
covered  with  silver,  toward  which  the  Mohamme- 
dans turn  their  faces  in  their  prayers.  The 
pilgrims  touch  and  kiss  this  stone  seven  times, 
after  which  they  enter  the  Kaciba.  The  Kiaweh 
is  richly  embroidered  with  gold.  The  new 
Kiaweh.  going  to  Mecca  on  a  camel  magnificent- 
ly caparisoned,  and  the  old  one  coming  from 
Mecca,  are  the  leading  features  of  the  procession .\ 

In  the  afternoon,  riding  on  a  donkey  I  went  to 
see  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hassan,  which  is  the  best, 
in  Cairo,  the  architect  of  which  had  his  hand  cut 
off  by  order  of  the  King,  that  he  might  never  be 
able  to  construct  another  like  it.  I  made  arrange- 
ments with  my  dragoman  to  pay  all  the  backshee- 
shes  in  order  not  to  be  imposed  upon  or  annoj^ed. 
This  mosque  is  situated  in  the  aristocratic  quar- 
ter of  Cairo,  in  which  the  noble  and  rich  families 
live.  Their  houses,  although  great,  and  provided 
with  magnificent  gate-ways,  appear  sombre  on  ac- 


THE   MOSQUE   OF   SULTAN   HASSAN.  49 

count  of  the  windows,  which  usually  look  into  the 
court-yard  and  garden.  The  streets  were  clean 
and  crowded  with  natives  buying,  selling,  singing, 
talking,  and  riding.  We  dismounted  at  the  side 
of  the  mosque  among  a  multitude  of  horses,  cam- 
els, and  donkeys  ;  and  while  the  dragoman  went 
for  the  key  and  to  pay  the  usual  fee,  I  approach- 
ed the  door  by  a  lofty  flight  of  steps  from  the 
street.  The  huge  portal  has  a  broad  flat  archi- 
trave, presenting  the  appearance  of  a  trefoil  head- 
ed arch,  and  folding  doors  of  wood,  covered  with 
a  rich  bronze  work  so  well  executed  that  it 
might  put  to  the  blush  our  modern  workmen.  It 
is  remarkable  that  the  knocker  is  placed  so  high 
as  to  cause  Mohammed  to  say  that  people  in 
those  days  were  taller  than  at  present. \ 

The  entrance  porch  is  about  thirty  feet  square 
and  sixty  or  seventy  high,  surmounted  by  a  dome 
with  a  hole  in  the  middle.  After  a  passage  of 
several  turns  we  arrived  at  a  low  wooden  barrier 
where  sat  a  man  who  presented  us  some  large 
slippers  to  put  over  our  shoes.  Stepping  over 
this  barrier  we  entered  a  large  square  court  about 
two  hundred  feet  square,  with  a  central  dome 
open  in  the  centre  to  the  air.  Opposite  to  the 
entrance  is  the  recess  extending  three  times  as 
deep  as  the  side  ones  ;  then  there  is  the  platform 
or  desk  from  which  the  Koran  is  read  on  Fridays, 
and  in  front  of  which  private  prayers  are  said. 
The  architecture  of  the  mosque  indicates  the  style 
of  ancient  Oriental  Catholic  churches.  In  the 
eastern  wall,  where  the  altar  of  a  church  should 


50  GRAND    CAIRO. 

be,  is  a  semi-circular  niche  giving  the  precise  di- 
rection of  Mecca,  which  is  called  Meclierab,  and  the 
public  prayer  is  made  in  front  of  this  by  the 
MoollaJis  on  Fridays.  To  the  right  of  this,  also 
against  the  wall,  is  a  stone  pulpit  approached  by  a 
long  flight  of  steps.  Every  Friday,  after  the  read- 
ing of  the  Koran  from  the  desk,  an  exhortation  is 
given  from  the  pulpit  ;  then  singing  and  a  prayer 
from  a  set  form  before  the  Mecherab.  At  the 
right  of  the  Mecherab  there  is  a  door  leading  to 
a  more  richly  decorated  apartment,  where  the 
shrine  of  the  Santon  is  built.  The  body  is  in  a 
raised  tomb  covered  with  a  rich  carpet,  fenced 
round,  and  above  it  are  suspended  three  lamps. 
Over  the  head  is  placed  a  splendidly  illuminated 
Koran,  which  I,  because  Christian,  was  not  allow- 
ed to  touch,  but  a  Mohammedan  brought  it  to  the 
lattice  for  me  to  see.  Just  in  the  middle  of  the 
court  'is  a  marble  basin  covered  by  a  dome,  in 
which  the  Mussulmans  wash  head,  arms,  and  feet 
three  times  before  prayer.  I  saw  near  to  it  a  sec- 
ond basin  which  was  for  the  Hhaiwfees  who  use 
running  water  for  their  ablutions.  There  are 
four  sects  of  Mussulmans  ;  the  Hhanafees,  Shafaees, 
Malikees  and  Hhanbelees,  who  differ  only  on  some 
points  of  disciplines, 

I  had  notified  the  landlord  of  the  hotel  to  give 
my  name  to  join  any  party  that  intended  to  visit 
the  pyramids  ;  I  did  not  want  to  go  alone  into  the 
desert.  A  party  was  formed  of  Italians,  French, 
and  German  gentlemen  and  a  French  lady,  and  I 
joined  the  company.  A  German  living  in  Cairo 


CROSSING   THE   NILE.  51 

s 

who  spoke  Arabic  well,  and  who  had  visited  the 
pyramids  several  times  was  appointed  to  make 
contracts,  pay  guides'  fees,  backsheesh,  etc.,  ex- 
cept the  donkeys.  The  hotel-keeper  provided  me 
with  a  good  donkey,  and  an  Arab  to  wait  on  me 
and  to  carry  provisions  to  eat  at  the  pyramids. 
The  party  was  composed  of  eight  persons  besides 
the  Arabs.  We  all  started  from  the  hotel  at  day- 
light, and  after  passing  Old  Cairo,  the  atmosphere 
turned  so  foggy  that  it  reminded  me  of  the  dark- 
ness of  Egypt  in  the  time  of  Moses.  It  was  so 
dark  that  we  could  hardly  see  each  other,  hence 
we  kept  close  together.  Arrived  at  the  shore 
where  we  were  to  cross  the  Nile  we  could  not  see 
the  river  on  account  of  the  fog.  Here  commenc- 
ed the  fun  with  the  Arabs.  The  regular  price  to 
cross  the  river  and  land  to  Gizeh,  including  Arabs 
and  donkeys,  and  re-cross  it,  is  one  franc  for  each 
traveler.  The  Arabs  asked  a  napoleon  for  each 
of  us,  and  they  would  not  come  down  lower  than 
half  a  napoleon.  The  rascals  in  nearly  all  the 
boats  had  plotted  together  on  the  shore.\ 

The  German  did  us  great  service  :  he  knew  the 
Arabs,  and  he  knew  also  how  to  manage  them. 
He  reproached  them,  scolded  them,  called  them 
every  kind  of  name  and  he  even  threatened  them, 
but -all  to  no  purpose.  They  were  firm.  He  told 
us  to  show  no  anxiety,  but  with  our  donkeys  to 
retire  from  the  shore  and  they  would  come  to 
reasonable  terms.  He  went  again  to  the  shore 
and  protested  that  we  would  not  cross  the  river, 
but  would  go  back  to  Cairo  and  report  their  ras- 


52  GRAND    CAIRO. 

cality  to  the  Sheik.  They  asked  him  how  much 
he  would  be  willing*  to  give,  "  Holf  a  franc  each," 
he  replied  with  firmness.  u Half  a  franc?"  they 
said.  "No!  you  will  never  cross  the  river." 

At  this  time  some  more  ferry-boats  arrived, 
whose  Arabs  were  not  in  league  with  the  rest, 
and  this  German  gentleman  turned  himself  to- 
wards them ;  but  he  was  called  back  by  the 
former  Arabs  who  were  anxious  to  re-cross  the 
river,  and  had  no  passengers, -so  the  bargain  was 
concluded  for  eight  or  nine  francs  for  the  whole 
party,  including  Arabs  and  donkeys.  For  a 
while  we  were  enveloped  in  this  fog,  but  soon 
it  dissipated,  as  if  by  enchantment  a  curtain  had 
been  folded  up,  displaying  before  our  eyes  the 
majestic  Nile  and  its  beautiful  shores.  We  saw 
the  Isle  of  Rhoda,  where  is  the  Nilometer,  and 
which  is  believed  to  be  the  place  where  Moses 
was  saved  from  a  watery  grave  in  a  basket  found 
by  the  daughter  of  Pharaoh,  when  she  went  down 
to  bathe  in  the  river.  We  landed  at  Gizeh,  and 
mounting  our  donkeys,  passed  through  the  village 
amongst  a  crowd  of  grunting  camels,  donkeys, 
Arabs  and  boys.  We  crossed  some  fine  pine 
groves,  and  rich  meadows  which  characterize  the 
open  country  of  Egypt.  After  three  or  four  miles 
we  passed  another  village,  where  a  large  number 
of  women  were  washing  at  a  fountain,  and  a 
crowd  of  children  ran  after  us  crying  "  back- 
sheesh,  backsheesh !"  Beyond  this  village  the 
road  lies  through  a  wide  and  uninterrupted  field 
of  the  richest  and  most  tender  verdure  ;  and  the 


CROSSING   THE   NILE.  53 

s 

pyramids,  although  about  six  miles  distant,  ap- 
peared as  near  as  if  they  were  only  one  mile, 
owing  to  the  clearness  of  the  atmosphere.  I  did 
well  to  secure  a  white  straw  hat  and  duster,  as 
the  sun  was  very  hot,  notwithstanding  that  it  was 
winter.  Occasionally  there  were  pools  of  water 
left  by  the  retreating  river.  We  reached  a 
very  large  pool  which  was  to  be  crossed  on 
the  shoulders  of  Arabs,  not  on  account  of  the 
depth  of  the  water,  but  for  the  sliminess  of  the 
soil,  which  rendered  the  passage  unsafe  for  horses 
and  donkeys,  especially  when  they  were  shod 
with  flat  plates  of  iron  covering  the  whole  hoof.  \ 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE   PYRAMIDS — OLD    CAIRO. 

APPROACH  TO  THE  PYRAMID — CHEOPS*  PYRAMID ASCENSION  OF  THE  GREAT 

PYRAMID — INTERIOR  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS THE  SPHINX ATTEMPT  TO  ENTER  A 

MOSQUE — OLD  CAIRO— A  SCHISMATIC  GREEK  CHURCH THE  GREEK  SCHISM A 

JACOBITE  CHURCH HOUSE  OK  THE  HOLY  FAMILY MASS  IN  THE  HOUSE  OF  THE 

HOLY  FAMILY.  \ 

\  I  HAD  imagined  that  our  troubles  with  the 
Arabs  were  over,  but  I  found  out  that  I  was  mis- 
taken. We  could  not  go  across  this  large  pool 
without  their  assistance,  hence  we  had  another 
long  and  spirited  discussion  with  these  children 
of  the  desert.  They  wanted  an  enormous  price 
to  carry  us  across  on  their  shoulders.  We 
threatened  to  wade  the  pool  riding  on  our  don- 
keys as  some  visitors  did  afterwards  ;  but  the 
Sheik  saw  us  from  a  neighboring  village,  and, 
guessing  the  trouble,  came  to  our  rescue.  ^He 
made  us  pay  the  usual  price,  which  is  about  one 
franc,  both  ways,  for  each  traveler,  the  guides 
free  ;  and  the  money  was  to  be  paid  on  our 
return.  We  left  the  donkeys  near  this  place 
with  some  Arabs,  to  whom  we  furnished  money 
enough  to  procure  their  dinner  and  feed  for  the 
donkeys,  and  we  walked  the  rest  of  the  way, 
having  continually  before  our  eyes  the  Pyramids, 

(54) 


APPROACH  TO  THE  PYRAMIDS.        55 

whose  immense  size  we  did  not  realize  till  we 
were  at  their  foot ;  because  they  stand  alone,  on 
an  elevated,  mountainous  range  on  the  edge  of 
the  desert,  without  any  other  object  with  which 
to  compare  them.  We  at  once  stepped  from  a 
fertile  alluvial  soil  into  the  arid  burning  sand  of 
the  Lybian  desert,  in  which  I  found  several  shells 
and  other  deposits  of  the  sea,  which  shows  that 
this  desert  was  once  covered  by  the  sea.  In  half 
an  hour  we  ascended  the  low  mounds  on  which 
stand  the  pyramids  of  Grizeh  ;  soon  we  were 
under  that  of  Cheops,  the  largest  pyramid,  and 
the  most  mysterious  structure  in  the  world.  I 
looked  aghast  at  the  gigantic  dimensions  of  this 
enormous  edifice,  and,  gazing  upon  those  sloping 
sides  to  the  lofty  summit,  it  appeared  a  mountain. 

Herodotus  says  that  this  pyramid  is  eight  hun- 
dred feet  in  height,  and  that  this  is  likewise  the 
length  of  its  base  on  each  side.\ 

Strabo,  Diodorus,  and  more  modern  measure- 
ments give  less.  I  think  they  are  all  correct. 
The  sand  of  the  desert  has  raised  the  ground  and 
buried  a  part  of  the  pyramids,  as  the  Sphynx  and 
other  monuments  prove.  Strabo  says  that  the 
stone  which  closes  the  entrance  to  the  pyramid  is 
to  be  found  nearly  in  the  centre  of  one  of  the 
sides.  If  this  was  true  in  his  time  the  soil  must 
have  been  raised  considerably  since-,  the  entrance 
at  present  being  only  one  hundred  feet  from  the 
ground.  The  base  covers  about  eleven  acres. 
Herodotus  says  that  one  hundred  thousand  men 
worked  without  interruption  for  twenty  years  in 


56  THE   PYRAMIDS OLD    CAIRO. 

building  this  pyramid,  and  that  the  broad  raised 
causeway  of  large  stones  twenty  cubits  wide  and 
eight  high  was  almost  as  great  a  work  as  the 
pyramids  themselves,  and  traces  of  it  are  visible 
opposite  the  third  p3rramid.  By  this  causeway 
the  huge  stones  from  the  quarries  near  Memphis 
and  in  Upper  Egypt  were  brought  to  the  spot 
after  being  floated  down  the  Nile.  The  same 
historian  says  that  the  whole  work  was  finished 
from  above  downwards  ;  first  the  top,  then  the 
sides,  then  the  bases,  which  appear  to  rest  on 
sandy  platforms,  and  last,  those  beneath  the  sur- 
face, exca Abated  in  some  parts,  and  built  in  others, 
which  he  calls  subterranean  chambers,  and  which 
rest  on  the  rocky  level  of  the  plain.  The  four 
sides  stand  exactly  to  the  four  cardinal  points  of 
the  compass.  There  are  over  two  hundred  layers 
of  stone,  but  several  of  them  are  now  buried  under 
the  sand.  These  layers  of  stone  which  now  form 
the  steps  for  ascending  the  pyramids,  vary  in 
height  considerably,  from  one  foot  to  over  four 
feet,  and  they  are  only  a  substructure  of  a  smooth 
white  marble  casing,  according  to  Herodotus, 
Diodorus  and  Pliny,  although  modern  authors 
say  that  it  was  granite.  That  part  of  the  smooth 
marble  casing  remaining  yet  uudemolished  on 
the  top  of  the  second  pyramid,  and  the  magnifi- 
cent granite  blocks  which  form  the  lower  stages 
of  the  third  one,  are  indications  that  Cheop's 
pyramid  was  cased  with  smooth  white  marble, 
with  the  lower  stages  of  granite.  The  marbles 
and  granite  have  been  removed  by  the  Pachas 


ASCENSION   OF   THE   GREAT   PYRAMID.  57 

to  build  their  palaces  and  mosques  in  Cairo. 
The  great  pyramid  was  erected  by  Saophis  or 
Cheops,  about  2120  years  B.  c.,  and  forty  years 
afterwards  his  son,  Sen-Saophis  built  the  second. 
Herodotus  says  that  Cheops  became  an  object  of 
hatred  to  his  people  on  account  of  having  spent  so 
much  time  and  money  in  building  this  pyramid. 
Yet,  this  notwithstanding,  his  son  Sen-Saophis 
erected  a  second  one.\ 

About  half  of  our  party  determined  to  ascend 
the  pyramid  ;  the  others,  including  the  lady,  re- 
fused. I  was  undecided.  I  was  anxious  to 
ascend  it  but  I  was  afraid  of  having  some  vertigo 
of  my  head,  and  then  what  would  become  of  my 
bones  !  The  Sheik  of  the  pyramids  had  come  in 
person  to  give  us  his  assistance ;  he  furnished 
two  Arabs  as  guides  for  each  visitor  who  wished 
to  ascend  the  pyramids,  and  to  whom  they  were 
to  render  every  personal  help.  Every  one  who 
ascended  the  pyramids  was  to  pay  one  dollar  to 
the  Sheik  and  that  included  the  payment  of  the 
guides.  Finally  I  agreed  to  ascend  the  pyramid 
with  three  guides  which  were  furnished  me,  two 
to  hold  me  by  the  hands  and  the  third  to  lift  me 
up  when  I  needed  it.  I  found  it  difficult  for  me 
to  ascend,  because  the  stones  forming  the  steps 
were  of  different  size,  and  some  so  high  that  I 
could  not  reach  them  with  my  feet  but  was 
obliged  to  climb  with  my  knees,  the  Arabs  pull- 
ing and  lifting  me,  often  forming  a  kind  of  step 
with  their  knees  to  give  me  assistance.  The 
Arabs  are  responsible  for  the  safety  of  visitors  ; 
n.- 


58  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

even  a  scratch  endured  by  a  visitor  would  be 
severely  punished.  Having  climbed  some  dis- 
tance up  I  stopped  to  breathe  :  I  looked  down  and 
then  up,  and  gazing  at  those  who  had  nearly 
reached  the  top  I  perceived  that  their  size  had 
dwindled  to  that  of  insects  creeping  on  the 
side  of  the  pyramid.  It  was  then  that  I  realized,  in 
all  its  force,  the  huge  dimensions  of  this  gigantic 
work.  Up  again,  and  making  a  kind  of  zigzag  from 
one  side  to  the  north-east  angle  in  order  to  select 
the  best  steps,  we  reached  half  way  up  where  there 
is  a  large  resting-place  sixteen  feet  square,  which 
from  below,  looks  merely  like  a  chip  taken  out  of 
the  corner  of  the  pyramid.v 

I  stopped  a  little  while  to  rest  and  felt  nervous. 
The  Arabs  asked  for  backsheesh.  I  gave  it  to 
them  ;  knowing  that  my  life  was  in  their  hands. 
I  continued  to  ascend,  but  I  felt  more  nervous, 
and  commenced  to  reflect  on  the  difficulty  of 
descending.  When  I  was  up  over  three  quarters 
of  the  distance  from  the  base  I  looked  at  the 
frightful  abyss  below,  under  my  feet,  and  I  re- 
solved to  go  no  further.  I  was  not  afraid  on 
account  of  the  difficulty  of  ascending.  I  could 
have  reached  the  top,  but  I  apprehended  danger 
in  descending  ;  I  feared  that  in  looking  down 
below,  my  head  might  become  giddy  and  I  felt 
so  already  in  some  degree.  The  Arabs  urged 
and  encouraged  me  to  continue  to  ascend  ;  they 
wanted  to  hold  me  up  in  their  hands  but  I  had 
resolved  to  go  no  farther.  They  perceived  that 
I  was  nervous,  and  thinking  that  I  was  frighten- 


ASCENSION    OF   THE    GREAT   PYRAMID.  59 

ed,  they  told  me  "If  you  do  not  want  to  go,  we 
will  not  go,  we  will  do  what  you  will  tell  us  ;  no 
danger,  no  fear,  we  will  take  care  of  you,  we 
will  hold  you ;  give  us  backsheesh."  I  told 
them  that  I  would  give  it  to  them  when  we  got 
down  ;  but  they  replied,  "  No,  give  us  backsheesh 
now,'7  Of  course  I  gave  the  backsheesh.  "  Good 
man,  good  master !  "  they  exclaimed.\ 

Here  I  remained  for  some  time,  and  contem- 
plated the  magnificent  panorama  which  was  dis- 
played under  my  eyes.  I  was  considering  the 
dark  mountains  of  Mokattem  bordering  the  Ara- 
bian desert ;  the  ancient  city  of  the  Pharaohs,  its 
domes,  mosques,  and  minarets  glittering  in  the 
light  of  an  African  vertical  sun  ;  the  rich  valley 
of  the  Nile,  whose  waters  were  rolling  silently  to 
the  sea  ;  the  long  range  of  pyramids  and  tombs 
extending  along  the  edge  of  the  desert  to  the 
ruined  city  of  Memphis  ;  and  the  boundless  and 
everlasting  sands  of  the  African  desert.  At  a 
great  distance  in  the  far  East,  I  could  perceive 
the  hot  air,  as  if  it  were  boiling  on  the  burning 
sand  of  the  great  desert  of  Sahara,  the  largest 
desert  of  the  globe  ;  the  greatest  part  of  it  is 
nothing  else  but  a  dead  level.  No  voice  or 
sound  disturbed  the  silence  of  these  lonely 
abodes  of  the  dead  ;  no  birds  with  their  warb- 
ling notes  cheered  the  oppressed  heart  of  the 
visitant,  saddened  by  these  mysterious  gigantic 
relics  of  far  -  gone  mighty  generations.  The 
melancholy  stillness  of  this  vast  solitude  trans- 
ported my  spirit  to  consider  the  ancient  dynasties 
of  Ethiopia  and  of  the  Egyptian  Kings  ;  to  reflect 


60  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

upon  a  long  past  cyclopic  age,  which  erected  these 
wonderful  monuments,  which  attract  the  admira- 
tion of  present  generations  ;  an  extinct  race,  whose 
civilization  preceded  the  Greeks  and  Eomans,  and 
whose  colossal  temples,  tombs  and  cities  astound 
the  wise  and  learned  men  of  this  decaying  period, 
and  compels  the  present  age  to  blush  and 
acknowledge  with  reluctance  their  great  inferi- 
ority.x 

I  got  up  and  commenced  the  descent,  assisted 
by  the  Arabs,  who  received  backsheesh  several 
times  before  we  reached  the  entrance  to  the 
pyramid.  Four  Arabs  accompanied  me  into  the 
interior  of  it ;  two  would  have  been  enough  but  I 
could  not  succeed  in  keeping  two  of  them  out. 
Two  carried  candles,  the  others  were  giving  me 
assistance.  On  entering,  the  passage  is  low  and 
uncomfortable  ;  it  is  three  feet  and  a  half  square, 
lined  with  large  blocks  of  highly  polished  granite. 
It  then  descends  very  abruptly  for  fifty  or  sixty 
yards  in  the  interior  of  the  pyramid,  and  I  felt 
very  much  fatigued,  stumbling  along,  covered 
with  dust,  soot  and  smoke,  choked  with  foul  air 
and  smothered  by  an  oppressive  heat.  Two 
Arabs  taking  me  by  the  arms  pulled  me  along, 
keeping  time  to  a  national  air,  singing  an  Arab- 
Italian  song,  in  which  all  the  Arabs  joined  in  this 
rhyme,  "  Buon  padrone,  luon  Signbr,"  "JBuona 
moneta,  buon  backsheesh"  Then  dividing  into 
two  choruses,  one  sang  "Buon  padrone,"  the 
other  answering  "buon  lacksheesh"  or  " buona 
moneta"  according  to  the  rhyme,  and  so  on.  I 
was  surprised  to  hear  the  Arabs  sing  in  Italian. 


INTERIOR   OF   THE   PYRAMID.  61 

The  tune  was  beautiful,  and  the  song,  as  far  as  I 
could  understand  it,  contained  praises  of  the 
visitor  and  of  his  liberality  in  backsheesh.  I  do 
not  know  whether  they  sing  this  song  for  every 
visitor  ;  of  one  thing  I  am  certain,  they  got  plenty 
of  backsheesh  from  me.\ 

Here  the  passage  turns  to  the  right  and  winds 
upward  to  a  steep  ascent  of  eight  or  nine  feet 
and  then  falls  into  the  natural  passage,  which  is 
five  feet  high  and  one  hundred  feet  long,  forming 
the  ascent  to  a  sort  of  landing  place.  In  a  small 
recess  of  this  is  the  orifice  or  shaft  called  the  well. 
Proceeding  onward  through  a  long  passage  we 
entered  the  Queen's  Chamber,  which  is  seventeen 
feet  long,  fourteen  wide,  and  twelve  high  ;  this 
chamber  is  simple  and  without  ornament.  There 
was  no  sarcophagus  in  it.  Here  of  course  the 
Arabs  asked  and  got  backsheesh.  Returning 
from  this  chamber  we  mounted  a  narrow  ledge 
and  crept  as  far  again  into  the  King's  Chamber, 
or  tomb,  which  is  about  thirty  feet  by  fifteen,  and 
fifteen  feet  in  height.  The  walls  of  this  chamber 
are  of  red  granite,  highly  polished,  each  stone 
reaching  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling,  which  is 
formed  of  slabs  of  the  same  red  granite,  smooth 
and  shining  like  a  mirror,  and  extending  from 
side  to  side.  Over  this  there  is  a  second  cham- 
ber approached  by  steps  cut  in  the  angle  of  the 
chamber  which  is  to  be  climbed  up  like  a  chimney- 
sweep, and  afterwards  by  a  well-like  shaft.  This 
chamber  seems  to  have  been  made  to  keep  off  the 
extreme  pressure  from  above.  In  the  King's  Cham- 


62  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

ber  stands  a  sarcophagus,  also  of  red  granite,  seven 
feet  six  inches  long,  three  and  a  half  deep,  and  three 
feet  and  three  inches  wide.  Here  slept  one  of  the 
greatest  rulers  of  the  world,  the  proud  mortal  for 
whom  this  mighty  structure  was  raised.  Here 
one  can  realize  the  enormous  labors  of  the  buil- 
ders of  this  great  tomb.  The  tomb  still  exists 
but  where  is  he  ?  where  is  his  soul  ?  even  his 
dry  bones  are  gone,  torn  away  by  rude  hands. 
There  is  still  a  mystery  about  these  colossal 
monuments.  It  is  now  nearly  universally  ad- 
mitted that  sepulture  was  the  principal  object  o 
these  marvellous  structures  ;  but  a  critical  scrutiny 
of  their  interior  construction  points  to  some  other 
object  besides.  Smooth  and  polished,  immense 
blocks  of  fine  marble  and  granite,  round  and 
above  you,  in  places  where  they  were  intended 
for  few  mortal  eyes  •  a  sarcophagus,  whose  size  is 
nearly  that  of  the  orifice,  could  not  have  been 
conveyed  to  its  place  by  any  of  the  now  known 
passages,  consequently  they  must  have  been  de- 
posited during  the  building  or  before  the  passage 
was  finished  in  its  present  state.  It  is  generally 
admitted  that  the  main  purpose  of  this  mysterious 
edifice  was  to  be  a  tomb  ;  but  whether  the  polished 
surfaces  of  the  inclined  shafts  through  which  we 
now  enter  ;  their  great  inclinations  which  render 
it  impossible  to  pass  without  steps  now  cut  here 
arid  there  in  the  floors,  and  the  appearance  of 
accurate  contrivance  which  these  passages  possess, 
suggesting  the  idea  that  access  was  practiced  by 
means  of  machinery,  point  to  the  concealment  of 


INTERIOR   OF   THE   PYRAMID.  63 

treasure,  the  celebration  of  secret  rites,  and  other 
uses  besides,  I  suppose  we  shall  never  know.  We 
must  also  consider  that  the  chamber  is  not  in  the 
centre,  but  in  an  irregular  and  out-of-the-way 
position  in  this  vast  pile.  Who  can  say  that  they 
are  entirely  explored,  and  that  their  uses  are 
perfectly  known,  when  we  reflect  and  calculate 
that  allowing  an  equal  solid  bulk  of  partition  wall 
in  the  great  pyramid  there  is  sufficient  space  for 
3.700  chambers  as  large  as  that  containing  the 
sarcophagus.  Herodotus  says,  that  the  platform 
on  which  the  pyramids  stand  was  excavated  into 
subterranean  chambers,  which  Rhampsinitus  made 
for  treasure  houses,  bringing  in  the  Nile  by  a 
canal  so  as  to  isolate  them.  | 

In  the  .King's  chamber  I  felt  exhausted  with 
fatigue  arid  heat.  All  those  who  have  visited  the 
pyramids  agree  that  it  is  far  more  laborious  to  go 
inside  ~of  them  than  to  ascend  them,  except  the 
giddiness  of  the  head  ;  and  some  of  the  party  who 
ascended  to  the  top  of  the  pyramid  refused  to 
enter  it.  I  was  in  a  profuse  state  of  perspiration. 
I  saw  that  the  Arabs  were  alarmed  about  me  ; 
one  of  them  took  my  straw  hat  and  with  it  he 
commenced  to  fan  me  while  others  got  oat  of  the 
way  that  they  might  not  prevent  the  air  from 
reaching  me  ;  and  they  showed  me  a  hole  in  the 
wall  through  which  some  fresh  air  might  enter, 
but  I  did  not  feel  any.  I  leaned  on  the  sarco- 
phagus to  rest  and  breathe.  Afterwards  the  Arabs 
came  around  me  and  asked  for  backsheesh.  I 
told  them  that  I  would  give  it  to  them  when  we 


64  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

got  out  of  the  pyramid.  "  No  !  no  !"  they  replied, 
"  the  Sheik  will  see  them  and  he  will  take  all." 
I  gave  them  what  they  wanted  and  told  them  to 
hurry  me  out  of  the  place  at  once.  They  took 
me  by  the  hands  and  to  the  tune  of  the  same  song 
they  pulled  me  down,  then  up  again ;  they  pushed 
me  along  to  a  resting-place,  then  "  backsheesh." 
They  requested  me  not  to  tell  the  Sheik  that  I 
had  given  them  any  " backsheesh."  Up  again, 
and  once  more  down,  singing  very  lively  "  Buon 
Padrone  .  .  .  buona  moneta  .  .  .  Gran  Signore 
.  .  .  Bella  giornata  .  .  .  buon  backsheesh" 
Half  exhausted,  smothered,  and  full  of  perspiration 
I  emerged  from  this  mysterious  recess,  and  was 
very  glad  to  again  enjoy  the  light  of  heaven,  and 
I  stopped  and  laid  down  on  the  ground  to  breathe 
and  recruit  ray  strength  in  order  to  be  able  to 
descend  the  rest  of  the  pyramid.  They  asked  me 
again  to  say  nothing  to  the  Sheik  about  the  back- 
sheesh, because  he  would  take  them  away  from 
them  for  himself.\ 

We  took  our  dinner  under  the  shadow  of  this 
great  pyramid  and  afterwards  went  to  see  the 
other  two,  the  tombs,  a  temple,  and  the  sphinx. 
The  second  pyramid  was  opened  by  the  indefatig- 
able Belzoni  at  a  great  expense  and  labor.  In 
this  second  pyramid  there  is  only  one  chamber, 
and  it  is  not  in  the  centre  ;  there  is  a  sarcophagus 
sunk  in  the  floor.  There  are  two  passages  lead- 
ing to  the  same  chamber.  This  pyramid  was 
built  by  Sen-Sarophis,  son  of  Cheops  or  Saophis, 
2,083  years  B.  C.  The  base  is  at  present  690 


THE   SPHINX.  65 

s 

feet  square  and  447  high.  The  ascent  of  this 
pyramid  is  accompanied  with  great  difficulty, 
danger  and  loss  of  life.  The  third  pyramid  is  at 
present  333  feet  square  at  the  base  and  203  high. 
It  was  built  by  Mencheres.  There  is  one  chamber 
in  which  was  found  a  stone  sarcophagus,  which  was 
lost  in  a  vessel  on  the  way  to  England.  In  the 
passage  leading  to  the  chamber  were  found  a 
wooden  coffin  and  a  mummy  which  are  preserved 
in  the  British  Museum.  The  first  pyramid  is  en- 
closed on  three  sides  by  long  rows  of  massive  and 
deep  tombs,  on  some  of  which  I  could  see  mum- 
mies half  buried  in  sand.  The  second  and  third 
are  surrounded  by  traces  of  a  square  inclosure, 
and  approached  through  enormous  masses  of  ruins 
which  may  be  the  rubbish  of  some  great  temple. 
Towards  the  south-east  we  visited  a  temple  built 
of  large  blocks  of  highly  polished  red  granite  and 
marble  ;  it  had  several  chambers.  It  is  nearly 
buried  under  the  sand,  but  formerly  it  must  have 
been  above  the  level  of  the  ground.v 

Returning  from  the  temple  we  visited  the  cele- 
brated Sphinx.  It  is  150  feet  long  and  63  feet 
high,  and  its  circumference  round  the  forehead  is 
102  feet.  The  paws  of  the  leonine  part  are 
thrown  out  50  feet  in  front.  This  colossal 
statue  was  entirely  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  that 
stood  in  the  desert  with  the  exception  of  the  four 
paws,  and  it  is  worked  smooth.  She  wore  on  the 
head  the  royal  helmet  of  Egypt  but  it  has  been 
moved.  The  Sphinx  was  one  of  the  Deities  of 
the  Egyptians,  and  in  former  times  there  was  an 


66  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

altar  standing  under  the  breasts  of  the  statue, 
and  the  smoke  of  the  sacrifices  went  up  into  the 
huge  nostrils  which  now  have  disappeared  from 
her  face.  This  fabulous  monster  probably  of 
Egyptian  origin,  amongst  the  Egyptians,  was  dif- 
ferent from  that  of  the  Grecians.  The  Sphinx 
of  the  Grecians  was  the  daughter  of  Typhon  and 
Echidna,  sent  by  Juno  to  punish  the  The  bans, 
and  it  was  cruel  and  crafty.  But  the  Egyptian 
Sphinxes  were  the  symbols  and  guards  of  royalty 
and  were  represented  with  a  human  head  on  the 
body  of  a  lion.\ 

This  gigantic  Sphinx  has  for  thousands  and 
thousands  of  years  faithfully  watched  over  the 
huge  tombs  of  her  master.  Eaces  of  men  have 
succeeded  each  other  ;  hoary  and  mutilated,  silent 
and  lonely,  sad  and  sleepless,  this  Sphinx  still 
watches  at  the  tombs  of  its  masters  in  the  vast 
desert  of  Lybia.  These  poor  pagans  who  had 
built  such  colossal  monuments  to  cover  their 
bones,  and  placed  a  gigantic  guard  to  watch  their 
remains,  certainly  looked  for  another  life  than  this 
beyond  the  grave.  Who  dares  to  insult  those 
poor  pagans,  tombs,  temples  and  sphinxes  ?  .  .  . 
We  returned  to  Cairo  late  in  the  evening.\ 

Next  day  while  walking  through  Cairo  I  passed 
a  Santon's  tomb,  laid  in  a  covered  yard  which 
was  enclosed  by  an  iron  fence.  Over  this  tomb 
there  was  spread  a  rich  carpet,  and  several  lamps 
were  burning  before  it.  I  was  not  allowed  to 
enter  because  I  was  a  Christian,  but  I  saw  it  from 
the  outside  of  the  railing.  In  the  afternoon  I 


MOSQUE   OF   OMAR.  67 

.V 

passed  by  a  large  old  and  sombre  mosque ;  I  stopped 
to  gaze  at  it  and  I  heard  singing.  I  entered  the  gate, 
mounted  a  flight  of  steps  at  the  top  of  which  I 
found  a  barrier,  which  I  crossed,  and  immediately 
a  great  number  of  boys  came  out  from  what  I 
supposed  to  be  a  school  attached  to  the  mosque. 
They  gave  the  alarm,  some  laughing  and  some 
astonished  at  the  great  trespass  I  had  committed, 
and  some  looking  to  see  what  I  was  doing.  I 
stopped,  and  a  man  who  must  have  been  the 
teacher  made  me  understand  by  signs  to  go  back, 
and  I  stepped  out  of  the  barrier,  but  I  expressed  in 
the  same  manner  my  desire  to  see  the  place.  We 
could  not  understand  each  other's  language.  He 
pointed  to  my  feet ;  1  thought  that  he  meant  for 
me  to  remove  my  shoes,  which  I  did,  arid  I  at- 
tempted to  step  over  the  barrier  again,  but  they 
all  commenced  to  cry  as  if  I  was  attempting  to 
commit  a  great  crime.  Being  alone  and  without 
a  dragoman  I  thought  it  prudent  to  retreat,  and  I 
went  a  way  A 

On  another  afternoon  I  rode  on  a  donkey  to 
Old  Cairo,  a  city  of  great  interest  in  ancient 
history  and  founded  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  638, 
by  Amer-ebu-el-As,  who  built  also  a  mosque  which 
still  bears  his  name,  but  it  is  in  a  dilapidated  con- 
dition. Near  the  door  of  the  very  large  mosque 
of  Omar  there  are  two  pillars  about  ten  inches 
apart.  Formerly  any  person  not  able  to  pass 
through  these  pillars  was  looked  upon  as  an  infidel ; 
if  he  could  pass  he  was  considered  to  be  a  true 
believer  in  the  Prophet.  Among  the  monuments 


68  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

visited  with  great  interest  in  this  place  are  the 
Granaries  of  Joseph,  built  by  that  Patriarch  in 
this  locality.  My  boy  spoke  only  Arabic,  but  my 
hotel-keeper  had  explained  to  him  to  carry  me  to 
the  Coptic  or  Jacobite  Church  in  Old  Cairo  ;  but 
when  we  arrived  at  this  city  I  found  out  that 
he  knew  very  little,  and,  wandering  to  ani  fro  and 
inquiring,  he  took  me  to  a  large  old  building.  I 
mounted  a  long  flight  of  covered  steps  and  entered 
a  large  hall.  I  was  told  that  it  was  a  Greek 
Church,  and  I  sent  to  the  priest  who  had  charge 
of  it  for  permission  to  see  it.  From  this  hall 
through  a  kind  of  corridor  I  was  led  to  the  door 
of  the  church.  At  the  right  of  this  door,  but  at 
some  distance,  there  was  a  man  chained  to  the 
wall  by  one  foot.  He  appeared  to  me  like  one 
having  delirium  tremens,  but  through  delicacy  I 
abstained  from  inquiring  about  him  from  the 
priest  who  arrived  just  at  this  moment.  He 
opened  the  curtain  of  the  sanctuary,  and  on  the 
altar  there  was  the  Blessed  Sacrament,  which  was 
kept  uncovered,  and  not  in  the  tabernacle,  and  with- 
out any  visible  mark  of  its  presence — for  instance 
without  light.  The  Greek  Church  is  in  the  Coptic 
quarter  and  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Roman 
fort.  It  presents  the  usual  features,  and  within 
the  iconostasis  it  contains  three  small  paintings  of 
St.  Simon  Stylites  casting  out  devils.  The  devils 
are  represented  leaping  from  the  mouths  of  those 
possessed,  who  stand  at  the  foot  of  the  pillar. \ 

This  is  the  site  of  the  Egyptian  Babylon.     I 
had  told  the  priest  that  I  was  a  Latin  priest ;  he 


GREEK    SCHISMATICS.  69 

V 

called  me  his  brother,  carried  me  up-stairs  into 
his  apartment,  and  sitting  on  a  divan  we  drank 
coffee.  Here  I  commenced  to  doubt  whether  I 
was  amongst  Catholics  or  Schismatics.  I  did  not 
want  to  ask  him  directly  about  my  doubts,  but  I 
so  directed  the  conversation  that  I  discovered 
that  this  was  a  Greek  Schismatic  Church,  and 
that  I  was  conversing  with  a  Schismatic  Priest. 
I  found  him  a  gentleman,  pious,  of  good  faith, 
and  learned,  contrary  to  what  is  generally  insinu- 
ated against  the  Greek  Priests.  We  had  a  long 
discussion  on  the  subject  of  the  Greek  Schismatic 
Church,  and  I  was  pleased  to  see  that  they  hold 
no  error  in  doctrine.  The  difference  is  entirely 
in  discipline,  and  this  difference  was  always  with 
them,  and  was  confirmed  by  Eugene  1Y.  in  the 
Council  of  Ferrara.  This  priest  was  not  married, 
and  neither  of  the  two  other  priests  who  live  with 
him  were  married,  but  they  could  be  if  they 
wished.  He  always  called  me  by  the  name  of 
brother,  and  remarked  that  the  difference  between 
the  Latin  and  Greek  rites  should  not  dissever  the 
bonds  of  charity  and  character  amongst  the  minis- 
ters of  God,  who  work  for  the  sole  motive  of  accom- 
plishing what  remains  yet  to  be  done  for  the  sal- 
vation of  souls  ;  a  duty  which  Christ  Our  Lord 
has  imposed  upon  us  to  do.  I  said  I  was  glad 
of  these  motives,  and  I  assured  him  as  well  that 
the  Latin  clergymen  were  actuated  by  the  same 
motives,  and  that  we  constantly  pray  for  the 
union  of  all  our  separated  brethren.\ 

He  asked  me  if  we  looked  on  them  as  separated 


70  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

from  the  Church?  "  You  considered  yourselves 
as  such,77  I  replied,  u  by  your  not  acknowledging 
the  supremacy  of  the  Pope,  and  rejecting  his 
communion.  You  consider  yourselves  indepen- 
dent of  him,  and  have  no  unity  with  him  who  is  the 
rock  upon  which  the  Church  is  built,  and  to  whom 
alone  was  given  the  charge  to  feed  the  sheep  and 
the  lambs,  and  who  alone  is  the  Vicar  of  our  Sav- 
iour and  successor  of  St.  Peter.  You  cannot  con- 
sider yourselves  nor  can  you  be  considered  in 
union  with  the  Church.7'  "We  do,77  he  replied  ; 
"we  do  acknowledge  the  Pope  to  be  the  successor 
of  St.  Peter  and  the  Head  of  the  Church,  and  we 
look  on  ourselves  as  attached  to  it.  For  this 
reason  we  never  had  any  ^Ecumenical  Council 
since  our  Patriarchs  and  Bishops  began  to  quarrel 
amongst  themselves.  It  is  for  them  to  settle  their 
disputes.  If  it  is  a  fault  it  is  not  ours,  but  is  the 
fault  of  our  Bishops  and  Patriarchs.  We  receive 
our  instruction  from  them  and  we  are  to  abide  by 
them.  If  our  bishops  will  settle  these  disputes 
with  the  Pope  we  most  willingly  will  go  with 
them.'7  It  is  a  fact  that  the  Greek  congregations 
with  their  clergy  are  in  good  faith,  and  they  find 
themselves  separated  from  the  Church  for  the  fault 
of  their  bishops.  Pride,  self-interest,  love  of  inde- 
pendence, of  money,  and  of  the  favors  of  princes, 
passions,  stubbornness,  want  of  piety,  and  deficiency 
in  the  fear  of  God  actuated  those  wicked  prelates 
to  refuse  submission  to  Eome.  Like  Lucifer  they 
carried  with  them  priests  and  congregations  who 
believed  it  to  be  right  to  follow  their  bishops  no 


THE   JACOBITE    CHURCH.  71 

matter  where  ;  they  without  knowing  it  found 
themselves  on  a  precipice.  He  continued  that  in 
Egypt,  Palestine,  and  generally  speaking  every- 
where, it  was  easy  for  us  in  the  abstract  to  say, 
You  should  sever  yourselves  from  your  Bishops  and 
submit  to  the  Pope.  "  How  can  it  become  practi- 
cable ?  It  has  been  done  and  it  is  yet  done  by  the 
Greeks,  Copts,  Armenians  and  others  but  only  in 
small  bodies,  and  it  is  followed  by  difficulties  far 
greater  than  what  you  think.  But  when  the  bis- 
hops submit,  they  are  followed  by  dioceses  and 
entire  provinces.7'  I  perceived  that  they  were  in 
earnest  and  in  good  faith,  and  I  firmly  hope  that 
the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  our  separated 
brethren  will  be  again  united  under  the  successor 
of  St.  Peter.\ 

This  Greek  priest  gave  us  directions  where  to 
find  the  Jacobite  or  Coptic  church,  under  which 
was  the  house  where  the  Holy  Family  had  lived 
during  their  residence  in  Egypt.  He  remarked 
that  they  had  the  well  from  which  the  Blessed 
Virgin  usually  took  water  for  domestic  use  ;  but 
as  I  had  seen  it  and  received  the  Indulgence 
attached  to  it,  I  went  to  the  Jacobite  church.  The 
Coptic  priest  was  not  there,  but  some  backsheesh 
soon  procured  the  key.  The  church  is  a  fine  build- 
ing,  in  the  Oriental  style,  and  ornamented  accord- 
ingly. It  is  believed  that  the  church  was  built 
by  St.  Helen,  mother  of  Constantine  ;  but  at  pres- 
ent it  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Schismatic  Copts, 
The  priest  came,  and  he  was  a  venerable-looking 
old  man,  wearing  a  blue  gown,  like  that  usually 


72  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

worn  by  the  Latin  bishops,  and  a  kind  of  turban. 
He  showed  me  everything,  and  explained  them. 
The  Blessed  Sacrament  was  not  there.  The  church 
has  some  excellent  carvings  in  wood,  but  it  is  going 
to  destruction.  He  showed  me  a  very  old  Coptic 
Missal,  which  I  wanted  to  buy,  but  he  refused  to 
sell  it.  Through  a  narrow,  uncomfortable  trap- 
door, we  descended  to  the  subterranean  chapel, 
which  was  the  house  occupied  by  the  Holy  Fam- 
ily during  their  residence  in  Egypt.  It  is  now 
turned  into  a  church  fifteen  feet  square  and  high 
in  proportion.  It  is  divided  into  three  naves, 
having  three  round  arches,  each  supported  by 
pilasters.  It  has  three  Coptic  altars,  in  the  form 
of  a  shrine,  the  largest,  at  the  end  of  the  middle 
aisle,  where  our  Saviour  slept  while  a  child.  The 
other  two  are  in  the  middle  on  the  side  aisles, 
facing  each  other.  At  the  end  of  the  left  aisle, 
in  the  same  line  of  the  great  altar,  there  is  the 
baptistery.  Having  given  some  backsheesh  to 
the  priest  and  to  some  others  who  claimed  it,  I 
returned  to  CairoA 

I  desired  to  celebrate  Mass  in  the  subterranean 
chapel,  the  house  of  the  Holy  Family.  But  could 
I  do  it  in  a  schismatic  and  heretical  church  ? 
Would  not  that  be  communicating  in  Divinis? 
And  it  would  have  been  against  the  instructions 
which  I  had  received  in  Rome.  One  day  I  met 
the  Greek  bishop  and  the  Coptic  patriarch,  but  as 
they  could  not  speak  any  other  language  except 
their  own,  I  could  do  nothing  on  this  point,  as  we 
were  not  able  to  converse  together.  I  could  not 


A    COPTIC    CHURCH.  73 

s 

even  as  much  as  find  out  whether  the  bishop  and 
patriarch  were  Catholics  or  schismatics.  I  went 
to  the  Latin  Convent  of  the  Franciscans,  and 
there  I  had  a  conversation  with  several  of  the 
fathers,  who  directed  me  to  Padre  Pietro,  an  Ita- 
lian Franciscan  missionary  apostolic,  who  had 
resided  for  over  twenty  years  in  Old  Cairo, 
taking  charge  of  the  Catholics  of  that  city.  I 
went  to  him,  and  he  informed  me  that  there  was 
a  particular  privilege  from  Rome  to  say  Mass 
there  on  an  altcvre  portabile,  and  that  a  partial 
indulgence  was  attached  to  that  place.  He  added 
that  he  had  permission  from  the  Coptic  priest, 
by  paying  a  fee  to  him,  and  another  to  an  Egyp- 
tian woman,  who  had  charge  of  that  church,  to 
erect  an  altar  every  time  that  Mass  was  to  be 
said  by  a  Catholic  priest,  the  whole  amounting  to 
about  two  or  three  francs.  We  appointed  the 
next  day  to  say  Mass,  and  some  nuns  carried 
what  was  necessary  to  celebrate.  Padre  Pietro 
assisted  me,  and  the  nuns  and  some  other  Cath- 
olics received  communion  at  my  Mass.  I  paid 
all  the  fees,  and  breakfasted  with  Padre  Pietro, 
who  lives  very  poorly,  but  contented,  in  his  mission 
of  Old  Cairo.x 

This  church  is  commonly  called  Coptic,  because 
the  Copts  are  the  original  Egyptians,  but  in  real- 
ity it  is  Jacobite.  The  Coptic  church  is  curious 
and  interesting  ;  it  is  the  type  of  all  their  churches. 
It  consists  of  four  parallel  aisles,  of  which,  what  1 
call  the  central,  is  terminated  by  an  apse.  The 
arches  are  pointed  and  of  Byzantine  style.  The 
n. — 5 


V4  THE   PYRAMIDS  —  OLD    CAIRO. 

pulpit  is  long  enough  to  admit  three  or  four  per- 
sons at  once,  as  is  the  practice,  as  I  believe.  The 
church  is  subdivided  by  many  wooden  screens,  and 
there  are  latticed  cages  for  women  who  have 
adopted  the  Mohammedan  system  of  veiling  them- 
selves. The  house  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  was 
converted  into  a  'little  church  by  the  primitive 
Christians.  St.  Helen  built  a  large  church  over 
it.  They  were  in  possession  of  the  Catholics. 
The  Copts  took  hold  of  it  when  the  Catholics 
were  persecuted  and  expelled.  On  their  return 
the  Copts  refused  to  restore  it  to  them,  and  they 
applied  to  the  French  Government  for  redress, 
but  in  vain.  However,  the  French  Government 
can  give  permission,  with  the  consent  of  the 
Coptic  priest  or  patriarch,  for  a  Latin  priest  to 
say  Mass,  by  paying  three  francs  to  the  Coptic 
clergyman.  In  this  church  there  are  some  fine 
pictures,  two  of  which  are  called  miraculous,  four 
side  altars,  and  a  curious  baptistery.  The  well 
in  the  baptistery  is  said  to  have  been  created 
miraculously,  for  the  refreshment  of  the  Holy 
Family.  The  whole  quarter  is  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall,  and  is  inhabited  by  Copts  and  a  few 
Greeks  .\ 


CHAPTER    IV. 

EASTERN    EITES. 

/THE  MARONITES — THE  GREEKS  OR  MELCHITES THE  SYRIANS — THE  ARMENIANS 

THE    CHALDEANS THE    COETS THE    ABYSSINIANS THE    LATINS THE    SCHIS- 
MATIC   GREEKS THE     SCHISMATIC    ARMENIANS — THE    JACOBITES     OR    8YRIAH 

MONOPHY81TES THE  SCHISMATIC  COPTS THE    SCHISMATIC  ABYSSINIANS  OR  AF- 
RICAN MQNOPHYS1TES,  AND  THE    NESTORIANS PROTESTANTS.  ^ 

X!N  the  East  I  had  the  opportunity  of  becoming 
acquainted  with  the  different  rites  of  the  Church. 
I  had  read  so  many  curious  and  erroneous  rela- 
tions from  evil-disposed  and  ignorant  travelers 
and  writers,  that  I  had  always  entertained  a  de- 
sire to  become  personally  instructed  in  the 
Oriental  doctrine  and  ritual,  not  only  of  those 
who  are  in  communion  with  Rome,  but  even  with 
those  who,  unfortunately,  are  separated  from  the 
Church.  I  had  heard  of  errors  professed  by 
them  ;  I  had  read  that  they  had  given  the  Holy 
Eucharist  to  Protestant  travelers  and  received 
them  into  their  communion.  I  never  credited 
such  reports.  I  have  had  conversations  on  this 
subject  with  several  Eastern  clergymen,  bishops, 
and  patriarchs  ;  I  have  been  in  their  churches ; 
I  was  present  at  the  celebration  of  their  ecclesias- 
tical rites,  at  the  administration  of  some  of  the 
sacraments,  and  especially  of  Communion.  I 
have  looked  for  information  from  persons  well 

(75) 


76  EASTERN    RITES. 

acquainted  in  the  East,  and  from  competent  au- 
thors, and  I  here  give  a  faithful  relation  on  this 
matter.x 

The  Catholic  rites  in'  the  East  are  eight,  and 
they  possess  distinct  hierarchies  in  union  with 
the  Holy  See.  They  hold  the  same  doctrine  with 
us,  but  they  differ  only  in  their  mode  of  worship, 
and  more  or  less  in  the  discipline  which  they 
have  respectively  received  from  their  ancestors 
and  sanctioned  by  the  Popes.  They  are  the  fol- 
lowing :  The  Maronite,  Melchite  or  Greek,  Syrian, 
Armenian,  Chaldean,  Coptic,  Abyssinian,  and  the 
Latin.  The  last  two  are  generally  governed  by 
vicars  and  delegates-apostolic.  The  schismatic 
Christians  of  the  East  are  the  Greeks,  the  Arme- 
nians, the  Jacobites  or  Syrian  Monophysites,  the 
Copts,  the  Abyssinians  or  Egyptians,  the  African 
Monophysites,  and  the  Nestorians.  They  are  not 
only  separated  from  the  Catholic  Church,  but 
mostly  also  from  each  other.  Some  of  these,  be- 
sides being  schismatics,  maintain  heresies  ;  but  it 
is  more  the  effect  of  ignorance  than  of  obstinacy 
in  their  error.x 

The  Maronites  are  principally  in  Syria,  and  a 
few  in  Palestine  and  Africa.  They  have  several 
bishops  and  archbishops,  and  a  patriarch  in  Anti- 
och,  who  holds  his  jurisdiction  immediately  from 
Borne.  They  profess  never  to  have  swerved  from 
the  Catholic  faith,  and  maintain  that  their  pa- 
triarch is  the  only  one  whose  spiritual  lineage 
from  St.  Peter  in  the  See  of  Antioch  has  never 
been  severed  by  heresy  and  schism.  The  num- 


THE   MARONITES.  77 

V 

ber  of  the  secular  clergy  is  1,200,  and  that  of  the 
regular  1,400,  the  latter  living  in  monasteries. 
There  are  also  nuns  residing  in  Antioch.  The 
bishops  and  regular  clergy  are  obliged  to  live  in 
a  state  of  celibacy  ;  the  secular  clergy  may  be 
married,  but  to  one  wife  only,  that  is,  only  once, 
and  before  taking  Holy  Orders  or  expressing  their 
will.  The  Maronite  ritual,  more  than  any  other 
Oriental  rite,  approaches  that  of  Western  Chris- 
tendom. The  language  is  Syriac,  but  by  direc- 
tion of  the  Holy  See  the  Gospels  and  Lessons  are 
read  also  in  Arabic,  and  the  entire  Bible  has  been 
lately  translated  and  written  in  the  Arabic  lan- 
guage. The  Pope  has  granted  them  the  privilege 
of  using  the  same  vestments  as  the  Latins,  but  it 
is  doubtful  whether  this  privilege  works  well  in 
the  East.  They  seldom  avail  themselves  of  this 
permission  ;  they  prefer  their  own  form.  Although 
the  order  of  the  parts  of  the  Mass  is  more  simi- 
lar to  the  Latin  than  Other  rites,  yet  they  use 
incense  at  Low  Mass  as  well  as  at  High  Mass. 
They  have  adopted  the  Eoman  Calendar.  Their 
name  is  derived  from  that  of  St.  Maro  or  Maromi, 
a  holy  recluse  who,  in  the  fourth  century,  when 
the  heresy  of  Eutyches  and  Monothelitism 
were  making  havoc  in  the  East,  preserved  the 
inhabitants  of  this  mountainous  district  in  which 
he  dwelt,  from  the  contagion  of  those  heretics. \ 

The  Greek  Uniates  or  Catholics,  or  Melchites, 
are  so  called  from  the  Arabic  name  melek,  (a  king,) 
to  distinguish  them  from  the  Eutychian  heretics, 
owing  to  the  great  assistance  to  the  Catholic  cause 


78  EASTERN    RITES. 

given  by  the  Emperor  Marcian  ;  or,  as  others 
assert,  they  received  that  name  when  they  re- 
mained under  the  imperial  power,  while  the  other 
Syrians  had  declared  themselves  independent  of 
the  Emperor.  They  have  three  patriarchs,  resid- 
ing in  Antloch,  Alexandria,  and  Jerusalem,  who 
have  several  suffragan  bishops.  The  clergy  have 
the  same  discipline  as  the  Maronites,  except  that 
the  clergy  are  all  seculars.  There  are  not  many 
in  Asia,  but  in  Europe  they  are  numerous,  espe- 
cially in  Austria,  Greece,  Russia,  Italy,  and  Tur- 
key. The  Russian  Government  is  making  every 
effort,  even  by  open  persecution,  to  detach  the 
Greek  Catholics  from  their  obedience  to  the  Holy 
See.  They  still  use  their  ancient  calendar  ;  they 
consecrate  unleavened  bread,  and  communicate 
in  both  kinds.  The  Melchite  ritual  is  threefold  : 
the  rite  of  St.  Basil,  that  of  St.  John  Chrysostom, 
and  the  Lenten  rite,  called  the  prce-sanctifaatmn, 
from  the  practice  of  not  consecrating  on  the  ferial 
days  during  Lent.  They  reserve  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  hosts,  consecrated  on  the  Sunday  of  Lent, 
to  be  used  for  the  ensuing  week,  just  as  we  do 
on  Good  Friday,  using  a  prce-sanctificatum  of  the 
preceding  day,  Holy  Thursday.  By  order  of  the 
Holy  See,  the  whole  of  these  rituals  have  been 
translated  from  the  original  Greek  into  the  Ara- 
bic, for  the  use  of  those  patriarchatesA 

The  Syrians  have  a  Patriarch  in  Antioch  (now 
residing  in  Aleppo),  and  about  one  dozen 
bishops.  The  clergy  have  the  same  discipline  as 
the  Greek,  and  are  very  intelligent,  but  they  are 


THE   SYRIANS.  79 

V 

not  numerous.  They  reside  in  Syria,  Palestine, 
Mesopotamia,  some  of  them  are  found  in  Africa, 
and  a  few  at  other  places.  Some  Syrians  had 
embraced  the  heresy  of  Eutyches  in  the  sixth 
century,  and  they  were,  like  other  Monophysites, 
called  Jacobites  from  their  leader  James  Bara- 
daeus.  In  1783  their  Patriarch  Giarve  made  his 
submission  to  the  Church,  and  was  confirmed  in 
his  See  by  the  Pope.  The  schismatic  Syrians 
are  daily  returning  to  the  Catholic  Church.  The 
liturgy  is  in  Syriac,  but  by  order  of  the  Holy  See 
it  is  translated  nearly  entire  into  the  Arabian 
language.  A  colony  of  200,000  Syrians,  of  whom 
more  than  150,000  are  Catholics  is  found  in  Trav- 
ancore  and  Cochin,  the  field  of  the  apostolic  labors 
of  St.  Francis  Xavier.  Although  they  have  been 
considered  Schismatics,  in  reality  they  were 
Catholics.  Their  lapse  may  be  considered  as  the 
result  of  mere  oblivion  and  isolation  ;  and,  indeed, 
when  the  Portuguese,  in  the  sixteenth  century, 
made  overtures  to  them,  they  immediately  re- 
turned to  the  Church  without  any  difficulty,  and 
the  rest  of  that  colony  are  daily  quitting  the 
schism.  Indeed,  in  880,  Alfred,  King  of  England, 
having  heard  of  their  isolation  and  opposition, 
sent  an  ecclesiastical  envoy  promising  to  them 
means  of  intercourse  with  them  and  they  submitted. 
It  is  said  that  this  colony  had  been  led  hither  in 
the  first  or  second  age  of  the  Church,  and  was 
evangelized  by  St.  Thomas,  an  Armenian  mission- 
ary from  whom  they  were  called  San  Thome  Chris- 
tians. They  have  never  been  heretical,  although 


80  EASTERN   RITES. 

they  have  been  wrongfully  accused  of  being 
tainted  with  Nestorianism.  Their  Metropolitan 
resides  in  Malabar.  By  the  care  of  the  Holy  See 
the  greater  part  of  the  Mass  and  the  New  Testa- 
ment, and  books  of  devotion  and  instructions 
have  been  translated  into  the  vernacular  and  the 
Malayalim  language .\ 

The  Armenians  are  very  ancient,  and  their  lit- 
urgy is  in  the  ancient  Armenian  tongue,  very  little 
different  from  that  now  in  use  among  them. 
Their  large  and  beautiful  collection  of  hymns  is 
almost  untouched  since  the  time  of  their  great 
Apostle  St.  Gregory ;  abounding  in  the  refutation 
of  the  heresy  of  Eutyches  and  other  errors.  They 
have  a  Patriarch  in  Cilicia,  residing  in  Bezourmar, 
a  Primate  Archbishop  in  Constantinople,  and 
several  other  archbishops  and  bishops.  The 
regular  clergy  cannot  marry,  but  the  secular 
clergy  may  as  in  the  other  eastern  rites.  They 
are  in  Asia  Minor,  Syria,  Palestine,  Turkey, 
Georgia,  Russian  Caucasus,  and  some  in  Italy, 
Greece  and  Africa.  The  Armenian  clergy  are 
highly  educated,  and  very  pious  and  zealous. 
Many  of  them  are  very  efficient  missionaries  in 
the  East.  A  part  of  the  Armenians  are  called 
Mechitarists  from  a  certain  zealous  and  holy  man 
called  MecJiitar  (The  Consoler)  who  was  the  in- 
strument of  the  conversion  of  a  large  number  of 
his  countrymen.  The  Mechitarists  are  found 
in  Morea.  There  are  a  few  of  them  in  Italy, 
in  Austria,  and  in  the  East  generally .\ 

The  Chaldeans  are  not  numerous  ;  there  may 


THE   CHALBEAXS.  81 

s 

be  between  twenty  and  thirty  thousand  altogether, 
scattered  in  Mesopotamia.  Persia,  Armenia,  Kur- 
distan, and  a  few  in  Palestine.  They  have  a 
Patriarch  in  Mossul,  but  he  resides  in  Bagdad, 
and  seven  or  eight  bishops.  About  the  year  1551 
the  Nestorians,  who  had  persisted  in  their  heresy, 
met  in  order  to  nil  the  Patriarchate  which  was 
vacant;  they  disagreed  among  themselves  about 
the  individual  who  was  to  be  elected.  The  natural 
successor  was  a  certain  Simon  Bar-Mama,  but  the 
bishops,  considering  him  unfit  for  the  office,  chose 
another.  They  assembled  at  Mossul  to  consult 
about  the  means  of  obtaining  the  requisite  juris- 
diction for  their  candidates,  and  it  was  here,  and 
on  this  occasion,  that  they  determined  to  submit 
to  the  Church  and  ask  the  Pope's  confirmation. 
This  was  accordingly  done  ;  but  a  few  bishops  per- 
sisted in  nominating  Simon  to  the  Patriarchate,  and 
the  third  in  succession  from  him  succeeded  in 
expelling  the  Catholic  Patriarch  and  driving 
him  into  exile.  Since  then  the  Catholic  Patriarch 
has  resided  in  Bagdad.  Their  liturgical  books 
are  all  in  Straugtielo,  a  kind  of  dialect  from  the 
ancient  Chaldean.  The  Holy  See  has  caused 
these  books  to  be  purged  of  the  Nestorian  taint 
and  translated  into  the  Arabic  language,  which 
can  now  be  considered  their  vernacularA 

Since  the  separation  of  the  Copts  from  the  Church 
the  Coptic  Catholics  have  been  governed  by  a 
Vicar-Apostolic  residing  in  Cairo,  who  has  jur- 
isdiction over  all  Copts  in  Egypt.  Besides  Cairo, 
there  are  six  Coptic  missions  in  Egypt,  filled  by 


82  EASTERN   RITES. 

Franciscans,  and  under  the  Propaganda.  About 
one  third  of  the  Coptic  population,  which  is 
200,000,  is  Catholic.  Four  Coptic  Bishops  have 
made  their  submission  to  Rome.  The  Coptic 
ordination  is  the  only  one  amongst  the  Oriental 
rites  of  which  Rome  entertains  doubt  as  to  its  valid- 
ity, because  the  Coptic  form  of  conferring  orders 
is  very  irregular  ;  hence  when  a  Coptic  bishop  or 
priest  submits  to  Rome  he  is  re-ordained  under  con- 
ditions. When  Copts  become  converted  they  are 
aggregated  to  the  Franciscan  Coptic  missions,  to 
every  one  of  which  one  or  two  native  Coptic 
priests  is  attached.  The  Coptic  converts  retain 
their  own  rite,  whose  existence  is  distinctly  rec- 
ognized by  Rome.  Their  liturgical  books  are  in 
the  Coptic  language,  which  represents  the  ancient 
phonetic  Egyptian  ;  they  were  originally  very 
heretical,  but  they  have  been  largely  expurged 
and  in  part  translated  into  the  Arabic.  The  dis- 
cipline of  the  clergy  is  nearly  like  the  rest  of  the 
Orientals.  I  understand  that  Pius  TX.  either  has 
or  is  about  to  establish  a  regular  Coptic  Hierarchy 
under  a  Coptic  Patriarch  to  reside  in  Cairo.\ 

The  Abyssinian  Catholics  have  lately  increased 
very  much,  as  several  bishops  and  many  of  the 
clergy  have  submitted  to  the  Church.  They 
count  at  present  2,000,000,  one  sixth  of  the  whole 
population  of  that  empire,  arid  are  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  a  Vicariate  -  Apostolic.  The 
people  are  docile  and  intelligent,  but  utterly 
undisciplined  and  profoundly  heretical  and  de- 
moralized. Through  the  efforts  of  zealous  mis- 


THE   SCHISMATIC    CHRIST  FANS.  83 

sionaries  in  the  last  century  the  Abyssinian 
Emperor  recognized  Father  Alphonsus  Meudez 
as  Catholic  Patriarch  and  rejected  the  authority 
of  the  Schismatic  Patriarch  of  Alexandria  ;  but 
the  monks  and  clergy  who  are  very  dissolute  and 
corrupt  raised  such  commotion,  and  so  excited  the 
people  to  open  revolt  that  the  emperor  banished 
the  Catholic  clergy,  and  under  severe  penalties 
forbade  the  Copts  to  have  any  communication  with 
the  Holy  See.  The  liturgy  is  Ethiopic,  but  is 
in  course  of  translation  into  Amharic,  as  few  un- 
derstand the  former  language. \ 

The  Latins  have  several  Dioceses,  ten  Vicars- 
Apostolic,  besides  three  Prefects  -  Apostolic  in 
Africa.  During  the  time  of  the  Latin  Kingdom 
of  Jerusalem,  acquired  by  the  noble  efforts  of  the 
Crusaders  under  the  great  Godfrey  of  Bouillon, 
the  Latin  rite  was  very  extensive,  especially  in 
Palestine  ;  but  at  present  it  is  very  limited.  Yet 
as  the  Franciscans  are  the  guardians  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  and  the  Holy  Places,  divine  service  in 
these  sanctuaries  is  performed  according  to  the 
Latin  ritual.x 

The  Separatists,  or  Schismatic  Christians  of  the 
East,  are  the  Greeks,  the  Armenians,  the  Jacobites 
or  Syrian  Monophysites,  the  Copts  or  Egyptians, 
the  Abyssinians  or  African  Monophysites,  and 
the  Nestor ians.  As  the  unity  of  the  Church  con- 
sists in  the  unity  of  doctrine,  worship  and  govern- 
ment, these  Separatists  break  this  unity  in 
departing  in  one  or  more  of  these  points.  The 
Greeks  are  accused  of  denying  the  procession  of 


84  EASTERN   RITES. 

the  Holy  Ghost,  but  this   accusation  is  unjust. 
Individuals  may  appear  so  for  want  of  instruction, 
but  the  bulk  of  the  Schismatic  Greeks  are  sound  in 
dogma.     The  Abyssinian  Greeks  are  also  accused 
of  differing  from  the  Church  on  the  doctrine  of 
Tran  substantiation,  but  this  accusation  is  also  un- 
founded.    The  Church  has  never  condemned  nor 
accused  the  Greeks  of  heresy,  but  they  have  been 
condemned  only  as  Schismatics.     The  Council  of 
Ferrara,  under  Eugene  IV.,  is  a  sufficient  proof 
of  it.\ 

The  Greeks  (Schismatics)  are  divided  into  three 
distinct  Churches  ;  between  which  entire  inter- 
communion prevails  ;  subjects  of  the  Sultan,  those 
of  the  Czar,  and  those  of  the  King  of  Greece 
The  Turkish  Greeks  have  four  Patriarchs  ;  that 
of  Constantinople,  whose  jurisdiction  extends  over 
all  bishops  of  Turkey  in  Europe  and  greater  part  of 
Asia  Minor  ;  that  of  Alexandria  who  has  authority 
over  all  bishops  of  Egypt,  Nubia  and  part  of 
Arabia  ;  that  of  Antioch,  whose  jurisdiction  em- 
braces all  the  bishops  of  Syria,  Mesopotamia  and 
Cilicia  ;  that  of  Jerusalem,  in  whose  authority 
are  included  the  bishops  of  Palestine,  and  beyond 
the  Jordan,  and  Idumea.\ 

The  Russian  Greeks  have  passed  through 
several  forms  of  Church  government  They  had 
bishops  formerly  dependent  from  the  Patriarch 
of  Constantinople.  A  Metropolitan  See  was  es- 
tablished successively  at  Kiew,  Vladimir,  and 
Moscow.  It  was  afterwards  erected  into  a  Pa- 
triarchate. Peter  the  Great  abolished  it  and 


THE   SCHISMATIC    ARMENIANS.  85 

erected  a  committee  or  board  of  bishops  and 
others,  styled  the  Holy  Governing  Synod,  to  whom 
he  intrusted  the  direction  of  his  Church,  subject  to 
his  control.x 

The  Greek  National  Church  has  a  bishop  at 
Athens, called  Primus,  and  about  fourteen  Diocesan 
bishops.  The  Constantinopolitan  Patriarch  was 
asked  to  surrender  the  right  of  jurisdiction  which 
he  held  over  them,  and  he  did  so.  The  entire 
number  of  Greek  Schismatics  is  put  down  by 
some  at  56,360,000.\ 

The  Armenians  till  lately  have  been  under  one 
head,  the  Catholicus,  a  title  once  given  to  one  who 
presided  over  a  whole  external  region  of  the  ex 
isting  ecclesiastical  arrangement,  but  now  it 
means  a  kind  of  Primate,  who  was  called  also 
Patriarch  of  Etchmiazin.  He,  the  Patriarch  of 
Sis,  that  of  Aghtamar  (in  Lake  Van)  and  that  of 
the,  Caspian  Albanians,  called  once  Aghorans 
form  the  supreme  hierarchy.  The  Patriarchs  of 
Constantinople  and  Jerusalem  were  suffragans  of 
the  See  of  Sis,  or  Cilicia.  When  Russia  acquired 
the  two  Persian  provinces  of  Nakhchevan  and 
Erivan,  Etchmiazin  (about  three  miles  from 
Erivan)  became  a  See  appertaining  to  Russia. 
It  was  then  that  the  Turkish  Armenians  were 
withdrawn  from  its  jurisdiction,  and  the  Catholicus 
of  Aghoran  became  a  Suffragan  of  Etchmiazin. 
By  order  of  the  Russian  Government  that  Patri- 
arch received  a  jurisdiction  over  ten  Russian  Sees, 
and  three  in  Persia  and  Hindostan.  That  Patri- 
arch is  nominated  by  the  Emperor,  and  very  soon 


86  EASTERN    RITES. 

it  will  be  absorbed  in  the  Russian  Holy  Govern- 
ing Synod.  In  this  manner  twelve  dioceses,  a 
large  number  of  clergy,  and  500,000  people  were 
consolidated  in  the  Bussian  Church.  The  Turkish 
Armenians  were  nominally  placed  under  the 
Patriarchate  of  Cilicia  ;  but  in  fact  the  See  of 
Constantinople  is  the  next  in  importance,  and  the 
Sultan  addresses  his  Firmans  to  his  Armenian 
subjects  through  the  Patriarch  of  Constantinople. \ 
About  the  fifth  century  the  Armenians  rejected 
the  errors  of  Arius  and  Nestorius,  and,  while  in 
the  same  national  synod  they  refused  to  accept 
the  decrees  of  Chalcedon,  they  at  the  same  time 
condemned  the  heresy  of  Eutyches.  Yet  under 
the  influence  of  Barsumar  in  the  assembly  at 
Yaghershabad  in  491,  and  by  their  CatJiolicus 
(then  a  Suffragan  of  the  Syrian  Patriarch  under 
the  Primate  of  Pontine  Cceserea)  and  their  col- 
league bishops,  they  pronounced  in  favor  of  the 
Monophysite  doctrine.  They  imagined  that  they 
had  steered  a  middle  course  between  Nestorius 
and  Eutyches,  whom  they  anathematized.  Political 
events  produced  many  changes.  In  the  thirteenth 
century  the  new  Armenian  kingdom  sprung  up, 
and  extended  from  Mount  Taurus  to  the  southern 
coast,  including  a  part  of  Cilicia,  then  overrun  by 
the  Memlooks  of  Egypt.  Since  that  time  the 
Armenians  have  been  dispersed  through  the 
Turkish  Empire.  The  Armenians  are  well  in- 
structed, good,  and  pious.  Their  churches  are 
much  like  the  Catholic  edifices.  They  hear  con- 
fessions, the  priest  sitting  on  the  ground,  and  the 


THE   SCHISMATIC    COPTS.  87 

V 

penitent  kneeling  before  him.  Their  conduct 
in  church  is  becoming,  grave,  and  decorous. 
They  appear  separated  from  the  Church  more  by 
prejudice  and  inveterate  habit  than  by  malice. 
Their  hymnology  remains  as  in  the  time  of  St. 
Gregory.  They  are  most  orthodox.  Their 
liturgy  is  in  the  old  Armenian,  and  is  understood 
by  the  people  as  the  Latin  is  by  the  western 
Catholics.  They  celebrate  the  feast  of  St.  Peter 
with  great  pomp.  It  is  really  moving  on  that 
occasion  to  hear  them  singing  in  the  words  and 
tongue  of  the  fourteenth  century  the  praises  of 
the  Chief  of  the  Apostles,  of  the  rock  of  the 
Church,  of  the  foundation  of  faith,  etc.\ 

The  Copts  are  generally  governed  by  a  Patri- 
arch, who  resides  in  Alexandria,  who  has  a  great 
number  of  suffragan  bishops.  The  titular  Patri- 
arch of  Jerusalem,  who  resides  at  Cairo,  is  under 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  resident  Patriarch  of  Alex- 
andria. It  is  he  who  nominates  and  consecrates 
the  Abuna;  that  is,  the  supreme  head  of  the 
Abyssinians,  who  are  in  communion  with  the 
Copts.  The  clergy,  both  regular  and  secular, 
are  married  ;  the  former  belong  to  three  orders  ; 
that  of  St.  Anthony  ;  that  of  St.  Paul,  the  Hermit, 
and  the  order  of  St.  Macarius.  The  Convents 
look  like  villages,  generally  enclosed  by  walls, 
and  are  governed  by  a  Goumos  (Agoumenos, 
leader  or  head)  who  exercises  both  spiritual  and 
temporal  authority,  and  may  be  said  to  be  a  regu- 
lar Sheik.  The  Copts  are  descendants  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians,  and  the  Schismatics  number 


88  EASTERN   RITES. 

about  150,000.  They  accept  the  three  first  gene- 
ral councils  of  the  Church,  but  obstinately  re- 
ject the  Council  of  Chalcedon.  not  on  account  of 
the  doctrine,  which  they  profess  to  hold,  but  on 
account  of  the  irregularity  which  they  assert  ex- 
isted in  that  council.  They  say  that  the 
place  for  the  convocation  of  the  council  had 
been  fixed  at  Nicea,  but  through  the  in- 
trigues of  Marcian.  Emperor  of  Constantinople 
and  his  wife  Pulcheria,  who  were  both  pre- 
sent at  this  council,  the  place  was  chang- 
ed for  Chalcedon,  near  Constantinople.  In 
reality  bloody  rebellions  in  Palestine  and  in 
Egypt  were  the  immediate  consequences  of  the 
decrees  of  the  council  against  Dioscorus  and 
the  Monophysites  ;  and  not  until  after  a  long 
period  of  ecclesiastical  disputes  was  this  council 
received  by  the  Church.  In  matters  of  discipline 
the  Greeks  record  thirty  canons  but  the  Latins 
number  only  twenty-eight.  The  Copts  rejected  the 
entire  council,  and  unfortunately  founded  a  dis- 
tinct Church.  They  are  tainted  with  the  heresy  of 
Eutyches  and  are  Monophysites.  They  practice 
circumcision,  a  custom  learned  from  the  Arabs. 
This  is  the  only  eastern  rite  of  which  the  Church 
doubts  as  to  the  validity  of  their  ordination  of  the 
clergy.  They  are  ignorant,  and  few  of  the  clergy 
comprehend  the  language  in  which  their  liturgy 
is  written.  They  are  described  to  be  of  such 
loose  morals  and  discipline  that  their  religion  is 
a  by-word  among  the  heathen.  Divorce  is  obtain- 
able for  money,  even  a  few  days  or  weeks  after 


THE    ABYSSINIANS.  89 

the  celebration  of  the  marriage,  or  persons  may 
make  a  bargain  with  the  clergy  to  be  married 
only  for  a  few  days  or  weeks. \ 

The  Abyssiiiians  are  under  an  Abuna,  usually 
a  Copt,  chosen  from  some  convent  in  Egypt,  and 
consequently  ignorant  of  the  Liturgic  tongue,  (the 
Ethiopic)  or  the  vernacular  (the  Uniharic)  lan- 
guage of  his  spiritual  people.  The  number  of  the 
clergy  is  said  to  be  100,000,  the  most  part  of  whom 
are  regulars,  living  in  large  convents,  or  as  hermits, 
but  all  can  marry.  The  Abyssinians  numbering 
10,000,000  are  in  communion  with  the  Copts,  and 
have  the  same  errors,  but  they  are  of  a  more  re- 
ligious character  ;  more  attached  to  the  Holy 
Bible,  especially  the  Old  Testament.  They  pro- 
fess great  respect  for  the  clergy,  and  are  very 
observant  of  the  Sabbath  as  well  as  Sunday.  They 
practice  circumcision  ;  which  they  have  learned 
from  the  Jews  and  not  from  the  Mohammedans, 
like  the  Copts.  The  Jewish  customs  are  derived 
from  their  association  with  200,000  emigrants, 
mentioned  by  Herodotus  in  his  history,  who  are 
conjectured  to  have  been  exiles  from  the  Jewish 
nation.  The  Eunuch,  a  high,  officer  of  the  Queen 
Candace,  became  converted  while  studying  the 
Holy  Scriptures,  as  he  went  down  through  the 
desert.  He  belonged  to  this  nation,  which  he 
brought  to  the  Catholic  faith  by  his  noble  con- 
version. There  are  many  traces  of  Jewish  cus- 
toms amongst  the  Abyssinians.  They  have  to  this 
day  a  favorite  practice  of  studying  Holy  Writ ; 
but  this  inclination  is  unhappily  abused,  because 
ii.— 6 


90  EASTERN    RITES. 

the  various  opinions  or  interpretations  of  the 
Scripture  divide  both  clergy  and  people  into 
different  parties.  The  descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost 
on  Our  Lord  is  a  favorite  subject  of  dispute  among 
them.\ 

The  Nestorians  formed  a  distinct  sect  in  the  fifth 
century,  under  Barsumas,  Bishop  of  Nisibis.  Their 
Patriarch  resides  at  Mossul,  and  his  jurisdiction 
extends  over  some  twenty  diocesans,  over  the 
greatest  part  of  Asia,  including  the  Arabian 
Nestorians ;  and  his  office  is  hereditary,  and  con- 
ferred by  an  election  of  the  whole  episcopal  body. 
They  profess  to  be  Catholics  ;  they  repudiate  the 
name  of  Nestorians,  and  say  that  their  name  in 
the  East  (that  of  Nu&rani),  means  simply  "  of 
Nazareth."  About  the  end  of  the  fifth  century 
they  appointed  a  Nestorian  Patriarch,  who  took 
the  title  of  CatJiolicus  of  Babylon,  and  claimed  to 
be  the  head  of  the  whole  sect.  Under  the  Arabian 
rule  they  extended  into  Western  Asia,  Tartary, 
and  China.  Now  their  Hierarchy  numbers  twenty- 
five  Metropolitans,  and  although  the  sect  was  once 
very  large  it  has  now  gradually  declined.  The 
seat  of  their  Patriarch  was  first  at  Ctesiphon, 
then  at  Bagdad,  and  finally  in  1559  in  Mossul. 
Their  liturgy  is  in  Syriac,  of  which  the  ver- 
nacular is  a  dialect,  and  it  is  written  in  a  peculiar 
character,  which  resembles  the  Strarighelo,  but 
is  not  quite  the  same  ;  it  is  a  kind  of  very  ancient 
Syrian  orthography.  Their  theology  is  very  un- 
certain and  their  orthodoxy  is  daily  diminishing. 
The  -converts  are  aggregated  to  the  Chaldean 


THE   PROTESTANTS.  91 

s 

Catholic  rite.  At  first  they  had  the  seven  sacra- 
ments, but  confession  and  confirmation  have  fallen 
into  disuse.  They  have  a  great  reverence  for  the 
Blessed  Sacrament.  They  consecrate  in  leavened 
bread,  the  leaven  being  made  annually  on  Holy 
Thursday  in  Holy  Week.  They  have  great 
facility  for  divorce.  They  as  a  body  maintain 
open  communion.  Their  clergy  can  marry  several 
times  after  the  death  of  the  wife,  even  after  their 
ordination.  In  general  they  are  ignorant  and 
deserve  to  be  pitied  rather  than  blamed  for  their 
errors.x 

The  Protestants  in  the  East  do  not  succeed  in 
their  efforts  to  spread  their  spurious  Christianity. 
They  frequent  the  society  of  loose  heretics,  es- 
pecially of  the  Copts,  but  they  are  seldom  admitted 
to  their  communion.  Several  Protestant  travel- 
ers boast  that  eastern  heretics  gave  them  com- 
munion, but  they  are  mistaken.  While  traveling 
in  Africa  and  Asia  I  made  this  a  special  point  in 
my  researches.  Many  Oriental  Schismatics  before 
consecration  prepare  a  plate  of  small  loaves  of 
bread  and  bless  it.  Then  before  the  time  of  the  con- 
secration they  take  one  of  these  loaves,  leaving 
the  rest  in  the  plate,  which  they  remove  to  a 
place  outside  of  the  altar,  and  they  consecrate  only 
that  one  loaf,  with  which  they  communicate  them- 
selves and  others.  After  Mass  they  take  the 
other  loaves  not  consecrated,  but  only  blessed, 
which  they  distribute  to  all  those  that  are  pre- 
sent. It  was  offered  also  to  me  whenever  I 
was  there,  but  of  course  I  refused  to  receive  it. 


92  EASTERN    RITES. 

This  bread  is  kept  for  days  and  weeks  in  some 
corner  of  the  church.  It  is  this  blessed  bread  that 
they  have  given  to  Protestants,  and  not  the  con- 
secrated, as  they  erroneously  believe.\ 


CHAPTER  V. 

CAIRO — CONTINUED . 

\MOSQUE  OF  TAYLOON — TOMBS  OF  THE  CALIPIIS — TREE  OF  THE  B.  v.  MARY— 

HELrOPOLIS PETRIFIED    FOEEsT PYRAMIDS    OF    8AKKARA INTERIOR   OF  THE 

PYRAMIDS — MEMPHIS CROCODOPOLIS TOMBS SIOUT — TEMPLE   OF  DENDERA 

TUEBES — TEMPLE  OF    KARXAK    AND    LL'XOR MEMKOXIUM — ESNE ASSUAN.\ 

\CAIRO,  with  about  300  mosques  ornamented  with 
elegant  marble  columns  brought  from  the  temples 
of  Memphis  and  Heliopolis,  some  of  them  having 
as  many  as  six  graceful  minarets,  presents  a  wide 
field  to  entertain  the  traveler.  One  afternoon 
riding  on  a  donkey,  and  accompanied  by  an 
Arabian  dragoman,  I  went  to  visit  the  famous 
Mosque  of  Tayloon,  which,  next  to  that  of  Am'r 
is  the  most  ancient  in  the  city.  It  exhibits  the 
earliest  instance  of  the  pointed  arch,  which  pre- 
vails throughout  the  building  without  exception. 
It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  square  with  two  min- 
arets at  the  south  and  northeast  angles.  The 
sides  consist  of  a  double  colonnade  on  three  sides 
and  a  fourfold  one  on  the  east.  The  exterior 
facing  the  court  has  a  cresting  of  complicated 
decorations  with  small  square  turrets  at  intervals, 
and  under  it  a  succession  of  small  circles  con- 
taining various  foliations  each  different  from 
the  other.  The  windows  contain  painted  glass 

(93) 


94  CAIRO. 

inserted  in  stone.  The  mecherab  is  enclosed 
in  a  very  elegant  series  of  mouldings.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  built  by  Ahmed  Ebu-e-Tayloon,  in 
868-906  B.  c.  He  was  the  Sultan  who  may  be 
said  to  have  been  the  founder  of  the  Egyptian 
Government,  almost  independent  from  Constanti- 
nople. One  day  while  absorbed  in  mind, while  with 
his  hands  he  was  idly  twisting  up  a  piece  of  paper, 
his  Vizier  reproached  him  for  this  apparent  silli- 
ness, and  he  defended  himself,  saying  that  he  was 
planning  a  minaret  for  his  new  mosque  upon  quite 
a  different  design  from  any  hitherto  known.  This 
beautiful  mosque  is  very  much  out  of  repair  and 
it  will  soon  fall  to  pieces.  In  the  centre  of  the 
court  is  a  very  picturesque  dome  surmounting  the 
fountain  of  the  mosque,  and  the  interior  is  decor- 
ated with  arcades  and  windows.  The  founder 
constructed  an  outside  circular  staircase  round  the 
minaret,  that  he  might  ride  to  the  top  on  horseback.^ 
On  another  afternoon  I  hired  a  donkey  to  go  to 
Heliopolis,  accompanied  by  nobody  except  the 
Arabian  boy,  the  owner  of  the  animal.  We  went 
through  the  principal  gate  of  the  city  called 
11  Bab-e-Nusr  "  or  Gate  of  the  City,  in  order  to 
visit  on  our  way  the  extensive  tombs  of  the 
Mamelukes,  which  lie  east  of  Cairo.  In  this  vast 
cemetery,  ranges  of  tombs  extend  for  miles  into  the 
desert,  and  I  was  impressed  with  the  solemn  still- 
ness and  gloomy  grandeur  of  a  last  resting  place 
among  the  eternal  sands  of  the  desert.  This  city 
of  the  dead  is  most  appropriately  situated  on  the 
verge  of  the  desert,  secured  and  protected  from 


TOMBS    OF   THE   MAMELUKES.  95 

V 

the  busy  bustle  of  the  city.  The  Mamelukes, 
originally  slaves  from  the  foot  of  the  Caucasus, 
then  the  lords  and  caliphs  of  Egypt,  now  an  ex- 
terminated race,  for  centuries  and  centuries  are 
sleeping  in  their  magnificent  tombs,  whose  noble 
proportions  and  dignified  air  called  from  me  a 
feeling  of  regret  for  the  extinguished  race  of  the 
Saracens.  These  tombs  of  the  caliphs,  the  mau- 
soleums of  the  Mamelukes,  kings  of  the  Circassian 
dynasty,  after  five  hundred  years  of  existence, 
now  neglected  and  squalid,  maintain  their  beauty 
unimpaired.  The  tombs  are  large  and  handsome 
buildings,  with  domes  and  minarets  ;  the  interior 
is  beautifully  wrought,  and  the  windows  are  set 
with  stained  glass.  The  lofty  piers,  bearing  up 
the  pointed  arches  of  their  cloisters,  the  myste- 
rious interior  structure  of  these  gloomy  palaces 
for  the  habitation  of  the  departed,  the  bold-spring- 
ing domes,  and  the  silent,  gorgeous  chambers  of 
death  below  pointing  heavenward,  and  the  grace- 
ful, slender  minarets,  from  which  these  poor  dead 
heathens  have  loudly  and  faithfully  sung  five 
times  a  day  for  many  a  century  the  praises  of  a 
God  whom  they  have  in  their  ignorance  worship- 
ped, bear  witness  for  them  that  they  were  look- 
ing for  another  life  besides  the  present,  and  that 
they  were  searching,  working,  and  hoping  for  an- 
other existence  beyond  the  grave,  to  be  met  at 
the  close  of  this  life.  No  inscriptions  were  en- 
graved to  beg  the  prayers  of  kind  and  pious  vis- 
itors, but  a  powerful  voice  from  the  silent  tombs 
was  forcibly  and  loudly  calling  for  a  "  May  they 
rest  in  peace."/ 


96  CAIRO. 

In  one  uf  these  tombs,  richly  decorated  with 
marbles  and  carpets,  I  was  shown  two  stones, 
placed  under  small  tabernacles,  on  which  are  re- 
spectively impressed  the  form  of  a  foot  and  two 
hands  of  the  Prophet  Mohammed,  as  they  told 
me  ;  but  as  in  the  East  there  are  several  of  such 
stones,  having  the  impressions  of  a  foot  and  two 
hands,  said  to  be  those  of  the  prophet,  I  paid  no 
attention  to  the  story.  Many  tombs  of  this  long 
range  have  been  destroyed,  in  order  to  build 
other  monuments  ;  and  this  work  of  devastation 
continues  very  briskly,  till  eventually  the  entire 
range  will  disappear.  In  a  large  cemetery,  to  the 
south  of  the  city,  there  is  the  tomb  of  Ibraham 
Pacha.  Fallen,  changed,  entirely  revolutionized 
as  the  land  of  Egypt  is,  even  at  present  the  in- 
habitants pay,  in  a  scrupulous  manner,  a  pecu- 
liar regard  to  the  structure  of  tombs  to  inter  their 
remains.  This  tomb  is  considered  to  be  the  best  ed- 
ifice of  modern  Egypt.  It  has  several  large  rooms, 
finely  finished  and  decorated,  surmounted  with  cu- 
polas and  embellished  with  many  graceful  minarets. 
The  interior  is  imposing  and  solemn  ;  divided 
into  two  chambers.  In  the  first  is  the  body 
of  his  favorite  wife,  surrounded  by  those  of  other 
members  of  the  family  ;  in  the  other  chamber 
there  are  several  tombs,  covered  with  valuable 
Cashmere  shawls.  Some  places  are  yet  unoc- 
cupied, and  in  one  corner  there  is  reserved  a  spot 
for  the  present  pacha.  The  apartment  is  carpet- 
ed and  ornamented  with  divans  and  chairs  for 
the  members  of  his  family  who  come  here  to 


TREE    OF   THE   B.  V.    MARY.  97 

< 

mourn  and  pray.     The  tombs  are  illuminated  by 
lamps.\ 

Leaving  this  City  of  the  Dead,  I  took  the  road 
for  Heliopolis,  which  is  about  three  miles  east  of 
Cairo.  On  the  road  I  saw  the  funeral  of  a  child. 
The  corpse  was  covered  with  a  shawl,  and  not 
coffined,  and  was  carried  by  a  man  holding  it  in 
his  arms.  A  short  procession  was  formed  by 
men,  and  they  chanted  a  kind  of  psalm  in  two 
choruses.  No  women  were  present  at  the  fune- 
ral. The  sun  was  scorching  and  the  sand  burning- 
hot,  but  now  and  then  we  passed  under  the  shade 
of  tamarisks  and  boughs  of  sycamore  trees,  and 
through  gardens  watered  by  irrigation,  and  fields 
of  corn  and  cotton.  A  large  canal  from  the  Nile 
conveyed  water  to  places  many  miles  distant  from 
the  shores  of  the  river,  and  it  is  the  source  of  a  rank 
vegetation  in  this  part  of  the  desert,  which  is  the 
border  of  the  rich  country  of  Gessen,  that  land 
which  Joseph  procured  for  his  father  and  breth- 
ren. The  road  passes  through  the  magnificent 
palace  which  the  pacha  has  built  in  the  desert, 
and  by  the  tombs  of  Melek  Adel,  brother  of  Sa- 
•ladin.  We  arrived  at  the  garden  of  Matarieh, 
where  there  is  a  famous  sycamore  tree  which,  as 
a  time -honored  tradition  says,  had  the  honor  of 
sheltering  the  Holy  Family  in  their  flight  into 
Egypt,  It  is  a  noble  and  venerable  looking  tree. 
I  knelt  on  that  spot  which  had  been  sanctified  by 
the  sacred  presence  of  the  Holy  Family.  I  prayed 
there,  meditating  on  the  great  mystery  of  the 
flight  into  Egypt.  I  kissed  the  ground  conse- 


98  CAIRO. 

crated  by  the  feet  of  Our  Eedeemer,  and  gather- 
ing some  limbs  and  leaves  of  this  holy  tree,  I 
mounted  my  donkey,  and  in  a  short  time  was  on 
the  site  where  Heliopolis  once  stood.x 

There  is  nothing  at  present  to  indicate  the  ru- 
ins of  that  city,  except  an  obelisk,  70  feet  high, 
which  stands  alone  on  a  pedestal  6  feet  and  2 
inches  in  diameter.     This  obelisk  was  erected  by 
Osirtasen,  1750  years  before  Christ.     This  is  the 
pillar  of  On  (in  the  Egyptian  language  signify- 
ing the  sun).     It  is  the  oldest  monument  of  its  kind 
in  existence.      It  is   an  entire   mass  of  reddish 
granite,  covered  with  hieroglyphical  characters. 
According  to  the  custom  of  the  Egyptians,  a  large 
mound  must  have  been  erected  at  the  spot  upon 
which  the  base  of  the  obelisk  stands  ;  but  the  inun- 
dation of  the  Nile  has  raised  the  ground  25  feet 
above  the  base  of  the  obelisk.     Lately  there  have 
been  excavated  some  large  stones  of  a  doorway 
on  which  is  the  oval  of  Thothmes  III.     They  are 
supposed  to  be  part  of  the  magnificent  Temple  of 
the  Sun  which  stood  in  this  place.     Strabo,  that 
famous  geographer/  visited  this  city  soon   after 
the  death  of  Our  Saviour.     He  saw  the  apartments 
in   which,   four   centuries    before,  Eudoxus   and 
Plato  had  studied  the  Egyptian  philosophy,  and 
the  latter  graduated  in  this  city.     The  great  Tem- 
ple of  the  Sun  and  others   were   destroyed  or 
overthrown  by  the  barbarous  Persians,  and  the 
famous  libraries  were   burned   by  the   fanatical 
Arabians.     Now,  a  single  solitary  obelisk — a  mel- 
ancholy monument  and  a  landmark,  in  a  cornfield, 


HELIOPOLIS.  99 

V 

points  out  the  former  greatness  and  the  eternal 
ruins  of  the  famous  City  of  the  Sun.\ 

Heliopolis  was  one  of  the  most  extensive  cities 
of  Egypt,  during  the  reign  of  the  Pharaohs,  and 
its  monuments  were  so  beautiful,  that  it  was  con- 
sidered one  of  the  first  sacred  cities  of  Egypt. 
The  Temple  of  He  was  magnificent,  having  an 
avenue  of  sphinxes  and  adorned  by  obelisks, 
raised  by  order  of  Sethosis  Rameses,  1,900  years 
before  Christ.  The  priests  were  learned,  and 
they  as  well  as  other  scholars  were  instru<4fjd 
within  the  precincts  of  the  temples.  The  present 
town  of  Metarea  is  built  on  a  part  of  the  site  of 
Heliopolis.  Water  was  introduced  in  former 
times  from  the  Nile,  by  means  of  canals  and 
lakes. \ 

Some  Arabs,  who  were  ploughing  in  this  field, 
made  a  great  effort  to  get  backsheesh,  claiming  to 
be  owners  of  the  ground.  One  of  them  even 
threatened  to  stop  me  from  mounting  my  donkey  ; 
but  they  got  nothing.  I  had  been  warned  at  Cairo 
against  this  imposition.  I  was  nearly  out  of  small 
coins,  on  account  of  so  much  backsheesh  given  at 
the  tombs  of  the  caliphs.x 

The  Petrified  Forest  is  the  pompous  name  giv- 
en to  a  number  of  fossil  remains  about  ten  miles 
from  the  city.  I  noticed  in  "  pudding  stones'7  a 
quantity  of  small  sea  shells,  which  shows  how 
correct  Herodotus  was  in  his  view,  that  the  whole 
of  Egypt  once  formed  a  gulf  similar  to  the  Red 
Sea,  which  the  constant  alluvial  deposits  of  the 
Nile  have  gradually  filled  up.\ 


100  CAIRO. 

The  ascent  of  the  Nile,  at  present,  can  be  per- 
formed in  a  few  weeks.  There  is  now  a  line  of 
steamers  belonging  to  the  Azizich  or  Egyptian 
Navigation  Company,  between  Cairo  and  Assouan 
(First  Cataract),  calling  at  different  places  of  in- 
terest on  the  route,  and  remaining  a  sufficient 
time  at  each  to  allow  passengers  to  visit  the  an- 
tiquities. The  journey,  both  ways,  usually  occu- 
pies 25  days,  including  stoppages.  Besides  this, 
there  is  a  well-conducted  railroad  on  the  bank  of 
thOjNile  to  Si  out.  Passengers  who  have  no  time 
to  spare  may  go  to  Siout  by  railroad,  and  there 
take  the  steamer  to  Assouan.  Should  they  de- 
sire to  go  to  the  Second  Cataract,  they  can  hire 
a  boat  at  Assouan.  Besides  the  romantic  scenery 
of  the  Nile,  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  land, 
travelers  can  enjoy  an  abundant  variety  of  game 
on  the  shores,  and  the  view  of  the  picturesque 
villages,  whose  palni-groves  and  slender  minarets 
rise  beautifully  on  the  top  of  mounds  sufficiently 
high  to  avoid  the  inundation  of  the  river.  The 
monuments  of  antiquity,  a  wonder  to  the  nations, 
and  the  remains  of  the  colossal,  gigantic  temples 
and  tombs,  bear  strong  evidence  of  the  enter- 
prise, civilization  and  science  of  Egypt.  The 
Babylonian  Hermes,  2,362  B.C.,  founded  a  State  in 
Ethiopia,  and  the  Ethiopians  and  Babylonians, 
the  first  nations  enlightened  by  Indian  civiliza- 
tion, formed  that  of  Egypt.  The  Jews  gave 
their  contribution,  when  Abraham,  1920  years 
B.C.  entered  Egypt ;  till  Amosis,  from  Thebes, 
1575,  B.C.,  formed  the  Diospolitan  dynasty. 


EGYPTIAN    CUSTOMS.  101 

s 

He  was.  the  king  that  knew  not  Joseph.  Dur- 
ing his  reign  Moses  was  born.  Their  gloomy 
religion  banished  gayety  from  their  midst ;  dance, 
songs,  and  sports  were  disliked.  Even  now, 
dancing-girls  are  not  allowed  in  Cairo,  but  they 
are  found  in  Upper  Egypt,  and  their  character- 
istic politeness,  temperance,  devotion  and  super- 
stition can  be  observed  to  this  day.  The  culti- 
vation of  mathematics,-  geometry  and  astronomy 
were  necessary  to  the  Egyptians,  on  account  of 
the  inundation  of  the  Nile,  which,  as  antiquity 
testifies,  for  over  3,000  years  has  been  regular  in 
regard  to  season  and  duration  ;  it  rises  in  June, 
and  recedes  in  October.\ 

Worship,  acts  of  religion,  and  funerals  were 
the  only  things  which  the  Egyptians  celebrated 
with  great  parade  and  solemnity.  We  see  that 
all  their  wealth  and  skill  were  bestowed  with 
great  prodigality  upon  temples  and  tombs  ;  be- 
sides these  we  are  not  aware  of  any  other  great 
monuments  of  architecture.  It  seems  that  the 
first  thought  of  the  Egyptian  kings  and  po- 
tentates was  to  build  their  tombs.  The  first 
year  of  the  accession  of  a  king  to  his  throne  was 
the  commencement  of  the  construction  of  u  sepul- 
chre. This  was  the  case  in  the  erection  of  the 
Pyramids,  in  which  each  successive  layer  of  stone 
marks  every  successive  year  of  the  reign  of  the 
monarch  who  undertook  the  construction  of  such 
an  edifice.  In  the  tombs  at  Thebes  the  longer  or 
shorter  reign  of  a  king  may  be  traced  by  the  ex- 
tent of  the  chambers,  or  by  the  completeness  of 


102  CAIEO. 

their  finish.  In  some  instances  we  may  observe 
a  sudden  transition  at  once  from  a  neat,  brilliant 
and  perfect  finish  to  a  rough,  unhewn  rock.  At 
the  entrance  of  each  tomb  the  monarch  or  poten- 
tate is  observed  standing  and  making  sacrifices 
to  the  sun,  which,  with  the  head  of  a  hawk, 
wishes  him  many  a  day,  and  along,  happy  life,  to 
complete  his  laborious  work.  Egypt  has  always 
been  divided  into  Lower,  Middle,  and  Said,  or 
Upper  Egypt.x 

Near  Memphis  are  the  Pyramids  of  Sakkara  or 
Sahharah.  They,  better  than  the  great  pyramids, 
show  the  interior  construction  in  the  manner  of 
stages.  The  object  of  the  founder  was  to  conceal 
the  place  where  the  body  was  to  be  laid,  in  order 
to  prevent  its  disturbance.  The  pyramids  not 
only  were  closed  outside  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  entrance  could  not  be  found  ;  but  even  the 
passage  to  the  interior  was  constructed  so  as  to 
be  difficult  of  access,  winding  up  and  down,  turn- 
ing to  the  right  and  to  the  left ;  then  up  and 
down  again.  Even  after  the  passage  led  to  a 
chamber,  it  was  only  a  blind  to  mislead  intruders 
with  the  idea  that  they  had  reached  the  real 
tomb.  There  are  instances  in  which  a  body  was 
found  and  was  taken  for  that  of  the  king,  as  in 
the  pyramid  opened  by  Colonel  Howard  Vyse.  in 
1837.  Near  a  chamber  a  body  was  found,  and 
sent  to  England  ;  yet  the  body  of  the  king  (My- 
cerinus)  was  found  in  its  sarcophagus,  intact,  in 
another  chamber.  The  other  body  had  been  de- 
posited, in  fact,  to  preserve  the  real  body  of  the 


INTERIOR    OF   THE   PYRAMIDS.  103 

s 

king  from  injury.  Herodotus  relates  that  the 
priests  at  Memphis  said  to  him  that  Cambyses,  in 
her  furious  mood,  dragged  from  the  tomb  the 
body  of  Amasis,  and  insulted  and  maltreated  it  ; 
but  the  priests  assured  Herodotus  that  the  body 
so  outraged  was  not  that  of  Amasis,  but  one  which 
he  had  buried  at  the  immediate  entrance  of  the 
tomb,  having  been  warned  by  an  oracle  of  the 
violence  intended  to  his  body.  This  practice  had 
not  been  unusual  with  their  monarchs.\ 

We  have  a  striking  instance  of  this  custom  in 
the  tomb  of  Osiris  I.,  amongst  the  tombs  of  the 
kings  at  Thebes,  marked  No.  17.  After  descend- 
ing several  flights  of  steps,  or  inclined  planes, 
they  had  reached  a  chamber  which,  before  the 
discoveries  made  by  the  great  antiquarian  Bel- 
zoni,  was  thought  to  terminate  the  tomb.  From 
the  hollow  sound  of  a  part  of  the  wall,  which  was 
stuccoed  arid  painted  over  like  the  rest,  Belzoni 
suspected  that  there  must  be  some  other  chamber. 
The  wall  yielded  to  his  efforts,  and  discovered 
beyond  it  a  hall  with  four  piers  supporting  the 
roof.  A  further  passage  and  vestibule  led  into 
a  magnificent  hall,  twenty-seven  feet  square,  and 
surrounded  by  a  raised  es trade,  on  which  were 
six  great  piers.  The  whole,  piers  and  walls, 
were  covered  with  colored  sculptures  and  hiero- 
glyphics, as  fresh  and  brilliant  as  if  finished  yes- 
terda}\  Beyond  this  great  hall  an  alabaster  sar- 
cophagus, with  a  cenotaph  of  King  Osiris  I,  was 
found  in  a  niche,  nineteen  feet  square,  on  a  raised 
floor.  This,  however,  was  only  a  blind  ;  the  real 


104  CAIEO. 

tomb  was  still  further  concealed.  Belzorii  broke 
the  further  wall  of  this  recess,  and  found  that  it 
masked  a  shaft,  descending  for  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  into  the  rock;  but  he  was  not  able  to 
proceed  beyond  this,  on  account  of  the  friable  na- 
ture of  the  stone  which  fell  and  prevented  further 
access.  So,  after  more  than  three  thousand  years, 
Osiris  reposes  undisturbed  in  the  silence  of  his 
remote  chamber.\ 

Memphis,  founded  by  Menes,  the  first  King  of 
Egypt,  was  a  large,  rich  and  splendid  city, 
the  second  capital  of  Egypt,  and  in  the  time  of 
Strabo,  (A.D,  20,)  in  population  and  size  it  was 
next  to  Alexandria.  Of  its  noble  temples  of 
Yulcan  or  Phtha,  Osiris,  Serapis,  etc.,  and  of  its 
great  palaces,  nothing  now  remains  but  the  noble 
colossus  of  Remeses  the  Great,  now  prostrate  and 
half  buried  in  alluvial  soil.  It  was  45  feet  high, 
and  composed  of  a  single  block  of  red  granite. 
On  the  belt  is  his  name  and  surname.  It  was  a 
regular  custom  amongst  the  Egyptians  to  write 
the  names  on  statues  and  paintings,  in  order  to 
explain  what  they  represented.  This  is  observed 
on  all  the  paintings,  tombs,  and  other  monuments 
found  in  Egypt ;  a  custom  by  far  superior  to  the 
practice  of  our  age,  when  we  must  only  guess 
what  they  represent,  and  often  take  one  thing  for 
another.  This  is  all  that  remains  of  that  Mem- 
phis, for  centuries  the  wonder  of  the  world,  the 
favorite  residence  of  many  dynasties,  and  the 
supplanter  of  that  Thebes,  whose  ruins  are  ven- 
erated by  all  nations,  on  the  shores  of  the  Nile ! 


CROCODOPOLIS.  105 

«. 

Near  Lake  Maeris,  once  as  large  as  the  Lake 
of  Geneva,  but  now  comparatively  dry,  was  the 
ancient  Crocodopolis  or  Arsinoe,  whose  inhabit- 
ants worshipped  the  crocodile,  and  who  were 
often  involved  in  feuds  with  the  people  of  Hera- 
cleopolis,  at  Anasieh,  (whose  ruins  are  yet  to  be 
found  near  Beni  Souef^)  who  adored  the  invete- 
rate enemy  of  the  crocodile,  the  ichneumon.  The 
people  near  Assuan  eat  the  crocodile,  but  those 
about  here  abstain  from  this  profanation,  as  they 
call  it.  Here  and  upward  on  the  Nile  there  is  a 
bird  called  "  trochilus,"  which,  with  its  long 
beak,  kills  the  leeches  in  the  crocodile's  mouth, 
and  gives  him  notice  of  the  approach  of  the  ene- 
my. Both  shores  of  the  river  are  studded  with 
neat  villages,  yet  the  clay  with  which  they  are 
built  make  them  look,  at  a  distance,  like  stains  of 
mud  on  a  brilliantly  rich  verdure.\ 

The  country  between  Minich,  one  of  the  pret- 
tiest towns  on  the  Nile,  arid  Beni-Hassan,  is 
much  infested  by  robbers,  and  generally  the 
dragomans  protest  against  travelers  desirous 
of  making  excursions  in  this  part  of  the  Nile. 
The  grottoes  and  tombs  of  Beni-Hassan  are  very 
interesting.  It  is  erroneously  believed  that  these 
grottoes  were  excavated  by  the  Egyptians  before 
they  commenced  to  construct  with  stones  and  mar- 
ble ;  that  they  served  for  a  pattern,  by  which  to 
erect  buildings.  On  the  contrary,  these  excava- 
tions were  made  on  the  model  of  constructed 
buildings,  having  pointed  arches,  architraves,  and 
other  parts  necessary  to  buildings  ;  but  useless, 
ii.— 7 


106  CAIRO. 

nay,  disadvantageous,  for  excavations.  The  an- 
cient Egyptians  made  excavations  at  first  after 
the  pattern  of  buildings  ;  then,  discovering  that 
these  parts  were  useless  for  excavations,  dropped 
them.  This  is  manifest  from  the  fact,  that  late 
excavations,  such  as  these  tombs  at  Thebes,  are 
devoid  of  arches,  architraves,  and  abacuses.  The 
tombs  of  Beni-Hassan  are  considered  the  oldest 
monuments  of  Egypt,  previous  and  during  the 
time  of  Joseph  in  Egypt,  belonging  to  an  earlier 
date  than  that  of  Thebes.x 

The  great  north  grotto  of  Beni-Hassan  has  a 
portico  with  two  pillars  of  Doric  character.  A 
lofty  doorway  opens  into  the  tomb,  which  is  di- 
vided by  two  rows  of  columns.  The  roof  consists 
of  three  vaults,  parallel  to  each  other,  whose  bold 
construction  is  shaped  in  a  segmental  form.  The 
idols  were  kept  in  a  niche  at  the  end  of  the  mid- 
dle aisle.  The  sculptures  are  much  defaced  ;  but 
most  of  the  subjects  are  painted,  representing  the 
mariners  and  customs  of  the  old  Egyptian  race. 
The  colors  are  fresh  as  if  painted  recently,  and 
the  drawings  vigorous  and  life-like.  The  Egypt- 
ians appear  solemn  and  immovable  in  their  archi- 
tecture, yet  they  show  great  gayety  and  vivacity 
in  their  paintings.  On  the  walls  you  can  observe 
representations  of  hunting  scenes  ;  women  per- 
forming on  musical  instruments  ;  the  infliction  of 
the  bastinado  on  both  sexes,  etc.  Nearly  all 
trades  are  represented  on  the  paintings  in  the 
tombs  ;  linen  and  cotton  manufacturing,  brick- 
makers,  potters,  glass-blowers,  goldsmiths,  black- 


GROTTOES.  107 

V 

smiths,  horse-shoeing,  a  barber  shaving  a  cus- 
tomer, and  another  cutting  toe-nails  ;  women  per- 
forming various  feats  of  agility  ;  figures  of  ani- 
mals, fishes,  birds,  of  agricultural  implements, 
musical  instruments,  cooking  apparatus  ;  manner 
of  kneading  dough,  baking  bread,  hunting  scenes, 
boat-sailing,  furniture,  etc.  In  one  tomb  there  is 
a  painting  of  Joseph  presenting  his  brethren  to 
Pharaoh.  Some  entertain  doubts  about  this  rep- 
resentation, but  as  incredulous  travelers  are  gen- 
erally very  skeptical  about  any  subject  connect- 
ed with  the  Holy  Scriptures  and  the  Church, 
their  authority  is  not  to  be  followed  blindly./ 

Behind  the  village  of  E'Dayr,  not  far  from 
Aritinoe,  there  are  a  number  of  grottoes  of  great 
interest,  not  only  for  their  early  date,  but  also 
as  containing  the  tomb  of  a  person  of  high  char- 
acter in  the  reign  of  Osirtasen  II.  (1650  B.C.),  one 
of  the  Pharaohs,  who  bestowed  on  Joseph  great 
power  and  rank  in  Egypt.  In  an  excavation 
there  is  a  scene  indicating  clearly  the  method 
adopted  by  the  Egyptians  in  moving  heavy 
weights.  A  colossus,  about  30  feet  high,  rests 
on  a  kind  of  sledge,  to  which  there  is  attached  a 
rope  pulled  by  a  great  number  of  men,  some 
Egyptians  and  some  foreign  slaves.  On  the  legs 
of  the  colossus  stands  a  man  who  seems  to  be 
keeping  time  for  a  simultaneous  haul,  by  clap- 
ping his  hands  and  singing  a  measured  tune.  On 
the  pedestal  of  the  colossus  stands  another  man, 
pouring  out  oil  to  facilitate  the  movement.  \ 

It  is  a  well-founded  opinion,  that  Pharaoh's  ma- 


108  CAIRO. 

gicians,  who  performed  those  wonders  in  the  time 
of  Moses,  came  from  this  village,  now  called  An- 
tinoe.  At  that  time,  however,  it  had  another 
name  ;  or,  I  would  rather  say,  this  Antinoe,  built 
by  the  Emperor  Adrian,  in  honor  of  his  favorite, 
Antinous,  who  was  accidentally  drowned  here  in 
the  Nile,  has  succeeded  to  the  place  from  which 
these  magicians  came.  Five  miles  beyond  Man- 
faloot,  in  the  mountain  range  opposite,  is  the  cave 
where  are  deposited  the  crocodile  mummies,  fine- 
ly preserved,  piled  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling, 
with  an  occasional  human  mummy,  supposed  to 
have  been  the  feeder  of  these  ancient  gods.\ 

Siout  (El  Hamra),  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt, 
.  the  largest  and  the  best  built  city  in  Sa'id,  con- 
tains 25,000  inhabitants,  the  most  of  them  Copts. 
Some  of  its  bazars  are  not  inferior  to  those  of 
Cairo.  It  is  Ihe  starting  point  for  the  caravans 
that  proceed  into  the  interior  of  Africa.  Here 
are  extensive  ranges  of  tombs,  and  several  tem- 
ples. It  was  here  that  the  Emperor  Theodosius 
sent  his  eunuch,  Eutropius.  from  Constantinople, 
to  consult  John  of  Lycopolis,  a  holy  Egyptian 
hermit,  about  his  success  in  the  civil  war.  This 
holy  hermit,  when  40  years  of  age,  retired,  soli- 
tary and  alone,  to  the  top  of  a  rock,  difficult  of 
access,  near  Lycopolis,  and  walled  up  his  cell, 
except  a  little  window  to  receive  all  necessaries. 
He  never  left  his  cell  till  death.  He  admitted 
every  body,  except  women,  to  see  him,  on  Satur- 
days and  Sundays,  and  he  had  caused  a  kind  of 
hospital  to  be  built  near  his  cell,  for  the  recep- 


TEMPLE    OF   DENDERA.  109 

tion  of  those  who  came  from  a  distance.     He  had 
the  gift  of  prophecy  and  miracles./ 

Siout  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Lycopolis, 
or  the  City  of  the  Wolf.  Here  are  temples  and  cata- 
combs,in  which  the  prevalence  of  the  wolf-mummies 
indicates  that  it  was  the  burial-place  of  Lycopolis. 
In  these  temples  the  chief  idols  are  usually  sitting 
in  their  adyta.  Here  Anybis  is  the  chief  idol. 
In  Girgeh,  a  town  80  miles  distant,  there  is  a 
Latin  convent,  or  rather,  I  would  say,  a  residence. 
Near  here  is  the  ancient  Chemnis,  now  Achmim, 
where  Ne  storms  died  in  exile.  Thirty  miles 
higher  up  is  the  town  of  Kineh,  celebrated  for 
its  dancing  girls,  called  GliawazeeX 

Below,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  are 
the  ruins  of  the  famous  Temple  of  Dendera.  It 
is  a  huge  Ptolemaic  building,  but  its  portico  of 
24  lofty  columns  was  erected  by  the  Emperor 
Tiberius.  The  details  are  barbaric,  and  show 
the  antiquity  of  the  temple.  The  oldest  names 
on  it  are  those  of  Cleopatra  and  of  Caesarion's,  her 
son  by  Julius  Caesar.  The  nave  is  succeeded  by 
two  other  halls,  to  which  are  attached  lateral 
chambers,  and  a  staircase  leading  to  the  second 
story,  having  an  ad}rtum  passage  and  chambers. 
This  temple  was  dedicated  to  Athor,  the  Egypt- 
ian Aphrodite.  In  a  chamber  on  the  roof  of  the 
adytum  there  is  a  series  of  sculptures,  supposed 
to  represent  the  birth  of  Ekoou,  son  of  Athor, 
or  of  Harpocrates,  son  of  Isis.  Other  sculptures, 
referring,  perhaps,  to  the  death  of  Osiris,  the 
husband  of  Isis,  are  represented  by  gigantic 


110  CAIRO. 

hands,  feet,  and  a  head  ;  which  figures  are  found 
also  at  the  back  of  the  great  temple  and  in  the 
small  temple  of  Isis.  On  this  temple  there  is  a 
sculpture  representing  a  cow,  the  common  em- 
blem of  Tsis.  Near  to  it  is  a  small  temple,  with 
a  peristyle  of  typhon-crowned  pillars,  supposed 
to  be  the  place  of  accouchment  of  the  Goddess 
Athor.  The  sculptures  throughout  represent  the 
birth  of  Ekoou.  A  short  distance  above  Kinech 
is  Koft,  the  representative  of  the  ancient  Copt ; 
and  the  former  starting  point  of  an  extensive  car- 
avan traffic,  which  here  crossed  the  desert  to  the 
ancient  port  of  Berenice,  on  the  Red  Sea.  The 
vegetation  is  here  very  luxuriant,  and  the  exten- 
sive cornfields  beyond  calculation^ 

Thebes,  the  earliest  capital  of  the  world,  the 
famous  city  of  a  hundred  gates,  the  theme  and 
admiration  of  ancient  poets  and  historians,  and 
the  wonder  of  nations,  is  the  Diospolis  of  the 
Greeks,  and  the  No-Ammon  of  the  Hebrews. 
Thebce  of  the  Greeks  is  derived,  probably,  from 
the  Thbaki  (the  city),  which,  as  well  as  Diospolis 
and  No-Ammon,  are  mere  translations  of  the 
Egyptian  Tlibaki-antepi-Amoun  (City  of  the  Most 
High).  This  was  the  capital  of  the  Thebaid  and 
of  Egypt.  The  glory  of  Thebes  belongs  to  a 
period  prior  to  that  of  history ;  the  date  of  the 
destruction  of  this  venerable  city  is  older  than 
the  foundation  of  other  cities.  The  magnificence 
of  its  gigantic  temples,  the  grandeur  of  its  palaces 
and  obelisks,  the  colossal  statues  and  sphinxes, 
the  sculptures  and  paintings  of  various  kinds  re- 


KARNAK    AND    LUXOR.  Ill 

\ 

corded  only  in  the  dim  light  of  poetry  and  tradi- 
tion, might  be  regarded  as  fabulous,  were  they 
not  supported  by  the  mighty  testimony  of  the 
colossal  and  wonderful  monuments  still  extant, 
which  for  eight  miles  along  the  Nile,  from  both 
banks,  extend  to  the  sides  of  the  enclosed  moun- 
tains, describing  a  circuit  of  twenty-seven  miles. 
These  ruins,  hoary  and  time-worn,  have  the  power 
to  summon  the  learned  of  all  nations  to  the  shores 
of  the  Nile,  to  pay  a  tribute  of  respect  and  ven- 
eration to  the  great  fallen  capital  of  Egypt  !\ 

The  most  striking  objects  at  present,  are  the 
temples  of  Karnak  and  Luxor,  on  the  eastern 
bank  ;  and  the  Memnonium  and  Medinet-abu  on 
the  western  shore.  The  Karnak  is  a  collection  of 
palaces  and  temples  ;  its  centre  is  the  sanctuary 
of  Ammon,  a  small  granite  edifice  erected  by 
Osirtasen,  with  vestiges  of  earliest  temples  around 
it.  The  principal  building  or  palace  of  Karnak, 
on  the  site  where  the  ancient  Diospolis  stood,  is 
the  largest  of  any  temple  in  Egypt.  This  was, 
no  doubt,  the  temple  of  Ammon,  the  Jupiter  of 
the  Egyptians.  The  principal  hall  was  318  feet 
long  by  160  broad,  and  about  one  mile  and  a  half 
in  circumference.  The  temple  had  twelve  princi- 
pal entrances.  The  body  of  the  building,  which 
is  entered  by  a  large  court,  consists  of  a  prodigi- 
ous hall,  the  roof  of  which  is  supported  by  one 
hundred  and  thirty-four  columns  70  feet  high, 
some  twenty-six,  others  thirty-four  feet  in  circum- 
ference. Four  beautiful  obelisks  mark  the  en- 
trance to  the  shrine  which  is  forme^  of  three 


112  CAIRO. 

apartments  built  entirely  of  granite.  The  temple 
is  approached  through  an  avenue  of  colossal 
sphinxes,  which  is  over  one  mile  in  length,  con- 
necting the  remains  of  Karnak  with  those  of 
Luxor,  which  is  now  a  small  miserable  African 
village.\ 

The  palace  or  temple  of  Luxor  is  smaller  than 
that  of  Karnak,  but  superior  in  the  architectural 
style,  but  it  is  also  colossal  in  its  dimensions.  At 
present  it  is  in  ruins,  but  many  pillars  are  still 
standing.  The  whole  length  of  the  palace  or 
temple  was  800  feet  long  by  200  broad.  On  either 
side  of  the  doorway,  the  magnificent  principal 
entrance,  stood  two  obelisks,  the  finest  in  the 
world,  formed  of  rose  colored  granite,  rising,  after 
allowing  for  the  portion  buried  in  the  ground,  to 
the  height  of  100  feet.  One  of  these  was  convey- 
ed to  Paris  and  placed  in  the  Place  de  la  Ooncorde\ 
On  the  western  side  are  found  the  extensive  range 
of  the  tombs  of  Thebes,  and  those  of  the  kings 
and  priests.  They  are  very  interesting,  because 
their  fresh  and  brilliant  sculptures  and  paintings 
represent  the  religion  and  manners  of  the  Egypt- 
ians. You  there  see  processions,  funerals,  sacri- 
fices, wars  and  triumphs  ;  boating  on  the  Nile, 
with  views  of  the  cabin,  representing  the  richness 
of  its  furniture  ;  hunting-parties,  household  uten- 
sils, the  kitchen,  bake-house,  provisions,  fruits, 
flowers,  agriculture,  implements,  ovens,  harpers 
and  harps  like  the  old-fashioned  single  action  of 
the  present  day.  They  show  the  manner  in  which 
the  coffins  were  let  down  by  ropes  into  the  tomb  ; 


STATUE    OF   REMESE.  113 

a  representation  of  a  victory,  in  which  the  num- 
ber of  human  beings  amounts  to  1500,  between 
chariots  and  footmen.  The  tomb  of  Osymandyas, 
the  temple  of  Isis,  that  of  Medinet-Abu,  the  lab- 
rynth,  etc.  .  .  .  are  works  that  make  travelers  feel 
ashamed  of  the  pretended  advance  of  arts  and 
inventions  in  this  decaying  age.  Amongst  the 
ruins  of  the  grand  temple  called  Memnonium,  but 
more  properly  Remeseum,  from  its  founder,  are 
the  remains  of  a  Catholic  Church,  also  in  ruins. 
Among  the  tombs  one  can  see  the  traces  of  Chris- 
tian anachorites  and  hermits,  who  made  them  their 
abode  in  the  primitive  times,  and  to  this  day  many 
Arabs  live  in  the  tombs,  and  some  consider  them- 
selves even  happy  to  have  secured  an  ancient 
tomb  for  their  dwelling,  where  they  live  with  their 
families.x 

The  stupendous  colossal  statue  of  Remese  the 
Great,  called  Memnonium  on  account  of  his  sur- 
name Amunmai,  or  Mia-Mun,  from  whose  pa- 
tronymic, Se-Osirei  (son  of  Osirei)  seems  also  to 
have  been  derived  his  Greek  name,  was  broken 
by  the  Persian  Cambyses,  as  it  is  said,  who  also 
broke  that  of  the  vocal  Memncn,  and  the  upper 
part  now  lies  prostrate  on  the  sand.  This  im- 
mense statue  measures  63  feet  round  the  shoulders, 
and  13  feet  from  the  croAvn  of  the  head  to  the  top 
of  the  shoulders.  It  was  the  largest  statue  in  the 
world.  The  vocal  Memnon  is  the  other  colossal 
statue  in  the  ruins  of  the  Memnonium  (or  palace 
of  the  Remeseum).  This  statue  uttered  a  joyful 
sound  when  the  sun  rose  and  shone  upon  it ;  but 


114  CAIRO. 

when  the  sun  set  the  sound  was  mournful  ;  this 
sound  was  heard  till  the  fourth  century  after 
Christ.  In  the  lap  of  the  statue  is  a  hole  in  which 
is  a  stone,  which  when  struck  emits  a  faint  har- 
monious sound.  The  voice  of  the  vocal  Memnon 
has  departed.  Thousands  and  thousands  of  Greeks 
and  Romans  who  have  left  their  names  engraved 
on  it,  have  departed  also.  The  vocal  Memnon, 
after  many  a  century  of  existence — hoary,  black- 
ened, time-worn  and  defaced  by  vandalic  visitors, 
stands  yet,  like  a  solitary  land-mark  on  the 
ruins  of  Thebes  ;  half  hidden  by  the  sands  of  the 
desert  and  the  inundations  of  the  Nile,  pointing 
to  the  traveler  the  spot  where  the  greatest  city  of 
the  world  once  stood.  Though  the  voice  of  Mem- 
non has  departed,  it  still  teaches  the  wandering 
visitor  that  when  Greece  was  just  emerging  from 
the  shades  of  barbarism,  and  before  the  existence 
of  Rome  was  known,  Thebes,  the  most  magnificent 
city  of  the  world,  was  instructing  all  nations  in 
the  arts  and  sciences  of  Egypt  ;  the  Assyrians 
came  and  overthrew  the  throne  of  the  Pharaohs. 
The  barbarous  Persian  soldier  shouted  his  war- 
cry  in  the  streets  of  Thebes,  far  greater  than 
Babylon.  The  vandalic  Cambyses  destroyed  the 
temples  of  its  gods,  and  only  a  heap  of  ruins  were 
left  to  tell  of  the  departed  glories  of  Thebes ! 
These  solitary  but  majestic  ruins  testify  that  these 
colossal  remains  of  the  ancient  Egyptians  are  al- 
most exclusively  those  of  religious  buildings  ;  a 
thing  which  Greece  and  Pagan  Rome  can  not  say 
for  themselvesA 


BAND-STONE    QUARRIES.  115 

Esnc  is  the  ancient  Latopolis  of  the  Romans, 
the  principal  commercial  place  of  Upper  Egypt, 
and  the  head-quarters  of  the  Grhawazee  or  danc- 
ing girls.  Nothing  remains  of  this  great  Roman 
city  except  a  portico  of  the  temple.  From  this 
place  to  Assouan,  extends  the  range  of  mountains 
of  sand-stone  quarries,  from  which  the  ancient 
Egyptians  procured  a  great  part  of  the  materials 
for  almost  all  of  the  temples  of  Egypt.  At  the 
first  cataract  they  change  into  granite.  The 
columns  in  Rome,  Paris,  Constantinople  and  in 
Alexandria  came  from  these  quarries.  East  of 
Assouan  there  is  a  large  column,  hewn  out,  but 
never  removed  from  the  quarry,  like  the  mam- 
moth stone  at  Baalbec.  Assouan,  the  ancient 
Syene,  is  the  frontier  town  of  Egypt ;  it  lies  below 
the  first. cataract,  and  there  are  some  ruins.  Op- 
posite is  the  famous  island  of  Elephantine,  about 
one  mile  in  length,  where  is  the  temple  of  Chnubis, 
the  god  of  inundation,  a  granite  gate-way,  and  a 
badly-broken  statue  of  granite. \ 

From  the  first  cataract  to  the  frontier  of  Ethio- 
pia there  are  antiquarian  relics,  but  not  of  much 
importance.  The  most  considerable  are  those  of 
Aboo-Simbel,  very  nigh  the  middle  of  Nubia. 
They  are  the  magnificent  temples  of  Aboo-Simbel. 
There  are  also  some  in  Ethiopia,  and  a  few  more 
a  very  little  further  up  in  Abyssinia. \ 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SUEZ. 

RETURN    TO    CAIRO — SUEZ THE     RED     SEA — SPOT    WHERE     MOSES    AND     THE    IS- 
RAELITES   CROSSED    THE    RED    SEA DESERT    OF    ARABIA WILDERNESS  OF  SUR 

FOUNTAIN  OF   MOSES — MOUNT  SINAI — BEDOUINS — ARABS RETURN    TO    SUEZ 

AND    CAIRO — SAILING    FOR   THE    HOLY    LAND    ON    A    TURKISH    STEAMER REFU- 
SAL  TO    OBSERVE   THE   KORAN PORT    SA1D.\ 

\A  PERSON  having  leisure  can  spend  many 
months  in  examining  the  extensive  ranges  of 
tombs  and  remains  of  Egyptian  and  Roman  tem- 
ples that  nearly  line  both  shores  of  this  classic 
river A 

Many  tombs  have  never  been  opened,  and  their 
buried  and  secreted  contents  may  add  valuable 
information  to  history  and  science.  But  as  I 
had  no  pretensions  to  be  a  Nile  tourist,  I  re- 
turned to  Grand  Cairo  by  the  shortest  route.  I 
had  made  arrangements  at  the  Hotel  du  Nile  to 
pay  twelve  francs  a  day,  everything  included, 
except  wines,  candles,  and  soap  ;  but  during  my 
absence  they  were  to  keep  my  baggage  free,  and 
I  was  to  pay  only  for  those  days  in  which  I  had 
occupied  the  hotel. \ 

I  now  prepared  myself  to  cross  the  Desert  and 
go  to  Suez,  to  pass  the  Red  Sea  and  penetrate 
into  Arabia  to  see  the  Holy  Mountain,  the  Moun- 

(116) 


CROSSING    THE    DESERT.  117 

tain  of  God — the  terrible  Mount  Sinai !  I  started 
for  Suez  by  railroad.  It  takes  four  hours  to  cross 
the  Desert,  which  commences  at  Cairo.  In  this 
Desert.  I  saw  several  caravans  of  camels  led  by 
wild  Bedouins,  who,  like  the  children  of  Jacob  of 
old,  who  belonged  to  the  same  nation,  in  the  same 
manner  were  going  to  the  land  of  Egypt  to  fill 
their  empty  bags  ;  and  other  caravans,  returning 
from  Egypt  with  provisions,  were  going  back  to 
their  families.  I  saw,  also,  the  mountains  of  sand 
formed  suddenly  by  the  stormy  winds  of  the 
Desert,  which  carry  immense  and  heavy  clouds 
of  sand  for  miles  and  miles  ;  the  accumulations  of 
this  sand  look  very  much  like  snow-drifts,  but  on 
a  larger  scale.  This  sand  of  the  Desert  is  of  a 
peculiar  nature,  fine,  rolling,  and  suffocating. 
This  is  a  moving  sand,  which,  when  blown  by  the 
wind,  has  sometimes  produced  the  most  terrible 
effects,  and  whole  caravans  have  been  found 
buried  under  it:  When  this  sand  is  blown  up  by 
the  wind,  it  leaves  a  bed  of  gravel  and  stones  of 
the  Desert,  which  were  too  heavy  to  be  carried 
off  by  the  wind.  I  was  surprised  to  see  clouds  of 
musquitoes  on  the  sand,  and  they  were  very 
smart,  thick,  and  troublesome.  I  picked  up  seve- 
ral fine  stones  of  the  Desert,  which,  when  I  broke, 
represented  some  fine  figures  of  animals,  trees, 
and  men.i 

I  reflected  that  when  Joseph  was  sold  by  his 
brethren  to  the  Ismaelites,  he  traveled  over  this 
very  road.  Jacob  and  his  children  had  crossed 
this  Desert  and  dwelt  for  some  time  in  the  land 


118  SUEZ. 

of  Gessen  ;  they  had  spent  many  weary  days  on 
these  burning  sands,  traveling  in  a  manner  far 
different  from  that  in  which  I  was  journeying. 
This  road  has  been  traveled  for  more  than  four 
thousand  years  ;  and  through  it  the  oppressed 
children  of  Israel,  carrying  the  bones  of  Joseph 
under  the  guidance  of  Moses,  sheltered  from  the 
burning  heat  of  the  sun  by  a  cloud,  and  led  by  a 
column  of  lire  during  the  darkness  of  night, 
flew  from  the  wrath  of  the  obdurate  Pharaoh. 
How  many  romantic  and  sacred  recollections 
teemed  in  my  mind  while  crossing  this  classic 
Desert!) 

At  Suez  I  saw  a  part  of  the  British  army  going 
to  Abyssinia ;  many  soldiers  were  bathing  in  the 
Ked  Sea,  although  it  was  the  middle  of  winter. 
I  went  to  the  Victoria  Hotel,  which  is  a  good 
stopping  place,  very  reasonable,  paying  12  francs 
a  day,  including  everything,  even  wine.  Suez 
contains  6,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  at  the 
head  of  the  gulf  of  the  same  name.  The  Red  Sea 
lies  at  the  south,  and  separates  into  two  gulfs, 
that  of  Suez,  and  that  of  Akaba  on  the  east.\ 

This  city  has  always  been  the  starting-point  of 
the  Mussulman  pilgrims  embarking  or  sailing 
yearly  for  Mecca.  Lately  it  has  become  a  great 
emporium  of  travel  on  account  of  the  overland 
mail  between  Europe  and  India.\ 

I  went  to  see  the  works  of  the  French,  who  are 
cutting  the  Isthmus  for  a  canal  between  the  Medi- 
terranean and  the  Red  Sea.  I  visited  the  church 
and  convent  of  the  Franciscans,  who  are  nearly 


CROSSING    THE   RED    SEA.  119 

all  Italians.  The  church  is  small,  and  only  two 
years  old.  Near  to  it  I  saw  the  Arabian  house 
where  the  Franciscan  Friars  said  Mass  before  the 
erection  of  this  chapel.  In  the  convent,  which  is 
only  a  residence,  there  are  only  three  Fathers 
and  one  lay  Brother.  The  Fathers  told  me  that 
on  Sunday  there  is  a  Catholic  congregation  of 
13,000.  They  are  French,  Italians,  and  Span- 
iards, working  along  on  the  canal.  Next  day  I 
took  a  boat  to  go  down  to  the  Red  Sea,  and  then 
land  on  the  Arabian  side  in  order  to  visit  the 
fountain  of  Moses.  In  the  boat  I  had  a  donkey 
and  an  Arabian  to  lead  me  through  the  desert  to 
that  place.  I  had  made  a  bargain  for  the  whole, 
including  boat  to  and  from,  for  ten  francs,  which 
was  considered  a  good  price.  This  year,  for  the 
first  time,  Suez  has  been  visited  by  a  shower  of 
rain  and  a  thunder  storm,  which  was  a  great  phe- 
nomenon in  that  part  of  Arabia.  The  shores  of 
the  Red  Sea  are  the  image  of  desolation,  having 
hardly  a  parallel  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  The 
western  side  is  lined  by  a  black,  barren  range  of 
desolate  and  rugged  mountains  ;  the  eastern  pre- 
sents the  everlasting  sands  of  the  dry  deserts  of 
Arabia.  Neither  verdure  nor  any  green  spot  can 
be  seen  upon  which  the  eye  could  rest  with  plea- 
sure, after  having  been  wearied  by  barrenness 
and  desolation.  I  crossed  the  Red  Sea  and  land- 
ed on  the  very  spot  where  the  oppressed  people 
of  God,  under  the  guidance  of  Moses  and  Aaron, 
had  stopped,  after  having  walked  over  the  dry 
bed  of  the  Red  Sea,  to  behold  the  divided  waters 


120  SUEZ. 

closing  again  and  swallowing  up  their  pursuers. 
These  waters  obeyed  the  command  of  Moses,  re- 
treating on  each  side  and  forming  a  kind  of  wall, 
leaving  a  wide,  dry  passage  for  "  the  Children  of 
Israel."  I  knelt  on  that  sacred  spot  where 
Moses,  stretching  out  his  rod  upon  the  waters, 
commanded  them  to  rush  together,  overwhelming 
Pharaoh  and  his  chariots  and  the  whole  army  of 
Egypt.  I  know  that  there  is  a  dispute  as  to  the 
precise  point  where  Moses  crossed  the  Red  Sea. 
Yet  this  point  is  admitted  by  all  travelers  to 
correspond  precisely  with  the  description  of  the 
Bible,  and  to  present  all  the  circumstances  con- 
nected with  it.\ 

Looking  up  to  the  head  of  the  gulf,  where  Suez 
(or  Kolsum)  stands,  there  is  a  high  range  of 
rugged  mountains  which  it  would  be  necessary  to 
cross,  an  undertaking  physically  impossible  for 
six  hundred  thousand  people,  men,  women,  and 
children,  and  their  baggage,  pursued  by  a  hostile 
army.  At  Suez,  Moses  could  have  fled  into  the  Syr- 
ian desert  round  the  head  of  the  gulf,  and  so  could 
have  avoided  being  hemmed  in  as  he  was.  But 
here,  opposite  to  the  spot  where  I  stood,  there  is 
an  opening  between  the  mountains,  forming  a  clear 
passage  leading  from  the  Desert  to  the  shore  of  the 
sea.  We  know  that  Ramesch  was  in  that  part  of 
Egypt  which  Joseph  had  procured  from  Pharaoh 
for  Jacob,  his  father,  and  for  his  brethren  to  dwell 
in,  with  their  families  and  cattle.  That  city, 
probably  built  by  the  Israelites,  was  in  the  land 
of  G-essen  (land  with  water),  and  the  earliest  his- 


THE   RED   SEA.  121 

torians  mention  that  from  the  Ramesch  of  Pha- 
raoh to  this  spot,  there  was  a  caravan  route. 
Moses,  certainly,  with  his  multitude,  took  this  route. 
Here,  according  to  the  description  of  the  Bible,  he 
found  himself  hemmed  in  between  these  two  moun- 
tains, with  the  sea  before  him  and  the  army  of  Pha- 
raoh in  the  rear ;  here  he  stretched  out  his  hand 
and  divided  the  waters  ;  and  the  spot  where  I  stood 
was  that  above  where  the  children  of  Israel  had 
knelt  on  the  sand  to  thank  Almighty  God  for  His 
miraculous  interposition.  Here  Moses  composed 
that  famous  canticle,  the  oldest  piece  of  poetry  in 
existence,  and  the  children  of  Israel  sang  it  with 
most  grateful  hearts./ 

The  sea  here  is  only  twenty  miles  across,  a 
distance  which  could  have  been  passed  in  the 
space  of  one  night  by  that  immense  multitude  of 
people.  The  Arabs  and  Bedouins,  by  tradition, 
point  out  this  spot  as  the  place  where  the  Israel- 
ites crossed  the  sea,  and  on  diving  for  coral,  or 
mother-of-pearl,  they  bring  up  occasionally  frag- 
ments of  swords,  helmets,  chariot-wheels,  etc., 
which  were  swallowed  up  with  the  army  of  Egypt. 
The  Arabs  say  that  when  the  sea  is  raging  they 
can  see  the  ghosts  of  the  drowned  Egyptians 
walking  upon  the  waters.  They  have  also  other 
superstitious  stories  about  the  drowned  Egyp- 
tians, and  some  of  them  will  even  swear  to  hav- 
ing seen  the  ghost  of  Pharaoh  flying  in  his  chariot 
over  the  sea  on  some  calm  and  moonlight  night. 
I  picked  up  some  shells,  not  only  to  remind  me  of 
the  Red  Sea,  but  as  a  distinctive  mark  of  my 
IL— 8 


122  SUEZ. 

pilgrimage.  I  took  the  same  route  in  the  desert 
towards  Mount  Sinai  that  had  been  trodden  by 
the  Israelites,  and  the  only  one  that  leads  to  the 
mountains  of  Horeb  and  Sinai.  No  other  road 
from  the  Red  Sea  to  Mount  Sinai,  has  existed 
since  the  days  of  Moses  and  the  face  of  nature, 
and  the  natural  landmarks  have  remained  totally 
unchanged  to  this  day.  It  is  dreary  and  desolate  ; 
nothing  relieves  the  eye,  but  sand,  sand,  and  always 
sand.  The  dark,  barren  and  rugged  range  of  the 
Arabian  mountains  rises  in  front  with  majesty,  and 
the  appearance  of  the  sacred  Horeb  and  Sinai  re- 
news the  energy  of  the  weary  pilgrim,  whose  eyes 
have  rested  only  on  an  ocean  of  sand  ;  no  trees,  no 
shrubs,  not  a  single  blade  of  grass  breaks  the 
monotony  of  this  frightful  desolation.\ 

I  met  two  small  caravans  of  Bedouins,  the  chil- 
dren of  the  desert,  coming  from  Mount  Sinai  with 
their  empty  sacks.  I  frequently  passed  the  bleach- 
ed bones  of  a  dromedary,  lying  on  the  sand,  or 
some  huge  vulture  tearing  with  his  beak  the  flesh 
of  some  camel  recently  dead.  After  riding  for 
some  miles,  I  reached  a  grove  of  palm-trees  shad- 
ing some  wells,  which  gave  me  some  idea  of  an 
oasis  \ 

This  water  comes  from  the  fountain  of  Moses, 
called  ayoun  mouisa,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
eastward  of  this  grove.  All  that  grows  in  this 
garden  or  grove,  is  due  to  this  fountain  whose 
water  is  entirely  absorbed  by  its  vegetation, 
beyond  which  there  is  nothing  but  sand.  I  drove 
to  the  fountain.  I  know  that  there  is  a  great  dis- 


MOUNT   SINAI.  123 

pute  about  the  real  fo  an  tain  of  Moses  ;  but  it  is 
not  my  intention  to  decide  this  question.  All  the 
inhabitants  of  Cairo  and  Suez  and  the  Bedouins 
around  it,  believe  this  to  be  the  fountain  which 
Moses  formed  by  striking  the  rock.  It  is  an  old 
decaying  rock,  and  stands  solitary  and  alone  in 
the  desert.  It  is  over  20  feet  high,  rising  in  the 
shape  of  a  cone  ;  having  a  circumference  of  about 
40  feet  on  the  top,  and  hollow  inside.  The  water 
springing  from  the  top,  runs  down  in  the  form  of 
a  stream  at  the  foot  of  the  rock,  forming  a  little 
pond  sheltered  by  a  few  palm-trees,  where  camels 
crossing  the  desert  stop  to  drink.  The  water  is 
not  very  good.  Who  can  discourse  upon  the 
many  recollections  of  this  memorable  spot  ?  Here 
I  imagined  1  saw  Moses  and  Aaron,  Against  whom 
the  multitude  murmured !  Here  on  this  desert 
they  were  fed  with  "manna!  "  and  refreshed  with 
the  miraculous  water  issuing  from  this  rock, 
which  was  Christ.\ 

But  the  presence  of  Sinai,  although  at  a  dis- 
tance, caused  in  me  a  transport  that  penetrated 
my  very  bones!  There  was  that  holy  peak 
where  Moses  stood  and  talked  with  the  Almighty  ; 
that  sacred  ground  where  that  great  interview 
took  place,  between  man  and  his  Maker !  That 
mountain  which  roared  and  quaked  fearfully,  feel- 
ing in  a  special  manner,  the  presence  of  its 
Creator  ;  when  surrounded  by  thick  clouds  of 
smoke  and  fire,  amidst  thunders  and  lightnings, 
the  Almighty  gave  to  His  chosen  people  the 
precious  tables  containing  the  Ten  Commandments, 


124  SUEZ. 

teaching  man  his  duty  towards  God,  his  neighbor 
and  himself.  I  knelt  and  thanked  the  Almighty 
for  having  granted  to  me  this  special  favor  to  see 
that  spot  where  He  appeared  to  man  under  a 
veil,  hoping  to  see  Him  face  to  face  in  His  eternal 
mansion.  I  recited  a  Pater  and  Ave  to  gain  the 
Plenary  Indulgence  attached  to  Mount  Sinai ;  and 
also  the  Partial  Indulgence  on  the  place  where 
the  Lord  appeared  to  Moses  in  the  bush,  on  the 
rock  struck  by  the  rod  of  Moses,  and  on  Mount 
Horeb,  which  was  also  in  sight.\ 

From  the  top  of  the  rock  I  contemplated  the 
extensive  desert  of  Sur.  Excepting  Mount  Sinai 
and  the  dark  chain  of  Mount  Horeb,  extending 
to  the  place  where  Joshua  defeated  the  Amale- 
kites  by  the  prayers  of  Moses,  whose  hands,  ex- 
tended towards  heaven,  were  supported  by 
Aaron  and  Hur,  I  could  see  nothing  around  me 
on  which  to  rest  my  eyes  but  a  dead  level  desert. 
This  was  the  only  rock  in  the  desert,  standing 
solitary  and  alone,  whose  waters,  flowing  from  its 
top,  were  nourishing  a  little  palm  grove  and  a 
garden,  the  only  vegetation  on  this  extensive 
Arabian  desert.x 

I  drank  again  of  that  water,  with  which  I  filled 
a  bottle,  and  took  with  me  a  small  .piece  of  the 
rock.  In  descending,  I  met  a  Bedouin  from 
Mount  Sinai,  who  was  watering  his  camels  ;  he  had 
a  wild  and  savage  look.  I  held  no  conversation 
with  him.  The  Bedouins  of  Mount  Sinai  are  con- 
sidered to  be  the  worst  class  of  that  nation,  those 
beyond  the  Jordan  excepted.\ 


BEDOUINS  —  ARABS.  1 25 

The  Bedouins,  or  inhabitants  of  the  desert,  are 
a  numerous  Mohammedan  race,  dwelling  in  the 
deserts  of  Arabia,  Egypt,  and  Northern  Africa  ; 
and  are  believed  to  belong  to  the  same  race  of 
the  Arabs.  Their  dwellings  are  tents,  hut?, 
caverns  and  ruins,  always  at  a  distance  from 
cities.  If  they  live  in  families,  they  are  under  a 
Sheik  ;  if  in  tribes,  under  Emirs.  With  their 
herds  and  little  property,  they  wander  in  quest 
of  pasture  and  fresh  water.  Their  chief  employ- 
ments are  hunting  and  plunder.  The  peaceful 
tribes  trade  with  the  neighboring  nations,  but 
other  hordes  are  open  robbers,  and  it  is  danger- 
ous to  travel  through  their  country  without  a 
guard  or  a  passport,  which  the  different  chiefs 
sell.  They  plunder,  and  murder  travelers,  even 
when  they  offer  no  resistance,  yet  they  hold 
sacred  the  right  of  hospitality,  in  such  a  manner, 
that  the  most  defenceless  enemy  is  sure  of  their 
protection  if  they  have  once  allowed  him  shelter. 
The  Bedouin  considers  every  one  his  enemy  who 
is  not  his  brother,  kinsman  or  ally.  They  are 
poor,  ignora'nt,  wild  and  rude,  but  remarkably 
temperate  and  proud  of  their  liberty.  They  hold 
property  in  common,  and  several  tribes  must 
divide  in  common  what  they  earn.  Their  personal 
property  is  one  or  two  camels  or  horses,  some 
cattle,  and  a  few  utensils.  They  wear  long  gowns 
and  a  rope  around  the  crown  of  their  head. ; 

The  Arabs  are  well  formed,  tall,  active  and 
haughty  in  their  demeanor ;  the  women  are 
rather  taller  than  the  men.  Thev  have  an  oval 


126  SUEZ. 

head,  the  brow  high  and  arched,  acquiline  nose; 
large  eyes  and  an  uncommonly  gentle  look.  The 
women  are  beautiful  in  figure,  and  their  carriage 
is  dignified.  Like  the  Bedouins,  the  Arabs 
generally  wear  a  tunic  fastened  around  the  waist 
by  a  girdle.  Sometimes  they  put  on  a  white 
woolen  covering  which  serves  for  a  toga,  a  mantle, 
or  a  veil,  like  the  Bedouins,  but  they  wrap  it 
round  them,  or  suspend  it,  or  throw  it  over  their 
heads,  and  wear  no  rope.  They  go  barefoot, 
armed  with  a  dagger,  a  pike,  or  a  long  firelock, 
just  like  the  Bedouins,  but  the  tribes  travel  in 
caravans.  It  is  curious  to  see  a  file  of  camels. 
The  first  camel  is  fastened  by  a  cord  to  the  neck 
of  an  ass,  which  is  the  guide  of  the  troop,  and 
being  the  leader,  is  exempt  from  all  burden, 
besides  enjoying  several  other  privileges.  The}^ 
have  many  of  the  qualities  of  our  Indians  of 
North  America,  and  I  could  understand  several 
words  which  have  the  same  meaning  as  amongst 
our  American  Indians.  Yet  there  are  character- 
istic distinctions  between  the  Arabs  and  the 
Aborigines  of  the  New  World.  Amidst  the  rude- 
ness of  the  former,  you  still  perceive  a  certain 
degree  of  delicacy  in  their  manners  ;  among  the 
Aborigines  of  America,  you  see  a  savage  counte- 
nance arid  a  wild  expression.  The  Arab  shows 
that  he  was  a  civilized  man,  who  has  returned  to 
the  savage  state  ;  the  American  proclaims  that 
he  is  a  savage  who  has  not  yet  arrived  at  a  state 
of  civilization.\ 

I  did  not  intend  to  go  further  ;  being  alone  and 


CONVENT    OF   MOUNT   SINAI.  127 

without  a  well  defended  caravan,  it  would  have 
been  too  imprudent  for  me  to  hazard  my  life 
amongst  the  wild  hordes  of  the  Bedouin  Arabs  of 
Sinai,  who  are  the  worst  of  all  their  tribes,  and 
live  altogether  by  plunder.  The  Convent  of 
Mount  Sinai  itself,  is  constructed  in  the  form  of 
a  massive  fortress,  surrounded  by  high  stone 
walls  with  turrets  at  the  corners,  and  mounted 
with  cannon,  and  it  is  entered  only  by  a  subter- 
ranean passage  under  the  garden,  or  by  a  small 
iron  door  opened  in  one  of  the  walls  about  thirty 
feet  from  the  ground,  and  visitors  are  hoisted  by 
a  rope  attached  to  a  windlass.  The  Monks  very 
often  are  kept  for  months  as  it  were  imprisoned 
in  this  Convent  by  the  wild  Bedouin  Arabs,  who 
surround  them.  The  Monks  distribute  large 
quantities  of  alms,  and  feed  a  number  of  them 
(the  Arabs)  every  day,  in  order  to  cultivate 
friendly  feelings  with  them,  and  in  this  manner 
they  live  in  peace.  Another  reason  for  my  ab- 
staining from  going  thither,  was  that  the  Convent 
was  occupied  by  Schismatic  Greek  Monks,  who 
on  learning -who  I  was,  might  not  receive  me,  as 
I  was  warned  by  the  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem  and 
Alexandria,  who  had  not  visited  Mount  Sinai  on 
this  account.  The  Convent  was  built  in  the 
fourth  century  by  the  pious  St.  Helen,  and  was 
always  occupied  by  the  Catholic  Monks  or 
Hermits  to  afford  hospitality  to  the  pilgrims, 
whose  zeal  impelled  them  to  brave  the  perils  of 
the  road.  The  Convent  is  situated  in  the  heart 
of  a  vast  and  gloomy  desert,  and  although  it 


128  SUEZ. 

possesses  a  fine  large  garden  with  nearly  every 
kind  of  fruit  trees,  grape  vines,  and  vegetables, 
yet  the  mountain  is  stony  and  rugged,  and  except- 
ing a  few  straggling  thorn-bushes,  there  is  no 
vegetation.  The  rocks  are  old  and  decaying, 
rent  and  tumbling  to  pieces  ;  it  is  the  region  of 
desolation.  Besides  the  peak  of  Mount  Sinai 
there  is  a  higher  one  called  Mount  St.  Catharine, 
upon  which  the  body  of  this  Saint  was  transpor- 
ted by  the  Angels  from  Alexandria.  Close  to  it 
is  the  venerable  Holy  Mount  HorebA 

I  returned  to  Suez,  and  after  seeing  the  city 
and  inspecting  again  the  French  works  in  open- 
ing the  canal,!  went  to  see  the  remains  of  the 
sluices  of  the  ancient  Canal  of  Arsinoe,  which  con- 
nected the  Nile  with  the  Red  Sea. 

I  took  the  cars  for  Cairo.  In  the  middle  of 
the  desert  the  engine  gave  way  and  we  were 
obliged  to  stop  a  considerable  time  ;  finally,  we 
reached  the  city  very  late  in  the  night.\ 

In  Cairo,  I  received  a  letter  from  my  drago- 
man in  Alexandria,  informing  me  that  a  Turkish 
steamer  was  to  start  for  Palestine.  I  went  imme- 
diately to  Alexandria  and  stopped  at  my  former 
hotel,  Hotel  d'Angleterre.  Here  my  friends  tried 
to  dissuade  me  from  going  in  a  Turkish  steamer, 
but  as  there  were  no  others  ready  to  sail, 
I  purchased  a  first  class  ticket  for  eighty-five 
francs,  ten  francs  more  than  by  any  other  line. 
In  the  afternoon  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  to 
the  landing.  Before  arriving  at  the  landing-place 
the  Arabs  besieged  the  carriage  in  order  to  take 


TURKISH   STEAMER.  129 

the  baggage.  Some  put  their  hands  on  some 
part  of  it  in  order  to  acquire  the  right  to  take  it, 
others  even  tried  to  step  on  the  carriage.  I  and 
the  dragoman  ordered  every  one  off,  and,  taking 
hold  of  my  cane,  I  threatened  to  belabor  any 
one  of  them  who  did  not  clear  out  at  once.  We 
succeeded  for  a  moment ;  the  carriage  stopped 
near  the  custom-house  and  while  the  dragoman 
was  bargaining  for  a  boat,  a  swarm  of  Arabs  had 
surrounded  me  and  my  baggage,  pulling  it  about 
for  the  privilege  of  taking  it  into  the  custom- 
house. I  brandished  my  cane  and  threatened  to 
strike  them,  reproaching  them,  in  a  loud  voice,  in 
English,  French  and  Italian.  Whether  they 
understood  me  or  not  I  do  not  know.  However, 
I  succeeded  in  keeping  my  baggage  till  the  drago- 
man arrived,  who  thinking  that  I  was  about  to 
belabor  them  told  me  not  to  strike.  No  pass- 
port was  required,  but  on  leaving  Alexandria  I 
g&ve  two  francs  to  have  my  baggage  passed  with- 
out being  inspected.  I  agreed  to  pay  five  francs 
to  an  Arab  to  put  us  on  board,  but  when  we  were 
in  the  boat  the  boatman  wanted  more  than  the 
price  agreed  upon,  refusing  to  bring  us  to  the 
steamer.  I  told  him  to  put  us  on  shore  again, 
and  we  would  take  another  boat,  but  at  this 
moment  the  appearance  of  an  Egyptian  officer 
made  everything  right,  and  we  went  on  board 
the  steamer,  where  I  paid  the  boatman,  who  was 
a  very  shrewd  Arab.  The  dragoman  recom- 
mended me  to  the  officers  of  the  steamer,  declar- 
ing that  if  I  should  not  be  treated  well,  he  would 


130  SUEZ. 

dissuade  any  traveler  from  taking  the  Azizicli 
line.  The  steward  and  servants  were  Italians. 
About  5  P.  M.  we  sailed  for  Port  Said,  one  of  the 
mouths  of  the  Nile,  and  the  harbor  where  the 
canal  from  the  Mediterranean  Sea  connects  with 
Suez.x 

The  sea  was  very  rough  and  I  retired  to  my 
stateroom.  In  the  evening  I  was  requested  to 
say  what  I  would  like  to  have  for  supper,  but  I 
could  eat  nothing.  I  asked  for  some  wine  and 
toast  and  some  pears.  The  waiter  shook  his  head 
and  told  me  that  wine  was  not  allowed  because  its 
use  was  forbidden  by  Mohammed  in  the  Koran. 
I  said  that  I  had  nothing  to  do  with  Mohammed, 
that  I  was  a  Christian,  and  that  the  Koran  did 
not  concern  me.  I  added,  that  being  a  first  class 
passenger  I  was  entitled  to  have  wine,  because 
every  line  of  steamers  on  the  Mediterranean  gave 
it.  The  waiter  shook  his  head  again,  and  went  to 
consult  the  steward  and  captain.  I  commenced 
to  realize  the  risk  of  taking  a  Turkish  steamer. 
Then  I  reflected  that  the  Turks,  being  a  set  of 
bigoted  fanatics  and  very  superstitious,  if  a  storm 
should  occur,  might  call  me  to  account  for  it ;  so 
I  perceived  that  it  had  been  imprudent  in  me, 
being  alone,  to  embark  in  a  Mussulman  boat. 
Besides  this;  in  a  storm  they  trust  to  fate,  with- 
out using  the  proper  means  for  saving  the  vessel. 
I  reflected  also,  that  they  being  very  ignorant  of 
navigation  could  not  so  easily  save  the  steamer 
while  in  distress.  The  waiter  returned  with  a 
bottle  of  good  wine  saying,  that  the  captain  had 


PORT   SAID.  131 

remarked  that  I  being  a  European,  I  could  make 
use  of  the  privilege  of  using  wine  ;  that  is  to  say, 
that  if  I  had  been  a  Turk  or  a  subject  of  the 
Sultan,  I  would  be  required  or  obliged  to  respect 
the  Koran,  to  observe  the  Mohammedan  rule  of 
using  no  wine,  no  matter  whether  I  was  a  Chris- 
tian or  not.  I  slept  well  through  the  night,  and 
in  the  morning  I  took  breakfast  in  my  stateroom, 
and  went  on  deck  where  I  found  the  captain, 
pilot  "and  other  officers  having  a  large  map  spread 
out  before  them  consulting  about  the  location  of 
Port  Said,  which  was  already  in  sight.  The 
Turkish  water-closets  are  abominable  to  a  Euro- 
pean, and  I  could  never  learn  how  to  make  use 
of  them./ 

Near  Port  Said  we  took  a  pilot.  The  entrance 
is  not  difficult,  but  the  harbor  being  not  yet 
finished,  in  many  places  the  water  is  not  deep 
enough.  At  present  Port  Said  is  only  the  skele- 
ton of  a  city,  and  is  nothing  else  but  sand  ;  yet 
when  the  Suez  canal  will  be  opened,  it  is  expected 
not  only  to  rival  Alexandria,  but  to  supersede  it. 
Port  Said  at  present  cannot  number  more  than 
two  or  three  thousand  inhabitants,  besides  many 
thousands  of  Frenchmen,  Italians  and  Spaniards, 
along  the  strait,  working  on  the  canal,  The 
French  have  already  finished  a  small  canal  to  the 
Nile,  in  order  to  convey  fresh  water,  and  on  this 
canal  a  small  daily  steamer  runs  to  Suez.  Here 
there  are  no  rocks,  and  the  French  have  invented 
a  mode  of  making  artificial  stones  by  machinery. 
They  are  made  of  sand,  cement  and  other  compo- 


132  SUEZ. 

sitions.  When  they  come  fresh  out  of  the  moulds, 
they  are  cast  into  the  sea  where  they  become  as 
hard  as  rock.  Some  of  these  artificial  stones 
measure  10  feet  by  6.\ 

Society  in  Port  Said  is  very  wicked.  The 
Greeks  and  Maltese,  who  are  numerous,  are  very 
dangerous.  It  is  riot  safe  to  venture  alone  in  the 
streets,  even  in  the  day  time.  I  always,  when  I 
walked  out,  was  accompanied  by  another  passen- 
ger from  Austria.  If  a  stranger  happens  to  stop 
at  a  hotel,  he  has  to  apply  to  his  consul  for  pro- 
tection, who  will  give  him  two  officers  to  watch 
over  his  life  and  property,  one  by  day  and  another 
by  night.  Lately,  all  the  foreign  consuls  assem- 
bled and  threatened  to  exterminate  the  Greeks 
and  Maltese  if  they  should  molest  the  foreigners, 
either  residents  or  travelers.  It  was  only  a  few 
weeks  ago  that  a  gentleman  and  lady  were  found 
massacred  in  the  hotel  the  first  night  of  their 
arrival.  They  had  not  yet  made  application  to 
their  consul  for  protection.  I  \vas  pleased  to 
observe  that  there  was  a  Catholic  church  and 
school  in  this  place.  The  market  is  well  sup- 
plied ;  everything  is  abundant  and  cheap  ;  yet 
all  is  imported.  Meat,  vegetables,  fowls,  fish  and 
bread  are  exhibited  in  piles.  Fowls  are  plenty, 
especially  wild  ;  a  duck  can  be  purchased  for 
twenty-five  cents,  and  the  currency  of  every 
nation  is  taken  at  par.\ 


CHAPTER    VII. 

THE    HOLY   LAND. 

SAILING  FROM  PORT  SAlD — SIGHT  OF  PALESTINE — LANDING  AT  THE  HOLY  LAND — 

JAFFA — STARTING  FOR  JERUSALEM PLAINS  OF  SARON — RAMLEH TOWER  OF 

THE  FORTY  MARTYRS A  RASCALLY   PIEDMONTESE ABOU  GOSH THE  GOOD 

THIEF'S  VILLAGE — VALLEY  OF  THEREBINTH— BROOK  WHERE  DAVID  PICKED  UP 
THE  STONES  TO  KILL  GOLIATH APPROACH  TO  JERUSALEM.  \ 

/WE  were  to  sail  about  the  setting  of  the  sun  ; 
and  as  that  was  the  hour  of  the  evening  prayer 
of  the  Mohammedans,  I  felt  some  uneasiness  about 
everything  going  right  on  the  steamer  on  leaving 
that  at  present  difficult  harbor.  The  pilot  was  on 
board,  'and  the  Turks,  including  the  captain  and 
pilot,  having  spread  on  deck  their  praying  car- 
pets, commenced  the  evening  prayer,  turning 
towards  Mecca.  I  have  no  doubt  of  their  sin- 
cerity. Their  punctuality  in  performing  an  act 
of  their  religion  edified  me  5  they  were  afraid  of 
displeasing  God  or  Mohammed  by  omitting  it.  It 
gave  me  occasion  to  pray  to  God  for  those  poor 
heathens,  to  remove  from  their  hearts  that  veil 
which  prevents  them  from  seeing  the  truth,  and, 
by  acquiring  the  true  faith,  they  would  learn 
that  to  neglect  the  duties  of  their  station,  in  order 
to  perform  an  act  of  religion,  would  displease 
God  rather  than  please  him  ;  that  prayer  would 

(133) 


134  THE   HOLY   LAND. 

be  a  superstition  and. not  an  act  of  religion.  True 
faith  would  have  instructed  them  that  if  the  cap- 
tain, pilot  and  sailors,  instead  of  abandoning  their 
posts  in  that  perilous  time,  when  the  steamer 
was  about  to  commence  to  move  out  of  that  dan- 
gerous location,  they  had  made  a  right  intention 
of  pleasing  God  in  the  careful  discharge  of  the 
duties  of  their  stations,  that  would  have  been  a 
good  prayer,  and  if  they  wished  to  perform  an 
exterior  act  of  religion  they  might  have  anticipa- 
ted or  postponed  it.  I 

At  this  time  I  was  leaning  on  the  side  of  that 
part  of  the  stern  appropriated  to  first  class  pas- 
sengers, when  one  or  two  Mussulmans,  deck  pas- 
sengers, stepped  on  the  highest  part  of  the  steamer 
where  I  stood  ;  spread  their  praying  carpet,  and 
turning  towards  Mecca,  commenced  their  evening 
prayer.  The  captain  and  other  officers  allowed 
them  to  remain  ;  but  as  I  was  in  their  way,  looking 
towards  Mecca,  and  obstructing,  as  it  were,  the 
view  in  that  direction,  one  of  them  made  signs  to 
me  with  his  hands  to  move  off,  but  I  paid  DO 
attention  to  him.  The  steamer  had  started  and 
was  moving  out  of  the  harbor,  and  as  it  was  the 
time,  of  prayer,  she  got  aground,  and  stuck  so  fast 
to  the  sand,  that  notwithstanding  all  the*  efforts • 
made  by  the  pilot,  officers  and  crew,  she  would 
no i  move.  The  agent  sent  assistance  from  Port 
Said,  but  to  no  avail,  the  steamer  was  as  firm  as 
a  rock  ;  so  we  were  obliged  to  remain  there, 
hoping  to  be  able  to  start  again  at  the  next  high 
tide.  The  evening  was  beautiful,  and  I  enjoyed 


PALESTINE.  135 

it  very  much,  spending  the  rest  of  the  night  on 
deck  near  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Nile./ 

About  midnight  we  sailed  by  the  light  of  the 
moon,  and  next  morning  we  sighted  the  shore 
towards  Gaza,  the  theater  of  the  fights  between 
Samson  and  the  Philistines  ;  that  Gaza  whose 
heavy  and  massive  gates  had  been  closed  to  keep 
Samson  a  prisoner  ;  but  he  tore  them  out  during 
the  night,  laid  them  upon  his  shoulder,  and  left 
them  on  the  top  of  a  hill ;  that  Gaza  where  the 
Treasurer  of  Queen  Candace  received  baptism 
from  St.  Philip — that  once  great  city  now  reduced 
to  a  small  town,  only  one  mile  from  the  sea,  still 
luxuriates  among  a  rich  vegetation.  I  thanked 
the  Almighty  that  my  eyes  had  been  favored  to 
behold  the  Holy  Land,  for  which  the  Israelites 
had  sighed  in  Egypt  for  215  years,  and  when  the 
desired  day  arrived,  out  of  600,000  fighting  men, 
besides  women  and  children,  after  forty  years  of 
wandering  in  the  desert,  only  two  entered  it! 
That  promised  land,  symbol  of  that  heavenly, 
spiritual  land,  of  the  kingdom  of  heaven  which  we 
hope  to  be  made  worthy  to  enter  according  to  the 
promises  of  Chris L  My  happiness  was  excessive 
in  beholding  Palestine,  that  land  which  was  the 
colony  of  the  Patriarchs,  the  seat  and  home  of 
the  Prophets,  the  country  that  received  the  Son 
of  God — the  promised  Messiah  ;  that  land  which 
supported  Him  for  so  many  years,  fed  Him  and 
nourished  Him  ;  that  land  which  was  His  throne 
on  earth  and  His  foot-stool ;  and  when  I  was 
about  to  put  foot  on  it,  I  thought  that  the  words 


136  THE   HOLY    LAND. 

of  God  to  Moses  on  Mount  Sinai  were  applicable 
to  me  :  il  Put  off  the  shoes  from  thy  feet  because 
the  place  whereon  thou  standest  is  holy  land.';\ 

By  a  mistake  of  somebody,  we  ran  towards 
Ascalon,  so  often  mentioned  in  the  Holy  Scrip- 
tures for  its  celebrated,  lovely  and  fertile  plains, 
and  which  has  been  rendered  glorious  for  the 
heroic  achievements  of  the  brave  Crusaders.  The 
error  being  discovered,  the  pilot  turned  the  boat 
more  to  the  northward,  and  as  there  was  a  strong 
western  wind,  and  the  steamer  being  lightly  laden, 
she  tossed  from  side  to  side  very  uncomfortably, 
in  such  a  manner,  that  I  was  obliged  to  remain 
sea-sick  on  my  bed  till  we  arrived  near  Jaffa. 
I  was  afraid  that  I  would  not  be  able  to  land  at 
this  city  on  account  of  the  heavy  sea,  and  thus  be 
carried  to  Beyrout  as  is  often  the  case,  when 
the  sea  is  heavy  ;  it  being  a  very  dangerous  shore, 
and  the  steamer  may  be  very  easily  dashed 
against  the  breakers.  Several  times,  especially 
in  the  winter,  the  steamer  cannot  even  land  the 
mail,  but  she  makes  her  appearance,  fires  a  can- 
non and  passes  on.  When  there  is  an  appearance 
of  a  storm,  all  the  crafts  at  anchor  set  sail,  and  off 
they  go  into  the  wide  sea,  returning  again  after 
the  storm.  If  they  were  to  remain,  they  would  be 
sure  to  be  smashed  to  pieces.  I  was  relieved 
from  my  fear  when  I  saw  a  boat  starting  from 
Jaffa  endeavoring  with  great  labor  to  come  to  the 
steamer  ;  the  breakers  were  striking  fearfully 
against  it.  It  was  with  difficulty  and  danger  that 
I  succeeded  in  stepping  from  the  steamer  into 


THE   LATIN    CONVENT.  137 

the  boat,  and  splashed  with  salt  water,  sea-sick 
and  light-headed,  I  thought  of  the  danger  of 
entering  the  narrow  opening  of  the  old  ruined 
harbor  where  the  waves  were  breaking  most 
tremendously. \ 

Here  other  Arabs  in  another  boat  wanted  to 
go  through,  and  both  were  obliged  to  stop,  the 
opening  not  being  wide  enough  to  admit  the  pass- 
age of  two  boats  at  once.  The  Arabs  commenced 
to  quarrel  about  who  was  to  pass  first,  while  the 
waves,  breaking  against  the  boat,  were  washing 
over  us,  till  some  Turkish  officer  from  the  shore 
called  out  to  the  other  boat  to  let  us  pass.  It 
was  about  dark  when  we  landed.  From  the  boat 
I  stepped  on  a  flight  of  stone  stairs,  at  the  top  of 
which  there  was  a  large  crowd  of  Arabs,  one  of 
whom  asked  for  my  passport.  I  had  it  in  my 
pocket,  and  handed  it  to  him  ;  he  opened  it  and 
without  reading  it,  pronounced  it  all  right,  and 
returned  it  to  me.  I  think  that  he  could  not  read 
it.  I  gave  half  a  crown  to  the  custom  officer  to 
let  my  baggage  pass  without  being  opened.  He 
expected  only  three  or  four  piasters  (20  cts),  and 
when  he  saw  half  a  crown  in  his  hand,  fearing 
that  it  was  a  mistake,  and  to  avoid  any  danger  of 
its  being  rectified,  he  disappeared./ 

The  Latin  Convent  being  close  to  the  shore  a 
domestic  of  the  same  was  there  present  to  re- 
ceive pilgrims.  I  felt  glad  to  be  in  a  place  where 
the  kind  and  hearty  hospitality  of  the  Franciscan 
Friars,  made  me  consider  myself  at  home.  Fath- 
er Gregorio,  an  Italian  Franciscan  Friar,  received 
ii.— 9. 


138  THE   HOLY   LAND. 

me  with  the  affection  of  a  brother.  He  brought 
me  into  the  parlor,  where  I  got  coffee  and  other 
refreshments,  while  he  attended  to  my  baggage. 
I  gave  a  napoleon  to  the  lay-brother  to  change 

and  pay  the  boat-man,  etc I  was  shown 

my  room  where  there  was  a  window  which  com- 
manded a  very  fine  view  of  the  sea  and  harbor. 
I  could  not  satiate  myself  in  contemplating  this 
sea  of  Tyre,  called  by  the  Scripture  "  the  great 
sea,"  which  bore  the  fleets  of  the  Royal  Prophet, 
bringing  the  cedars  of  Lebanon,  and  the  purples 
of  Sidon  ;  that  sea  where  the  Leviathan  leaves 
traces  behind  him.  This  is  the  sea  to  which  the 
Almighty  set  limits  and  gates,  with  a  command- 
ment, not  to  trespass  them,  and,  which  beheld 
God  and  fled  ;  this  is  the  sea  which  swallowed  the 
Prophet  Jonah  fleeing  from  the  face  of  the  Lord, 
and  the  sea  where  Noah  went  into  the  ark  to  be 
saved  from  the  waters  of  the  deluge.  With  these 
contemplations,  and  reflecting  on  these  Christian 
institutions,  never  sufficiently  admired,  by  means 
of  which  the  traveler  finds  friends  and  accommo- 
dations in  the  most  barbarous  regions,  I  retired.\ 
•  Next  morning  I  went  to  confession  and  said 
Mass  in  the  church  of  the  Convent,  It  is  a  neat 
stone  church,  having  four  marble  altars  and  some 
fine  paintings.  This  being  the  first  place  at 
which  I  landed  in  Palestine,  I  received  the  Plen- 
ary Indulgence  which  is  attached  to  any  port  in 
which  pilgrims  may  land  in  Palestine.  After 
breakfast,  having  heard  that  a  Friar  and  four 
other  travelers  were  going  to  Jerusalem,  I  made 


JAFFA.  139 

arrangements  to  go  with  them  in  the  afternoon. 
The  lay  brother  at  the  Convent  procured  two 
horses  for  me,  one  to  carry  my  baggage,  the 
other  for  myself ;  the  whole,  including  the  drago- 
man, for  18  francs,  ten  to  be  paid  in  Jaffa,  and 
eight  in  Jerusalem. | 

Jaffa  is  the  ancient  Joppa  of  the  Scripture.  Its 
Phoanician  name  is  Japho  which  signifies  beautiful 
or  agreeable.  It  is  believed  that  there  was 
another  city  in  the  land  of  the  Hebrews  called 
Jaffa,  which  was  taken  by  the  Romans  and  the 
name  was  afterwards  transferred  to  this  city  ; 
hence  it  came  to  be  called  Jaffa.  It  was  a  city  of 
great  consideration  in  history,  but  now  it  is  re- 
duced to  a  miserable  group  of  houses,  having 
only  5,000  inhabitants,  one  fifth  of  whom  are 
Christians.  The  buildings  are  huddled  together 
on  the  declivity  of  a  lofty  hill.  Being  built  on  a 
rock  rising  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheater,  sur- 
mounted on  the  top  by  a  ruined  castle,  surrounded 
by  a  strong  wall  of  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  in 
height,  and  outside  by  rich  gardens  of  orange  and 
lemon  trees,  tall  cypress  and  palm-trees,  it  makes 
a  handsome  appearance  from  the  sea.  Inside  it 
is  wretched  ;  the  streets  are  dirty,  crooked  and 
badly  paved.  It  is  built  of  stone,  and  there  are 
two  Convents,  one  Latin  and  the  other  Schismatic 
Greek,  and  several  mosques,  all  of  stone.  The 
port  of  Jaffa  is  considered  to  be  the  oldest  in  the 
world  .\ 

Commentators,  and  Pliny  himself,  say  that 
Jaffa  was  built  before  the  deluge,  and  that  at  Jaffa 


140  THE   HOLY   LAND. 

Noah  entered  into  the  ark.  After  the  flood  had 
subsided  the  Patriarch  gave  to  Sem,  his  oldest 
son,  all  the  lands  dependent  on  the  city  founded 
by  his  third  son  Japhet.  An  old  and  constant 
tradition  exists  in  the  country  that  the  sepulchre 
of  Noah,  the  second  father  of  mankind,  is  con- 
tained in  the  city  of  Jaffa.  Now  the  harbor  is 
filled  with  sand  and  accessible  only  by  small 
vessels.  This  harbor  is  guarded  by  two  forts  and 
is  provided  with  a  good  revolving  light-house. 
In  the  time  of  Solomon  it  was  .a  port  of  some 
importance.  Here  Hiram,  King  of  Tyre,  brought 
the  Cedars  of  Lebanon  to  build  the  temple  in 
Jerusalem,  and  in  this  port  the  Prophet  Jonah 
embarked,  fleeing  from  the  face  of  God.  Joppa 
has  been  sacked  and  destroyed  several  times  in 
succession  by  the  Assyrians,  Egyptians,  and  other 
nations.  It  was  one  of  the  eleven  Toparchies 
where  the  idol  Ascarlen  was  worshiped.  The 
town  was  burned  by  Judas  Maccabeus,  because 
its  inhabitants  had  slaughtered  two  hundred 
Jews.  At  the  commencement  of  the  troubles  in 
Judea,  Jaffa  was  destroyed  by  Gestius  ;  pirates 
rebuilt  the  walls,  and  again  it  was  sacked  by 
Yespasianus.  Napoleon  I.  took  this  city  in  1799.\ 
Here  St.  Peter  raised  Tabitha  from  the  dead, 
and  here  in  the  house  of  Simon,  the  tanner,  he 
received  the  messengers  sent  by  the  Centurion  to 
invite  St.  Peter  to  go  to  Caesarea  of  Palestine  to 
baptize  him  and  his  family.  I  went  to  see  this 
house.  It  is  a  small  stone  building  ;  and  I  knelt 
to  pray  on  the  corner  where  he  was  praying,  and 


JAFFA.  141 

where  he  saw  the  vision  of  a  sheet  full  of  ani- 
mals descending  from  heaven,  and  heard  a  voice 
commanding  him  to  kill  and  eat.  In  Csesarea 
of  Palestine  there  is  a  Partial  Indulgence,  because 
it  is  the  place  where  St.  Paul  was  confined  in  jail 
for  two  years,  and  where  he  spoke  of  the  Chris- 
tian religion  to  Felix,  Agrippa,  Berenice  and 
Festus.  There  is  also  a  Partial  Indulgence  in  the 
Pilgrim's  Castle.  The  Indulgence  in  all  the  holy 
places  may  be  gained  by  reciting  a  Pater,  Ave 
and  Gloria,  and  by  being  in  a  state  of  grace.  ( 

This  city  while  under  the  dominion  of  the  Chris- 
tians had  a  Bishop,  suffragan  to  the  See  of  Csesa- 
rea.  Jaffa,  such  as  we  see  it  now,  is  not  very 
old.  In  1647,  pilgrims  were  received  in  caverns 
and  wooden  huts  built  by  the  Friars  ;  it  had  only 
a  few  houses  surrounding  the  forts,  and  the  Friars 
were  obliged  by  the  Turks  to  demolish  even  those 
huts./ 

In  the  afternoon,  about  two  o'clock,  in  com- 
pany with  the  Franciscan  lay  brother,  who  was  the 
medical  director  of  the  convent  of  St  Saviour  at 
Jerusalem,  and  two  other  Arabian  travelers,  a 
lady  with  her  husband,  a  Turk  carrying  his 
baggage  on  a  horse,  and  two  foot  pilgrims  whom  we 
left  behind  after  some  distance,  I  mounted  my 
horse,  and  found  that  the  Arabian  saddle  was 
very  inconvenient  to  a  European  ;  they  are  too 
wide,  and  made  in  the  shape  of  a  round  arch.  My 
dragoman  took  charge  of  the  other  horse  loaded 
with  my  baggage.  We  passed  through  the  south 
gate  of  the  town,  which  is  very  massive  and 


142  THE   HOLY   LAND. 

guarded  by  a  fort.  Close  to  this  gate  there  is 
a  fine  fountain,  and  another  outside  not  far 
from  it.  The  road  leads  through  fine  gardens  of 
oranges,  lemons,  figs,  pomegranates,  palms,  and  a 
few  apple  trees.  We  crossed  the  large  and  fertile 
plain  of  Saron,  which  extends  from  Gaza  to 
Mount  Carmel.  Its  soil,  mixed  with  fine  sand,  is  ex- 
tremely rich.  I  saw  many  crocusses,  narcissuses, 
and  other  flowers  growing  spontaneously  and  wild 
in  the  fields.  Some  villages,  invariably  in  ruins,, 
were  visible  along  the  road,  and  several  clumps 
of  olive-trees  and  sycamores  were  also  observed 
occasionally.  This  fertile  plain  is  left  to  run  into 
thistles  and  weeds.  You  behold  nothing  else  but 
dry  and  withered  grass,  with  some  scanty  spots 
where  some  Arabs  were  ploughing  and  sowing 
barley  or  wheat ;  a  few  palm  trees  and  some  fig 
trees,  and  Pharaoh's  figs  are  all  the  produce  of 
the  rich  plains  of  Saron.\ 

About  half  way  on  the  road  to  Bamleh,  there 
is  a  well,  the  work  of  St.  Helen,  the  mother  of 
Constantine,  and  near  to  it  a  wood  of  olive  trees 
planted  in  the  quincunx  form  ascribed  by  tradition 
to  the  time  of  Godfrey  of  Bouillon.  This  well  is  ac- 
cessible by  descending  twenty-seven  steps.  It  is 
thirty-three  feet  long  and  thirty  broad,  and  is 
composed  of  twenty-four  arches,  and  receives  the 
rain  by  twenty-four  apertures.  From  this  spot  we 
saw  Ramleh  situated  in  an  enchanting  location,, 
appearing  flanked  by  the  stately  tower  of  the 
Forty  Martyrs.\ 

We  arrived  at  Eamleh  a  long  time  before  the 


RAMLEH.  143 

setting  of  the  sun,  and  having  left  our  baggage  at 
the  Latin  Convent  of  the  Franciscans,  whose 
kind  hospitality  we  were  obliged  to  receive,  as 
there  is  no  other  place  for  Christians  to  lodge, 
accompanied  by  the  Friar  who  had  traveled  with 
me,  we  went  to  see  the  tower  of  the  Forty  Mar- 
tyrs. This  was  originally  the  steeple  of  a  church 
dedicated  to  the  Forty  Martyrs  of  Sebaste,  attach- 
ed to  a  monastery  of  which  some  fine  ruins  are 
still  remaining  ;  but  at  present  this  tower  is  a 
minaret  of  a  forsaken  mosque.  There  is  a  Partial 
Indulgence  to  be  gained  in  this  ruined  church  by 
the  recital  of  a  Pater,  Ave  and  Gloria,  which  I, 
as  a  pilgrim,  endeavored  to  receiver 

This  monastery  was  built  by  the  Knights  Tem- 
plar who  here  gave  hospitality  to  the  pilgrims, 
and  were  escorting  them  to  the  holy  city  of  Jeru- 
salem. This  tower  is  well  and  solidly  built  of 
fine  white  marble.  Above  the  gate  of  the  tower 
is  an  Arabic  inscription.! 

We  ascended  the  tower,  which  is  very  high, 
and  from  the  summit  witnessed  the  setting  of  the 
sun,  a  scene  of  majesty  and  splendor  worthy  of 
the  promised  land.  The  rich  plain  of  Saron  was 
visible,  to  a  great  extent,  from  the  direction  of 
Gaza,  westward  to  Jaffa.  At  the  north  was  Csesarea, 
while  the  mountains  of  Judea  were  darkening  the 
eastern  horizon.  This  extensive  plain,  now  a  bleak 
and  arid  desert,  has  been  the  field  of  many  battles 
between  the  Israelites  and  Philistines.  Here 
David,  Samson,  and  many  others  defeated  those 
who,  humbled  and  smitten,  but  never  destroyed. 


144  THE    HOLT   LAND. 

have  many  a  time  laid  waste  this  land,  once  flow- 
ing with  milk  and  honey.  The  ruins  consist  of 
some  porticoes  and  corridors,  a  large  dry  well 
in  the  middle  of  the  convent,  and  wild  fig  trees  in 
every  direction.  Now  there  is  there  a  Mussul- 
man cemetery.  It  is  said  that  in  this  place  St. 
Joseph  and  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  the  infant  Je- 
sus, halted  during  their  flight  into  Egypt. \ 

The  date  of  the  foundation  of  this  city  is  not 
known.  This  is  the  Mamie  of  the  Arabs,  and 
the  Arimathea  of  the  Jews,  the  birth-place  of  Jo- 
seph, that  righteous  man  who,  in  company  with 
Mcodemus,  had  the  honor  of  burying  our  Sa- 
viour. Now  it  is  a  miserable  town  of  two  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  The  houses  are  nothing  else 
but  huts  of  plaster  and  mud  with  a  small  dome, 
like  the  vault  of  a  mosque,  or  the  tomb  of  a  San- 
ton.  These  wretched  buildings  are  embosomed 
by  fig,  pomegranate,  palm,  and  olive  trees,  the 
palm  trees,  which  are  the  finest  in  Idumea,  over- 
topping the  rest,  and  the  houses.  The  town  lies 
on  the  crest  of  a  gentle  hill.\ 

This  was  the  first  city  taken  by  the  Crusaders, 
who  occupied  it  without  shedding  one  drop  of 
blood,  its  occupants  having  fled.  At  that  time,  it 
was  a  large  and  strong  city,  as  the  remains  of  its 
massive  walls  testify.  There  is,  also,  another  In- 
dulgence to  be  gained  in  the  church  of  St.  John, 
which  is  now  turned  into  a  mosque.  Besides  the 
Latin  convent,  there  are  two  others — a  Greek  and 
an  Armenian — both  Schismatic,  and  two  fine 
mosques. \ 


A   RASCALLY    P1EDMONTESE.  145 

We  returned  to  the  convent.  In  the  garden 
of  the  convent,  I  saw  that  majestic  palm-tree, 
thirty  feet  high,  admired  by  all  travelers.  I  vis- 
ited the  church,  which  is  small,  but  very  neat  ;  it 
has  three  marble  altars  and  several  fine  paintings. 
There  is,  also,  a  small  chapel,  separated  from  the 
church,  but  which  can  be  entered  from  the 
church,  and  occupies  the  site  of  the  house  of  Jo- 
seph of  Arimathea.  This  chapel  is  dedicated  to 
him,  and  there  is  in  it  a  fine  painting  representing 
Joseph  and  Nicodemus  taking  down  the  body  of 
our  Saviour  from  the  cross.  To  this  chapel,  there 
is  attached  a  Partial  Indulgence^ 

In  the  evening,  several  pilgrims  and  other  trav- 
elers arrived  from  Jerusalem,  on  their  way  to 
Jaffa.  Amongst  the  travelers,  there  was  a  ras- 
cally Piedmontese,  a  disgrace  to  the  country  in 
which  he  was  born.  He  came  with  a  woman 
dressed  in  man's  attire  and  whom  he  represented 
to  be  his  wife.  The  Religious  knew  him,  and 
they  had  received  information,  from  Jerusalem, 
of  his  whereabouts.  They  gave  them  hospitality 
but  they  did  not  allow  them  to  stay  together. 
In  Jerusalem,  I  learned  that  this  man  had  been 
forced,  by  the  French  consul,  to  quit  that  city  and 
the  Holy  Land.  His  conduct  had  been  disgrace- 
ful, and  he  had  given  much  trouble  to  some  Re- 
ligious. He  threatened  to  shoot  the  good  Fran- 
ciscan Friar  who  had  in  charge  the  Garden  of 
Gethsemane.  One  day,  while  this  lay  brother 
was  at  work  in  this  sacred  spot,  that  Italian  ras- 
cal was  observed,  by  an  Arabian  boy,  climbing 


146  THE   HOLY   LAND. 

the  wall  of  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  with  a  gun 
pointing  at  the  Friar.  The  boy  gave  the  alarm, 
and  the  Friar  fled  to  save  his  life.  The  French 
Consul  was  applied  to  for  aid,  and  he  ordered  the 
rascal  to  clear  out  of  Jerusalem  immediately,  giv- 
ing him  only  till  the  next  day.  All  Catholics  in 
the  Holy  Land  are  under  the  protection  of  the 
French  government,  and,  in  case  of  trouble,  they 
must  apply  to  the  French  Consul.\ 

We  started,  early  in  the  morning,  for  Jerusa- 
lem. It  is  a  long  and  painful  journey  of  nine  or 
ten  hours,  and  it  is  necessary  to  arrive  at  Jeru- 
salem before  dark,  as  the  gates  of  the  city  are, 
ordinarily,  closed  one  hour  after  the  setting  of  the 
sun,  and,  often  sooner.  We  passed  near  Lood 
(or  Lod  or  Lydda  or  Diospolis),  where  St.  Peter 
cured  Enea,  who  was  afflicted  with  pals}r.  Here, 
there  are  noble  remains,  especially  of  the  finely 
carved  choir  of  the  famous  church  of  St.  George, 
so  often  alluded  to  by  the  writers  on  the  Crusa- 
ders ;  and  here  a  Partial  Indulgence  can  be  gain- 
ed. Lydda  was  once  one  of  the  most  conspicuous 
Toparchies  of  the  land  of  Juda,  and  it  was  a 
beautiful  city,  but  now  it  is  a  miserable  village, 
occupied  by  Turks  and  Schismatic  Greeks.  This 
road  is  not  over  free  from  robbers.  The  Turkish 
government  has  built  small  forts  along  the  road 
from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  in  sight  of  each  other,  and 
these  are  guarded  for  the  protection  of  travelers. 
The  road,  at  first,  continued  through  the  plain  of 
Saron.  We  passed  close  to  Abou  Gosh,  a  place 
notorious  for  its  robbers  and  murderers.  The  lo- 


THE  THIEF'S  VILLAGE.  147 

cality  is  named  after  a  formidable  Sheik  of  that 
place,  a  noted  robber  and  the  terror  of  travelers, 
who  had  plundered  and  assassinated  pilgrims  for 
many  years.  His  descendants,  tribe  and  people, 
had  learned  and  inherited  from  him  the  charac- 
ter of  robbers  and  murderers,  and  became  a  ter- 
ror to  the  country.  The  Turkish  government 
could  find  no  better  means  to  protect  travelers, 
than  to  keep  him  securely  in  Constantinople,  as 
a  hostage  for  the  good  behavior  of  his  tribe. 
The  valley  of  Abou  Gosh  was  the  favorite  haunt 
of  Sheik  Abou  Gosh.  The  Superior  of  the  con- 
vent of  St.  Saviour  in  Jerusalem  had,  frequently, 
sent  priests  to  Abou  Gosh,  but  they  had  always 
been  murdered,  and  he  resolved  to  send  no  more 
missionaries  to  that  fearful  place./ 

Ten  miles  from  Ramleh,  we  arrived  at  a  vil- 
lage, or  rather  a  heap  of  ruins,  called  Z/atroun,or 
the  "  Thief 's  "  village,  from  having  been  the  birth- 
place of  the  criminal,  St.  Disma,  who  had  the  grace 
of  being  crucified  by  the  side  of  our  Saviour,  and 
compassionating  the  dying  Jesus,  deserved  to  be  il- 
luminated about  His  Divinity,  and,  upon  the  cross, 
confesssing  him,  had  the  happiness  to  hear  those 
consoling  words,  "  This  day  shalt  thou  le  with  me 
in  Paradise."  In  his  behalf,  Christ  performed 
His  last  act  of  mercy.  Here  there  is  a  church 
dedicated  to  this  Saint,  and  a  Partial  Indulgence 
is  attached  to  this  spot.  This  ruined  village  is 
on  the  summit  of  a  rocky  eminence,  which  we 
were  obliged  to  cross,  leaving  the  town  on  our 
right,  and  this  is  the  first  undulation  of  the  moun- 
tains of  Judea.\ 


148  THE   HOLY   LAND. 

We  now  ascended  the  first  chain  of  mountains, 
by  a  long  and  gently  inclined  road.  I  was  riding 
in  advance  of  the  party,  in  company  with  the 
Friar,  and  near  the  top  of  the  first  range  of 
mountains.  I  was  glad  to  hear  that  it  was  half 
way  between  Eamleh  and  Jerusalem  ;  hence  the 
halting  place,  and  the  time  to  take  some  cold  din- 
ner, which  the  good  Fathers  at  Eamleh  furnished 
to  every  passenger,  because  there  is  no  tavern 
nor  any  other  kind  of  accommodation  along  the 
road  to  Jerusalem.  Here  was  a  grove  of  olive 
trees  ;  I  was  not  hungry,  but  I  was  so  fatigued 
from  riding  on  my  Arabian  saddle,  that  I  could 
hardly  have  kept  on  horseback  any  longer.  I 
and  the  Monk  dismounted,  fastened  our  horses, 
and  laying  ourselves  on  the  grass,  commenced  to 
take  some  refreshments,  which  we  had  in  our  lit- 
tle side  valise.  But,  what  was  my  disappoint- 
ment, when  the  party  arrived  and  told  us  that  it 
was  not  the  stopping-place,  but,  that  we  were 
to  cross  the  first  range  of  mountains  and  halt  in 
the  valley  of  Terebinth.  Thus,  with  great  grief, 
and  much  difficulty,  assisted  by  my  dragoman,  I 
mounted  again,  that  horrible  Arabian  saddle,  and 
following  a  dry  torrent  channel,  we  entered  a  bar- 
ren and  rocky  valley  destitute  of  every  kind  of 
vegetation  and  of  every  kind  of  animal  life.  The 
desolation  of  these  places  explains  why  the  daugh- 
ter of  Jephtha  went  to  weep  on  the  mountain  of  Ju- 
dea,  and  why  the  prophets  repaired  to  the  high 
places  of  these  mountains  to  pour  forth  their 
heart-rending  lamentations,  and  shed  tears  over 
the  ruins  of  Jerusalem.\ 


VALLEY    OF   TEREBINTH.  149 

The  mountains  are  of  a  conic  form,  and  all  look 
alike.  They  connect  with  each  other  at  their 
bases,  which  are  barren  and  destitute  of  vegeta- 
tion. At  a  distance,  we  could  see  an  old  fortress 
which  is  called  the  Castle  of  the  Maccabees. 
Herds  of  goats  with  pendent  ears,  sheep,  cows, 
and  asses,  which  by  their  fine  appearance,  called 
to  my  mind  the  onagry  of  the  Bible,  could  be  seen 
grazing  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains  ;  a  few  scat- 
tered trees  could  also  be  seen.  In  the  ravines  there 
were  several  olive  trees  and,  occasionally,  these 
trees  formed  continuous  woods  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountains  ;  one  of  these  was  that  in  which  I  and 
the  Monk  had  stopped  by  mistake.  / 

After  passing  this  village,  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  road  are  the  ruins  of  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Maccabees — not  those  of  Modin,  the  chil- 
dren of  Mathathias,  but  the  seven  brothers,  Mac- 
cabees, who  were  exhorted  by  their  own  mother 
to  give  up  their  lives  rather  than  to  transgress 
the  law  of  the  Lord,  i 

Between  Abou  Gosh  and  the  road,  I  saw  a  fine 
church  and  convent  which  had  been  abandoned. 
The  church  was  dedicated  to  the  Prophet  Jere- 
miah who,  it  is  believed,  was  born  in  this  valley 
in  a  village,  which  retains  even  yet  his  name.  It- 
is  certain  that  he  repaired  to  this  desolated  val- 
ley and  barren  locality  to  pour  out  his  lamenta- 
tions. Here  there  is  a  little  hamlet  called  the  vil- 
lage of  Jeremiah  which  leads  to  the  next  valley 
of  Terebinth.  This  rocky  and  sterile  mountain 
re-echoes  still  his  doleful  sighs,  to  which  I  added 


150  THE   HOLY   LAND. 

mine  for  not  being  able  to  endure  any  longer  that 
dreadful  Arabic  saddle.  Leaning,  now  to  the 
right,  now  to  the  left,  I  tried  in  that  manner  to 
find  relief  in  a  different  posture  ;  but  my  legs  had 
become  as  stiff  as  sticks.  The  pilgrim  misses 
very  much  the  greatly -needed  hospitality  of  the 
Franciscans,  who  were  obliged  to  abandon  the  con- 
vent and  church  in  the  valley  of  Jeremiah.  The 
Bedouins  were  continually  committing  depreda- 
tions on  the  convent  and  church  and  murdering 
the  Friars  ;  and,  in  1490,  in  a  single  night,  the  Be- 
douins massacred  the  entire  community  of  nine 
Franciscans,  who  were  there  to  give  hospitality  to 
travelers.  There  is  a  Partial  Indulgence  attached 
to  this  churcli.l 

After  entering  the  valley  of  Terebinth  and 
crossing  a  little  torrent,  we  descended  to  the  low- 
est part  of  the  valley  ;  there  we  halted  at  a  cot- 
tage kept  by  a  European — a  Catholic.  Here  we 
stretched  ourselves  upon  the  grass  and  were  very 
glad  to  rest.  My  Arab  opened  the  chest  of  pro- 
visions for  me  and  the  Franciscan  friar,  but  I  was 
not  hungry.  The  Friar,  who  was  acquainted  with 
the  Arab,  gave  him  a  glass  of  wine  which  he 
drank  freely.  I  was  surprised  at  it,  because  he 
was  a  Mussulman,  following  the  religion  of  Mo- 
hammed, and  the  Koran  forbids  the  use  of  wine  ; 
but  the  monk,  smiling,  turned  to  me,  saying, 
11  Quest  e  un  Turco  fino,  mangia  il  porco  e  beve 
vino"  (This  is  a  cunning  Turk  ;  he  drinks  wine 
and  eats  pork).  He  drank  sufficient  to  make  him 
loquacious  and  cheerful  the  rest  of  the  journey. 


VALLEY   TEREBINTH.  151 

Whilst  stretched  on  the  grass,  I  thought  how  this 
valley  had  been  the  scene  of  the  battles  of  the 
Lord.  In  this  valley,  the  youthful  David — then  a 
shepherd — having  taken  some  stones  from  the 
brook  (which  we  soon  afterwards  crossed  on  a 
bridge),  killed  the  giant  Goliath  ;  thus  humbling 
the  bold  impiety  of  that  impudent  infidel  who  had 
vomited  forth  horrible  blasphemies  against  the 
Lord  of  Hosts. \ 

After  one  hour  of  rest,  we  started  again  for  Je- 
rusalem. We  could  see  some  vineyards,  olive 
trees,  and  a  few  patches  of  cultivated  ground. 
We  were  now  in  the  valley  of  Terebinth,  and 
crossed  on  a  stone  bridge,  the  torrent  from  which 
David  took  the  five  stones  to  kill  Goliath.  This 
place  is  called  Colonia  (Colony),  but  the  real  name 
is  Kaloni ;  a  village  on  our  left.  Some  remains  of 
an  ancient  building  are  visible  among  the  modern 
ruins.  Here  we  saw  some  lemon  and  orange 
trees ;  the  last  that  are  to  be  found  on  the  way  to 
Jerusalem.  Soon  after  crossing  the  bridge,  we 
saw  the  village  of  Keriet-Lefta,  on  the  bank  of 
another  dry  channel;  and,  on  the  top  of  a  lofty 
hill,  the  village  of  El-Bire,  standing  on  the  way 
to  Nablous,  the  Sichem  of  the  kingdom  of  Israel 
and  the  Neapolis  of  Herod.  Here,  on  the  sum- 
mit of  this  second  range,  I  felt  chilly  ;  and,  though 
I  was  burning  with  the  heat  on  the  plains  of  Sa- 
ron,  I  now  felt  uncomfortable  on  account  of  the 
raw  wind  coming  from  the  mountains  of  Judea. 
I  put  on  my  thick  coat,  but  still  I  felt  cold,  and  it 
grew  colder  as  we  approached  Jerusalem.  Our 


152  THE    HOLY   LAND. 

road  was  through  a  desert  land  where  verdure 
and  vegetation  were  rarely  seen,  and  scarcely  any 
trees  could  be  found,  so  that  the  scene  became 
actually  bare.  The  sides  of  the  mountain  assumed 
at  once  the  appearance  of  grandeur  and  sterility. 
Vegetation  ceased  altogether ;  even  the  very 
mosses  disappeared.  It  took  us  one  hour  to  as- 
cend a  lofty  hill,  which  was  the  commencement 
of  the  third  range  of  mountains,  and  it  displayed 
to  our  eyes  a  still  more  dreary  region.  We  were 
another  hour  of  traveling  across  a  naked  plain, 
where  we  met  several  Arabs  and  Jews — men  and 
women — carrying  vegetables,  and  especially  cau- 
liflowers on  their  heads,  and  returning  from  Je- 
rusalem. I  was  told  that  we  were  near  the  holy 
city — the  much-desired  Sion.  I  observed  some 
gothic  walls  and  a  stone  quarry  ;  yet  Jerusalem 
was  not  to  be  seen.  This  city  being  built  on  the 
top  of  mountains,  is  not  visible  from  the  road  to 
Jaffa  till  a  person  is  close  to  it.  \ 

As  soon  as  I  saw  the  gothic  walls  of  the  fair 
daughter  of  Sion,  I  saluted  her.  I  thanked  God, 
too,  for  having  granted  me  the  undeserved  grace 
of  seeing  Jerusalem.  I  could  scarcely  believe  it  : 
I  thought  it  was  all  a  dream  ;  yet  it  was  a  reality. 

I  wished  to  enter  it  on  foot,  as  is  the  custom  of 
pilgrims  ;  but  this  grace,  this  favor,  was  not  allow- 
ed to  me.  I  was  unable  to  walk  :  I  could  not  even 
move.  I  could  hardly  even  hold  myself  on  horse- 
back, besides  being  nearly  frozen.  Outside  the 
gate  we  saw  the  Heverendissimo,  who  wore  a  very 
long  hat ;  he  was  preceded  by  two  janizaries  and 
followed  by  several  monks,  whom  we  saluted.\ 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

JERUSALEM. 

ENTRANCE  INTO  JERUSALEM  —  CASA  NUOVA  —  FATHER  EMMANUEL  —  CHURCH  OF  THE 
HOLY  SEPULCHRE  —  MOUNT  CALVARY  —  MIRACULOUS  FIRE  -  VIA  DOLOROSA  — 
PRISON  OF  ST.  PETER  -  CHURCH  OF  ST.  JAMES  THE  APOSTLE  —  PROBATIC  POND 
—CHURCH  AND  CONVENT  OF  ST.  SAVIOUR. 


we  approached  the  gate  of  the  city,  the 
customs  officers  made  signs,  asking  if  we  had  any 
thing  subject  to  duty.  The  friar  said,  Xo  —  and  ad- 
ded that  we  were  all  going  to  the  convent  ;  but, 
the  next  day  the  officers  came  to  the  convent  and 
asked  me  for  backsheesh.  We  entered  Jeru- 
salem by  the  gate  of  the  pilgrims,  called  also  the 
gate  of  Jaffa  or  of  Damascus.  This  gate  leads 
also  to  Bethlehem,  Hebron,  and  St.  John  in  the 
desert,  and  is  called  Bab-el-Kzalil  (Gate  of  the 
Beloved).  Some  Turkish  soldiers  armed  with  a 
carbine,  mounted,  with  a  curved  sabre,  kept  watch 
at  every  gate  of  the  city.  These  poor  creatures 
had  not  been  paid  for  over  one  year,  and  were  al- 
most in  rags  and  barefooted.  They  were  often 
obliged  to  lay  the  carbine  aside  in  order  to  mend 
their  trousers,  shoes,etc.  Near  this  gate  is  the  Tow- 
er of  David,  called  also  the  Pisans'  Tower,  over 
which  the  Turkish  flag  was  flying  in  the  wind. 
We  turned  to  the  left  and  soon  arrived  at  the  Ca- 
ii.—  10. 


154  JEEUSALEM. 

sa  Nuova;  the  Hospice  for  the  pilgrims.  A 
Plenary  Indulgence  can  be  gained  the  first  time  a 
person  enters  Jerusalem^ 

Here  in  the  Casa  Nuova  I  met  a  Franciscan  fa- 
ther— Father  Emmanuel — who  took  great  care  of 
me,  and  welcomed  me  as  a  brother.  I  was  sick, 
fatigued,  and  nearly  frozen,  and  I  could  not  get 
warm.  He  took  charge  of  my  baggage  and  took 
me  to  my  room.  I  gave  him  a  napoleon  to  have 
it  changed  and  pay  the  Arab :  I  was  too  fatigued 
and  sick  to  attend  to  this  matter.  I  took  some 
hot  coffee  in  my  room  and  retired  to  rest.  It  was 
now  about  dark  :  I  could  not  even  go  to  pay  a 
visit  to  the  Blessed  Sacrament ;  not  feeling  able 
to  walk  to  St.  Saviour's  Church.  I  refused  to 
take  any  supper,  but  requested  to  have  my  feet 
washed  in  warm  water,  because  they  were  as  cold 
as  ice.  I  was  literally  trembling  with  cold.  A 
fine  Arab  domestic  called  Abdallah,  who  was  very 
attentive  to  me  during  my  sickness  in  Jerusalem 
came  to  me,  and  I  requested  him  to  purchase  a 
woolen  flannel  and  two  pairs  of  woolen  stockings, 
because  I  had  none  with  me — and,  being  travel- 
ing in  a  warm  climate,  I  did  not  dream  that  I 
should  need  them.  The  day  before,  in  Jaffa,  and 
the  same  day  on  the  plain  of  Saron,  I  was  burn- 
ing from  the  heat ;  but  now,  on  the  top  of  the 
mountains  of  Judea,  I  was  freezing.  What  a 
change  in  one  day !  I  went  to  bed,  and  Abdal- 
lah brought  me  a  fine  Turkish  flannel  and  two 
pairs  of  thick  woolen  stockings.  I  put  on  the 
flannel,  while  he  went  to  fetch  the  warm  water 


FATHER   EMMANUEL.  155 

with  which  to  bathe  my  feet ;  and,  during  this 
operation  of  bathing,  he  went  for  some  hot  wine 
and  sugar  ;  and,  after  that,  I  went  to  bed.  I  took 
a  good  drink  of  hot  wine,  and,  covering  myself 
with  all  the  clothes  that  I  could  bear,  I  com- 
menced to  get  very  warm.  In  the  evening,  the 
kind  Father  Emmanuel  came  to.  my  room  and, 
on  conversing  together  in  French  and  English, 
we  discovered  that  we  were  acquainted  with  each 
other,  and  both  felt  happy  at  our  meeting. 
He  was  a  Belgian  Franciscan,  who,  for  several 
years,  had  resided  in  the  convent  at  Manchester, 
England.  He  was  a  Definitore,  Missionary  Apos- 
tolic and  had  occupied  distinctive  offices  in  the 
Order.  The  year  before,  my  housekeeper, 
Elizabeth  Collins,  went  to  Bolton,  England,  to  pay 
a  visit  to  her  relations.  She  visited  several  times 
in  Manchester,  which  is  only  ten  miles  from  Bol- 
ton, and  at  the  Franciscan  monastery  in  Droit- 
stilt,  near  the  city,  she  made  the  acquaintance 
of  Father  Emmanuel,  who  was  then  residing  in 
that  place.  She  showed  him  some  of  my  Indian 
books,  and  spoke  of  my  intention  of  visiting  the 
Holy  Land  the  next  year.  Some  of  the  Francis- 
can fathers  gave  me  valuable  information  about 
Palestine.  Here  at  Jerusalem,  we  discovered 
each  other,  and  the  company  of  Father  Emman- 
uel has  been  not  only  very  valuable,  but  of  great 
instruction  and  relief  to  me  in  this  Holy  Land — 
this  land  of  infidels.  Next  morning,  I  felt  better, 
but  the  weather  was  cold  and  uncomfortable  and 
the  rain,  which  poured  down  in  torrents  during 


156  JERUSALEM. 

the  entire  day,  prevented  me  from  going  out  in 
the  forenoon — but  this  circumstance  afforded  me 
the  pleasure  of  a  visit  from  the  Rev.  L.  Righi,  a 
missionary  from  Philadelphia,  U.  S.  A.,  who  was 
returning  from  an  excursion  to  the  Jordan.  We 
were  extremely  happy  to  meet  each  other  in  this 
part  of  Palestine.  He  related  to  me  how,  in  Je- 
rusalem, he  was  obliged  to  obtain  a  peculiar  fac- 
ulty to  go  to  confession  to  Father  Emmanuel,  who 
was  also  a  pilgrim  to  the  Holy  Land,  because 
there  was  no  Priest  in  that  city  who  could  under- 
stand English.  In  the  afternoon,  in  company  with 
Father  Emmanuel,  I  went  to  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  which  is  not  far  from  the  Latin 
convent.  We  entered  it  by  the  only  door  now 
open,  and  the  first  thing  I  saw  was  the  Stone  of 
Unction  where  Our  Redeemer's  body  was  anoint- 
ed for  burial  by  St.  Joseph  of  Arimathea  and 
the  holy  women.  This  was  only  a  private  visit 
to  all  these  holy  places  indicated  to  me  by  the 
good  Father  Emmanuel. \ 

It  is  useless  to  attempt  to  describe  the  feelings 
of  my  heart,  when  in  the  presence  of  these  sacred 
and  dear  localities  ;  especially  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
and  the  place  of  the  Crucifixion.  It  is  impossible 
to  enter  the  tomb  without  a  feeling  of  holy  awe 
and  reverence.  On  this  spot,  for  1500  years, 
kings,  queens,  knights  and  potentates  have  knelt, 
prayed  and  shed  tears  for  their  sins.  How  many 
holy  pilgrims  have  cried  and  sued  for  mercy  on 
this  spot  ?  I  shall  attempt  to  give  brief  descrip- 
tions of  these  places,  so  often  spoken  of  by  travel- 


CHURCH    OF   THE   HOLY    SEPULCHRE.  157 

ers  ;  but  what  passed  within  my  heart  while  I 
was  present  in  them,  God  alone  knows.  I  will  only 
say  that  they  made  on  rne  an  impression  which 
has  never  disappeared  from  my  mind  and  heart, 
and  I  hope  never  will,  not  even  after  death.  If 
there  is  a  spot  on  earth  where  I  would  wish  to 
live  and  die,  it  is  that  land  !  I  resolved  to  visit 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  every  day,  during  my  stay  in 
the  Holy  City.  The  first  Mass  I  celebrated  in 
Jerusalem,  was  upon  Mount  Calvary,  on  the  spot 
where  the  Blessed  Virgin  stood  by  the  Cross  ;  this 
was  on  the  second  morning  after  my  arrival  in  the 
Holy  City./ 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  most 
venerable  sanctuary  in  the  world,  was  partially 
built  by  St.  Helena,  to  cover  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 
but  it  has  been  extended  by  Christian  princes,  so 
as  to  enclose  also  Mount  Calvary,  which  is  only 
fifty  paces  from  the  sepulchre  ;  for  this  reason  the 
church  is  very  irregular  in  its  construction,  form, 
and  order  of  architecture,  owing  to  the  nature 
and  situation  of  the  place  which  it  was  designed 
to  occupy.  It  is  approached  by  a  long  passage, 
through  a  low  door-way,  and  by  descending  two 
flights  of  steps,  the  whole  being  built  in  such  a 
manner,  that  the  Turks  can  not  profane  the  place 
by  riding  in  on  horseback,  or  by  converting  the 
church  into  a  stable.  I  found  this  kind  of  entrance 
to  all  the  churches  of  the  Holy  Land.  In  some, 
the  door  leading  to  the  yard  is  so  narrow  and 
low,  that  it  is  necessary  to  stoop  very  much  in 
order  to  crawl  into  the  yard.  This  church  had  at 


158  JERUSALEM. 

first,  three  doors  ;  but  two  have  been  closed,  and 
at  present,  there  is  only  one  which  is  grand  and 
massive.  The  arch  is  supported  by  fine  pillars,  all 
of  marble.  The  keys  of  the  door  are  cautiously 
kept  by  the  Turks  who  entrust  them  to  no  one  ; 
they  open  and  close  it,  when  they  are  paid  a  fixed 
price,  and,  during  the  time  that  the  church  is 
open,  they  keep  soldiers  inside  the  door  at  the 
entrance  of  the  church,  who,  sitting  or  laying  on 
large  divans,  smoke  their  pipes,  sip  coffee,  and 
keeping  meanwhile,  a  strict  watch  on  the  door. 
Inside  the  church  they  have  a  small  kind  of 
kitchen  to  prepare  their  coffee,  and  during  the 
winter,  they  have  a  coal  fire  to  warm  themselves, 
which  fact  reminded  me  of  the  time  of  the  cap- 
ture of  Our  Saviour,  when  St.  Peter  and  the  ser- 
vants and  officers  stood  warming  themselves  at  a 
fire  of  coal.  I  do  not  know  what  is  to  be  paid  to 
have  the  church  opened,  but  they  have  what  they 
call  great  and  small  openings.  For  the  great 
opening  they  require  a  large  sum  of  money,  and 
they  are  obliged  to  keep  the  church  open  the  en- 
tire day,  and  allow  every  person,  no  matter  to 
what  sect  he  may  belong,  to  go  in  and  out  with- 
out requiring  any  further  payment.  The  small 
opening  is  only  for  individuals,  or  for  a  party, 
and  it  is  kept  open  for  a  limited  time.  When  I 
visited  Jerusalem  it  was  during  the  time  that  the 
French  were  building  the  dome  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  ;  hence  the  Turks  were  obliged  to  keep 
the  door  open  during  the  entire  day.  Soldiers, 
however,  were  watching  it,  and  closing  it  in  the 


STONE    OF   UNCTION.  159 

evening,  and  they  received  no  payment  from 
visitors  and  pilgrims,  unless  they  required  the 
church  to  be  opened  during  the  night.  The  church 
is  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  paces  in  length  (exclusive  of  the  descent 
of  the  discovery  of  the  Holy  Cross)  and  seventy 
in  breadth.  It  has  three  domes,  including  the  one 
in  course  of  construction,  and  covering  the  Holy 
Sepulchre./ 

On  entering  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 
the  first  object  which  comes  in  sight,  is  the  Stone 
of  Unction,  where  the  body  of  Our  Lord  was 
anointed  with  myrrh  and  aloes,  before  it  was 
laid  in  the  sepulchre.  It  has  been  found  neces- 
sary to  cover  this  stone  with  a  slab  of  white 
marble,  on  account  of  the  indiscretion  of  some 
pilgrims,  who  broke  off  some  pieces  of  it ;  and 
to  surround  it  with  an  iron  railing,  lest  people 
should  step  on  it.  This  stone  is  very  near  eight 
feet  in  length,  and  about  two  feet  in  breadth.  Its 
identity  is  acknowledged  by  all  Catholics  and  by 
all  Schismatics.  It  is  surrounded  by  four  lofty 
candlesticks,  and  there  are  eight  lamps  kept  burn- 
ing continually.  There  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence 
attached  to  this  place,  and  it  belongs  to  the  Latins. 
Speaking  of  Palestine,  when  I  say  Latins,  I  mean 
Catholics.  All  the  holy  places  in  the  hands  of  the 
Catholics,  are  kept  by  the  Latins — the  Franciscan 
Friars.  When  I  say  Greeks,  Armenians,  etc.,  I 
mean  the  Schismatics,  unless  I  make  a  special  ex- 
ception. To  the  left  in  an  aisle  in  the  circular 
nave  of  the  sepulchre,  there  is  a  stone  marking 


160  JERUSALEM. 

the  place  where  the  women  and  disciples  stood 
afar  off,  looking  on  the  Crucifixion.  Thirty  paces 
from  the  Stone  of  Unction,  exactly  in  the  centre 
of  the  great  dome,  there  is  the  rich  marble  taber- 
nacle which  encloses  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the 
door  of  which  faces  the  choir,  which  together 
with  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  are  now  in  posses- 
sion of  the  Greeks.  The  tombs  of  the  Hebrews 
face  the  east,  and  they  are  generally  hewn  out  of 
the  rock,  consisting  usually  of  two  chambers,  one 
behind  the  other,  the  inner  one  being  the  actual 
tomb  ;  such  is  the  form  of  the  Sepulchre  of  Our 
Lord.  The  door  of  the  first  chamber  is  outside, 
ornamented  with  burning  lamps,  and  six  huge 
candlesticks  ;  the  door  faces  the  east.  Entering 
the  first  chamber,  called  the  Angel's  Chapel, 
which  is  all  cased  with  fine  marble,  you  see  a 
small  pillar  supporting  a  stone  about  one  foot  and 
a-half  square,  and  *a  foot  thick  ;  this  stone  sup- 
ported the  large  stone  which  closed  the  access  to 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  it  is  from  the  same  rock. 
Upon  this  stone  was  seated  the  Angel,  when  he 
spoke  to  the  two  Marys,  who  went  thither  early 
Sunday  morning,  with  sweet  spices  to  anoint 
Jesus.  The  entrance  to  the  second  chamber- 
that  is  to  the  Sepulchre  of  our  Lord — faces  the 
east  also,  and  is  four  feet  high,  and  two  feet  and 
three  inches  broad  ;  hence  it  is  necessary  to  stoop 
in  order  to  enter  this  inner  chamber,  which  is 
nearly  square,  being  six  feet  less  an  inch  long  ; 
six  feet  less  two  inches  broad,  and,  from  the  floor 
to  the  roof,  eight  feet  and  one  inch.  There  is  no 


THE   HOLY   SEPULCHRE.  161 

sarcophagus,  although  some  ignorant  Protestant 
travelers  have  asserted  the  contrary.  It  was  not 
the  practice  of  the  Hebrews  to  put  their  dead 
into  a  sarcophagus,  but  the  body  was  laid  at  its 
length  upon  a  table,  also  cut  out  of  the  rock.  So 
also  was  the  case  in  the  sepulchre  of  our  Saviour. 
At  the  right,  in  entering  the  second  chamber, 
there  is  seen  a  solid  block  of  the  same  stone 
which  was  left  in  excavating  the  other  part,  and 
it  occupies  half  the  sepulchre  ;  for  it  is  six  feet 
less  one  inch  in  length,  and  three  feet  less  two 
inches  wide  ;  but  it  is  only  two  feet  four  inches 
and  a-half  high.  On  this  table  the  body  of  Jesus 
Christ,  Our  Saviour,  was  laid  with  the  head  to- 
wards the  West,  and  the  feet  to  the  East.  This 
block  has  been  covered  with  a  slab  of  marble, 
which  was  cut  with  a  saw  in  two  unequal  parts, 
except  about  two  inches,  by  which  the  two  parts 
still  hold  together./ 

I  inquired  about  the  motive  of  cutting  that  slab, 
and  I  learned  that  the  Pacha  wanted  the  slab  to 
ornament  some  part  of  his  palace,  not  for  the 
worth  of  the  material,  but  on  account  of  its  being 
a  very  valuable  and  great  monument,  taken  from 
the  Holy  Sepulchre.  During  the  night  preced- 
ing the  day  appointed  for  its  removal,  a  Francis- 
can Friar,  one  of  the  guardians  of  the  Holy  Sep- 
ulchre, sawed  it  in  two,  not  altogether  severing 
the  two  pieces,  but  so  that  if  the  slab  should  be 
removed,  the  two  pieces  would  separate.  In  the 
morning  the  officers  came  to  remove  it,  but  find- 
ing it  so  defaced  they  left  it,  it  being  no  longer 


162  JERUSALEM. 

serviceable  for  their  master  the  Pacha.  Upon 
this  slab  mass  is  celebrated.  | 

The  Greeks  say  the  first  mass  at  midnight,  and 
it  is  always  high  mass,  with  deacon  and  subdea- 
con.  Immediately  after  them,  the  Armenians  go 
through  a  ceremony,  incensing  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
and  occasionally  sing  mass,  but  at  times  they  cel- 
ebrate only  a  low  mass,  yet  they  always  go  through 
a  ceremony  which  lasts  only  a  short  time  and 
which  they  seldom  or  never  omit,  in  order  to  keep 
their  right.  Immediately  after  the  Armenians, 
the  Latins  place  a  movable  altar  on  the  slab, 
which  is  too  low  to  say  mas%  on,  and  they  can 
celebrate  only  two  low  masses,  and  while  these 
are  celebrating,  they  prepare  in  the  space  be- 
tween the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  the  choir  of  the 
Greeks,  what  is  necessary  to  sing  a  high  mass, 
which  is  done  every  day.  The  Greeks  always 
commence  at  midnight,  but  as  they  do  not  always 
finish  at  the  same  time,  the  Latins  have  no  fix- 
ed hour  to  commence  ;  but  they  are  always  duly 
notified  by  the  Greeks  of  the  time  in  which  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  will  be  free,  they  are  always  no- 
tified one  day  in  advance  of  the  precise  hour,  in 
which  the  Holy  Sepulchre  will  be  at  their  dispo- 
sal ;  it  is  generally  at  2  A.  M.,  and  seldom  after  5 
A.  M.  The  Latins  must  commence  immediately,  and 
after  the  high  mass  of  the  Latins,  the  Holy  Sep- 
ulchre must  be  left  free  in  order  to  be  visited  by 
the  pilgrims.\ 

During  the  visit  of  the  pilgrims  to  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  there  is  always  a  Greek  priest,  having 


THE   HOLY   SEPULCHRE.  163 

in  charge  a  bundle  of  candles  of  different  sizes  ; 
when  he  receives  alms  from  the  Christian 
(Schismatics),  he  lights  a  candle  according  to  the 
devotion  of  the  pilgrim.  The  Catholics  do  the 
same,  and  the  Franciscan  Sacristan  from  the  ves- 
try attends  to  them.  I  saw,  at  one  time,  about 
fifty  candles  lighted,  besides  forty-four  lamps  be- 
longing to  different  sects  continually  burning.  I 
do  not  know  how  many  lamps  belong  to  the  Lat- 
ins, but  the  number  is  limited  for  every  different 
sect,  each  one  of  which  takes  charge  of  its  own 
lamps.  The  different  sects  watch  each  other  with 
great  jealousy,  and  one  does  not  allow  the  other 
to  suspend  more  lamps  than  the  usual  number,  not 
alone  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  but  in  any  part  of 
the  church,  except  those  places  belonging  exclu- 
sively to  the  different  sects.  In  sweeping  the 
floor  of  the  church,  they  have  divided  it,  a  j3art  to 
each  sect,  and  woe  to  that  priest  or  lay  brother 
who  in  sweeping  should  encroach  on  another  part. 
Three  holes  have  been  made  in  the  roof  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  for  the  emission  of  the  smoke. 
There  is  a  painting  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  rep- 
resenting the  resurrection  of  Our  Saviour.  There 
is  a  Plenary  Indulgence  to  be  gained  here,  toties 
quoties,  and  it  is  the  only  Indulgence  attached  to 
the  place  which  is  applicable  to  the  souls  of  Pur- 
gatory, i 

I  went  to  the  Latin  chapel,  which  is  north  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre.  On  the  floor  of  the  chapel, 
near  the  altar,  there  is  a  large  marble  flag  point- 
ing out  the  spot  in  which  our  Saviour,  after  his 


164  JERUSALEM. 

resurrection,  appeared,  as  tradition  assures  us,  to 
His  Blessed  Mother  ;  hence  it  is  called  the  Chapel 
of  the  Apparition.  This  is  the  choir  of  the  Fran- 
ciscans, and  in  this  chapel  they  officiate.  The 
spot,  where  the  altar  is  located,  is  considered  to  be 
the  place  where  the  cross,  found  by  St.  Helena  in 
another  locality,  was  recognized.  In  this  chapel, 
there  are  some  very  fine  paintings.  There  is  also 
an  altar,  on  the  epistle  side,  having  the  greatest 
part  of  the  pillar  to  which  Our  Lord  was  bound 
for  the  flagellation.  It  was  removed  from  Pilate's 
Hall,  and  it  is  enclosed  in  a  shrine,  in  which  there 
is  an  opening,  through  which  it  can  be  seen  and 
touched,  and,  for  the  convenience  of  pilgrims, 
there  is  a  rod  with  which  it  can  be  easily  touch- 
ed without  the  necessity  of  stepping  on  a  stool. 
Every  one  can  visit  and  venerate  all  the  sacred 
places  in  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  no 
matter  to  what  sect  they  belong.\ 

The  Kussians  can  not  satisfy  their  devotion  un- 
less they  touch  the  object  of  their  veneration  ; 
hence  tbe  necessity  of  providing  a  rod,  which  the 
Russians  take  in  their  hands  and  touch  with  it  the 
sacred  relic.  Yet,  far  from  accusing  them  of  su- 
perstition, I  believe  that  they  are  in  good  faith. 
I  have  been  greatly  edified  by  the  manner  in 
which  the  Russians  practice  their  devotions. 
They  come  from  far  distant  places,  enduring 
hardships  and  privations  to  perform  a  pilgrimage 
to  the  Holy  Sepulchre  l\ 

I  joined  the  daily  processions  which  the  Fran- 
ciscans, followed  by  the  pilgrims,  perform  through 


THE   PILGRIMS7    PROCESSION.  165 

all  the  stations  of  the  church  ;  if  there  are  no  pil- 
grims, they  make  the  procession  by  themselves. 
I  was  presented  with  a  station  book  and,  this  be- 
ing the  first  time  that  I,  as  a  pilgrim,  had  joined 
the  procession,  I  was  presented  with  a  large  light- 
ed candle,  which  I  keep  yet ;  the  other  pilgrims, 
who  had  been  present  at  other  processions  receiv- 
ed small  tapers.  One  of  the  Fathers  carried 
the  cross,  followed  by  all  the  Friars  with  lighted 
tapers  ;  then  the  celebrant  and,  afterwards,  all 
the  pilgrims  in  a  mass.  A  hymn  is  sung  on  the 
way  to  each  station,  and  appropriate  versicles  and 
prayers  are  chanted  at  each  spot,  which  is  incensed 
by  the  celebrant.x 

The  first  station  is  the  pillar,  where  there  is  a 
Plenary  Indulgence  attached.  The  second  is  the 
prison,  which,  now  is  almost  subterranean,  by  the 
accumulation  of  rubbish  ;  here  a  Partial  Indul- 
gence is  obtainable.  In  this  prison  Our  Lord  was 
confined,  while  the  hole  was  made  for  erecting  a 
cross,  and  the  two  other  crosses  were  being  pre- 
pared, and  as  Golgotha  was  an  ordinary. place  of 
execution,  this  cell  was  a  common  prison  for  all 
criminals.  It  is  a  small  vaulted  chapel  seven  feet 
long  by  six  wide.  This  chapel  is  near  and  oppo- 
site to  Mount  Calvary — a  hill  towards  the  south. 
This  chapel  belongs  to  the  Georgians  and  there  is 
a  Partial  Indulgence  attached  to  it.  The  third 
station  is  a  chapel  on  the  spot  where  our  Lord  was 
stripped  of  His  garments  by  the  soldiers,  arid 
where  they  cast  lots,  dividing  them  amongst  them- 
selves ;  a  Partial  Indulgence  can  here  be  gain- 


166  JERUSALEM. 

ed.  This  chapel  is  within  twenty  yards  of  Calva- 
ry, on  the  north-east,  and  is  now  in  the  eastern- 
most chapel  of  the  retro-choir,  occupied  by  the 
Armenians,  to  whom  the  chapel  belongs.  The 
fourth  is  the  Crypt  of  the  Invention  of  the  Holy 
Cross  by  the  Empress,  St.  Helena.  We  descend- 
ed into  it,  first  by  a  long  flight  of  thirty  steps  dug 
out  of  the  rock,  which  led  us  into  a  cave^called  St. 
Helena's  chapel,  because  she  prayed  in  this  place 
while  she  caused  search  to  be  made  in  order  to 
find  the  Holy  Cross  ;  and  then,  by  another  flight 
of  eleven  steps  to  the  Crypt  in  which  St.  Helena 
miraculously  found  the  cross,  the  nails,  the  crown 
of  thorns,  and  the  head  of  the  spear,  after  these 
had  lain  buried  in  this  place  upward  of  three  hun- 
dred years.  This  chapel  belongs  to  the  Latins 
and  there  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence  attached  to 
it.  On  the  Gospel  side  of  the  principal  altar, 
there  is  another  altar  erected  by  Maximilian, 
Emperor  of  Mexico,  who  performed  a  pilgrimage 
in  Palestine.  He  made  the  stations  of  the  Way 
of  the  Cross  publicly  on  his  knees,  in  the  Via 
Dolorosa  and  gave  great  edification  by  his  piety 
and  devotion.  He  died  in  Mexico  like  a  hero  of 
charity  and  magnanimity,  scorning  the  treachery 
of  Napoleon  III.  and  the  brutality  of  the  savage 
Juarez  \ 

We  returned  then  to  St.  Helena's  crypt  again, 
where  we  made  the  fifth  station  ;  here  there  is  a 
Plenary  Indulgence  ;  this  chapel  belongs  to  the 
Armenians.  We  ascended  the  staircase  and, 
near  the  top  turning  towards  Mount  Calvary,  we 


MOUNT   CALVARY.  167 

made  the  sixth  station  at  the  chapel  of  the  pillar  of 
the  improperia.  Under  the  altar  of  this  chapel, 
there  is  a  pillar  of  gray  marble  spotted  with 
black,  two  feet  long  and  one  in  diameter  ;  on  this 
pillar  Our  Lord  was  forced  to  sit,  in  the 
palace  of  Herod,  in  order  to  be  crowned  with 
thorns,  whilst  being  set  at  nought  by  the  soldiers 
of  Herod.  This  pillar  was  removed  from  Herod's 
palace  to  this  chapel  which  is  located  on  the 
southern  side  of  the  retro-choir.  This  chapel  be- 
longs to  the  Abyssinians,  and  there  is  a  Partial 
Indulgence  attached  to  it./ 

Ten  paces  from  this  chapel,  westward,  we 
ascended  Mount  Calvary  by  a  narrow  staircase  of 
twenty  steps,  of  wood  at  the  beginning,  and  of 
stone  at  the  end.  This  spot  of  ignominy,  sancti- 
fied by  the  blood  of  Our  Lord,  attracted  the  pecu- 
liar attention  of  the  primitive  Christians.  They 
surrounded  it  with  a  wall,  after  having  removed 
every  impurity  and  all  the  earth  ;  it  is  now  a  lof- 
ty chapel  enclosed  within  this  spacious  church. 
The  interior  is  cased  with  marble,  and  a  row  of 
arches  divides  it  in  two,  south  and  north.  The 
seventh  station  is  performed  in  the  north  part 
where  Our  Saviour  was  nailed  to  the  cross.  This 
place  belongs  to  the  Latins  and  there  is  a  Partial 
Indulgence  attached.  Near  this  spot,  on  the  same 
line  with  the  site,  where  the  cross  stood,  the  Lat- 
ins have  an  elegant  altar  of  finely  worked  bronze 
and  silver.  This  is  to  be  replaced  by  another 
beautiful  marble  altar  ;  yet  in  my  opinion,  and  in 
the  opinion  of  some  others  too,  the  old  bronze  al- 


168  JERUSALEM. 

tar  is  too  good  to  be  surpassed  by  a  marble  one. 
On  this  place,  thirty  lamps  are  kept  continually 
burning.  The  eighth  station  is  on  the  spot  where 
the  cross  was  erected,  which  is  on  the  southern 
division,  and  it  belongs  to  the  Greeks.  There  is 
a  Plenary  Indulgence  attached.  You  still  see  the 
hole  dug  in  the  rock,  one  foot  and  a-half  deep,  be- 
sides the  earth  which  must  have  been  removed 
from  this  place.  Oar  Saviour  stood  facing  the 
west,  having  his  back  towards  Jerusalem  ;  the 
two  thieves  stood,  the  penitent  on  his  right,  and 
the  un penitent  on  his  left.  Fifty  lamps  are  con- 
stantly burning  on  this  spot.i 

During  the  daily  procession,  the  Latins  incense 
this  altar,  although  it  belongs  to  the  Greeks,  who 
are  also  allowed  to  incense  any  altar  belonging 
to  the  Latins.  This  altar  is  erected  just  over  the 
hole  that  supported  the  cross  of  Our  Saviour. 
This  is  now  lined  with  a  silver  socket.  A  large 
cross,  of  the  same  size  of  the  true  cross,  is  erected 
over  the  altar  ;  one-third  part  of  this  cross  is  a 
portion  of  the  true  cross  found  by  St.  Helena. 
Through  a  silver  grating  a  rent  in  the  rock  is  vis- 
ible, which  was  done  in  that  awful  moment  when 
the  Divine  sacrifice  was  accomplished  for  the  re- 
demption of  man.  In  the  chapel  below,  where 
is  the  tomb  of  Melchisedech,  the  same  cleft  or 
rent  is  much  more  plainly  visible, \ 

We  descended  to  the  Stone  of  Unction,  where 
we  performed  the  ninth  station,  and  where  a 
Plenary  Indulgence  can  be  obtained.  We  made 
the  tenth  at  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  to  which  place  a 


STATIONS    IN   THE    HOLY    SEPULCHRE.  169 

% 

Plenary  Indulgence  is  attached,  applicable  to  the 
souls  of  Purgatory.  In  the  midway,  between  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  and  the  Latin  chapel,  we  per- 
formed the  eleventh  station  on  the  spot  where  Our 
Saviour  appeared  to  Mary  Magdalen  in  the  form 
of  a  gardener.  This  place  belongs  to  the  Latins, 
and  there  is  a  Partial  Indulgence  attached  to  it. 
The  twelfth  and  last  station  was  in  the  Latin 
chapel,  on  the  spot  where  Our  Saviour  appeared 
to  the  Blessed  Virgin,  and  here  a  Partial  Indul- 
gence can  be  gained.  Here  they  sing  the  Litany, 
accompanied  by  a  melodeon,  and  the  Benediction 
of  the  Blessed  Sacrament  is  given,  closing  the 
sacred  ceremonies./ 

Besides  these  spots,  the  Franciscan  Friars,  who 
are  the  keepers  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  of  all 
the  holy  places  in  Palestine,  Syria,  and  of  the 
East  in  general,  and  who  have  made  many  heroic 
sacrifices  to  watch  the  sacred  spot,  sanctified  by 
Our  Saviour  in  the  redemption  of  man,  have  an 
altar  close  to  the  place  where  Our  Saviour  ap- 
peared to  Mary  Magdalen,  and  another,  upon 
Mount  Calvary,  on  the  spot  where  the  Blessed 
Virgin  stood  by  the  Cross./ 

The  Franciscans  also  preserve,  in  the  vestry  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  sword  and  spurs  of  God- 
frey of  Bouillon,  which  I  have  seen  and  held  in 
my  hands.  The  Superior  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 
has  the  right  to  invest  persons  with  the  Order  of 
the  Knighthood  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  ;  a  cere- 
mony which  he  performs  in  the  Latin  Chapel  of 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  dressed  in 
H.— 11 


170  JERUSALEM. 

pontifical  habits,  saying  or  singing  some  prayers, 
and  going  through  a  formula  of  questions,  and 
putting  the  spurs  and  sword  of  Godfrey  of  Bouil- 
lon, on  the  person  to  be  invested./ 

The  Greeks  officiate  in  the  choir  ;  in  the  mid- 
dle of  which  there  is  a  small  circle  of  marble,  the 
centre  of  which  they  look  upon  as  the  centre  of 
the  world,  or  of  the  globe.  The  Copts  have  a 
small  oratory  back  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  The 
Nestorians  or  Jacobites,  have  a  small  chapel 
near  the  spot  where  our  Lord  appeared  to  Mary 
Magdalen.  The  Georgians  have  a  place  on  Mount 
Calvary  where  the  cross  was  prepared.  The 
Maronites,  being  Catholics,  use  the  same  places 
with  the  Latins.  The  Syrians  have  an  Altar 
nearly  opposite  to  that  of  the  Copts.  Besides 
these  localities,  which  all  those  who  are  in  the 
church,  are  allowed  to  visit,  each  nation  has  a 
particular  spot  allotted  to  it  there,  in  the  aisles 
and  corners  of  the  same,  where  its  members  meet 
to  exercise  their  devotions  according  to  their  re- 
spective rituals.  The  Latins  have  the  gallery  of 
the  church,  where  they  have  a  fine  organ.  No 
other  nation  make  use  of  any  instrument,  except 
the  Armenians,  who  use  a  kind  of  large  clapper 
instead  of  a  bell,  just  like  that  which  we  use  in 
the  tenebrae  during  three  days  of  the  Holy 
"Week  when  bells  are  not  allowed  to  ring.  There 
are  no  bells  in  this  church  except  a  little  one  in 
the  hospice  of  the  Latins  ;  yet  there  are  ruins  of 
a  half  demolished  belfry,  which  indicate  that 
formerly  the  church  had  bells.  The  hospice  is 


ADDOLORATA'S  CHAPEL.  171 

accessible  only  through  their  chapel ;  there  is  no 
other  entrance./ 

On  the  top  of  the  Latin  Convent,  the  Turks 
have  built  stables  for  their  horses.  The  Latins, 
however,  have  been  allowed  to  erect  a  chapel  on 
the  site  of  Calvary,  where  the  Blessed  Virgin 
stood  when  the  Jews  were  crucifying  her  Divine 
Son.  This  chapel  is  called  the  Addolorata's 
Chapel ;  it  is  out  of  the  church,  but  it  is  attached 
to  its  wall,  and  through  an  opening,  the  spot 
where  Our  Saviour  was  crucified,  and  the  spot 
where  the  cross  was  erected,  are  visible.  There 
is  a  Plenary  Indulgence  attached,  and  Mass  is  said 
every  day  by  a  Keligious  from  St.  Saviour  ;  these 
can  say  as  many  Masses  as  they  please,  and  at 
any  time./ 

The  Fathers,  Latin,  Greek,  Armenian,  etc., 
both  Catholic  and  Schismatic,  are  obliged  to  stay 
shut  up  in  the  church  or  hospices,  and  corners  of 
the  building  allotted  to  them.  There  is  a  small 
window  crossed  with  iron  bars,  through  which 
they  receive  their  daily  food.  Every  three  months 
the  community  must  be  changed — they  could 
scarcely  remain  longer  there  without  becoming 
sick,  on  account  of  the  dampness  and  coldness 
produced  -by  the  vaults  and  walls  ;  besides  the 
little  air  and  the  confinement.  Before  they  leave, 
other  Priests  are  sent  from  the  large  convent  of 
St.  Saviour,  to  take  the  place  of  those  who  are  to 
leave.  These  self-sacrificing  priests  of  various 
orders,  inhabit  different  parts  of  the  edifice. 
They  nestle  like  pigeons  in  the  arches  above,  and 


172  JERUSALEM. 

in  the  subterranean  vaults.  They  are  prisoners  of 
the  Turks  in  order  to  guard  the  Sepulchre  of 
Christ.  Their  songs,  hymns,  arid  psalms,  are 
heard  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  and  night :  the 
solemn  notes  of  the  organ  of  the  Latins  ;  their 
imposing,  grave,  and  distinct  voices,  reciting  the 
complaints  just  at  the  setting  of  the  sun,  by  the 
side  of  the  Sepulchre  of  Christ.  "  Nunc  dimittis 
servum  tuum,  Domine,  secundum  verbum  tuum,  in 
pace."  Then  in  a  solemn  manner  pronouncing, 
"  In  manus  tuas  Domine  commendo  spiritum 
meum"  in  sight  of  the  very  spot,  where  on 
that  eventful  afternoon  the  Son  of  God  recommend- 
ed His  Spirit  to  His  Eternal  Father,  uttering  from 
the  Cross  those  very  memorable  words  after  hav- 
ing accomplished  his  tremendous  Sacrifice.  When 
kneeling  before  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  in  a  devout 
and  simple  tone  of  voice,  they  were  repeating 
the  prayer,  "  Domine  Jesu  Christe,  qui  in  hora 
diei  vespertina,  de  cruce  depositus,  in  brachiis 
dulcissimae  matris  tuae  reclinatus  fuisti,  horaque 
ultima  in  hoc  sanctissimo  monumento  corpus  tuum 
examine  contulisti,  etc."  All  this  had  such  an 
effect  on  my  soul  that  it  was  impossible  for  me  to 
refrain  from  shedding  tears.  The  impression  it 
made  on  me  I  can  never  forget.  Oh  !  that  it  were 
granted  to  me,  to  spend  there  the  last  days  of  my 
life,  and  to  be  allowed  to  rest  under  the  shade  of 
Sion.x 

This  church  naturally  generates  devotion  by  the 
sombre  light  which  pervades  every  corner  of  it ;  the 
multitude  of  lamps  have  a  mysterious  effect.  The 


GODFREY   DE   BOUILLON.  173 

organ  of  the  Latins,  the  cymbals  of  the  Abyssinian 
Priest,  the  mournful  prayer  of  the  solitary  Arme- 
nian, the  voice  of  the  Greek  caloyer,  the  plain- 
tive accents  of  the  Coptic  Friar,  and  the  mysteri- 
ous ancient  notes  of  the  grave  Syrian,  separately 
and  altogether,  continually  resound,  at  every  hour 
of  the  day  and  night,  in  the  ears  of  the  pilgrim. 
It  is  impossible  'o  attempt  to  describe  the  feelings 
which  are  produced  on  the  mind  in  that  mysteri- 
ous sanctuary.  How  true  is  that  which  the  Pro- 
phet said,  "  Omnes  gentes  adorabunt . . .  et  sepulc- 
rum  ejus  erit  gloriosum  "  ("  all  nations  will  adore 
Him, . . .  and  His  sepulchre  shall  be  glorious.")  \ 

Besides  these  places,  there  are  other  monu- 
ments of  great  value  in  this  famous  church.  The 
Latins  have  in  their  hospice  the  room  formerly 
occupied  by  St.  Helena,  and  it  is  the  best  room  in 
the  hospice.  Before  reaching  the  Chapel  of  the 
Division  of  the  Garments,  there  is  another  chapel 
dedicated  to  Longinus  the  Centurion,  who  with  a 
spear,  opened  the  sacred  side  of  Our  Lord.  Oppo- 
site to  the  entrance  against  the  wall  of  the  choir, 
there  are  the  tombs  of  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  and 
his  brother  Baldwin,  the  noble  royal  chevaliers 
who  wrested  the  tomb  of  Our  Lord  from  the  hands 
of  the  infidels.  Their  ashes  deserve  to  rest  be- 
neath the  shadow  of  that  tomb  which  they  rescued. 
On  the  west  side  of  the  nave,  there  are  the  tombs 
of  Joseph  of  Arimathea  and  his  family,  who  hav- 
ing deposited  the  Sacred  Body  of  Our  Saviour  in 
his  own  new  tomb,  was  himself  buried  in  another 
tomb  not  far  off  from  that  of  Our  Lord.  Under 


174  JERUSALEM. 

the  staircase  leading  up  to  Mount  Calvary,  there 
are  what  they  call  the  Chapel  and  Sepulchre  of 
Adam,  and  the  Chapel  and  Tomb  of  Melchisedech.\ 

In  order  to  conceive  a  clear  idea  of  the  Church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  it  is  necessary  to  remark 
that  originally  Calvary  was  out  of  the  city  ;  it 
was  a  hill  where  criminals  were  crucified,  and  the 
side  of  this  hill  was  used  as  a  garden,  and  bury- 
ing ground.  Hence,  Joseph  of  Arimathea,  pos- 
sessed these  tombs  for  himself  and  family,  and 
when  Our  Lord  after  His  Resurrection,  appeared 
to  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  He  was  taken  by  her  for  a 
gardener,  which  is  a  confirmation  that  gardens 
existed  on  Mount  Calvary.  Now-a-days,  criminals 
are  executed  on  a  hill,  close  to  the  gate  of  Jaffa, 
out  of  the  city,  and  in  the  valley  of  Jehosaphat, 
which  is  nothing  else  but  a  cemetery,  there  are 
many  kitchen  gardens.  The  Cross,  Spear,  etc., 
were  found  by  St.  Helena,  in  a  cave  beneath  the 
hill,  thrown  thither  by  the  Jews  ;  but  I  believe 
that  the  disciples  of  Our  Saviour  had  concealed 
them  there  in  order  to  preserve  them.\ 

The  author  of  the  Epitome  Bellorum  Domini, 
asserts  that,  forty-six  years  after  the  destruction 
of  Jerusalem  by  Yespasian  and  Titus,  the  Chris- 
tians obtained  permission  of  Adrian  to  build,  or 
rather  re-build  a  church  over  the  Tomb  of  their 
God  (Our  Saviour),  and  to  enclose  in  the  new  city 
other  places  venerated  by  them.  St.  Jerome  and 
other  historians  record,  that  Pagans  afterwards 
had  surrounded  these  sacred  places  with  walls, 
and  they  had  erected  a  statue  of  Jupiter  upon  the 


CHURCH    OF   THE    HOLY    SEPULCHRE.  175 

Tomb  of  Our  Lord,  another  of  Venus  on  Mount 
Calvary,  and  a  grove  to  Adonis,  on  the  spot  where 
our  Saviour  was  born.  Eusebius  has  preserved  a 
letter  of  Constantine  the  Great,  in  which  he  com- 
manded Macarius,  Bishop  of  Jerusalem,  to  erect 
a  church  on  the  place  where  the  great  mystery  of 
salvation  was  accomplished.\ 

The  architecture  of  the  church  as  it  stands  now 
is  evidently  of  the  age  of  Constantine.  The  col- 
umns are  either  too  heavy  or  too  slender,  and 
their  diameter  is  not  proportionate  to  their 
height ;  yet  the  Corinthian  order  prevails  through- 
out. Some  double  columns  supporting  the  frieze 
of  the  choir  are  very  handsome.  The  church  be- 
ing lofty  and  spacious,  is  truly  a  large  building. 
It  displays  grandeur,  but  I  could  not  say  beauty 
—this  it  could  not  do  on  account  of  its  locality 
and  object.  The  Bishop  of  Caesar ea  describes  the 
new  church,  the  dedication  of  which  occupied 
eight  days.  Some  pretend  that  this  edifice  was 
erected  by  the  Crusaders,  but  we  do  not  know  that 
the  Crusaders  ever  built  a  church  on  the  Holy 
Sepulchre.  They  may  have  repaired  and  im- 
proved that  constructed  by  St.  Helena,  but  the 
church  as  it  stands  belongs  to  the  time  of  Con- 
stantine. \ 

Three  hundred  years  after  its  erection,  this 
church  was  ravaged  by  Cosroe  II.,  King  of  Persia. 
Heraclius  recovered  the  genuine  cross,  and  Mo- 
destus,  Bishop  of  Jerusalem,  repaired  the  church. 
When  the  Caliph  Omar  took  Jerusalem,  he  allow- 
ed Christians  the  free  exercise  of  their  religion. 


176  JERUSALEM. 

The  church  was  again  ravaged  by  Hakem,  Sove- 
reign of  Egypt,  in  1009.  The  Crusaders  took 
possession  of  it  in  1099,  but  it  fell  again  into  the 
hands  of  the  Mohammedans  and,  unfortunately, 
they  possess  it  yet.v 

One  rainy  day,  I  went  to  visit  the  church  and 
I  found  the  Holy  Sepulchre  flooded  with  rain  from 
the  cupola  which  was  not  yet  finished.  'It  will 
take  another  entire  year  to  complete  it.  Over 
forty  years  ago  the  lead  of  the  old  cupola  began 
to  peel  off.  The  Greeks  applied  for  a  firman  to 
repair  it.  If  they  had  succeeded,  as  they  have 
done  in  many  instances,  the  Greeks  would  have 
claimed  the  exclusive  possession  of  the  Holy  Sep- 
ulchre. The  Catholics  obtained  a  counter -fir- 
man to  prevent  the  Greeks  from  repairing  it. 
This  is  the  reason  why  the  Greeks  throw  the 
blame  on  the  Catholics.  Finally,  it  was  arranged 
that  France,  Russia,  and  Turkey  should  rebuild 
the  cupola  ;  each  of  the  three  nations  paying  its 
quota  of  the  expense.  The  work  on  the  cupola 
was  done  by  the  French.  They  worked  the  ma- 
terials in  France  and  carried  them  to  Jerusalem. 
Its  whole  cost  amounts  to  several  millions .\ 

I  saw,  in  the  door  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the 
two  holes  through  which  the  Greek  patriarch 
pushed  out  the  "  miraculous  fire  "  on  the  Holy 
Saturday  of  the  Greeks.  The  patriarch  who  per- 
formed this  blasphemous,  superstitious,  and  wicked 
imposition  upon  the  ignorant  Greek  clergy  and 
people,  had  died  a  few  days  before  my  arrival  in 
Jerusalem.  The  presence  of  the  French  consul 


THE    "  MIRACULOUS    FIRE."  177 

^ 

and  wife  at  his  funeral,  sitting  in  the  choir  of  the 
Greeks  amongst  their  clergy  and  receiving,  sev- 
eral times,  incense  from  their  hands,  gave  much 
dissatisfaction,  scandal,  and  just  matter  of  com- 
plaint to  the  Catholics.  The  "miraculous  fire'7  is 
performed  in  this  manner  :  at  2  p.  M.,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  all  the  Greek  pilgrims  and  many  others, 
including  the  consuls  and  the  Pacha,  who  is  seated 
in  the  gallery  of  the  Latins,  drinking  coffee  and 
smoking  his  pipe,  the  patriarch,  a  venerable  look- 
ing man,  accompanied  by  two  deacons  and  in  pro- 
cession, comes  out  of  the  choir  and,  after  twice 
making  the  circuit  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  is 
stripped  of  his  garments,  enters  the  Holy  Sepul- 
chre, and  closes  the  door.  Amid  a  great  tumult 
and  a  universal  shout,  the  fire  is  thrust  out  of  the 
two  holes  made  for  this  purpose,  on  either  side  of 
the  door  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  in  pierced  tin 
globes  with  handles.  The  men  who  receive  it 
hasten  to  light  large  flambeaus,  and  they  carry  it 
to  Bethlehem,  and  to  every  Greek  convent,  and 
all  the  pilgrims  light  candles.  The  patriarch 
rushes  out  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  with  a  lighted 
torch  in  each  hand,  making  gestures  as  if  under 
divine  inspiration,  and  goes  into  the  choir. \ 

The  patriarch,  bishops,  and  higher  clergy,  say 
that  they  do  not  pretend  it  to  be  a  miracle,  yet 
the  ignorant  clergy  and  people  in  good  faith  be- 
lieve it  to  be  a  supernatural  fire,  either  brought 
down  from  heaven  or  produced  miraculously  by 
the  patriarch  ;  but,  neither  he  nor  the  bishops 
contradict  this  superstition  of  the  people.  They 


178  JERUSALEM. 

allege  that  they  do  not  dare  to  instruct  the  people 
on  this  subject,  because  their  faith  and  confidence 
would  be  shaken.  For  the  rest,  except  the  patri- 
arch and  bishops,  the  lower  clergy  appear  to  be 
in  good  faith.x 

I  have  been  present  at  the  pontificals  of  the 
Greeks,  Armenians,  Copts,  etc.,  and  their  cere- 
monies have  been  performed  with  gravity  and 
decorum,  what  may  have  been  said  by  others  to 
the  contrary,  notwithstanding.  I  know  the  ridic- 
ulous stories  which  have  been  related  about  them 
by  travelers  and  some  writers,  but,  in  my  own 
experience,  T  have  always  been  edified  by  them. 
On  the  night  preceding  the  Christmas  of  the  Ar- 
menians. I  was  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  wit- 
nessed the  solemn  pontifical  mass  of  the  patriarch, 
and  I  distinctly  heard,  word  for  word,  the  canon 
of  the  mass.  It  may  be  that  some  Greek  bishop 
or  patriarch  had  not  been  very  particular  or  dig- 
nified ;  but  we  should  not,  therefore,  come  to  the 
conclusion  that,  in  the  Greek  Church,  the  ceremo- 
nies are  not  performed  in  a  proper  manner.  I 
remarked  in  their  countenances  a  mild  simplicity 
and  piety.  If  the  Greeks  were  present  in  our 
churches  and  heard  some  one  of  our  bishops  not 
pronouncing  the  Latin  words  in  a  proper  manner, 
in  the  pontifical  or  in  the  low  mass,  without  dig- 
nity in  the  ceremonies,  showing  no  piety  or  devo- 
tion, but  only  displaying  a  gorgeous  pride  or  an 
air  of  importance — could  the  Greek  come  to  a 
conclusion  that,  in  the  Latin  Church,  the  sacred 
ceremonies  are  performed  carelessly  and  only 


VIA    DOLOROSA.  179 

through  pride  ?  Certainly  not,  So,  we  can  not 
come  to  this  conclusion  in  regard  to  the  Greeks 
and  other  Oriental  Schismatic  sects.  We  must 
not  be  severe  against  our  separated  brethren  or 
provoke  their  indignation  by  uncharitableness  or 
spiteful  feelings,  but  we  should  compassionate 
them  in  their  misfortune.  We  ought  only  to 
pray  for  their  union  to  the  Mother  Church  of 
Rome.  I  left  the  East  favorably  impressed  con- 
cerning the  good  faith  and  piety  of  the  Schismatics. 
I  have  seen  the  pilgrims,  coming  from  the  north- 
ern part  of  Russia,  performing  their  devotions  in 
Jerusalem  in  good  earnest.  I  have  seen  them 
walking  on  foot  to  the  Jordan  and,  after  plunging 
three  times  in  that  river  in  honor  of  the  Holy 
Trinity,  returning  to  Jerusalem  under  a  very 
heavy  and  drenching  rain.  I  have  seen  men  and 
women  of  them  soaked  with  rain,  full  of  mud, 
leaning  on  their  staves,  hardly  able  to  walk. 
These  poor  creatures  moved  me  to  compassion. 
I  have  seen  the  Armenian  priests  performing, 
faithfully  their  sacred  ceremonies,  and  singing 
mass  at  midnight  when  the  church  was  uncomfort- 
ably cold  and  the  night  stormy.  I  was  assured 
that  they  do  so  every  night  in  the  year.  If  they 
say  no  mass,  they  use  the  Prce-sanctificatum.\ 

The  Via  Dolorosa  is  the  way  by  which  Our  Sa- 
viour, loaded  with  the  cross,  passed  from  the  res- 
idence of  Pilate  to  Calvary.  It  is  about  one  mile 
long.  The  place  where  our  Saviour  was  scourg- 
ed is  now  separated  from  the  Prcetorium  of  Pilate. 
A  street  passes  between  them.  The  house  of  Pon- 


180  JERUSALEM. 

this  Pilate  was  formerly  turned  into  a  Latin 
church  ;  but,  at  present,  it  is  occupied  by  the 
Turkish  troops.  It  is  situated  on  Mount  Acra.  The 
steps  of  this  house  have  been  removed  to  Rome 
and  are  known  as  the  Scala  Sancta.  There  is  a 
Plenary  Indulgence  attached  to  this  house,  and 
another  to  the  church  of  the  Flagellation  across 
the  street.  This  church  belongs  to  the  Latins. 
A  costly  marble  altar  has  been  erected  on  the 
spot  where  our  Saviour  was  scourged.  The 
church  is  small  and  neat,  and  it  has  three  marble 
altars  ;  mass  is  celebrated  in  it  every  day.  Here 
is  the  commencement  of  the  Via  Dolorosa.  This 
present  street,  however,  is  several  yards  above 
the  old  one,  the  rubbish  of  the  ruins  of  the  city 
having  raised  it ;  and  it  must  have  been  former- 
ly many  yards  below  Mount  Calvary .\ 

Christ,  having  been  scourged  and  crowned  with 
thorns,  was  presented  to  the  people  from  the 
Lithostrostos,  which  is  a  kind  of  balcony  over  an 
arch  spanning  the  two  sides  of  the  street.  This  is 
yet  visible,  and  there  is  a  small  room  built  upon 
the  arch,  which  has  been  repaired  by  the  Chris- 
tians. From  this  place  Pilate  presented  our  Sa- 
viour to  the  people,  saying,  "  Ecce  Homo  /" 
Here  he  washed  his  hands.  It  was  once  in  posses- 
sion of  the  Turks,  but  I  understand  that  the  Abbe 
Ratisbona,  who  built  a  church  and  the  nunnery 
of  Sion,  on  the  right  side  of  the  Via  Dolorosa,  has 
purchased,  also,  the  Lithostrostos.  A  Plenary 
Indulgence  can  be  gained  by  passing  under  this 
arch  and  saying  the  Pater,  Ave  and  Gloria.\ 


"OUR   LADY   OF   GRIEF."  181 

«, 

The  palace  of  Herod,  the  Tetrarch,  was  situated 
on  the  Via  Dolorosa,  close  to  the  Church  of  the 
Sisters  of  Sion.  At  present  this  palace  is  in  ru- 
ins. Formerly,  there  was  a  church  here  ;  now 
there  is  none.  There  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence  at- 
tached to  this  place.  It  is  on  Mount  Abisade, 
called  also  Bezeta.  A  little  further  on  is  the  chap- 
el of  lt  Our  Lady  of  Grief/'  on  the  spot  on  which 
the  Blessed  Yirgin  met  her  Divine  Son  loaded 
with  the  cross,  and  going  unto  Mount  Calvary.  The 
Turks  had  turned  this  chapel  into  a  bathing-room, 
but  now  it  is  in  possession  of  the  Armenian  Cath- 
olics. Here,  it  is  believed,  is  the  lane  through 
which  the  Blessed  Yirgin  and  St.  John  came  to 
meet  Our  Saviour  when  they  heard  that  He  was 
going  unto  Golgotha.  Here  a  Partial  Indulgence 
can  be  gained.y 

The  three  places  where  Our  Saviour  fell,  are 
marked  by  as  many  pillars  on  the  street,  two  laid 
down  on  the  ground,  another  standing  up  on  the 
wall  of  a  house.  This  last  spot  on  the  wall  is 
kissed  by  the  pilgrims,  but  the  mean  wicked 
Turks  spit  upon  it.  I  have  seen  this  spot  soiled 
with  spittle.  The  house  of  St.  Veronica,  who 
wiped  the  sacred  face  of  our  Saviour,  opens  on 
the  Via  Dolor  osa.  The  name  of  St.  Veronica 
was  Berenice.  A  Partial  Indulgence  can  be  gained 
here,  as  also,  can  be  at  each  place  where  Our 
Saviour  fell  under  the  weight  of  the  cross.  Fifty 
paces  further  is  the  spot  where  Simon  the  Cyre- 
nian  coming  from  his  villa,  met  Our  Saviour  and 
was  compelled  to  carry  the  Cross  of  Jesus.x 


182  JERUSALEM. 

The  road  which,  up  to  this  point,  runs  east  and 
west,  here  makes  an  angle  and  turns  to  the  north, 
and  the  street  becomes  more  steep  ;  this  angle  is 
met  by  the  street  through  which  Simon  came, 
and  this  street  leads  to  the  gate  of  Damascus, 
called  Bab-el-Hamond,  or  Bab-el-cham  (the  gate 
of  the  Column),  from  which  gate  Simon  the  Gy re- 
man was  coming.  Here  a  Partial  Indulgence 
can  be  gained. \ 

About  two  hundred  paces  from  Mount  Calvary 
is  the  Judicial  Grate,  one  of  the  ancient  gates  of 
Jerusalem.  Through  this  gate  the  criminals  were 
led  to  Mount  Calvary,  and  through  this  gate 
Our  Divine  Redeemer,  loaded  with  the  cross,  pass- 
ed to  ascend  Mount  Calvary,  there  to  be  offered 
a  sacrifice  for  our  sins.  Here  a  Partial  Indulgence 
is  obtainable.  The  pillar  still  exists  to  which 
was  affixed  the  sentence  pronounced  by  Pilate  on 
the  Saviour  of  the  world.  The  sentence  is  pre- 
served in  Jerusalem  by  tradition,  and  it  is  the 
following  :  "  Jesum  Nazarenum,  subversorem 
gentis,  contemptorem  Gcesaris  et  falsum  Messiam} 
ut  majorum  suae  gentis  testimonio  probatum  est, 
ducite  ad  communis  supplicii  locum,  et  cum  ludi- 
briis  regiae  majestatis  in  medio  duorum  latronum 
cruci  affigite.  I,  lictor,  expedicruces"  "  Lead  Je- 
sus of  Nazareth  a  subverter  of  the  nation,  contem- 
ner  of  Caesar,  and  the  false  Messiah,  as  is  proved  by 
the  judges  of  his  nation,  to  the  place  of  public  ex- 
cution  and  affix  him  to  the  cross,  clothed  in  regal 
robes  between  two  thieves.  Go,  lictor,  prepare 
the  crosses."  Here  ends  the  Via  Dolorosa.\ 


ST.  MARY   MAGDALEN.  183 

i 

The  other  places  of  devotion  within  the  city  are 
the  following  :  Near  Mount  Calvary  there  are  some 
old  walls  in  which  you  can  see  yet,  some  iron  sta- 
ples. Here  was  the  prison  of  St.  Peter.  For- 
merly there  was  a  church  dedicated  to  this  Apos- 
tle, and  on  this  spot  a  Partial  Indulgence  is  ob- 
tainable. In  this  locality,  is  the  line  large  church 
belonging  to  the  Greek  Patriarch,  which  is  erect- 
ed on  the  site  of  the  house  of  Zebedee.\ 

Upon  Mount  Abisade,  (or  Bezeta,)  was  the  house 
of  Simon,  the  Pharisee,  which  has  been  made  into 
a  church,  dedicated  to  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  who 
here  confessed  her  sins,  and  was  converted.  Un- 
fortunately, at  present,  it  is  in  the  hands  of  the 
Mussulmans.  There  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence,  at- 
tached to  this  place,  and  it  is  very  appropriate  to 
perpetuate  the  memory  of  that  spot  where  Christ 
Our  Lord  bestowed  a  Plenary  Indulgence  on  that 
great  sinner  when  he  said,  "  Many  sins  are  for- 
given her,  because  she  hath  loved  much — thy  sins 
are  forgiven  thee."  At  the  foot  of  Mount  Sion 
near  David's  Gate,  was  the  house  of  the  priest 
Anna.  It  is  turned  into  a  church,  which  is  in  the 
possession  of  the  Armenians.  Here  a  Plenary  Indul- 
gence can  be  gained.  Between  the  castle  and  the 
gate  of  Mount  Sion,  is  the  place  where  Our  Saviour 
appeared  to  Mary  Magdalen,  to  Mary  the  mother 
of  James,  and  to  Mary  Salome,  and  said,  u  Avete." 
Here  a  Partial  Indulgence  is  obtainable.  The  house 
of  St.  Anna,  commonly  known  as  the  place  of  the 
nativity  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  is  on  the  left 
of  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen.  It  is  believed  that 


184  JERUSALEM. 

the  Blessed  Virgin  was  born  here.  In  the  time  of 
the  Crusaders,  there  was  here  a  Monastery  of  the 
Benedictine  Sisters.  It  was  destroyed  afterwards, 
and  the  church  attached  to  it  was  changed  by  the 
Turks  into  a  Mosque,  lately  it  was  presented  to 
Napoleon  III.,  who  restored  it  to  its  primitive  use, 
that  of  a  Catholic  Church.  Here  a  Plenary  In- 
dulgence can  be  gained.  Upon  Mount  Sion,  be- 
hind the  Castle  of  David,  -within  the  wall  of  the 
city,  was  the  house  of  Mary  the  mother  of  Mark 
and  John,  at  whose  door  St.  Peter  knocked  for 
refuge,  when  he  had  been  set  at  liberty  from 
prison  by  the  angel.  It  has  been  turned  into  a 
church,  in  possession  of  the  Syrians.  A  Partial 
Indulgence  is  here  obtainable.\ 

On  the  highest  summit  of  Mount  Sion,  is  one  of 
the  most  elegant  and  richest  churches  of  the  city, 
which  is  possessed  by  the  Armenians,  who  have 
here  also  a  fine  convent ;  it  is  called  the  Church 
of  the  Apostle  St.  James.  This  is  where  the 
Apostle  of  Spain  was  beheaded,  by  order  of  King 
Agrippa.  A  Partial  Indulgence  is  here  obtain- 
able. Stains  of  the  blood  of  this  Apostle  can  be 
seen  yet,  on  the  stone  where  he  received  martyr- 
dom.\ 

The  pool  of  Bethsaida,  (or  Probatic  pond,)  is 
the  oldest  monument  in  the  city,  it  dates  from  the 
time  of  Solomon.  It  is  upon  Mount  Moriah.  and 
is  bounded  by  the  temple  on  the  north  side. 
It  is  not  far  from  St.  Stephen's  Gate,  and  very 
near  the  house  of  St.  Anna.  It  is  a  reservoir 
150  feet  long,  and  40  wide.  This  is  now  dry  and 


CHURCH    OF    ST.    SAVIOUR.  185 

half  filled  up.  Here  on  the  brink  of  this  pool, 
Christ  said  to  the  paralytic  man,  "Rise,  take  up 
thy  led  and  walk"  Here  the  lambs  destined  for 
the  sacrifice  were  washed,  and  here  when  the 
angel  moved  the  water,  the  man  that  first  entered 
it  was  cured  from  whatsoever  infirmity.  Partial 
Indulgence.  \ 

Such  are  the  holy  places  within  the  City  of 
Jerusalem.  I  had  not  yet  received  permission, 
nor  had  I  a  good  opportunity,  to  go  to  the  famous 
Mosque  of  Omar,  built  upon  the  foundations  of  the 
Temple  of  Solomon,  and  to  visit  the  Church  of  the 
Presentation,  also  turned  into  a  Mosque.  It  is 
true  that  at  present  it  is  not  so  difficult,  as  formerly, 
to  enter  it ;  I  understood  that  the  Sultan  by  a 
firman,  had  permitted  Christians  to  visit  the 
Mosque,  yet  who  would  protect  me  from  being 
stoned  to  death  by  the  Turks  in  a  fit  of  fanati- 
cism ?  A  firman  from  the  Sultan  could  not  save  me.\ 

The  Church  of  St.  Saviour,  the  Latin  Church 
attached  to  the  Franciscan  Convent,  is  not  a 
sanctuary  ;  yet  many  Indulgences  have  been  at- 
tached to  this  church,  especially  those  annexed 
to  the  Cenacle  which  now  can  be  gained  in  the 
Church  of  St.  Saviour.  At  the  Major  Altar,  can 
be  obtained  the  Plenary  Indulgence  of  the  Descent 
of  the  Holy  Ghost.  To  the  Chapel  of  the  Last 
Supper  a  Plenary  Indulgence  is  attached,  in 
memory  of  this  mystery ;  to  the  Chapel  of  St. 
Thomas,  a  Plenary  Indulgence  in  remembrance  of 
the  second  appearance  of  Our  Saviour  to  the 
Apostles.  A  Plenary  Indulgence  is  attached  to 
ii.— 12. 


186  JERUSALEM. 

the  whole  Church.  The  Franciscan  Friars,  who 
are  the  guardians  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  of 
the  Holy  Land  in  general,  formerly  dwelt  upon 
Mount  Sion,  where  the  Cenacle  is,  outside  of  the 
city.  But  the  Turks  having  taken  possession  of 
that  place,  and  massacred  most  of  the  Community  ; 
they  were  obliged  to  retire  within  the  city,  and 
purchased  a  lot  on  Mount  Gihon,  where  their 
convent  is  at  present,  and  the  Church  of  St. 
Saviour.  The  Reverendissirno,  the  Superior  of 
the  Holy  Land,  resides  there.  They  are  nearly  all 
Italians.  There  must  be,  however,  some  French 
and  some  Spaniards  among  them.  The  Reveren- 
dissimo  must  be  an  Italian,  and  the  Yicar  a 
Frenchman  .\ 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ENVIRONS    OF   JERUSALEM. 

'JEWS'     WAILING     PLACE — GARDEN     OF     GETHSEMANI TOMB     OF     THE     BLESSED 

VIRGIN MOUNT    OF    OLIVES MOUNTAIN     AND     PLACE     OF    THE     ASCENSION    OF 

OUR    LORD THE     GEHENNA NEHEMIAH's    WELL VALLEY    OF    SILOAM VAL- 
LEY   OF  JEHO3APHAT MELCHISEDECK BROOK    CEDRON MOUNT    6ION  THB 

CENACLE — TOMB    OF   DAVID — RESIDENCE   OF   CAIPHAS— CAVERN    OF  JEREMIAH 

TOMB     OF     LAZARUS JERICHO THE    JORDAN CHURCH     OF     ST.    JOHN    THE 

BAPTIST — THE    DEAD  SEA — EMMAU8 MASS    ON  THE  TOMB  OF   OUR   LORD — ILL- 
NESS  OF   THE  AUTHOR.^ 

\HAVINO  given  a  brief  description  of  the  Holy 
places  within  the  city,  accompanied  by  my  friend 

Father  Emmanuel  and  Rev. ,  we  went  to  see 

the  sacred  localities  around  the  city.  I  had  al- 
ready visited  the  Garden  of  Gethsemani  and  the 
holy  spot  whose  earth  had  imbibed  the  most  sa- 
cred blood  of  Our  Divine  Redeemer.  My  favorite 
daily  walk  was  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  Via  Do- 
lorosa,  and  the  Garden  of  Gethsemani.  Before 
reaching  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen  we  went  to  the 
Jews'  Wailing  Place  ;  it  is  the  only  locality 
where  the  foundations  of  the  Temple  of  Solomon 
are  visible  from  the  outside  of  the  Mosque  of 
Omar  ;  they  form  a  solid  wall  of  Cyclopean  ma- 
sonry, and  it  is  as  high  as  that  which  surrounds 
the  city.  Here  the  Jews,  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, old  and  young,  gather  every  Friday,  (al- 

(187) 


188  ENVIRONS   OF   JERUSALEM. 

though  every  day  some  of  them  can  be  seen 
there,)  and  shed  tears  of  grief  upon  these  stones, 
which  are  rendered  smooth  by  their  kisses  and 
tears.  It  is  truly  a  moving  sight  to  see  gray- 
headed  men  crying  like  children  upon  the  founda- 
tions of  that  great  temple,  which  was  the  pride  of 
their  nation,  and  the  place  where  their  fathers  for 
many  a  century  had  offered  sacrifices  to  the  God 
of  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob  ;  praying  God  to 
send  the  promised  Messiah,  feeling  humbled  and 
fallen  from  a  great  nation.\ 

I  was  moved  by  the  situation  of  these  unfor- 
tunate people  and  by  the  continuation  of  their 
propensity  to  superstition.  Aware  that  they 
have  no  temple  except  these  foundation  walls, 
they  pray  by  putting  their  lips  between  the  stones, 
where  some  little  opening  is  made  visible  on  ac- 
count of  the  cement  having  dropped  from  between 
two  stones  ;  and  it  looks  ridiculous  to  see  the 
Jews  praying,  with  their  lips  upon  the  opening 
of  the  stones.  Not  satisfied  with  this,  when  there 
is  some  little  hole,  they  blow  their  prayer  inside 
the  wall,  thinking  that  it  will  reach  the  interior 
of  what  remains  of  the  temple.  Poor  creatures, 
deceived  by  diabolic  fraud,  and  hardened  in  their 
hearts !  They  feel  so  humiliated  and  despised 
by  all,  that  they  never  attempt  to  enter  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  It  would  not  be 
safe  for  them  to  go  thither.  They  do  not  even 
dare  to  pass  by  it.  Not  only  the  Christians  of 
every  sect  would  expel  them,  and  injure  them, 
but  even  the  Turks  would  join  the  Christians  in 


GARDEN   OF   GETHSEMANI.  189 

ejecting  them.  The  Catholics  are  the  most  toler- 
ant towards  the  Jews.  Some  of  them  have  seve- 
ral times  attempted  to  enter  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  in  disguise,  but  have  always 
been  detected.  The  reason  why  they  are  treated 
in  this  manner  by  the  Turks  is  because  they  are 
detested  for  having  crucified  a  just  man,  a  holy 
prophet  ;  while  the  Christians  condemn  them  for 
having  crucified  the  Son  of  God,  the  promised 
Messiah,  and  Saviour  of  the  world.  They  endure 
the  fulfilment  of  the  curse,  which,  nearly  nineteen 
centuries  ago,  they  brought  upon  their  nation, 
by  crying  to  Pontius  Pilate,  "  His  Uood  be  upon 
us,  and  upon  our  children  !  "/ 

We  went  outside  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen,  and 
there  we  viewed,  on  the  right,  the  valley  of  Jeho- 
saphat.  The  Brook  Cedron  was  at  our  feet, 
and,  in  front,  we  had  the  lovely  Mount  of  Olives, 
the  Garden  of  Gethsemani,  and  the  Tomb  of  the 
Blessed  Virgin.  About  half  way  down  the  hill, 
we  saw  a  large  rock  on  the  road  which  here  made 
a  descent ;  it  marked  the  spot  where  St  Stephen 
was  stoned  ;  a  Partial  Indulgence  is  here  obtain- 
able. The  place  where  Saul  kept  the  dresses  of 
those  who  stoned  St.  Stephen,  is  a  little  higher 
up  ;  and,  to  the  left  of  it,  once  stood  a  chapel 
erected  in  honor  of  this  saint  by  the  Empress 
Eudoxia.  Near  this,  is  also  the  locality  where 
the  body  of  St.  Stephen  was  laid  before  being 
buried.  Here  is  a  Partial  Indulgence.  We  went, 
first,  to  the  Tomb  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  but  the 
door  leading  to  it  was  closed.  A  few  yards  to 


190         ENVIRONS  OF  JERUSALEM. 

the  left  of  this  sanctuary,  is  the  grotto  where  Our 
Saviour  sweat  blood,  and  where  an  angel  was  sent 
from  heaven  to  support  Him  when  sinking  be- 
neath the  weight  of  human  woe.  The  grotto  is 
irregular  and  has  several  marble  altars,  all  be- 
longing to  the  Latins.  A  Plenary  Indulgence  is 
attached  to  it.  As  I  intended  to  return  next 
morning  to  say  mass,  I  did  not  stop  long,  but  I 
went  to  the  Garden  of  Gethsemani,  now  in  pos- 
session of  the  Latins,  who  have  purchased  it  and 
enclosed  it  with  a  high  and  massive  wall.  An 
iron  gate,  low  and  narrow,  is  the  only  entrance, 
and  it  is  necessary  to  stoop  very  low  to  be  able 
to  enter.\ 

Outside,  near  the  gate,  there  is  a  small  pillar 
marking  the  spot  where  Our  Saviour  was  betray- 
ed by  Judas  with  a  kiss.  There  is  a  Plenary  In- 
dulgence attached.  The  Garden  is  cultivated  by 
a  lay  brother,  and  is  laid  out  in  beds  of  flowers. 
To  this  spot  Our  Lord  used  to  retire  ;  here 
He  prayed  entire  nights  ;  here  He  ate,  drank, 
and  conversed  with  His  disciples  ;  here  He  gave 
commencement  to  His  bitter  passion.  In  this 
place  and  on  this  spot  He  said  to  the  eight  apostles 
to  sit,  till  He  went  yonder  to  pray  ;  and  here  He 
commanded  the  three  apostles  to  stop  and  pray, 
removing  from  them  a  stone's  throw.  What  a  pre- 
cious locality!  Partial  Indulgence.  Amongst 
many  olive  trees,  there  are  four  very  venerable 
and  old-looking.  Tradition  says,  that  these  are  the 
identical  trees  under  which  Our  Saviour  was  cap- 
tured. These  four  trees  can  be  said  to  be  immor- 


CAVERN    OF    AGONY.  191 

* 

tal,   as  fresh  branches  spring  up   from   the  old 
stumps.x 

Next  morning  I  said  mass  in  this  Cavern  of 
Agony.  After  mass,  accompanied  by  a  lay  bro- 
ther, I  went  to  the  tomb  of  the  Blessed  Virgin. 
The  sanctuary  was  open.  The  Schismatics, 
(Armenians  and  Greeks,)  were  singing  high  mass, 
as  they  do  every  day.  The  Latins  have  the  priv- 
ilege to  sing  mass  only  on  Assumption  day. 
The  tomb  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  is  in  a  subterran- 
ean church  descended  to  by  a  fine  flight  of  fifty 
very  long  steps.  Here  a  Plenary  Indulgence  is  ob- 
tainable. In  the  middle  of  this  flight  of  steps,  at 
the  right  in  ascending,  is  a  very  small  chapel  ex- 
cavated out  of  the  rock  with  an  altar  to  St.  Jos- 
eph, where  this  great  Patriarch,  the  guardian  of 
Our  Saviour,  was  buried.  A  Partial  Indulgence. 
On  the  other  side,  opposite  to  this  oratory,  is  ano- 
ther chapel  also  excavated  in  the  rock,  with  an 
altar  to  St.  Joachim  and  St.  Anne,  where  exist 
their  tombs.  Partial  Indulgence.  The  tomb  of 
the  Blessed  Virgin  is  behind  an  altar  in  a  small 
chamber,  very  much  the  size  of  that  of  Our  Sa- 
viour ;  but  the  chamber  is  entered  by  two  doors. 
Whether  the  chamber  is  original  or  built  in 
order  to  construct  an  altar  at  the  front,  I  am  not 
able  to  tell.  Many  lamps  burn  before  the  altar 
and  in  the  church.  I  asked  a  Greek  for  a  small 
piece  of  the  rock  in  which  the  tomb  is  excavated, 
but  was  refused  in  a  very  angry  manner ;  but 
still  I  got  it,  and  I  also  took  some  small  pieces 
from  the  tombs  of  St.  Joseph,  St.  Anne,  and  St. 
Joachim.* 


192  ENVIKONS    OF   JERUSALEM. 

In  commencing  to  ascend  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
a  rock  is  seen  whereon  the  Apostle  St.Thomas 
used  to  sit,  melancholy  and  inconsolable,  after 
the  Assumption  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  who  (ac- 
cording to  Nicephorus  and  Juvenal,  Bishop  of 
Jerusalem,)  dropped  him  her  belt.  (Partial 
Indulgence.)  Here  there  is  a  place  where  the 
Blessed  Virgin  was  accustomed  to  stop  and  pray. 
(Partial  Indulgence.)  Leaving  the  broad  road 
which  leads  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  turn- 
ing to  the  right  to  a  half  ruined  little  house,  you 
see  the  spot  from  which  Our  Divine  Redeemer 
shed  tears  over  the  obstinacy  of  the  daughter  of 
Sion,  foretelling  the  future  ruin  of  the  city  and 
temple,  of  which  there  would  not  be  left  one  stone 
upon  another.  (Partial  Indulgence.)  From  this 
rock,  called  the  stone  of  prediction,  we  ascended  to 
a  cavern,  on  our  right,  called  the  Tombs  of  the 
Prophets.  There  is  nothing  to  see,  nor  do  we 
know  what  prophets'  remains  were  buried  here  in 
these  tombs.  They  consist  of  a  number  of  cells 
excavated  in  a  cave,  the  whole  hewn  out  of  the 
rock  in  the  interior  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.  It 
is  not  believed  that  any  prophet  was  buried  there, 
hence,  they  are  supposed  to  have  been  excavated 
afterwards,  and  dedicated  to  the  honor  of  the 
Prophets.  (A  Partial  Indulgence.)  y 

Farther  up  we  reached  the  place,  where  the 
Apostles, before  dispersing  through  the  world,  retir- 
ed to  compose  the  Apostles'  Creed.  It  was  formerly 
a  large  cavern,  in  which  the  Primitive  Christians 
bad  engraved  twelve  niches  to  perpetuate  this 


MOUNTAIN    OF   THE    ASCENSION.  193 

4 

spot.  (A  Partial  Indulgence.)  Near  here  is  the 
site  where  Our  Lord  taught  His  disciples  how  to 
pray  ;  teaching  the  u  Our  Father"  (A  Partial 
Indulgence.)  Close  to  this  spot  is  the  hermitage 
of  St.  Pelagia.  (A  Partial  Indulgence.)  A  little 
larther  is  the  locality  where  tradition  says  that  an 
Angel  announced  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  the  time 
of  her  translation  to  heaven.  (A  Partial  Indul- 
gence.) Finally  on  the  very  top  there  is  a  small 
octagonal  mosque,  the  remains  of  a  church  built 
there  by  St.  Helena.  This  is  erected  on  the  spot 
from  whence  Christ  ascended  to  heaven  after  His 
Resurrection.  On  this  rock  I  saw  the  print  of  Our 
Lord's  left  foot.  It  shows  that  Our  Saviour  had 
His  face  towards  the  West.  Here  a  Plenary  In- 
dulgence is  obtainable.  The  Catholics  go  thither 
on  Ascension  Day  to  celebrate  Mass.  The  place 
is  in  charge  of  a  Santou,  who  receives  some  back- 
sheesh  to  open  the  door  and  show  the  spot.  I 
asked  him  for  some  pieces  of  the  rock,  and  he 
broke  off  a  very  little  piece  near  the  print,  but  he 
expected  more  backsheesh,  of  course.\ 

Near  here  is  the  place  called  Viri  Galilcei, 
where  the  Angel  appeared  to  the  disciples  imme- 
diately after  the  ascension.  (Plenary  Indulgence.) 
Not  very  far  off  is  the  locality  where  was  situated 
the  village  of  Bethphage,  from  which  place  Our 
Saviour  sent  some  of  His  Apostles  to  take  the  ass 
and  the  colt  to  make  His  entry  into  Jerusalem. 
(Partial  Indulgence.)  Formerly  there  was  a  church 
on  this  site,  but  now  nothing  remains  except  a 
well.\ 


194         ENVIRONS  OF  JERUSALEM. 

From  the  top  of  this  mountain,  you  can  see 
Mount  Moriah  and  the  Valley  of  Jehosaphat  be- 
tween them,  at  the  eastern  base  the  Garden  of 
Gethsemani,  and  at  the  northern,  Bethania,  Far 
in  the  distance  I  saw  the  mountain  where  Our  Lord 
fasted  forty  days  ;  the  plain  of  Galgala,  the  Jor- 
dan and  the  bleak,  barren  mountains  sloping  to- 
wards the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  visible  from  this 
place.  The  Mountain  of  the  Franks,  which  was 
the  last  place  in  Palestine  where  those  noble  crus- 
aders retreated  and  heroically  held  for  two 
years  ;  the  heights  of  Ramathaim  Sophim,  and 
many  other  famous  places,  can  be  discerned.  Next 
day,  after  having  celebrated  Mass  at  the  Church 
of  the  Flagellation,  where  Our  Saviour  was 
scourged,  accompanied  by  my  usual  friends,  I 
went  out  by  the  Stirquilinian  gate  called  Bab-el- 
Maugrabe,  Gate  of  the  Maugrabins,  or  people  of 
Barbary  ;  through  this  gate  Our  Saviour  was  drag- 
ged to  Pilate  in  the  night  when  captured  in  the 
Garden  of  Gethsemani. \ 

Near  to  this  gate,  but  outside  of  the  city,  we 
saw  the  settlement  of  the  Lepers.  These  poor 
creatures  excite  compassion  and  fear.  We  were 
afraid  to  go  too  near  to  them.  They  are  not  al- 
lowed to  enter  the  city.  We  saw  the  Tower  of 
David,  and  the  pool  of  Bethsaida,  in  which  Bethsa- 
beah,  the  wife  of  Uriah,  was  bathing  when  David 
saw  her  from  the  roof  of  his  palace.  We  visited 
the  place  where  Isaias  prophesied  to  Achaz,  or 
more  properly  to  the  house  of  David  :  "  Ecce 
Virgo  concipiet  etpariet"  (Behold  a  Virgin  shall 


MOUNT    OF    OLIVES.  195 

conceive  and  bear  a  son.  .  .)  After  this  comes 
a  deep,  solitary  valley,  which  is  the  image  of  terror, 
melancholy  and  desolation  ;  it  is  frightfully  barren 
and  full  of  rocks.  This  place  is  the  Valley  of  the 
son  of  Enon,  and  finishes  in  the  vale  of  Siloam, 
and  this  is  the  Gehenna  of  the  Gospel  ;  at  its  ex- 
tremity is  the  Aceldama,  (the  field  of  blood,)  the 
potter's  field,  purchased  with  the  thirty  pieces  of 
silver  given  to  Judas.  It  is  used,  to  this  day,  for 
the  burial  of  strangers,  and  there  is  attached  to  it 
a  Partial  Indulgence .\ 

From  this  place,  we  passed  to  the  "Well  of  Ne- 
hemiah,  in  which  the  sacred  fire  had  been  conceal- 
ed by  the  priests  during  the  destruction  of  the 
city  by  Nabuchodonosor,  and  after  their  return 
from  slavery  in  Babylon,  Nehemiah  made  the 
priests  extract  the  congealed  water  found,  instead 
of  the  fire,  with  which  the  victims  were  sprinkled, 
and  took  fire  at  the  appearance  of  the  sun.  It  is  a 
grand  and  deep  well,  and  contains  good  water. 
A  Partial  Indulgence  is  granted  to  this  place. 
Then  we  walked  by  the  side  of  the  Brook  of 
Cedron,  which  runs  along  the  Yalley  of  Jehosaphat ; 
this  Brook  often  becomes  very  dry.  This  valley 
commences  from  this  well,  and  terminates  at  the 
foot  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.  I  saw  the  Mount 
of  Evil  Counsel,  where  Caiphas,  the  High  Priest, 
is  said  to  have  had  a  villa,  in  which  the  death  of 
Our  Saviour  was  plotted  by  the  chief  priests, 
and  the  elders  of  the  people.  This  is  the 
Mountain  of  Scandals,  where  Solomon  erected 
and  worshiped  idols.  These  localities  are  the 
image  of  desolation.\ 


196  ENVIRONS   OF  JERUSALEM. 

Here  is  the  valley  of  Jehosaphat,  and  it  was  in 
this  place  that  the  Idols  Moloc  and  Beelphagonnst* 
erected  and  worshiped,  and  to  whom  children 
were  sacrificed.  The  valley  of  Siloam,  which  con- 
nects with  that  of  Jehosaphat,  is  between  the  pool 
of  Siloah,  whose  waters  effected  the  miraculous 
cure  of  the  blind  man.  and  the  village  of  Siloam,  on 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  whose  inhabitants  are 
robbers,  who  have  several  times  plundered  the 
little  house  of  the  lay-brother  that  keeps  the  Gar- 
den of  Gethsemani.  Although  this  village  is  close 
to  the  city,  yet  it  is  not  safe  to  venture  alone 
through  this  place.  I  drank  of  the  water  and 
washed  my  eyes  with  it  It  is  believed  that  this 
water  cures  blindness  and  will  prevent  it.  (^A 
Partial  Indulgence.)  The  viDage  of  Siloah  is 
built  on  ground  rail  of  caverns  and  subterranean 
passages,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  catch  th 
rascals,  who  can  easily  conceal  themselves  there 
and  then  make  their  escape.  The  water  which 
flows  from  this  pool  waters  the  fine  gardens  which 
were  formerly  the  gardens  of  Kings.  It  was  with 
this  water  that  the  Levites  sprinkled  the  altar  at 
the  feasts  of  the  Tabernacles,  singing  "  Hauri 
aquas  in  gawdio  defoatibus  'Salvatoris?  The  spring 
issues  from  a  rock,  but  St.  Jerome  denies  it  It 
has  a  kind  of  ebb  and  flood.  I  saw  the  mulberry 
tree  upon  which  the  Prophet  Isaias  was  sawed 
in  two.  (Partial  Indulgence.)  \ 

The  valley  of  Jehosaphat  is  a  frightful  place  of 
horror,  full  of  graves  ;"it  has  always  been  used  for 
a  Jewish  burying  ground,  and  it  serves  yet  for 


VALLEY    OF   JEHOSAPHAT.  197 

the  same  purpose.  (A  Partial  Indulgence.)  It 
is  astonishing  to  see  old  Jews  resort  hither  from 
every  quarter  of  the  globe,  to  buy  from  a  foreign- 
er a  few  feet  of  the  land  of  their  fathers,  in  order  to 
lay  their  bones  by  the  side  of  their  ancestors,  un- 
der the  shadow  of  the  walls  of  Jerusalem.  In  this 
desolate  valley,  at  the  foot  of  the  Mount  of  Offen' 
or  Scandal,  is  the  magnificent  tomb  of  Absalom.  It 
is  a  square  mass,  eight  feet  each  way,  of  a  single 
block,  ornamented  with  twenty-four  Doric  semi- 
columus,  six  on  each  side,  cut  out  of  the  same  block, 
terminated  by  a  pyramid  on  the  top.  Absalom  was 
not  buried  here,  because  he  was  killed  on  the 
mountains  of  Gelboe.  Near  it,  and  of  about  the 
same  description,  is  the  Sepulchre  of  the  Prophet 
Zacharia,  whom  the  Jews  killed  between  the  Tem- 
ple and  the  Altar.  (A  Partial  Indulgence.)  Close  „ 
to  it  is  the  tomb  of  Jehosaphat,  in  a  grotto  whose 
door  is  the  principal  ornament,  and  which  is 
very  beautiful.  (A  Partial  Indulgence. ) 

When  the  King  Jehosaphat  caused  his  tomb  to 
be  constructed  in  this  place,  this  valley  was  dis- 
tinguished with  the  name  of  the  Yalley  of  Jehosa- 
phat. It  was  first  called  the  Yalley  Scaveh,  the 
King  8  Valley,  tht  Valley  of  Melchv&declc,  because 
it  was  in  this  valley  that  Melchisedeck,  Priest  and 
King  of  Salem  (now  Jerusalem),  went  to  meet 
Abraham  to  congratulate  him  on  his  victory  over 
the  five  Kings.  Here  he  offered  the  sacrifice  of 
bread  and  wine,  and  here  he  received  the  tenth 
of  all  the  spoils.  In  this  valley,  we  must  gather 
from  the  four  winds,  on  the  last  day  of  the  world, 


198         ENVIRONS  OF  JERUSALEM. 

when  Our  Saviour  will  come  down  from  Heaven 
in  a  cloud  with  great  majesty  and  power  to  judge 
all  nations.x  ^»hi  • 

Immediately  next  to  this  tomb  comes  the  sepul- 
chre, in  which  the  Apostle  St.  James  the  Less,  con- 
cealed himself.  It  has  a  handsome  portico  and  four 
columns.  A  Partial  Indulgence  is  attached  to  this 
tomb.  The  age  in  which  these  mausoleums  were 
built  is  considered  to  be  that  of  the  first  Macha- 
bees,  in  the  time  of  the  alliance  between  the  Jews 
and  the  Lacedemonians.  There  is  also  a  Partial 
Indulgence  obtainable  at  a  cave  in  this  locality 
where  the  Apostles  hid  themselves  after  hav- 
ing abandoned  Our  Lord  during  His  capture. 
There  is  also  a  Partial  Indulgence  obtainable  at 
the  cave  where  St.  James  Alpheus  retired  after 
the  death  of  his  Divine  Master,  and  refused  to  eat 
or  drink  till  the  Resurrection  of  Our  Saviour,  who 
condescended  to  appear  to  him.  There  is  a  grant 
of  another  Partial  Indulgence  obtainable  at  the 
fountain  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  which  is  in  this 
valley.  This  fountain  communicates  with  the 
Pool  of  Siloah.  On  the  bridge  across  the  Brook 
of  Cedron,  where  Our  Saviour  fell  on  that  dreadful 
night,  when  He  was  captured  and  dragged  to  Je- 
rusalem, there  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence  can  be  ob- 
tained.\ 

I  observed  in  this  valley  some  tombs  covered 
with  a  slab  having  a  large  hole  about  a  foot  large  ; 
I  inquired  about  it,  and  they  told  me  that  some  su- 
perstitious Jews  or  Mohammedans  made  a  hole  in 
the  top  slab,  to  give  passage  to  the  soul  to  come 


MOUNT   SIGN.  199 

out  on  the  day  of  judgment  or  to  accelerate  the 
resurrection  of  that  body,  by  avoiding  every  ob- 
struction in  rising  from  the  tomb.\ 

Mount  Sion,  so  sublime  for  its  position  and  for 
the  great  mysteries  operated  on  it,  the  subject  of 
the  benedictions  and  of  the  tears  of  the  Prophets, 
whose  glories  were  sung  by  Solomon  in  his  Canti- 
cles, and  by  David  in  his  Psalms,  now  stands  sol- 
itary and  melancholy,  amongst  a  heap  of  ruins 
shadowing  the  graves  of  Christians.  It  is  a  bar- 
ren yellowish  hill,  half  enclosed  in  the  city,  and 
half  out  of  the  present  walls.  The  Cenacle  is  a 
sanctuary  famous  both  in  the  Old  and  New 
Testaments  ;  it  stands  upon  the  glorious  Mount 
Sion.  Here  David  built  himself  a  house  and 
tomb,  and  here  he  kept  for  three  months  the  Ark 
of  the  Covenant,  which  he  transported  from  the 
house  of  Obededon  —  here  Christ  held  his  last 
passover  and  instituted  the  Sacrament  of  the  Holy 
Eucharist — here  He  appeared  to  His  disciples  on 
the  day  of  His  resurrection,  and  when  He  gave 
them  the  power  to  forgive  sins  by  instituting  the 
Sacrament  of  Penance.  Here  He  appeared  eight 
days  afterwards,  the  door  being  closed,  and  made 
the  incredulous  St.  Thomas  touch  His  sacred 
wounds  :  and  here  He  made  His  last  appearance 
before  His  ascension.  On  this  spot  the  Apostles, 
returning  from  the  Mount  of  Olives,  for  ten  days 
prepared  themselves  in  union  and  prayer  to  re- 
ceive the  Holy  Grhost,  who  descended  upon  them 
in  fiery  tongues  on  this  very  spot.  Here  was  the 
first  Christian  Church  in  the  world.  Here  St. 


200  ENVIRONS    OF    JERUSALEM. 

James  the  Less  was  consecrated  the  first  Chris- 
tian Bishop  of  Jerusalem,  and  St.  Peter  held  the 
first  Council  of  the  Church,  and  here  the  first  seven 
Deacons  were  elected.  From  this  spot  the  Apos- 
tles dispersed  to  every  part  of  the  world,  accord- 
ing to  the  injunction  of  Our  Lord  to  teach  all  na- 
tions. It  is  a  tradition  in  Jerusalem  that  this 
was  the  place  where  St.  John  celebrated  mass  in 
the  presence  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  who  is  believ- 
ed to  have  departed  from  this  life  in  this  spot ;  and 
finally  this  is  the  locality  where  the  body  of  St. 
Stephen  Protomartyr  was  transferred  before  his 
final  inter ment.\ 

This  famous  Sanctuary  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
Franciscans,  who  had  also  a  convent,  but  on  ac- 
count of  the  frequent  depredations  and  assassina- 
tions perpetrated  by  the  Turks,  the  good  fathers 
were  obliged  to  retire  into  Jerusalem.  This  place 
is  now  in  the  hands  of  the  Turks,  who  have  turn- 
ed it  into  a  Mosque,  and  into  a  Turkish  Hospital, 
and  as  is  usually  the  case  with  their  buildings,  it 
is  in  a  dilapidated  condition.  It  is  out  of  the  walls 
of  the  city,  and  a  Santon  watches  over  it.  I  got 
permission  to  visit  it  by  paying  some  backsheesh. 
It  is  a  large  room  divided  by  a  kind  of  alcove. 
I  was  not  permitted  to  see  the  tomb  of  David, 
which  is  in  this  Sanctuary,  notwithstanding  the 
promise  of  backsheesh  ;  the  tomb  is  on  a  corner  at 
the  left  of  the  entrance.  I  rushed  thither,  but  a  long 
flight  of  stairs  and  the  darkness  obstructed  the 
view.  I  understand  that  there  are  three  tombs,  cov- 
ered with  carpets,  that  of  David,  that  of  Solomon, 


TOMB    OF   DAVID.  201 

i 

and  the  other  I  do  not  know.  While  I  was  peep- 
ing down  and  trying  to  bargain  with  the  obstinate 
Santon,  two  Mussulmans  emerged  from  below, 
where  they  had  been  praying,  and  I  desisted. 
The  Indulgences  attached  to  this  Sanctuary  are, 
one  Plenary  Indulgence  on  the  Sacred  Cenacle, 
where  the  HOLY  EUCHARIST  was  instituted 
and  a  Partial  Indulgence  to  each  of  the  fol- 
lowing places  :  First.  On  the  Church  (or  the 
spot  where  it  stood)  of  the  Holy  Apostles. 
Second.  Where  the  Paschal  Lamb  was  prepared 
for  the  Last  Supper  of  Our  Lord.  Third.  Where 
Christ  washed  the  feet  of  the  Apostles.  Fourth. 
Where  the  Holy  Ghost  descended  upon  the  Apos- 
tles, fifth.  On  the  tomb  of  David.  Sixth.  Where 
the  lot  fell  upon  Matthias.  Seventh.  Where  St. 
James  the  Less  was  consecrated  Bishop  of  Je- 
rusalem. Eiglitli.  Where  the  Apostles  divid- 
ed themselves  to  go  teach  all  nations.  Ninth. 
Where  the  body  of  St.  Stephen  was  laid.  Tenth. 
Where  St.  John  celebrated  Mass  in  the  presence 
of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  Eleventh.  Where  the 
Jews  attempted  to  steal  the  body  of  the  Blessed 
Virgin  when  it  was  about  to  be  buried.  There 
is  also  a  Plenary  Indulgence  attached  to  the  spot 
of  the  translation  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.\ 

That  upon  Mount  Sion  the  sepulchres  of 
David's  family  were  situated  there  is  no  doubt, 
although  the  precise  spot  may  be  questioned. 
Josephus,  the  historian,  has  left  us  a  magnificent 
description  of  the  palace  and  tomb  of  David,  and 
relates  that  Herod  the  Great,  having  attempted 
it.— 13. 


202  ENVIRONS   OF  JERUSALEM. 

to  open  David's  coffin,  was  deterred  and  frustra- 
ted by  flames  of  fire,  which  issued  from  the  tomb.\ 
Benjamin  of  Tudela  also  relates,  that  during 
his  time,  one  of  the  walls  of  the  temple,  which 
stood  upon  Mount  Sion,  fell  down,  and  that  the 
Patriarch  ordered  one  of  his  Priests  to  repair  it 
with  stones,  that  could  be  procured  from  the 
foundation  of  the  walls  of  the  ancient  Sion.  Two 
of  the  workingmen  raised  a  stone  which  discov- 
ered the  mouth  of  a  cavern.  They  entered  it, 
and  going  forward,  came  to  a  splendid  and  grand 
palace,  supported  with  marble  pillars,  and  cover- 
ed with  plates  of  gold  and  silver.  They  saw  a 
table  on  which  lay  a  crown  and  sceptre.  This 
was  the  sepulchre  of  David.  That  of  Solomon, 
with  similar  ornaments,  was  on  the  left.  There 
were  also  other  tombs  of  the  Kings  of  Juda,  of 
the  family  of  David.  They  saw  also  chests,  which 
were  locked  up.  They  endeavored  to  enter  the 
palace,  but  a  violent  whirlwind  from  the  mouth 
of  the  cavern  thre,w  them  on  the  ground,  where 
they  remained  till  night,  when  another  whirl- 
wind roused  them,  and  they  heard  a  voice,  saying, 
"  Arise,  and  go  away  from  this  place."  They, 
affrighted,  ran  away  precipitately,  and  related  it 
to  the  Patriarch,  who  made  them  repeat  it  before 
Abraham  of  Constantinople — a  Pharisee,  sur-' 
named  Pious,  then  residing  at  Jerusalem,  to  hear 
his  opinion.  Abraham  replied,  that  "  that  was 
the  burial  place  of  the  House  of  David,  prepared 
for  the  Kings  of  Juda.'7  The  two  men  fell  very 
ill  from  fright,  and  could  never  be  induced  to  re- 
turn to  the  same  place.x 


TOMBS    OF   THE   KINGS.  203 

The  other  Sanctuary  on  Mount  Sion  is  the  resi- 
dence of  Oaiphas.  It  is  now  a  church  in  possession 
of  the  Armenians.  Here  four  Partial  Indulgences 
can  be  gained  :  First.  On  the  place  where  our 
Lord  passed  the  last  night  in  prison.  Second. 
Where  St.  Peter  denied  Him.  Third.  Where  he 
heard  the  cock  crow  and  repented.  Fourth.  Where 
the  Blessed  Virgin  stopped  on  learning  the  cap- 
ture of  her  Divine  Son.  There  is  also  another 
Partial  Indulgence  on  the  place  where  St.  Peter 
wept  bitterly.  \ 

In  the  afternoon,  in  company  with  my  same 
friends,  I  went  out  of  the  gate  of  Damascus,  to  see  the 
cavern  of  the  Prophet  Jeremiah.  It  is  close  to  the 
wall  of  the  city,  and  it  is  a  tradition  that  the  heart- 
broken Prophet,  after  the  destruction  of  Jerusa- 
lem by  Nebuchodonosor,  repaired  to  this  cave  and 
there  shed  tears  over  the  ruins  of  the  beautiful 
daughter  of  Sion,  and  crying  and  weeping,  he  com- 
posed the  Lamentation.  Here  also  is  the  prison 
in  which  he  was  placed  by  order  of  King  Sedecia, 
for  having  spoken  freely  to  Israel,  prophesy  ing  all 
the  eviJs  which  afterwards  befel  that  city.\ 

About  one  mile  northward,  we  saw  the  tombs 
of  the  Kings.  A  broad  road  leads  to  a  large  ex- 
cavation entered  by  an  arcade.  From  this  we 
passed  into  an  uncovered  hall  thirty  feet  by  twen- 
ty, and  twelve  high,  cut  out  of  the  rock.  In  the 
middle  of  it  there  is  a  large  square  door  of  the 
Doric  order,  sunk  several  feet  in  the  ledge,  orna- 
mented with  fine  sculptured  works.  In  the  recess 
and  in  the  angle  to  the  left  of  this  great  portico, 


204         ENVIRONS  OF  JERUSALEM. 

we  crawled  on  hands  and  feet  through  a  pas- 
sage, in  which  people  formerly  must  have  entered 
erect,  and  we  were  led  by  a  very  steep  descent  into 
a  square  chamber  excavated  out  of  the  rock. 
Here  we  found  three  Turkish  officers,  who  with 
some  guides  had  come  to  visit  these  sepulchres. 
They  were  very  polite  and  gave  us  all  assis- 
tance, besides  their  guides  and  lights,  as  'we  had 
none.  In  the  sides  of  this  chamber,  there  were 
holes  large  enough  for  the  reception  of  coffins. 
Three  arched  doors  conducted  us  into  seven  oth- 
er chambers  of  different  dimensions,  and  hewn  out 
of  the  rock.  The  place  is  very  dark.  What 
kings  are  buried  here  is  not  determined.  There 
are  antiquarians  who  believe  that  this  was  the 
magnificent  and  wonderful  monument  of  Queen 
Helena,  mother  of  the  King  of  Adiabane.  and 
that  her  remains  and  those  of  her  son  Izates  were 
laid  there  by  the  care  of  Monabazes.  Others 
think  that  it  is  the  tomb  of  Herod  the  Tetrarch. 
They  certainly  had  their  tombs  somewhere  near 
this  place.  After  these  sepulchres  on  the  side  of 
a  hill,  we  visited  the  six  tombs  of  the  Judges, 
which  are  scattered  about  this  locality .\ 

The  pilgrimage  to  the  Jordan  takes  three  days, 
at  least  we  must  pay  for  three  days.  It  is  a  dan- 
gerous place,  on  account  of  the  feuds,  and  of  the  rob- 
bers, descendants  of  the  fierce  Isinael,  who  dwell 
on  the  other  shore  of  this  river  ;  they  lay  snares 
for  travelers  and  then  rob  and  murder  them. 
It  is  necessary  to  go  in  a  small  caravan  and  to 
pay  a  sum  to  the  chief  of  these  robbers,  who 


FOUJNT   OF   THE   APOSTLES.  205 

guarantees  your  life  and  property,  and  sends  a 
Sheik  to  accompany  you.  The  way  goes  by  the 
Mountain  of  Scandals,  and  at  the  commencement 
of  the  way,  a  standing  dead  tree  is  pointed  out, 
where  Judas  hung  himself.  In  a  field  a  dead  fig- 
tree  stands  up,  and  it  is  said  to  be  the  one  cursed 
by  Our  Divine  Redeemer.  Close  by  is  the  cavern 
descended  by  twenty-eight  steps,  where  Lazarus 
was  buried,  whom  Christ  commanded  to  come  forth. 
A  Plenary  Indulgence  is  attached  to  this  place. 
Formerly  there  was  a  nunnery.  In  Bethany  there 
are  some  remains  of  the  house  of  Mary  Magdalen, 
and  of  that  of  Martha,  and  of  the  church  which  once 
stood  there.  Partial  Indulgence.  Nothing  now 
remains  of  the  house  of  Simon  the  Leper,  but  a 
Partial  Indulgence  is  gained  at  this  spot,  and  an- 
other on  the  rock  where  Christ  sat  before  He  was 
met  by  Martha  and  Mary  Magdalen./ 

Going  towards  Jericho,  we  passed  the  so-called 
Fount  of  the  Apostles,  because  they  ofte  n  drank 
of  that  water.  A  Partial  Indulgence.  A  little 
further  on  there  is  a  place  called  Adomim,  which 
means  blood,  because  much  blood  has  been  shed 
here  by  robbers.  It  is  believed  that  Our  Lord  allud- 
ed to  this  locality  in  the  parable  of  the  man,  who, 
going  to  Jericho.,  fell  •  into  the  hands  of  robbers. 
By  the  side  of  the  road  is  the  fountain  of  Eliseus, 
whose  waters,  from,  being  brackish,  were  turned 
into  fresh  by  that  prophet.  (A  Partial  Indul- 
gence). Here  we  see  the  mountain  where  Our 
Saviour  fasted  forty  days.  Partial  Indulgence. 
This  barren  and  rocky  mountain  is  fearfully  deso- 


206         ENVIRONS  OF  JERUSALEM. 

late  j  it  is  full  of  caves,  where  many  holy  hermits 
have  spent  their  lives  and  died.  Jericho,  once  a 
famous  city,  whose  walls  fell  at  the  sound  of  the 
trumpets  of  the  priests  of  Israel,  soon  after  the 
entrance  of  the  people  of  Israel  into  the  Promised 
Land,  is  now  a  miserable  place,  containing  a  few 
ruined  houses,  and  tents.  Partial  Indulgence. 
Hardly  any  remains  exist  of  the  famous  palace  of 
the  great  Herod,  nor  of  Zaceheus,  who  climbed 
the  sycamore-tree  to  see  Our  Saviour,  and  to  whom 
he  had  the  favor  granted  to  give  hospitality.  Par- 
tial Indulgencex 

Beyond  Jericho,  on  the  road  to  the  plain  of 
Galgala,  is  the  place  where  several  blind  men 
were  cured  by  Our  Saviour,  and,  approaching  the 
Jordan,  the  land  is  teeming  with  Scriptural  re- 
cords. Here  the  Israelites  practiced  again  the 
rite  of  circumcision,  which  had  been  suspended 
for  forty  years  while  in  the  desert ;  here  they 
commenced  to  eat  bread,  because  the  Manna, 
which  had  fed  them,  had  ceased  ;  here  they  erec- 
ted twelve  stones  carried  from  the  Jordan,  to 
commemorate  their  passage  across  that  river ; 
these  stones  represented  the  twelve  tribes  of 
Israel,  but  they  were  the  figures  of  the  twelve 
Apostles.  Here  the  Gabaonites  presented  them- 
selves in  rags  and  patched  skins  containing  wine, 
to  deceive  Josue  and  his  people ;  here  is  the 
valley  and  chastisement  of  Achan  ;  here  Saul 
was  confirmed  King  of  Israel,  and  this  is  the 
place  to  which  the  Israelites  every  year  perform- 
ed a  pilgrimage  in  memory  of  the  Ark,  which  was 


THE   RIVER   JORDAN.  207 

kept  here  for  many  years.  On  the  shore  of  the 
Jordan  there  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence.  This  sacred 
river  is  about  two  hundred  miles  long  arid  from 
fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide.  It  runs 
from  the  sea  of  Tiberias  into  the  Dead  Sea,  and 
is  called  in  the  East  by  the  Arabs  Nahar-el-Chiria, 
or  Baliar-el-Arden  (River  of  the  Ford),  but  the  He- 
brews call  it  Jardan  (River  of  the  Judgment).  The 
current  is  rapid  and  the  water  is  brackish.  To 
cross  this  river  one  is  nearly  certain  to  be  mur- 
dered by  the  savage  descendants  of  the  wild  Is- 
mael,  unless  accompanied  by  a  strong  caravan. 
This  river  was  crossed  by  Jacob — a  solitary  trav- 
eler with  his  simple  staff  or  cane,  when  a  fugitive  he 
went  to  Mesopotamia,  but  he  recrossed  it  with  nu- 
merous herds  of  cattle,  and  with  an  immense  family 
and  army.  These  waters  retired,  forming  a  wall 
on  each  side,  to  let  the  children  of  Israel  enter 
into  the  Promised  Land  ;  and  they  did  the  same 
to  the  solitary  Tesbites.  Naaman,  the  Syrian, 
washed  himself  seven  times  in  these  waters,  and 
became  cured  of  his  leprosy  ;  John  the  Baptist 
baptized  the  multitudes  in  these  waters,  and  they 
stopped  with  astonishment,  looking  backward,  at 
the  presence  of  their  Maker,  who  was  baptized  by 
His  precursory 

The  Bedouins  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  the 
wild  and  wandering  descendants  of  Ruben,  Gad, 
and  Manasses,  are  always  at  war  with  the  Bed- 
ouins of  this  side  of  the  Jordan.  Without  cross- 
ing the  river,  we  can  see  only  at  a  distance  Betha- 
bam,  where  St.  John  the  Baptist  commenced  his 


208  ENVIRONS    OF   JERUSALEM. 

preaching,  and  the  remains  of  the  church  and 
monastery  erected  on  the  spot,  where  Mary  Egiz- 
iaca  retired  to  weep  for  her  sins  and  crimes,  and 
do  penance,  and  where  she  died.  There  is  a  Par- 
tial Indulgence  attached  to  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
church  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  on  the  desert 
of  St.  Jerome,  both  on  this  side  of  the  river. 
Mount  Abarim,  and  its  top,  Mount  Nebo,  from 
which  Moses  saw  the  Promised  Land,  and  where 
he  died,  are  visible  from  the  Jordan.x 

From  the  Jordan  it  is  only  one  hour's  walk  to 
the  Dead  Sea,  which  presents  a  frightful  scene  of 
desolation  ;  the  waters  run  North  and  South  with- 
out any  break  or  undulation,  and  more  like  waves 
of  oil,  between  two  walls  of  barren  and  horrible 
mountains,  whose  tops  rise  to  the  height  of  2,000 
feet.  These  pestilential  waters,  lying  4,000  feet 
below  Jerusalem,  and  1,300  below  the  Mediterra- 
nean, have  swallowed  the  charming  Pentapolis,  the 
luxuriant  cities  of  Sodoma,  Gomorra,  Aclama,  Se- 
baim,  and  the  small  Segor,  after  they  were  burn- 
ed by  lire  from  heaven,  the  family  of  Lot  being 
first  saved.  The  smallest  birds  could  not  find 
a  blade  of  grass  amongst  these  rocks  ;  everything 
announces  this  the  country  of  a  reprobate  people, 
and  it  seems  to  breathe  the  horror  of  that  incest 
whence  sprang  Ammon  and  Moab.  Yet  birds 
may  'be  seen  crossing  the  shore,  and  some  ducks 
can  be  found  on  its  waters,  which,  being  bitumin- 
ous and  thick,  do  not  let  a  person  sink.  A  horse 
cannot  swim,  but  would  be  carried  like  a  piece 
of  cork.  Its  waters  make  the  skin  smart  very 


THE   DEAD    SEA.  209 

badly.  Everything  around  is  covered  with  salt. 
The  heat  here  is  intense  and  smothering ;  no 
breeze  ever  cools  the  weary  pilgrim  ;  the  strand 
is  burning,  and  the  water  dead.  This  lake  is  call- 
ed Asphaltiles,  by  the  Greeks  and  Latins,  and 
Strabo  mentions  thirteen  cities  swallowed  up  in  its 
waters.  There  are  some  shrubs  near  these  pestilen- 
tial localities,  producing  a  fruit  like  the  little 
Egyptian  lemon  ;  before  it  is  ripe  it  fills  with  a 
corrosive  and  saline  juice,  and  when  dried  it 
yields  a  blackish  seed,  which  may  be  compared  to 
ashes,  and  the  taste  is  bitter.  Phosphoric  stones 
and  springs  are  in  abundance,  bitumen  is  common, 
and  perhaps  the  cities  which  were  destroyed  were 
built  on  bituminous  land,  and  it  may  be  that  even 
they  were  erected  of  bituminous  stones.  Fire 
from  heaven  kindled  and  burned  them  up.  In  the 
lake  there  are  mountains  and  valleys  of  salt./ 

From  the  Dead  Sea,  pilgrims  go  to  visit  the 
famous  and  old  convent  of  St.  Saba,  belonging  to 
the  Greeks,  who  give  no  hospitality,  except  to 
sleep  in  the  yard  under  tents  provided  by  the 
Dragoman.  This  convent  is  built  on  the  side  of 
the  rocks,  overhanging  immense  precipices  on 
the  very  ravine  of  the  brook  Cedron.  There 
are  many  caverns  in  which  thousands  of  hermits 
once  spent  their  days.  St.  John  Damascene  died 
here.  This  convent  has  been  frequently  robbed 
by  the  Bedouins,  and  the  Monks  murdered.  It 
is  now  fortified  like  a  castle,  surrounded  with  can- 
nons and  other  arms.  From  this  convent  in  a 
short  time  we  arrived  at  Jerusalem^ 


210  ENVIRONS   OF   JERUSALEM. 

\  Emmaus  is  only  a  few  miles  from  Jerusalem. 
Nothing  remarkable  is  to  be  seen  in  this  miser- 
able village,  but  there  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence 
to  be  gained  ;  a  Partial  Indulgence  blesses  the 
spot  where  Our  Saviour  joined  the  two  apostles, 
and  another  on  the  tomb  of  Samuel. \ 

After  having  seen  the  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea, 
I  fell  sick  and  suffered  severely  from  colic,  es- 
pecially during  the  night,  yet  I  took  no  particular 
notice  of  it.  I  made  arrangements  to  remain  over 
night  in  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  in  order 
to  have  the  happiness  to  celebrate  upon  the  sa- 
cred tomb  of  Our  Saviour  on  the  day  of  the 
Christmas  of  the  Greeks,  which  is  the  Epiphany 
of  the  Armenians.  I  attended  the  vespers  of  the 
Latins,  and  the  daily  procession  ;  after  which  the 
doors  of  the  church  were  shut  up  by  the  Turks. 
Many  schismatic  Greeks  and  Armenian  pilgrims 
remained  in  the  church  during  the  night.  I  took 
supper  in  the  Hospice  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 
The  guardian,  an  intelligent  monk,  kept  me  com- 
pany. After  supper  I  attended  the  compline, 
which,  in  the  night,  and  recited  so  solemnly,  pro- 
duced in  me  feelings  beyond  expression  ;  after  it 
I  retired  to  the  room  prepared  for  me.\ 

The  great  dampness  of  the  room,  making  every 
thing  wet,  and  the  abominable  noise  of  the  Rus- 
sian, Greek,  and  Armenian  pilgrims  who  were  in 
the  Church,  prevented  me  from  sleeping,  and  I 
had  another  severe  attack  of  colic.  At  midnight 
the  bell  for  matins  rung  ;  I  got  up  and  I  saw  the 
Pontifical  High  Mass  of  the  Greek  Patriarch  at 


MY    SICKNESS.  211 

the  Holy  Sepulchre.  My  colic  returned  and  I 
vomited  twice  ;  my  great  trouble  was  the  fear  of 
not  being  able  to  say  mass.  At  the  end  of  the 
Pontifical,  my  colic  increased.  I  was  notified  to 
say  the  first  mass,  but  requested  permission  to 
say  the  second.  It  was  about  two  or  three 
o'clock  A.  M.  My  colic  continued,  but  not  so  se- 
vere. Finally,  I  succeeded  in  celebrating  mass 
in  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  but  God  knows  how  !  It  is 
impossible  to  express  the  feelings  in  celebrating 
mass  on  the  tomb  of  Our  Saviour  ;  at  least  for 
me  it  required  strong  nerves  and  continued  efforts 
to  compose  my  mind  to  render  me  capable  of  going 
through  mass  ;  and  how  I  did  it  God  alone  knows, 
I  do  not  remember.  I  only  recollect  that  in  re- 
citing the  Credo,  at  the  words,  "  et  H1O  sepultus 
est"  I  was  so  nervous,  that  it  required  an  extra- 
ordinary effort  to  continue.  I  gave  communion 
to  several  Pilgrims./ 

Here  I  wish  to  remark,  that  in  these  sanctua- 
ries there  are  peculiar  privileges  in  rubric,  and 
proper  masses  are  granted,  viz.  :  In  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  mass  is  always  said  De  Resurrectione^ 
with  Gloria  and  Credo,  without  any  commemora- 
tion, no  matter  what  might  be  the  day  ;  and  so 
with  the  other  Altars  and  Sanctuaries.! 

Amongst  the  Pilgrims,  I  noticed  a  marchioness, 
a  wealthy  lady  from  Germany,  who  had  succeed- 
ed in  obtaining  a  residence  in  the  Casa  Nuova,  in 
order  to  spend  the  rest  of  her  life  in  Jerusalem. 
Her  relations  and  friends  had  in  vain  endeavored 
to  recall  her  to  Germany.  She  had  left  there  an 


212  EJSTVIKONS    OF   JERUSALEM. 

agent  to  attend  to  her  temporal  affairs,  and  there 
she  was  supporting  many  poor  people.  She  was 
practicing  much  charity  in  Jerusalem  ;  amongst  the 
other  things,  she  had  carpeted  and  furnished  the 
rooms  of  the  Pilgrims  in  the  Casa  Nuova.  She, 
although  in  very  feeble  health,  daily  visited 
the  sanctuaries,  and  refused  to  take  any  other 
kind  of  food,  except  that  which  was  given  to  the 
Pilgrims.\ 

After  mass  the  colic  increased  terribly,  and  I 
vomited  again.  I  took  some  good  coffee,  but 
was  racked  with  pain. 

Being  the  Armenian  Epiphany,  the  Turks  had 
opened  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  two  o'clock  A.  M., 
and  I  hastened  to  the  Casa  Nuova,  but  before  I 
could  reach  my  room  I  vomited  again  in  the  little 
parlor  of  the  brother  who  had  the  charge  of  the 
door.  I  requested  him  to  send  me  the  doctor,  an 
Italian,  and  good  physician,  who  was  then  stop- 
ping at  the  Casa  Nuova.  I  went  to  bed  and  the 
doctor  came  immediately  and  gave  me  some  pills. 
The  colic  lasted  for  eight  days  and  nights,  some- 
times very  severe,  but  it  never  left  me  during 
that  period  of  time.  For  two  days  I  was  so  ill 
that  I  had  three  doctors.  I  was  thinking  of  leaving 
my  bones  under  the  shadow  of  Mount  Sion,  in  a 
strange  land,  although  in  the  Promised  Land,  far 
from  my  relatives  and  friends  in  Italy  ;  far  from 
my  people  in  America  ;  but  the  idea  of  dying  in 
Jerusalem,  to  be  buried  near  the  valley  of  Jehosa- 
phat,  the  seat  of  the  universal  judgment,  either 
under  the  shadow  of  the  Mountain  of  God — 


KESIGNED    TO    MY   FATE.  213 

Mount  Sion,  in  the  Catholic  graveyard  nnder  that 
mountain,  out  of  the  city,  or  as  a  pilgrim,  to 
claim  a  sepulchre  in  the  Aceldama,  the  Potter's 
field,  purchased  with  the  money  of  Judas — the 
price  of  the  blood  of  Christ,  my  Saviour !  Ro- 
mantic as  it  may  appear,  it  did  not  suit  me  at 
that  time,  yet  I  was  resigned  to  my  fate./ 


CHAPTER    X. 

BETHLEHEM   AND   HEBRON. 

1  RECOVERY — DEPARTURE  FOR  BETHLEHEM — UNPLEASANT  ACCIDENT — JACOB*  8  TOW- 
ER— TOMB  OF   RACHEL — BETHLEHEM — MILK   GROTTO — BETHLEHEM    CHURCH 

8T.  JOSEPH'S  HOUSE THE  SHEPHEKD's  VILLAGE — SOLOMON'S  POOLS — MAMBRE'8 

VALLEY — HEBRON BEITGIALA — HOUSE    OF    ST.     ELIZABETH DESERT    OF    ST. 

JOHN  THE  BAPTIST.s 

'  ALTHOUGH  my  friends  had  left  Palestine,  Fath- 
er Emanuel  had  gone  to  Egypt,  and  Father  E., 
tired  of  the  desolation  of  these  barren  deserts  and 
ruins,  said  that  he  would  rather  spend  his  money 
in  some  better  county,  and  went  to  Italy,  the 
Friars  gave  me  every  assistance.  This  Italian 
doctor  from  Milan  took  so  much  care  of  me,  that 
I  may  in  some  respect  attribute  my  recovery  to 
him.  He  not  only  prepared  the  medicines  for 
me  himself  in  the  apothecary  store  of  the  Con- 
vent, varying  them  occasionally  according  to  my 
condition,  but  went  himself  to  the  kitchen  to  pre- 
pare food  for  me,  or  giving  directions  to  the  cook. 
The  Arab  Abdailah,  was  continually  at  my  ser- 
vice. The  door-keeper  and  many  Friars  visited 
me  continually.  I  take  this  occasion  to  express 
my  thanks  to  the  good  Fathers  and  Brothers  of 
the  Casa  Nuova&n&  of  the  Convent  of  St.  Saviour 
to  the  Doctor,  Abdailah,  and  to  the  pilgrims,  who 
came  to  see  me  and  gave  me  every  kind  of  help  dur- 

(214) 


DEPARTURE  FOR  BETHLEHEM.       215 

ing  my  sickness  in  Jerusalem.  Fra  Luigi  the 
door-keeper  and  other  Monks  visited  me.  I  was  so 
ill,  that  I  was  obliged  to  submit  to  the  humiliat- 
ing process  of  an  injection.  Many  Pilgrims  con- 
stantly came  to  me  and  kept  me  company.  When 
I  got  up  I  was  so  weak  that  I  could  hardly  walk. 
For  several  days  I  said  mass  at  St.  Saviour's,  and 
took  my  meals  in  my  room,  not  being  able,  nor  al- 
lowed to  use  the  common  fare  or  food  of  the  pil- 
grims. The  first  visit  I  made  after  my  sickness 
was  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre  ;  the  next  to  the  Gar- 
den of  Gethsemani ;  but  I  was  so  prostrated,  that 
I  was  obliged  to  rest  on  the  rock  where  St. 
Stephen  was  stoned  and  on  that  where  the  incon- 
solable St.  Thomas  used  to  sit,  solitary,  and  emit- 
ting mournful  sighs.  In  the  Garden  of  Gethsemani 
I  was  obliged  to  lie  down  on  the  divan  for  an  en- 
tire hou  r.  I  returned  to  the  Oasa  Nuova  in  such  an 
exhausted  condition  that  the  doctor  warned  me 
not  to  expose  myself  again,  as  the  fever  had  in- 
creased. \ 

In  the  company  of  some  other  Pilgrims,  I  re- 
solved to  visit  Bethlehem,  only  two  hours  distant 
from  Jerusalem,  and  then  from  that  place  go  to 
Hebron.  I  hired  a  mule,  thinking  it  better  than 
a  horse,  and  I  bargained  that  an  Arab  should  be 
continually  by  my  side  to  assist  me,  being  too 
feeble  to  ride.  I  intended  to  walk  on  foot  to  Beth- 
lehem, the  distance  not  being  great ;  as  it  is  cus- 
tomary for  Pilgrims  to  do  so,  for  the  first  time  only, 
through  devotion  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  of  St. 
Joseph,  for  they  walked  that  road  so  often  on  foot 


216         BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

On  Christmas  Eve,  and  on  the  day  of  the  Purifica- 
tion of  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mary,  every  one  per- 
forms this  journey  on  foot ;  but  for  me  it  was  out 
of  the  question,  in  my  present  condition.x 

We  passed  the  mountain  of  the  Evil  Counsel, 
and  entered  the  valley  Raphaim,  or  valley  of  the 
Giants,  where  the  Philistines  had  so  often  provok- 
ed David,  and  were  defeated  by  him.  No  tree  or 
habitation  is  visible.  Close  to  the  right  is  the  site  of 
the  house  of  the  old  priest,  Simeon,  who  had  the 
grace  to  hold  in  his  hands  the  infant  Jesus,  accord- 
ing to  the  answer  which  he  had  received  from  the 
Holy  Ghost.  A  Partial  Indulgence  may  be  here 
obtained.  Near  here  there  was  a  turpentine 
tree  which  had  sheltered  the  Blessed  Yirgin 
very  often.  Here  my  mule  threw  me  flat  to  the 
ground,  but,  thanks  to  God,  it  was  mud,  as  we 
had  just  emerged  from  a  rocky  road.  I  might 
have  been  killed  on  the  spot.  I  rose,  plastered 
with  mud  and  dirt,  and  reflected  that  I  was  allow- 
ed to  perform  at  least  a  few  steps  of  my  pilgrim- 
age on  foot.  The  mule  ran  away,  but  providen- 
tially there  was  a  number  of  Arabs,  whom  I  sent 
to  catch  the  beast.  My  Arab  was  still  out  of  sight, 
and  if  he  had  been  there  he  could  have  done  nothing, 
because  he  was  too  old.  With  some  difficulty  and 
backsheesh,  they  caught  the  mule  and  I  adjusted 
myself  again  on  it,  and  as  my  feebleness  did  not 
allow  me  to  manage  it,  I  engaged  another  Arab  to 
lead  the  mule  into  Bethlehem,  and  he  in  company 
with  another  went  side  by  side  with  my  mule. 
About  mid-way  we  passed  a  well,  called  the 


WELL    OF    DAYID.  217 

% 

"  Well  of  the  Three  Kings]'  in  memory  of  the 
three  wise  men  who  at  this  spot  watered  their 
horses.  This  is  the  place  where  the  star,  which 
had  disappeared,  was  seen  again  by  the  wise  men, 
and  there  is  granted  to  it  a  Partial  Indulgence. 
Not  far  off  we  reached  a  Greek  Convent,  where 
the  Greeks  show  a  rock  bearing  the  impression  of 
a  man,  saying  that  St.  Elias,  fleeing  from  the  face 
of  Jezabel,  slept  on  it  leaving  there  his  image. 
To  this  place  is  also  attached  a  Partial  Indul- 
gence. Close  to  the  right  are  the  r'uins  of  an  ancient 
church,  consecrated  to  the  Prophet  Abacuc,  on  the 
site  where  he  was  taken  by  the  hair  by  an  angel 
and  dropped  into  the  den  of  lions  where  was  the 
Prophet  Daniel.  (Partial  Indulgence. )\ 

After  fifteen  minutes  of  journeying  we  came 
to  the  spot  where  once  existed  a  tower  called, 
"Jacob's  Tower."  It  was  erected  to  mark  the 
spot  where  that  holy  patriarch  encamped  after 
his  return  from  Mesopotamia.  How  gratifying 
to  think  that  on  this  field,  Abraham,  Isaac,  and 
Jacob,  lived  a  pastoral  life !  Partial  Indulgence. 
We  now  arrived  at  the  tomb  of  the  beautiful  Ra- 
chel, who  spent  fourteen  years  in  servitude  and 
finished  her  days  just  about  the  time  when  she 
commenced  to  enjoy  them.  Partial  Indulgence. 
Here  we  met  the  Sheik  of  the  Bedouins  of  this 
place,  on  horseback,  and  armed  to  the  teeth. 
The  dragoman  introduced  him  to  me,  saying  that 
he  was  keeping  the  road  free  from  robbers : 
backsheesh  of  course.\ 

Here  the  road  forked,  and  my  Arabs  said  that 
ii.— U 


218         BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

they  could  now  assist  me  no  longer,  because  they 
had  to  go  by  the  other  way  ;  but  I  insisted  that 
they  should  accompany  me.  I  refused  to  pay 
them  till  my  arrival  at  Bethlehem,  which  was  only 
a  short  distance.  The  Arabs  seeing  my  determi- 
nation agreed  to  go  with  me  to  Bethlehem.  Here 
we  were  in  sight  of  the  village  of  Rama,  where 
Rachel's  voice  resounded :  "  A  voice  in  Hama 
was  heard,  lamentation  and  great  mourning: 
Rachel  bewailing  Tier  children,  and  would  not  be 
comforted,  because  they  are  not?*1  After  passing 
near  to  the  village  of  Beit-Gialla,  where  there  is 
a  large  fine  Latin  Church,  and  the  Seminary  of 
the  Patriarch,  we  came  in  sight  of  Bethlehem 
(the  House  of  Bread),  a  name  given  to  it  by  Abra- 
ham. It  was  surnamed  Ephrata  (the  fruitful),  after 
Caleb's  wife,  in  the  tribe  of  Juda,  in  order  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  another  Bethlehem  in  the  tribe  of 
Zabulon.  Just  about  entering  the  city,  we  saw 
the  well  of  David,  who,  confined  in  the  cave 
of  Odolla,  although  amid  the  grandeur  of  his  roy- 
alty, remembered  with  pleasure  the  happy  days 
of  his  youth,  and  he  longed  for  a  drink  of  water 
from  this  well,  situated  near  the  gate  of  his  dear 
Bethlehem.  He  received  it,  and  made  a  sac- 
rifice of  it  to  the  Lord.  We  drove  to  the  Latin 
Convent  where  we  were  very  kindly  received.\ 

Bethlehem,  the  birthplace  of  David,  was  call- 
ed also  the  City  of  David  ;  here  he  tended  sheep 
in  his  boyhood.  Abijah,  the  second  judge  of 
Israel,  was  born  here  ;  so  also  were  Elimelech, 
Obed,  Jesse,  Boaz,  and  the  apostle  St.  Matthias. 


GROTTO    OF   THE   VIRGIN.  219 

Bethlehem,  at  a  distance,  presents  a  fine  and  im- 
posing appearance  ;  but  in  the  interior  it  is  just 
like  the  rest  of  the  towns  of  Palestine.     I  remark- 
ed, however,  a  cheerful  appearance  amongst  the 
Bethlehemites,  and   I   saw  them   several   times 
laughing,  and  their  children  playing  and  enjoying 
themselves  ;  a  thing  that  I  had  never  observed 
in  any  other  part  of  Palestine.     Bethlehem  con- 
tains about   2,500  inhabitants,  and  they  are  al- 
most all  Christians  and  Catholic.     In  the  most 
prominent  part  of  the  city,  rising  above  all  other 
buildings,  towers  the  embattled  monastery,  an  en- 
ormous  pile   of  buildings,  containing  the  Latin, 
Greek,  arid  Armenian  convents,  which  surround 
the  church  built  upon  the  greatest  Sanctuary  of 
the  World.     After  dinner  my  Arab  arrived,  and 
I  upbraided  him  for  having  left  mj'  mule  ;  he  ex- 
cused himself,  saying  that  being  old  he  had  not 
been  able  to  keep  up  with  the  rest  of  the  party. 
We  went  to  the  Milk  Grotto,  where  the  Holy 
Family  retired  for  some  days  before  their  flight 
into  Egypt.     Tradition  says  that  some  drops  of 
the  milk  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  fell  upon  the  rock, 
which  from  being  black  was  immediately  convert- 
ed  into   the   color   of  milk.      Water   in  which 
some  of  this  stone  has  been  placed,  when  drank, 
has  the  supernatural  virtue  of  increasing  a  wo- 
man's milk!     This   cave   is  now   turned  into  a 
chapel,  and  there  is  a  Partial  Indulgence.     Upon 
this  grotto  there  was  once  a  church  dedicated  to 
St.  Nicholas./ 

My  room  at  the  convent  commanded  a   full 


220         BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

view  of  the  field  of  Boaz,  where  Ruth,  the 
Moabitess,  followed  those  who  were  harvesting, 
in  order  to  gather  the  heads  of  wheat  left  by 
them.  In  company  with  an  Italian  doctor,  whose 
acquaintance  I  had  made  in  Jerusalem,  I  went  to 
see  the  town,  which  is  a  miserable  heap  of  rub- 
bish, and  prisons  of  plaster,  mud  and  stone,  de- 
nominated houses.  In  the  evening,  as  a  pilgrim, 
I  joined  the  daily  procession.  In  the  night  I  de- 
scended again  into  the  Crypt,  alone,  to  perform 
my  devotions.X 

My  mind  was  wandering,  thinking  of  that 
great  night,  when  this  grotto  afforded  an  asylum 
to  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  St.  Joseph,  and  which 
had  the  honor  to  become  the  birthplace  of  its 
Maker.  God  alone  is  the  witness  of  my  senti- 
ments on  that  night,  which  is  always  present  to 
my  memory.  On  retiring,  I  could  no  longer  find 
the  staircase.  I  went  to  the  wrong  end,  which 
led  to  the  Armenian  convent.  I  descended  again, 
and  going  round  the  Crypt  by  the  light  of  the 
many  lamps  and  my  taper,  I  went  through  the 
door  which  leads  to  the  Grotto  of  St.  Jerome, 
then  to  that  of  his  school,  then  to  his  tomb.  Tak- 
ing another  direction,  I  went  to  the  Grotto  of  St. 
Eusebius ;  thence  to  the  tomb  of  the  Holy  Inno- 
cents ;  to  that  of  St.  Paula  and  of  her  daughter, 
St.  Eustochium  ;  back  again  to  the  Crypt ;  then 
again  to  the  same  grottoes  for  two  or  three  times  ; 
and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  I  succeeded 
in  finding  my  way  out  alone  in  the  solitary  silence 
of  the  night.  At  three  A.  M.  I  said  mass  in  the 


LATIN    CONVENT.  221 

Crypt  of  Our  Saviour,  on  the  altar  on  the  spot 
where  the  Virgin  presented  the  infant  Jesus  to  be 
adored  by  the  Kings.  The  Indulgences  attached 
to  this  Sanctuary  are  three  Plenary  Indulgences, 
one  to  the  Crypt  of  Our  Saviour,  one  to  the  Man- 
ger, the  other  at  the  Altar  of  the  Adoration  of  the 
Wise  Men.  There  are  also  seven  Partial  Indul- 
gences ;  1st.  To  the  Altar  of  St.  Joseph  (where 
he  retired  at  the  moment  of  the  birth  of  Our  Sa- 
viour) ;  2d.  To  the  tomb  of  the  Holy  Innocents  ; 
3d.  To  the  tomb-  of  St.  Eusebius,  Abbot ;  4th. 
To  the  tomb  of  Sts.  Paula  and  Eustochium  ;  5th. 
To  the  tomb  of  St.  Jerome  ;  6th.  To  the  Oratory 
of  St.  Jerome  ;  7th.  To  the  School  of  St.  Jerome./ 

The  Latin  Convent  connects  with  the  church  by 
a  covered  yard  or  hall  enclosed  with  lofty  walls  ; 
a  side  door  leads  to  the  church.  The  first  Chris- 
tians erected  a  chapel  over  the  Manger  of  Our 
Saviour.  By  order  of  Adrian  it  was  demolished 
and  a  statue  of  Adonis  erected  in  its  place.  St. 
Helena  destroyed  the  idol,  and  built  the  church 
on  the  same  spot,  although  many  additions  have 
been  constructed  by  Christian  princes.  Hence 
this  edifice  is  of  great  antiquity.  No  doubt  it  has 
often  been  destroyed,  but  it  has  always  been  re- 
paired, and  it  still  retains  marks  of  Grecian  ori- 
gin. The  church  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  cross. 
The  principal  nave,  or  I  would  rather  say,  the 
foot  of  the  cross,  belongs  at  present  to  the  Arme- 
nians ;  the  two  side  ones  and  the  sanctuary  of  the 
Magi  are  occupied  by  the  Greeks.  The  Latins 
have  nothing,  except  the  privilege  of  passing 


222        BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

from  the  church  of  the  convent,  through  the  choir 
of  the  Armenians,  in  order  to  go  down  to  the 
Crypt.  The  long  nave  is  adorned  with  forty- 
eight  Corinthian  columns,  in  four  rows,  eighteen 
feet  high,  and  two  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter. 
The  roof  was  never  finished,  or  not  built  at  all,  so 
the  pillars  support  only  a  frieze  of  wood.  Open 
timber-work  of  the  cedars  of  Lebanon,  as  it  is 
said,  rests  upon  the  walls,  and  rises  in  the  form 
of  a  dome  to  support  the  roof  that  does  not  exist. 
The  windows  are  large  and  adorned  with  mosaic 
paintings,  and  passages  from  the  Scriptures  in 
Greek  and  Latin.  The  long  nave  is  separated 
from  the  three  other  branches  of  the  cross  by  a 
wall,  so  that  the  unity  of  the  edifice  is  destroyed. 
Here  and  there  remains  of  mosaics  can  be  seen, 
and  some  fine  Italian  and  Spanish  paintings  and 
sculptures.  The  main  altar  is  dedicated  to  the 
Wise  Men  of  the  East.  On  the  pavement  at  the 
foot  of  the  altar,  there  is  a  marble  star  which  cor- 
responds with  the  point  of  the  heavens  where  the 
miraculous  star  that  led  the  Wise  Men  became 
stationary.  The  spot  where  Our  Saviour  was 
bora,  is  exactly  underneath  this  marble  star,  in 
the  subterranean  Church  of  the  Manger.\ 

The  subterranean  Church,  which  is  the  place 
of  the  Nativity  of  Our  Saviour,  is  entered  by  two 
spiral  staircases  of  fifteen  steps  each,  one  belong- 
ing to  the  Latins,  the  other  to  the  Armenians  and 
Greeks.  This  most  sacred  Sanctuary  is  irregular, 
because  it  occupies  the  irregular  site  of  the  stable. 
It  is  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  and  is  a  little  over 


BIRTH-PLACE   OF   OUR   SAVIOUR.  223 

thirty-seven  feet  in  length,  eleven  broad,  and 
nine  high.  The  floor,  the  place  where  Our  Sa- 
viour was  born,  and  the  site  of  the  manger,  are 
cased  with  beautiful  marble,  the  work  of  St. 
Helena ;  but  the  walls  and  ceiling  are  covered 
with  fine  tapestry,  now  falling  into  rags,  and  no- 
body dares  to  repair  or  replace  them  for  fear  of 
the  jealousy  of  the  Schismatics.  No  light  pene- 
trates from  the  outside  ;  but  the  Crypt  is  illu- 
minated by  the  thirty-two  lamps,  sent  by  dif- 
ferent princes,  which  burn  day  and  night.  The 
original  entrance  is  walled  up  ;  at  the  further  ex- 
tremity on  the  east  side,  is  the  spot  where  the 
Blessed  Virgin  brought  forth  the  Redeemer  of 
the  World.  This  spot  is  marked  by  a  circle  of 
marble,  covered  with  jasper,  and  a  circular  plate 
of  silver,  surrounded  by  rays  of  the  same  mater- 
ial, around  which  are  written  the  following  words  : 

"HIC  DE  YIEGINE  MAKIA 
JESUS  CHEISTUS  JSTATUS  EST." 

(Here  Jesus  Christ  was  born  of  the  Yirgin  Mary.)/ 

These  rays  resemble  those  with  which  the  sun  is 
represented.  A  fine  rich  marble  altar  is  erected 
over  this  spot,  which  belongs  to  the  Greeks. 
About  seven  paces  towards  the  south  is  the  man- 
ger. It  is  a  low  recess  excavated  out  of  the  rock, 
two  steps  lower  than  the  Crypt.  The  spot  where 
the  infant  Jesus  was  laid  upon  straw,  is  marked 
by  a  block  of  marble  hollowed  in  the  form  of  a 
manger,  and  raised  one  foot  above  the  floor.  It 
belongs  to  the  Latins,  but  the  altar  is  located  two 


224         BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

paces  opposite  to  the  manger,  on  the  site  where 
the  Blessed  Virgin  sat,  when  presenting  the  Child 
to  be  adored  by  the  Wise  Men. 

From  this  Grotto  we  passed  to  the  subterranean 
Church  of  the  Holy  Innocents,  a  spot  where  many 
children  were  killed,  and  many  of  their  relics  are 
kept  under  the  altar.  From  this  chapel  there  is 
a  passage  to  the  Grotto  of  St.  Jerome,  where  we 
saw  his  sepulchre,  and  the  tombs  of  the  two  noble 
Roman  ladies,  Paula  and  Eustochium.  From  this 
place  we  passed  into  the  School  of  St.  Jerome, 
where  this  Holy  Father  and  great  Doctor  made 
his  version  of  the  Holy  Scripture.  Here  this 
great  luminary  of  the  Church  spent  the  best  of  his 
life  in  penance  and  prayer,  flying  from  the  charms 
and  temptations  of  Rome  and  other  cities.  On 
Christmas  night  and  day  the  Catholics  have  ex- 
clusive possession  of  the  entire  Crypt.  On  this 
year  there  were  masses  from  midnight  till  5  p.  MA 

We  went  then  to  see  the  site  where  tradition 
says  that  there  was  a  house  in  which  St.  Joseph 
lived;  and  where  there  is  a  Partial  Indulgence. 
It  appeared  to  me,  at  first,  that  the  tradition  was 
contrary  to  the  Gospel,  because  St.  Joseph  had  no 
house,  and  was  obliged  to  take  shelter  in  a  stable. 
Yet,  reflecting  that  St.  Joseph  belonged  to  the  tribe 
of  Juda,  he  might  have  possessed  a  house  which 
he  might  have  afterwards  sold.  It  is  certain,  by 
the  Gospel,  that  he  had  relatives  in  Bethlehem  ; 
hence  he  might  have  there  possessed  some  prop- 
erty. Besides  it  is  hardly  possible  that  St.  Joseph 
would  have  left  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  Child  al- 


VILLAGE   OF   THE   SHEPHEKDS.  225 

ways  in  that  stable,  till  their  flight  into  Egypt ;  a 
space  of  time  of  over  forty  days  between  the  Na- 
tivity of  Our  Saviour  and  the  Purification.  Hence, 
St.  Joseph  might  have  rented  a  house  in  Bethle- 
hem to  dwell  in.  It  is  not  safe  to  reject  traditions 
handed  down  to  us  by  the  primitive  Christians. 

The  Spring  of  St.  Philip,  where  the  deacon  of 
that  name  baptized  the  Eunuch  of  Queen  Candace, 
is  about  one  hour  north  of  this  place.  (Partial 
Indulgence. )\ 

In  traveling  through  these  localities  it  is  neces- 
sary to  be  in  company  with  a  strong  force,  as 
these  plains  are  infested  by  Bedouins,  who  are 
robbers  and  assassins,  who  think  little  of  taking 
away  your  life  for  one  dollar.  "We  went  to  the 
Village  of  the  Shepherds.  How  cheering  to  me  it 
was  to  see  them !  Those  simple  Arabs,  who  are 
nearly  all  Catholics,  coming  to  Bethlehem,  and 
hearing  the  charming  notes  of  the  organ  of  the 
Latins,  leave  their  camels  and  go  into  the  Crypt 
to  worship  their  Creator  as  in  time  of  yore.\ 

Having  crossed  the  field  of  Boaz,  we  passed  the 
site  where  there  was  once  a  tower  indicating  the 
spot  where  Jacob,  after  the  death  of  Eachel,  pitched 
his  tent,  attracted  by  the  abundance  of  pasture. 

The  Tillage  of  the  Shepherds  is  on  the  side  of  a 
mountain.  We  went  to  the  place  wrhere  they 
were  watching  and  keeping  guard  over  their  flocks, 
when  the  Angel  appeared  to  them  announcing  the 
happy  news  of  the  birth  of  Our  Saviour,  How 
natural  it  seemed  to  me,  to  see  the  shepherds 
watching  the  numerous  flocks  that  were  grazing  on 


226         BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

the  mountains,  as  in  olden  times.  Over  this  spot 
there  is  a  church  belonging  to  the  Greeks.  (Plen- 
ary Indulgence.)  We  passed  the  ruins  of  an  an- 
cient convent.  About  one  mile  off  from  what  they 
call  a  road,  there  are  the  remains  of  the  Monas- 
tery of  Ste.  Paula.  (A  Partial  Indulgence.)  There 
is  also  a  Partial  Indulgence  at  Tecua,  the  place  of 
the  prophet  Amos.  These  solitary  mountains  ap- 
peared as  if  they  were  still  echoing  the  sound  of 
the  pastoral  horn  with  which  this  prophet,  seat- 
ed upon  a  steep  ravine,  enlivened  the  gloom  of 
these  solitudes,  while  his  herds  were  feeding  in  the 
valley.  We  went  by  the  mountain  on  which 
Herod  the  Great  built  the  Erodian  castle,  to 
which  400  crusaders  retired,  and  held  heroically 
for  many  years  ;  this  was  the  last  ground  kept  by 
them  against  the  Saracens. \ 

Hebron  is  only  seven  hours  distant  from  Beth- 
lehem. There  is  no  sanctuary  there,  but  the  coun- 
try teems  with  historical  and  Scriptural  reminis- 
cences. The  entire  Holy  Land  can  be  said  to  be 
a  continuous  Sanctuary.  We  passed  the  Hortus 
Conclusus,  where  there  is  a  nursery  for  the  raising 
of  trees  which  are  to  be  transplanted  to  other 
places,  and  which  is  the  figure  of  the  Blessed  Vir- 
gin, and  of  the  Church.  Above  these  are  the 
Pools  of  Solomon  ;  which  are  three,  situated  one 
above  the  other,  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre. 
The  largest  one  is  at  the  bottom,  and  is  220  paces 
long,  the  next  200,  and  the  other,  which  is  on  the 
top,  is  160  paces  long.  The  upper  one  is  twenty- 
five  feet  deep,  the  next  forty,  and  the  lowest  fifty 


THE   BLESSED   VIRGIN'S   VILLAGE.  227 

feet.  These  pools  are  fed  by  fountains  in  the  vi- 
cinity, and  through  an  aqueduct,  they  conveyed 
water  to  the  temple  of  Solomon.  Till  lately  the 
pools  and  aqueduct  were  in  ruins,  and  did  not 
transmit  the  water  farther  than  Bethlehem,  but 
when  Ibrahim  Pacha  took  possession  of  Syria,  he 
repaired  the  aqueduct,  but  it  soon  again  became 
out  of  order.  In  1865,  the  Governor,  Izzet  Pacha, 
repaired  the  largest  pool  and  the  aqueduct,  and 
now  the  water  is  conveyed  upon  Mount  Moriah  to 
the  Mosque  of  Omar.  A  little  further  to  the  right 
is  the  Fons-signatus,  so  called  because  it  was 
closed  with  the  seal  of  the  king,  and  was  opened 
only  at  his  comma nd.\ 

Three  miles  from  Hebron,  by  the  road-side, 
there  is  a  village  called  the  Blessed  Virgin's  Vil- 
lage, because  it  is  said  that  it  was  the  place  where 
she  slept  on  the  first  night  of  her  flight  into  Egypt. 
Yet  as  it  is  not  certain,  whether  the  Holy  Family 
started  from  Bethlehem,  or  from  Nazareth,  so  if 
it  was  not  on  that  night,  it  may  have  been  on  some 
other  occasion.  Near  this  locality  is  a  well  cal- 
led Sarah's  Well.  Here  lived  the  family  of  Abra- 
ham. Now  the  road  passes  through  the  delight- 
ful and  beautiful  valley  of  Mambre.  Here  the 
Father  of  the  believers  pitched  his  tent,  and  ex- 
ercised the  charitable  duty  of  lodging  the  pilgrims 
and  travelers  that  passed  through  this  place. 
Here  an  ancient  and  majestic  oak  is  observed, 
which  is  either  the  same  or  resembles  that  oak, 
standing  on  this  spot,  under  which  Abraham  had 
the  favor  of  entertaining  the  three  Angels,  who 


228         BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

were  going  to  burn  the  wicked  cities  of  the  Penta- 
polis.  This  valley  is  about  one  mile  square,  and 
can  be  said  to  be  the  native  place  of  Isaac  and 
Jacob,  and  the  usual  residence  of  the  Patriarchs.\ 
Hebron  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  valley  of 
Eschol,  and  contains  9,000  inhabitants,  none  Chris- 
tian. King  David  kept  his  court  for  a  long  time 
here  ;  here  Absalom  plotted  against  his  father, 
David  ;  and  Isai,  David's  father,  is  believed  to  be 
buried  near  this  city.  Next  to  Damascus  this  is 
the  oldest  city  in  the  world.  When  the  Israelites 
entered  the  Promised  Land,  this  city  was  assigned 
to  Caleb  as  a  reward  for  his  fidelity.  It  was  a 
priestly  city,  and  also  a  City  of  Refuge.  The 
greatest  object  for  the  pilgrims  is  to  see  the  cave 
and  field  of  Machpelah,  which  Abraham  bought 
from  Ephron  the  Hittite,  and  where  lie  buried 
Abraham,  and  Sarah,  his  wife,  Isaac,  Rebecca,  and 
Leah,  and  perhaps  Joseph,  who  was  brought  up 
out  of  Egypt.  The  Mussulmans  pretend  that  the 
Patriarch  Joseph  was  buried  there,  to  a  certain- 
ty, but  they  are  mistaken  ;  his  bones  were  taken 
by  his  descendants  in  their  flight  from  Egypt,  and 
buried  in  Sichem,  according  to  Josue.  St.  Helena 
here  built  a  magnificent  church,  but  it  is  now 
turned  into  a  mosque,  into  which  no  Christians 
are  allowed  to  enter.  It  is  said  the  Prince  of 
Wales  got  admittance  on  account  of  a  large  sum 
of  money  paid  ;  yet  it  is  never  certain  that,  when 
Christians  are  permitted  to  enter  this  cave,  that 
in  reality  they  see  the  tombs  of  the  Patriarchs. 
The  fanaticism  of  the  Mohammedans  is  such  that 


ST.   JOHN    IN  MONTANA.  229 

they  build  in  some  room  a  temporary  tomb  cov- 
ered with  fine  carpets,  and  as  near  like  as  possi- 
ble to  the  real  tomb,  and  thus  deceive  the  Chris- 
tians, making  them  believe  that  they  are  the  tombs 
of  Abraham  and  of  the  other  Patriarchs.\ 

In  returning,  it  is  convenient  to  pass  through 
Beitgiala,  and  go  to  the  Sanctuary  of  St.  John  in 
Montana,  belonging  to  the  Latins,  where  they 
have  a  convent  and  a  fine  church,  and  where  a 
daily  procession  is  performed.  There  is  a  Plen- 
ary Indulgence  on  the  place  where  St.  John  the 
Baptist  was  born.  This  is  the  spot  where  St. 
Zachariah made  the  " Benedictus,  Dominus  Deus" 
and  where  he  recovered  the  use  of  his  speech, 
which  he  had  lost.  At  the  ruins  of  the  house  of 
St.  Zachariah  there  is  a  Partial  Indulgence,  and 
another  on  the  ruins  of  the  Church  and  Convent 
of  the  Visitation.  Here  the  place  is  pointed  out 
where  St.  Elizabeth  went  to  meet  the  Blessed 
Yirgin,  who  sang  extemporaneously  the  Magnifi- 
cat. The  desert  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  the 
cave  where  he  lived  for  a  long  time  are  near  this 
locality.  This  is  the  place  where  he  did  penance  ; 
where  he  preached  the  baptism  of  penance  for  the 
remission  of  sins,  and  prepared  the  ways  of  the 
Lord.  There  is  a  Partial  Indulgence.  Not  far 
off  are  the  tombs  of  Zachary  and  St.  Elizabeth^ 
the  parents  of  St.  John  the  Baptist.  Traversing 
the  valley  of  Terebinth,  passing  by  Sataf,  a  vil- 
lage opposite  to  the  grotto  of  St.  John,  only  a  few 
miles  to  the  north,  is  the  ancient  Modin,  now  Soba, 
the  native  place  of  the  valorous  Maccabees  ;  there 


230         BETHLEHEM  AND  HEBRON. 

are  many  memories  of  the  Keligious  Mattathias, 
of  Judas  Maccabeus,  the  worthy  son  of  such  a 
father,  that  Judas,  who,  with  a  few  soldiers  de- 
feated the  army  of  the  Emperor  Antiochus.  The 
magnificent  Mausoleum  of  six  pyramids,  erected 
to  him  by  his  son  Simon,  no  longer  exists.  It  was 
destroyed  in  the  wars  during  the  time  of  Vespa- 
sian.x 

In  returning,  the  pilgrim  visits  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Cross,  in  the  hands  of  the  Latins.  This 
church  is  built  on  the  spot,  as  tradition  says,  where 
the  tree  was  planted,  that  furnished  the  wood  for 
the  Cross  of  Our  Saviour.  Partial  Indulgence. 
From  this  place  the  pilgrim  returns  to  Jerusalem. 

My  Arab  Ali  had  already  returned  to  Jerusa- 
lem, because  he  was  not  able  to  accompany  me 
any  further.\ 


CHAPTER  XL 

JERUSALEM   AGAIN. 

ItfOSQUE  OK  OMAR — MOUNT  MORIAH — ^TEMPLE  OF  SOLOMON — STONE  OF  PROPHECY- 
WELL  OK  THE  DEPARTED  SOULS— TEMPLE  OF  THE  PRESENTATION — FOUNDA- 
TIONS OF  THE  TEMPLE  OF  SOLOMON — DORIAN  GATE — A  PILGRIM  FROM  THE  ARCTIC 
POLAR  ZONE — GENERAL  REMARKS. 

\  I  WAS  preparing  to  leave  Jerusalem.  Just  on 
the  day  of  Purification  T  received  an  invitation  to 
go  and  see  th^  Mosque  of  Oinar.  I  was  not  very 
anxious  to  see  the  Mosque,  but  I  wanted  to  visit 
the  spot  on  which  the  famous  Temple  of  Solomon 
stood,  and  being  the  day  of  Purification,  I 
considered  it  a  great  happiness  to  be  on  that 
ground  on  which,  on  that  very  same  day  nineteen 
centuries  ago,  Our  Divine  Redeemer  was  presen- 
ted to  the  arms  of  the  holy  old  priest,  Simeon, 
who,  holding  him,  said,  "  Nutic  Dimittis  servum 
tuum,  Domine,  secundum  verbum  tuum,  in  pace" 
etc.  (Now  thou  dost  dismiss  thy  servant,  O  Lord, 
according  to  thy  word,  in  peace,)  etc.\ 

Our  party  was  composed  of  the  French,  Italian 
and  Spanish  Consuls,  the  Italian  Doctor,  who  at- 
tended me  during  my  sickness,  two  dragomen, 
an  Effendi  and  another  gentleman.  They  had  ob- 
tained the  necessary  permission,  and  accompanied 
by  three  Janizaries,  we  proceeded  to  Mount  Moriah. 

(231) 


232  JERUSALEM    AGAIN. 

We  passed  the  gate  unmolested,  and  the  guards 
presented  arms.  We  were  requested  to  take  off 
our  shoes,  which  we  did,  and  put  on  slippers  which 
we  had  brought  with  us  from  home.  Ibrahim  a 
Turk  took  charge  of  our  shoes  on  payment  of 
some  backsheesh.x 

We  entered  by  one  of  the  twelve  porticoes 
which  form  the  entrance  to  the  great  square  of  the 
Mosque,  formerly  the  great  square  of  the  Temple. 
Those  porticoes  are  irregular,  and  placed  at  un- 
equal distances  ;  some  composed  of  three  or  four 
arches,  and  some  support  a  second  row,  producing 
the  effect  of  a  double  aqueduct.  The  most  con- 
siderable of  these  porticoes  correspond  with  the 
ancient  Porta  Specio$a>oftbe  Temple.  There  are 
lamps  burning  under  these  porches.  This  court  is 
about  500  paces  in  length,  and  460  in  breadth. 
On  the  east  and  south  this  square  is  bounded  by 
the  walls  of  the  city.  About  the  centre  of  this 
court  there  is  a  smaller  one  nearly  200  paces  long 
and  150  wide,  pud  it  is  raised  like  a  platform. 
It  is  seven  feet  higher  than  the  other,  and  on  each 
of  the  four  sides,  there  is  an  ascent  by  a  flight  of 
eight  marble  steps.  In  the  centre  of  this  stands 
the  famous  Mosque  of  the  Bock,  the  very  best 
building  in  Jerusalem.  This  is  the  Mosque  of 
Omar,  "  Haram-el-Sherif"  (the  noble  Sanctuary), 
the  second  most  sacred  spot  in  the  Mohammedan 
world,  that  is,  the  next  after  Mecca  ;  the  second 
most  beautiful  Mosque,  next  after  that  of  Cordova, 
the  Alhambra  ;  the  second  most  perfect  master- 
piece of  Moorish  architecture.  Here  it  rises  a 


SOLOMON'S  TEMPLE.  233 

perfect  octagon,  surmounted  by  a  cupola  like  that 
of  St.  Peter  in  Rome,  although  of  smaller  dimen- 
sions, and  terminates  in  a  fine  crescent.  This 
Mosque  is  entered  by  four  spacious  doors  opening 
to  the  four  winds.  Close  to  it  is  a  fountain  which 
receives  the  water  from  the  Fo7is-signatus,  at 
which  the  Turks  perform  their  ablutions  before 
prayers.\ 

The  external  circumference  of  the  Mosque  is 
252  feet.  The  walls  are  lined  internally  with 
painted  bricks  covered  with  arabesque,  and  verses 
from  the  Koran  in  letters  of  gold.  The  windows 
of  the  lantern  are  adorned  with  stained  glass. 
The  interior  of  this  Mosque  is  grand  and  magnifi- 
cent. In  the  centre  is  a  large,  irregular  stone, 
about  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  which  lies  in  the  center 
of  the  Mosque,  and  over  it  is  suspended  a  canopy 
of  silk  of  various  colors.  This  rock  rises  five  feet 
above  the  marble  floor.  This  is  the  highest  point 
of  Mount  Moriah,  where  the  Temple  of  Solomon 
stood,  and  it  is  believed  that  it  was  the  Holy  *  of 
Holies.  Around  this  stone  are  twenty-four  pillars, 
three  opposite  each  side,  thereby  still  preserving 
the  octagonal  shape  ;  eight  are  plain  and  sixteen 
Corinthian.  This  is  the  Temple  of  the  Lord,  and 
there  is  a  Plenary  Indulgence. \ 

In  order  to  avoid  any  error  it  is  necessary  to 
bear  in  mind  these  few  historical  notes.  This 
magnificent  temple  erected  by  Solomon  was  de- 
stro}red  by  Nabuchodonosor  six  hundred  years 
before  the  birth  of  Christ,  four  hundred  years 
after  its  construction.  After  the  seventy  years7 
ii.— 15. 


234  JERUSALEM    AGAIN. 

captivity  it  was  rebuilt  by  Josue,  the  son  of 
Josedeck,  and  Zorobabel,  the  son  of  Salathiel.  It 
must  be  added  that  Herod,  the  Ascalonite,  wholly 
rebuilt  this  temple,  employing  eleven  thousand 
laborers  for  nine  years,  but  he  died  before  the 
completion  of  the  temple.  On  this  occasion  the 
Jews  filled  up  fearful  precipices,  and  by  cutting 
down  the  top  of  the  mountain,  formed  that  magni- 
ficent esplanade,  upon  which  they  erected  the  se- 
cond temple  to  the  east  of  the  city,  above  the 
valleys  of  Siloam  and  Jehosaphat.  It  was  in  this 
second  temple  that  Christ  was  presented  forty 
days  after  his  birth,  and  the  Blessed  Yirgin  was 
purified.  In  this  temple  Christ  disputed  with  the 
Doctors,  and  was  in  vain  tempted  by  the  devil  ; 
here  he  expelled  the  dealers,  and  entered  amidst 
acclamations,  received  with  branches  of  palms  and 
olive  trees  ;  in  a  word,  this  temple  was  the  scene  of 
what  we  read  in  the  Gospel.  This  temple  was 
destroyed  by  Titus  in  the  second  year  of  Yes- 
pasian's  reign,  in  such  a  manner  that  there  was 
not  a  stone  left  upon  another  of  that  sacred  edifice, 
where  Christ  had  performed  such  glorious  works  ; 
and  the  destruction  of  which  He  had  predicted. 
St.  Helena  constructed  here  a  magnificent  church 
called  the  Church  of  the  Presentation  of  the  Bless- 
ed Yirgin.  This  church  is  now  in  possession  of 
the  Turks,  who  have  turned  it  into  a  mosque. \ 

This  mosque  is  distinct  from  that  of  Omar,  built 
in  the  centre  of  this  esplanade.  When  Omar  I, 
successor  of  Abubeker,  and  second  Caliph  of  the 
Mussulmans  after  Mohammed,  also  father-in-law 


SOLOMON'S  TEMPLE.  235 

«, 

of  this  false  prophet,  took  Jerusalem  in  tha  year 
636,  he  gave  permission  to  the  Christians  to  re- 
tain their  churches,  and  practice  their  religion 
with  some  restrictions.  He  applied  to  the  Pa- 
triarch Sophronius,  inquiring  what  would  be  the 
most  proper  place  in  Jerusalem  for  building  a 
mosque,  and  was  delighted  to  be  conducted  by 
the  Patriarch  to  the  ruins  of  Solomon's  Tempi e.\ 
From  this  it  appears  that  the  most  of  the  site  oi 
Solomon's  Temple  had  been  abandoned  by  the 
Christians  ;  yet  I  give  no  credit  to  the  most  Rev. 
patriarch  for  his  blunder.  He  might  have  pro- 
posed some  other  locality,  and  tried  to  get  permis- 
sion to  built  a  Catholic  church  on  the  site  of  the 
Temple  of  Solomon.  Omar  cleared  this  celebrat- 
ed spot,  and  caused  the  earth  to  be  removed  from 
a  large  rock,  which  is  said  to  be  the  one  where 
God  conversed  with  Jacob,  and  which  is  the  very 
summit  of  Mount  Moriah.  Upon  this  rock  sat 
the  angel  who,  as  a  punishment  for  David's  incon- 
siderate numbering  of  the  p.ople,  slew  a  large 
number  of  them,  till  God  commanded  him  to  re- 
place his  sword  into  the  scabbard  ;  and  perhaps 
upon  this  rock  Abraham  prepared  the  alta.r  ready 
to  obey  the  commandment  of  the  Lord  to  sacrifice 
Isaac,  his  only  son.  That  Mount  Moriah  was  the 
mountain  of  the  sacrifice  of  Abraham,  there  is  no 
doubt.  This  mountain  is  connected  with  Mount 
Sion,  which  both  form  the  same  elevation  with  two 
hills,  and  it  was  known  as  Mount  Sion,  but  since 
the  sacrifice  of  Abraham,  this  patriarch  called  this 
hill  Mcunt  Moriah  (mount  of  vision).  From  this 


236  JERUSALEM    AGAIN. 

rock  the  new  mosque  took  its  name  Gameat-el- 
Sdklira,  and  became  almost  as  sacred  to  the  Mus- 
sulman as  the  mosques  of  Mecca  and  Medina,  It 
was  afterwards  enlarged  and  embellished  b}7  the 
Caliphs.  This  rock,  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the 
Crusaders,  was  naked,  and  uncovered,  and  in  this 
state  remained  for  fifteen  years.  The  Crusaders 
covered  it  and  built  an  altar  upon  it,  and  convert- 
ed the  whole  mosque  into  a  church,  called  the 
Temple  of  the  Lord  ;  but  Saladin,  who  took  Jeru- 
salem and  expelled  the  Crusaders,  turned  it  again 
into  a  mosque,  and  it  remains  thus  to  this  day. 
This  mosque  is  covered  with  white  and  blue  mar- 
ble, except  in  certain  places,  where  the  name  of 
God  is  inscribed  in  large  Arabic  characters  of 
goldX 

I  venture  an  opinion  which  may  be  taken  for 
what  it  is  worth.  We  know  that  besides  the  tem- 
ple mentioned  above,  Solomon  erected  another 
kind  of  temple  in  this  locality.  This  edifice  was 
of  quadrangular  form  having  four  entrances  facing 
the  east,  west,  north,  and  south,  whose  doors 
were  massive  and  covered  with  silver.  Nobody 
was  allowed  to  enter  it  except  those  purified  ac- 
cording to  the  Law,  and  who  were  resolved  to  ob- 
serve the  commandments  of  the  Lord.  It  may 
be  that  this  temple  was  constructed  on  the  site 
occupied  by  this  rock,  and  called  the  Temple  of 
the  Lord,  which  name  was  retained  by  the  primi- 
tive Christians,  and  adopted  by  the  Crusaders  af- 
terwards, when  they  built  an  altar  on  this  rock 
over  which  Omar  had  erected  his  famous  mosque.x 


A   STONE    OF   PROPHESY.  237 

•, 

The  Mussulmans  informed  us,  that  they  not  only 
believe,  but  that  they  are  sure  that  this  is  a 
stone  of  Prophesy,  which  has  fallen  from  Heaven. 
They  say  that  when  the  Prophets  were  compelled 
to  flee  away  to  other  lands  in  order  to  save  them- 
selves, this  stone  wanted  to  accompany  them,  but 
the  Angel  Gabriel  prevented  its  flight  by  seizing 
it  with  his  powerful  hand,  and  held  it  till  the  ar- 
rival of  the  great  Prophet  Mohammed,  who  fixed 
it  eternally  on  this  spot  and  position.  They  show- 
ed us  the  print  of  the  Prophet's  foot  left  on  this 
rock  as  he  ascended  to  Heaven,  and  also  the  print 
of  the  Archangel's  hand  when  he  intercepted  the 
flight  of  the  stone.  I  saw  these  prints  on  the 
rock,  but  as  I  had  seen  several  of  them  on  rocks 
kept  by  Mussulmans  in  other  mosques,  or  on  the 
tombs  of  Santons,  and  believed  also  by  them  to 
be  the  prints  of  the  feet  and  hands  of  the  Prophet, 
I  said  nothing.  These  prints  are  considered  by 
them  as  a  great  evidence  of  the  truth  of  this  tale. 
They  moreover  asserted,  that  this  huge  rock  did 
not  rest  on  any  support,  but  as  it  was  flying  after 
Mohammed,  he  commanded  it  to  stop,  which  it  did, 
in  the  air.  This  last  remark  and  circumstance 
excited  in  us  great  wonder  and  curiosity  to  ex- 
amine it,  and  we  looked  at  each  other  with  aston- 
ishment. Mustapha.  the  Mussulman,  who  was 
guiding  us,  and  who  was  a  kind  of  officer,  said, 
"  I  will  conduct  you  down  into  the  cave  beneath 
this  rock  to  see  that  nothing  supports  it."/ 

This  increased  our  astonishment  and  curiosity. 
We  thought  at  first  that  the  rock  might  be  sus- 


238  JERUSALEM    AGAIN. 

pended  by  something  holding  it  in  the  air,  but  it 
was  hardly  practicable  that  such  an  immense 
ledge  could  be  held  suspended  in  the  air.  We 
took  some  candles  and  descended  into  the  cave, 
and  our  first  look  was  directed  towards  the  rock, 
which  was  laying  above  us  in  the  form  of  a  huge 
vault ;  but  to  our  great  astonishment  and  amuse- 
ment, we  saw  that  under  it,  there  was  a  wall  all 
around.  I  said  to  the  Mussulman,  u  But  this  rock 
rests  on  the  wall  which  is  built  beneath  it?" 
"No!  no!"  replied  the  Mussulman,  "the  wall 
does  not  support  the  rock  ;  the  rock  is  suspended 
in  the  air  ;  the  walls  are  only  in  case  of  accident." 
We  could  say  nothing  ;  as  it  was  not  advisable  to 
contradict  them,  and  to  show  the  falsity  of  their 
assertions.  The  Mussulman  said  that  in  this  cave 
Mohammed  rested  after  his  flight  from  Mecca  to 
Jerusalem,  which  journey  he  accomplished  in  a 
single  night.  David,  Solomon,  the  Archangel  Ga- 
briel, and  Elias  each  had  a  place  on  one  of  the 
four  sides  of  the  cave  ;  one  side  containing  the 
place  of  David,  the  other  that  of  Solomon,  the 
other  the  place  of  the  Angel  Gabriel,  and  the 
other  that  of  Elias.  In  this  cave  every  prayer  is 
believed  to  be  granted  ;  if  a  Christian  were  to 
gain  access  and  pray,  even  to  deliver  Jerusalem 
into  the  hands  of  the  Christians,  God  would  grant 
it.  Hence  their  fanaticism  in  prohibiting  the  ap- 
proach of  Christians.x 

Underneath  this  cave  there  is  a  very  large 
well,  in  which  are  the  souls  of  all  the  departed, 
waiting  the  day  of  resurrection.  They  believe 


TEMPLE    OF   THE   PRESENTATION.  239 

that  at  the  mouth  of  this  well  the  living  may  hold 
communication  with  the  souls  of  the  dead  about 
any  disputed  matter  which  lies  in  the  power  of  the 
dead  to  solve.  This  had  been  closed  because  a 
mother  who  went  to  speak  to  the  soul  of  her  son, 
on  hearing  his  voice  below  threw  herself  to  join 
tyim.  This  must  be  the  origin  of  the  Spirit- 
ualists, and  their  fanaticism  must  have  originated 
from  that  great  impostor,  Mohammed,  and  medi- 
ums must  be  as  many  little  impostors.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  this  well  is  the  spring  of  the  numer- 
ous fountains  of  the  mosque,  and  also  of  the  pools 
of  Siloam.x 

We  passed  now  into  the  Temple  of  the  Presen- 
tation of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  which  is  turned  into 
a  mosque,  and  watched  with  as  much  jealousy  as 
that  of  Omar.  This  temple  or  mosque,  called 
El-Aksa,  is  square  in  shape,  arid  has  a  spherical 
cupola.  It  is  finely  ornamented  ;  has  a  marble 
floor,  arabesque  paintings,  gildings  of  great  beau- 
ty, and  superior  white  marbles.  There  are  thirty- 
two  columns  of  gray  marble  in  two  rows  ;  sev- 
enteen large  ones  support  the  first  vault,  and 
the  others  the  dome,  each  having  its  pedestal  and 
capital.  All  around  the  columns  there  are  iron 
copper  works  in  the  form  of  chandeliers,  which 
are  beautifully  gilt.  Seven  thousand  lamps  burn 
from  sun-set  on  Friday  till  Saturday  noon  ;  and 
every  year,  for  one  month,  they  burn  the  whole 
night,  during  the  season  of  the  Ramadan,  which  is 
their  Lent.  I  could  trace  the  form  of  a  church, 
and  could  distinguish  the  Sanctuary  and  the  place 


240     .  JERUSALEM 

where  the  altar  stood.  In  the  Sanctuary  there  is 
a  large  marble  pulpit  ascended  by  eighteen  steps, 
which  are  called  the  Ladder  of  Heaven.  All 
souls  that  go  to  Heaven  must  ascend  by  this 
flight  of  steps.x 

]S"ear  the  western  door,  there  are  two  pillars  of 
smaller  dimensions,  close  to  each  other,  and  every 
one  who  can  pass  between  these  two  pillars,  is 
predestined  to  go  to  Heaven  and  share  the  enjoy- 
ment of  Mohammed.  If  a  Christian  should  at- 
tempt to  pass  between  these  two  pillars  they 
would  close  upon  him  and  crush  him  to  death.  I 
tried  to  pass,  but  could  not  succeed,  my  corporation 
being  too  much  for  it.  The  Spanish  Consul  and  the 
Italian  doctor  also  made  the  attempt,  but  they 
shared  the  same  fate  with  me.  The  French  and 
Italian  Consuls  passed  through,  and  the  pillars 
did  them  no  harm.  About  three  paces  from  these 
two  pillars  there  is  a  black  marble  stone  set  in  the 
pavement,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  square,  a  lit- 
tle above  the  surface,  in  which  there  are  twenty- 
three  holes.  They  say  that  the  Prophets  and  Mo- 
hammed alighted  from  their  horses  on  this  stone 
to  enter  the  temple.  They  also  believe  that  Mo- 
hammed alighted  on  this  stone  when  he  arrived 
from  Arabia  Felix,  on  his  journey  to  Paradise  to 
consult  God  upon  some  important  matters.  On 
one  side  of  a  kind  of  vestry  joining  the  wall  of  the 
city,  a  window  is  exhibited,  from  which  the  scape- 
goat was  let  out  to  run  into  the  wilderness,  after 
it  had  been  cursed  and  loaded  with  the  sins  of  the 
people.v 


THE   GOLDEN    GATE.  241 

•i 

We  were  conducted  below  the  foundation  of  the 
Mosque  to  examine  some  huge  walls,  pillars  and 
massive  pilasters,  which  were  part  of  the  founda- 
tion of  the  Temple  of  Solomon.  The  gigantic 
stones,  of  which  they  were  built,  have  no  parallel, 
except  in  the  Cyclopean  Temples  of  Egypt  and 
Baalbec.  They  were  so  well  cemented  together, 
that  they  appeared  to  be  a  single  block  of  rock. 
Emerging  from  these  subterranean  vaults,  we  pass- 
ed to  the  Temple,  and  close  to  the  wall  of  the  city 
eastward,  descended  by  a  narrow  flight  of  con- 
tracted steps,  into  some  rooms.  Here  the  Blessed 
Virgin  and  St.  Joseph  stopped  on  the  day  of  the 
Purification.  The  Mussulman  showed  us  a  kind 
of  manger  of  stone,  upon  which  Our  Saviour  was 
laid  that  day.  A  small  door,  now  walled  up,  in 
the  wall  of  the  city,  led  from  the  outside  of  the 
Valley  of  Jehosaphat  to  these  stairs,  and  thence 
to  the  small  rooms.  I  believe  that  this  small 
apartment  was  expressly  appropriated  for  the 
people  that  came  to  the  Temple,  to  present  their 
children  after  forty  days  from  their  nativity  in 
order  to  be  presented,  and  to  perform  the  cere- 
mony of  purification.\ 

We  proceeded  finally  to  the  Dorian  Gate,  or 
Golden  Gate,  Bal-el-Demliie.  This  is  to  the  east, 
and  contiguous  to  the  Temple.  Through  this  gate 
Our  Saviour  made  His  solemn  entrance  into  the 
city,  on  an  ass,  accompanied  by  the  people  bear- 
ing palms  and  branches  of  olive  trees,  crying 
"  Hosanna  Filio  David"  etc.;  and  this  is  the  gate 
through  which,  in  the  year  629,  the  Emperor 


242  JERUSALEM   AGATN. 

Heraclius,  with  the  utmost  pomp,  and  dressed  in 
the  most  gaudy  imperial  robes,  crowned  with  a 
diadem  of  precious  stones,  carrying  upon  his 
shoulders  the  true  Cross  of  Our  Saviour,  which  he 
had  rescued  from  the  hands  of  the  impious  Chos- 
roes,  Emperor  of  Persia,  attempted  to  pass,  but 
suddenly  stopped  and  was  unable  to  proceed,  till 
by  the  advice  of  the  Patriarch  Zachary,  he  threw 
off  his  royal  purple  and  crown,  and,  putting  on 
meaner  clothes,  followed  the  procession  barefooted 
to  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  The  Turks 
have  a  prediction  that  the  Christians  will  some 
time  or  other  take  Jerusalem  by  this  gate,  hence 
they  have  walled  it  up.  They  also  believe  that 
the  city  will  be  taken  on  a  Friday  at  noon  ;  for  this 
reason  on  each  Friday  of  the  year,  they  close 
every  gate  in  Jerusalem  from  10  A.  M.  till  3  p.  M. 
This  gate  has  a  large  and  magnificent  porch  •  the 
outside  entrance  to  this  porch  has  been  entirely 
closed,  but  on  the  inside  a  door  is  left  which  was 
unlocked  to  us,  as  a  great  favor.  In  no  city,  not 
even  in  Rome,  have  I  seen  a  more  splendid,  mag- 
nificent and  grand  gate,  to  compare  to  this.  The 
porch  is  divided  by  grand  and  tall  marble  columns, 
carved  in  a  most  skillful  manner.  Its  lofty  arches 
and  vaults  are  decorated  with  magnificent  mosaics, 
but  they  are  falling  to  pieces  in  such  a  manner 
that  it  is  not  safe  to  remain  in  it.  Some  stones 
fell  during  my  stay  in  this  porch  ;  half  of  which  at 
present  is  a  dirty  pond.  We  returned  by  the 
same  gate,  and  having  put  on  our  shoes,  returned 
to  the  Casa  Nuova,  and  I  commenced  to  make  prep 
arations  to  leave  Jerusalem.\ 


THE   PILGRIM.  243 

The  news  of  my  approaching  departure  becom- 
ing known,  I  was  visited  by  a  pilgrim  from  the 
Arctic  Polar  Zone,  who,  having  heard  that  I  was 
from  America,  and  that  I  was  going  back  again  to 
the  same  country,  gave  me  a  small  package  con- 
taining beads,  medals,  crosses,  etc.,  purchased  in 
Jerusalem,  to  give  to  his  brother  in  New  York, 
and  he  entrusted  with  me  a  letter  for  him,  and 
gave  me  his  address.  I  received  it  most  willingly, 
and  carried  it  to  New  York.  I  had  seen  this 
Pilgrim  in  Jaffa,  and  we  started  together  for  Jeru- 
salem ;  but  being  on  foot,  he  was  unable  to  travel 
with  those  on  horseback.  In  the  Casa  Nuova  he 
was  in  the  apartment  of  the  second  class  Pilgrims, 
hence  we  met  but  very  seldom.  \ 

He  told  rne  in  French  that  he  was  born  in 
Hammerfest,  a  small  city  of  Norway,  and  the 
most  northern  in  Europe,  a  few  miles  distant  from 
Cape  Nord.  He  had  lost  both  parents  when  he 
was  very  young,  and  remembers  that  when  his 
mother  was  dying,  she  recommended  him  to  per- 
form a  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem.  He  was  very 
scrupulous  in  observing  all  the  instructions,  ad- 
vices and  orders  given  by  his  parents.  The  pil- 
grimage was  the  most  difficult  injunction  to  exe- 
cute. He  was  poor,  and  had  no  means  to  travel 
with,  hence  he  undertook  the  pilgrimage  on  foot. 
What  an  immense  distance  from  Cape  Nord  in 
Europe  to  Jerusalem  !  What  a  difficult  voyage 
through  those  hyperborean  regions  !\ 

He  was  not  discouraged  ;  he  worked  occasional- 
ly on  his  journey,  and  after  procuring  some  little 
money,  he  resumed  his  voyage,  which  he  inter- 


244  JERUSALEM    AGAIN. 

rupted  again  to  work,  when  his  means  of  living 
were  exhausted.  In  this  manner  he  had  been  in 
Christiana,  Stockholm,  and  embarking  for  St. 
Petersburg,  had  gone  to  Moscow,  thence  to  the 
Black  Sea,  and  to  Constantinople.  He  worked 
there  a  considerable  time  to  procure  sufficient 
means  to  pay  his  passage  to  Jaffa.  In  the  Holy 
Land  the  Pilgrims  are  lodged  free  for  one  month 
in  Jerusalem,  and  three  days  at  any  other  place 
occupied  by  the  Franciscan  Friars.  Now  he  had 
engaged  himself  to  work,  in  order  to  procure  means 
to  return  to  his  native  country.  How  many  years 
will  this  pilgrimage  cost  {rim  ?  But  he  must  obey 
his  parents.  He  is  a  good,  pious  Catholic.  I  was 
much  pleased  with  his  company,  and  edified  by 
his  practices  of  religion.  He  was  very  anxious 
to  know  if  his  brother,  a  doctor,  I  believe,  in 
New  York,  was,  as  he  hoped,  a  good  Catholic. \ 

Before  leaving  Jerusalem,  I  will  make  a  few 
general  remarks  upon  this  heap  of  rubbish  de- 
nominated a  city.  The  present  streets,  or  what 
they  call  streets,  are  twenty,  thirty  and  forty  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  ancient  streets.  Those 
monuments  described  by  me  and  other  travelers 
are  either  built  upon  the  site  of  the  former  ones,  or 
are  the  identical  original  buildings,  which  have 
been  patched,  repaired,  or  reconstructed,  as  it  is 
the  case  with  the  walls  of  the  city,  which  were  re- 
paired and  rebuilt  by  the  Venetians  several  cen- 
turies ago.  The  houses  are  miserable  holes  and 
prisons  ;  dark,  damp,  gloomy  and  wretched.  Not 
only  the  city,  but  the  country  all  around,  bears 


GENERAL   REMARKS.  241 

the  marks  of  a  land  cursed  by  the  Almighty  for 
having  rejected  the  promised  Messiah,  and  having 
drawn  down  upon  this  land,  and  people,  the  blood 
which  they  shed  of  the  Son  of  Grod  made  man. 
This  country,  once  flowing  with  milk  and  honey, 
now  cannot  feed  its  scanty  inhabitants,  who  live 
by  the  alms  of  pilgrims,  and  by  robbery./ 

The  bread  which  they  eat  is  abominable.  When 
I  was  sick  and  ill,  the  Doctor  ordered  me  the  best 
kind  of  bread  that  could  be  found  ;  the  bread  was 
bought,  brought  to  me,  and  I  found  that  it  was 
very  old  sea  biscuit,  teeming  with  maggots  ;  and 
no  better  bread  could  be  found.  Beef  is  not  used  ; 
camel  meat  has  a  strong  smell.  Mutton,  the  ever- 
lasting mutton,  is  the  common  meat.  Fowls  can 
be  found,  and  venison  is  rather  abundant ;  vegeta- 
bles are  scarce  ;  beans  and  other  cereals  are  im- 
ported 5  olives  abundant ;  fruits  very  scarce.  I 
went  once  to  purchase  a  few  apples,  and  they  gave 
me  some  so  entirely  rotten  that  the  hogs  would 
hardly  eat  them,  for  which  the  Turks  asked  a 
high  price,  and  pronounced  very  good ;  but  I  re- 
fused to  take  them.  The  common  wine  is  that 
from  the  Island  of  Cyprus,  in  which  there  is  tar, 
and  it  is  very  disagreeable  to  drink.  The  coffee 
which  they  make  is  also  prepared  with  tar  ;  they 
make  great  use  of  it,  and  drink  it  at  all  hours 
from  very  small  cups.  Firewood  is  so  scarce  and 
dear  that  it  is  sold  by  weight.  There  is  only  a 
scanty  supply  of  water,  which  is  gathered  in  wells 
during  the  rainy  season.  They  use  goat's  milk 
in  great  quantity.  / 


246  JERUSALEM   AGAIN. 

Everything  bears  the  expression  of  melancholy, 
grief,  depression  of  spirit,  sorrow  and  discontent ; 
oppression,  poverty  and  misery.  During  my  stay 
in  Jerusalem  I  never  observed  a  smile  on  the  face 
of  any  person,  no  matter  to  what  nation  he  be- 
longed. There  is  nothing  to  relieve  the  spirits 
and  cheer  you.  Everything  inspires  devotion, 
piety,  retirement,  penance,  recollection  and  med- 
itation. What  a  fine  place  to  spend  the  remain- 
der of  one's  life  in,  and  leave  our  bones  to  rest  in 
peace,  interred  in  the  solitude  of  Mount  Siou, 
shaded  by  the  Holy  City,  and  by  the  tomb  of  Our 
Saviour !  \ 

I  inquired  why  they  did  not  cultivate  the  land. 
They  answered  me  :  "  What  is  the  use  in  doing  so, 
for  when  the  crop  is  ripe,  it  would  be  stolen,, or 
some  person  belonging  to  the  government  would 
take  it  away,  by  force,  and  no  use  to  complain."/ 

The  evil  effects  of  the  oppressive  and  despotic 
Turkish  government  can  be  seen  in  everything. 
Turkish  money  has  no  standard  value  ;  their 
paras  and  piastres  are  worth  only  what  the  gov- 
ernment wants  them  to  be  ;  even  napoleons  and 
sovereigns  have  no  fixed  value  ;  all  depends  upon 
the  will  of  the  government.  When  the  people 
have  to  pay  taxes  and  other  imposts,  the  govern- 
ment depreciates  the  value  of  money  ;  when  offi- 
cers, troops,  etc.,  are  to  be  paid,  the  govern- 
ment raises  its  value,  hence  they  must  always  lose, 
and  keep  quiet.  In  Jerusalem  I  have  seen  soldiers 
who  had  hardly  any  shoes,  and  I  was  told  that 
the  troops  had  not  been  paid,  for  about  one  year. 


HOW  ROADS  ARE  BUILT.          237 

Custom  House  officers  and  others  who  collect  tax- 
es, pay  themselves  first,  and  other  government, 
employes  do  the  best  they  can  with  backsheesh. 
The  government  ordered  a  carriage  road  to  be 
constructed  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem,  and  the  poor 
people  were  obliged  to  build  it.  Every  one  was 
commanded  to  work  for  a  number  of  days,  or  to 
pay  a  certain  amount  of  money.  Each  communi- 
ty or  number  of  individuals,  over  whose  land,  or 
near  to  it,  the  road  was  to  pass,  was  to  construct 
a  certain  number  of  rods  of  the  road  and  they  did 
so,  and  the  road  so  constructed  was  impassable 
because  it  was  done  by  morsels  ;  from  the  end  of 
one  part  to  the  commencement  of  the  other  there 
was  a  blank  space  of  many  rods,  sometimes  for 
half  a  mile,  and  sometimes  the  gap  was  only  a  few 
rods,  but  extremities  did  not  always  meet  in  the 
same  line./ 

This  road  so  constructed,  according  to  the  taste 
and  interests  of  different  individuals,  and  which 
was  not  yet  finished  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  has 
been  more  than  half  washed  away  by  the  first  heavy 
rains  that  came  during  my  stay  in  Jerusalem. 
The  same  has  been  the  case  with  the  road  to 
Mount  Sinai  which  was  never  brought  to  an  end  ; 
it  was  much  washed  away  and  finally  abandoned. 
Everything  can  be  obtained  from  the  Govern- 
ment for  money.  He  who  gives  the  most  gets 
what  he  wants.  The  Russians  by  large  sums  of 
gold  have  obtained  many  Sanctuaries,  which  once 
belonged  to  the  Latins.\ 

The  Friars  dispense  medicines  to  every  person 


248  JERUSALEM    AGAIN. 

indiscriminately  and  gratis,  and  send    a   doctor 
to  the  sick.  Many  families  are  supported  by  them, 
and  the  alms  which  they  dispense  are  immense. 
In  Bethlehem  the  Arabs  claim  a  right  to  be  sup- 
ported by  the  Catholics  of  the  whole  world  be- 
cause they  say  that  they  were  the  first  Christians 
and  have  a  right  to  be  provided  by  their  breth- 
ren of  all  nations,  with  the  necessaries  of  life,  and 
for  this  reason  they  do  not  work.     The  convent 
gives  hospitality  to  any  pilgrim  for  a  month,  with- 
out requiring  any  payment,  although  alms  corres- 
ponding to  the  expenses  of  their  stay  are  left. 
The  Pilgrims  are  divided  into  1st  and  2d  classes, 
and  each  class  has  different  apartments  and  a 
refectory,  but  the  food  is  the  same  with  all.     The 
fare  in  Jerusalem  is  poor,   but   abundant ;    the 
bread  is  bad  and  as  heavy  as  lead,  and  many  first- 
class  pilgrims  can  not  use  it,  but  purchase  some 
better  kind.     If  any  Pilgrim  buys  anything  ex- 
tra, they  will  cook  it  at  the  Gasa  Nuova.     The 
Friars  take  their  meals  at  the  convent  in  their 
own  refectory,  but  the  food  is  the  same  as  that  of 
the  Pilgrims.     The  wine  would  be  tolerable,  if  it 
were  not  adulterated  with  much  water.     When  I 
was  sick,  the  Doctor  ordered  a  particular  kind  of 
food  for  me,  which  I  gave  orders  and  money  to 
procure,  and  he  was  so  kind  as  to  prepare  it  him- 
self, and  purchase  some  good  marsala,  vermuth 
and  claret  for  me.     In  Jerusalem  I  felt  cold  and 
was  often  obliged  to  go  to  the  kitchen  to  warm 
myself,  especially  on  rainy  days. 

The   Franciscans   try  to  keep  on  good  terms 


PERSECUTION    OF    CHRISTIANS.  249 

with  the  Mussulmans  in  order  to  be  spared  or 
less  ill  treated  in  time  of  persecution.  It  was 
no  later  than  seven  years  ago,  that  all  Chris- 
tians were  persecuted  in  Damascus,  Syria  and 
Palestine.  They  were  brutally  treated,  robbed 
and  many  lost  their  lives.  A  few  years  ago  the 
Mussulmans  commenced  again  to  threaten  the 
Christians,  but  the  latter  armed  themselves,  and 
were  joined  by  the  wealthy  class,  'and  the  Turkish 
merchants,  and  protested  that  they  would  not 
submit  to  any  brutal  persecution,  but  would  de- 
fend themselves.  This  resolution  had  a  good  ef- 
fect, and  this  has  been  the  cause  of  the  revolution 
in  the  Island  of  Candia.  The  Convent  and  nearly 
all  the  churches  in  Palestine  and  Syria  are  built 
like  fortresses.  They  have  generally  one  door 
and  that  is  cased  with  iron  and  provided  with 
chains.  The  Christians  can  keep  their  ground 
there  for  months. \ 

The  Monks,  and  every  subject  of  the  Sultan  in 
general,  are  liable  to  be  seized  at  any  time  by 
order  of  the  Government.  Life  and  property  are 
never  safe  in  Turkey  ;  and  Christians  are  always 
in  danger  of  being  robbed  or  murdered  at  any 
time  by  the  Mussulmans.  The  Monks,  of  course, 
are  always  the  first  objects  of  their  attacks,  be- 
cause they  can  plunder  their  churches  and  con- 
vents. The  precious  sacred  vessels  and  rich 
vestments  belonging  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and 
to  St.  Saviour,  the  gifts  of  princes,  kings  and 
emperors,  are  concealed,  and  no  person  except 
the  Reverendissimo  and  one  or  two  more  Friars 
ii.— 16. 


250  JERUSALEM   AGAIN. 

know  the  place  of  their  concealment.  When  they 
are  to  be  used  they  are  taken  out,  and  again  con- 
cealed. This  precaution  is  considered  necessary 
to  prevent  them  from  being  stolen  by  the  Turks 
or  the  Government.  To  appeal  to  law  is  a  waste 
of  time.  All  Christians,  however,  are  under  the 
protection  of  France.  But  will  it  shelter  them 
when  they  are  called  dogs  and  treated  as  such  ? 
Christians  seldom  receive  justice  from  the  Turk- 
ish Government.  In  Constantinople  it  may  be 
that  even  under  the  protectorate  of  France,  jus- 
tice would  be  done  to  them,  but  far  from  the 
capital,  Christians  are  at  the  mercy  of  many  des- 
potic and  fanatic  officers.  In  1840,  Father  Thomas, 
a  Capuchin,  together  with  a  lay  brother,  an  Arab, 
were  brutally  murdered  in  Damascus  by  the 
Jews.  Being  a  good  physician  he  was  inveigled 
into  the  house  of  a  Jew  on  the  pretext  of  seeing 
a  sick  man.  The  Jews  seized  them  and  bled  them 
to  death,  in  order  to  put  their  blood,  because 
Christian  blood,  into  their  unleavened  bread  for 
the  Passover.\ 

Three  Jews  were  condemned  to  death  because 
they  had  been  convicted  of  this  barbarous  action  ; 
yet  they  were  allowed  to  escape.  This  is  Turk- 
ish justice !  It  has  been  ascertained  that  Me- 
hemed  All  was  induced  to  stop  the  prosecution 
by  several  European  Jews,  one  of  them  an  Eng- 
lish Baronet,  who  sent  M.  Cremieux,  late  minister 
of  France,  with  weighty  reasons  on  a  special  mis- 
sion to  the  Pach£.\ 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PALESTINE — CONTINUED. 

\  DEPARTURE    FROM    JERUSALEM — PLACE     OF    JACOB'S    LADDER JACOB'S     WELL — 

MOUNT     GERIZIM JOSEPH'S     TOMB SICHEM SAMARIA BETHULIA MOUN- 
TAINS   GELBOE SEBASTE — PLAIN  OF  ESDRAELON — MOUNT    HERMON NAIM 

NAZARETH SANCTUARY  OF  THE  ANNUNCIATION CHURCH    OF   THE    SYNAGOGUE 

8T.    JOSEPH'S    HOUSE MOUNTAIN    OF    THE   PRECIPITATION HOUSE    OF    ST. 

JOACHIM  AND  ST.  ANNE.\ 

N!N  order  to  visit  the  rest  of  the  Holy  Places, 
it  is  necessary  to  be  accompanied  by  a  caravan ; 
because  being  obliged  to  go  through  Samaria, 
and  even  as  far  as  Baalbec,  you  meet  with 
robbers  and  murderers.  The  Samaritans  to  this 
day  not  only  do  not  associate  with  the  Hebrews, 
but  even  not  with  Christians  or  Gentiles.  They 
assail  travelers,  no  matter  to  what  nation  they 
belong,  and  rob  and  murder  them.  Besides  this, 
on  the  road  to  Nazareth  there  are  no  Convents 
of  Friars  ;  hence  it  is  necessary  to  sleep  under 
a  tent.  The  dragoman  may  find  a  shelter  for 
you  in  some  private  house  ;  but  in  Palestine 
and  Syria,  life  and  property  are  never  safe  in 
private  houses.\ 

After  ten  miles  of  a  bad  road  the  village  of 
Machmas,  by  the  Arabs  called  el-Sir  (the  well), 
is  reached,  where  the  first  stop  is  generally  made. 

(251) 


252  PALESTINE. 

At  the  most  elevated  part  of  this  village,  there 
are  the  remains  of  a  Church  dedicated  to  the 
Blessed  Virgin.  Partial  Indulgence.  On  this 
spot  the  Blessed  Virgin,  returning  from  Jeru- 
salem to  Nazareth,  found  out  that  she  had  lost 
the  Infant  Jesus,  whom  she  found  after  three  days, 
in  the  Temple,  disputing  with  the  Doctors.  Here 
Jonathan  son  of  Saul,  and  Jonathan  Maccabeus 
distinguished  themselves,  as  we  read  in  the  Old 
Testament.\ 

After  five  miles  of  an  abominable  road  and  four 
of  a  more  tolerable  one  the  guide  points  out 
Bethel  Luza,  the  spot  where  Jacob  had  the  famous 
vision  of  the  ladder  that  reached  from  Heaven 
to  the  earth,  and  where  the  wicked  Jeroboam  in 
order  to  persuade  his  subjects  from  going  to  Jeru- 
salem to  adore  the  Lord,  erected  the  golden  calf. 
A  very  short  distance  out  of  the  road  is  Shiloh, 
where  Joshua  deposited  the  Ark  of  the  Covenant, 
which  remained  there  for  351  years.  Here  the 
virgins  of  Shiloh  were  ravished  by  the  young 
men  of  the  tribe  of  Benjamin.  A  little  further 
on,  about  half  an  hour  from  Nablous,  is  the  best 
piece  of  land  that  can  be  found  in  the  whole  of 
Samaria.\ 

This  is  the  field  which  Jacob,  returning  from 
Mesopotamia,  bought  of  the  sons  of  Hamor,  and 
he  paid  for  it  one  hundred  lambs  ;  and  this  is  the 
field  where  Joseph  came  to  inquire  about  his  breth- 
ren, whom  not  finding,  he  continued  on  his  way  to 
Dothain.  In  this  field  is  Jacob's  Well,  dug  by 
himself,  called  also  the  Samaritan's  Well,  because 


JACOB'S  WELL.  253 

>i 

by  it  Christ  sat  and  talked  with  the  Samaritan 
woman,  and  wrought  her  conversion.  There  is 
attached  to  it  a  Plenary  Indulgence.  There  was 
formerly  on  this  spot  a  fine  church  and  nunnery, 
but  there  are  hardly  any  traces  of  them  left.  A 
short  distance  east  from  the  well  is  the  tomb  of 
Joseph,  which  is  in  good  condition  and  surround- 
ed by  a  wall.  Around  this  tomb  are  also  buried 
his  eleven  brothers.  Here  Joseph's  field  (or  Ja- 
cob's) ends,  and  a  valley  commences  between 
Mount  Garizim  and  Mount  Hebal,  where  Moses 
commanded  Josue  to  read  the  Law  before  the 
tribes  of  Israel.  It  is  said  that  upon  the  former 
the  blessings  of  the  Lord  were  proclaimed  by  the 
Levites  for  those  who  observed  the  Law  of  the 
Lord,  and  upon  the  latter  mountain  the  maledic- 
tions against  the  transgressors  of  the  law.  Mount 
Garizim  is  better  known  for  its  temple,  erected 
there  in  opposition  to  that  upon  Mount  Moriah  in 
Jerusalem,  which  was  the  cause  of  a  schism,  and 
of  many  apostacies  and  enmities  between  the 
Samaritans  and  the  Jews.  On  the  top  of  this 
mountain  are  the  remains  of  the  old  Temple  of 
the  Samaritans  enclosed  in  a  modern  one./ 

The  ancient  city  of  Sichem,  called  also  Sychar 
or  Sichima,  lies  choked  up  between  these  two 
mountains.  The  Latins  changed  its  name  to 
Neapolis,  called  by  the  Arabs  Nobles,  by  the 
French  Naplouse,  and  by  the  Italians  Napoli.  It 
contains  about  8,000  inhabitants,  mostly  Moham- 
medans. I  saw  a  few  Jews  and  Samaritans,  but 
there  are  no  Christians  except  500  Greeks,  who 


254  PALESTINE. 

are  hated  there  ;  and  the  inhabitant^,  notorious 
for  their  wickedness,  are  always  in  revolt  against 
its  authorities.  The  houses  are  well  built,  and 
nearly  all  meet  on  both  sides  across  the  street  at 
the  top,  and  form  arches  shutting  out  the  light  of 
the  sun.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  filthy.  This 
city  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  world,  and  its  his- 
tory dates  back  over  4,000  years.  Here  Abra- 
ham first  pitched  his  tent  in  Canaan.  Here  Sim- 
eon and  Levi  slaughtered  the  entire  male  popula- 
tion in  order  to  avenge  the  insult  and  dishonor  of 
their  sister  Dinah.  B-oboam  was  proclaimed 
King  of  Israel  in  this  place.  Our  Saviour  stop- 
ped here  two  days,  and  was  well  treated. 

At  a  short  distance  is  Sebaste,  the  ancient  Sama- 
ria of  Herod,  the  capital  of  the  Kings  of  Israel.  It 
is  now  a  miserable  village  of  500  inhabitants;  but 
is  worth  visiting  on  account  of  the  magnificent 
remains  of  a  splendid  church  erected  to  St.  John 
the  Baptist  by  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  Here 
may  be  gained  a  Partial  Indulgence.  Here  are  the 
tombs  of  the  Prophets  Abdias  and  Eliseus.  The 
position  of  Sebaste  is  magnificent,  situated  on  the 
top  of  a  hill.  Samaria  was  founded  by  Omri, 
King,  of  Israel  and  besieged  under  his  successor 
Achab  (who  married  the  notorious  Jezabel)  by  the 
King  of  Damascus,  and  in  that  siege  the  inhabi- 
tants for  want  of  food  decided  to  boil  and  eat  their 
own  infants.  It  was  finally  relieved,  as  predicted 
by  the  Prophet  Elias.  The  Emperor  Augustus 
gave  this  city  to  his  favorite  Herod  the  Great, 
who  rebuilt  it  with  great  magnificence,  naming  it 


JAKNIN.  255 

>• 

Sebaste.  Hundreds  of  pillars  can  yet  be  seen  on 
the  top  of  the  hill  where  this  village  is  situated, 
which  are  the  remains  of  the  grandeur  of  the  edi- 
fices of  Herod.  On  the  way  to  Jenin,  where  it  is 
necessary  to  remain  a  night,  the  road  passes  near 
by  Samur  which  is  believed  to  be  the  ancient 
Bethulia,  where  Judith  saved  the  people  of  God  by 
cutting  off  the  head  of  the  proud  Holofernes.  This 
village  or  city  is  situated  on  the  top  of  a  high  hill  to 
the  left,  about  three  hours  before  reaching  Jenin. 
It  is  believed  that  from  this  village  came  the  ten 
lepers  whom  Our  Lord  cured  by  sending  them  to 
the  priests.  There  was  formerly  a  church  built  on 
this  spot.  After  crossing  the  eastern  end  of  the 
mountains  of  (lelboe  or  Gilboa,  fatal  to  Saul  and 
his  sons,  anathematized  by  David,  that  no  dew  nor 
rain  should  fall  on  them,  because  there  his  friend 
Jonathan,  the  shield  of  the  strong,  fell,  the  beau- 
tiful village  of  Jenin,  Janniti  or  Jeneen,  is  soon 
reached  ^  after  a  journey  of  a  few  miles.  It  is 
handsomely  situated  on  the  right  at  the  entrance 
of  the  great  valley  of  Esdraelon.  This  is  the 
ancient  Jezrahel,  and  contains  2,000  inhabitants  ; 
where  Achab  lived  and  where  Naboth  had  his 
vineyard,  and  where  the  wicked  Jezabel  was  de- 
voured by  the  dogs  in  punishment  for  her  impie- 
ties, and  in  fulfillment  of  the  prophecy.  Near 
this  place  General  Kleber  with  3,000  Frenchmen 
kept  30,000  Turks  at  bay  for  six  hours,  until  re- 
lieved by  Napoleon. 

I  crossed  the  torrent  of  Kison  or  Tchison,  which 
divides  into  two  branches,  one  going  eastward  to 


256  PALESTINE. 

the  Jordan,  the  other  to  Caiffa  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean sea.  It  was  on  the  eastern  branch  that 
Barac,  encouraged  by  Debbora,  defeated  the  army 
of  Jabin  commanded  by  Sisara,  and  on  the  western 
that  Elias  ordered  the  slaughter  of  the  850  false 
prophets,  who  in  vain  had  cried  aloud  to  Baal  to 
send  fire  from  heaven  to  consume  their  sacrifice.  On 
the  right,  you  pass  the  famous  Mount  Hermon, 
which  in  vain  seems  to  vie  in  height  and  majesty 
with  the  glorious  Mount  Tabor  standing  on  the 
opposite  side  ;  but  it  displays  its  superiority  only 
in  extending  its  wide  arms  towards  the  fields  of 
Medjal  (Magdala).  On  the  northern  part  of 
Hermon  is  seen  the  city  of  Nairn,  where  Our 
Saviour  raised  to  life  the  only  son  of  the  widow, 
who  was  accompanying  the  remains  to  the  grave. 
There  was  formerly  a  fine  church  on  the  spot 
where  this  famous  miracle. was  performed,  but 
at  present  nothing  but  its  ruins  can  be  seen. 
Plenary  Indulgence.  Near  Nairn  there  are  nu- 
merous caverns  hewn  in  the  cliffs  above  the 
houses.  In  one  of  these  caverns,  King  Saul  had 
an  interview  with  the  witch.  From  Nairn  the 
pilgrims  reach-  Nazareth  and  receive  the  hospi- 
tality of  the  Franciscans  in  a  house  built  near 
the  Convent.x 

Nazareth,  the  place  where  the  great  work  of 
the  Redemption  of  man  commenced,  where  the 
reconciliation  of  man  with  God  had  its  beginning, 
where  the  earth  was  declared  to  be  at  peace  with 
God,  and  where  justice  and  peace  kissed  each 
other,  is  a  city  or  village  of  3,000  inhabitants, 


NAZARETH.  257 

2,500  of  which  are  Catholics.  It  is  handsomely 
located  on  an  elevation  of  the  western  side  of 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  valleys  of  Syria,  and 
the  land  surrounding  it  is  in  a  fine  state  of  cul- 
tivation, all  laid  out  in  gardens,  orchards,  and 
luxuriant  fields.  The  Sanctuary  of  the  Annun- 
ciation is  built  on  the  same  site  and  occupies 
precisely  the  very  identical  spot  on  which  stood 
the  house  of  the  Blessed  Yirgin  which  was  trans- 
ported by  the  angels  to  Loretto  in  Italy.  The 
present  house  in  Nazareth  is  of  the  same  dimen- 
sions ;  and  an  exact  copy  of  the  real  one  now  in 
Loretto.  A  granite  pillar  suspended  from  the 
vault  marks  the  place  where  the  Blessed  Virgin 
stood  when  she  received  the  Angelic  Salutation  ; 
and  another  about  three  feet  distant  points  out 
the  spot  occupied  by  the  Archangel  Gabriel  in 
delivering  to  her  the  message  sent  from  Heaven. 
This  Sanctuary  is  enclosed  in  a  large  fine  Church, 
called  the  Church  of  the  Annunciation,  the  inte- 
rior of  which  is  covered  with  fine  and  rich  silk 
damask,  which  hangs  all  round  the  walls.  The 
numerous  rich  ornaments  of  this  Sanctuary  re- 
present the  Mystery  of  the  Annunciation.  The 
Franciscan  Friars  have  possession  of  it,  and  per- 
form here  a  daily  procession  as  they  do  in  the 
other  Sanctuaries.  There  is  a  Plenary  Indul- 
gence granted  to  every  one  of  the  four  altars; 
and  a  Partial  Indulgence  is  attached  to  the  altar 
of  St.  Joseph,  and  another  to  that  of  St.  Joachim 
and  St.  Anne.  The  Latin  convent  adjoining  it  is 
a  fine  massive,  strong,  square  building,  but  the 


258  PALESTINE. 

Pilgrims  now  lodge  in  a  separate  house,  built  for 
this  object.\ 

There  is  a  Partial  Indulgence  on  the  small 
church  called  the  Church  of  the  Synagogue,  which 
is  located  in  the  center  of  the  town,  and  in  which 
the  Catholic  Greeks  officiate.  This  chapel  was 
erected  by  Tancfedi,  Prince  of  Galilee,  in  the 
time  of  the  Crusaders,  on  the  site  of  an  old  one. 
Its  name  is  derived  from  a  Synagogue  which  was 
there  in  the  time  of  Our  Saviour,  to  which  He  was 
accustomed  to  repair.  It  was  in  this  Synagogue 
that,  according  to  the  custom  of  those  days,  the 
book  of  the  Sacred  Scriptures  was  presented  to 
Jesus  Christ  when  very  young,  sitting  on  the 
Sabbath  with  other  people.  He  rose  up  in  respect 
to  the  congregation,  opened  the  book,  and  read  by 
chance  a  passage  of  the  Prophet  Isaias  that  speaks 
of  Him.  Having  closed  the  book,  He  returned  it 
to  the  minister  and  resumed  His  seat.  But,  per- 
ceiving that  everybody  was  anxiously  waiting  to 
hear  Him,  He  explained  the  passage  of  the  Holy 
Scripture,  which  He  had  just  read.  His  wisdom 
and  grace  attracted  the  admiration  of  everybody, 
who  wondered  and  said  to  each  other,  "  How  came 
this  man  by  this  wisdom,  and  these  mighty  works  ? 
Is  not  this  the  carpenter's  son  ?  . . .  Whence  then  hath 
He  all  these  things  ?"/ 

.Another  Partial  Indulgence  is  attached  to  the 
little  chapel  erected  on  the  site  of  the  workshop 
of  St.  Joseph.  In  this  chapel  an  old  wall  is  to  be 
seen  which  is  believed  to  have  formed  a  part  of 
St.  Joseph's  house.  The  chapel  called  Mensa 


NAZARETH.  259 

Domini  is  a  building  situated  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  city  enclosing  a  large  flat  stone  twelve  feet 
long  by  ten  wide.  On  this  stone  Our  Saviour  ate 
with  his  disciples  before  and  after  His  death,  as 
is  the  tradition  in  Nazareth.  There  is  a  Partial 
Indulgence  here,  and  another  on  the  Blessed  Vir- 
gin's Well,  where  she  used  to  get  water.  St. 
Mary  of  the  Tremor  is  a  small  sitting  stone,  where 
once  stood  a  nunnery  and  a  church  under  this 
name  ;  and  there  is  a  Partial  Indulgence.  The 
origin  of  this  title  was,  that  the  Blessed  Virgin 
here  trembled,  when  the  wicked  Nazarenes  want- 
ed to  cast  Our  Saviour  from  the  neighboring 
mountain  which  is  called  Precipice — a  fearfully 
wild  ravine,  and  immensely  high.  Once  a  church 
had  been  built  on  this  Precipice,  in  memory  of 
this  event,  and  a  Partial  Indulgence  is  granted  to 
it.  The  chapel  of  St.  James  of  Saffa,  is  about  one 
hour  distant,  to  the  north  of  Nazareth.  It  is  be- 
lieved to  occupy  the  site  of  the  house  of  Zebedee, 
father  of  James  and  John.  There  is  here  a  fine 
Catholic  Church  to  which  is  annexed  a  Partial 
Indulgences 

On  the  way  to  Ptolemais,  (Akka,)  Acre  or  St. 
Jean  d'Acre,  a  very  short  distance  from  Nazareth, 
there  is  one  third  part  of  the  church  of  St.  Anne  in 
Sepphoris  (SefuricK).  This  church  was  built  in 
honor  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  because  she  lived 
here,  and  because  St.  Joachim  and  St.  Anne  are 
supposed  to  have  been  Saphurites.  In  the  time 
of  the  Romans  Sepphoris  was  one  of  the  strongest 
places  of  Galilee.  Herod  Antipas  constructed 


260  PALESTINE. 

there  magnificent  buildings,  and  called  it  Auto- 
cratorida  ;  St.  Jerome  and  Egesippus  denominate 
it  Diocesarea ;  but  the  name  with  which  it  is  men- 
tioned by  the  people  is  Saphurida,  a  corruption 
of  Saphuris,  or  Sepphoris  (pr.  Sefurich).\ 

From  Ptolemais,  pilgrims  generally  go  to  Mount 
Carmel.  Upon  this  sacred  mountain,  which  is  the 
figure  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  the  Carmelites  have 
built  a  magnificent  church  and  convent.  On  this 
holy  mountain  the  Blessed  Virgin  received  her 
first  veneration,  and  the  first  church  built  in  hon- 
or of  her  was  erected  upon  this  place.  There  is 
attached  to  it  a  Plenary  Indulgence.  Mount  Car- 
mel rises  majestically  over  the  Mediterranean 
sea,  on  which  side  it  is  so  steep  that  even  wild 
goats  cannot  keep  their  footing  ;  the  rest  is  beau- 
tiful and  lovely.  Here  the  Prophets  Elias  and 
Eliseus  with  their  disciples,  a  number  of  prophets, 
lived  for  many  years.  On  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain towards  the  sea,  their  school,  hewn  from  the 
rock,  is  yet  to  be  seen.  Here  the  Prophet  Elias 
made  fire  come  down  from  heaven  to  consume  his 
sacrifice,  to  the  confusion  of  the  false  prophets  of 
Baal ;  and  here  he  obtained  rain  from  heaven  af- 
ter a  drought  of  three  years  and  six  months  had 
desolated  the  land  of  Chanaan.v 

Persons  desirous  to  end  their  pilgrimage  in  this 
place,  can  go  to  Caiffa,  half  a  day  distant,  where 
several  steamers  call  every  week  for  Beyruth  and 
Jaffa.x 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

GALILEE   AND  SYRIA. 

CANA  OF  GALILEE — FIELD  OF  ZABULON — -SEA  OF  GALILEE — MAGDALA — BETHSAI- 
DA CAPHARNAUM — TIBERIAS — MOUNT  TABOR BANIAS — SPOT  OF  THE  CON- 
VERSION OF  ST.  PAUL — DAMASCUS — ANTI-LIBANUS — RIYER  BARRADA — RUINS  OF 
BAALBEC LIBANUS ZAHLEH BEYRUTH.  / 

\JUDEA,  no  doubt,  is  a  place  teeming  with  Sanc- 
tuaries, but  Galilee  may  be  styled  one  continu- 
ous Sanctuary,  and  every  foot  of  the  shores  of  the 
Sea  of  Galilee  (or  Lake  of  Tiberias),  has  been 
consecrated  by  the  presence  of  its  Maker  in  His 
pilgrimage  on  this  earth.  On  the  way  to  this  lake, 
a  short  distance  from  Nazareth,  on  the  left,  is  the 
village  of  Michieth,  the  ancient  Geth,  not  the  na- 
tive place  of  the  Giant  Goliah,  but  of  the  Proph- 
et Jonas,  who  is  supposed  also  to  be  buried  in 
this  place.  A  short  distance  further  you  discov- 
er the  famous  Cana  of  Galilee.  A  few  ruins  of  a 
church  point  out  the  place  where  Our  Divine  Re- 
deemer, through  the  intercession  of  His  Blessed 
Mother,  shortened  His  appointed  time  to  perform 
miracles,  and  changed  the  water  into  wine.  Plen- 
ary Indulgence.  Here  may  be  noticed  some  walls 
of  an  old  house  called  St.  Bartholomew's  house, 
who  was  of  Cana,  and  who  is  believed  to  be  that 

(261) 


262  GALILEE   AND    SYRIA. 

Nathanael  who  deserved  the  praise  of  the  Lord, 
that  he  was  a  true  Israelite  in  whom  there  was  no 
guile.  Cana  is  also  noted  as  being  the  native 
place  of  the  Apostle  St.  Simon,  and  where  Our 
Divine  Redeemer  received  the  Regulus  of  Ca- 
pharnaum,  who  obtained  from  Him  the  healing  of 
his  son,  who  was  at  the  point  of  death.  The  road 
soon  crosses  the  field  of  Zabulon,  known  only  by 
the  name  of  the  Field  of  the  Wheat-heads.  It  was 
here  that  the  Apostles  on  the  Sabbath  gathered 
some  wheat-heads  to  eat,  to  the  scandal  of  the 
Pharisees.  Here  took  place  the  great  decisive 
battle  which  sealed  the  unfortunate  end  of  the 
Latin  kingdom.  On  the  right  rises  the  Mountain 
of  the  Beatitudes.  On  its  summit  there  are  the 
remains  of  a  church,  to  which  is  granted  a  Par- 
tial Indulgence.  Near  the  base  of  this  mountain 
is  the  place  where  Our  Saviour,  with  five  loaves 
of  bread  and  two  fishes,  fed  5,000  people.  A  Par- 
tial Indulgence  has  been  attached  to  it.\ 

Tiberias  (or  Genesareth)  once  the  third  of  the 
Holy  Cities  of  the  Jews,  ranking  with  Jerusalem 
and  Hebron,  is  now  a  miserable  and  filthy  town 
of  2,500  inhabitants  ;  yet  it  is  famed  for  being  the 
native  place  of  St.  Peter.  There  is  a  small  Latin 
convent  near  the  site  of  St.  Peter's  house,  and  a 
church  on  the  spot  where  Our  Divine  Redeemer, 
after  His  glorious  Resurrection,  appeared  to  the 
Apostles,  who  were  fishing,  and  constituted  St. 
Peter  the  head  of  the  Church.  Although  this  spot 
was  always  held  in  veneration,  since  the  time  of 
the  Primitive  Christians,  yet  the  present  church 


TIBERIAS.  263 

is  believed  to  have  been  built  by  Tancredi,  in  the 
time  of  the  Crusaders.  The  exterior  form  of  this 
church  is  in  the  shape  of  a  boat  just  launched  into 
the  sea.  The  waves  of  the  lake  dash  against  its 
prow,  which  is  of  hard,  solid  stone,  figurative  of 
the  stability  of  St.  Peter's  boat — the  Church,  which 
may  be  struck  by  raging  waves  and  storms,  but 
its  stability  will  stand  and  endure  even  to  the  end 
of  the  world.  It  is  blessed  with  a  Partial  Indul- 
gence./ 

Our  Divine  Redeemer,  expelled  from  Nazareth, 
because  no  prophet  was  ever  honored  in  his  na- 
tive city,  retired  to  Tiberias  and  made  its  shores 
the  theatre  of  His  wonders.  Along  these  shores 
He  preached  His  sublime  new  doctrine,  which  He 
had  brought  from  heaven  ;  along  these  shores  im- 
mense multitudes  followed  Him  to  hear  the  word 
of  life.  Upon  the  waters  of  this  lake  He  walked, 
and  made  its  raging  billows  and  storms  keep  still 
at  the  command  of  His  voice.  Upon  these  shores 
He  called  the  most  of  His  Apostles,  and  for  near- 
ly three  years  He  instructed  the  multitudes  and 
performed  the  most  of  His  miracles.  Oh !  how 
many  times  has  Our  Lord  crossed  these  waters  in 
St.  Peter's  little  boat,  in  order  to  retire  from  the 
applause  of  the  crowds  that  followed  Him  from 
every  part  of  the  Decapolis  !  This  lake,  fourteen 
miles  in  length  and  seven  in  breadth,  on  whose 
bosom  once  floated  numberless  ships  of  every 
shape  and  size  ;  where,  in  the  time  of  Titus,  Tra- 
jan and  Yespasianus,  sanguinary  battles  took 
place  between  the  fleets  of  war-vessels  that 


264  GALILEE   AND    SYRIA. 

ploughed  these  waters,  whose  shores  were  a  gar- 
den of  beauty  and  plenty,  swarming  with  indus- 
trious and  wealthy  people,  teeming  with  flourishing 
cities  and  villages — now  it  is  in  such  a  condition 
that  not  more  than  one  or  two  boats  are  seen  dis- 
turbing these  beautiful  waters,  and  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  miserable  village  of  Tiberias,  no 
city  or  town,  no  houses,  are  to  be  seen  on  these 
shores,  notwithstanding  the  richness  of  its  soil ! 
But  where  are  those  cities  now  ?  Oh  !  where  art 
thou  Chorazin  ?  and  Bethsaida  ?  Where  art  thou 
Capharnaum,  that  wast  exalted  even  unto  heaven  ? 
Now  no  city,  no  town,  is  seen  rising  on  its  pic- 
turesque borders,  no  commerce  animates  this  once 
busy  locality  ;  but  a  profound  silence  reigns  over 
this  region,  and  an  undisturbed  solitude  is  seen  in 
every  direction  ;  all  is  still  and  quiet  as  the  grave  ; 
the  boatless  and  shipless  lake  echoes  only  the  songs 
of  birds  that  sport  in  its  neighborhood  ;  yet  the  re 
is  no  desolation,  no  gloom,  on  this  spot.  The 
shores  are  beautiful,  lovely,  and  enchanting  as  a 
paradise.  Long  ranges  of  tombs  are  visible  on 
the  side  of  the  mountain  which  is  the  Cemetery  of 
the  Jerasens.  It  was  from  one  of  these  tombs,  as 
is  believed,  that  the  man  possessed  of  devils, 
rushed  forth,  when  Our  Saviour  rebuked  the  un- 
clean spirits  and  made  them  enter  into  a  herd  of 
swine,  which  ran  violently  down  a  steep  place  into 
the  sea  and  were  drowned.  Tarichea  is  close  to 
this  place,  and  on  the  top  of  the  hill  is  the  site  ot 
the  city  of  Gadara.\ 

One  hour  distant  from  Tiberias,  towards  the 


MAGDALA.  265 

north,  there  are  a  few  houses  called  a  town  ;  it  is 
the  ancient  Magdala(J!/^W),  so  called  on  account 
of  the  strong  fortifications  that  once  rendered  this 
place  impregnable.    It  is  believed  by  some  that 
this  town  was  the  native  place  of  Mary  Magdalen. 
A  Partial  Indulgence  may  be  here  obtained.   Soon 
after  comes  the  site  of  Bethsaida,  which  now  is 
nothing  but  a  mill,  and  the  house  of  the  miller. 
This  is  the  native  place  of  the  Apostles  Peter, 
Andrew  and  Philip,  and  on  these  shores,  James 
and  John,  the  sons  of  Zebedee,  were  repairing 
their  nets  when  Our  Saviour  called  them  to  fol- 
low Him.     Here  the  blind  man  received  his  mi- 
raculous sight.     The  threats  of  Our  Lord  against 
this  incredulous  city,  notwithstanding  the  many 
signs  of  which  she  was  witness,  are  verified  in  its 
total  destruction.     Partial  Indulgence.     A  short 
distance  further,  and  Capharnaum,  the  beloved 
city  of  Christ,  comes  in  sight.     Here  Our  Saviour 
commenced  His  preaching ;  here,  after  the  nup- 
tials in  Cana,  He  came  with  His  Blessed  Mother 
and  disciples  ;  here  He  took  refuge  after  flying 
from  the  Nazarenes,  who  wanted  to  precipitate 
Him  from  a  mountain  ;  here  He  stopped  when  He 
descended  from  Tabor,  after  His  glorious  Trans- 
figuration ;  here  the  Centurion's  servant,  struck 
with  palsy,   was  healed ;    here  He  restored   to 
health  Peter's  mother-in-law  ;  here  He  cured  the 
son  of  Regulus,  who  was  at  the  point  of  death. 
The  woman  that,  for  twelve  years,  suffered  from 
an  issue  of  blood  was  healed  here  ;  two  blind  men 
here  received  sight ;  the  dead  daughter  of  one  of 
n.— 17 


266  GALILEE   AND   SYRIA. 

the  great  men  of  the  city  was  restored  to  life  here  ; 
Matthew,  sitting  at  the  custom-house,  was  called 
to  the  Apostleship  in  this  place  ;  here  He  made 
St.  Peter  extract  from  the  fish  two  drachmas  to 
pay  the  tribute  to  Caesar  ;  and  who  can  enumerate 
the  wonders  performed  by  Our  Divine  Redeemer 
in  this  place,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  excite  the 
envy  of  Nazareth,  and  make  St.  Matthew  call  it 
the  City  of  Christ  ?  Still  Capharnaum  remained 
obstinate  in  its  infidelity  ;  now,  according  to  the 
sentence  pronounced  against  it,  she  is  depressed 
to  hell  in  such  a  manner  that  no  vestige  of  her 
existence  is  visible.  Partial  Indulgence^ 

Crossing  the  Jordan,  which  issues  from  this 
lake,  the  territory  of  Corozain  is  entered  ;  that 
Corozain,  against  which  the  Son  of  God  made  man, 
pronounced  so  many  woes,  because  she  remained 
obdurate  notwithstanding  the  numerous  miracles 
performed  therein,  which,  if  they  had  been 
wrought  in  Tyre  and  in  Sidon,  those  cities  would 
have  done  penance  in  sackcloth  and  ashes.  She 
has  shared  the  same  fate  as  Bethsaida  and  Caph- 
arnaum. Hardly  anything,  except  merely  the 
memory  of  these  three  places,  remains  to  record 
their  sentence.  / 

Not  far  from  Tiberias  there  are  extensive  ruins 
of  the  real  Tiberias,  built  by  Herod  Antipas,  in 
honor  of  Tiberius  Caesar,  on  the  site  where  once 
stood  the  City  of  G-enereth  (Genesareth),  from 
which  the  lake  derives  its  name.  Near  this  place 
are  some  thermal  baths  of  Emmaus,  or  rather  Am- 
maus,  to  which  persons  afflicted  with  every  kind 


MOUNT   TABOR.  267 

of  disease  resort.  These  waters  are  so  hot,  that 
they  appear  boiling.  Near  by  are  found  some 
ruins  which  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of 
walls  of  fortifications  constructed  by  Yespasianus, 
when,  having  taken  Tiberias,  he  was  preparing 
to  conquer  other  cities.  This  place  is  supposed 
to  have  been  called  Enabris./ 

Mount  Tabor  rises,  glorious  and  majestic,  from 
the  luxuriant  plains  of  Esdraelon.  It  has  the 
appearance  of  a  truncated  cone,  and,  at  a  distance, 
looks  like  a  loaf  of  sugar  cut  from  the  top.  Its 
sides  are  rich  with  vegetation,  and  the  centre 
place  is  stocked  with  an  immensity  of  game  of 
every  variety.  But  its  glory  is  for  having  been 
the  mountain  on  whose  top  Christ  in  company 
with  a  few  Apostles  transfigured  Himself,  aud  in 
the  presence  of  Moses  and  Elias  appeared  clothed 
with  white  garments  shining  like  the  Sun.  A 
Plenary  Indulgence  may  be  gained.v 

Incredulous,  modern,  and  sceptical  travelers 
have  endeavored  to  strip  this  mountain  of  its 
honor,  not  only  calling  in  question  the  fact  of  its 
being  the  place  of  the  glorious  Transfiguration  of 
Our  Saviour,  but  even  denying  it  altogether  ;  and, 
while  they  attempt  to  make  a  show  of  erudition 
and  learning,  showing  only  their  ignorance  and 
lack  of  judgment.  The  proof  alleged  by  them  is 
that  at  the  time  of  the  Transfiguration  of  Our  Lord 
the  top  of  Mount  Tabor  was  full  of  houses,  and  that 
the  remains  of  a  town  and  of  fortresses,  repaired 
and  defended  by  Josephus,  are  visible  to  this  day. 
That  a  fortress  might  have  been  built  by  Yes- 


268  GALILEE   AND   SYRIA. 

pasianus  may  be  probable.  Having  taken  Tiberias 
he  entrenched  and  fortified  himself  at  the  foot  of 
Mount  Tabor,  and  it  is  likely  that  he  built  a  fortress 
or  fortified  the  church  which  the  Primitive  Chris- 
tians had  erected  on  the  top  of  that  mountain. 
No  writer  has  ever  mentioned,  nor  has  any  tra- 
dition ever  existed  of  a  town  on  the  top  of  Mount 
Tabor.  The  ruins  of  buildings  and  of  fortifications 
that  are  still  visible,  are  the  remains  of  a  church 
that  was  constructed  there  by  the  Primitive 
Christians  ;  and  the  portion  of  the  wall  that  is 
still  standing,  belongs  to  that  wall  with  which 
Joseph  Flavius  surrounded  the  top  of  that  sacred 
mountain.  Amongst  the  ruins,  are  those  of  the 
church  constructed  by  St.  Helena  ;  those  of  the 
monastery  built  by  the  King  of  Hungary ;  and 
those  of  the  church  constructed  by  Tancredi, 
Prince  of  Galilee,  in  the  time  of  the  Latin  King- 
dom ;  and  the  remains  of  the  fortifications  erected 
by  the  Crusaders.  The  knowledge  of  these  histori- 
cal facts  affords  sufficient  ground  to  the  critical 
traveler  to  account  for  the  ruins  of  buildings 
found  upon  Mount  Tabor,  without  the  necessity  of 
having  recourse  to  the  former  existence  of  an 
imaginary  town,  for  the  sake  of  contradicting  the 
established  tradition,  supported  by  monuments  0f 
every  age,  that  Mount  Tabor  was  the  scene  of  the 
glorious  Transfiguration  of  Our  Saviour.  A  new 
church  and  residence  is  at  present  in  course  of 
construction  on  the  top  of  this  mountains 

The  view  from  this  point  is  most  magnificent. 
The  Lake,  the  whole  of  Galilee,  the  Jordan,  the 


DAMASCUS.  269 

country  behind  it,  the  half  tribe  of  Manasses, 
etc.,  are  visible  in  the  East.  Looking  southward, 
you  enjoy  the  sight  of  the  field  of  Mageddo  and 
Hermoniim,  and  the  Mediterranean  Sea ;  at 
the  north,  the  land  of  Zabulon,  the  chain  of  the 
Libanus  and  Anti-Libanus  mountains,  from  which 
streams  of  water  run  into  the  Lake  of  Tiberias, 
are  visible  from  the  summit  of  Tabor.  The  rising 
and  setting  of  the  sun  viewed  from  this  spot  is 
splendid  beyond  all  description.  It  reminds  me 
of  that  splendor  with  which  the  sacred  face  of 
Our  Saviour  appeared,  nineteen  centuries  ago, 
on  the  top  of  this  mountain  ;  the  type  of  that 
splendor,  which  trusting  in  His  merits  we  hope 
to  enjoy  in  the  Kingdom  of  Heaven./ 

On  the  way  to  Bariias  or  Panias  the  road  which 
is  very  uncomfortable,  passes  through  the  land 
of  Dan.  It  is  necessary  to  stop  at  night  at 
the  Mill  of  Mellahah  at  Banias,  the  ancient 
Ccesarea  Phitippi,  which  is  beautifully  situated 
and  contains  about  1000  inhabitants.  The  Castle 
of  Subeliibeli  behind  the  city,  and  on  the  top  of  an 
isolated  mountain  1,200  feet  high,  is  one  of  the 
best  preserved  ruins  of  Syria.  Above  the  foun- 
tain there  is  a  grove  which  the  Greeks,  during 
their  occupation  of  Syria,  held  as  a  Sanctuary  to 
worship  their  sylvan  deity  Pan.  This  city  was 
built  by  the  Tetrarch  Philip  in  honor  of  Tiberias. 
Herod  the  Great  erected  here  a  magnificent  Tem- 
ple in  honor  of  Augustus.  Bar  Banias  (Jordan) 
is  a  boisterous  river,  and  must  be  crossed  in  this 
locality  by  an  ancient  stone  bridge.  Mount  Her- 


270  GALILEE  AND  SYRIA. 

mon,  which  has  been  seen  towering  from  many 
places  of  the  Holy  Land  is  now  close  at  hand, 
and  nigh  to  this  locality  on  the  right,  the  spot  is 
pointed  out  where  the  miraculous  conversion  of 
St.  Paul  took  place,  to  which  is  attached  a  Par- 
tial Indulgences 

Damascus,  the  oldest  city  in  the  world,  found- 
ed by  Ur,  grand-son  of  Noah,  contains  about 
160,000  inhabitants,  the  majority  of  whom  are 
Mohammedans  ;  still  the  number  of  Christians  is 
large.  The  climate  is  not  considered  very  health}", 
the  air  being  heavy,  and  there  is  such  a  great 
quantity  of  water  in  the  city,  that  its  evaporation 
at  night  creates  a  kind  of  fog  which  is  unwhole- 
some. The  city  is  evidently  oriental,  and  much 
like  Cairo,  but  its  numerous  bazars,  many  of  which 
are  roofed,  are  inferior  to  those  of  Cairo,  except 
those  containing  silks,  whose  damask  draperies 
are  famous  over  the  whole  world.  Like  Cairo  it 
is  divided  into  quarters  for  Christians,  Jews  and 
Turks.  Afc  sun-set  the  gates  of  the  quarters  are 
closed,  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  obtain  admit- 
tance, which  is  never  given  unless  you  are  provided 
with  lanterns.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked 
and  dirty,  even  the  street  called  Straight  is  very 
crooked.  The  buildings  are  very  gloomy  exteri- 
orly, but  most  of  the  houses  are  comfortable 
inside,  and  provided  with  gardens.  Many  walls 
are  nothing  but  mud.  There  are  some  Protestant 
Missionaries  here  but  they  are  despised  by  both 
Christians  and  Turks.  Although  some  of  them  are 
Americans,  and  others  Germans,  yet  they  are 


THE   RIVER   ABANA.  271 

all  called  "Ingliz?  which  name  is  applied  to  them 
in  an  opprobrious  sense.  The  bibles  which  they 
distribute  are  received  by  the  people  for  the  sake 
of  the  cover,  and  the  inside  is  used  to  kindle 
the  fire.  The  great  Cathedral  of  St.  John  Da- 
mascene has  been  turned  into  a  Mosque  ;  it  is  in 
the  form  of  a  Cross,  and  its  court  has  been  sur- 
rounded by  a  grand  cloister  of  pointed  arches  on 
columns  of  Roman  marble.  On  the  site  of  the  house 
of  Ananias,  where  the  conversion  of  St.  Paul 
was  completed  by  his  baptism,  and  where  by  the 
hands  of  the  same  Saint,  he  recovered  his  sight, 
there  is  the  Catholic  Chapel  to  which  is  attached 
a  Partial  Indulgence.  There  is  also  a  Partial 
Indulgence  on  the  window  from  which  St.  Paul 
was  let  down.  It  is  an  old  tower  of  Roman 
architecture.  Near  it  they  point  out  the  grave 
of  St.  George,  the  name  of  a  soldier  who  is  be- 
lieved to  have  been  instrumental  in  the  Apostle's 
escape  ;  ho  became  a  convert  and  was  crowned 
with  martyrdom  on  that  spot.  There  is  a  Partial 
Indulgence  ;  also  on  the  house  of  Jude,  where  St. 
Paul  remained  three  days,  and  another  in  the 
church,  in  which  is  the  fountain  where  St.  Paul 
was  baptized.  Although  one  of  the  boasts  of  the 
inhabitants  is,  that  the  Standard  of  the  Cross  was 
never  hoisted  in  this  city,  still  there  are  four 
Convents  and  Churches  belonging  to  different 
Catholic  rites.  \ 

There  is  a  fine  road  direct  from  Damascus  to 
Beyrout,  but  the  customary  route  is  to  go  by  Li- 
banus  and  Baalbec.  The  road  from  Damascus 


272  GALILEE   AKD   SYRIA. 

to  Zibdanieh,  the  summer  residence  of  the  Dam- 
ascene aristocracy,  is  a  paradise  of  charming 
gardens  and  groves  of  olive,  almond,  mulberry,  and 
walnut  trees.  The  mountains  of  Anti-Libanus 
rise  in  the  rear  to  the  height  of  700  feet,  The 
beautiful  and  luxuriant  verdure  which  covers  the 
banks  of  the  river  Barrada,  makes  the  valley  of 
the  same  name  a  most  lovely  country.  Barada 
or  Barrada  is  considered  to  possess  the  finest 
water  in  Syria.  This  is  the  river  Abana  of  which 
Naaman  boasted,  saying,  "  Are  not  Ab&na  (this 
river)  and  Pharpar,  rivers  of  Damascus,  better 
than  all  the  waters  of  Israel  1"  The  road  passes 
through  the  village  of  Suk-Wady-Barada,  which 
is  the  Abila  of  the  ancients,  where  Cleopatra 
ordered  the  murder  of  Lysanias.i 

Leaving  this  village,  which  contains  about 
3,500  inhabitants,  the  gigantic  ruins  of  Baalbec 
appear  in  sight.  The  magnificent  city  of  Baal- 
bec, of  which  nothing  now  remains  but  a  miser- 
able village  of  500  people,  is  still  the  wonder  of 
the  world.  Baalbec  means  City  of  the  Sun. 
Baalbec  in  Syriac  corresponds  to  the  Heliopolis 
of  the  Greeks.  The  remains  of  its  Cyclopean 
Temples,  are  in  vain  searched  for  in  any  other 
part  of  the  Globe.  Egypt,  Sicily,  Poestum,  Fiesole, 
Greece  and  Rome,  have  nothing  to  compare  with 
them.  It  is  sufficient  to  say  that  on  the  west 
face  there  are  three  stones  of  such  huge  dimen- 
sions, that  their  joint  length  is  over  150  feet. 
Some  others  have  been  measured  and  found  to 
be  sixty-six  feet  in  length  by  twenty  in  height 


BAALBEC.  273 

and  twelve  feet  deep,  raised  to  a  height  of  twenty 
feet.  No  mechanical  machinery  now  known, 
would  be  able  to  place  these  stones  in  their  pre- 
sent position.  Outside  of  this  platform  on  the 
south-west  corner,  there  is  a  Cyclopean  Masonry, 
many  of  whose  stones  measure  thirty  feet  in  length 
by  fifteen  in  width  and  thirteen  deep.  On  this 
platform  stood  three  Temples — the  Temple  of  the 
Sun  (Baal),  the  Temple  of  Jupiter,  and  the  Cir- 
cular Temple.  / 

The  Temple  of  the  Sun  is  now  replaced  by  the 
magnificent  Roman  one,  whose  six  remaining 
columns  of  the  Corinthian  order,  tower  above 
the  whole  mass  of  ruins.  Beneath  the  entire 
platform  which  supports  these  huge  temples  there 
are  immense  vaulted  passages,  two  of  them  longi- 
tudinal, and  two  lateral,  of  great  breadth.  The 
style  of  these  foundations  is  very  similar  to  that 
of  the  foundation  of  the  Temple  of  Solomon  in 
Jerusalem.  The  stones  are  beveled  but  they  are 
of  a  much  larger  size  ;  this  circumstance  has  given 
reason  to  some  persons  to  conjecture  that  Baalbec 
wavS  the  house  of  the  forest  of  Libanus,  built  by 
Solomon  for  his  Egyptian  wife.  Wiser  critics,  how- 
ever, are  of  opinion,  that  the  house  of  the  forest 
of  Libanus  was  built  in  Jerusalem,  on  Mount 
Moriah,  on  the  site  at  present  occupied  by  the 
Church  of  the  Presentation^ 

The  Great  Temple,  or  the  Temple  of  the  Sun, 
was  290  feet  long  and  160  feet  wide.  Of  the  fifty- 
four  lofty  Corinthian  columns,  which  once  sur- 
rounded this  colossal  edifice,  there  are  but  six 


274  GALILEE   AND   SYRIA. 

standing.  Their  shafts  are  fifty-four  feet  high,  and 
seven  feet  three  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base  ; 
nearly  twenty -two  feet  in  circumference,  and  the 
whole  height  of  the  pillars,  including  the  pedestal 
and  capital,  is  seventy -five  feet.  The  stones  form- 
ing the  entablature  were  fastened  together  by 
wrought-iron  clasps  one  foot  thick./ 

Nothing  is  known  of  the  origin  of  these  wonder- 
ful ruins.  We  are  only  acquainted  with  the  facts 
that  Baalbec  passed  successfully  under  the  rule  of 
the  Persians,  Greeks  and  Komans,  and  that  it  was 
plundered  by  the  Tartars  in  the  year  639  A.D., 
who  finally  sacked  and  demolished  it  under  Tam- 
erlane. Some  have  been  of  opinion  that  the 
magnificent  Temple  of  the  Sun  was  built  by  An- 
toninus Pius,  or  by  Septimus  Severus,  but  they 
have  no  other  foundation  for  this  assertion,  ex- 
cept that  this  temple  was  first  represented  upon 
the  medals  of  those  Emperors.  Others  give  to  the 
Temple  of  Jupiter,  the  name  "Temple  of  the  Sun  ;" 
but  this  opinion  cannot  be  correct,  because  the 
Temple  of  Baal  (generally  known  as  the  great 
temple)  is  that  of  the  Sun,  Baal  meaning  Sun.  In 
this  case  there  would  be  two  temples  of  the  Sun 
close  to  each  other,  which  does  not  appear  to  be 
very  probable.  Under  Constantine  this  temple 
was  converted  into  a  Catholic  Church,  and  it  re- 
mained so  until  its  conquest  by  the  Arabs.  There 
is  also  here  one  of  the  finest  Koman  halls,  with 
splendid  porticoes,  ornamented  with  beautiful 
marble  statues  of  Jupiter,  Diana  and  Leda,  and 
five  bas-relievos,  and  busts  of  Roman  Emperors. 


BEYROUT.  275 

These  monuments  evidently  belong  to  two  dis- 
tinct periods,  namely,  to  the  third  Cyclopean,  and 
to  the  best  period  of  the  Eoman  Empire.  The 
Saracens  have  converted  a  part  of  the  temple  in- 
to a  fortress  employing  in  it  materials  from 
monuments./ 

About  three  quarters  of  a  mile  distant  are  the 
quarries,  from  which  these  huge  stones  were  taken. 
One  still  remains,  hewn  all  round,  and  cut,  except 
one  foot,  which  remains  still  attached  to  the  quar- 
ry. The  stone  measures  sixty-nine  feet  in  length 
by  seventeen  in  width,  and  fourteen  in  depth.  In 
Baalbec,  there  is  a  Catholic  Greek  Church.  The 
Catholic  Greek  Bishop  of  Baalbec  resides  here 
with  a  priest.  Their  holiness,  hospitality,  apos- 
tolic poverty  and  humility,  not  only  in  their  coun- 
tenances, but  in  their  humble  and  unpretending 
dwelling,  reminds  the  traveler  of  the  time  of  the 
Apostles.v 

The  journey  from  Baalbec  to  Beyrout  occupies 
sixteen  hours,  and  is  accomplished  in  two  days, 
stopping  at  Zahleh.  The  ride  is  through  magnifi- 
cent scenery,  and  after  making  the  ascent  of  Liba- 
nus,  the  scenery  becomes  some  of  the  loveliest  in 
Syria.  In  Libanus  the  people  are  nearly  all 
Christians,  and  mostly  Catholics,  belonging  to  the 
Maronite  rite.  There  is  a  Partial  Indulgence  on 
this  holy  mountain,  and  another  on  the  church 
built  on  it.  At  some  distance  on  the  right,  the  fa- 
mous cedars  may  be  discerned  towering  and  ris- 
ing majestically  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  so 
much  celebrated  in  the  Holy  Scriptures.  At  pres- 


276  GALILEE    AND   SYRIA. 

ent  there  are  not  many  to  be  seen.  Zahleh  is 
beautifully  situated  in  a  deep  glen,  and  contains 
10,000  inhabitants,  mostly  Catholics.\ 

Beyrout  is  a  city  of  50,000  inhabitants,  and  is 
finely  situated  on  a  promontory  projecting  into 
the  Mediterranean  ;  it  may  be  styled  the  seaport 
and  outlet  of  Damascus.  Beyrout  is  by  no  means 
a  handsome  city,  its  streets  being  crooked,  nar- 
row, and  not  adapted  to  carriages,  and,  like  Jaffa 
and  Jerusalem,  these  conveyances  are  never  seen  ; 
but  it  is  considered  one  of  the  healthiest  towns  in 
Syria  ;  and  its  suburbs  are  surrounded  by  com- 
modious houses  and  groves  of  excellent  fruit  trees, 
and  flower  gardens.  The  cultivation  of  the  mul- 
berry-tree is  the  principal  industry  of  this  city. 
There  are  no  buildings  of  any  consequence,  but 
there  you  may  see  some  fine  relics  of  antiquity, 
consisting  of  the  remains  of  a  moat,  baths,  and 
some  pillars.  There  are  many  Catholics,  and 
there  is  a  Partial  Indulgence  attached  to  this  city, 
and  also  to  every  Catholic  Church  therein.x 
\Austrian,  French,  Russian  and  Turkish  steam- 
ers touch  at  Beyrout,  going  and  coming  from  Con- 
stantinople. I  embarked  on  a  Russian  steamer,  on 
my  return  homeward  through  Greece.  Travelers 
not  desirous  of  going  to  Constantinople  may  pro- 
ceed to  Smyrna,  and  then  they  can  obtain  a  trans- 
fer for  Sora,  Athens  or  Sicily,  or  direct  to  Mar- 
seilles. My  intention  was  to  return  to  Italy  via 
Brindisi.\ 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

THE   LEVANT   AND    GREECE. 

\  SAIL  ON  A  RUSSIAN  STEAMER — A  GREEK  QUACK — A  LEADER  OF  MUSSULMAN  PIL- 
GRIMS— CYPRUS — RHODES — PATMOS — SAMOS7— SMYRNA — EPHESUS — I.  (ECUMENI- 
CAL COUNCIL  OF  EPHESUS II.  O3CUMENICAL  COUNCIL  REJECTED  BY  THE  POPE 

SAIL   TO  PIRAEUS ATHENS NAUPLIA — MYCENCCE — CORINTH PATRAS — ZANTE 

— CORFti.\ 

1 1  EMBARKED  on  a  Russian  steamer,  which  was 
very  good,  and  well  officered.  The  captain  was 
an  old  officer,  and  well  experienced  in  his  task  of 
running  the  steamer  between  Odessa,  in  the  Black 
Sea,  and  Alexandria  in  Egypt.  He  was  a  per- 
fect gentleman  in  his  manners,  and  spoke  French 
fluently.  Several  of  the  servants  were  Italians, 
and  most  of  the  officers  spoke  Italian.  The  fare 
was  excellent,  and  prepared  after  the  Eussian 
style.  Dinner  was  always  opened  with  a  bottle 
of  gin  of  the  best  quality,  and  at  table,  at  all 
meals  there  were  two  qualities  of  wine,  black  and 
white.  The  wines  were  from  the  Crimea,  and  of 
a  superior  flavor.  I  never  thought  that  Russia 
produced  such  fine  wine.  Excellent  pears  and 
apples  come  also  from  the  Crimea,  and  were  fur- 
nished at  all  times.  On  board  this  steamer  I  re- 
marked two  strange  incidents.  One  was  a  Greek, 

(277) 


278  THE   LEVANT   AND    GREECE. 

a  kind  of  quack,  a  cunning-looking  fellow,  play- 
ing like  a  juggler,  poorly  clad,  but  the  style  of  his 
dress  was  Frank  and  not  Grecian,  around  whom 
nearly  all  the  passengers  had  crowded.  After 
several  plays  and  dances,  he  took  a  little  hand- 
furnace,  and  came  on  top  of  that  part  of  the  steam- 
er reserved  for  first-class  passengers.  He  kin- 
dled his  fire,  and  commenced  to  prepare  coffee, 
and  while  preparing  it  he  danced  round  the  fur- 
nace pronouncing  words  which  we  could  not  un- 
derstand. The  coffee  being  ready,  he  took  small 
cups,  saucers,  and  tea  spoons,  pat  in  it  something 
looking  like  cinnamon,  and  offered  it  to  the  spec- 
tators, who,  distrusting  him,  refused  even  to  taste 
it,  except  one  man,  who  drank  it,  and  he  was  sup- 
posed to  be  a  confederate  of  his.  He  continued 
these  kind  of  tricks  to  the  annoyance  of  the  pas- 
sengers, who  applied  to  an  officer  to  clear  him  out 
of  the  first-class  passenger  deck.\ 

The  other  was  a  rich  Mussulman.  He  was  re- 
turning from  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  in  company 
with  a  large  number  of  deck  passengers,  all  pil- 
grims from  Mecca,  and  his  countrymen.  He  ap- 
peared to  be  a  leader,  or  holding  some  office.  He 
was  so  much  attached  to  them  that  he  was  always 
in  their  company.  Although  he  was  a  first-class 
passenger  and  had  his  state-room  close  to  mine, 
yet  he  always  slept  on  deck  in  their  company. 
He  never  sat  at  table  with  us,  but  always  took 
his  meals  with  them  on  deck.  The  captain  told 
me  that  he  would  apply  to  the  Russian  Govern- 
ment not  to  allow  Mussulmans  in  the  cabin  be- 


PILGRIMS   FROM   MECCA.  279 

cause  they  are  not  clean  ;  they  never  use  beds, 
never  undress  themselves  when  they  sleep,  but 
throw  themselves,  men,  women  and  children  all 
together  on  large  divans  ;  of  course  cleanliness 
cannot  be  expected.  This  manner  of  sleeping  is 
a  Turkish  custom,  with  few  exceptions,  almost  uni- 
versal in  their  private  houses.  In  Jerusalem,  the 
Italian  doctor,  who  had  been  very  successful  in 
his  practice,  was  continually  telling  me  that  an 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  the  recovery  of  their  sick 
was  the  want  of  beds,  because  their  divans  are 
inconvenient,  especially  in  sickness  ;  and  if  he  in- 
tended to  remain  in  that  city,  he  would  establish 
an  apartment  with  beds  to  accommodate  sick  peo- 
ple till  their  recovery./ 

This  rich  Mussulman  very  often  came  to  me, 
and  conversed  with  me,  but  I  could  not  under- 
stand him.  Once,  when  the  sea  was  very  rough, 
he  came  to  me,  very  much  alarmed,  and  pointing 
to  the  waves  at  a  great  distance,  said  to  me, 
"  Gran  fortuna  !  granfortuna  !"  As  this  is  an 
Italian  expression,  I  understood  him  to  mean  that 
he  hoped  to  have  good  luck.  Supposing  that  he 
understood  some  Italian,  I  replied,  "Si!  Si,  Sig- 
nor,  granfortuna"  assenting  to  what  he  had  said 
with  a  nod  of  my  head.  He  got  affrighted,  and, 
full  of  consternation,  ran  to  his  people  to  tell  a 
sad  story.  I  felt  surprised  at  this  affair,  and 
speaking  to  the  captain,  he  laughed  and  explained 
to  me  that  the  Mussulmans  by  that  expression, 
mean  a  very  severe  sea  storm .\ 

The  sail  to  Smyrna  is  most  delightful,  passing 


280         THE  LEVANT  AND  GREECE. 

by  so  many  classic  islands.  Cyprus,  whose  charm- 
ing shores  received  Venus  when  she  emerged  from 
the  foam  of  the  sea,  appears  gradually  rising  from 
the  azure  deep  ;  her  lofty  mountains  soon  show 
their  majesty  upon  the  horizon.     It  is  in  vain  that 
the  eyes  search  after  Paphos,  Amathusia,  Salamis, 
and  Olympus,  once  towering  with  a  rich  Temple 
of  Yenus,  to  whom  this  Island  was  sacred.     Leav- 
ing this  classic  island,  Anatolia  makes  its  appear- 
ance, presenting  that  Makri  so  justly  dreaded  and 
shunned  by  travelers,  on  account  of  the  robbers 
and  assassins  that  infest  its  highways.   Having  en- 
tered the  Sporades,  Ehodes  comes  forward  with 
its  abrupt  limestone  hills.     Its  mediaeval  tower  is 
visible,  and  so  also  is  St.  John's  church,  with  an 
abominable  minaret.     The  palace  of  the  Grand 
Master  of  the  Knights  is  clearly  discernible.     In 
the  northern  promontory  of  the  Gulf  of  Stanco, 
lies  Budrun,  the  ancient  Halicarnassus.     Patmos, 
the  place  of  exile  of  St.  John  the  evangelist,  and 
where  he  wrote  the  book  of  Revelation,  is  looked 
for  with  great  anxiety  by   Christian  travelers. 
Samos,  the   native   place   of  Pythagoras   and  of 
Juno,  and  for  a  long  time  the  residence  of  Hero- 
dotus, who  here  wrote  his  celebrated  history,  soon 
comes  in  sight.    That  Samos,  whose  rich  fleets  of- 
ten made  the   Persians  tremble,  although  fallen 
down  and  neglected,  can  yet  show  the  marvellous 
ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Juno,  (Heraeum).     It  was 
here  that  the  first  bronze  statue  was  cast.     Close 
to  it  is  the  little  island  of  Icaria  (Nicari ),  near 
which  Icarus,  son  of  Daedalus,  fell  into  the  sea  and 


SMYRNA.  281 

his  body  floated  on  shore.  Rounding  the  island 
of  Scio,  where  valuable  remains  of  the  school  of 
Homer  and  the  Temple  of  Neptune  are  yet  visi- 
ble, the  steamer  leaving  to  the  north  Mitylene,  the 
ancient  Lesbos,  the  birth-place  of  the  immortal 
Sappho,  enters  the  Gulf  of  Smyrna,  and  drops 
anchor  in  the  great  port  of  Asia  Minor.  \ 

Smyrna  is  the  second  large  city  in  Turkey,  and 
the  largest  in  Asia  Minor,  and  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  180,000  inhabitants,  half  of  whom  are 
Greeks,  60,000  Turks,  10,000  Jews,  and  the  oth- 
ers belong  to  nearly  every  nation.  There  are 
also  Persians  and  Gypsies.  This  city  claims  to 
have  been  founded  by  Alexander  the  Great.  It 
is  the  emporium  of  the  Greek  trade  of  the  Le- 
vant ;  but  its  commerce  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of 
the  English,  French,  Italians,  and  Dutch.  Like 
the  rest  of  the  Turkish  cities,  it  is  divided  into 
quarters  ;  it  is  gloomy,  and  its  streets  are  narrow, 
crooked,  and  dirty.  There  are  many  fine  bazars. 
The  Byzantine  Castle  is  on  the  site  of  the  Acropo- 
lis, and  contains  many  remains.  The  corner  near- 
est to  the  city  is  Cyclopean,  and  the  further  walls 
were  built  by  Lysander.  The  antiquities  around 
Smyrna  are  numerous;  the  baths  of  Diana,  Mobe, 
the  Lake  of  Tantalus,  and  the  Cyclopean  Cities. 
Magnesia  is  still  in  existence,  not  far  from  Smyr- 
na, and  at  present  is  accessible  by  railway.  The 
baths  of  Agamemnon  are  fine  relics  of  old  times, 
and  many  other  monuments  proclaim  the  glories 
of  this  place. j 

But  the  lion  of  Smyrna,  and  its  environs,  is 
n.— 18. 


282  THE   LEVANT   AND    GREECE. 

Ephesus,  at  present  called  Ayasouloock,  forty-eight 
miles  south  of  Smyrna,  and  approached  by  a  fine 
railroad.  Ephesus,  once  the  capital  of  the  Sara- 
cenic Sultans,  the  sacred  city  of  Pagans  and  Chris- 
tians, and  the  metropolis  of  Ionia,  is  now  a  mis- 
erable village  of  500  inhabitants.  Yet  it  is  one 
of  the  great  attractions  to  the  learned,  and  the 
antiquarian.  According  to  Justin,  this  city  was 
built  by  the  Amazons  ;  but  according  to  Strabo, 
by  Androcbus,  the  son  of  Codrus.  This  was  the 
birth-place  of  Diana,  whose  magnificent  temple, 
called  Artemision,  was  the  wonder  of  the  world. 
To  mention  all  the  classic  ruins,  would  be  foreign 
to  my  purpose.  Yet  I  must  record  that  here  are 
the  remains  of  the  Cyclopean  city  of  the  Amazons. 
Apollo  was  born  here,  and  here  Latona  took 
refuge.  This  is  the  place  of  the  metamorphosis 
of  Syrinx  into  a  reed  ;  the  lurking  country  of 
Pan  ;  the  watching-place  of  Juno,  and  the  asylum 
of  Apollo  on  Mount  Solmissus.  Here  was  the  death- 
place  of  Orion,  at  Ortygia,  the  Panionium  the  cap- 
ture of  Passalus  and  Achemon  by  Hercules  on 
Mount  Pion.  Here  is  the  great  Agora,  where  An- 
thony presided  over  his  court,  and  went  forth  to  at- 
tend Cleopatra.  Here  is  shown  the  tomb  of  St.  John 
the  Evangelist,  and  of  St.  Timothy,  the  Cave  of 
the  Seven  Sleepers,  and  the  Portico  of  the  Agora, 
where  .  ustin  Martyr  disputed  with  Tryphon  the 
Jew.  This  city  has  long  claimed  to  have  given 
birth  to  Homer.  Bacchus,  Croesus,  Artemisia, 
Queen  of  Caria,  and  many  other  great  personages 
are  connected  with  Ephesus.  \ 


EPHESUS.  283 

But  one  of  the  greatest  dignities  of  Ephesus  is 
its  having  been  the  place  of  the  celebration  of  the 
Third  (Ecumenical  Council  in  341,  under  Pope  St. 
Celestinus,  and  the  Emperor  Theodosius  II.; 
where  Nestorius,  Bishop  of  Constantinople,  was 
condemned  by  two  hundred  and  seventy-four 
Oriental  Fathers.  Nestorius  contended  that  in 
Christ  there  were  two  natures  and  two  persons, 
divine  and  human  ;  hence,  as  a  consequence,  the 
Blessed  Virgin  was  not  the  Mother  of  God,  but 
only  ChristotocoSj  which  would  destroy  the  mys- 
tery of  the  Incarnation.  He  was  condemned,  and 
it  was  declared  that  in  Christ  there  were  two  na- 
tures, divine  and  human,  but  only  one  divine  per- 
son ;  hence  the  Blessed  Virgin  was  truly  Moth- 
er of  God  ;  that  is,  Theotocos  and  not  CJiristotocos, 
as  the  heresiarch  Nestorius  blasphemed.  The 
Christians  at  Ephesus  had  gathered  in  crowds 
around  the  hall,  where  the  Fathers  were  assem- 
bled, and  were  waiting  with  great  anxiety  the  de- 
cision of  the  council,  whose  session  had  been  pro- 
longed till  late  in  the  night.  When  the  declara- 
tion was  announced  that  Mary  was  Mother  of 
God,  the  Christians  were  so  pleased  and  jubilant, 
that  they  accompanied  with  lights,  all  the  Fathers 
to  their  houses,  singing  hymns  in  honor  of  the 
Mother  of  God.  This  decree  reached  Rome  just  at 
Christmas,  where  it  was  received  with  immense 
joy  and  festivity  ;  and  it  was  on  this  occasion  that 
the  Church  added  to  the  angelical  salutation  the 
words,  "  Sancta  Maria,  Mater  Dei,  ora  pronoHs 
peccatoribus"\ 


284  THE   LEVANT   AND    GREECE. 

Ephesus  is  noted  for  the  other  (Ecumenical 
Council  rejected  and  condemned  by  the  Pope. 
This  council  was  held  in  449,  under  Pope  St.  Leo 
I.,  and  the  Emperor  Theodosius  II.  the  younger. 
The  Pope  sent  his  delegates  in  the  person  of  the 
Bishop  of  Pozzuoli,  a  deacon  and  a  Boman  priest, 
who  died  on  the  way.  A  number  of  very  wicked 
bishops  were  present  at  that  council,  who,  with 
foul  tricks,  threats,  and  blows,  succeeded  in  deceiv- 
ing the  other  bishops  who  dissented  from  them, 
but  who,  through  fear  and  selfishness,  subscribed 
to  the  paper  prepared  by  Dioscorus,  Patriarch  of 
Alexandria,  a  wicked,  proud,  and  rich  prelate. 
In  this  paper  they  assented  to  the  heresy  of 
Eutiches,  and  absolved  him  of  excommunication. 
They  excommunicated,  deposed,  and  brutally 
beat  St.  Flavian,  patriarch  of  Constantinople, 
who,  three  days  afterwards,  died  of  his  wounds 
in  Epipa,  a  city  of  Lydia,  whither  he  and  four 
other  good  bishops,  had  been  relegated,  because 
they  had  the  courage  to  perform  their  duty,  and 
tell  the  truth,  and  give  up  office,  liberty  and  even 
their  lives,  rather  than  subscribe  to  heresy. 
Eusebius,  Bishop  of  Dorilea,  who,  with  great 
<3ourage  resisted  their  evil  doings,  was  excommu- 
nicated, deposed,  and  sent  to  jail.  The  delegates 
of  the  Pope  refused  to  subscribe  to  the  acts,  and 
fled  to  Rome  by  secret  roads.  St.  Leo  rejected 
that  council,  styling  it  in  his  letter  to  the  clergy, 
Latrocinium  JiJphesmum.  Here  is  another 
proof  that  in  (Ecumenical  Councils  the  Bishops 
may  err,  and  through  fear,  favor  of  princes,  dan- 


ATHENS.  285 

ger  of  being  deprived  of  office  and  property,  and 
for  other  human  reasons  may  transgress  their 
duty,  forget  the  truth,  and  embrace  error.  The 
Pope  never  did  so  ;  proving  that  his  signature 
only,  and  not  that  of  the  Bishops,. is  infallible  in 
(Ecumenical  Councils,  because  he  is  the  pillar  of 
truth  when  acting  ex  cathedra,  and  not  the  Bishops./ 

From  Smyrna  to  Syra  is  only  twelve  hours  sail. 
Syra  is  one  of  the  Cyclades  that  ornament  the 
Archipelagus,  and  is  a  part  of  modern  Greece.  This 
island  is  a  great  centre  of  steam  navigation.  Its 
excellent  harbor  affords  a  safe  refuge  to  every 
ship,  and  the  beautiful  city,  rising  like  an  amphi- 
theatre, gives  every  assistance  to  sailors  of  all 
nations.  Eight  hours  sail  and  Piraeus  is  reached  ; 
that  Piraeus  which  is  justly  considered  to  be  the 
most  perfect  harbor  in  the  world,  although  it  is 
not  very  large.  It  is  the  Port  of  Athens,  which 
city  ought  to  thank  Themistocles  for  this  advan- 
tage and  benefit,  but  this  ungrateful  metropolis  of 
civilization,  arts  and  sciences,  banished  him,  and 
even  sought  his  death.\ 

The  distance  from  Piraeus  to  Athens  is  about 
live  miles  upon  a  good  and  safe  road,  on  account  of 
being  continually  traveled.  On  the  road  the  grave 
of  Themistocles  is  seen  at  a  distance  ;  the  sweet 
groves  of  the  Academy,  the  long  range  of  Parnes, 
marking  the  sacred  way  to  Eleusis  ;  Citharon, 
the  thyme-clad  Hymettus,  and  the  lofty  marble 
mountains  of  Pentelicon  are  also  visible  from  the 
road  .\ 

Athens,  the  capital  of  Greece,  is  famous   for 


286  THE   LEVANT   AND   GREECE. 

what  it  was,  and  Dot  for  what  it  is  at  present.  It 
contains  about  40,000  inhabitants,  and  is  not  a 
beautiful  city  ;  its  streets  are  narrow,  and  the 
buildings  are  generally  poor-looking.  Yet  this 
city  was  once  the  capital  of  a  most  flourishing  re- 
public, whose  feats  in  arts  and  sciences  and  arms 
rendered  it  superior  to  every  other  nation.  The 
Greeks  can  boast  that  even  when  they  were  con- 
quered, they  coDquered  their  conquerors,  commu- 
nicating to  them  their  manners,  learning,  and  arts. 
The  Propylon  and  Parthenon  considered  a  mi- 
racle of  art,  rebuilt  during  the  administration  of 
Pericles,  444  years  before  Christ,  was  two  hun- 
dred and  seventeen  feet  long,  niDety-eight  wide 
aDd  sixty-five  high.  Here  stood  the  famous  statue 
of  Minerva  by  Phidias ;  a  real  master-piece  of 
art,  made  of  ivory,  forty-six  feet  high,  whose  gold 
decorations  alone  were  worth  over  half  a  million 
of  dollars.  This  edifice  was  destroyed  by  the  ex- 
plosion of  a  powder  magazine  during  the  Venetian 
siege  in  1687,  and  what  remains  of  it,  is  enclosed 
in  the  Acropolis,  which  was  entered  by  the  Pro- 
pylon,  the  ancient  gateway  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Acropolis.  What  remains  of  this  wonderful  struc- 
ture is  sufficient  to  strike  the  spectator  with  ven- 
eration, astonishment  and  awe.  A  peristyle  of 
forty-eight  Doric  columns  surrounded  the  walls  of 
the  principal  building.  The  edifice  was  divided 
into  two  sections,  the  ceiling  of  which  was  support- 
ed by  columns  of  the  finest  white  marble  from 
Mount  Pentelicon.  The  Parthenon  was  consecra- 
4ued  to  Minerva,  the  tutelar  deity  of  the  Athenians. 


NAUPLIA,    MYCENJE,  ETC.  287 

It  is  not  safe  to  visit  the  places  surrounding 
Athens,  on  account  of  the  many  robbers  that  in- 
fest those  localities  ;  yet  there  are  antiquities 
enough  in  the  city  to  entertain  a  traveler  for  a 
few  hours./ 

In  the  lower  town  there  is  a  Doric  Temple 
formerly  dedicated  to  the  demigod  Theseus,  but 
now  is  converted  into  a  museum.  The  tribunal 
of  the  Areopagus,  the  theatre  of  Bacchus,  and 
the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  the  Olympian  Jupiter, 
are  still  visible.  But  what  a  reflection  to  think 
that  here  Socrates  lived,  and  suffered  ;  here  Plato 
walked  ;  here  JEschylus  and  Sophocles  sang  !  .  .  . 
Amongst  the  modern  buildings  the  King's  Palace, 
Mint,  and  a  few  more  edifices  are  seen.  Yet 
Greece  is  rising  again,  and  if  the  Greeks  could 
shake  off  the  barbarian  hordes  of  invaders,  that 
glorious  country  would  once  more  rise  to  enlight- 
en other  nations./ 

The  most  pleasant  way  to  go  to  Corfu  is  to  take 
the  boat  to  Nauplia,  thence  by  land  to  Corinth, 
whence  a  fine  steamer  sails  regularly  for  Corfu. 
It  is  proposed  to  cut  the  isthmus  of  Corinth,  and 
run  a  steamer  direct  from  Brindisi  to  Athens. 
Nero  began  to  dig  a  canal  through  this  isthmus, 
but  his  successors  were  ashamed  to  complete  a 
work  commenced  by  the  most  infamous  monster 
of  iniquity  that  ever  disgraced  humanity.  The 
way  to  Nauplia  is  most  pleasant.  The  once  rich 
JEgina  shows  its  Doric  Temple  of  Jupiter  for  a 
long  part  of  the  voyage,  and  the  beautiful  Islands 
of  Hydra  and  Spezzia  keep  company  with  the 


288        THE  LEVANT  AND  GBEEOE. 

steamer  for  a  long  time.  Hydra  is  a  beautiful 
city,  rising  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre.  The 
Gulf  of  Nauplia  (of  Romania),  is  soon  reached. 
The  Palamede,  the  Acropolis  of  Nauplia,  reminds 
one  of  the  heroism  of  the  Greeks,  in  wresting  it 
from  their  Turkish  oppressors.  The  Acropolis  of 
Argos  becomes  visible,  and  the  ruins  of  Mycenae, 
the  royal  seat  and  tomb  of  Agamemnon,  makes  its 
appearance  at  a  distance.  The  ruins  of  Tiryns, 
the  home  of  Hercules,  son  of  Jupiter  and  Alc- 
mena,  consist  of  Cyclopean  masonry  of  the  first 
period.  The  remains  of  Mycenae  are  also  Cyclo- 
pean masonry  of  quadrilateral  stones  of  the  third 
period.  Other  ruins  are  passed  of  masonry  be- 
longing to  the  second  Cyclopean  period.  The 
road  from  Mycenae  to  Nemaea  is  beautiful, 
but  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  is  represented  only  by 
three  Doric  columns,  standing  in  the  centre,  with 
ruins  scattered  around.  A  single  shepherd  now 
occupies  the  lovely  plain  of  Nemaea.  On  the  road 
from  the  brow  of  a  hill  to  the  south-east  is  the 
cave  of  the  Nemean  Lion./ 

The  Gulf  of  Corinth  is  most  beautiful ;  Parnas- 
sus to  the  north-west,  Helicon  in  front,  and  Parnes, 
and  Hymettus,  making  still  a  dim  appearance  to 
the  east.  To  the  right  the  lofty  heights  of  Acro- 
corinthus  form  an  enchanting  scene. 

Corinth  was  founded  by  the  famous  Sisyphus, 
but  of  its  ancient  splendor  nothing  remains  ex- 
cept a  few  ruins.  The  extravagance,  luxury  and 
pride  of  the  inhabitants  were  proverbially  too 
great  for  many  people  to  live  there,  hence  the 


CORINTH CORFU.  289 

proverb,  "  non  cuivis  homini  licet  adire  Corinth- 
urn,"  (it  is  not  for  every  man  to  go  to  Corinth). 
At  present  all  is  gone  ;  there  is  a  poor,  miserable 
tavern,  which  is  not  fit  to  lodge  gentlemen.  The 
three  harbors  are  filled  with  sand.  St.  Paul  lived 
here  about  eighteen  months.  A  few  beautiful 
columns  belonging  to  the  Temple  of  Venus,  the 
goddess  of  the  city,  are  the  only  things  to  be 
seen  ;  yet  much  might  be  obtained  by  excavation, 
as  capitals  and  bas-reliefs  are  found  in  great  num- 
bers. Near  Callimachi,  on  the  Saronic  Gulf,  is 
Cenchrea  (or  Cenchrece),  the  eastern  harbor  from 
whence  St.  Paul  departed,  but  no  remains  exist  of 
it.  Near  this  locality  is  the  great  Stadium  of 
the  Isthmian  Games,  and  the  remains  of  a  forum. 
From  here  the  steamer  is  taken  for  Corfu ;  she 
stops  a  short  time  at  Patras,  where  St.  Andrew 
received  martyrdom,  and  where  no  traces  can  be 
found  of  any  ancient  church./ 

The  mountains  of  Epirus  now  appear,  rising 
majestic  above  the  sea.  The  towering  summits  of 
Acarnania  on  the  opposite  coast,  are  clearly  ob- 
served. The  steamer  makes  a  short  stay  at  Zante, 
(the  ancient  Zacynthus,)  the  capital  of  the  Island 
of  the  same  name,  one  of  the  Ionian  Islands.  It 
is  a  town  of  20,000  souls,  pleasantly  situated,  and 
looks  like  an  Italian  town  ;  it  possesses  a  spacious 
harbor.  Passing  Maura,  with  Sappho's  Leap,  the 
steamer  enters  the  commodious  harbor  of  Corfu./ 

This  Island,  the  principal  of  the  Ionian  Group, 
rises  beautifully  from  the  sea.  The  capital  of  this 
island,  and  of  the  seven  Ionian  Islands  is  also 


290  THE   LEVANT   AND    GREECE. 

called  Corfu,  and  it  is  the  ancient  Corcyra.  The 
city  is  very  old,  and  the  streets  are  narrow  and 
crooked.  The  view  from  the  top  of  the  Citadel  is 
magnificent,  and  the  pass  of  Pantaleone  is  grand. 
Past  the  village  of  Castrades  there  is  a  beautiful 
walk  to  the  One-G-un  Battery,  where  fable  and  tra- 
dition say  that  Ulysses'  ship  was  wrecked,  and 
transformed  into  the  chapel-crowned  inlet  be- 
neath the  spectator's  eye.  In  the  church  of  St. 
Spiridion  is  his  body  in  a  silver  case.  The  Cath- 
olics number  about  8, 000.  / 


CHAPTER  XV. 

EUROPE    AGAIN. 

i  BRINDISI ARRIVAL  AT  LORETTO — SANCTUARY  OK  THE  HOLY  HOUSE THE  CITY 

ANOONA RIMINI (ECUMENICAL  COUNCIL  OF  KIMINI  REJECTED  BY  THE    POPE 

THE  BISHOPS  FALL  INTO  ERROR AUTHORITY  OF  THE  POPE  OVER  THE  COUNCIL 

TURIN FAIR    IN     TURIN CROSSING    THE    ALPS     IN    WINTER PASS   OF    MOUNT 

CENIS FRONTIERS     OF     FRANCE LYONS CECUMF.NICAL      COUNCILS — PARIS 

DIEPPE — LONDON.  \ 

N  AFTER  a  few  hours  sail  we  entered  the  harbor 
of  Brindisi  on  Saturday  night.  In  the  morning, 
in  company  with  a  Jew,  a  passenger  from  Calcutta, 
I  went  to  the  Cathedral  to  attend  Mass.  He  was 
very  liberal  in  his  views,  and,  for  want  of  a  Syna- 
gogue, came  with  me  to  hear  Mass.  He  re- 
marked that  neither  he  nor  his  nation  were  ac- 
countable for  the  crime  of  having  crucified  Jesus, 
who,  he  said,  may  have  been  the  promised  Mes- 
siah ;  but  at  all  events  Jesus  was  a  just  and  holy 
man.  We  walked  through  the  city,  and  dined  to- 
gether in  a  hotel.  He  praised  very  much  the  or- 
dinary wine  of  Brindisi,  which  is  very  much  like 
port-wine,  and  said  that  in  England  that  wine 
would  pass  for  genuine  port.  I  wrote  many  let- 
ters. We  entered  a  barber-shop  to  be  shaved. 
The  barber  refused  to  make  any  price,  saying, 
"  Your  lordships,  (Le  Sicjnorie  vostre,)  give  what 

(291) 


292  .  EUROPE    AGAIN. 

you  please.  I  leave  it  to  the  liberality  of  your  lord- 
ships.'7 Of  course  we  gave  him  several  francs.\ 

After  5  P.  M.,  we  started  together  in  a  first-class 
railroad  car,  he  for  France  and  I  for  Loretto.  A 
few  minutes  after  10  P.M.  we  were  in  Barletta, 
where  I  intended  to  stop  to  see  the  famous  large 
box  of  solid  silver  of  superior  workmanship,  but 
I  was  prevented  by  the. company  of  my  friend. 
This  box,  or  chest,  is  used  on  Good  Friday  on  the 
following  occasion :  When  the  chalice  containing 
the  consecrated  Host  is  removed  from  the  reposi- 
tory, at  the  Cathedral,  it  is  put  into  this  box  and 
closed.  Then  a  solemn  procession  (not  that  used 
on  that  day)  is  formed  by  all  confraternities  and 
clergy  ;  then  follows  this  sacred  tabernacle  (the 
silver  box),  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  four  bare- 
footed canons,  surmounted  by  a  canopy,  whose 
poles  are  held  by  the  nobility  of  Barletta.  This 
procession  proceeds  through  the  streets  of  the 
city,  every  one  in  the  posture  of  penance,  devo- 
tion and  expression  of  love  towards  this  mystery, 
enters  several  churches,  and  stops  in  the  princi- 
pal square  of  Barletta.  There,  all  forming  a  cir- 
cle, fall  on  their  knees,  adore  the  Son  of  God  made 
man  and  dead  for  us,  make  an  act  of  contrition  for 
their  sins,  and  a  desire  of  amendment,  and  re- 
turn to  the  church  from  which  the  procession  had 
set  out,  and  the  ceremony  of  Good  Friday  is 
continued.  This  is  an  ancient  practice,  and  it 
is  scrupulously  performed  every  year.\ 

At  8  o'clock  A.  M.,  the  next  day,  the  24th  of 
February,  we  were  in  Loretto,  and  I  took  leave  of 


LORETTO.  293 

ray  friend,  and  we  exchanged  cards,  promis- 
ing to  meet  again  in  Paris,  if  possible.  I  had  sent 
my  baggage  to  Turin,  and  in  a  carriage  I  ascend- 
ed the  high  and  steep  hill  in  search  of  the  House 
of  Loretto,  where  I  landed,  and  as  a  pilgrim  made 
my  devotions  to  that  sanctuary.  I  applied  in  the 
sacristy  for  a  cassock,  and  said  mass  in  that  House, 
where  the  commencement  of  our  salvation  took 
place.  I  gave  communion  to  several  pilgrims. \ 

This  precious  Sanctuary,  the  House  of  the  Bless- 
ed Virgin,  in  which  the  Annunciation  was  made 
by  the  archangel  Gabriel,  "  Hail,  Mary,  full  of 
grace,  the  Lord  is  with  thee,  blessed  art  thou 
among  women,  and  blessed  is  the  fruit  of  thy 
womb,"  and  where  she  gave  her  consent  to  be 
the  mother  of  God,  and  where  the  Word  was  made 
flesh,  was  transported  by  the  angels,  first  from 
Galilee  to  Dalmatiain  1291  ;  from  thence  to  Italy 
near  Recanati  in  1294  ;  and  finally  in  1295  to  the 
spot  where  it  now  remains.  This  house  is  thirty 
feet  long,  fifteen  wide  and  eighteen  high  ;  it  is 
built  of  ebonj'  and  small  bricks,  and  is  covered  by 
a  kind  of  wooden  roof  overlaid,  I  think,  with 
tiles.  There  is  a  window  apparently  opening  on 
the  loft ;  but  it  seems  to  have  communicated  with 
the  roof  and  another  window  through  which  the 
archangel  Gabriel  appeared  to  her.  This  holy 
house  is  now  covered  externally  with  fine  marble, 
and  upon  this  Sanctuary  a  large  and  splendid  church 
has  been  erected.  An  immense  number  of  pil- 
grims continually  visit  this  Sanctuary.  It  was 
once  very  rich  by  the  contributions  and  offerings 


294  EUROPE   AGAIN. 

of  the  pilgrims  ;  but  the  treasury,  in  1798,  was 
pillaged  by  the  French,  as  they  have  always  done 
in  every  part  of  Italy,  where  they  unluckily  hap- 
pened to  gain  a  footing.  They  also  carried  away 
the  image  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  to  Paris — that 
image  which  is  a  masterpiece  of  ihe  pencil  of 
Raphael,  representing  the  Blessed  Virgin  throw- 
ing a  veil  over  the  infant  Jesus  ;  but  they  were 
obliged  to  restore  it  in  1802.\ 

On  leaving  the  church  I  was  much  annoyed  by  a 
lazy  crowd  of  venders  of  beads,  pictures,  etc., 
and  so  much  so,  that  some  policemen  were  obliged 
to  come  to  my  rescue,  rebuking  them,  and  com- 
manding them  to  leave  travelers  alone  in  peace. 
I  dropped  into  a  coffee-house,  for  some  coffee,  and 
then  I  went  to  a  hotel.  I  visited  the  town  ;  but 
it  offers  nothing  worthy  of  seeing,  except  that 
grand  Sanctuary.  Loretto  once  formed  a  part  of 
the  Marca  of  Ancona,  and  belonged  to  the  Roman 
States  ;  for  the  present  it  forms  a  portion  of  the 
Italian  kingdom.  It  is  an  old  town  of  5, 000  inhabit- 
ants, who  live  principally  by  he  resort  of  pilgrims.\ 

After  dinner,  I  left  for  Ancona.  In  the  cars,  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  worthy  Bishop 
of  Sinigaglia,  Mgr.  Joseph  Aggarbati,  who  left 
on  my  mind  a  great  impression  of  his  virtue, 
talents  and  piety.  I  could  not  enjoy  his  com- 
pany for  a  long  time,  but  promised  to  call  on  him,  if 
I  could  stop  on  my  way  to  Rimini.  Ancona  does 
not  present  anything  to  detain  the  traveller.  I 
saw  the  city,  which  has  some  fine  palaces,  and 
streets  ;  the  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  Italy, 


RIMINI.  295 

and  the  triumphal  arch,  erected  by  the  citizens 
to  Trajan,  in  thankful  acknowledgment  for  his 
having  improved  their  harbor.  By  the  evening 
train  I  left  for  Rimini. \ 

This  city  is  the  ancient  Ariminum,  once  a  thriv- 
ing and  large  place,  but  it  now  contains  only  a 
little  over  8,000  inhabitants.  One  of  the  relics 
of  antiquity,  is  a  handsome  white  marble  bridge 
of  five  arches,  commenced  by  Augustus,  and 
finished  by  Tiberius,  over  the  river  Marecchia,  on 
the  point  where  the  Flaminian  and  JEmilian 
roads  met.  Before  one  of  the  gates,  there  is  an 
ancient  triumphal  arch,  erected  in  honor  of 
Augustus.  The  cathedral  is  built  on  the  ruins 
of  the  Temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  and  its  ma- 
terials, like  several  other  churches,  are  marble, 
taken  from  the  ruins  of  the  old  port.x 

But  Rimini  is  notorious  for  the  (Ecumenical 
Council,  whose  acts  were  condemned  by  the  Pope. 
This  council  was  held  in  the  year  363,  by  400 
Bishops  from  Illyricuin,  Italy,  Africa,  Spain,  and 
France  ;  among  whom  there  were  40  Arians.  It 
had  been  convoked  by  Pope  Liberius,  who  was 
represented  by  his  delegates.  The  Arians  suc- 
ceeded in  making,  all  the  Bishops,  except  four  or 
five,  and  the  Pope's  Delegates,  subscribe  to  the 
worst  Arian  formula,  cunningly  presented  by  the 
Arian  Bishops,  Ursacius  and  Yalente  ;  that  is, 
rejecting  the  word  Gonsubstantiale,  and  declaring 
Jesus  Christ,  the  Son  of  Grod,  to  be  equal  to  the 
Father  ;  in  this  manner  making  the  Son  of  God 
only  a  creature,  although  nobler  than  the  others. 


296  EUROPE    AGAIN. 

Then,  as  St.  Jerome  exclaimed,  the  whole  world 
cried  out  with  astonishment,  seeing  itself  to  have 
turned  Arian.  Here  is  another  evidence  that  the 
infallibility  of  the  Church  is  not  in  the  Bishops, 
either  separately  or  collectively  ;  and  their  signa- 
ture to  the  acts  " Definiens  suhscripsi"  does  not 
mean  any  infallibility,  because  they  may  subscribe 
to  a  heresy,  as  was  the  case  in  this  Council ;  in  that 
of  Antioch,  subscribing  to  the  Arian  heresy,  by 
condemning  the  word  homousios  (o^osoiov)  ;  in  that 
of  Milan  by  indirectly  condemning  the  Council  of 
Nice  ;  in  two  Councils  of  Constantinople,  in  which 
they  subscribed  to  the  doctrine  of  the  Iconoclasts, 
and  in  several  others,  which  Councils  were  all  re- 
jected by  the  Pope.  But  when  the  Pope  puts  his 
signature,  then  the  Council  is  infallible,  the  doc- 
trine is  the  doctrine  of  the  Church,  and  is  obliga- 
tory on  all  the  faithful.x 

This  holy  Father,  St.  Jerome,  called  by  the 
Church,  the  Great  Doctor,  in  that  expression 
clearly  professed  that  the  Infallibility  was  not 
with  the  Bishops,  but  only  with  the  Pope,  who  was 
absent  from  Rimini.  Except  the  ordination,  he 
did  not  find  any  other  thing  in  Bishops  which  was 
not  with  Priests.  "  What  is  it,"  says  he,  "  that 
a  Bishop  does,  which  a  Presbyter  cannot  do,  ex- 
cept ordination  ?"  "  Quid  enim,  excepta  ordina- 
tione  facit  Episcopus,  quod  non  facit  Presbyter." 
(Hieron :  Epist :  ad  Evagrium).  Nay,  in  the 
same  Epistle,  and  in  his  comment  on  the  first 
chapter  to  Titus,  this  Father's  conjecture  about  the 
origin  of  Bishops,  is,  that  having  observed  that 


INFALLIBILITY   OF   THE   POPE.  297 

the  name  of  Bishops  and  Presbyters  are  used 
promiscuously  in  the  Scriptures,  and  that  the 
Apostles  call  themselves  Presbyters,  he  concludes 
"that  at  first  there  was  no  distinction  between  their 
offices,  but  that  Apostle,  Bishop,  and  Presbyter, 
were  only  different  names  of  the  same  thing  ;  and 
that  the  Churches  were  then  generally  governed 
by  a  College  of  Presbyters,  equal  in  rank  and  dig- 
nity to  one  another.  Afterwards,  discussions  being 
occasioned  by  this  parity  among  Presbyters, 
to  remedy  this  evil  it  was  decreed  that  one 
of  the  Presbyters  in  every  church  should  be  set 
over  the  rest,  and  peculiarly  called  Bishop."  St. 
John  Chrysostom  finds  little  difference  between 
Bishops  and  Presbyters.  In  the  eleventh  Homily 
on  the  first  Epistle  to  Timothy,  he  says  that  "  the 
reason  why  the  Apostle,  having  delivered  rules 
for  the  behaviour  of  Bishops,  immediately  pro- 
ceeds to  the  Deacons,  without  mentioning  the  in- 
termediate order  of  Presbyters,  was  this  :  that 
there  was  not  a  great  difference  between 
Bishops  and  Presbyters ;  for  even  Presbyters  are 
instructed  to  teach  and  preside  over  the  Church, 
....  there  being  scarcely  any  act  of  the  Episcopal 
office,  which  may  not  be  exercised  by  Presbyters, 
except  ordination."  (S.  Chrysostomus  Principio 

il.  XI.  in  I  Tim  .*  Ata/teyo/^euof  Trepi  HZmaKOTTUv,  nai 

etc.  .  .  .  )  Theodoret  says  the 
same:  u  The  same  persons  were  anciently  called 
Bishops  and  Presbyters,"  (Theodoretus  in  I  Tim  : 

HI,  T«f  avrtiv  enaksv  Trore    Upeapvrepbs   Kai    ETUOVCOTT^ 

etc.)     Other    ancient   Fathers   speak    likewise ; 
IL— 19. 


298  EUROPE   AGAIN. 

so  no  infallibility  was  ever  acknowledged  in 
the  Episcopacy.  The  Pope  being  by  Divine  in- 
stitution the  Yicar  of  Christ,  having  jurisdiction 
over  the  flock  of  Christ,  it  was  necessary  for  him  to 
be  infallible.  Such  necessity  does  not  exist  with 
Episcopacy,  because  Bishops  are  to  be  confirmed 
by  the  Pope.  The  church  is  Papal.  Unum  ovile, 
et  unus  Pastor.\ 

It  was  to  St.  Peter  alone,  as  Pope,  Vicar  of  Our 
Saviour,  and  not  to  the  other  Apostles,  that  was 
given  the  commandment  to  feed  His  sheep  and  His 
lambs,  and  for  whom  alone  Christ  prayed  that  his 
faith  should  never  fail.  He  alone  was  commanded 
to  confirm  his  brethren — the  Pastors  of  the 
Church,  either  Bishops  or  Priests.  The  signature 
of  the  Bishops,  after  that  of  the  Pope,  means  that 
they  believe  the  same  things  with  the  Pope,  and 
are  united  with  him  in  the  same  faith,  and  in  all 
the  regulations,  acts,  etc.,  of  the  Council.  The 
Bishops  are  obliged  to  do  so,  otherwise  they  would 
be  heretics,  but  their  signature,  either  single  or  col- 
lective, does  not  add  any  intrinsic  strength,  it  only 
gives  extrinsic  force  to  the  acts  of  the  Council.  If 
they  sign  the  acts  of  the  Council,  before  the  Pope 
has  appended  his  signature,  as  is  the  case  when  the 
Pope  does  not  preside  personally,  then  the  acts 
of  the  Council  express  the  belief  of  the  Bishops, 
but  not  that  of  the  Church.  Their  belief  may  be 
erroneous,  as  in  the  above  instances,  but  the 
belief  of  the  Church  can  never  be  erroneous. 
But  when  the  Pope  approves  the  acts,  then 
their  belief  is  that  of  the  Church.  If  the 


CARNIVAL    AT   TURIN.  299 

Pope  rejects  them,  as  in  this  case,  the  Pope, 
hence  the  Church,  teaches  the  Bishops  that  they 
are  in  error.  The  Church  is  not  the  assembly  of 
Bishops,  even  of  all  the  Bishops  ;  but  it  is  the 
society  of  the  faithful  under  one  head,  and  the 
visible  head  is  the  Pope  alone.  He  is  the  only 
Pastor,  because,  as  the  Angelical  Doctor  says,  he 
has  the  plenitude  of  Pontifical  power  ;  but  the 
Bishops  are  selected  to  bear  a  portion  of  the 
power  which  belongs  to  him,  like  judges  appoint- 
ed over  each  city.\ 

I  left  for  Turin,  where  I  arrived  on  the  last  day 
of  the  Carnival,  about  noon.  As  I  had  already 
visited  this  beautiful  city,  I  went  to  see  the  great 
fair  held  in  the  street  from  the  Largo  del  Castetto 
to  the  Piazza  of  Victor  Emmanuel.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  attempt  to  describe  it.  Both  sides  of  this 
wide  and  principal  street  were  lined  with  venders 
of  every  description  of  articles,  besides  a  circle 
formed  on  the  Largo  del  Castello,  and  another  in 
the  piazza.  Everything  imaginable  was  to  be 
found  there,  and  in  all  the  shops  of  the  covered 
streets  on  each  side.  No  horses  or  carriages 
were  allowed,  yet  the  crowd  was  such  that  people 
walking  in  line  were  literally  packed.  In  one  of 
the  public  gardens,  there  was  a  jet  of  water  many 
yards  high,  the  top  of  which  opening  like  a  rose 
in  falling  down,  formed  a  beautiful  high  pillar  of 
water.  This  pillar  appeared  to  support  a  colossal 
statue  of  Italy,  which  stood  on  the  top  of  the  jet. 
Nothing  was  visible  to  hold  it,  except  the  water. 
In  the  evening,  the  entire  street  from  end  to  end, 


300  EUROPE   AGAIN. 

lengthways,  was  divided  by  a  row  of  tall,  artifi- 
cial trees,  of  several  species,  whose  leaves,  blos- 
soms and  fruits,  were  formed  by  jets  of  gas,  which 
illuminated  the  streets.  The  beauty  and  grand 
effect  of  this  illumination  are  beyond  all  descrip- 
tion. The  sun  was  represented  by  an  electric 
light  in  the  Largo  del  Castello.  There  was  no  end 
to  bands  of  music.  ,  .  .  Yet  no  confusion,  no 
quarrels,  no  swearing,  no  profane  language,  no 
angry  words,  drunkenness,  etc.,  were  to  be  seen  ; 
every  one  appeared  to  be  content  to  enjoy  them- 
selves, and  to  let  others  do  the  same.\ 

About  11  P.  M.,  we  left  for  Susa,  where  we  arriv- 
ed the  same  night.  Although  it  was  winter,  yet 
there  was  not  snow  enough  to  cross  the  Alps  on 
runners,  but  the  diligence  connecting  the  extremi- 
ties of  the  Italian  and  French  lines  of  railways 
ran  on  wheels.  The  snow  had  disappeared  from 
Piedmont,  and  vegetation  was  rapidly  progress- 
ing. In  the  south  of  Italy  I  observed  trees  in 
full  bloom,  and  fields  dressed  in  luxuriant  green. 
The  temporary  railroad,  built  on  Mont  Cenis,  had 
not  yet  commenced  to  go  into  operation  ;  this 
temporary  railroad  is  to  be  used  till  the  tunnel 
through  Mont  Cenis  is  finished,  which  will  take 
from  three  to  four  years  longer.  At  daylight  we 
passed  the  Italian  side  of  the  famous  Mont  Cenis 
Tunnel,  which  appears  like  a  large  Cyclopean 
arch.x 

As  we  approached  the  summit  of  the  Alps,  the 
snow  was  more  abundant,  and  at  a  certain  point 
we  abandoned  the  wheels,  and  continued  our 


THE   ALPS.  301 

journey  on  runners.  Like  the  other  passes  of 
the  Alps,  there  are  several  houses  of  refuge  to 
keep  the  road  clear  of  snow,  and  give  assistance 
to  travelers  ;  and  near  the  top  there  is  a  Hos- 
pice of  the  monks  of  St.  Bernard.  The  winter 
scenery  from  the  top  of  the  Alps  is  grand  ;  fields 
of  snow,  masses  of  ice,  piled  one  upon  the  other. 
Terrible  avalanches,  shooting  from  the  sides  of 
mountains,  had  broken  through  the  cast-iron  roofs 
of  the  railroad.  Angry  torrents  were  forcing 
their  passage  through  masses  of  rocks  and  ice  ; 
others  leaping  from  wild  glaciers,  went  roaring, 
foaming,  and  turning  into  ice.  I  observed  many 
places  on  the  new  railroad  covered  by  avalanches  ; 
several  cast-iron  galleries  had  been  smashed  by 
them,  while  others  had  entirely  disappeared. 
The  scenery  was  extremely  savage  and  wild,  but 
it  was  grand,  and  completely  exhibited  the  ma- 
jesty and  grandeur  of  the  summit  of  the  Alps  in 
the  middle  of  winter.  Yet  the  cold  was  not  very 
intense  ;  it  was  not  much,  compared  with  that  which 
I  have  suffered  in  America.  The  descent  on  the 
other  side  was  frightful  and  very  alarming.  The 
postillion  had  taken  away  four  horses,  and  the 
heavy  diligence  pulled,  or  rather  checked  by  two 
horses,  went  rushing  down  the  Alps  with  fearful 
rapidity.  This  was  not  the  worst ;  the  turning 
of  the  many  sharp  angles  of  the  zigzag  road,  going 
down  from  a  very  high  and  steep  mountain,  was 
exceedingly  dangerous.  It  is  dreadful  to  look  be- 
low into  the  deep  valley,  in  descending  this  nearly 
perpendicular  mountain.  If  a  horse  should  put  a 


302  EUROPE    AGAIN. 

foot  wrong,  and  step  beyond  the  proper  space  in 
turning  the  angles,  horses,  stage,  and  passengers 
would  dash  down  a  frightful  precipice  and  be  re- 
duced to  atoms.  It  is  true  that  these  dangerous 
places  are  all  protected  by  railings,  and  the 
horses  are  so  experienced  that  they  would  not 
put  one  foot  wrong,  yet  this  case  has  sometimes 
happened.x 

At  the  frontier,  our  baggage  was  examined 
and  I  was  surprised  on  hearing  the  officers  calling 
for  the  pasports,  and  they  were  so  strict  in  their 
demands,  that  several  passengers  had  been  de- 
tained there,  till  they  had  received  their  passports 
from  Florence.  I  say  that  I  was  surprised,  be- 
cause in  Europe,  excepting  in  the  Roman  States, 
there  is  no  passport  demanded  ;  but  the  officers 
remarked,  that  it  was  a  new  regulation  from  the 
French  Government  requiring  a  passport  from 
every  person,  except  Belgians,  Swiss  and  Ger- 
mans. This  new  regulation  had  not  been  pro- 
mulgated by  the  French  representative  in  foreign 
countries,  hence  it  is  easy  to  imagine  the  annoy- 
ance, expense,  delay,  and  loss  to  business  men, 
at  the  frontiers.  I  spoke  to  some  gentlemen  going 
on  business  to  London,  who  had  been  delayed  for  a 
week  at  the  frontiers  ;  and  so  with  others  going 
to  Paris.  Napoleon  received  many  a  very  equi- 
vocal compliment  for  this  order,  so  remarkably 
Napoleonic.  I  had  my  American  passport,  which 
was  examined,  and  I  passed.  At  St.  Michael  we 
took  the  cars,  and  after  a  short  time  arrived  in 
Lyons  A 


LYONS.  303 

This  city,  the  centre  of  manufactures  in  France, 
especially  in  silk,  is  considered  the  second  in  the 
Empire  in  point  of  size  and  population,  which  is 
reckoned  to  be  about  200,000.  It  is  situated  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Rhone  and  Saone.  On  the 
top  of  the  heights  stands  the  Church  of  Notre 
Dame  de  Fourviere,  whose  dome  supports  a  colos- 
sal copper  statue  of  the  Blessed  Yirgin  Mary. 
This  church  is  esteemed  as  a  sanctuary,  and  con- 
tains the  offerings  of  many  persons,  presented  dur- 
ing the  time  of  the  cholera.  There  is  a  fine  Museam 
and  Observatory.  The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  the  place 
where  the  Revolutionary  Tribunal  sat  after  the 
siege  of  Lyons  ;  and  the  barbarous  cruelty  of  Collot 
d'  Herbois,  who  slaughtered  thousands  of  innocent 
people  has  never  been,  and  will  never  be,  forgotten./ 

Lyons  is  the  place  where  two  (Ecumenical  Coun- 
cils were  celebrated.  The  object  was  about  the 
regulation  of  discipline  •  to  free  the  Holy  Land 
from  the  oppression  and  persecution  of  the  Sara- 
cens ;  the  union  of  the  Greeks  ;  and  in  the 
Second  Council  it  was  decided  also  that  the  Holy 
Ghost  proceeded  from  the  Father  and  the  Son. 
It  was  here  that  in  the  Solemn  High  Mass,  cele- 
brated by  Pope  Gregory  X.  the  Credo  was  sung  in 
Greek,  with  the  particle  Filioque  repeated  three 
thnesA 

I  continued  my  journey  to  Paris,  where  I  stop- 
ped at  the  same  hotel  at  which  I  had  put  up  last 
year.  I  wrote  to  America  and  to  my  family  in 
Italy.  I  made  several  purchases  of  articles  that 
I  would  need  in  America.  On  Sunday,  I  cele- 


304  EUROPE   AGAIN. 

brated  Mass  in  the  Chapel  des  Missions  Etrangers, 
and  I  feel  thankful  to  the  kindness  of  the  direct- 
ors of  that  church,  who,  having  regard  for  me  as 
a  stranger,  allowed  me  to  celebrate  during  High 
Mass.  The  church  was  so  crowded,  that  it  was 
not  possible  to  pass,  without  the  assistance  of  the 
Sexton.  I  went  to  the  Agent  of  the  Montreal  Ocean 
Steamship  Company,  and  learned  that  the  steamer 
Hibernian  was  to  leave  Liverpool  for  Portland, 
U.  S.  A.,  on  the  following  week,  Thursday,  March 
5th,  the  same  steamer  in  which  I  had  come  from 
America.  I  liked  that  boat  and  the  officers,  so  I 
took  my  passage  in  it,  and  the  best  state  room, 
with  the  privilege  of  taking  another  steamer,  if 
from  some  cause  I  should  miss  sailing  in  the  Hi- 
bernian.N 

I  found  that  the  Dieppe  and  New  Haven  line 
was  the  onty  one  that  could  issue  through  tickets 
to  Liverpool,  so  I  procured  one  from  the  agent  of 
that  line.  I  intended  to  start  from  Paris,  on  the 
evening  of  Monday,  March  2d,  but  the  trouble 
was  with  my  baggage,  which  was  not  yet  ready, 
on  account  of  my  purchases,  some  of  which  were 
subject  to  duty  ;  but  those  who  had  charge  of  my 
baggage,  promised  to  have  it  ready  in  time.  Yet, 
it  could  not  arrive  at  Liverpool  in  time  for  the 
steamer,  even  if  I  sent  it  by  express,  as  we  say 
in  America.  The  agent  was  very  kind,  and  offer- 
ed to  send  my  luggage  as  baggage,  so  that  it 
would  accompany  with  me,  by  delivering  it  at  his 
office  at  a  stated  hour,  and  paying  extra.  All  my 
luggage  was  ready  at  the  proper  hour.  A  gentle- 


LEAVING   FOR    AMERICA.  305 

man,  a  merchant,  went  with  me  to  the  American 
Consul,  to  declare  what  articles  were  contained 
in  a  large  box,  and  their  value  ;  and  as  it  was 
late,  and  we  were  afraid  that  we  should  find  the 
Consular  Office  closed,  we  arrived  there  in  a  high 
state  of  perspiration,  having  been  obliged  to  walk 
very  fast.  The  clerk  of  the  consulate  told  the 
gentleman  in  French  that  the  American  Consul 
was  not  in,  which  was  not  true  ;  perhaps  he  meant 
he  was  not  in  for  business,  as  the  business  hours 
had  expired  ;  and  he  added  that  nothing  could  be 
done  on  that  day.  I  heard  the  voice  of  another 
person  in  an  adjoining  room,  and  asked  whether 
that  voice  was  the  Consul's.  He  said,  Yes.  I 
went  in  and  spoke  to  him  in  French  on  the  sub- 
ject, and  he  replied  that  it  being  late,  nothing 
could  be  done  ;  but  when  I  spoke  to  him  in  En- 
glish stating  that  I  was  obliged  to  leave  Paris  for 
America  that  evening,  he  condescended  to  our  re- 
quest, and  the  papers,  which  cost  the  merchant 
nine  francs,  were  made  out.  One  paper  was 
given  to  me,  another  sent  to  Portland,  and  another 
was  kept  on  file  in  the  consulate.  But  all  this 
trouble  seemed  to  have  been  useless,  for  when  I 
arrived  in  Portland  I  learned  from  the  customs 
officer  that,  notwithstanding  the  invoice  which 
they  had  received,  the  box  was  to  be  opened, 
which  was  done  during  my  absence,  and  the  con- 
tents were  to  be  valued  in  Portland.  So  much  for 
a  Republican  government.\ 

All  my  luggage  was  at  the  agent's  office  at  the 
appointed  time.     I  paid  the  extra  charge  and  re- 


306  EUROPE   AGAIN. 

ceived  a  note,  the  receipt  of  the  company  for  the 
security  of  my  baggage.  I  was  advised  to  at- 
tend to  it  in  New  Haven,  at  the  English  custom 
house,  and  in  London.  It  was  my  business  to 
transport  it  from  one  station  to  another  only  in 
London  ;  all  the  rest  was  to  be  done  and  attended 
to  by  the  Company.\ 

I  returned  to  the  hotel,  settled  my  bill,  and 
taking  the  baggage  that  I  had  there  rode  to  the 
station.  There  I  presented  my  ticket  and  had  my 
other  baggage  checked  for  London.  I  was  not 
aware  that  it  was  marked  for  a  station  different 
from  that  marked  by  the  agent  for  my  other  lug- 
gage, an  error  which  I  discovered  in  New  Haven. 
There  was  nothing  remarkable  in  the  journey  till 
I  reached  London,  except  that  I  was  obliged  to 
pay  again  in  the  steamer  from  Dieppe  to  New 
Haven,  notwithstanding  my  through  ticket ;  but, 
as  I  remarked  before,  I  was  advised  to  complain 
to  the  agent  in  New  Haven,  and  my  money  was 
returned  with  the  thanks  and  apology  of  the 
Coinpany.x 

The  custom  officers,  with  that  politeness  for 
which  the  English  nation  is  so  distinguished,  re- 
fused to  open  any  of  my  boxes  marked  for 
America,  and  my  other  trunks  were  merely 
opened,  but  nothing  was  disturbed.  They  dis- 
covered the  error  of  my  baggage  being  directed 
to  two  different  stations  in  London,  and  they  very 
kindly  offered  to  correct  it  for  me  upon  my  de- 
livering to  them  the  paper  which  I  held  for  bag- 
gage, the  direction  of  which  was  'to  be  changed. 


LONDON.  t    307 

It  was  done  so.  In  London  the  station  master 
was  looking  for  that  baggage  whose  direction  I 
had  changed ;  it  was  found  all  right,  and  taking  all 
my  articles  I  drove  to  the  station  for  Liverpool. 
I  went  to  an  eating-house  near  by  and  made  a  good 
breakfast,  of  which  I  stood  very  much  in  need,/ 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

ENGLAND    AND  THE   OCEAN. 

OXFORD — LIVERPOOL — BOLTON — EMBARKATION — LOUGH  FOYLE — MO- 
VILLE— THE  OCEAN— A  STORM— COASTS  OF  NOVA  SCOTIA— ACADIA 
—PORTLAND— CONCLUSION. 

fl  LEFT  London  for  Oxford  by  the  next  train. 
This  is  the  only  place  that  I  intended  to  visit  on 
my  way  to  Liverpool.  Oxford  is  a  beautiful  city 
of  36, 000  inhabitants,  finely  located  at  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Cherwell,  Thames  and  Isis.  This  city 
is  renowned  for  its  University,  which  is  one  of  the 
best  in  the  world,  and  superior  even  to  the  famous 
University  of  Cambridge.  This  institution  is  very 
ancient,  and  its  origin  is  not  known  ;  but  it  is  be- 
lieved to  have  been  founded  by  Alfred  the  Great. 
It  consists  of  nineteen  colleges  and  five  halls,  each 
of  which  constitutes  an  establishment  by  itself, 
having  its  own  regulations,  professors,  students 
and  revenue ;  yet  they  are  united  and  governed 
by  one  University.  They  are  principally  located 
on  the  main  street,  and  their  magnitude  and  splen- 
did architecture,  with  other  magnificent  buildings 
and  ornamental  trees,  render  this  street  one  of  the 
best  in  the  world.  The  number  and 'variety  of 

(308) 


LIVERPOOL.  309 

spires,  towers,  domes  and  other  public  edifices, 
make  a  grand  and  imposing  appearance.\ 

I  did  not  stop  long,  but  left  for  Liverpool  di- 
rectly, enjoying  the  view  of  the  fine  manufacturing 
cities  and  towns  on  the  road  to  Liverpool,  where 
I  arrived  at  nine  P.M.  the  same  evening.  At  the 
station  I  found  the  agent  of  the  steamer,  or  some- 
body connected  with  it,  inquiring  after  me.  He 
had  been  telegraphed  from  Paris  by  the  agent  in 
that  city,  and  had  very  kindly  come  to  the  station 
to  meet  me.  He  advised  me  not  to  take  my  lug- 
gage, but  to  leave  it  at  the  station  till  Thursday, 
the  day  of  the  sailing  of  the  Hibernian.  I  express- 
ed my  desire  on  the  next  day,  which  was 
Wednesday,  of  going  to  Bolton,  to  see  some  of  my 
friends  before  leaving  Europe.  He  encouraged 
me  to  do  so,  because  Liverpool  at  that  time  was 
full  of  strangers  and  swarming  with  thieves.  It 
was  the  Liverpool  horse-races ;  hence  it  was 
not  safe  to  take  my  luggage  at  that  hour  of  the 
night  and  look  after  a  hotel.  I  hired  a  carriage, 
and  after  going  through  a  dozen  hotels  I  succeeded 
in  finding  a  miserable  room  in  a  very  ordinary 
tavern.  \ 

Next  morning,  March  4th,  I  went  to  Bolton  to 
see  my  friend,  Rev.  Canon  Carter,  whom  I  was 
pleased  to  find  in  good  health,  as  also  Mrs.  Smith, 
and  other  of  my  acquaintances.  After  dinner, 
accompanied  by  the  same  friends,  I  went  to  the 
station  and  took  my  final  departing  adieus  from 
them.  I  returned  to  Liverpool  where  I  found  a 
decent  room  in  a  better  hotel.  After  supper  I 


310  ENGLAND    AND    THE    OCEAN. 

walked  through  the  city,  and  not  far  from  St. 
George's  Hall  was  robbed  of  my  silver  watch  ;  the 
only  thing  that  I  lost  during  my  travels.  / 

Next  morning,  Thursday,  March  5th,  it  was 
raining  and  stormy.  I  went  to  a  church,  not 
far  from  the  Adelphi  Hotel,  to  prepare  my- 
self for  crossing  the  ocean.  I  then  provided 
myself  with  a  Liverpool  watch  and  went  to  the 
steamer  office.  The  agent  requested  me  to  change 
the  number  of  my  state  room,  because  that  which 
had  been  assigned  to  me  by  the  agent  in  Paris, 
under  the  impression  that  it  was  the  best,  was 
not  the  best,  to  which  I  was  entitled  from  having 
paid  the  highest  price,  and  according  to  the  tele- 
graphic dispatch  sent  from  Paris.  On  the  map  of 
the  Hibernian  he  showed  me  which  was  the  best 
state  room.  Of  course  I  changed  it,  and  we  agreed 
that  I  should  be  alone  in  my  state-room.  I  made 
a  few  more  purchases  in  Liverpool ;  amongst  the 
rest  some  wines  for  the  passage,  and  at  two  P.M. 
took  all  my  baggage  to  the  wharf,  where  I  admired 
the  excellent  order  kept  by  the  police.  An  officer 
was  stationed  at  the  head  of  the  stairs  leading 
down  to  the  grand  and  splendid  cast-iron  floating 
wharf.  I  was  requested  to  show  what  was  my 
destination  ;  then  he  called  one  of  the  appointed 
carriers,  who  in  turn  convey  the  baggage,  and 
ordered  him  to  take  it  down  to  the  wharf  at  the 
place  of  embarkation.  He  took  a  printed  paper 
and  counted  the  number  of  pieces  before  me,  as 
they  were  taken  down  from  the  carriage,  and 
having  marked  them  on  the  paper  handed  it  to  me 


LOUGH   FOYLE.  311 

mentioning  what  I  was  to  pay  to  them.  At  three 
P.M.  the  steam  tender  arrived,  which  took  all  our 
luggage,  and  the  first-class  passengers,  and  we 
went  on  board  the  Hibernian.  Captain  Brown,  the 
excellent  commander  of  the  steamer,  recognized 
me  and  welcomed  me  on  board  ;  and  so  also  did 
the  good-natured  and  very  fat  Scotch  steward  ; 
but  the  waiters  were  not  the  same.  My  state- 
room was  very  good  and  I  had  it  all  to  myself.\ 

The  weather  was  very  stormy,  the  wind  ahead, 
promising  a  continuation  of  tempests  and  contrary 
winds.  I  asked  the  captain  if  he  intended  to  sail 
in  a  storm  ;  he  said,  "  Yes !  there  is  no  danger  to 
be  apprehended.  In  March  we  expect  nothing 
but  storms,  but  that  is  nothing  ;  we  have  a  good 
boat,  only  we  may  take  more  days  on  the  passage." 
At  five  P.M.  we  sailed,  in  the  midst  of  a  severe 
storm,  anxiously  expecting  to  reach  the  American 
shore.  Early  next  morning  we  passed  close  to 
Kachlin  Island,  where,  on  account  of  the  continued 
fogs,  the  inhabitants  seldom  see  the  sun.  We 
rounded  the  Giant's  Causeway  and  entered  into 
Lough  Foyle,  opposite  Moville,  on  Friday,  March 
6th.  We  stopped  there  till  late  in  the  afternoon. 
I  observed  that  the  fields  in  Ireland  were  green, 
and  well  cultivated.  How  different  from  those 
of  North  America,  where  I  expected  to  find  snow 
several  feet  deep !  The  officer  who  had  charge  of 
the  sails,  foreseeing  that  we  were  to  encounter  a 
continuation  of  contrary  winds  and  storms,  took 
in  nearly  all  the  sails,  the  main  yards,  the  top 
masts  and '  top  yards  5  lowered  the  masts,  and 


312  ENGLAND    AND   THE    OCEAN. 

prepared  the  steamer  to  brave  the  storms.  After 
receiving  the  mails  and  passengers  from  London- 
derry in  that  same  old  and  primitive  concern, 
denominated  a  tender,  and  steamer,  we  left  for 
America.  The  storm  increased  and  I  entered 
my  state-room,  where  I  remained  for  several 
days,  with  a  severe  spell  of  seasickness  ;  the 
most  of  the  passengers  were  in  the  same  condition. 
I  had  the  poor  consolation  to  observe  that  I  was 
not  the  worst  amongst  them.\ 

The  storm  continued  for  eleven  days  and 
gradually  increased  with  the  wind  always  from 
the  west.  We  passed  only  one  steamer  of  the 
same  line,  coming  from  America.  After  three  or 
four  days,  I  tried  to  drag  myself  on  deck,  but  it 
was  not  safe  ;  the  billows  dashing  against  the  boat 
washed  on  deck  fearfully,  and  it  was  found  neces- 
sary to  place  ropes  across  the  steamer  to  prevent 
the  officers  from  being  carried  overboard.  In 
eleven  days  we  had  not  made  more  than  1400 
miles,  and  the  storm  was  growing  still  worse.x 

The  captain,  fearing  we  might  run  short  of 
coal,  had  ordered  the  fires  to  be  slacked,  as  it 
was  useless  to  waste  coal  without  making  much 
progress.  All  the  passengers  were  more  or  less 
sick,  but  they  endeavored  to  help  themselves, 
except  an  American,  who  was  so  much  discouraged 
that  the  captain  went  several  times  to  rouse  him 
from  his  berth.  He  had  never  left  his  state-room. 

Finally  several  passengers  went  to  arouse  and 
encourage  him,  and  they  succeeded  in  making  him 
get  upon  deck.  \ 


A  8TORM.  313 

The  12th  of  the  month  was  the  worst.     We 
made  only  ninety-one  miles  on  that  day.     The 
sky  was  thick  and  dark,  billows  broke  dreadfully 
against  the  boat,  which  several  times  was  entirely 
covered  by  the  waves,   and   the  water  washed 
into  the  cabin  and  state-rooms.     I  observed  the 
storm  from  my  bed  ;  the  waves  were  washing  and 
burying  the  windows  ;  and  I  counted  the  time  of 
their   submersion   and   emersion.      Once   I  was 
alarmed  ;  the  steamer  was  all  under  water  ;  I  did 
not  see  the  huge  billows  clearing  the  windows  ;  I 
observed  a  continuation  of  the  rushing  of  water 
as  if  we  were  going  down  to  the  bottom.     The 
room  was  darkened.     I  could  no  longer  hear  the 
noise  made  by  the  engine.   I  said  to  myself,  "  We 
have  foundered !  "    But  thanks  to  God  and  to  the 
Blessed  Virgin,  I  saw  once  more  the  water  leav- 
ing the  windows  ;  the  steamer  had  emerged  again 
from  the  deep.\ 

The  next  day  the  weather  was  still  worse.  I  ob- 
served the  steward  shaking  his  head,  and  saying, 
u  It  is  bad  weather !  "  I  ventured  to  go  on  deck, 
to  see  the  wild  scenery  of  the  madly  infuriated 
ocean,  which  was  beyond  description.  Gigantic 
waves  like  huge  mountains  were  rolling  with 
grandeur  and  terror,  and  their  foaming  crests,  at  a 
distance,  reminded  me  of  the  sublimity  of  the 
snow-capped  Alps,  which  I  had  witnessed  just  last 
month  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Cenis.  The 
deep,  solemn  roaring  was  deafened  only  by  the 
piercing  shrill  whistle  of  the  wind,  furiously  blow- 
ing against  the  cordage  and  masts  of  the  steamer. 
VOL.  ii. — 20 


314   ,  ENGLAND    AND   THE   OCEAN. 

These  frowning  billows,  after  having  dashed  fear- 
fully against  the  boat,  and  shaken  it  in  every 
compartment,  opened  a  deep  and  frightful  valley, 
gaping  at  us,  and  ready  to  swallow  our  boat, 
which,  after  emerging  from  this  abyss  of  water, 
was  again  lifted  upon  the  crest  of  the  next  enor- 
mous rolling  billow,  and  it  made  us  look  up  at 
an  ominous  sky,  overcast  with  angry  and  dark 
clouds  hanging  over  our  heads,  throwing  spits  of 
rain  and  snow,  and  turning  the  day  into  night. 
Majestic  as  was  this  scenery,  I  would  not  like  to 
see  it  again.  The  sailors  said  they  had  seen  no 
worse  weather  but  once  only,  and  that  was  when 
the  ship  they  were  on  was  sinking.  But  thanks 
to  God  and  to  St.  Patrick,  whose  statue  was  on  the 
head  of  the  Hibernian,  on  the  17th  day,  St.  Pat- 
rick's Day !  the  wind  changed,  and  we  made  300 
miles  on  that  day.  We  had  fine  weather  for 
the  rest  of  the  voyage,  and  were  soon  on  the 
Grand  Bank,  teeming  with  ducks.  On  the  19th 
we  discovered  land  on  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia, 
and  went  close  by  Sable  Island,  which  is  an 
immense  bank  of  sand  (sable  in  French).  We 
passed  in  sight  of  the  sandy  south-west  coast  of 
Nova  Scotia.  \ 

This  peninsula  was  discovered  by  John  Cabot 
in  1497,  and  is  believed  to  have  been  the  first 
land  discovered  on  the  Continent  of  North  Ameri- 
ca. The  French  who  first  settled  it  named  it 
Acadia,  but  the  English  changed  that  name  to 
Nova  Scotia,  when  in  1621  it  was  granted  to 
Sir  W.  Alexander.  The  name  of  Acadia  has 


ACADIA.  315 

puzzled,  and  does  yet  puzzle  antiquarians.  It  is 
an  Indian  word  of  the  Micmac  tribes,  meaning 
our  dwelling  s,  or  where  we  live.\ 

It  was  not  the  name  which  the  Indians  called 
it,  but  it  was  called  so  by  the  French,  who  hear- 
ing the  Indians  saying  Akadie  (we  live  there, 
there  are  our  dwellings),  very  naturally  took 
that  expression  for  the  name  of  the  country.  On 
the  afternoon  of  Saturday,  the  20th  of  the  month, 
we  entered  the  harbor  of  Portland. 

I  feel  particularly  thankful  to  Divine  Provi- 
dence for  the  happy  accomplishment  of  my  long 
journey  and  pilgrimage.  Nothing  of  any  conse- 
quence happened  to  mar  it,  and  my  object  was 
satisfactorily  accomplished,  with  the  exception  of 
the  appropriation  for  the  Indian  Missions  from  the 
Propagation  of  the  Faith  in  France,  because  there 
was  a  rule  that  nothing  could  be  given  to  any 
person  except  the  Bishops.\ 

A  journey  to  the  East  is  not  exempt  from 
danger,  especially  to  a  person  travelling  alone. 
Besides  his  purse  a  traveller  must  have  other 
stores.  Good  temper  and  a  disposition  to  fall 
into  the  manners  of  the  place  are  most  necessary. 
A  good  amount  of  forbearance  and  respect  for 
the  customs  of  the  country  are  indispensable  ;  and 
a  remembrance  that  there  must  be  ups  and  downs 
will  assist  the  traveller  to  avoid  quarrels  and  un- 
pleasant moments.  Prudence  and  gentlemanly 
manners  give  more  comfort  and  pleasure,  than  to 
have  one's  own  way,  which  costs  much  and  is 
worth  little.  A  traveller  of  such  disposition  will 


316  HOME. 

never  be  alone,  and  his  company  is  rendered  de- 
sirable in  the  best  society. 


END   OF   VOL   II. 


AD   MAJOREM   DEI    GLORIAM,    DEIPAREQUE   VIRGINI 
MARIE   IMMACULATE. 


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